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roost28
07-13-2014, 04:51 PM
I have a 200amp swordfish esc in my impulse with a leopard 4074 2150kv motor running on 4s and the esc keeps shutting down after 2 laps like the lvc is turning on. I set it all the way down to 5v cuttoff and it still does it. any ideas?

thanks

ray schrauwen
07-13-2014, 07:51 PM
Set everything to Automatic or factory defaults and try a short run. I ran one in my Whiplash 40 with a TP Power 4070 motor, 1250 KV on 6S2P and it worked fine. I mean, it worked until I pushed it so hard the motor lead melted off the esc. I ran mine on all Auto settings from factory, all I did was calibrate the throttle and then ran...

Not sure why people are having these issues. I still need to call a buddy about his 220 to help troubleshoot the same problem.

What cells exactly are you running? 1P or 2P??

ray schrauwen
07-13-2014, 07:53 PM
Check for water flow too, it could have thermalled but, not likely... I made mine thermal once on first run after 4.5 laps but, that was a BIG prop.

roost28
07-13-2014, 08:11 PM
It's not thermaling, I am running 4s2p with an m445 prop, it's not even warm

roost28
07-13-2014, 08:12 PM
I'll try the auto setting and see what it does.
Thanks

roost28
07-14-2014, 10:59 AM
So I got it running and everything seems to be good now, I ran it for about 5m and the temps were all fairly cool but the caps on the esc were around 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Is this normal or should I try a smaller prop? I am currently running an m445 with a leopard 4074 2150kv.
Thanks

ray schrauwen
07-14-2014, 11:47 AM
That is close to normal temps (high) but, the 5 minute run has a bit to do with it.

Did you set it to Auto and see an improvement?? This is odd IMO, we should be able to choose our own settings and not have a problem instead of using Auto mode.

ray schrauwen
07-14-2014, 11:49 AM
An extra cap bank may help with temps for 5 minute runs.

roost28
07-14-2014, 12:25 PM
That is close to normal temps (high) but, the 5 minute run has a bit to do with it.

Did you set it to Auto and see an improvement?? This is odd IMO, we should be able to choose our own settings and not have a problem instead of using Auto mode.

I tried the auto setting and it was choosing 5s, indicated by 5 beeps after powering up. So I did it manual and it worked fine after that. Maybe I just didn't do it right the first few times I tried to set it.

roost28
07-14-2014, 12:32 PM
An extra cap bank may help with temps for 5 minute runs.

I'll time a 3m run and see what temps I get, I guess these boats really hog power.

Engelkefarm
07-14-2014, 02:29 PM
Swordfish esc are junk i had a seaking 180 never any issues always cool. I hooked cables up backwards one day and blew it up. Bought a swordfish 240 that lasted 100 feet. So bought the 200 a and that works but my batts just get puffy i have a leopard 4082 2 3s packs x442-x445 prop. I used to run x448 with my seaking no issues. Owner of ose wont help me out a bit. With my seaking set up i got 100+ runs destroyed 1 batt in one year. Swordfish setup used 5 times destroyed 2 batts in 1 week. Unless owner of ose makes things right im done with toy boats i cant afford to destroy any more batts

ray schrauwen
07-14-2014, 04:04 PM
I can remember when I first started at FE RC boats. Way back an esc was $200 and it would only handle 70 amps, motors were around $300 and batteries, well, sky was the limit.

Basically, I'm saying if what you think you are spending today is big bucks, you have no clue. Another person has noticed that you have slammed these esc's in at least 3 threads so far. This isn't going to help you with anything. If you want help, ask for it after your first problem like your SF240 that you say lasted 100 feet. Was it new? Used? Did you calibrate throttle, did you ask for help before it all blew up? There are so many questions unanswered before you even got the SF200. You need to start off small. I've been at this for at least 15 years, more like 20 and I've never built a boat that needed a 240 amp esc until 2 or 3 years ago. Some times you need to crawl before you walk or run.

Engelkefarm
07-14-2014, 08:02 PM
Any unanswered questions you can find in other thread.

Doug Smock
07-14-2014, 08:16 PM
Unless owner of ose makes things right im done with toy boats i cant afford to destroy any more batts

With all due respect in reading your posts it's clear that the "owner of ose" is not the source of your problem. You've been given some good advice, take it and continue to learn not to burn. :wink:

Good luck!

