The NEW Proboat motor and ESC?

[RayR]

Interesting stuff on the Dynamite RC site. New marine motors and 120A ESC with 5.5mm motor bullets and EC5 connectors.

[kendt]

Holy crap.150.00us for a 120a esc,A bit spendy if u ask me. A hobbywing 120 can be had for less than half that and they are great.

[ron1950]

now to get them listed in spec motor section of namba rule book lol

[revoltrunner]

since the motor is available in a rtr , would that not
be covered under the spec rule now ?

[ray schrauwen]

Take it back, it's a 6 pole motor but, the esc????

[Peter A]

No pic of esc, guessing it's a water cooled car esc. Seems to be the trend. Is the motor a re branded castle or leo.?

[ray schrauwen]

Motor is neither since it is 6 poles but, may come from a Castle or Leo factory. Speculation at this time. ESC is most likely a HobbyWing Seaking type since the Black Jack 24 uses a Seaking 30 amp esc., again speculation or extrapolation on my part from what I've seen so far...

[Darin Jordan]

Motor is neither since it is 6 poles but, may come from a Castle or Leo factory. Speculation at this time. ESC is most likely a HobbyWing Seaking type since the Black Jack 24 uses a Seaking 30 amp esc., again speculation or extrapolation on my part from what I've seen so far...

All of the P-LTD motors are 6-Pole motors... The new 2000-KV is as well... AND, it's a TRUE 2000KV... not 1865-1875 that the "2030" AQ is, so you have to TREAT it like it's a 2000KV motor. It doesn't like the same props as the AQ, is what I'm trying to say here.


The ESC is very similar to the Dynamite Buggy ESCs, as shown here, but with water cooling and I believe at least a 6S capability. Very smooth, big wires, programmable, water-"proof", etc... Hopefully they will get a picture of the real thing up soon, but this Buggy ESC at least gives you an idea of the form-factor for this new ESC.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/cars-and-trucks/car-and-truck-parts/ecx-parts/fuze-130a-sensorless-bl-waterproof-esc%3A-4wd-sct-1-8-dyn4955

http://s7d5.scene7.com/is/image/horizonhobby/DYN4955_a0?wid=1400&hei=778

[Darin Jordan]

since the motor is available in a rtr , would that not
be covered under the spec rule now ?

Unless you guys have seen Pro Boat announce something in the past 20-minutes, I don't think this motor actually comes in anything yet.

I suspect that it will...

[montymike]

Wow bigger esc + bigger motor = bigger more stable cat..blackjack perhaps wish wish wish...
.

[montymike]

Oh fiberglass hatch to wish..

[Darin Jordan]

Wow bigger esc + bigger motor = bigger more stable cat..blackjack perhaps wish wish wish...
.

It's NOT a bigger motor... it's a standard 36-56 sized motor, same as the current PB and AQ P-LTD motors...

As for the rest of it... we'll just have so wait and see...

[Darin Jordan]

Oh fiberglass hatch to wish..

Just keep in mind that all that additional "stout-ness" comes at a weight penalty... especially in a RTR (re: Low-Cost Chinese Fiberglass layup)...

[ron1950]

this ought to be a good motor as soon as pb puts it in a hull and all that stuff...thanks for the info...any idear how it compares to the dynamite 1500 I put in my 10th scales? more torque might roll it over on the start lol

[revoltrunner]

Unless you guys have seen Pro Boat announce something in the past 20-minutes, I don't think this motor actually comes in anything yet.

I suspect that it will...

Darin , I thought it was the motor in the new shockwave 26.

[TheShaughnessy]

Shock wave is a 3s boat and has a motor kv appropriate for that voltage

[TheShaughnessy]

All of the P-LTD motors are 6-Pole motors... The new 2000-KV is as well... AND, it's a TRUE 2000KV... not 1865-1875 that the "2030" AQ is, so you have to TREAT it like it's a 2000KV motor. It doesn't like the same props as the AQ, is what I'm trying to say here.




