I was told and ignored

[S_pisco7084]

I read this on here and completely ignored it. Saw a lot of people broke their AQ flex cable instantly. Well mine broke and my 25$ prop is at the bottom of a lake.

The OSE cable is in my cart now but I need a prop as well. I was running a grim racer 42x55 2 blade. I have no experience with props or what the numbers mean that being said I'd like to try a 3 blade prop... I see AQ has one that is 40x52 3 blade. Should this work for my application ??

[S_pisco7084]

Note: for now I'm using cheap venom 25c batteries that I had laying around and they are getting pretty warm. 115-130 range so I'd like to bring those temps down as well

[kfxguy]

Note: for now I'm using cheap venom 25c batteries that I had laying around and they are getting pretty warm. 115-130 range so I'd like to bring those temps down as well

Never use anything than less than 50c in a boat (except something like a mini mono) and you'll be fine.

[tlandauer]

I read this on here and completely ignored it. Saw a lot of people broke their AQ flex cable instantly. Well mine broke and my 25$ prop is at the bottom of a lake.

The OSE cable is in my cart now but I need a prop as well. I was running a grim racer 42x55 2 blade. I have no experience with props or what the numbers mean that being said I'd like to try a 3 blade prop... I see AQ has one that is 40x52 3 blade. Should this work for my application ??
What boat do you have?
That prop is good but will be slower than the 42x55, and, you need to get the prop balanced and thinned , the "raw" ones come out of the castings should not be run at all, I could not tell if the prop you lost was properly prepared or not since you did not say, but judging by the price you paid, i have a suspicion that it was a "raw" prop.
That is very important! Running an unbalanced prop would not give you good performance and in addition it will damage your drive line components!

[Doby]

Never use anything than less than 50c in a boat (except something like a mini mono) and you'll be fine.
Wow...guess my 25C Turnigys that I run in all my Motley Crew are no good.

Lets try and be realistic here....

[tlandauer]

What boat do you have?
That prop is good but will be slower than the 42x55, and, you need to get the prop balanced and thinned , the "raw" ones come out of the castings should not be run at all, I could not tell if the prop you lost was properly prepared or not since you did not say, but judging by the price you paid, i have a suspicion that it was a "raw" prop.
That is very important! Running an unbalanced prop would not give you good performance and in addition it will damage your drive line components!
Never mind, the Forum is half working and I could not back up my page for some reason.

[S_pisco7084]

What boat do you have?
That prop is good but will be slower than the 42x55, and, you need to get the prop balanced and thinned , the "raw" ones come out of the castings should not be run at all, I could not tell if the prop you lost was properly prepared or not since you did not say, but judging by the price you paid, i have a suspicion that it was a "raw" prop.
That is very important! Running an unbalanced prop would not give you good performance and in addition it will damage your drive line components!

I'm running the lucas oil. The prop was "raw" out of the box and on to the boat. I had intentions of balancing it myself sometime soon. This is probably my 6-7th run with the boat.
I'd like to get the 3 blade honestly because I think they look cooler. Can you maybe point me in the direction of a pre balanced and sharpened prop ?

[S_pisco7084]

Something like this ??

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=octsb-y537%2F3

[tlandauer]

The closest to the one you originally wanted is this one: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=octsb-x440%2F3
They are both 40 mm in dia. and the pitch is similar.

[kfxguy]

Wow...guess my 25C Turnigys that I run in all my Motley Crew are no good.

Lets try and be realistic here....

Wow! Maybe your just lucky or way under propped. Good for you! But I'm stating what my rule of thumb is. I've seen way too many issues from running too weak of a battery....your experienced. ...maybe the next guy isnt. I would never recommend nor say that a 25c battery is good in a boat that size unless you never push it hard at all. You know this too so I'm not sure why you'd throw something out there like that. A boat draws a good bit more current than a car or truck so why would you act like it's just generally ok? It's always better to have a battery that's more than up to the task than one that's just borderline and I think you know that.....so that's being realistic for you.

[4THLAKERC]

on my the maiden voyage of my mc i hit somthing in water (see video on vids and pics or youtube)and lost a balanced and shrpnd prop i got from dosbota on this site $50 made me sick.im running a raw grm racr 42x55 prop now and realizing y my speed isnt there but gunshy about losing another $50 prop and doing it myself seems complicated. The stock plastic actully performs better than the raw. my plan is to send prop raw prop to have it done. As far as batts im shocked those battts work im running two 7.4 6000 80s and wish i had more

[S_pisco7084]

The closest to the one you originally wanted is this one: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=octsb-x440%2F3
They are both 40 mm in dia. and the pitch is similar.


