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View Full Version : Proboat Blackjack 29" V3 - new hull, 2000kv motor, 120A ESC & EC5 plugs.



fusion_m8
11-24-2014, 10:55 AM
Has anyone gotten their hands on one yet??? I would love to know what is different about the hull design compared to previous model. Apparently the hull doesn't porpoise as much as before, from what I observed in the HorizonHobby YouTube video below.

In ProBoat's website picture gallery (http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=PRB08011#media) there is a sneak peek of the internal layout of the new hull design, looks like they have put in some proper battery holders on top of trays and improved the space by lowering the trays closer to the bottom of the hull so as to fit larger/taller battery packs. The battery holders can slide fore and aft on the trays to adjust the COG. However the amount of COG adjustment for the battery packs does look limited compared to before.

The new 120A ESC looks beefier with better water cooling than the previous 80A version. Though the new 120A ESC does look a little plain with no blue anodized heatsink.

The motor mount looks much sturdier.

The radio antenna has changed location and is shorter and stubbier.

I am excited to find out more about the ride pads on the new hull. Many racers believe that the ride pads on the previous hull must be blueprinted and sharpened to eliminate porpoising. I wonder if PB has done some kind of improvement to the ride pads for them to handle the extra speed of the 2000kv motor on 6s? The previous hull was already maxed out with the 1800kv/6S setup. Looking at the picture supplied on ProBoat's website, the bottom of the hull design looks slightly different. The ride pads appear flatter than before and the flexshaft tube appears to be housed inside and aerodynamic mini keel for improved airflow, perhaps that helps reduce porpoising?

Transmitter is the same Spektrum DX2E, however the receiver has been upgraded(?) from a MR200 to a SR410.

I wonder if the flexshaft has been beefed up as well? Many BJ29 owners did blowup the stock flexshaft with the 1800kv/6S setup.

According to the ProBoat website's product description, the propeller size is now 63mm(WT...??!!)x1.6p. That's gotta be a typo!!! The factory metal prop used to be a 40mmx1.6p=63mm of pitch.

http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=PRB08011




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D26K7kezq7k

***Moderators: If I am not supposed to hotlink external retail websites, I apologize, please remove it accordingly.***

fusion_m8
11-27-2014, 07:17 PM
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Pedro Ramos
12-01-2014, 11:30 PM
i just got mine today and no tupperware cover for the electronics, super short battery connectors from the esc. no programing card or info on how to program the esc.

i will water test it tomorrow.

fusion_m8
12-02-2014, 12:58 AM
Excellent! Please post some pictures and videos on it on 4s and/or 6s.

I tried to get hold of one from ProBoat's website(the only place with shipping to Australia atm) and the shipping was $238!!! Think I have to wait until the ebay sellers get hold of their stock, the shipping from ebay sellers is a lot more reasonable at around $80.

Pedro Ramos
12-07-2014, 07:26 AM
the boat is a beast, super stable but still no info on how to at least disable reverse, other than that on 6s is pretty fast and reasonable stable. on 4s is more tamed for the novice or young driver.

fusion_m8
12-11-2014, 05:09 AM
I wonder why they put reverse mode ESC on what is obviously an intermediate-advance level RTR boat. Its like putting cupholders in a Nascar!

tlandauer
12-11-2014, 05:21 AM
I wonder why they put reverse mode ESC on what is obviously an intermediate-advance level RTR boat. Its like putting cupholders in a Nascar!

That may be true, but it is still aimed at as many customers as possible, so it is a marketing decision. You will be surprised at how many walk-in customers ask if there is a reverse feature. I was at a hobby shop and that was the conversation I over heard.

Pedro Ramos
01-13-2015, 12:07 AM
had this boat over a month now and the boat is a rocket for a rtr. nothing bad to report super stable on 4s for the kids and scary fast on 6s for the father! lol
great finish fiberglass hull, great hardware, only thing i did is dual water pick up, 5/32 tubing and aero marine large water outlets, motor and esc cold to the touch even on 6s!

RCBoaterGuy
01-13-2015, 03:10 AM
That ESC looks virtually identical to the new Seaking version 3's... http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=312 - The Dynamite has a different water block & 2 caps instead of 1, otherwise same thing.

Suggestion: try using a HobbyWing program box to program the ESC :wink:

You'll need a servo extension cord like this one... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEDAS&P=7 - to go from the ESC to the port on the back of the PB. White / orange wire goes to the horseshoe shaped symbol on the PB and to the "S" pin on the ESC.

The list of the programmable settings is in the HobbyWing manuals can be found here... http://www.falconsekido.com/pages/download

I set the LiPo cell count to the actual number of cells being used - auto detect can be sketchy sometimes.

Use the default LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff) value of 3.2V/C -- if your paranoid about over discharging your packs set it to 3.4V/C.

Set timing to: 7.5-degree's (or less) -- the default timing value of 15-degree's is wayyyy too high!!

Hope that helps, Good luck...



i just got mine today and no tupperware cover for the electronics, super short battery connectors from the esc. no programing card or info on how to program the esc.

i will water test it tomorrow.

RCBoaterGuy
01-23-2015, 04:41 PM
Checked PB's website - parts list, looks like the version 3 boats did away with the tupperware lid.

There's no mention of it in the manual either - maybe shoot Darin Jordan a PM for a clarification.

Dam, am I glad I got a MG29 while I could.



i just got mine today and no tupperware cover for the electronics, super short battery connectors from the esc. no programing card or info on how to program the esc.

i will water test it tomorrow.

Mr_3_0_5
01-24-2015, 10:26 AM
Nope there's no Tupperware lid

Buddyroe
01-24-2015, 11:59 AM
http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo37/buddyroe-88/B6A58C4F-314E-4233-88AB-4DF2B6D3EF5E.jpg (http://s359.photobucket.com/user/buddyroe-88/media/B6A58C4F-314E-4233-88AB-4DF2B6D3EF5E.jpg.html)

ray schrauwen
01-24-2015, 02:07 PM
Thanks for the pic. Finally I can see the inside.

I did mention once that the esc wa nearly a dead ringer for a HW120. The PB has a nicer cooling block it seems.

Buddyroe
01-24-2015, 05:04 PM
http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo37/buddyroe-88/AEDD4F86-2D7E-4FDB-9A02-A1248686D698.jpg (http://s359.photobucket.com/user/buddyroe-88/media/AEDD4F86-2D7E-4FDB-9A02-A1248686D698.jpg.html)

BHChieftain
01-25-2015, 06:26 PM
I really think the tupperware lid wasn't all that effective-- you need to tape the canopy down anyway, and that seals up things just fine.

Chief

Mr_3_0_5
01-25-2015, 08:07 PM
Anyone have a programming box and can tell me what the factory setting of the esc are ?
It would be greatly appreciated

RCBoaterGuy
01-25-2015, 08:30 PM
Both myself & Ray Schrauwen agree that ESC seen in post #14 is dead ringer for the version-3 Seakings. And I completely agree with Ray that Dynamite copy has much nicer water block.

Because the Dynamite ESC is dead ringer for the Seaking, in post #9 I suggested trying the HobbyWing program box (with instructions) - has anybody tried that?? If no, why not??

Repeatedly asking the same question is not going to produce an answer. Only trial & error will produce an answer. It's either going to work or it's not going to work, what it will not do is fry the ESC.

If you put an Octura x642 prop on your boat & it does not produce the desired results, then you try a different prop - right?? Same exact concept here.




Anyone have a programming box and can tell me what the factory setting of the esc are ?
It would be greatly appreciated

ray schrauwen
01-25-2015, 08:33 PM
Whoever makes the ESC did their homework or got some good advice. I'm tempted to sell some stuff and maybe get one of these. If I find some work, that would do it too.

Pedro Ramos
01-25-2015, 09:32 PM
well, I'm happy to informed that the hobbywing program card works like a dream, just got rid of reverse and make sure set timing on 7.5 like rcboaterguy suggested.

Thank u all for the research, still no complaints for this boat, I doest not mind the use of the tape anymore, I like electronics so much that i run the seaking 120a and the bl 29 v3 motor on my revolt 30 and it runs solid, I'm not a racer more like an aqua basher LOL

Also got a new old stock sv27r and change the esc for the one that came with the revolt 30 and it has plenty of power, no need for 6s in my opinion

once again thank you all for the research!!!

ray schrauwen
01-25-2015, 10:32 PM
Cool Pedro. It's nicer than a HW imo since it has the extra cap on board. Almost looks like a 180 :confused2::spy:

RCBoaterGuy
01-26-2015, 03:08 AM
RIGHT FRIGGEN ON DUDE!! - That's awesome that it worked, I figured it would.

It used to be that companies made there own electronics, but it's gotten to the point where it's easier for them to buy the HW's because they're solid performer's in the mid-range price wise.

AQ is the only with there own ESC's (that I know of), but for how much longer?? I don't like them because of the complete lack of programability.

Try using the 60-amp ESC from Revolt, MC, UL-1 et all on 3S. That stutter bump crap will kick in within a few minutes.

Check out this program box... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCACX&P=7 - looks just like my HW with a different face plate.

Here's another example... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7187__Turnigy_Speed_Controller_Programming_Card. html - click on the files tab & look at face plate #2 - it's for boats.



well, I'm happy to informed that the hobbywing program card works like a dream, just got rid of reverse and make sure set timing on 7.5 like rcboaterguy suggested.

Thank u all for the research, still no complaints for this boat, I doest not mind the use of the tape anymore, I like electronics so much that i run the seaking 120a and the bl 29 v3 motor on my revolt 30 and it runs solid, I'm not a racer more like an aqua basher LOL

Also got a new old stock sv27r and change the esc for the one that came with the revolt 30 and it has plenty of power, no need for 6s in my opinion

once again thank you all for the research!!!

gregster82
01-26-2015, 10:08 AM
I myself just bought this boat and havent had time to order a program card and used the hobbywing manual to program by the transmitter. Took all of 30 seconds and good thing I did because the boat runs way to hot on 6s. I took the 1800kv motor out of my old blackjack and slapped on the v3 and upgraded the cooling lines and I am surprised to say I see same amout of torque and speed but way cooler temperatures. 6s with stock electronics " motor and esc 130" " capacitors 150" batteries 130" . I have my timing set to low due to the old motor getting to hot but will play with it soon. My observation of this is they did good with hull but should of kept old electronics. Boat is very stable and when this boat sit's next to the old bj it makes it look cheap.
I am new to boats. I have been into r/c trucks but got burnt out on it over the last 4 years. I drove a boat and LOVE IT. This is also my first time getting onto a forum and reading about stuff. " Im not a kid" I have general knowledge of all electronics and stuff. My first boat was Old bj and it flipped to much so I got the new one. Again please remember I'm new at all this! Can anyone recommend me a good esc and motor combination that would smoke this setup with speed, torque and temps. I'm reading that once you get into the 2000kv range that's not good. But any info on setups and stuff I would GREATLY APPRECIATE!