]

If you read this again, ray is saying the motor isn't a castle or leopard because if it was it would be a 4pole motor. Because it is 6 pole we can deduce that it is not a leopard or castle motor.

[Darin Jordan]

Darin , I thought it was the motor in the new shockwave 26.

Shockwave 26 Motor: 3650 4 Pole Brushless Marine Motor 2000kv [DYNM3900]
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYNM3900
http://www.dynamiterc.com/ProdInfo/DYN/450/DYNM3900-450.jpg

Topic Motor of this thread: 3660 6 Pole Brushless Marine Motor 2000kv (DYNM3910]
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYNM3910
http://www.dynamiterc.com/ProdInfo/DYN/450/DYNM3910-450.jpg

[ray schrauwen]

I was playing guessing games until Darin came out with the real info. I do that with new products and I'm right sometimes and wrong sometimes too.

The ESC in the BJ24 is a Seaking 30 though as you can see in this picture.

I wonder if they will come out with a BJ34... that would be a cool thing :drool: All great stuff from PB.

Thanks Darin!

This is from PB's website, it's the same as the Seaking 30 I have here....

[kfxguy]

Shockwave 26 Motor: 3650 4 Pole Brushless Marine Motor 2000kv [DYNM3900]
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYNM3900
http://www.dynamiterc.com/ProdInfo/DYN/450/DYNM3900-450.jpg

Topic Motor of this thread: 3660 6 Pole Brushless Marine Motor 2000kv (DYNM3910]
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYNM3910
http://www.dynamiterc.com/ProdInfo/DYN/450/DYNM3910-450.jpg

Holy smokes! That second motor is rated for up to 6s!

[montymike]

Sorry ,got a glass hatch for my mystic was starting a collection
Of cracked ones... That 3660 2000 kv would make it run good. Wonder if it is a wey or delta wind
Had the same question with my proboat motor but tecs.at horizon could not
Answer that, they said they did not have that info.

[T.S.Davis]

Well, if the 3660 ends up in the Blackjack that should be just the type of grenade to the spec I expected. 61mm is over the 5% tolerance but being mass produced would force NAMBA to consider it........... I guess.

So Horizon is still hooked up with Dynamite but Proboat isn't? Weird. Has the left hand ever met the right hand? haha

I like the way the wires are secured coming out of the can. Should cut down on mechanical failure. Although, the only way I've been able to harm the 1800's I have is with a huge prop.

[Doby]

If its not gold, then it won't be approved:w00t:

[Darin Jordan]

I don't think it's actually 60mm... the title on the Horizon site says "3650"...

I'll try to remember to double-check when I get home. I have a couple of them already.

But, by all means, go into a total speculative panic with a minimal amount of information. Makes the day more interesting... :popcorn2:

[Darin Jordan]

Well, if the 3660 ends up in the Blackjack that should be just the type of grenade to the spec I expected. 61mm is over the 5% tolerance but being mass produced would force NAMBA to consider it........... I guess.

I don't know or really care what NAMBA is or isn't going to do with this. It's out of my control, and I have more interesting and fun things to concern myself with at the moment.

I believe that the can is 56mm, but the thickness of the end-bells make it 60.6mm overall length. As you can see from the picture, the end-bells are about 3mm thick each end. If you take it apart, (I have), you'll find that the internals are similar to the other approved motors, dimensionally speaking. The extra can length is being used for the joints of the real wire attaching to the windings, just like they do in the car motors.

But, specs are specs... And the competitive advantage of that extra thickness at the end-bells is certainly a reason NOT to approve it... right? (tongue firmly in cheek!)

Oh, and it's not gold... :tt2:

[montymike]

My thinking was on a 4s setup,

[montymike]

So wye or delta?

