Revolt 30 setup

[Dlamazing]

:frusty: hi to all I've learned a lot from all you guys here and thanks I would have not gotten where I'm at today if it wasn't for you all we'll I need some revolt veterans help I just got the boat I did a lot of tweaking before it hit water since I've seen nothing but horror stories I upgraded the flex shaft and new AQ coupler since the factory one broke pulling the stock bent flex shaft I replaced all the connectors with 5.5 bullets battery,esc,motor all I also did the bigger cooling lines 4mm and re routed to esc first then motor by the way it's all stock 1800 motor n stock esc I set the turn fins kicked back and all the way up the strut I set it at true zero with the hull had to shim the strut bracket to achive this trim tabs are set even with the hull on the right side standing from the back of the boat and left is at credit card thickness above the hull line I sharpened the rudder all the way and rounded and sharpen as we'll the bottom of it it's also on a 4cell 5000mah pack and also have a 7200. 4cell pack also from turnigy both I'm stuck at 44.3 with a s/b m445 I see a lot of ppl here hit upper 40s with same set up can anyone guide me a bit to get there please battery also sits all the way back in stock tray

[Dlamazing]

Also the brass shaft collet keeps coming out every time I drive it it backs up a bit any advise on how to keep it in there I put more grease on but doesn't help it stay in there :/

[Luck as a Constant]

If you're talking about the brass bushing, it's a floating design and is supposed to move in and out like that. Don't try to keep it in there


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[revoltrunner]

post a couple pics of the rear of the boat showing the
hardware from the back and side.

[Dlamazing]

118657118658118659
post a couple pics of the rear of the boat showing the
hardware from the back and side.

[revoltrunner]

I can't see the shim on the strut bracket.
did you angle the bracket up or down.

[Dlamazing]

I can't see the shim on the strut bracket.
did you angle the bracket up or down.

You can see it but it's on the right side on the boat standing behind it it's really thin also but the shaft is set even with the hull up and and and side to side true zero

[revoltrunner]

my boats at my weekend place right now.
I will get some pics of my setup and post them
this weekend. mine runs 50-52 mph all the time.

[Dlamazing]

my boats at my weekend place right now.
I will get some pics of my setup and post them
this weekend. mine runs 50-52 mph all the time.
Thanks I would appreciate that a lot damn that's fast! On the stock setup!! What prop are you using? And what temps are you getting? I would think your cutting it close pushing that speed unless you got some nice cold waters here in Miami fl isn't the case the sun puts a beating here lol

[revoltrunner]

my prop is a Octura x642 s/b
the lake I run in stays pretty cool most
of the summer,its spring fed.
my turn fins are all the way up as yours are
but I angled them back as far as they would go.
I tweaked the strut depth and angle many times before
it would run they it does. my strut is sticking out above
the mount about a 1/4" with around a 2 degree positive angle.
take that shim out and try that depth and angle.
check your flex shaft alignment at the motor coupler.
I had to put a washer under both front motor mounts so
the flex shaft would side right in the coupler without having
to push down on the coupler a little. also make sure your prop shaft
is not getting into the Teflon liner. mine was going into it about a 1/4"
I run 2 5000mah 2s batteries all the way back in the tray side by side.
I have my rudder angled back a couple of degrees too.
Mike could help you also. he has his running the same speeds.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/member.php?9490-Mike-Caruso

[Dlamazing]

my prop is a Octura x642 s/b
the lake I run in stays pretty cool most
of the summer,its spring fed.
my turn fins are all the way up as yours are
but I angled them back as far as they would go.
I tweaked the strut depth and angle many times before
it would run they it does. my strut is sticking out above
the mount about a 1/4" with around a 2 degree positive angle.
take that shim out and try that depth and angle.
check your flex shaft alignment at the motor coupler.
I had to put a washer under both front motor mounts so
the flex shaft would side right in the coupler without having
to push down on the coupler a little. also make sure your prop shaft
is not getting into the Teflon liner. mine was going into it about a 1/4"
I run 2 5000mah 2s batteries all the way back in the tray side by side.
I have my rudder angled back a couple of degrees too.
Mike could help you also. he has his running the same speeds.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/member.php?9490-Mike-Caruso
We'll I did some tweaking to it yesterday i left the strut with the shim so it's parallel with the hull side to side but I did angle it up a bit and put the trim tabs on neutral and went up to to 46.4 mph it's running a bit more loose then what it was and the electronics temp dropped by like 20 degrees gonna try moving the rudder a bit back see if it loosens up a bit more since it was running so wet I also ordered a x642 see if that will bump me a little more also thanks for helping me gonna try n get it to were you ppl at

