TFL Ariane CF and FG hulls [Archive] - Offshore Electrics Forums

flraptor07

12-24-2013, 04:21 PM

WooHoo!! mine arrived yesterday (Christmas Eve).

I will be running it on 6s, but I set it up last night with a TFL 4092 2100kv motor for 4s running. Just for a bit of fun over the holidays.

Thanks Monica. It did make it for Christmas.

That's great!! You're gonna really like this boat! The only thing that you will need to do is put bigger turn fins on it if you're going to race it on a oval course.

785boats

12-24-2013, 05:55 PM

Thanks.
That was one of my first thoughts when I unpacked it. Our race lake gets pretty windy & choppy, so that will happen when we go testing on 6s up there in the new year.

kenrid

12-24-2013, 07:58 PM

Hello 785. Does your boat have the TFL hardware (two part flex shaft, teflon insert etc?) and if so, do you think it will withstand 6S? On 6S, what motor are you planning to use?

flraptor07

12-24-2013, 09:41 PM

Hello 785. Does your boat have the TFL hardware (two part flex shaft, teflon insert etc?) and if so, do you think it will withstand 6S? On 6S, what motor are you planning to use?

Mine has the 3/16 two piece shaft and I'm running 6s, so far so good. Just lube it after every time out and you shouldn't have any problem.

785boats

12-25-2013, 05:01 PM

Hello 785. Does your boat have the TFL hardware (two part flex shaft, teflon insert etc?) and if so, do you think it will withstand 6S? On 6S, what motor are you planning to use?
Kendrid.
No. Mine came with the welded shaft. You just have to specify that with your order with TFL.
I had discussions with May at TFL some months ago pointing out that most people would prefer welded shafts in all their boats. Stressing the point that the greasing of the shaft is easier & didn't upset the fine adjustments of struts & stingers. Their managers response was , understandably, that a broken shaft or weld would result in a lost prop. That's why they developed the two part system some years ago. But, within a week or so I had an Email back from May at TFL, stating that they would now offer the welded shafts. Magic. The ones I've received in boats so far have been straight & true & of good quality.

I don't know if the two part ones will take the stress of a 6s setup. Never tried it, so I can't comment accurately on that. But 'flraptor07' has it working for him. I'm sure he will let us know if it fails.

The motor I will be trying on 6s is the one that I raced in the 41" Osprey this year. A TP Power 4092 1350kv,
http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47_45&products_id=1348

Cheers.
Paul.

785boats

12-25-2013, 05:37 PM

Flraptor07.
You were right. I do love it.
The first run was very wet I had to get the battery right back to the motor where the ESC should be & it was still nose heavy. But with a bit of positive strut adjustment & raising the tabs & turn fins it lifted the nose & got some air under it. I don't know what the weight of a 6s pack will do. We'll see in the new year.
My hull does have a slight hook in the last 6" or so of the hull but at least it's even on both sides. Does anyone else have the same?
I found it to be extremely stable in the turns at full noise, on our tight little track at Boondall. Should be great on our race track at Lakeside Raceway.

So here's a couple of pics & A video of the latest addition to the Wet Track Racing fleet on its third run yesterday.

Cheers.
Paul.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70R4K0dr7os

Brushless55

12-26-2013, 12:02 AM

Thanks for the video Paul !
I have seen these several months ago at Hobbyking and thought it could be a cool hull to replace my DF33 :biggrin:
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__43042__Ariane_2_Carbon_Fiber_Offshore_Brushless_ Racing_Boat_w_Motor_930mm_.html

Doby

12-26-2013, 12:06 AM

Watch out for the duck!

flraptor07

12-26-2013, 11:26 AM

Looks good Paul! As far as the hook goes I have the Carbon Fiber version and there is no hook at all in it. They doo these things production and probably have more than one mold or maybe it got pulled to soon.

785boats

12-26-2013, 12:18 PM

Hey Todd.
A good choice but at 36" it really needs 6s. I've just built up a 33" Cyberstorm for 4s racing next year & this one might replace the 41" Osprey for 6s if it handles the wind & the chop well enough.