[T.S.Davis]

But, by all means, go into a total speculative panic with a minimal amount of information. Makes the day more interesting... :popcorn2:

Sorry Darin. All I had to go on was the data sheet you posted that showed the OA length at 61mm. However, it doesn't really matter what the length is. I keep forgetting that. It can be 100mm. What it can't be is 5% more of
"Kv, maximum constant amperage rating, mass, and MSRP." 4 things. Some of which were never available on the some of the original motors listed so not sure how enforceable it ever was. Turns out size doesn't matter............:blink::blink::blink:

As for approval. Any CD can approve it at any given event. Getting it added to the "official" list is a different animal.

[Darin Jordan]

Sorry Darin. All I had to go on was the data sheet you posted that showed the OA length at 61mm. However, it doesn't really matter what the length is. I keep forgetting that. It can be 100mm. What it can't be is 5% more of
"Kv, maximum constant amperage rating, mass, and MSRP." 4 things. Some of which were never available on the some of the original motors listed so not sure how enforceable it ever was. Turns out size doesn't matter............:blink::blink::blink:

As for approval. Any CD can approve it at any given event. Getting it added to the "official" list is a different animal.

I was just playin' with you, Terry my friend! No worries...

Like I said... I'm not going to concern myself with the specs, the rules, what is and isn't approved, etc... at this point. I had no say in this motor design, replacement, or anything else, for that matter. I DID test a couple of them, but that's it. What happens from this point is out of my hands.

If they come in a RTR designed around a 4S system, then should they be an approved motor? Perhaps. They shouldn't receive any more consideration, however, than ANY other RTR motor package out there. The rules are the rules and, to the extent that they can be taken, they should be followed, or changed. Ignoring them shouldn't be on the option list.

Now... if there is gray, then we (NAMBA), have an issue that needs to be worked out.

Either way, I'm not going to stress over it. I'd like to see this thing keep going, but don't want to get all bunched up over it.

[montymike]

6s:flashfire::noidea:?

[Darin Jordan]

6s:flashfire::noidea:?

I'm not sure why you are hung up on the "rated" voltage... Neu's, Castle's, etc., are all rated MUCH higher than most sensible boaters would ever run one...

Personally, I choose to use my own foundation in boating information to decide just how hard I'm willing to push a motor. Relying on "marketing" and "manufacturers specs" is likely to get you in trouble... or at least smelly and in need of some Scotch-Bright pads and some denatured alcohol...

[T.S.Davis]

Now... if there is gray, then we (NAMBA), have an issue that needs to be worked out.

Either way, I'm not going to stress over it. I'd like to see this thing keep going, but don't want to get all bunched up over it.

haha Yeah, I do enough stressing for both of us. There isn't exactly a gray area. It's more of a "we didn't do enough homework" problem. Hind sight of course. Some of the 4 parameters that new offerings should be trying to match can't be had on the motors that are on the list. So compliance/conformance is difficult. It's going to come down to someone trying to to very deliberate NOT screw up the class.

Back on track. I gotta ask. I thought Proboat and as a result Horizon or vice versa were dumping Dynamite? Are they getting back on line with them?

Those last 1800 motors that they were turning out were fantastic. I put one on a gear drive over the weekend. Awesome. Are you thinking these will be similar?

[kfxguy]

6s:flashfire::noidea:?

I run a 1860kv motor on 7s...on the regular and it lives just fine. Yes i do more than run it for a couple seconds too.

[montymike]

:sarcasm1::wink::iagree:

[ray schrauwen]

Open rear plate and look for solder joints if none it is a "D" wind if there is a joint in the windings it's a "Y" wind.


Sorry ,got a glass hatch for my mystic was starting a collection
Of cracked ones... That 3660 2000 kv would make it run good. Wonder if it is a wey or delta wind
Had the same question with my proboat motor but tecs.at horizon could not
Answer that, they said they did not have that info.

[Darin Jordan]

I thought Proboat and as a result Horizon or vice versa were dumping Dynamite?

Dynamite and Pro Boat are both Horizon Hobby entities. It's all the same big company, just different divisions. Pro Boat isn't "dumping" Dynamite. Dynamite is simple changing who they are sourcing their motors from.




