Purple Light Super Hawaii Knock Off build

[boater76]

Well I have finally started my build of my Purple Light Super Hawaii knock off boat. I have cut the molded in electronics area out to access transom. I will add 1/4 inch ply to beef up the transom. When I gained access in the interior part of the transom there was a piece of plastic glued to beef up the transom. I have to get some 30 min epoxy and denatured alcohol today and install the ply. I will have pics later of what I have done so far.

Ken

[Drunken Pirate]

Ken

Is this the boat you have been talking about on how to secure 1/4" ply?

[steveo]

1/8 " should be fine 1/4" is to heavy, if you want more support set up some stringers to tie into the transom

[boater76]

I've already got the 1/4 prepped to install. I got some help from SJFE. I would rather be safe than sorry. What are stringers? I'll get a couple pics up today for sure.

Ken

[boater76]

Got the rest of my parts today. I got Speedmaster Stinger strut and Speedmaster 21 rudder, 40mm prop, servo holder. I will put a couple of pics up tommorrow for sure. I know I am lagging behind.

Ken

[boater76]

Ok I finally got up off my butt and got a few pics today. I drilled the holes for the Stinger Strut, Rudder assembly, and the water hose intake in the transom. I also added Great Stuff expanding foam in the hull to stiffen and strengthen it. In one spot I added too much and made the hull bow out a little bit. Fortunately I was able to remove the excess foam that was making the bow. I also drilled holes in the rear bulk area for the water line. I make a cut in the front area of the boat to put foam in there and on the side I added a hole for the water outlet and a larger one on the inside to access it. I have to get some wood so I can raise my motor mount up a bit this week because the mount is too low and the motor can sits on the interior hull. After I add the wood and drill the holes for the motor mount I am going to paint the boat. I also have to order a correct size coupler for the motor/flex cable, because the one that came with the motor I got from someone was too small for the cable. I will add update as I go. Enjoy!

Ken

[Doozie870]

This is great, keep the pics coming. Everybody keeps telling me "why dont you buy a real race boat" my anwser is simple, I enjoy doing the conversions and experimenting a little, if its not the new fad I could care less.:D

[LJH]

B76,
Saw your post about the expanding foam and how it added a bit of weight. Don't worry about it, on my Cesa I ended up adding about three oz of lead shot, in the nose, to get the CG a little closer to where it should be. The boat is much happier now, still very loose with the rocker in the hull but does much better when there is wind and waves.


Cheers,
Jim

[boater76]

Ok I added my steering servo mount yesterday. I used a piece of 1/4 ply and OSE standard servo mount. I used Loctite Marine Epoxy to seal up the wood. I will add some Devcon epoxy to the part where it attaches to the hull for a little more strength. I like the hull overall. I like to tinker with stuff too. Theres nothing wrong with improving and modifying cheap stuff. Plus its good when on a limited budget too.

Ken

[SJFE]

Looking good. Keep up the good work man. Every ones on a budget...moneys not the only factor..Time is just as important.

[LJH]

I don't know if the PL has the rocker that the Cesa has but I have done a mod that was easy, though time consuming, that works really well too stop the porposing. Between the keel and the first strake I glued in two pieces of thin (1/16"?) styreen right at the transom. I then mixed up some epoxy with lots of micro balloons and spread it on in front of the styreen. I let it cure and then sanded down the epoxy and faired it into the styreen. Basicly I built up the bottom of the boat and removed the rocker. I ran it for the first time today and it definatly helped....maybe too much as I was running a little wet now (something that I would never think I would say with this hull) I will play with the trim of the strut to see what I can come up with but if I removed too much rocker I can just sand more epoxy and styreen away. Once the wife gets home I will take some pics of what I did.


Cheers,
Jim

[boater76]

I added 2 pieces of basswood to add some height for my motor mount because without it the motor can sits on the interior hull. I used 2 brass screws and marine epoxy to seal it and glue it.

Ken

[boater76]

I painted the hull and the deck lid. I screwed up the paint on the deck lid so I have to strip it. The hull came out great. I hope to have it all done next week sometime.

Ken

[boater76]

Well not much to say. Nothing else done yet. I have been very busy. I will get some pics up this week of painted hull. I plan to get some stuff mounted this week too.

Ken

[boater76]

Well I hoped to get alot more done this weekend but didnt work that way. I was hoping to get the tube, cable, and motor installed etc. I had a hell of a time with the solder that was already on the 700 when I got it from another user. I took everything off for the brush cooling on it. So I have to get new capacitors I guess and brass tubes. I have to bend the tube in the right direction towards the motor. What's the best way to do it without screwing up? Also does it matter if the motor is mounted on an angle to meet the tube and shaft? I also soldered on a deans on the Jeti 600 to hook to the motor. I installed a water pickup that came with the cooling sleeve with the motor that im going to hook that to the esc. I'll get picks up later.

Ken

[pompebled]

Hi Ken,

I've been reading along until now, you're doing great!

I have a tip to solder on the brushtab cooling pipes and the capacitors and the leads, without things fall of everytime you put a soldering iron to it...