Thank you sir. I'll give that one a try. Cheaper than I expected as well.

[S_pisco7084]

Wow! Maybe your just lucky or way under propped. Good for you! But I'm stating what my rule of thumb is. I've seen way too many issues from running too weak of a battery....your experienced. ...maybe the next guy isnt. I would never recommend nor say that a 25c battery is good in a boat that size unless you never push it hard at all. You know this too so I'm not sure why you'd throw something out there like that. A boat draws a good bit more current than a car or truck so why would you act like it's just generally ok? It's always better to have a battery that's more than up to the task than one that's just borderline and I think you know that.....so that's being realistic for you.

My venom 5000mah 25c batts were used in my 4x4 truck and must have at least 50 if not more runs through them. I put them in my boat until I can buy some nicer ones and they are working fine except for the fact they are getting pretty warm.

[fusion_m8]

Hopefully your OSE cable is the correct length. I had a bit of drama with mine being around half inch too long and had to cut it with a dremel. Not a big deal if you already have a dremel, but I didn't have one and had to spend $40 getting a dremel and another $8 for the rotary cutting wheel.

I am using Zippy Flightmax 6000mah 50c hardpacks and despite some of the bad reviews Zippys have been getting, I've found that they perform as good as Gens Ace 5000mah 50c packs which seem have a stellar reputation.

As for the prop, I'm using VXP X445 1.4p CNC prop, again lots of so called racers on this site despise CNC props, but I've found these work extremely well with the Lucas Oil and Miss Geico. I've just purchased a VXP V4214/2 1.6p detongued, S&B prop and can't wait to see if the detonguing and higher pitch will give me more top end speed without overheating the electrics.

Good luck and enjoy the hobby!

FWIW: Gens Ace is having a 50% off sale on their battery packs until 30th Sept 2014.

[SD Eracer]

Hopefully your OSE cable is the correct length. I had a bit of drama with mine being around half inch too long and had to cut it with a dremel.

I had the opposite experience. My OSE flexshaft for my Lucas Oil seemed to be about 1/4" too short. So just in case, I purchased an Octura Long coupler which made up the difference. I'm happy I did, because it lowered the rather large coupler to stuffing tube gap that's on the factory setup.

I have to say, when I ran my Lucas Oil for the first time (coming from a Wildcat EP), I wasn't completely awed by the speed difference. I was faster and everything, but it didn't really give me that "jolt" I thought I would feel. I bought a UL-1 at the same time which was shockingly fast for me in comparison.

However, after my stock flexshaft broke, I purchased a OSE Flexshaft and a Grimracer metal proper (balanced & sharpened). The difference was far more significant than I expected, the boat is absolutely flying now, it feels almost as fast as my stock UL-1!

Also, I noticed my mAh cosumption has decreased as well as my temps. I though my boat would use more power and heat up more with a metal prop, but the opposite has happened. I've gained 30 seconds on my runs and dropped almost 7 degrees on my motor and ESC.

[Luck as a Constant]

Wow! Maybe your just lucky or way under propped. Good for you! But I'm stating what my rule of thumb is. I've seen way too many issues from running too weak of a battery....your experienced. ...maybe the next guy isnt. I would never recommend nor say that a 25c battery is good in a boat that size unless you never push it hard at all. You know this too so I'm not sure why you'd throw something out there like that. A boat draws a good bit more current than a car or truck so why would you act like it's just generally ok? It's always better to have a battery that's more than up to the task than one that's just borderline and I think you know that.....so that's being realistic for you.

i have run 20c up to 40c. obviously 40c does better in any setup, but for a stock rtr the 20c packs did ok. most of the heat generated in the packs is when they start to dump their load. then things heat up quick. better to watch runtimes...
is 50c better? yes.....is 50c or higher necessary to run a boat? not even close...

To say "never" use anything less than 50c in a boat is kinda ridiculous dude... i gotta side with doby on this

[Luck as a Constant]

To the op, I wouldn't bother with a 3 blade on a cat.
As far as heat. If you want to bring temps down, shorten runtime a bit.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kfxguy]

i have run 20c up to 40c. obviously 40c does better in any setup, but for a stock rtr the 20c packs did ok. most of the heat generated in the packs is when they start to dump their load. then things heat up quick. better to watch runtimes...
is 50c better? yes.....is 50c or higher necessary to run a boat? not even close...