RCBoaterGuy
01-26-2015, 04:51 PM
First off, welcome to this forum. There is a ton of info here, can't tell you how many hours I've spent reading through the various sections & threads in them. Like you, I have working with R/C trucks for over 4-years, but true performance boats are a whole new ball game.

I would like to offer a suggestion for the cooling lines... the one from the transom should go to the ESC first, then the horse shoe hose, then out of the ESC to the motor, out of motor goes to the side of the boat. I modified your pic best I could & attached it to this post, it's rough but I think you'll get the idea.

Can anyone recommend me a good esc and motor combination... Personally I don't see anything wrong with the ESC you have now. Next step would either be the Seaking 180 or one of the more expensive marine ESC's like Etti, Hydra Ice and so on.

As far as motors go... got MG29v2 recently, asked BHChieftan for one of his setup guides for that boat. In addition to the guide he offered very good advice.

Here's his reply... "The Miss Geico is actually my favorite RTR cat out there. I prepped one for my son who races it in p-limited offshore-- he beats folks running the stock blackjack." note: MG29 comes with 1500Kv motor - blackjack has 1800Kv motor.

Chief went on to say... "I tuned an x642 prop and blueprinted the sponsons and on 4S the boat is nearly 50mph on the 1500kv motor!"

Think you'd be happy with a great handling boat doin 50mph?? Here's what 46mph looks like... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbyiTND5IkA - not sayin that your a dumb kid, just providing some food for thought.

Yeah I know, everybody & his brother (except for me, Chief & a few others) are all hung up the 6S thing. Well guess what?? It's a bunch of Traxxas BULLS**T!!

If you want a fast boat work on the setup like Chief said. That guy knows FAR MORE about R/C boats than I do. I was (note: past tense) going to put the 1800Kv motor from my IM31 into MG29, not now. 1500Kv on 4S with a Octura x642 S&B'ed prop + Chiefs strut mod from the setup guide. I'll try the blueprinting thing when my skill sets have improved.

Welcome to the wonderful world of R/C boating, it's addicting as all hell. But they are so completely different then R/C anything else, so many variable's (just in the prop alone), now add in all the other stuff.

Here's some good reading... http://www.fastelectricboats.co.uk/fe_manual.php - this one is prop specific... http://rcraceboats.webnode.gr/news/gas-prop-essentials/ - I know it says gas props, but the concepts apply to all of them.




I myself just bought this boat and haven't had time to order a program card and used the hobbywing manual to program by the transmitter. Took all of 30 seconds and good thing I did because the boat runs way to hot on 6s. I took the 1800kv motor out of my old blackjack and slapped on the v3 and upgraded the cooling lines and I am surprised to say I see same amout of torque and speed but way cooler temperatures. 6s with stock electronics " motor and esc 130" " capacitors 150" batteries 130" . I have my timing set to low due to the old motor getting to hot but will play with it soon. My observation of this is they did good with hull but should of kept old electronics. Boat is very stable and when this boat sit's next to the old bj it makes it look cheap.

I am new to boats. I have been into r/c trucks but got burnt out on it over the last 4 years. I drove a boat and LOVE IT. This is also my first time getting onto a forum and reading about stuff. " Im not a kid" I have general knowledge of all electronics and stuff. My first boat was Old bj and it flipped to much so I got the new one. Again please remember I'm new at all this! Can anyone recommend me a good esc and motor combination that would smoke this setup with speed, torque and temps. I'm reading that once you get into the 2000kv range that's not good. But any info on setups and stuff I would GREATLY APPRECIATE!

gregster82
01-26-2015, 05:20 PM
Wow!! Okay ..Okay...
So I actually did have the lines hooked up the way that you are saying. I noticed on the new BJ V3 that it's motor to esc. I looked at the old BJ and noticed it was Esc to motor. I did the old BJ way first " with 1800 motor" and when everythang ran cool I went back to the V3 style and tried again. Everything was great.
YES I have spoken with Chief. It's so funny because I found out he is in the same area as me. I have spoken with him and LOVED his advise YES you are correct he does know alot. I lost his emails and dont know how but I did have all that info and now it's gone.
Yea Im stuck on 6s. I have been reading that alot of people do get 50+ mph with right setup on 4s....HOW THE HECK!!!!! I wish I knew boats like I do R/C cars....I'd already be competing.
When I got the V3 and drove it it was way to hot for my liking even with the timing all the way down... I was probably still in the range of being okay but I dont like to see anything over 120....Once I put the old BJ 1800kv motor in it was like night day. Just my opinion but that new 2000kv motor does not seem efficient. It had my 3s 6000mah 50c lipos to 130 degrees...... I stopped that right away....
Now that i got this motor in and it rips and stays no hotter than 110 I'm happy. Im jsut thinking if I put a seaking 180 on there and increase timing i might be able to get another 5 to 10 mph with greater torque.... Is it me or does anyone feel the same way but my new V3 120 amp esc doesnt seems as powerfull as the old dyanmite 80 amp....Maybe its the settings and the old 80 amp dyanmite had a harder start but boy oh boy did the old BJ have some crazy acceleration...
I greatly thank you for all your advice and am soaking it in. Hey Chief if you see this please send me an email. I'm so sorry I lost them and all the info I'd love to have it again.

:banana: <--- Me when I drive R/C boats...












First off, welcome to this forum. There is a ton of info here, can't tell you how many hours I've spent reading through the various sections & threads in them. Like you, I have working with R/C trucks for over 4-years (that's why I have a car program card), but true performance boats are a whole new ball game.

I was taking the pix for posts 21 & 22, but it's so time consuming that by the time I was done & ready to post Pedro had already beat me to the punch when he announced that he had succeeded in programming the ESC with the card. Now thanks your post we know the new Dynamite ESC's can also be programed with the transmitter as well as the HobbyWing (& clones) program box(s).

I would like to offer a suggestion for the cooling lines... the one from the transom should go to the ESC first, then the horse shoe hose, then out of the ESC to the motor, out of motor goes to the side of the boat. I modified your pic best I could & attached it to this post, it's rough but I think you'll get the idea.

Can anyone recommend me a good esc and motor combination... Personally I don't see anything wrong with the ESC you have now. Next step would either be the Seaking 180 or one of the more expensive marine ESC's like Etti, Hydra Ice and so on.

As far as motors go... I got MG29v2 on Jan 16th, asked BHChieftan for one of his setup guides for that boat. In addition to the guide he offered very good advice.

Here's his reply... "The Miss Geico is actually my favorite RTR cat out there. I prepped one for my son who races it in p-limited offshore-- he beats folks running the stock blackjack." note: MG29 comes with 1500Kv motor - blackjack has 1800Kv motor.

Chief went on to say... "I tuned an x642 prop and blueprinted the sponsons and on 4S the boat is nearly 50mph on the 1500kv motor!"

Hey Greg... think you'd be happy with a great handling boat doin 50mph?? Here's what 46mph looks like... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbyiTND5IkA - not sayin that your a dumb kid, just providing some food for thought.

Yeah I know, everybody & his brother (except for me, Chief & a few others) are all hung up the 6S thing. Well guess what?? It's a bunch of Traxxas BULLS**T!!

If you want a fast boat work on the setup like Chief said. That guy knows FAR MORE about R/C boats than I do. I was (note: past tense) going to put the 1800Kv motor from my IM31 into MG29, not now. 1500Kv on 4S with a Octura x642 S&B'ed prop + Chiefs strut mod from the setup guide.

Welcome to the wonderful world of R/C boating, it's addicting as all hell. But they are so completely different then R/C anything else. There are so many variable's (just in the prop alone), now add in all the other stuff.

Here's some good reading... http://www.fastelectricboats.co.uk/fe_manual.php - this one is prop specific... http://rcraceboats.webnode.gr/news/gas-prop-essentials/ - I know it says gas props, but the concepts apply to all of them.

RCBoaterGuy
01-27-2015, 02:20 AM
I don't have any experience with the new Seaking v3's or clones, but for some darn reason I just don't like them. I know what people are probably going to say, if you haven't tried them, then... forget it folks, if I have to explain you wouldn't understand.

First time I saw them I hurried up & bought the Turnigy 180 copy of Seaking 180v2. Still kicking myself in the a$$ for not buying two, cuz there impossible to find now.

If you prefer the older Seakings, HK still has them (it's a clone)... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8946__Turnigy_Marine_120A_Brushless_Boat_ESC.htm l - you already know about the programing, look at my earlier posts with the programmer pix, you already know what all that stuff is, so, no beating dead horse's.

BHChieftain
01-28-2015, 09:38 AM
I need to update the setup guide for the V3... stay tuned...
Chief

gregster82
01-29-2015, 03:41 PM
Horizon sent me the manual for the esc. I see descrepancys in it with calibration. Also they dont say it can he programmed by transmitter. Weird.....


http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/DYNM3875-manual-MULTI.pdf

Buddyroe
01-29-2015, 08:54 PM
Thanks! All the info is awesome. I ran today for a few mins. Recommend to take reverse out before you run. I wiped out a flex shaft. Lol. Anyway I just used the program box and it worked great. easy to use and no extra cable needed with the hobby wing. Think I had the strut set a lil high. Had some slip. Ran 48.8 out the box.

RCBoaterGuy
01-29-2015, 09:46 PM
Couple things... the chart showing the programmable items in those instructions looks an awful lot like the one I attached to post #9:olleyes:

I see a couple probs...
Forward & reverse, think most on this forum would suggest forward only.
Timing 15-degrees - search this forum, somewhere or another I seem to remember someone asking where timing should be set for Proboat? motors and the answer was 7.5-degrees (or less).

Instructions also say: Programming can be accomplished using the Dynamite LED Program Card (DYNS3005, sold separately). Went Dynamite's website... http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYNS3005 - no image, but, if you download the manual the diagram shows a program box that looks all too familiar.

"I see descrepancys in it with calibration" - Great catch!!

Here's what the Seaking manual says...

2.2 lf you are using a Handgun-style transmitter:

a) Move the throttle stick to the maximum position (that is: full throttle position), and then connect the battery pack to the ESC, after 2 seconds, "Beep-Beep- " tone can be heard, that means the full throttle position has been confirmed.

b) Release the throttle stick to the neutral position, a "Beep" tone can be heard, that means the neutral position has been confirmed Now the throttle range setting process is finished.


The Seaking way is how I've always done it, no probs. Car / truck ESC's same way except have to also do reverse.