[revoltrunner]

getting the prop up a little is what lowered your temps.
try just a little more up angle on the prop and see if that
loosens it up a little more.
just run it and tweak it till your satisfied.
I probably made 20 very minor tweaks to mine
before I got it to run the way I wanted it to.
that's part of the fun though....lol
good luck and have fun.

this guys boat runs very similar to mine.
notice how much of the hull is out of the water
on the straightaways.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEM86naf8TA

[revoltrunner]

I got all the way up to my weekend place and
realised I forgot my camera. i'll try to
borrow one from somebody and get some pics.

[revoltrunner]

here's some pics. sorry it took so long.

[Rob Duckering]

You should round off the bottom of your rudder

[Banjo Dick]

Hi, I just bought a Revolt 30 and I'm new to FE boating. Since I don't know anybody in my new neighborhood, I'm relying on the good info in this forum for initial setup advice. I'll do the mods I've seen here before I drop it into the bay in the spring. The (saltwater) bay off Bellport, NY can get choppy so I'm more for stability than ultimate top speed. But I think I'll bring along an inflatable dingy to row out; just in case.
I guess I should buy all the Revolt upgrade parts from OSE and spare parts now, since the boat is discontinued?

[tlandauer]

Hi, I just bought a Revolt 30 and I'm new to FE boating. Since I don't know anybody in my new neighborhood, I'm relying on the good info in this forum for initial setup advice. I'll do the mods I've seen here before I drop it into the bay in the spring. The (saltwater) bay off Bellport, NY can get choppy so I'm more for stability than ultimate top speed. But I think I'll bring along an inflatable dingy to row out; just in case.
I guess I should buy all the Revolt upgrade parts from OSE and spare parts now, since the boat is discontinued?
We were supposed to meet up at Legg Lake, you moved to East Coast, lol...
best Wishes for your new home.
The first thing is to get an after market flex-cable for your boat, if there ever was a weak link in the Revolt, I think that was it.
I will also get an Octura collet, as I remember the stock AquaCraft black ones aren't that great.
Running in salt water means you need to prepare to wash off your boat thoroughly after each run. That means besides the obvious, bring yourself a water pump to pump fresh water thru the cooling line starting from your rudder pick up. I use these nitro/gas crank pump , http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMA93&P=7
Bring a big jar of fresh water to your site, as soon as you have done your boating, pump water thru the cooling lines. Also don't forget to pack WD-40, spray them at all the hardware, some even do that in their cooling lines, that means you spray into the tubes until you see it coming out from the exit---here is the thing: I am mindful that the chemicals in the WD-40 will , in the long run, weaken the ''O" rings in your motor cooling jacket, so use with care. Needless to say, you need to take down your flex-cable as well, corrosion starts the moment your boat leaves the water.
The REVOLT is coming back, so if you visit www.towerhobbies.com, you will see it in the Spring.

[Banjo Dick]

We were supposed to meet up at Legg Lake, you moved to East Coast, lol...
best Wishes for your new home.
The first thing is to get an after market flex-cable for your boat, if there ever was a weak link in the Revolt, I think that was it.
I will also get an Octura collet, as I remember the stock AquaCraft black ones aren't that great.
Running in salt water means you need to prepare to wash off your boat thoroughly after each run. That means besides the obvious, bring yourself a water pump to pump fresh water thru the cooling line starting from your rudder pick up. I use these nitro/gas crank pump , http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMA93&P=7
Bring a big jar of fresh water to your site, as soon as you have done your boating, pump water thru the cooling lines. Also don't forget to pack WD-40, spray them at all the hardware, some even do that in their cooling lines, that means you spray into the tubes until you see it coming out from the exit---here is the thing: I am mindful that the chemicals in the WD-40 will , in the long run, weaken the ''O" rings in your motor cooling jacket, so use with care. Needless to say, you need to take down your flex-cable as well, corrosion starts the moment your boat leaves the water.
The REVOLT is coming back, so if you visit www.towerhobbies.com, you will see it in the Spring.