To say "never" use anything less than 50c in a boat is kinda ridiculous dude... i gotta side with doby on this

Everyone is entitled to their opinion.

[Luck as a Constant]

Everyone is entitled to their opinion.

This is true. Which is precisely why you should state that it's your opinion when making those kinds of statements man.
It hardly came off as your opinion http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/24/ra8u3yzy.jpg
Just my opinion tho lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kfxguy]

This is true. Which is precisely why you should state that it's your opinion when making those kinds of statements man.
It hardly came off as your opinion http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/24/ra8u3yzy.jpg
Just my opinion tho lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wasn't my opinion. ...was based on actual experience. ;)

[jfrancisco892]

C rating is a number that does not always represent what it is supposed to in batteries. More often than not the quality of the cells (typically contingent on the manufacturer) is more important than the C rating. The C rating is simply a coefficient to determine maximum constant amperage that the cells are capable of. That being said you can have a higher constant amperage rating with cells that have a lower C rating compared to cells with higher C rating depending on the capacity. To simply say "do not run batteries less than 50c in boats" is completely ambiguous and terrible advice.

Maximum constant amperage = Battery capacity in Amp Hours (Amp hours = Mah/1000) x C Rating of Batteries

Regarding a 3 blade prop on the boat, I will say that I have a Motley Crew (Same hull as lucas just different hardware) and have had much success with an Octura X440/3 on it for offshore trim.

Be sure to make sure the flex cable properly aligns with the flex coupler on the motor. If you have to move the motor or brass tube to get the flex cable in the collet, it will surely cause more drag on the drive line which in turn results in more load on the motor and more heat.

[kfxguy]

C rating is a number that does not always represent what it is supposed to in batteries. More often than not the quality of the cells (typically contingent on the manufacturer) is more important than the C rating. The C rating is simply a coefficient to determine maximum constant amperage that the cells are capable of. That being said you can have a higher constant amperage rating with cells that have a lower C rating compared to cells with higher C rating depending on the capacity. To simply say "do not run batteries less than 50c in boats" is completely ambiguous and terrible advice.

Maximum constant amperage = Battery capacity in Amp Hours (Amp hours = Mah/1000) x C Rating of Batteries

Regarding a 3 blade prop on the boat, I will say that I have a Motley Crew (Same hull as lucas just different hardware) and have had much success with an Octura X440/3 on it for offshore trim.

Be sure to make sure the flex cable properly aligns with the flex coupler on the motor. If you have to move the motor or brass tube to get the flex cable in the collet, it will surely cause more drag on the drive line which in turn results in more load on the motor and more heat.

It's always terrible advice to recommend using a better battery? Sorry, do not see your logic there. I see you have a dragster as your avatar, so if that means anything to you I'll give you an example you can relate to. Say you build this engine, it has 11.5 to 1 compression, you know it can run on 91 octane, but...it's cutting it close. So do you:
A) say screw it, I'll chance it on 91 or
B) you go ahead and run it on 93 because you know it's safer and gives you more of a margin for error (tune, too lean, high air intake temps).

In my mind, the better thing to do is have the safety margin. So yea, go ahead and keep recommending the use of lower amp batteries and people will keep posting here that their esc burnt....their wires get hot, connectors get hot, melt or come unsoldered, their batteries puff.....Me....I'll kick back and think about the ambiguous and terrible advice I'm giving and just keep it to myself for now on.

[jfrancisco892]

It's always terrible advice to recommend using a better battery? Sorry, do not see your logic there. I see you have a dragster as your avatar, so if that means anything to you I'll give you an example you can relate to. Say you build this engine, it has 11.5 to 1 compression, you know it can run on 91 octane, but...it's cutting it close. So do you:
A) say screw it, I'll chance it on 91 or
B) you go ahead and run it on 93 because you know it's safer and gives you more of a margin for error (tune, too lean, high air intake temps).

In my mind, the better thing to do is have the safety margin. So yea, go ahead and keep recommending the use of lower amp batteries and people will keep posting here that their esc burnt....their wires get hot, connectors get hot, melt or come unsoldered, their batteries puff.....Me....I'll kick back and think about the ambiguous and terrible advice I'm giving and just keep it to myself for now on.