Things that make you go... hhmmm



Horizon sent me the manual for the esc. I see descrepancys in it with calibration. Also they dont say it can he programmed by transmitter. Weird.....


http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/DYNM3875-manual-MULTI.pdf

gregster82
01-29-2015, 11:39 PM
Yup. When i program it i do the full throttle at battery plug in beep beep then neutral beep. Funny how we are already ahead of proboat on this issue. i called horizon the other day they said they didnt know and were waiting on proboat to tell them. I made a support ticket on horizon website and this is what they replied with. All i know is the hobbywing way works and i find it funny " not sincerely" that horizon has wrong way or misi terpreted way. But at least we all know how to do it. Im glad the word is out that way the new person buying it can look this up and se the real info fast. I spent a long time searching internet to find out for myself. I also noticed the other day that the kyosho hurricane 900ve has same esc with different cooling head of course.

Mr_3_0_5
01-30-2015, 12:11 AM
What's the point of reprogramming it via the tx?

RCBoaterGuy
01-30-2015, 01:41 AM
What's the point of reprogramming it via the tx? Some people prefer to do it that way.

I use the card because got used to doing that way from working R/C trucks for the past 4+ years.

Guess it boils down to personal preference - to each their own.



What's the point of reprogramming it via the tx?

gregster82
01-30-2015, 12:01 PM
I only did it because I don't have the card yet. Usually all my ESC's are different than hobbywing and I just got into boats. So me itching to go drive the boat I did it the transmitter way. I got a card coming.






What's the point of reprogramming it via the tx? Some people prefer to do it that way.

I use the card because got used to doing that way from working R/C trucks for the past 4+ years.

Guess it boils down to personal preference - to each their own.

Mr_3_0_5
02-02-2015, 09:42 PM
Can anyone please confirm the flex shaft size before I order some props

RCBoaterGuy
02-02-2015, 10:02 PM
Flex Shaft or the prop shaft??

Most RTR's (of this size) have .150" flex's (.187" if no liner) & 3/16" prop shafts - the majority of aftermarket props in America are 3/16" smooth bore...
ABC, Grim Racer, Octura, Prather, etc. - I honestly cannot see why PB would stray off course for this boat. Doing so would severely limit they're customer's prop choices for this model.

FYI: European's seem to prefer 4mm - both smooth bore & screw on.


Can anyone please confirm the flex shaft size before I order some props

Rafael_Lopez
02-03-2015, 06:55 PM
Can anyone please confirm the flex shaft size before I order some props
Hello Mr_3_0_5,
I can indeed confirm that the drive cable for this boat is .150 and has a 3/16 propeller shaft.

As afar as ESC programing via the transmitter, I am working with Dynamite to get the information available to everyone ASAP.

Thank you for your patience.

RCBoaterGuy
02-04-2015, 09:19 PM
Rafael,
By any chance have you read any of the other 35 posts in this thread?? The topic of programming the ESC has been beat to death...

In Post #9 I suggested using the HobbyWing program box...

In Post #19 Pedro Ramos informed us that he had successfully programmed the ESC using a HobbyWing Program card as I suggested in post #9

In Post #22 Gregster82 informed us that he had successfully programmed the ESC using his transmitter by following the instructions in the HobbyWing ESC manual I provided a link to in post #9.

In Post #27 Gregster82 informed us that: Horizon sent him the manual for the esc and that he found discrepancy's in [transmitter] calibration. He went on to say: they dont say it can he programmed by transmitter. Weird.....

I D/L'ed the Dynamite manual & found the discrepancy's gregster82 is talking about, what he said is true. The Dynamite manual is wrong, the HobbyWing manual is right.

In Post #30 Gregster82 states he did it [transmitter calibration] the same way I outlined in post #29. He went on to say... "Funny how we are already ahead of proboat on this issue"

The program box that Dynamite is working on will look nearly identical to the HobbyWing box seen in post #9 the only difference will be the face plate.

Sorry guy, gets kinda tiring seeing the same questions (that have already been answered) asked over & over again.



Hello Mr_3_0_5,
I can indeed confirm that the drive cable for this boat is .150 and has a 3/16 propeller shaft.

As afar as ESC programing via the transmitter, I am working with Dynamite to get the information available to everyone ASAP.

Thank you for your patience.

Rafael_Lopez
02-06-2015, 12:30 AM
I apologize if my comment offended you or rubbed you the wrong way, that wasn't my intention. I did read the entire thread and wanted to acknowledge the discrepancies in the manual as a representative of Horizon Hobby. I really don't feel that anyone was ahead of Pro Boat in any way, regarding this ESC. Changing or updating a manual doesn't happen overnight, and as much as we try not to, we do make mistakes but we do our best to step up and try to remedy them as best as possible.

As far as the calibration, forgive me if you already know this, this ESC has an auto calibration feature which Pro Boat and Dynamite decided would work best, in this product. The ESC will respond to the manual calibration, as you all know, but it is not necessary.

Like many other companies, we develop products in partnership with manufacturers who may already have that item on the market, but our products are tailored to our specifications, whether it be programing, the quality of the internals, or rating specifications.

In case anyone is curious, here is a little background about myself. I've been involved with RC since I was 16. I'm currently 39. I've been building my own RC boats for 6 years now, I'm not new to boating or related electronics. I've worked for Horizon Hobby for more than 2 years now and worked my way from Product Support, through other departments, up to Product Development, as of 4 months ago. Although I wasn't yet a PD when this ESC was developed, I guarantee there is nothing more you can tell me regarding it's programing.

Sorry for arriving late to the party. From here on out, I will try and keep up as best as possible. :smile:



Rafael,
By any chance have you read any of the other 35 posts in this thread?? The topic of programming the ESC has been beat to death...

In Post #9 I suggested using the HobbyWing program box...

In Post #19 Pedro Ramos informed us that he had successfully programmed the ESC using a HobbyWing Program card as I suggested in post #9

In Post #22 Gregster82 informed us that he had successfully programmed the ESC using his transmitter by following the instructions in the HobbyWing ESC manual I provided a link to in post #9.

In Post #27 Gregster82 informed us that: Horizon sent him the manual for the esc and that he found discrepancy's in [transmitter] calibration. He went on to say: they dont say it can he programmed by transmitter. Weird.....

I D/L'ed the Dynamite manual & found the discrepancy's gregster82 is talking about, what he said is true. The Dynamite manual is wrong, the HobbyWing manual is right.

In Post #30 Gregster82 states he did it [transmitter calibration] the same way I outlined in post #29. He went on to say... "Funny how we are already ahead of proboat on this issue"

The program box that Dynamite is working on will look nearly identical to the three examples attached to this post, the only difference will be the face plate.

Go here... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ming_Card.html - click on the files tab & look at face plate #2 - look familiar?? Yes, that is a HobbyWing Seaking program box faceplate. That is because the Turnigy PB is a relabeled HobbyWing box - the Onyx box is also a relabeled HobbyWing box.

Any more questions about programming the Dynamite (aka HobbyWing Seaking v3) ESC found in the new Proboat Blackjack 29 Version 3 boat??

iop65
02-06-2015, 06:50 AM
Flex Shaft or the prop shaft??


FYI: European's seem to prefer 4mm - both smooth bore & screw on.

not correct

M4 screw on or DD 3/16"

4mm bore don't know who uses that?

RCBoaterGuy
02-07-2015, 04:32 AM
It was just an observation - a result of hunting for props on the internet & checking out boats recently, ones that are not from the big name companies such as AquaCraft, Proboat & so on.

This is one place I checked out (RTR & ARTR)... http://www.tobsd.com/index.aspx - everyone that I've looked at says it has a 4mm flex drive. Most of the HK boats I've checked out (27~32 inches) also say 4mm flex drive.

Maybe I got confused somewhere along the line?? Certainly wasn't my intention to mislead anyone. I would delete the post, but you quoted me, sooo...



not correct

M4 screw on or DD 3/16"

4mm bore don't know who uses that?

Mr_3_0_5
02-07-2015, 12:40 PM
Thanks for all the info here guys you have been very helpful

Mr_3_0_5
02-07-2015, 09:42 PM
So I've been trying to get rid of this dreaded wa wa wa. I've adjusted the strut in all kinds of positions as well as moved the batteries up and down the trays and Followed chiefs strut mod.
I've been reading on here that the cg should be 1/3 of the boats length.Maybe I'm not understanding this properly but if I were to put a dowel under the hull shouldn't I be aiming to balance the boat at 8.7 inches from the transom?
Or is it from the ride pads? Will trim tabs help ?

iop65
02-08-2015, 02:42 PM
flex : 3.2 mm , 4.7 or 6.3 mm these are common sizes
every european seller has stuff for these sizes

tlandauer
02-08-2015, 05:30 PM
So I've been trying to get rid of this dreaded wa wa wa. I've adjusted the strut in all kinds of positions as well as moved the batteries up and down the trays and Followed chiefs strut mod.
I've been reading on here that the cg should be 1/3 of the boats length.Maybe I'm not understanding this properly but if I were to put a dowel under the hull shouldn't I be aiming to balance the boat at 8.7 inches from the transom?
Or is it from the ride pads? Will trim tabs help ?
I am not familiar with V3, but if I am correct, as current as V2 it was essentially the same hull as Miss Geico V1 which has a notorious wa-wa-wa- issue. Said issue is not easily fixed with adjustments of strut , batteries' position , etc.
The ride pads on that hull is somewhat less than ideal ( I am being polite here), to get rid of that you need to "blue print" them, fill them out with Bondo body filler( ok) or West Marine's Marine Rx epoxy putty ( best) . So all the concave areas are flat and no rockers ( bumps) as well, and most importantly straighten (shaping with the said putty/filler) the sposon transom into a 90* affair. I am talking the heels of the last ride pads on the back of the boat On the MG V1 it is slanted , not sure what the shape on the BlackJack V3 is....
This is REALLY a Helpful guide :
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?46617-Blueprinting-Tutorial
Good luck.
BTW, installing trim tabs on a Cat this size and with moderate speeds is not apparently helpful, only two or three people tried it and one found it was helpful, the debate was a messy one , it is up to you. But blue printing is really an honest way of attempting to get rid of the wa-wa-wa.

luv2fly27
02-09-2015, 12:16 AM
Hi. I have the new Blackjack 29 v3. I was running 4s but moved up to 6s and enjoying the faster speed. Any recommendations for a prop that will improve top speed on 6s? I have seem some comments about an Octura x440 and x442 for this version of the Blackjack. Any other feedback? If speed would only go up 2-3mph I probably won't make a change but if it's 5-10mph then would consider spending the $$. Thanks!!

Buddyroe
02-09-2015, 09:08 AM
Hi. I have the new Blackjack 29 v3. I was running 4s but moved up to 6s and enjoying the faster speed. Any recommendations for a prop that will improve top speed on 6s? I have seem some comments about an Octura x440 and x442 for this version of the Blackjack. Any other feedback? If speed would only go up 2-3mph I probably won't make a change but if it's 5-10mph then would consider spending the $$. Thanks!!
I have a big selection of props to try when I get time. Mine ran 48.8mph out the box on 6s. I will let you know what I come up with. Todd

Darin Jordan
02-09-2015, 09:45 AM
Guys... just to be clear... the V3 BlackJack 29 is a completely new hull.