Those last 1800 motors that they were turning out were fantastic. I put one on a gear drive over the weekend. Awesome. Are you thinking these will be similar?

No... I don't think so. These are distinctly different. I can't say yet how they compare. Not enough time on them yet. I can say that the ones I've tested are all in the 1980KV area.. so truly "2000-KV"... Every AQ2030 I've tested was under 1900... in the 1860-1880 range.

As a result, you need to TREAT these like they are a 2000KV motor. Prop selection will need some rethinking.

I took a few pictures for you guys to mull over. Motor on the right is the latest of the Dynamite/Pro Boat 1800's... As you can see from the dimensions, the new motors are slightly longer, but a tad less overall diameter.

[Darin Jordan]

Open rear plate and look for solder joints if none it is a "D" wind if there is a joint in the windings it's a "Y" wind.

There are going to be solder joints regardless.... The windings are soldered to the heavy-wire leads that exit the endbell. They no-longer run the windings out the end.

[T.S.Davis]

There are going to be solder joints regardless.... The windings are soldered to the heavy-wire leads that exit the endbell. They no-longer run the windings out the end.

Flexible leads. Like it.

Is there anyway to spray air through them after a dunk? Looks totally sealed up.

How is the weight? No holes anywhere I would think heavier than necessary.

[Darin Jordan]

Flexible leads. Like it.

Is there anyway to spray air through them after a dunk? Looks totally sealed up.

How is the weight? No holes anywhere I would think heavier than necessary.

I haven't weighed it. No holes. Water can definitely get trapped inside. I have one I took apart from a test platform they sent me and there was rust forming inside (they had been running it around quite a bit)...

the "trapping water" thing is definitely a concern for OPC... BUT, that's only an issue if the motor were actually legal, which, I would have to say at this point it's probably not??? Time will tell I guess...

[montymike]

When rewound electrical motors several years ago for a motor rewind shop
That was how it was done the windings were assembled and solderd together. Now it appears that the wires are all one single strand. And a y wind y is identifiable from a d I ask this because what setting on esc. If u use another brand other then proboat or dynamite thanks mike

[Darin Jordan]

When rewound electrical motors several years ago for a motor rewind shop
That was how it was done the windings were assembled and solderd together. Now it appears that the wires are all one single strand. And a y wind y is identifiable from a d I ask this because what setting on esc. If u use another brand other then proboat or dynamite thanks mike

I've inquired, but haven't heard back yet. If I find out, I'll post it here.

I do have one of these motors torn down. I'll try to get a picture of the inside view to post. I think we could tell by looking at that.

[montymike]

Thanks... Mike

[ray schrauwen]

Sorry, I was not more specific. I just thought most people that open up a sealed motor like this with silicon leads out the back or top already knows those wires are soldered onto the enameled windings. It's the Solder joint on the windings to terminate any Y wind motor as compared to a D wind that has no EXTRA soldering of windings.
I thought most people had figured this out already.

Imo the front plate looks like an unfinished TP Power motor.... begging to be drilled out...:Peace_Sign:


There are going to be solder joints regardless.... The windings are soldered to the heavy-wire leads that exit the endbell. They no-longer run the windings out the end.

Example: I have opened up a 1515 1Y Neu and even though the old ones have the windings come out the back, inside to make the motor a Y wind the windings have to be soldered inside the can before the main wires come out the back so, there is an extra solder joint inside. The same is true for the car style Leopards that look like this or a Castle 1515 1Y that have the silicone leads out the side. the silicone covered wire is soldered to the windings on the inside BUT, being Y winds there is an extra joint to terminate the motor to make it a Y wind, where D winds this is not required, all winding strands for a D wind come neatly together after the wind, hence the reason why TP Power and Leo originally made 90% D winds because the lower cost to manufacture.

Clear as mud right? :laugh:

[TheShaughnessy]

I will have to assume (make ass out of self) that if this motor is approved for spec racing it would be illegal to drill out the plates. Motor must be run as supplied from manufacturer aside from water cooling and connectors.