Doby.
I can assure you, no ducks were harmed in the making of this film.:smile: That first pass, I was just trying to scare it off the track. But they are so used to us that it just slowly swam to the bank.

flraptor
I figured that it was pulled from the mold too soon. It's not too bad really, & the nose still stays up in the turns so it's not worth filling like I've had to do with some boats.

Varooom

12-26-2013, 02:56 PM

Mine arrived christmas eve also. I have the cf version, all looks straight and true.

I did notice the rudder has the water hole on the wrong side. It will not get any water turning right. Hole is on the inboard side of the rudder, how is yours?

Does anyone make a rudder that will fit the TFL hardware?

Thanks Monica for super fast shipping.

thanks,
varooom

Mike Caruso

12-26-2013, 04:00 PM

flraptor07

12-26-2013, 04:57 PM

Did you run yours yet?
Yup Mike I sure did, I got a vid of the first time out with a little motor in it cause I got a bad 4092 right out of the box so I stuck a Tacon 4074 2200kv in it just to run it I had a little issue with the buoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQKBkZttAfY&feature=youtu.be

Brushless55

12-26-2013, 06:24 PM

anyone have a bare weight on the hull alone?

ron1950

12-26-2013, 07:32 PM

what does a fg version cost anyway I like em with the stern hardware id put in the rest ...

flraptor07

12-26-2013, 09:17 PM

what does a fg version cost anyway I like em with the stern hardware id put in the rest ...

Not sure on the FG one Ron, Give Monica a shout at kwl@tflhobby.com tell her what you want and she'll get you a price also NAMBA members get a discount and tell her you're from the forum

Mike Caruso

12-26-2013, 10:37 PM

Yup Mike I sure did, I got a vid of the first time out with a little motor in it cause I got a bad 4092 right out of the box so I stuck a Tacon 4074 2200kv in it just to run it I had a little issue with the buoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQKBkZttAfY&feature=youtu.be
Thanks nice save LOL I was wondering how it ran with the flat bottom.

flraptor07

12-26-2013, 11:25 PM

Thanks nice save LOL I was wondering how it ran with the flat bottom.
I think overall it ran really nice, I've had it out since with a Neu 1521 1.5D 1860kv and it ran much better. Now I've put some bigger turn fins on it and I have a Neu 1527 1Y 1250kv coming for it, so it should be right where it needs to be next time out.:thumbup:

Mike Caruso

12-26-2013, 11:58 PM

Congrats man enjoy really sounds good.

Monica Smith

12-27-2013, 12:41 AM

Dear Paul,

You are absolutely welcome in TFL! You gave us a lot helpful suggestion for spare parts. Here is appreciation for you!

I am glad that you got your Christmas present in your hands in time!

Monica Smith

Monica Smith

12-27-2013, 12:48 AM

Dear Doug,

You are welcome! I just done what a sales should do for her customers! I just thought if your Ariane could be caught the time to reach your home, maybe will give you a surprise and you will have a wonderful Christmas present this year!

I am glad that your Ariane did it.

Monica Smith

Monica Smith

12-27-2013, 12:51 AM

Dear Chris,

Thank you for sharing Ariane with us!

Monica Smith

785boats

12-27-2013, 01:09 AM

Yeah, nice one flraptor.... 9.5 points for execution & 10 points for style.

Varoom.
The pickup on the rudder works fine in the corners. I know that intuition says it shouldn't but it does. There are many rudders with the pickup on that side. I have them on other boats too. Some even have one on each side at the same point.

Todd.
If you are thinking of getting one go direct to Monica either here at OSE or at TFL. That way you can custom order it with what you want.
I simply ordered mine without the motor or ESC or prop. But with all the hardware & a welded 3/16 shaft. Then ordered a couple of motors & jackets for other projects & they were packed in with the hull.

Monica.
Thanks for those kind words & thanks for the Christmas present.