It's terrible because you said it as if it is a standard to run 50c or better batteries. Based on that logic you can't run Hyperion batteries in boats since the highest C rating they offer is 45c.

As far as the compression ratio goes, I'll just touch the tip of the iceberg and say compression ratio is only one of many factors to consider when determining what fuel to run. Why would I run 110 octane race fuel when pump gas would work just fine? Basically you are saying that if you were racing a production vehicle you would run the most expensive race gas you could just to make sure the car would not have any issues (All of these references translate into fe boats with battery choice). Also the difference between 91 and 93 is so minimal both price and performance wise that it doesn't fit as a reference when comparing batteries that are up to double the cost of cheaper alternatives.

Not everyone wants to put thousands of dollars into toy boats. Maybe they just want to have one to mess with every once in a while. In which case a high performance high C rated battery would be nothing more than a waste of money.

[Luck as a Constant]

Wasn't my opinion. ...was based on actual experience. ;)

Noplease.
Nobody is arguing higher c isn't better, but your comment was way off man. You can debate this one all you want, but 50c isn't necessary to run a boat. Not even close.
-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kfxguy]

I see why alot of people just quit posting here. Too many know it all's, professional advice correctors and self proclaimed experts. I'll just say you win. Carve yourself a notch on your keyboard......lol

[Luck as a Constant]

I see why alot of people just quit posting here. Too many know it all's, professional advice correctors and self proclaimed experts. I'll just say you win. Carve yourself a notch on your keyboard......lol

Lol is this not exactly what you're doing? Making statements as fact based on your experience? C'mon man don't get all offended cause we called you out on that. You made the comment not us. -)


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[Doug Smock]

:focus: please sirs.

[Luck as a Constant]

Sorry )


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[S_pisco7084]

Gees I forgot what my original post was. To end the debate. Nimh or nicad batteries are the future. :just-kidding:

Back to topic I got my OSE flex shaft, it fit perfect. for now I'm using my stock plastic prop and I don't notice much of a difference compared to my unbalanced or unsharpened brass one. Still saving $ to order a ready to run prop.

[tlandauer]

That plastic 3 blade prop is one of my favorite props, I used it for a long time and still use it when i do testing sometime.
I am sure there was just as much debate when Nimh and Nicad were in use .:laugh:

[Steven Vaccaro]

Hopefully your OSE cable is the correct length. I had a bit of drama with mine being around half inch too long and had to cut it with a dremel. Not a big deal if you already have a dremel, but I didn't have one and had to spend $40 getting a dremel and another $8 for the rotary cutting wheel.


Sorry to crap up your thread, but this does need replying to. How convenient he posts his costs but nothing about his refund.
You can see the email sent to Fusion when he contacted about this issue. I would have more than gladly sent him a new cable if he needed.


"Sorry about this.

If you have the ability to cut the cable to the correct length, I can refund the cost of the cable $24.99. Let me know if that works for you?


Steven Vaccaro
Offshore Electrics Inc.
www.OffshoreElectrics.com (http://www.OffshoreElectrics.com)"

Reply

"Hi Steve:

I guess I have the refund will have to do for now, as I have to go buy a new dremel to cut the cable to the correct length.

Thank you for such a swift response to the problem."

[kfxguy]

That was not a very smart
Post for him. Why make someone look bad and leave out the fact that they gave you a complete refund? Basically he gave you a free flex cable....that's pretty messed up how some people are so unappreciative. I think an apology and explanation is owed....

[fusion_m8]

Think you guys better get YOUR facts straight before you start looking foolish...

READ POST #4

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?48361-Flex-cable-length-Is-this-normal&p=586831#post586831

No need to apologise to me, both of you have a nice day now!

This is not the first time people have bought OSE cables that are of varying lengths for the same boat, can't OSE even get the lengths right? Its not that hard is it?

Getting a refund doesn't mean I got a free flex cable, the cable was part of a $500 order (you conveniently left that fact out too Steve). It means I had to fix the problem myself, a refund is just a lazy way out for the person who caused the problem in the first place.

Want to learn how to do things right?? Either get your QC in check or send a replacement cable that is the correct length. That's how business should be done if you are taking people's money.

[JMSCARD]

Not to jump back at the c rating thing but remember when tactic 12c and 14c packs were used in big fast boats with schulze esc's! Haha.... It's all in the setup, and I don't think 50c 5000mah packs capable of 250 amps constant are needed in a motley... Not trying to beat a dead horse but that is bad info... And a waste of money for a motley crew... You'd be better off buying some $22 pack 30c turnigy packs and have fresh new packs, and 3 times as many of them.