Here's how I do it:

- I modified a wooden washpeg like in the picture, this enables me to clamp things onto the connectors on the motor and have access with the tip of my soldering iron.
- I make the motor connector strips curved, with a pair of round beak pliers, so it follows the rounding of the brass cooling pipe.
- I lightly tin all items to be soldered onto the connectors.
- Clamp the brass pipe in position with the washpeg and heat it quickly with a 100 W soldering iron (speed is important, as you don't want the entire brushholder inside the motor to become very hot, by 'baking' too long with a small soldering iron, causing the brushholders to loose strength).
- Position the capacitors, by folding one leg over the pipe, clamp and solder, don't forget to insulate the legs from the motorcan.
- Position the pre-tinned motorlead, clamp and solder.
- Solder the two remaining caps end onto the can.

Repeat it for the other brushtab and admire your work...

Regards, Jan.

[boater76]

Now why didn't I think of that before..arggg! I used to build plastic models and used clothespins all the time to hold small parts that I needed to paint. Next time I will remember. Thanks.

Ken

[boater76]

Well I finally got the boat built. It took be long enough. It's tough when ya work and come home and have to deal with a wife who watches 5 kids and deal with the bs the kids cause and so forth lol. I will get picks up in the morning plus more details of the build.

Ken

[pompebled]

Hi Ken,

Tell me about it...., some of my models are taking years to get ready, the quicker builds stretch over several weeks, some parts are made in an hour, the same part may take days, when you have to deal with other stuff than boating....

Pleas find the time to post some pics of your finished boat.

Regards, Jan.

[boater76]

Here is some I am going to put up the rest now.

[boater76]

Ok here is the rest. The boat was primered, painted with gloss Key Lime, and clear coated with Rustoleum Painter's Choice. It has Speedmaster Stinger strut, Speedmaster 21 rudder with h20 pickup, Octura .150 flex cable and prop shaft for 3/16th, Futaba 3003 standard servo, Futaba 75mhz am receiver, Jeti Jes 600 speed controller, OSE 700SC motor, cooling jacket, silicone tubing and Octura water outlet. It will be powered by 14 GP3300. The batteries were gotten dirt cheap from some auctions a couple of months ago. There were like 4 6 cell packs. I made 2 of them into 7 cell packs. I checked the packs after I built em up and was suprised of the voltage after sitting from the time that I got them til built up the packs, and who knows how long they were sitting before I got them. I checked them this morning and one was over 7.9 and the other was over 8.8 I plan to tub test today and go boating tommorrow.

Ken

[boater76]

I tub tested the boat and no leaks. Tommorrow I will take it out for the maiden voyage.

Ken

[pompebled]

Hi Ken,

That looks impressive!

Nice watercooling on the 700.
Did you make sure the cooling slots on the motormountside are free, circulating air through the armature is cruicial.

The 0,9V difference between the packs could indicate a cell (or two) on the point of failure.
On the other side, the packs may just need a few cycles to get up to full power again.
If you can, charge the packs as they are used, connected in series, to prevent the packs from drifting apart ' Ah wise'.

What prop do you run?

Good luck on your maiden!

Regards, Jan.

[boater76]

I ran it today. It seemed like the packs died fast. I didn't have the boat at full throttle much. It seemed like after a couple of minutes it slowed way down. I started with a 40mm carbon prop.

Ken

[pompebled]

Sadly, that's typical for one or more dead cells.

If you have side by side packs, it's easy to pick the dead ones by using a volt meter on each individual cell after the pack has been run.

If the Voltmeter doesn't show it without load, connect the 14,4V pack to a car lightbulb and quickly measure every cell, the weak ones will almost immediately drop in Voltage.

Remove and replace.

Remember to give the 'new' pack an equalizing charge of 1A or less before running it.

Regards, Jan.

[fastbaltek]

WHERE DID YOU GET THIS BOAT??? i need to know. i want one. link?

[boater76]

I got mine off of ebay.

Ken

[Craig]

Will need some trim tabs and turn fins. My buddy has a purple light as his first. We used it as a learning boat. I still love my Super Hawaii, it handles way better with them. C

[boater76]

Been awhile since ive been on here. I finally got the boat out for the second time. I got a couple of electrifly 3600 8.4v packs from tower hobbies. Boy did that thing fly with new batterys. My hatch got blown off. My dumb fault. I didn't tap the hatch on all the way. The only problem I have is water gets in and dont know where. It is alway in the back of the hull.

Ken

[Craig]

I have had the same prob with mine. It comes in up by the motor. Im sure it is the cooling jacket. Too much pressure. Try running your cooling lines out the side and dont hook up your motor cooler. Run it 2 laps then check for water. Good job on the build. C

[boater76]

Its not coming from the jacket. It seems to be coming in somewhere at the rear. I chopped the hell out of the inner hull. I had removed the whole molded in radio gear box, and below that is where all the water is. I will have to tape the hatch up better or something else. I also have a problem with the teflon tub not staying put. It always goes back. I think I might just epoxy the sucker in place. I am also going to try a 42mm prop and see what that does. I had run a 40 in for the first 2 times.

[Craig]

Go with the x445 prop. You will be happy with it. Put a sponge in the back and run it one lap and check to see what kind of water is in there. As far as the teflon tube, are you talking about the one in the drive line? I stuffed it in there till it bottomed out and then cut it up by the motor. I have about 1/2 inch hanging out. Make sure you tape the hatch all of the way around. Narrow down the prob it can be on the water leak. C