"What would you change on the BJ29 hull if you had a chance to update it" was asked. I got out my drawing equipment and drew up the changes (hull-geometry stuff), and Pro Boat responded. Pro Boat added the interior re-design and some updated hardware.

Without getting into gory details.... New ride pad geometry, blended here, angled there, etc. If setup correctly, the "Wa-Wa" shouldn't be there.

The hull is quite a bit "beefier". It's being manufactured from a new supplier and I think you'll find it quite a bit stronger. That comes at a weight penalty, but that is what it is. You can't always have both. Even with the additional weight, the hull comes out of the box 1-2mph faster than previous versions.

Ride pads should be arriving much flatter and a bit sharper. It's still a "mass-produced" product, so it's not going to be perfect and there is always room for "blue-printing". That's the case with EVERY boat out there, Production or not.

Also, Rafael Lopez, who introduced himself above in this thread, is the new Pro Boat development manager at Horizon and is quite a forward thinking guy. He's a little new to boats, but from what I saw at my last visit to LA, he has things well-in-hand. I think you'll see some fun stuff in coming years. Give the guy a break. You guys seem awefully quick to "pounce" on a guy who is only here to try to help. Maybe sit back and count to 10 before you hit "post reply" and think about how the conversation would go if you were sitting there face-to-face.

luv2fly27
02-09-2015, 11:27 AM
I have a big selection of props to try when I get time. Mine ran 48.8mph out the box on 6s. I will let you know what I come up with. Todd


Thanks Todd! Interested to hear what you find. If anyone else has some prop suggestions that should push 50+ Id love to hear about it! Thanks again

RCBoaterGuy
02-10-2015, 10:14 PM
Darin,
...The hull is quite a bit "beefier". It's being manufactured from a new supplier...
Does that also apply to the new Mean Green SW26?? Trav has one, going over 50mph to boot, seem to remember reading one or more of his posts where he mentioned them having a better hull than the v3's.

Regarding the BJ29v3... That comes at a weight penalty... ok, by the time you B/P a MG29 hull, you've added weight (bondo \ marine putty)... yes??

Could've swore I've seen posts where your reminding folks about the new Dynamite 3660-2000Kv motors being a lot stronger than the Dynamite 1800's they replaced. If yes, than I would think that would more than make up for the slight weight increase. Just an observation....



Guys... just to be clear... the V3 BlackJack 29 is a completely new hull.

"What would you change on the BJ29 hull if you had a chance to update it" was asked. I got out my drawing equipment and drew up the changes (hull-geometry stuff), and Pro Boat responded. Pro Boat added the interior re-design and some updated hardware.

Without getting into gory details.... New ride pad geometry, blended here, angled there, etc. If setup correctly, the "Wa-Wa" shouldn't be there.

The hull is quite a bit "beefier". It's being manufactured from a new supplier and I think you'll find it quite a bit stronger. That comes at a weight penalty, but that is what it is. You can't always have both. Even with the additional weight, the hull comes out of the box 1-2mph faster than previous versions.

Ride pads should be arriving much flatter and a bit sharper. It's still a "mass-produced" product, so it's not going to be perfect and there is always room for "blue-printing". That's the case with EVERY boat out there, Production or not.

Also, Rafael Lopez, who introduced himself above in this thread, is the new Pro Boat development manager at Horizon and is quite a forward thinking guy. He's a little new to boats, but from what I saw at my last visit to LA, he has things well-in-hand. I think you'll see some fun stuff in coming years. Give the guy a break. You guys seem awefully quick to "pounce" on a guy who is only here to try to help. Maybe sit back and count to 10 before you hit "post reply" and think about how the conversation would go if you were sitting there face-to-face.

Pedro Ramos
02-10-2015, 10:33 PM
ok guys, I agree with Darin Jordan, this new hull that now I had it for a while now, i don't experience wa-wa-wa on flat or choppy waters, on 4s or 6s, believe it or not it still has the stock hardware setup, I did not move it a lil bit. I just position my batteries all the way to the front and presto.
Regarding Mr Rafael Lopez, welcome to the forum, my only suggestion to you is to work on customer service response. till this date I'm waiting a respond on how to eliminate reverse on the esc, never mind I have the boat since December that is just unacceptable as far as I'm concerned. Thanks to forums like this is how i got my answers and NOT by the manufacture.

RCBoaterGuy
02-10-2015, 10:44 PM
Hey Pedro...
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't you say in an earlier post that you had figured out how program the ESC with the HobbyWing program box??

If yes, change item#1 from 2 to 1 --- see attached --- 2 is forward & reverse, 1 is forward only.

If you need further assistance, please ask...



ok guys, I agree with Darin Jordan, this new hull that now I had it for a while now, i don't experience wa-wa-wa on flat or choppy waters, on 4s or 6s, believe it or not it still has the stock hardware setup, I did not move it a lil bit. I just position my batteries all the way to the front and presto.
Regarding Mr Rafael Lopez, welcome to the forum, my only suggestion to you is to work on customer service response. till this date I'm waiting a respond on how to eliminate reverse on the esc, never mind I have the boat since December that is just unacceptable as far as I'm concerned. Thanks to forums like this is how i got my answers and NOT by the manufacture.

Pedro Ramos
02-10-2015, 11:00 PM
thanks to you guys is all done!!!


Hey Pedro...
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't you say in an earlier post that you had figured out how program the ESC with the HobbyWing program box??

If yes, change item#1 from 2 to 1 --- see attached --- 2 is forward & reverse, 1 is forward only.

If you need further assistance, please ask...

RCBoaterGuy
02-10-2015, 11:08 PM
Guess that means it worked... :thumbup1:



thanks to you guys is all done!!!

Mr_3_0_5
02-10-2015, 11:47 PM
You guys can say this new hull doesn't do the wa wa wa but I assure you it does. that is what made me search this topic and find this forum to begin with. I have not tried with the packs all the way foward and will try that tomorrow
Everywhere I read it says that makes the bounce worse. Can anyone answer the CG question?

Buddyroe
02-10-2015, 11:58 PM
You guys can say this new hull doesn't do the wa wa wa but I assure you it does. that is what made me search this topic and find this forum to begin with. I have not tried with the packs all the way foward and will try that tomorrow
Everywhere I read it says that makes the bounce worse. Can anyone answer the CG question?

Mine don't. Pacs all the way back. It did a lil when they where forward.

iop65
02-11-2015, 07:02 AM
without telling this guy the position off the strut , and even better posting pictures , it is completely useless to tell him where to put the packs

Buddyroe
02-11-2015, 02:46 PM
without telling this guy the position off the strut , and even better posting pictures , it is completely useless to tell him where to put the packs

Strut bottom .125" above

iop65
02-12-2015, 03:22 AM
angle?

T.S.Davis
02-12-2015, 10:29 AM
Maybe I missed it but is the canopy of a thicker construction than the last version? The old one would disintegrate if you stuffed it just right.

ray schrauwen
02-12-2015, 02:03 PM
Yes, its a better canopy, fiberglass to boot. I use a Tiqueman FG hatch on my geico for a few years now.

Darin Jordan
02-12-2015, 02:06 PM
Maybe I missed it but is the canopy of a thicker construction than the last version? The old one would disintegrate if you stuffed it just right.

Terry, the ENTIRE boat is "thicker"... Heavier glass layup, new canopy opening shape (rectangular instead of curved), glass canopy, etc...

Buddyroe
02-12-2015, 09:12 PM
angle?

Lil positive trim. My pics don't work sometimes. Charge your battery's and go test.

RCBoaterGuy
02-13-2015, 09:14 PM
Gregster82 put a link to the manual in post #27... There is a chart in it, the chart & default values are exactly the same as the Seaking chart I attached to post #9.

Here are my recommendations based on real world experience's...

Item #1 - default = 2 - direction = [Forward & Reverse] -- Change it to 1 [Forward Only]

Item #2 - default = [Auto] {Let the ESC detect the number of cells of your LiPo pack(s)} - I don't trust auto, set it to the actual number of cells the LiPo pack(s) have. -- For my SW26 running a single 3S pack, the setting is 3 - for Miss Geico 29 & Impulse 31 the setting is 4 (2x 2S packs)

Item #3 - default = 4 - [Low Voltage Cutoff = 3.2V/Cell] - I'm comfortable with that setting & use it

Item #4 - default = 5 - [timing = 15.00°] - As stated in post #9 "that is wayyyy too high!!" it will make your motor run hot, probably the ESC & batteries too, also lower run times because of higher amp draw.

Real world experience with my boats has taught me that 7.5° timing is top of the mark, past that & problems start. With my trucks it's 7.5° or 11.25° depending on the setup & other factors. The reduced timing has resulted in cooler running motors & batteries.

In this thread... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?50039-Volume-order-for-tp-3630-1950 - Doug told me to set timing to Zero or 3.75° max (post #50). He has far more experience than I do, needless to say his advice will be followed.

Programming the Seaking \ Turnigy & various clones of them is very easy & straight forward, especially with the program card \ box.



Anyone have a programming box and can tell me what the factory setting of the esc are ?
It would be greatly appreciated

Darin Jordan
02-14-2015, 12:59 AM
Guys... not trying to rain on anyone's parade here, but I think that many spend WAY too much time worrying about timing and ESC settings and not enough on prop work and setup. The gains from ESC timing is really quite minimal, especially in comparison to getting a prop that works just right.

fusion_m8
02-14-2015, 08:11 AM
I've searched the internet until my fingers are bleedin from typin.... still no BJ29v3 owners have posted a video of their v3 running 4s or 6s!!! *sigh*

RCBoaterGuy
02-14-2015, 05:37 PM
Too busy worrying about how to program the ESC :spy:


I've searched the internet until my fingers are bleedin from typin.... still no BJ29v3 owners have posted a video of their v3 running 4s or 6s!!! *sigh*

luv2fly27
02-14-2015, 09:30 PM
Yes, its a better canopy, fiberglass to boot. I use a Tiqueman FG hatch on my geico for a few years now.

Guys I just ran my Blackjack29 v3. Bought 2 Dynamite 3s 5000mah 50c. lipos and I upgraded the prop to an Octura M440 Sharpened and Balanced. This thing absolutely halls! Clocked at 58.6 mph!! Ran it for 9 minutes and motor and ESC warm but not hot by any means. This has the 2000kv motor and 120 Amp ESC. The new hull is awesome and rides super smooth and stable. Just wanted to share.