[kfxguy]

I must say, this motor looks like its built much better than the older version. I'm impressed. Now if i could just get my hands on a new shockwave soon, I'll be happy! I cant wait till it comes out! This will entertain me in the smaller bodies of water I run in.

[Darin Jordan]

2-Turn (2T) Delta wind...

[montymike]

:thumbup1:Thanks darin..mike

[ron1950]

ok got to ask,,,,,what size connectors come on this new motor? I just finished soldering 3 of ther last batch of 1500's and a 1800 and now have to order another batch of 5.5's got a ton of female ends though lol

[Darin Jordan]

ok got to ask,,,,,what size connectors come on this new motor? I just finished soldering 3 of ther last batch of 1500's and a 1800 and now have to order another batch of 5.5's got a ton of female ends though lol

Standard 5.5s... which is a great thing.

[ron1950]

darn now I probably have to buy one

[Darin Jordan]

darn now I probably have to buy one

The price seems right... (part of the reason for the manufacturer change)

Just PLEASE understand... you have to TREAT these like a REAL 2000KV motor... People used to treating a "2030KV" motor as if it has the torque of a 1860KV motor, which is what has been going on to this point, are going to be disappointed if they try to treat this motor the same way. It's REALLY 1980KV.... so you need to prop it accordingly.

If you are used to running a 42x55 with some pitch-up, you might want to back down to a 40mm prop and work from there... maybe even 38mm...

[TheShaughnessy]

Have you had a chance to run gps with the new motor and prop combo? if so have the results been comparable to previous generation motors?

[Darin Jordan]

Received a package last night....

[revoltrunner]

Must be nice....LOL

[properchopper]

I know that you know what I'm thinking re the Nov. soiree :wink:

[Darin Jordan]

I know that you know what I'm thinking re the Nov. soiree :wink:

Hahhaa... Nope... Not "approved"...

[kfxguy]

Received a package last night....

I know your gonna run them a few times for testing.....so....hit me up when you wanna sell that esc...lol

[properchopper]

Hahhaa... Nope... Not "approved"...


Yeah but I'm running exact numbers with the 2030 over and over. During a lull a trial run with the PB could yield some interesting unapproved "food for future thought"

[Darin Jordan]

I know your gonna run them a few times for testing.....so....hit me up when you wanna sell that esc...lol

I've already tested these and I can tell you that people are going to LIKE these ESCs... very smooth, reverse, big wires, actually ADVERTISED as being "waterproof", etc.

A little different form-factor, but definitely adaptable.

I approve... :)

[Peter A]

Was at lhs today and they had a kyosho 900ve hurricane. The pic on the box of motor and esc looked same as these new pb ones just different color.

[TheShaughnessy]

This motor is now offered in the v3 blackjack 29. I currently have one in my possession and am curious if its going to be a legal motor for 2015. The bullets are nice quality, good fit with my current 5.5 which are the am500 (something like that.) Hk variety or the venom 5.5. Comes with water jacket, competitive pricing.

[Brushless55]

This motor is now offered in the v3 blackjack 29. I currently have one in my possession and am curious if its going to be a legal motor for 2015. The bullets are nice quality, good fit with my current 5.5 which are the am500 (something like that.) Hk variety or the venom 5.5. Comes with water jacket, competitive pricing.

me to :confused2:

[TheShaughnessy]

Seems like no one wants to touch this. Looks like it may break the 5% clause ? It is offered in an rtr hull where over 100 units will be produced though. Up to the CD? I'll just run it and wait for the protest.

[montymike]

This boat with the Bj29v3 with its upgraded hull and hardware is heavier then the V1 hull so I suspect though I have not ran it yet got it in Dec.could use the boost. The extra of will give it.

[T.S.Davis]

Seems like no one wants to touch this.

Cuz nobody knows I suspect.

