Seaking 180amp problem help

[scoota666999]

Hi guy's, Im running Leopard 4082 1600kv and 180 amp Seaking speedy in my Spartan. Always been reliable . Yesterday I put a 42mm prop on , nothing over the top just a nice step up from the stocky prop. This morning I went to give it a run . Everything was as normal but as soon as id try to get a bit of pace up the power drops away . Its like the low voltage is going off. If I ease on the power it starts to get some rev's up and drops away again. Not real shore whats happening with it. The props not that big a jump, I didn't think. When I first put the motor and speedy in I set the timing to 22.50. the boat has run well that way ever since with no problems. Is this to high now maybe. I suspect this may be the problem and have now set it back to 11. for a bit more torque for bigger prop ?? Hopping someone can help and set me on the right path .

[siberianhusky]

2 possibilities.
1- Common problem with these escs is an overly sensitive LVC, solution is to drop the LVC to 3.0v/cell or turn it off and time your runs.
2- Batteries might not be up to the task, what brand, size and C rating. Cheap packs might be dropping enough voltage under the new load to trip the LVC. In this case I wouldn't drop the LVC to 3.0v/cell, would be new better batteries.

There is no industry standard for determining C rating. Some of them are an insult to intelligence in my books, if you attempted to put the claimed amperage through the skinny main power wires they would melt right off .
I'd love to see somebody try to put 500 amps from some of these so called 100C batteries though 12G wire and deans connectors!

[champion221elite]

22.50 degrees is too high for a Leopard 4082. Drop your timing to 11.25 or 15.00 degrees max.

Have you programmed your ESC for running 6s, or are you using the auto calculate function? If you're using the auto calculate, stop doing that and manually program for 6s (or whatever voltage you are running).

Are your batteries up to snuff? I had a set of CRC racing 5300 mah batteries that failed under load last year. They ran fine in my Blackjack 29, but went into LVC mode in my Sprintcat. I removed the LVC setting from the ESC and timed my runs for 2 minutes until I knew how much juice was left in the packs.

[Brushless55]

I agree about dropping your timing .... 7* could be good
and drop your lvc to 3.0v

[scoota666999]

Alright guy's im running 2 x 11.1 50c - 100b 5000 mah from Got To GO RC. I would expect you guy's would know the packs im talking about.
I understand what your saying with regards to lipo's , I can tell you these are the best Ive come across. I killed a number of so called 50c 100 packs. These are the only pack Ive found up to the task and work well. I have just changed the timing from 22.50 to 11.25, and will be testing today. Why would the VLC start to play up now? I only changed the prop, nothing else when the problem started. I am setup on auto calculate for cells. I'm careful to listen to the chimes to make shore the speedy picks up the 6c. Have always run it this way without issue . Is there an advantage to pre setting the esc to 6s? Dose it change anything on the speedy when pre set? I will test it out if I still have an issue I will turn off VLC and try. I might also add I have a Genesis with almost identical setup. I run it exacly the same way (except for timing) with no issues. Im a Nitro offfroad racer, and find the hole brushless lipo technology a bit hard to grasp. It dosn't matter who you talk too or what you read all have different idears on how they work.
Thanks for your advice guys much appreciated.

[Luck as a Constant]

2 possibilities.
1- Common problem with these escs is an overly sensitive LVC, solution is to drop the LVC to 3.0v/cell or turn it off and time your runs.
2- Batteries might not be up to the task, what brand, size and C rating. Cheap packs might be dropping enough voltage under the new load to trip the LVC. In this case I wouldn't drop the LVC to 3.0v/cell, would be new better batteries.!

It seems like these two go hand in hand, because the lvc only seems to cut in prematurely when using batteries that are beat.
New packs are never an issue with the lvc for me....
It's almost like a battery tester lol
I know when packs have had it when the lvc kick in 30 secs into a run haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[champion221elite]

Yes, manually setting the ESC for 6s does make a difference when compared to using auto calculate. For auto calculate to work, the batteries must be in tip top shape and supply in excess of 22.2 volts when you first power up the ESC. Of course, there is voltage sag which causes the voltage to drop under load. Now what happens is the ESC is seeing 18 volts or even less. The ESC then re-calculates voltage for 5s, or even 4s while you're under way.

If you're running a dedicated 6s setup, there is no reason to let the ESC auto calculate. Program it for the voltage you're running and prevent the ESC from trying to "think" for you.

I have a 29" Sprintcat and I'm running the same motor/ esc combo as you. My SK180 v2 is manually programmed as follows... forward only, 6s, 3.2 volt LVC, 11.25 degrees timing. 5300 mah packs give me about 3.5 minutes of running before the lvc cuts in. I time my runs for 3 minutes to keep from hitting the lvc just to be safe.
This boat is good for mid to upper 60's while turning a Y547 prop.

Of course, ymmv running a mono hull which is a whole different animal.

[Brushless55]

Yes, manually setting the ESC for 6s does make a difference when compared to using auto calculate. For auto calculate to work, the batteries must be in tip top shape and supply in excess of 22.2 volts when you first power up the ESC. Of course, there is voltage sag which causes the voltage to drop under load. Now what happens is the ESC is seeing 18 volts or even less. The ESC then re-calculates voltage for 5s, or even 4s while you're under way.
.