Buddyroe
02-14-2015, 10:40 PM
Guys I just ran my Blackjack29 v3. Bought 2 Dynamite 3s 5000mah 50c. lipos and I upgraded the prop to an Octura M440 Sharpened and Balanced. This thing absolutely halls! Clocked at 58.6 mph!! Ran it for 9 minutes and motor and ESC warm but not hot by any means. This has the 2000kv motor and 120 Amp ESC. The new hull is awesome and rides super smooth and stable. Just wanted to share.
That's awesome! Can't wait to go run mine now.

luv2fly27
02-15-2015, 01:05 AM
That's awesome! Can't wait to go run mine now.

I also made sure to apply some marine grease to my flex shaft!

siberianhusky
02-15-2015, 12:25 PM
Must check out one of the new ones, the new(ish) Blackjack is by far my favorite of the PB cats(paint wise).
They do run very nice blueprinted and well set up.
Might have to wait and see if I can pick up a used hull and hardware. Have a bunch of 1800kv old style PB motors I can stick in it, it would be a 4s boat. Only one guy in the group runs 6s, everybody else runs 4s setups. Done the straight line speed thing, not my cup of tea, my boats have to be fast around a course with 4 or 5 other boats.
I do get a kick out of watching some video of the top guys doing SAW runs, what they are doing speed wise is very impressive, those boats are dialed in to perfection for the conditions at that exact time, hours and hours of testing. Lots of money spent on equipment who's life was measured in seconds.

luv2fly27
02-15-2015, 02:03 PM
https://vimeo.com/119690469

Here's my Blackjack 29 v3 on 6s, (2 Reaction 3s 5000mah, 50c lipos). Sorry quality isn't the best but this thing moves!!!

Buddyroe
02-15-2015, 07:45 PM
http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo37/buddyroe-88/th_C1F53FC8-ADD5-4AD8-AFA0-9D9298645381.jpg (http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo37/buddyroe-88/C1F53FC8-ADD5-4AD8-AFA0-9D9298645381.mp4)
http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo37/buddyroe-88/E9D0EE22-70A4-42DA-A219-36B58FDE8FDB.jpg (http://s359.photobucket.com/user/buddyroe-88/media/E9D0EE22-70A4-42DA-A219-36B58FDE8FDB.jpg.html)

Buddyroe
02-15-2015, 07:48 PM
Ran better today with a prop change. Water was choppy. A few boats had passed.

T.S.Davis
02-15-2015, 09:55 PM
What prop did the boat like?

Buddyroe
02-15-2015, 10:05 PM
GrimRacer 42x66 was fastest.
40x52 3blade was fun only ran 50.4 but accelerated hard.

fusion_m8
02-16-2015, 05:19 AM
Here's my Blackjack 29 v3 on 6s, (2 Reaction 3s 5000mah, 50c lipos). Sorry quality isn't the best but this thing moves!!!

Thanks for the vid, perhaps the COG and strut still needs some ironing out but the V3 appears to still porpoise a bit on full throttle.

luv2fly27
02-16-2015, 03:04 PM
Thanks for the vid, perhaps the COG and strut still needs some ironing out but the V3 appears to still porpoise a bit on full throttle.

Thanks. This video was still using the stock prop. I will try and upload a video using my Octura M440 Sharpened and Balanced as well. Def made a difference.

T.S.Davis
02-16-2015, 03:14 PM
I just noticed you were running 6s. Did you make any 4s runs?

luv2fly27
02-16-2015, 03:30 PM
I just noticed you were running 6s. Did you make any 4s runs?
Yes, I made a few 4s runs in the beginning but was considerably slower and not that exciting to run.

Mr_3_0_5
02-19-2015, 05:58 PM
Stock v3 on 6s and cnc 442 ran 45.7mph
What's the total pitch of the 42x66?


http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa197/MR_3_0_5/image.jpg1_zpsvmqqvnhl.jpg (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/MR_3_0_5/media/image.jpg1_zpsvmqqvnhl.jpg.html)

Mr_3_0_5
02-19-2015, 08:06 PM
Threw a m642 hit 50.4 and broke the flex shaft in half
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa197/MR_3_0_5/image.jpg1_zpsqwtbnc1f.jpg (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/MR_3_0_5/media/image.jpg1_zpsqwtbnc1f.jpg.html)

Buddyroe
02-20-2015, 12:12 AM
I took out a shaft my 2 nd run. Think I hit reverse by accident. I removed the reverse and have not had any problems.

maxmekker
02-20-2015, 08:04 PM
Now my Geico has been on the shelf for way to long, so just sold it today, looking into getting the Lucas oil instead ( I can not get the wawawa out of my Geico hull, and from the Clips on tube from LO it seems to ride much better ) But seeing this , has made me think twice. this seems like a great step up from the Geico hull. My friends Mystic was so much better to tune in, and now with this V3 hull, they must have done it all right.
Just wondering about the offset rudder, was the mystic design, were it would sit flush on the back of the hull , not working ? . I have the kinteck kit on my Geico, and I find it 'dragging' in the water, seems from the video this hull has some of the same design on the rudder as the Kinteck .

Rafael_Lopez
02-24-2015, 05:25 PM
Hi guys,

I'll chime in here and share some info that might be useful to some of you. This info has come about through development as well as from running my personal boat for fun.


My boat is all stock with the exception of having the bottom of the strut even with the ride pads. Prop is stock, not balanced.

With the stock timing of 15* I got a best of 50.8 mph with our Dynamite Reaction 80C 5700mah 11.1v packs, 6s. The system draws 80 amps continuous at that voltage/speed.

With the timing set to 7.5* the boat ran a best of 45.4 mph with the same packs, but amperage went down to 70 amps continuous, and motor connector temps dropped as well. This option leaves more room to play with props if you want to get back up to 50+, at your own risk.
I have found that depending on your battery weight, CG, and playing with the strut angle, you can minimize the bounce of the boat, for specific water conditions. Sometimes I only get a little bounce as it passes over my it's own ripples. I'm not saying blue printing doesn't work. It's just not the only option.


Hope this helps!:smile:

Buddyroe
02-24-2015, 11:17 PM
Hi guys,

I'll chime in here and share some info that might be useful to some of you. This info has come about through development as well as from running my personal boat for fun.


My boat is all stock with the exception of having the bottom of the strut even with the ride pads. Prop is stock, not balanced.

With the stock timing of 15* I got a best of 50.8 mph with our Dynamite Reaction 80C 5700mah 11.1v packs, 6s. The system draws 80 amps continuous at that voltage/speed.

With the timing set to 7.5* the boat ran a best of 45.4 mph with the same packs, but amperage went down to 70 amps continuous, and motor connector temps dropped as well. This option leaves more room to play with props if you want to get back up to 50+, at your own risk.
I have found that depending on your battery weight, CG, and playing with the strut angle, you can minimize the bounce of the boat, for specific water conditions. Sometimes I only get a little bounce as it passes over my it's own ripples. I'm not saying blue printing doesn't work. It's just not the only option.


Hope this helps!:smile:

Dynamite Reaction 80C 5700mah 11.1v packs. Do they come with EC5 connection ?

Rafael_Lopez
02-24-2015, 11:50 PM
Buddyroe, no they don't offer those with EC5 connectors. We changed the connectors on them to test them with this system. These are from when we were finding packs to recommend for this system. We opted to go recommend the 5000mAH, 50C packs because they are more affordable and honestly, the data didn't show enough of a gain to sway us to recommend the 80C packs.

I used those as an example because those happened to be the packs I used last. Personally, I only run Reaction 50C packs.

luv2fly27
02-25-2015, 12:31 AM
Hi guys,

I'll chime in here and share some info that might be useful to some of you. This info has come about through development as well as from running my personal boat for fun.


My boat is all stock with the exception of having the bottom of the strut even with the ride pads. Prop is stock, not balanced.

With the stock timing of 15* I got a best of 50.8 mph with our Dynamite Reaction 80C 5700mah 11.1v packs, 6s. The system draws 80 amps continuous at that voltage/speed.

With the timing set to 7.5* the boat ran
a best of 45.4 mph with the same packs, but amperage went down to 70 amps continuous, and motor connector temps dropped as well. This option leaves more room to play with props if you want to get back up to 50+, at your own risk.
I have found that depending on your battery weight, CG, and playing with the strut angle, you can minimize the bounce of the boat, for specific water conditions. Sometimes I only get a little bounce as it passes over my it's own ripples. I'm not saying blue printing doesn't work. It's just not the only option.


Hope this helps!:smile:

Thanks for the good review. One question. When you say your strut is level with the pads are you raising it up a little from where it normally sits when it comes out of the box? I've been trying to mess with different strut positions (only raising it) and not seeing much of a difference. Any feedback would be appreciated.

tlandauer
02-25-2015, 01:11 AM
As a person responsible for product development, I am sure Mr. Lopez ran the prop stock unbalanced for testing purposes. With all due respect, I would just like to remind you that for your maximum enjoyment, all metal props ( CNC props may be the exception here although I carefully thin their leading edges ) should be balanced, sharpened ( thinned) properly. The Proboat prop is heavy and some are more out of balanced than others in their "raw" form, and can cause excessive wear on the bushing of the strut.

Darin Jordan
02-25-2015, 10:15 AM
As a person responsible for product development, I am sure Mr. Lopez ran the prop stock unbalanced for testing purposes. With all due respect, I would just like to remind you that for your maximum enjoyment, all metal props ( CNC props may be the exception here although I carefully thin their leading edges ) should be balanced, sharpened ( thinned) properly. The Proboat prop is heavy and some are more out of balanced than others in their "raw" form, and can cause excessive wear on the bushing of the strut.

In many early tests with the Miss Geico (original), I actually found a 1 to 1.5mph increase using the stock black plastic prop over the original metal ones.

The newer metal ones are much better.

Like any metal prop... (yes, Grimracer props included), the owner would be well advised to at least minimally prepare them. No two out of the package are exactly the same.

Buddyroe
02-25-2015, 01:15 PM
Thanks for all the info! Going to find some calm water soon as weather gets right and try putting the timing up to 15. Hoping for 60. I will video it again.

Rafael_Lopez
02-25-2015, 02:28 PM
Thanks for the good review. One question. When you say your strut is level with the pads are you raising it up a little from where it normally sits when it comes out of the box? I've been trying to mess with different strut positions (only raising it) and not seeing much of a difference. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Hi luv2fly27,
Yes I am raising the strut. Adding no more than 1-2* of negative angle helps as well as this makes the boat ride flatter/wetter and is less prone to bouncing. This dos effect mph a little, but nothing major. It's either going to run somewhat smooth and lose a little mph or run dry with a bit more bounce.



As a person responsible for product development, I am sure Mr. Lopez ran the prop stock unbalanced for testing purposes. With all due respect, I would just like to remind you that for your maximum enjoyment, all metal props ( CNC props may be the exception here although I carefully thin their leading edges ) should be balanced, sharpened ( thinned) properly. The Proboat prop is heavy and some are more out of balanced than others in their "raw" form, and can cause excessive wear on the bushing of the strut. That's correct, I run the prop unbalanced to see how long it will take to wear the strut bushings. Even after initial development, testing never really stops. The prop doesn't need much work to get it simply balanced, but as Darin will tell you, a worked prop will take many of hours. Usually, stainless props are closer to being balanced than brass props.