[Darin Jordan]

Cuz nobody knows I suspect.

iii) In addition, the CD has the discretion to allow the following:

(a) An aftermarket motor that is a re-labeled and exact copy of any
approved motor.
(b) Any generational change of an approved motor, or a motor that
is used in a Ready To Run (RTR) offering from a manufacturer
that produces over 100 units of said offering, as long as there is
no more than a 5% increase in any of the following
manufacturers specifications as compared to any single
approved motor: Kv, maximum constant amperage rating,
mass, and MSRP.
(c) The race flyer shall list additional allowed motors for the event


By my reading of the rules, if the motor isn't on the "approved" list of motors, then it must meet A, B, OR C...

The new Dynamite motors in the Pro Boat RTRs are new, and clearly don't meet "A".

The new Dynamite motors in the Pro Boat RTRs are also 61mm long, which exceeds the 5% rule for length, so they also don't meet "B".

Now, while I believe the INTENT was for "C" to be more of a "note" in regards to A and B, it READs as the third bullet; A third criteria to consider for allowance. As such, the CD of whatever "event" you are running must print a flyer identifying any additional motor allowances.

So, if your club has an upcoming race, and in the announcement (E-mail, etc.) for the race lists the additional motor allowances, then you would be allowed to run these, per the NAMBA rules as they are written.

[T.S.Davis]

That sounds right Darin.

C should have read "if a motor is allowed in accordance with a. or b. it shall be indicated on the race flyer" or something to that effect.

50% of the motors on the current list aren't available any more. There really are no provisions for how to be added to the "list". Just how to handle a generation change or a clone like the Himax.

Wonder if Dave has 2 pennies on this.

[Brushless55]

iii) In addition, the CD has the discretion to allow the following:

(a) An aftermarket motor that is a re-labeled and exact copy of any
approved motor.
(b) Any generational change of an approved motor, or a motor that
is used in a Ready To Run (RTR) offering from a manufacturer
that produces over 100 units of said offering, as long as there is
no more than a 5% increase in any of the following
manufacturers specifications as compared to any single
approved motor: Kv, maximum constant amperage rating,
mass, and MSRP.
(c) The race flyer shall list additional allowed motors for the event


By my reading of the rules, if the motor isn't on the "approved" list of motors, then it must meet A, B, OR C...

The new Dynamite motors in the Pro Boat RTRs are new, and clearly don't meet "A".

The new Dynamite motors in the Pro Boat RTRs are also 61mm long, which exceeds the 5% rule for length, so they also don't meet "B".

Now, while I believe the INTENT was for "C" to be more of a "note" in regards to A and B, it READs as the third bullet; A third criteria to consider for allowance. As such, the CD of whatever "event" you are running must print a flyer identifying any additional motor allowances.

So, if your club has an upcoming race, and in the announcement (E-mail, etc.) for the race lists the additional motor allowances, then you would be allowed to run these, per the NAMBA rules as they are written.

I bet we in NAMBA20 would allow these new motors...

[T.S.Davis]

We probably will too. Just a prediction though.

Motivation will be the "buy it race it angle".

[Darin Jordan]

PSFEMBC (NAMBA D8) has already voted to allow them.

I abstained from that vote, by the way. ;)

[TheShaughnessy]

I guess Ill put it in a boat before I worry about it

[Darin Jordan]

Do NOT prop it like a "2030".... those are NOT 2000kv... the Dynamite is. You'll want to prop accordingly.

[TheShaughnessy]

I'll keep that in mind. I'll start with a 40x53. Can always use it for the jet boat build,

[Brushless55]

Do NOT prop it like a "2030".... those are NOT 2000kv... the Dynamite is. You'll want to prop accordingly.


so this PB motor has "maybe" 7 to 8% more rpms vs the AQ2030
and my AQ2030 powered
PSpec Mono runs 95-100* after a 6 lap heat
PSpec OPC runs 90-95* after a 6 lap heat
PSpec Rigger runs 110-115* after a 6 lap heat
LSH runs 105-110* after a 6 lap heat

that this new PB motor cannot swing those current props without heating up to burn notice ??
I would think that a new motor design would be more powerful with a little more rpms :confused2:

[Darin Jordan]

Who said anything about a "new motor design"?

