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View Full Version : Swordfish esc's, do they have reverse?



kfxguy
05-15-2014, 10:50 AM
Does the 220 or 240 have reverse? Is it really worth the money (over 100 bucks more) for the 240 over the 220?

iridebikes247
05-15-2014, 10:57 AM
Idk if they have reverse, although I've owned 5 of em (the 240s).

If you're running that big neu you've got, get the swordfish 240. It is worth it. They have awesome resale value as well. You very very rarely here of people having issues with the 240. The 220/300 I think is a good esc but haven't used it so can't comment.

Think of the sf240 as an investment. You can swap it around boats you want to run higher voltage in for "testing," and whatever. My suggestion is buy a cap bank and build a spark arrestor if going over 6s.

kfxguy
05-15-2014, 11:41 AM
Idk if they have reverse, although I've owned 5 of em (the 240s).

If you're running that big neu you've got, get the swordfish 240. It is worth it. They have awesome resale value as well. You very very rarely here of people having issues with the 240. The 220/300 I think is a good esc but haven't used it so can't comment.

Think of the sf240 as an investment. You can swap it around boats you want to run higher voltage in for "testing," and whatever. My suggestion is buy a cap bank and build a spark arrestor if going over 6s.

Good advice! right now im going to use a fc esc for the 1527. the swordfish esc needs to go in my rivercat on 6s running a 2200kv 1515 castle :flashfire:

kfxguy
05-15-2014, 01:48 PM
Anyone else know?

grsboats
05-15-2014, 04:56 PM
I've been pushing hard my saw rigger with a 1527 1D on 6S with the 240 plus capbank and I can attest they really paid off the investment.Anyway why do you want reverse with a 1527...just curious:confused2: Gill

kfxguy
05-15-2014, 05:19 PM
I've been pushing hard my saw rigger with a 1527 1D on 6S with the 240 plus capbank and I can attest they really paid off the investment.Anyway why do you want reverse with a 1527...just curious:confused2: Gill

Not the 1527....the boat with the 1515. I stated that above lol. All I want to know is if they have reverse. Does someone know? Lol

I have one sport where it's real tight to get the boat back to me and sometimes I need to barely back up. No reverse is a deal breaker for me.

Fella1340
05-16-2014, 01:25 PM
Neither esc has reverse, the choice between the two esc's should be easy. If your running 6s and under the 220 is the way to go. If you want to run up to 12s the 240 is the ticket.
For $20 more you can get the 220pro plus that has data logging. Only $130 each, a good value in my mind. I bought two for my genesis build. I think you should give these esc's a shot. People are turning to modifying the castle esc's for water cooling. I personally don't understand why boaters would bother with a company that has turned its back on boaters. You have no warranty once water cooling is added and no support either. Castle may even encourage water cooling them, why not? They get a sale and have zero responsibility for them. Good deal for them. Buying the swordfish escs here at OSE gives you a vendor that stands behind what he sells and you get a warranty. Two things I think are hugely important given the somewhat unpredictable nature of esc's from any manufacturer. Sometimes you get a bad one. Given the types of boats they are being used in, a lot of SAW boats and many well respected builders choosing them as there budget esc's offerings and the fact the run them in there personal boats to is enough for me. This was a lot more than you asked about but there have been many postings about what to use for esc's and guys modifying this or that when it doesn't make sense when there is a much better alternative that is reasonably priced right here on ose. I have over $700 tied up in sf esc's and can sleep easy knowing that OSE and the supplier both back there products. I hope you find you find what your looking for!

kfxguy
05-16-2014, 03:36 PM
Neither esc has reverse, the choice between the two esc's should be easy. If your running 6s and under the 220 is the way to go. If you want to run up to 12s the 240 is the ticket.
For $20 more you can get the 220pro plus that has data logging. Only $130 each, a good value in my mind. I bought two for my genesis build. I think you should give these esc's a shot. People are turning to modifying the castle esc's for water cooling. I personally don't understand why boaters would bother with a company that has turned its back on boaters. You have no warranty once water cooling is added and no support either. Castle may even encourage water cooling them, why not? They get a sale and have zero responsibility for them. Good deal for them. Buying the swordfish escs here at OSE gives you a vendor that stands behind what he sells and you get a warranty. Two things I think are hugely important given the somewhat unpredictable nature of esc's from any manufacturer. Sometimes you get a bad one. Given the types of boats they are being used in, a lot of SAW boats and many well respected builders choosing them as there budget esc's offerings and the fact the run them in there personal boats to is enough for me. This was a lot more than you asked about but there have been many postings about what to use for esc's and guys modifying this or that when it doesn't make sense when there is a much better alternative that is reasonably priced right here on ose. I have over $700 tied up in sf esc's and can sleep easy knowing that OSE and the supplier both back there products. I hope you find you find what your looking for!

Wonder this...do you think steve would warranty a swordfish esc if i cut shrink wrap off, coat with epoxy and then re heat shrink it? If i dont, its going to get wet. Im hard headed and I dont want to muck with taping up my boat.

Fella1340
05-16-2014, 10:40 PM
Well, think that your going to be having lots of esc problems in your future. You might want to epoxy and heat shrink your motor and battery connections together to. There going to be a problem point with that much water getting in there to. Maybe try bedding the hatch opening in silicone and put some saran wrap over it, set your hatch down firmly but not all the way down and let it dry. If theres still enough left for your thumb screws to compress it it just might work. That's the best I got.
If not taping my hull was costing me hundreds of dollars I'd rethink things a bit.