BHChieftain
02-27-2015, 10:54 AM
Hi,
If you are looking to blueprint the hull, reminder I have a video tutorial on that. This one is for the Blackjack/Geico V2 but the blueprinting will apply to any cat.

http://www.rcchiefhobbies.com/Tutorials.html

Chief

maxmekker
02-27-2015, 02:36 PM
Just wondering about the offset rudder, was the mystic design, were it would sit flush on the back of the hull , not working ? . I have the kinteck kit on my Geico, and I find it 'dragging' in the water, seems from the video this hull has some of the same design on the rudder as the Kinteck .

fusion_m8
02-28-2015, 12:41 AM
Awesome videos on YouTube also, I never tire of watching them!


Hi,
If you are looking to blueprint the hull, reminder I have a video tutorial on that. This one is for the Blackjack/Geico V2 but the blueprinting will apply to any cat.

http://www.rcchiefhobbies.com/Tutorials.html

Chief

BHChieftain
03-04-2015, 10:35 AM
Awesome videos on YouTube also, I never tire of watching them!

Thanks!
I have a short cut to our club videos grouped here:

http://www.rcchiefhobbies.com/Club-Videos.html

Chief

Alexbarber
03-08-2015, 02:28 AM
I got a question am ordering a prop I just don't know which one many say a x442 but I seen ppl put a x442 on a stock blackjack29 mines has a hobbywing 180a esc and a leopard 4074 2000kv which I've read it revs a higher rpm than the stock proboat set up I don't wanna order a x442 prop if it isn't going to do as well as a x445 prop I need help before I purchase this prop I know it has to be balanced and etc I just want to know which mm will be great for a top speed. Thanks

tlandauer
03-08-2015, 04:46 AM
It is the same RPM on paper regardless whether it is your 4074 or the stock PB 2000kv motor running on the same cell count. Loaded RPM is another story.......Several of us said 42mm prop because you want to run 6s. On 4s, by all means the M445 would be my choice, in fact, it is my choice.
Spend some time looking at the props here at the OSE STORE, you will see a variety of props. Octura props need balancing and sharpening. The CNC props don't need balancing but still some careful thinning especially on the leading edge.
You also need to know the difference between x and m series prop. Too bad I dont have my desk top to help you, way on business and the tablet is so bad. But do a search, you need to know it to make a better choice.
If you are going to run 4s, then I would get the m445, x642 is also great. Note that in the x series, the 442 and 642 have the same dia. But the former has less pitch where as the 642 has more pitch. 4 ( pitch=1,4) 42( 42mm)...... 6( pitch=1.6) 42 (42mm)
That is how you read the props, so aside from the diameter, there is pitch to consider. The more pitch the more agressive and also the need to be cafeful with your temperature on tye ESC. Note this is just an extremely generalization, just want to give you a quick view, hopefully some other people with better knowledge will chime in to help you.

Alexbarber
03-08-2015, 08:36 PM
Homie u been a great help I appreciate u taking time off ur day to write that so others can learn I think umma start with a m642 I gps the boat today it ran a 52.1 with stock prop and adjusted strut I'll post a before and after video with the props again, thanks



It is the same RPM on paper regardless whether it is your 4074 or the stock PB 2000kv motor running on the same cell count. Loaded RPM is another story.......Several of us said 42mm prop because you want to run 6s. On 4s, by all means the M445 would be my choice, in fact, it is my choice.
Spend some time looking at the props here at the OSE STORE, you will see a variety of props. Octura props need balancing and sharpening. The CNC props don't need balancing but still some careful thinning especially on the leading edge.
You also need to know the difference between x and m series prop. Too bad I dont have my desk top to help you, way on business and the tablet is so bad. But do a search, you need to know it to make a better choice.
If you are going to run 4s, then I would get the m445, x642 is also great. Note that in the x series, the 442 and 642 have the same dia. But the former has less pitch where as the 642 has more pitch. 4 ( pitch=1,4) 42( 42mm)...... 6( pitch=1.6) 42 (42mm)
That is how you read the props, so aside from the diameter, there is pitch to consider. The more pitch the more agressive and also the need to be cafeful with your temperature on tye ESC. Note this is just an extremely generalization, just want to give you a quick view, hopefully some other people with better knowledge will chime in to help you.

jlandry48
03-14-2015, 09:31 PM
I just got the BJ29V3..Great boat so far. Thank you for the info in the HW program card..works like a charm. With some minor motor angle adjustments, it runs much better than before...

Nigelpugh7
04-05-2015, 08:43 AM
Hi Guys,

Just joined the forum as I have recently got a new V3 Blackjack.

I have not had a quick boat for over 20 years, all my RC has been gas powered cars, and more recently I have been flying my DJI F550 Hexacopter.

Here's a few pics of new blackjack as it arrived.

Not had chance to get out on the water yet, as I need some new decent batteries, sadly my hardcsse 5000 4s are too big,,and probably to powerful too!

130489
130490

ray schrauwen
04-05-2015, 12:12 PM
Thank you for the detailed picture of the inside of your v3 BJ29. Finally I can see the motor mount system and the nice beefy steering arm. Looks like they have done a nice job on this version. Your batteries should be as powerful as you can afford but, hard case lipos definitely won't fit as well as soft case lipos do.
There is no such thing as too powerful batteries for rc boats IMO.

Nigelpugh7
04-06-2015, 04:02 AM
Thanks for the feedback on my post! Yes the hardware in the V3 BJ does all look like good stuff! If I am lucky today a set of batteries that I ordered might turn up and I can get out on my local lake whilst the sun is shining today. And as far as my big hardcase lipos, yes it's a shame they don't fit, as I am sure it will really haul with those fitted!

helidan
04-10-2015, 01:38 PM
Hi mate!

So that's at least two Pistonheaders on here now!

These lipos might be worth a shot. http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=31929

They're cheap as chips and wired in parallel will provide 6600mah capacity. I've measured inside the boat and there is loads of room for them. 5s packs look to be about the size limit in the sponsons.

Paul Killick
04-26-2015, 01:05 PM
Hi all, new to the forum and just purchased a Blackjack 29 V3.
Question for you, above the on off switch for the esc there is a tiny micro switch, when I push and hold this down the light on the esc starts to flash but I have no idea what this is for, no reference in the instructions.
Could this be for switching the type of battery used like the V2?131181

helidan
04-27-2015, 05:22 AM
I asked about the button but nobody seems to know. It's probably for programming but I use a program card.

Nigelpugh7
04-27-2015, 05:29 AM
I have not worked out what it is for on mine yet either. However mine did have an issue where the tranny became unbound, so I had to rebind it,,and it seemed fine!

One more thing I noticed though, was it was getting very hot on th esc yesterday after some long full speed runs, and there was a red flashing light on the esc when coming back to shore. Is this an over temp warning I wonder?

Nigelpugh7
04-27-2015, 05:30 AM
Here's a video of some of the runs yesterday too.


http://youtu.be/i7VMWg1jOEw

Nigelpugh7
04-27-2015, 05:32 AM
Hi mate!

So that's at least two Pistonheaders on here now!

These lipos might be worth a shot. http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=31929

They're cheap as chips and wired in parallel will provide 6600mah capacity. I've measured inside the boat and there is loads of room for them. 5s packs look to be about the size limit in the sponsons.

Sorry buddy, missed your message!

Yep seems quite a few of the PH crew are here now, as they took advantage of the good price on the blackjack.

Have you tried those batteries yet? They seem too cheap to be true!

iop65
04-27-2015, 05:50 AM
about 25 sec : full throttle ? and wawawawawawaw......

tried to get it out?

high temps esc : seems like you were running it most off the time partial throttle

Nigelpugh7
04-27-2015, 06:09 AM
about 25 sec : full throttle ? and wawawawawawaw......

tried to get it out?

high temps esc : seems like you were running it most off the time partial throttle

Yep it was doing a bit of that, probably due to battery positioning, I did not bother checking the cog.

Could also do with trimming the prop angle I reckon, might also try tubing directly into the esc first as well.

helidan
04-27-2015, 06:18 AM
Yep, I ordered four of the Zippy Compacts (4s, 3700mah, 35C) and so far I can't fault them. I can probably push 7mins runtime and still have some reserve capacity. Lipos are barely warm after use. My boat was rewired to run the packs in parallel.

Just waiting on a magnetic balancer now so I can set about sharpening and balancing the prop.

Yours seems to be running well btw. 4s or 6s?

helidan
04-27-2015, 06:21 AM
Have you checked your cooling flow Nigel? Mine required some filing to the rudder slots to get the water to flow reliably. I also slotted the jacket nipples with a Dremel. Just waiting for some tubing to arrive so I can re-plumb the entire boat, ESC first in the loop.

Nigelpugh7
04-27-2015, 06:26 AM
Yep, I ordered four of the Zippy Compacts (4s, 3700mah, 35C) and so far I can't fault them. I can probably push 7mins runtime and still have some reserve capacity. Lipos are barely warm after use. My boat was rewired to run the packs in parallel.

Just waiting on a magnetic balancer now so I can set about sharpening and balancing the prop.

Yours seems to be running well btw. 4s or 6s?

I am running 4s, 5000mah 35 c.

What is the advantage running them in parallel out of interest?

My batteries get very warm after use though!

Nigelpugh7
04-27-2015, 06:28 AM
Have you checked your cooling flow Nigel? Mine required some filing to the rudder slots to get the water to flow reliably. I also slotted the jacket nipples with a Dremel. Just waiting for some tubing to arrive so I can re-plumb the entire boat, ESC first in the loop.

That's interesting , what did you do file the holes in the rudder out? You will have to show me a picture of what you did to the nipples, I have no idea what you mean on that!
I think that I will be re doing the water pipe too, it needs to be bigger to help the flow, what size did you go for?

helidan
04-27-2015, 06:40 AM
I just used a small round needle file and elongated/deepened the slots on both sides. Afterwards I polished up the slots with a bit of wet-and-dry. Regarding the nipples, if you take a measurement from the outside of the jacket to the inside and then also measure how much the nipples screw into the jacket you might find the bottom of the nipples are very close to the bottom of the jacket which could impede the flow. All you need to do is cut a couple of small slots in the end of the threads to allow a bit better flow.

The tubing I went for is 3.2mm id thickwall stuff. I also ordered a transom water pickup but I don't know if I'll actually fit it.

Fr8cture
05-11-2015, 03:42 PM
I'm about to buy my Blackjack 29 either tonight or tomorrow. My question is about batterys. I'm either looking at SMC 7200mah 60c 2s or SPC (which I've used before) 8200mah 50c 2s. I would like the bigger batterys but would that be too much weight?