It's just another rebranded motor that Dynamite decided would suit their RTR needs, being supplied by the lowest bidder.

You go up in KV, you generally lose torque, given the same basic physical size, so you prop down a bit and get your speed from prop speed rather than pitch. Pretty healthy difference in overall RPM between 1865kv and 2000kv on 4S.

[Brushless55]

Who said anything about a "new motor design"?

It's just another rebranded motor that Dynamite decided would suit their RTR needs, being supplied by the lowest bidder.

You go up in KV, you generally lose torque, given the same basic physical size, so you prop down a bit and get your speed from prop speed rather than pitch. Pretty healthy difference in overall RPM between 1865kv and 2000kv on 4S.

IMO it's only healthy if you can use the same props otherwise you need to prop down and only maybe get to the original speeds of the AQ2030 setups being its only maybe 7% faster in kv with less torque
in other words, if I cannot utilize the little bit of extra rpms then I don't think it would be a healthy difference

is this the same motor as in the Kyosho boat ?

think I will hold off and see how others do with this motor before ruling on it for NAMBA20 :biggrin:

[Doug Smock]

:laugh:

[TheShaughnessy]

Healthy meaning significant? Some boats run better with smaller props

[Brushless55]

Healthy meaning significant? Some boats run better with smaller props

Not my setups if I have to prop down :wink:... with the AQ2030 I could prop up but that is not needed because they run so well now

[TheShaughnessy]

I would say don't get this motor then. I wanted to check it out, got a good deal, had to have it. I dont mind be a test dummy at times.

[Brushless55]

I would say don't get this motor then. I wanted to check it out, got a good deal, had to have it. I dont mind be a test dummy at times.

Let us know how things go Michael :biggrin:
I don't see any reason I couldn't use the same props on my boats now and just swap out the AQ2030 with this PB2k

[montymike]

First instinct is to prop up, so go to a 40-38 on my boat do I go 2 mm on strut from flat to make up for smaller prop size? On my new
Bj. 29

[Fluid]

...I don't see any reason I couldn't use the same props on my boats now and just swap out the AQ2030 with this PB2kReally? How about less torque to swing the same prop? When the FE30 first came out several of us tried different motors to see which worked best. We could not get the speeds we wanted with the 1800 motors even with large props. We put in the 2030 motors, propped down and went 2-4 mph faster.....




.

[Darin Jordan]

Let us know how things go Michael :biggrin:
I don't see any reason I couldn't use the same props on my boats now and just swap out the AQ2030 with this PB2k

With all due respect, you are making comments as if you don't truly understand how electric motors actually work. I've followed your previous conversations so I think I know better than that. Not sure where the disconnect here is coming from?

I'll say it again... The AQ "2030" is NOT a 2030KV motor... it's 1865 at best. I recall some of the original ones testing to 1930KV, but I've NEVER seen one test over that... EVER, and I've tested a LOT of them. ALL of the recent ones I've tested are in the 1865KV range.

You have ONLY been able to get away with running the ridiculous sized props that people seem to run with these (X447, etc) BECAUSE these ARE NOT 2000KV motors! You are propping for a motor significantly less than that.

If you don't think it's significant, do some math:

1865KV * 14.8 = 27602
2000KV * 14.8 = 29600

That's 1998 MORE RPM...

Seriously trying to suggest that a prop change isn't in order??

I really, REALLY, don't think many of you put enough emphasis on just HOW important that little wheel on the back of the boat really is. NOT just in speed, but in exit speeds, cornering speeds, HANDLING, etc.

[T.S.Davis]

We all know that with the 2030, heat is the devil.

Are these about the same? Can they handle more/less heat? Does anyone really know?