Thank you Tim!

Yeah, I wanted to move closer to Carnegie Hall just in case they call! I visited Legg a couple times, must've missed you I guess. I'll have to join NAMBA here. Sorry I needed to move away from $o. Cal, until the statute of limitations expires (just kidding?) Village of Bellport, NY has only one traffic light, 2,000 people, and we have to take turns being the Village Idiot...

Ordered a SS collet, upgrade flex-cable, grease, SS prop, and other spare parts for the new Revolt 30. Watched a youtube video on clearing out the salt water; I'll probably blow many mouthfuls of drinking water, then flush thoroughly at home. Maybe I'll be able to run the 1/10 scale Shovelnose Hydro in some local calm pond, but the Great South Bay is so much more convenient and I figured a deep V mono would be necessary for the perpetual chop. I read somewhere that WD40 was originally made from fish oil, but it's great for displacing water so I'll buy stock in the company.

California banjo gig in May, I hope to thaw out for a couple weeks!

[Mike Caruso]

Hi Guys,
Sorry I just saw this today whatever I can help you with i will.
Mike

[BHChieftain]

I have a setup/running guide for the Revolt which includes how to set up the boat plus upgrade options (most available here at OSE), props, and a bunch of useful links, if you would like a copy send me an email at jqhydro@gmail.com.

Chief

[Banjo Dick]

I have a setup/running guide for the Revolt which includes how to set up the boat plus upgrade options (most available here at OSE), props, and a bunch of useful links, if you would like a copy send me an email at jqhydro@gmail.com.

Chief

Email sent! Thank you very much. I just received the (second hand - but never run) Revolt today and already have an order in for parts I mentioned 3 posts up. I'll be running stock motor on 4S and could use some help choosing the best prop; I'm more interested in getting long, stabile runs rather than ultimate top speed. But that's only what I'm thinking today...

BTW, should I consider any reinforcing of the hull and lowering the CG? I have months to set up this thing before it warms up around here.

[Banjo Dick]

Question:

I will be running in perpetual chop in the Great South Bay off Bellport, NY. When I see a lot of the fast Revolts on YouTube, they all seem to cavitate for a second or two before hooking up and I'm thinking I would like a prop that hooks up right away after bouncing in the chop, with minimal cavitation and I'm not that concerned (today) with ultimate top speed, just long reliable fun runs. Should I order some prop (?) and have an expert put some cupping into it?

You guys know a heckova lot more than I do!

[BHChieftain]

Question:

I will be running in perpetual chop in the Great South Bay off Bellport, NY. When I see a lot of the fast Revolts on YouTube, they all seem to cavitate for a second or two before hooking up and I'm thinking I would like a prop that hooks up right away after bouncing in the chop, with minimal cavitation and I'm not that concerned (today) with ultimate top speed, just long reliable fun runs. Should I order some prop (?) and have an expert put some cupping into it?

You guys know a heckova lot more than I do!

This is one of the reasons I like to run lower RPMs-- very high RPM setups can cavitate (maybe those videos are showing revolts on the stock motor on 6s??). The stock 42x55 is actually a pretty good prop on the stock setup provided it is sharpened and balanced.

If you are looking for some punch vs. top end speed, I'd think about the x642 prop. I see a lot of folks run the m445, and although that has less total pitch than the x642, the detounged m445 runs faster at the top end (motor hits max rpms better on that one), but has less punch at the low end. The x642 will be slower at top end but should punch better. Note I've seen a few ESC fires with folks running m445 on the AQ60 ESC, so you might want to think about upgrading that if you are going to prop up. That being said, I personally run an x642 with the stock ESC in a hydro (2030kv motor 4S), and my setup is running ok-- but I'm only running 3.5min at a time racing.

Chief