Paul Killick
05-11-2015, 05:13 PM
I use two Turnigy 3s 5000mah 20-30c packs in series and changed the prop to a Octura m440 but running it at 4s with a x442 prop speed is similar and a fair bit more stable.

Fr8cture
05-11-2015, 07:02 PM
From what I read 20c is not a good idea. More concered about the weight of a 8200mah pack not the c rating though.

Paul Killick
05-12-2015, 02:01 AM
Well my Blackjack V3, Arowana 31 and a Hydro all use the 20-30c 5000 packs in series and have never had any problems, I get 5-6 minutes with the blackjack using the standard motor and esc although I will be changing the motor for a Leopard as several at my club have done this, a few have 1400kv and 1700kv seem to be more efficient motors.
I have tried larger mah packs from others at the club but as you have mentioned this adds additional weight and size.

ray schrauwen
05-12-2015, 02:23 PM
Paul, if you are wanting to sell the stock motor I may be interested. Posting from UK to Canada may be crazy though.

Fr8cture
05-12-2015, 05:15 PM
Yeah I plan on running stock on 4s and probably get a s&b prop when one comes in stock and eventually going to a better setup for 6s. I was just wondering if the weight is an issue or if it will hurt performance. Guy on facebook said it would be fine and the higher amps would be better.

montymike
05-17-2015, 10:50 AM
:spy:Can be programmed with a hobbywing program box. Was suspect to this.

montymike
06-09-2015, 04:27 PM
That MOTOR is a d wind 7.5 or less I'm thinking a boat a 3630 1500tp 7y motor on mine don't like the stock motor on 6s also needs 50c+ battery very stable boat. More fun on 6s then 4s used a x640 an octura prop.

waterproof
06-26-2015, 05:02 PM
Hi. I maby want to buy this boat and use it on 6s.
Would it be stupid fast or could the hull handle it without bounce to high and just flip over?

Had a miss geico v2 before on 6s with upgraded esc and it just flip over to often, tryed all the adjustments without blueprinting.
The blackjack v3 do not need to be blueprinted?

Almost every video on YouTube it run to high and bounce to mutch..

montymike
06-26-2015, 05:59 PM
This boat is way better then the old boats. Fast stable does not bounce like the V1 *v2 if u like the geico will be out in July same as bj3 . With geico online rudder.

waterproof
07-01-2015, 05:03 AM
I got the boat yesterday and i hope i could try it out today if i get the ec5 Connection.
Do you know what the Stock esc setup is? Thinking about the lipocut, if it cut or slow the speed so i could run it in land.
Is the flex shaft from miss Geico 29 the same as the blackjack v3?
Cant get a programcard because almost everybody is sold out right now and Horizon hobby does not ship to my country..

montymike
07-01-2015, 09:24 AM
Ok well can use the hobywing program card. Just need a short male to male cord.
On mine setup was 1. forward and backward pos.2, 2 auto calculations pos. 1 3 low voltage cutoff pos. 4 (3.2)v 4 timing 15°pos 5
Only one I changed was timiing to 7.5°
The flex shaft is not the same as the V1&2 geico as the V3 blackjack (motor position) not sure on the new v3 geico coming in July thinking same as v3 blackJack .


Hope this helps mike

Rafael_Lopez
07-01-2015, 12:46 PM
Montymike is right as far as the settings. The online manual shows 7.5* timing. That is because of a running change I have made that will take effect in the near future.

The drive cable, and everything else other than paint, is the same for both V3 29 inch hulls.

montymike
07-01-2015, 12:59 PM
Montymike is right as far as the settings. The online manual shows 7.5* timing. That is because of a running change I have made that will take effect in the near future.

The drive cable, and everything else other than paint, is the same for both V3 29 inch hulls.

Thanks Rafael l...

waterproof
07-01-2015, 02:51 PM
Montymike is right as far as the settings. The online manual shows 7.5* timing. That is because of a running change I have made that will take effect in the near future.

The drive cable, and everything else other than paint, is the same for both V3 29 inch hulls.

Hi Rafael.
Im still unsure if i want to try the boat with my new 35c 5200mh 3s lipo.
It stand it have 70c burst.
Have a question for you.

If the lipo dont deliver enough when i have full trottle, would it be stress for the esc even if the lipo is not hot since i dont race it? Or must the lipo be hot enough first?
Thinking about when i give full trottle for 10 seconds and if it not deliver enough, and battery still have normal temp since i dont race it ?
Could it still stress esc when it not deliver enough even on normal temprature battery?
What could happen if it dont deliver enough for about 10 second on full trottle? Then maby 10-20 second half trottle and then again 10 new second on full trottle?
Is it just to check temprature or have the bad thing happen already when i run full trottle and esc maby dont get enough power?

montymike
07-01-2015, 03:29 PM
Mine did the same, on low c packs that's why say requirements 50c + battery when I put my 60c packs in the boat works fine.

waterproof
07-01-2015, 03:45 PM
Mine did the same, on low c packs that's why say requirements 50c + battery when I put my 60c packs in the boat works fine.

I think you dont understand what i say because i have not tryed it yet :)
Sorry for poor english :)
What lipo did you try and what happen with your first lipo?

montymike
07-01-2015, 03:48 PM
35c Hyperion 2s /2 so 4s

waterproof
07-01-2015, 04:29 PM
Horizon sent me the manual for the esc. I see descrepancys in it with calibration. Also they dont say it can he programmed by transmitter. Weird.....


http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/DYNM3875-manual-MULTI.pdf

Looks like the default timing is 7.5? If not i need a program card

Rafael_Lopez
07-01-2015, 05:44 PM
Looks like the default timing is 7.5? If not i need a program card
The online manual reflects a change to the ESC programing that is not present on the current models. There is nothing wrong with the default timing, but if you are using batteries with less than the recommended C rating, I suggest you lower the timing to 7.5*. Your boat's timing is 15*.

The reason I have made the running change to timing is to allow the system to run without requiring so much amperage. Also, not everyone buys the recommended batteries.

If your batteries do not have the necessary discharge amperage, they will puff rather quickly. CHeck your battery temperature after 1 minute of run time, but less than 2.

barry1me
07-03-2015, 01:21 AM
Is there not a way to program the stock ESC without a programing card? I am used to Tekin/Castle/Orion car stuff where you can program with beeps/light settings.

waterproof
07-03-2015, 10:19 AM
I have read that you could program it with the remote.
Just do like it stands in the manual for hobbywing seaking and you could set it up.
I have not tryed this and i will recomend the proboat led card.

montymike
07-03-2015, 10:31 AM
Programmer card, u know were setup is highly recommended!

waterproof
07-04-2015, 12:17 PM
134053
I realy need to set the timing to 7.5 and see if the Stock Electronic runs cooler.
My local dealer of proboat do not have this in store, and if i order it from another country it could take weeks to get here.
Can anyone comfirm that we could follow the esc program With Remote like the hobbywing seaking?
The manual is in this post, just open the hw15 file.

montymike
07-04-2015, 12:30 PM
Yes I have a seaking it works great. See my earlier post.

waterproof
07-04-2015, 01:24 PM
Yes I have a seaking it works great. See my earlier post.

Yes the hobbywing program card work, but does it work to program it with the Remote to the boat and follow the setup like you could do on a hobbywing with the remote?

montymike
07-05-2015, 09:02 AM
Do not know,Only used program card.to program my boat question for Rafael.

barry1me
07-08-2015, 11:31 PM
hey guys I think my RX SR410 is wiped out...I have only taken the boat out twice but Im pretty sure its bad. Im going to contact my LHS tomorrow to see if they can get this fixed for me. I noticed that the SR410 is water resistant and that is the RX in the BJ v3, but the Miss Geico, and the Impulse v3 both come with the SR310 which is the waterproof and fuel proof marine RX. Also another thing that is kind of odd to me about my BJV3 was the drain plug was very loose in the grommet at the back of the boat. Even the LHS noticed this. They said if I had a problem just let them know...well wouldn't you know it the drain plug came out while out playing the other day. Im sure they can make that issue right also.

On a more important note: Pro boat got $1000 of my money today as I bought a Rockstar 48...this thing is sick. My wife wants to kill me but man is it awesome! I did half a tank tonight to break it in. I want to check what RX comes in that and make sure its the marine grade SR310 not the SR410 like my BJV3.

Rafael_Lopez
07-08-2015, 11:49 PM
Actually, all the DSMR receivers are water resistant. They would need to be potted to be waterproof.

Please contact our Product Support line via telephone. All Spektrum products have a 1 year warranty as long as you have your receipt, from an authorized retailer.

Or, you could use the service request form found on Horizon Hobby. Com and send it in with a copy of your receipt. It's actually pretty simple.

barry1me
07-12-2015, 11:10 PM
Guys what do you recommend for touching up some paint chips on my BJ v3? When I got it new it had two small little spots that were white at the end so I wanted to get this fixed.

waterproof
07-13-2015, 02:27 AM
Guys what do you recommend for touching up some paint chips on my BJ v3? When I got it new it had two small little spots that were white at the end so I wanted to get this fixed.

I also had a few marks on top of the hull where you tapning the hatch out of the box.
Since we tape it for every run i use a good carwax to seal the paint on the hull, then the tape would not damage the hull if you add a wax from time to time.
It also help on small marks.

fatheadracing
08-09-2015, 11:44 PM
Anyone know we're I can get a replacement flex shaft horizon hobbies on backorder tell September?

waterproof
08-10-2015, 09:46 AM
Yes you could buy the flex shaft for miss geico v2.
It is the same shaft, but different number since the bj shaft came with drive dog and nut.
I have both and they have the same size so it fits perfect :-)

fatheadracing
08-10-2015, 03:34 PM
Thanks so I can get the upgrade from kinetic

waterproof
08-14-2015, 05:17 PM
The online manual reflects a change to the ESC programing that is not present on the current models. There is nothing wrong with the default timing, but if you are using batteries with less than the recommended C rating, I suggest you lower the timing to 7.5*. Your boat's timing is 15*.

The reason I have made the running change to timing is to allow the system to run without requiring so much amperage. Also, not everyone buys the recommended batteries.

If your batteries do not have the necessary discharge amperage, they will puff rather quickly. CHeck your battery temperature after 1 minute of run time, but less than 2.

Hello. Its been a time since we talk about timing, have you test the speed on timing 7.5 vs the 15?
I tested it only two times on timing 15 but i dont had a gps when the boat was new.
Lipos have around 100F on 7.5 timing and 120F on 15 timing.

Rafael_Lopez
08-14-2015, 06:30 PM
Speed on 15* was just over 50, with the recommended 50c packs. Temps , as you find out can go up between 20-30*.