[Fluid]

FWIW, using motor temperature to determine a safe amp draw has little value without context. Last summer, with ambient temps in the low 100s and water temps around 90*F, my motors (Limited and Open) would come back after 6 laps around 130*F. No problem, this is well below the point of motor damage. A couple weeks ago, with both ambient and water temps in the 50s, the same boats had motor temps below 95*F after six laps. No changes other than the date. A setup which is fine in the winter or in colder climates may burn up on a hot summer day on a warm pond. Too, the time between hitting the beach and measuring the temps matters. The ESC in particular can cool off quickly, after five minutes it can be 50* cooler than immediately after shutting down.



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[Brushless55]

so this PB motor has "maybe" 7 to 8% more rpms vs the AQ2030
and my AQ2030 powered
PSpec Mono runs 95-100* after a 6 lap heat
PSpec OPC runs 90-95* after a 6 lap heat
PSpec Rigger runs 110-115* after a 6 lap heat
LSH runs 105-110* after a 6 lap heat

that this new PB motor cannot swing those current props without heating up to burn notice ??
I would think that a new motor design (or relabeled) would be more powerful with a little more rpms :confused2:


We all know that with the 2030, heat is the devil.

Are these about the same? Can they handle more/less heat? Does anyone really know?

That's my point all together :thumbup1:
I'm the one who brought FE to District 20 and we are always looking for new things :spy:
and as you can see from my setups and if you see them run you would understand I know what I'm doing :thumbup1:
I just cannot drive worth a damn :doh:

at best the PB2K motor is only 7% faster in rpms and if it cannot swing my setups now without burning up, then ..... ....... .......

[montymike]

So Darin , on bj. 29 v3 stock prop and smaller ?

[Darin Jordan]

So Darin , on bj. 29 v3 stock prop and smaller ?

No... the boat was horribly under-propped with the 1800KV motor... That's why you could run a BJ29 around until battery cutoff, in stock trim on 4S, without burning things up. Exactly the way a RTR should be. :)

[Darin Jordan]

at best the PB2K motor is only 7% faster in rpms and if it cannot swing my setups now without burning up, then ..... ....... .......

Whatever you say...

[montymike]

No Darin the new boat with the 2000kv what props and were strut set?

[bayrackobama]

Anyone know if this would be a good esc upgrade for the stock esc on the impulse v2? I want to run 6s on my boat with stock prop.

[Darin Jordan]

No Darin the new boat with the 2000kv what props and were strut set?

OOpps... sorry... didn't read carefully enough.

I actually haven't played with this boat much. Just a couple of runs at the Pro Boat headquarters last fall.

I tinkered with their boat a bit and would just set the strut like all the others: Boat flat on a table, loosen the strut, put a 1/16" shim under it, and push it down flat against the shim and tighten. That seems to be a good place to start.

The stock prop is essentially just a Prather 215. If you have a PREPPED version of that, use it to start. You'll realize about a 3mph increase over the stock one.

If I recall correctly, a 440/3 was fun on 6S.

[montymike]

:cool:Thanks Darin , will try that. For the record I run a 2030 and a Prather 220 on my mystic 29.

[Darin Jordan]

:cool:Thanks Darin , will try that. For the record I run a 2030 and a Prather 220 on my mystic 29.

Just as a point of reference, testing showed that the new V3 hull (it IS considerably different, just in subtle ways), is about 1.5mph faster out of the box than the V2 version, all else being equal. It's simply turning the same prop faster...

[Mr_3_0_5]

OOpps... sorry... didn't read carefully enough.

I actually haven't played with this boat much. Just a couple of runs at the Pro Boat headquarters last fall.

I tinkered with their boat a bit and would just set the strut like all the others: Boat flat on a table, loosen the strut, put a 1/16" shim under it, and push it down flat against the shim and tighten. That seems to be a good place to start.

The stock prop is essentially just a Prather 215. If you have a PREPPED version of that, use it to start. You'll realize about a 3mph increase over the stock one.

If I recall correctly, a 440/3 was fun on 6S.


Don't mean to just jump in on this convo but I just got a bj29 v3 for Christmas
Trying to learn what I can about it and how to tune it the best
Should I try a 440/3 on this ?
What's the benefit of three blade prop?