I also have never bought a flex from Steve I haven't had to cut.. But I am pretty sure that's standard fair no matter which vendor you get a flex from, would you rather have it to short? They are generally sold as cut to your exact length... Even RTR boats can be a mm or two diff... Hence why they come long instead of to short.... Most all parts in FE need some tuning to each application... Even flexes, and glad you got yourself a dremel it's a tool you'll def make good use out of.

Not trying to mud the thread up but I think quality info is what we want to parlay to fellow members, not gripes about not being able to cut down a flex and needing packs hanspeter would be proud to run in his hpr's in a RTR boat with lowwww amp draw... His packs are warm because they are tired... And they are venoms after all too... Not a top boaters pic!

[iop65]

i posted it before ; the kids and i run my lucas oil with the stock flex for almost a short year now
5s stock motor with 43 mm cnc : gives about 78 km/h but breaks the 80km/h when set loose

my comment is that when i see some guy's boating :hard on the throttle from zero......from max rpm's too full stop in a blink

that's hard !!

a 4.75 mm h&m flex will handle that punishment even from far bigger set-ups but a rtr boat with a 3.8 mm flex ?

i'm just saying that i'm not surprised that something breaks when i see some video's or guy's at the lokal pond...

hey ,it's there money, but i'm not getting my money for free so i respect the things i buy

[kfxguy]

Think you guys better get YOUR facts straight before you start looking foolish...

READ POST #4

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?48361-Flex-cable-length-Is-this-normal&p=586831#post586831

No need to apologise to me, both of you have a nice day now!

This is not the first time people have bought OSE cables that are of varying lengths for the same boat, can't OSE even get the lengths right? Its not that hard is it?

Getting a refund doesn't mean I got a free flex cable, the cable was part of a $500 order (you conveniently left that fact out too Steve). It means I had to fix the problem myself, a refund is just a lazy way out for the person who caused the problem in the first place.

Want to learn how to do things right?? Either get your QC in check or send a replacement cable that is the correct length. That's how business should be done if you are taking people's money.

If you have to whine like that about having to cut a flex cable... maybe this hobby isn't for you. Giving you a refund is a lazy way of getting out of it? What are you expecting.....someone to come to your house and hold you hand and cut it for you? All I can say is some people you can't please no matter what. This seems to be the case. If I was having to deal with someone like this, I wouldn't sell them anything ever again.

[jj2003]

Getting a refund doesn't mean I got a free flex cable

It doesn't? If you didn't pay for it, you received it for free.


the cable was part of a $500 order (you conveniently left that fact out too Steve).

What does the fact that you placed a $500 order have to do with it? You still received a refund and therefore did not pay for it. Are you counting the $.50 it cost to ship with the rest of your $500 order?


It means I had to fix the problem myself, a refund is just a lazy way out for the person who caused the problem in the first place


Getting a refund on something does not mean you had to fix it yourself to be satisfied. That was your choice. You could have sent it back.

Jeez man, thats just being knit picky. Unhappy you had to buy a dremel? You just made one of the best investments you could make if you plan on running/building boats. Not to mention all the other applications it could be used on.

Better look up the meaning of "FREE" or "REFUND"

Better yet, here ya go;


FREE; adverb


1.
without cost or payment.
"ladies were admitted free"


synonyms:
without charge, free of charge, for nothing

re·fund1
verb

riˈfənd,ˈrēˌfənd/

1.
pay back (money), typically to a customer who is not satisfied with goods or services bought.
"if you're not delighted with your purchase, we guarantee to refund your money in full"


synonyms:
repay (https://www.google.com/search?espv=2&biw=1920&bih=993&q=define+repay&sa=X&ei=OJ4mVJmxA5KeyASsz4CAAQ&ved=0CB8Q_SowAA), give back, return (https://www.google.com/search?espv=2&biw=1920&bih=993&q=define+return&sa=X&ei=OJ4mVJmxA5KeyASsz4CAAQ&ved=0CCAQ_SowAA), pay back











Where does it say anything about having to fix something your not happy with yourself? The definition is self explanatory. You received a "refund" = repay (https://www.google.com/search?espv=2&biw=1920&bih=993&q=define+repay&sa=X&ei=OJ4mVJmxA5KeyASsz4CAAQ&ved=0CB8Q_SowAA), give back, return (https://www.google.com/search?espv=2&biw=1920&bih=993&q=define+return&sa=X&ei=OJ4mVJmxA5KeyASsz4CAAQ&ved=0CCAQ_SowAA), pay back

And you didn't have to take it back = free = without charge, free of charge, for nothing

If you bought an article of clothing and weren't happy with it, would you tailor it yourself or would you take it back for a "refund"?