I 100% disagree with your comment that the esc will auto calculate after the craft is being run...
One the lipos do not need to be in tip top shape for the esc to work
and your saying that when the packs go down in volts the esc will recalculate the cell count... no it won't
if it did the esc would never reach the LVC and shut down the system
18v on a 6s pack is 3.0v per cell... and with your recalculate idea to then reset to 5s would mean its back upto 3.6v per cell and 4s is 4.5v per cell

the esc auto calculates on initial start up and stays at that determined cell count throughout the run

[scoota666999]

FIXED, Went out for another test today with the timing changed to 11.25. It was a little better but was still doing the same thing. I then went to 3.75 with the timing and it came back to life.
So to me the 42mm prop upgrade was putting to much load on motor or speedy??? with the higher timing. Why???
A 42mm prop is not that big and I would have thought these big 4082 motors would carry it easily ????
thanks for all your help guy's:spy::spy:

[champion221elite]

If you jumped from the stock plastic prop directly to a 42 mm metal prop, that is quite likely an explanation for the extra load on your system. Metal props don't flex like plastic props under load.

[champion221elite]

I 100% disagree with your comment that the esc will auto calculate after the craft is being run...
One the lipos do not need to be in tip top shape for the esc to work
and your saying that when the packs go down in volts the esc will recalculate the cell count... no it won't
if it did the esc would never reach the LVC and shut down the system
18v on a 6s pack is 3.0v per cell... and with your recalculate idea to then reset to 5s would mean its back upto 3.6v per cell and 4s is 4.5v per cell

the esc auto calculates on initial start up and stays at that determined cell count throughout the run

I had a chance to read the manual that came with my SK180 ESC, and you are correct Brushless55. The ESC does measure the voltage only once when the battery is first connected to the esc. I was wrong in my previous post.

The manual does however clearly say they "strongly suggest setting the lipo cell count manually" It further states the battery must be fully charged as a partially discharged battery could allow the Auto Calculate function to get the wrong result. I stand by my previous statement that if you are using the AC function, your battery needs to be in good shape as any significant voltage drop could result in the wrong cell count being selected by the esc.

[Brushless55]

Yes, manually setting the ESC for 6s does make a difference when compared to using auto calculate. For auto calculate to work, the batteries must be in tip top shape and supply in excess of 22.2 volts when you first power up the ESC. Of course, there is voltage sag which causes the voltage to drop under load. Now what happens is the ESC is seeing 18 volts or even less. The ESC then re-calculates voltage for 5s, or even 4s while you're under way.

If you're running a dedicated 6s setup, there is no reason to let the ESC auto calculate. Program it for the voltage you're running and prevent the ESC from trying to "think" for you.

I have a 29" Sprintcat and I'm running the same motor/ esc combo as you. My SK180 v2 is manually programmed as follows... forward only, 6s, 3.2 volt LVC, 11.25 degrees timing. 5300 mah packs give me about 3.5 minutes of running before the lvc cuts in. I time my runs for 3 minutes to keep from hitting the lvc just to be safe.
This boat is good for mid to upper 60's while turning a Y547 prop.

Of course, ymmv running a mono hull which is a whole different animal.


I 100% disagree with your comment that the esc will auto calculate after the craft is being run...
One the lipos do not need to be in tip top shape for the esc to work
and your saying that when the packs go down in volts the esc will recalculate the cell count... no it won't
if it did the esc would never reach the LVC and shut down the system
18v on a 6s pack is 3.0v per cell... and with your recalculate idea to then reset to 5s would mean its back upto 3.6v per cell and 4s is 4.5v per cell

the esc auto calculates on initial start up and stays at that determined cell count throughout the run


I had a chance to read the manual that came with my SK180 ESC, and you are correct Brushless55. The ESC does measure the voltage only once when the battery is first connected to the esc. I was wrong in my previous post.

The manual does however clearly say they "strongly suggest setting the lipo cell count manually" It further states the battery must be fully charged as a partially discharged battery could allow the Auto Calculate function to get the wrong result. I stand by my previous statement that if you are using the AC function, your battery needs to be in good shape as any significant voltage drop could result in the wrong cell count being selected by the esc.

Bro you literally contradicted yourself?
again you are saying the esc will auto calculate when the voltage goes lower during the run after initial start up...
again, it will not do that...

voltage sag will kick in the LVC not make the esc auto calculate cell count during a run.
and not so good lipos will cause the LVC to kick in sooner

and if someone plugs in a completely dead lipo during auto calculate and causes the esc to see a smaller cell count that is user error and not the esc doing any wrong...

all my escs run on auto calculate and never have an issue with them... I also run the LVC disabled as during racing I want a full run and not worrying about a DNF because of LVC kicking in

[Brushless55]

FIXED, Went out for another test today with the timing changed to 11.25. It was a little better but was still doing the same thing. I then went to 3.75 with the timing and it came back to life.
So to me the 42mm prop upgrade was putting to much load on motor or speedy??? with the higher timing. Why???
A 42mm prop is not that big and I would have thought these big 4082 motors would carry it easily ????
thanks for all your help guy's:spy::spy:

with a bigger prop and timing set incorrect the motor can and will pull much to many amps than is need to run
some motors depending on winding want 0-3.75* of timing and different want 11* and more

Y and D windings

glad its running good for you now! :rockon2:

[scoota666999]

Thanks for that Brushless55. I knew the speedy didn't recalculate after initial start up. You only have to listen to it and it tells you how many cells it's picks up. I did end up doing manual cell count by the end of the day . Set and forget I suppose. I left the VLC set at 3.2v . :tiphat::tiphat:
CHEERS BOYS

[iridebikes247]

turn off low voltage protection, time your runs.

I set a little stop watch on my cell phone and run till out of time. That seaking can take a beating, great esc!

[Brushless55]

I have one on a NEU 1527 / 2300kv and it goes like stink!