Personally on my boat, I run lower timing with an x440/3 and get way faster speeds than with high timing; cooler temps as well compared to high timing. I did this change to a customers boat that I met at the pond and he was amazed by the upgrade in performance, even with his 30c Hobby People packs which he said used to get pretty hot before the timing change.

waterproof
08-15-2015, 06:08 PM
Speed on 15* was just over 50, with the recommended 50c packs. Temps , as you find out can go up between 20-30*.

Personally on my boat, I run lower timing with an x440/3 and get way faster speeds than with high timing; cooler temps as well compared to high timing. I did this change to a customers boat that I met at the pond and he was amazed by the upgrade in performance, even with his 30c Hobby People packs which he said used to get pretty hot before the timing change.

Thanks for the prop tips, never tried a 3 blade prop before, ose is out of stock if i want it sharpen and balanced.
Going to look for this prop and try it out.
But if i only use the stock prop the 15 timing is safe to use or is it a risk to burn the esc on this timing?
Just curious what the gps would tell me if i change the timing to 15 :-)

fatheadracing
08-15-2015, 06:59 PM
I pulled the motor out replaced with a leopard 2200kv with 42-55 prop on smc 3cell 60c packs 7.5 degree timing got 65 mph. Esc 120 degrees and motor 102 degrees.not for just cruising around though lol!

wrjohnson45
09-28-2015, 01:24 PM
[QUOTE=Rafael_Lopez;615744]Hi guys,

I'll chime in here and share some info that might be useful to some of you. This info has come about through development as well as from running my personal boat for fun.


My boat is all stock with the exception of having the bottom of the strut even with the ride pads. Prop is stock, not balanced.
With the stock timing of 15* I got a best of 50.8 mph with our Dynamite Reaction 80C 5700mah 11.1v packs, 6s. The system draws 80 amps continuous at that voltage/speed.
With the timing set to 7.5* the boat ran a best of 45.4 mph with the same packs, but amperage went down to 70 amps continuous, and motor connector temps dropped as well. This option leaves more room to play with props if you want to get back up to 50+, at your own risk.
I have found that depending on your battery weight, CG, and playing with the strut angle, you can minimize the bounce of the boat, for specific water conditions. Sometimes I only get a little bounce as it passes over my it's own ripples. I'm not saying blue printing doesn't work. It's just not the only option.


I am running the 50C 3S Reactions. I found that moving the strut all the way down and moving the batteries to the front of the trays, my boat easily cut through the water and did not catch air and flip. I also advanced the timing. My shaft had a slight bend in it which I eventually noticed while cleaning it and once it was removed, the motor realigned to the shaft, added a couple of degrees advance, the boat rips without dancing like it did fresh from the factory. Engine and ESC heat were very minimal but not measured. Wires were NOT HOT. I noted in one of your later posts one of the forum members took issues with the setup over your comments. My experience is much the same as you posted. While I took on a buoy in a turn at near 40 mph cracked the right front hull, a piece of electrical tape kept me running. I run two sets of bats each time I go out and then call it a day. I have also added some yellow cable ties to the battery straps to keep them from sliding under the trays and also to pull them up to re-thread to make battery changes a little easier. 137514 What I would like to do is add a second water pick up to insure I don't burn up anything while experimenting. I have the GPS meter on order from LHS.

absolut123
12-01-2015, 01:35 AM
i like these boats, but have a ?, are the blackjack and miss geico solid colors with stickers applied? i like the miss geico but would like to have just a plain boat and add my own stickers. is this possible without making a mess?

thanks

JimClark
12-01-2015, 03:06 AM
A hairdryer should loosen them up

i like these boats, but have a ?, are the blackjack and miss geico solid colors with stickers applied? i like the miss geico but would like to have just a plain boat and add my own stickers. is this possible without making a mess?

thanks

absolut123
12-01-2015, 03:24 AM
So the graphics on both of both of these boats r just stickers that can be easily removed? I know on some boats the graphics r under some kind of clear coat.

Thanks

JimClark
12-01-2015, 03:40 AM
I think aquacraft does that. I have a geico and I don't think mine are under clearcoat

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

pistol18
12-11-2015, 10:32 PM
Anybody know which version this is? Black hardware, antenna on port side of boat? I've been searching proboat site, google etc pics and can't seem to find this unicorn.....

Been a long week, thanks!139460

Rafael_Lopez
12-11-2015, 10:47 PM
That's a V3. http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=PRB08011

TheShaughnessy
12-12-2015, 03:33 AM
The square hatch gives it away as a v3 if you want to know what to look for

pistol18
12-12-2015, 11:39 AM
Great, thank you both! The black hardware and different antenna pictures are not the same as the proboat website v3 pics, which is what confused me. I understand subtle changes in the product cycle though.

mt92
12-13-2015, 08:54 AM
I just purchased a Blackjack V3, I am needing advice on the best prop for 4s running. I also would like a prop for 5s. I would also like to hear about any other upgrades that would use the stock motor esc.

ThankS
Mike

JimClark
12-13-2015, 04:02 PM
Ther are volumes of info if yo use the search function

I just purchased a Blackjack V3, I am needing advice on the best prop for 4s running. I also would like a prop for 5s. I would also like to hear about any other upgrades that would use the stock motor esc.

ThankS
Mike

TheShaughnessy
12-13-2015, 09:03 PM
:iagree:

Beaux
01-02-2016, 07:10 PM
man i want one of these blackjacks so bad after reading for days i learned a lot. It sounds like Mr. Lopez is on the ball, got a hell of a product, and sounds like he is paying att. via this forum. I think i will go ahead and order mine thanks a lot.

steve p
01-03-2016, 01:55 PM
i wish you would show me how to go to the 2 rudder and bigger lines,i cant find any video's on HOW TOO

thanks, steve

Beaux
01-03-2016, 06:19 PM
steve, beaux here, OSE has speedmaster dual pick up tapered rudder asm. Vette 00 has installed on his boat. i hav

Beaux
01-04-2016, 12:23 PM
steve, beaux again, looks like airedout 29 has dual pick ups on his black jack ,maybe one line to esc and one line to motor just add another water outlet on the boat . hope this helps, later

Beaux
01-11-2016, 08:29 PM
was it somthing i said?

wrjohnson45
01-19-2016, 07:30 PM
Your videos are very helpful. I would think that an extra smooth coat on top of the putty would allow even more speed? Would increasing the pitch drop the RPM's yet at the same time give greater speed? Wonder if you have tried any of these post videos?

Beaux
01-19-2016, 09:47 PM
i do not have any videos. but i do know a extra smooth or slick surface causes a suction .you need a slight skuff on the bottom to make the water act like ball bearings more or less, 600 grit or so wet or dry sand paper . as far as the prop question, go to prop talk very enlightening . hope this helps.

angrycat
01-21-2016, 01:21 PM
i wish you would show me how to go to the 2 rudder and bigger lines,i cant find any video's on HOW TOO

thanks, steve http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh184/nwv327/IMG_20130610_225925_256_zpsbe65803b.jpg (http://s256.photobucket.com/user/nwv327/media/IMG_20130610_225925_256_zpsbe65803b.jpg.html)http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh184/nwv327/IMG_20130610_185219_891_zpsff4d4446.jpg (http://s256.photobucket.com/user/nwv327/media/IMG_20130610_185219_891_zpsff4d4446.jpg.html)


honestly it was not hard to do, i just purchased a nother bj 29 rudder kit. 2 kintec racing break away brackets. and there was a dual rudder kit for another boat (cant remember) that i purchased the linkage from. the only think that i really had to custom make was the pivot rods that the rudders mount to that fit into the bracket. the ones i ordered were literally just a hare to big so i found some stock that fit it snug and made my own slots

Beaux
01-21-2016, 05:22 PM
man that looks super nice!

angrycat
01-22-2016, 12:18 AM
thanks! sometimes my mods come out somewhat nice haha

cb4life
01-25-2016, 12:44 PM
Good day Guys,

I am new to the forum.

I am just getting back into RC Boats after years of being away from it (when I stopped it didn't have lipos). I bought a Blackjack and I am very impressed (I beat a couple of Spartans with upgraded props and I have done nothing to the blackjack except charged the packs). I will more than likely will be asking a lot of questions in the future.

My first question - Is the factor prop for the blackjack sharpened or balanced?

Second question - what prop would you guys recommend for the stock setup (I was thinking on getting a M440, M442 or X642

Also thinking on getting a 3 blade, but have not decided on one as yet.

Any and all advise would be greatly appreciated.

Rafael_Lopez
01-25-2016, 01:29 PM
Hi cb4life,

Please see my answers below.

Good day Guys,

I am new to the forum.

I am just getting back into RC Boats after years of being away from it (when I stopped it didn't have lipos). I bought a Blackjack and I am very impressed (I beat a couple of Spartans with upgraded props and I have done nothing to the blackjack except charged the packs). I will more than likely will be asking a lot of questions in the future.

My first question - Is the factor prop for the blackjack sharpened or balanced? -No. I recommend that you sharpen and balance if you want optimal performance.

Second question - what prop would you guys recommend for the stock setup (I was thinking on getting a M440, M442 or X642-Any of the 42mm props will be an improvement over the stock prop because of the larger diameter. Stock prop is a few tenth of a mm over 40mm

Also thinking on getting a 3 blade, but have not decided on one as yet.-Depending on when and where you got your boat from, you may have a boat that has the ESC with lower timing already programmed from the factory. I made this change, as a running change. The tell all to this is, if your ESC has short wires, then it has lower timing. I had them make both changes (short wires and lower timing) at the same time to know which ESCs had lower timing as well as to remove excess resistance; shorter wires. So, if your ESC does have shorter wires, the lower timing allows room to run a X440/3 blade prop, as long as you use quality batteries. I've personally tested this prop with the recommended 50C Dynamite batteries and consider it a great upgrade.

Any and all advise would be greatly appreciated.

Beaux
01-25-2016, 02:28 PM
thanks Rafael, i will order mine in mar. i do think your involvement in this is great. i am sure it gives everyone a better peace of mind. i would hope so anyway.

cb4life
01-25-2016, 04:27 PM
Thanks Rafael, that information is very helpful and I will get the suggested props.

It does have shorter wires and it is timed at 7.5 (I checked it on the program card) and I do use the recommended 50C Dynamite batteries (I got everything from Horizon Hobby).

One more question, I would like to get the stock prop sharpened and balanced, I live in the Virgin Islands and don't have a local hobby shop, everything has to be ordered and shipped. Where would you suggest I send this prop to be sharpened and balanced.

Rafael_Lopez
01-25-2016, 04:38 PM
There are a few people on this forum that offer propeller service. I would suggest to look over propeller section or someone might jump in here and recommend someone.

cb4life
01-25-2016, 04:46 PM
There are a few people on this forum that offer propeller service. I would suggest to look over propeller section or someone might jump in here and recommend someone.

Once again, Thanks, I will do that.

wrjohnson45
02-19-2016, 10:04 PM
Yes, Thanks for the tip.