miss geico project help

[Chris Nason]

ok so here is what I have so far
ESC. 180a seaking
MOTOR. 1515 2200kv
need help with battery choice and where to start with prop. right now the only prop I have is an octura X440 plan on using 2 3-cell just dont know what works well in boats and also any other things I might need to know about this boat I am building would be great as this is my first shot at boats 121873

[revoltrunner]

2s or 3s is not enough rpm. go with 4s.
put a 2s pack on each side of the boat.
a octura x642 would work well on it.
at least 5000mah , 40c on the batteries.

[TheShaughnessy]

That motor can draw some power. Should be capable of 60 + mph if you can keep it on the water. Hope it has been reinforced or you will have boat bits sooner then later. Make sure you don't skimp on batteries.

[Chris Nason]

was planing on running 2 3s for total of 6s just was wondering what brand was working well for others... as far as reinforcement to the hull what needs to be done? and if that motor is to much what are some other options just happened to have the 1515 laying around seemed like a good candidate for some real speed

[Make-a-Wake]

I would not run that motor on 6s. 4s is plenty enough power to get that hull screamin'. With the speeds you will attain I would CF/glass the hull and canopy. With that stout motor and large ESC you should be able to spin an x645 and get near 60 mph. Get two 2s 5000-6500 mah 40c lipos to run in series. You may want 4 to have two runs each time out.:Peace_Sign:

[Chris Nason]

ok so cf the inside I found lots of good info and that is the rout I will go.. but the thing I cant find is how far up into the bow you have to go??? looks very hard to get into that tight space I would have to assume that you just run it up as far as you can and call it good looks like the bow is hardly ever in contact with the water anyway. is 40c real enough I like the idea of just getting a set of 2s packs or even four of them and still be able to get a good top speed like that.. also does the stock motor mou

[Make-a-Wake]

I think the end of your post meant to ask if the stock motor mount will accept the leaopard, yes it will.

[srislash]

Run cf up as far as you can. If you can get some FG tape on the seams up front pushing them in with a stick and epoxy. Look up my Little Miss G twin (geico). I put a deck support in mine. It really firms it up while not being to heavy. These are merely suggestions.

[Chris Nason]

yes that is what I was trying to ask about the motor mount but also do I need to add a support? or will it hold up the way it is...

[Make-a-Wake]

The 4082 is about an inch longer than your stock motor, You can fashion some kind of support for the rear, aluminum stock, wood block etc.......................

You decide on a setup yet?

[Chris Nason]

ya I think kinda leaning towards the spc 6500mAh, 65C, 2S just a pair for now... gona defiantly do the cf inlay might have do get both x642 and a x645 I have a real nice hitec servo that im trying to figure out how to water proof it's a high speed high torque out of a rock crawler build I did and sold that stuff is way to slow for my taste

[Chris Nason]

is that 4082 a leopard motor? the 1515 2200kv I have is a castle but when I ordered the esc I was able to get a cooling jacket for it I would assume that they are close to the same spec's I have not compared but I might have to check it out I set it next to the stock can and it is only like you said 1 1/2 bigger i could probably fab a brace out of the left over cf and some wood just so it looks nice right

[Make-a-Wake]

My bad, I forgot you had a Castle 1515. I had suggested a 4082 Leopard in another thread and got confused. Your motor(40 x 74mm) is about 3/4" longer than the stock motor and may not need a support brace, although, it always helps and if you make a wood/cf it would look nice too.

[Chris Nason]

I ended up just striping all the wood out and will be using aftermarket parts for motor and servo mount now just seem like the right way to go didnt like the wood

[ray schrauwen]

Good move :thumbup1:


I ended up just striping all the wood out and will be using aftermarket parts for motor and servo mount now just seem like the right way to go didnt like the wood

[Chris Nason]

Its all done123019. 123020

[Chrissharp]

Nice looking rebuild. My couple suggestions would be to buy a fiberglass hatch or make sure you reinforce the plastic ones they break easy. I am running the same motor and esc in mine and I have found that anything over mid 50's is ready to fly so watch out. I have found that 4s with a 642 prop can typically push the boat to a fun level without flight. On 5s or 6s it's a rocket but using the power on tap is difficult. I have ran as large as a 1816/3 on 4s to get 57 mph but never could get above 3/4 throttle out of the prop as the hull design creates a lot of lift. A lot of people add weight to the front with pour in foam, one of my 2 boats has this and it has helped me from airing out and crashing on smooth water but on choppy water it is a disaster as the boat wants to nose dive. I am actually gonna try to install a bladder up front on the second boat and see if I can add or subtract water depending on the conditions. Best of luck to you and once again nice job.

[Chris Nason]

Thanks this is my first attempt at a boat.. I did the inlay on the hatch as well. went out over the weekend and ran it with an x440 defiantly not enough prop I have a x645 and only plan on running on 4s I think after the research I did this should work fairly well but we will see I might just have to pick up the x642 as well to tame it I will probably end up moving on to a twin prop design hull after I play with this for awhile it's kind of a learning platform of sorts I guess