If you bought a fridge and it didn't turn on would you fix it yourself or would you take it back for a "refund"?

C'mon dude, now your just being disrespectful. To point out that it cost you this or cost you that due to a minor issue such as the length of the cable is doing yourself a disservice. Good luck with trying to get anything aftermarket that is better quality than factory and is a perfect fit. Stick with the "factory" stuff and keep replacing it. It'll cost you more money in the long run than your investment of a product you can use in almost any other everyday environment.

[Luck as a Constant]

Think you guys better get YOUR facts straight before you start looking foolish...

READ POST #4

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?48361-Flex-cable-length-Is-this-normal&p=586831#post586831

No need to apologise to me, both of you have a nice day now!

This is not the first time people have bought OSE cables that are of varying lengths for the same boat, can't OSE even get the lengths right? Its not that hard is it?

Getting a refund doesn't mean I got a free flex cable, the cable was part of a $500 order (you conveniently left that fact out too Steve). It means I had to fix the problem myself, a refund is just a lazy way out for the person who caused the problem in the first place.



Want to learn how to do things right?? Either get your QC in check or send a replacement cable that is the correct length. That's how business should be done if you are taking people's money.

i understand your frustration, but you're directing it the wrong direction dude.
you should also understand, that there are only a couple of places to buy this stuff, and posting these things will only hurt your chances of getting items in the future.


as far as having to buy a dremel, i will ask... Why did you not already own one? :confused2:isn't owning one a rite of passage into manhood?:thumbup1: it should be a requirement..... You should actually be ashamed of yourself for not ALREADY owning one :bash: Nevertheless.....welcome to Man Club! :beerchug:

[tlandauer]

"Give credit where credit is due"---- you are upset because you did give OSE praise for the refund in that other thread.
For the hundreds ( 671 to be exact as of the time I am writing this) who only saw THIS THREAD, no one would think or know that you were given a refund. Regardless of YOUR DEFINITION of a REFUND.
You would have received more support had you simply pointed out the misunderstanding , but you turned your frustration and anger to bash OSE, it is totally unnecessary and inappropriate.

[kfxguy]

"Give credit where credit is due"---- you are upset because you did give OSE praise for the refund in that other thread.
For the hundreds ( 671 to be exact as of the time I am writing this) who only saw THIS THREAD, no one would think or know that you were given a refund. Regardless of YOUR DEFINITION of a REFUND.
You would have received more support had you simply pointed out the misunderstanding , but you turned your frustration and anger to bash OSE, it is totally unnecessary and inappropriate.

With that attitude, I imagine his stay will be short.

[Doug Smock]

Let's drive on please sirs!

D.:tiphat:

[S_pisco7084]

Can you queens hush ? I started this thread and don't care about your what 27$ ? Come on.

[tlandauer]

Can you queens hush ? I started this thread and don't care about your what 27$ ? Come on.

Now that we got our genders right finally :bounce:, did you try the X440/3? I would like to know your opinion on that prop as compared to the one you lost.

[S_pisco7084]

No I'm running the factory 2 blade prop it came with. I'm saving up to order a 3 blade

[Alex y]

I have read that 3 blade props get more cavitation that a 2 blade prop so when would a 3 blade be better? on a big boat? I always respect my hobby shop suppliers as they are very helpful with advice. My flex shaft supplier says you need to cut the shafts yourself, bend the drive tube and to always use a "shaft saver" so when your 1 piece shaft breaks your prop won't end up on the bottom of the pond. With the stock Genesis 900 2 piece flex shaft the dog gear is held in place with a grub screw that can move if I over tighten the prop nut and stop the shaft turning it needs a notch for the grub screw to hold onto I will look into doing it as after my last run the prop nut was nearly loose or I will locktite thread lock the prop nut, I will upgrade to a 3/16" 1 piece flex shaft and a 38mm 2 blade CNC prop 3814 that is made balanced and sharpened when I can afford it.