Doby
07-14-2014, 08:47 PM
Unless owner of ose makes things right im done with toy boats i cant afford to destroy any more batts

Look in the mirror, then you will see the root cause of your problem.

Engelkefarm
07-15-2014, 07:49 AM
Some good advice? I have not received any advice. Other than i cant state my own opinion

Engelkefarm
07-15-2014, 07:51 AM
Doby you want to answer any of my questions?

ray schrauwen
07-15-2014, 12:41 PM
Well, for starters on advice, in future use ONLY ONE thread to deal with your problem so when advice is given you don't miss it trying to read three threads. I have tried to be tactful with advice given and you are still stamping your feet. Time for a reality check...

ray schrauwen
07-15-2014, 12:49 PM
If it only gave you 5 beeps when plugging in 6S, your cells were bad from the start because this can only be caused by a bad cell. I think I'm too tired to try and keep answering questions with the same answers. Please re-read what I and others have posted, it should help if not, well, it's hard for us to bounce through three threads to help out any more than what we have.

Lastly, I use a battery checker. I had a Hyperion checker and it went bad on me telling me the wrong info until I tried another. The bad checker almost cost me some nice battery packs. Things happen, it's electronics.


I tried the auto setting and it was choosing 5s, indicated by 5 beeps after powering up. So I did it manual and it worked fine after that. Maybe I just didn't do it right the first few times I tried to set it.

msundsd5
07-15-2014, 10:19 PM
I'm having the same issue fellas with the SF200. I press the throttle and it cuts in and out a couple times before it starts to stay consistent with throttle. I can't figure out why it is doing it. All my stuff is on factory settings with the esc and I have calibrated the transmitter ( at least I believe I have ). Maybe I can post a video of what it is doing so you can chime in. Let me see if I can find one, in the meantime if you think you might be able to assist me with figuring out why it's cutting in and cutting out please share your thoughts. I am running on 4s 5000mah 65c packs, various motors ( Leopard 4074, Zonda Stock Motors, etc) and it does it on all.

Doug Smock
07-15-2014, 10:24 PM
Some good advice? I have not received any advice. Other than i cant state my own opinion

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?47567-Anyone-else-think-swordfish-junk

kevinpratt823
07-16-2014, 04:48 AM
Some good advice? I have not received any advice. Other than i cant state my own opinion

Once again, you repeatedly state your "opinion", but in the same sentence claim that it is "fact". I don't think "opinion" means what you think it means....

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Engelkefarm
07-16-2014, 09:12 AM
Fact 180 easy to use and works. Fact swordfish is a headach. EDIT: Check your mail please.

ray schrauwen
07-16-2014, 11:32 AM
I'm having the same issue fellas with the SF200. I press the throttle and it cuts in and out a couple times before it starts to stay consistent with throttle. I can't figure out why it is doing it. All my stuff is on factory settings with the esc and I have calibrated the transmitter ( at least I believe I have ). Maybe I can post a video of what it is doing so you can chime in. Let me see if I can find one, in the meantime if you think you might be able to assist me with figuring out why it's cutting in and cutting out please share your thoughts. I am running on 4s 5000mah 65c packs, various motors ( Leopard 4074, Zonda Stock Motors, etc) and it does it on all.

Just sharing my experiences with the 200 8S esc. I had a cold solder joint that re-joined itself as you can see in the video. I was last to start but, lucky came in 3rd. I almost never started and when back at the bench the one connector almost fell off one esc motor lead. I've since updated the esc with an extra, larger cooling plate and fixed my soldering mistakes. I've also added a cap bank (Etti 35V version) and opened up the rudder intake hole on the speedmaster rudder. I was going to add a second pickup but, after opening up the rudder intake and adding higher flow nipples to the motor I think it will be o.k.
Still have to test this esc out again if it dumps I'll have to use my SF240 that did the job. I'm really pushing this esc too hard with the motor and cells in it but, I beat the snot out of it so far. This was with Auto settings....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkYU5LD_2VQ&feature=youtu.be

kevinpratt823
07-16-2014, 12:20 PM
Fact 180 easy to use and works. Fact swordfish is a headach. Opinion i think your a sob

Actually all 3 of those are opinions based on your experience.

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