Cheers
Paul.

Monica Smith

12-27-2013, 01:16 AM

Hi Paul,

Thank you for pointing out the slight hook of your Ariane hull! I will keep this point in mind and remind our workers pay attention to this!

Monica Smith

785boats

12-27-2013, 01:27 AM

I'm glad to say that it's not anywhere near as bad as some that I've had to deal with, & I don't believe it upsets the handling at all.
All the best.
Paul.

785boats

01-13-2014, 02:24 AM

I managed to get a 6s run in on the weekend, thanks to the guys at the North Coast club up at Sippy Downs. Great bunch of Modelers.
This was it's first run with a 446/3 cut down to a 443 & de-tongued. Other runs on the day were with the full 446/3 & it was certainly quicker & just as stable.
The temps were still fine so I'll try the 447/3 next time. I'm hoping to work up to a 450/3 as a race set up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGcafEWd7gQ

flraptor07

01-13-2014, 11:39 AM

Sweet running boat, I love mine! Are you still running stock turn fins? If you are, build some about 2 1/2 times the size and it will get rid of the flopping on hard cornering. Made a big difference in mine.......

785boats

01-13-2014, 01:12 PM

flraptor07

01-13-2014, 01:38 PM

Thanks.
Yep. Still the stock fins. I do have the next size up on order. But 2 1/2 times the stock ones would have them dragging in the water along the straights. The ones on mine are 2 3/4" long. The size I have on order are 4" & I'll have to lay them back a bit to keep them out of the water in the straights. Maybe yours came with smaller fins than mine, originaly.

Cheers.
Paul.

LOL Not quite that long, they're not in the water on the straights.The ones mine came with are 2 5/8" total and only about 1 3/4" in the water on turns. They were those little tear drop shaped ones. I finally got the motor I wanted, I just put a Neu 1527 1Y 1250kv in it. Haven't tried it yet but it should run good.

785boats

01-13-2014, 02:06 PM

ray schrauwen

01-13-2014, 02:21 PM

It's odd hearing setups from Aus area because yo run 1P only setups. How many cells do you run the 1527 1Y on in a 1/8th scale??

785boats

01-13-2014, 02:50 PM

Yep 1p limits our prop sizes a bit if we don't want to kill the packs regularly.
I'm running 8s with a 446/3 prop. Mine's the U-95.

ray schrauwen

01-13-2014, 03:51 PM

Very cool, thanks for sharing.

Just flipped out of the wheelchair, that hurts... so does getting back in again... I feel old.

flraptor07

01-13-2014, 06:34 PM

I've only got one of those 1527 1Y motors & it's staying in my 1/8 scale hydro. The TP Power 1350kv motor is the next best thing that I have so that will stay in the Ariane.
What prop are you figuring to settle on?
I'm guessing it's going to be about a X448 or maybe a X648. I've got a 1/8 scale sport hydro but I'm running a bit more power than yours, it's got a Leopard 5698 910kv on 10s......:scared: :biggrin:

785boats

01-14-2014, 12:52 AM

Very cool, thanks for sharing.

Just flipped out of the wheelchair, that hurts... so does getting back in again... I feel old.

Easy man. How did you manage that?
I'm always amazed at your boating skills considering what you have to put up with. Take care.

flraptor.

The X448 sounds like a good prop. But I find that the '6' pitch props have a bit too much lift for a mono. Maybe the water is different in Oz:laugh:
I bought a 5698 1100kv motor to run in my 1/8th, but I couldn't fit the ESC in then. Very limited space in the front of mine.

flraptor07

01-14-2014, 09:28 AM

flraptor.

The X448 sounds like a good prop. But I find that the '6' pitch props have a bit too much lift for a mono. Maybe the water is different in Oz:laugh:
I bought a 5698 1100kv motor to run in my 1/8th, but I couldn't fit the ESC in then. Very limited space in the front of mine.[/QUOTE]

The 6 pitch props you tried on the mono, were they detounged ? I'm sure you know that detounging will take lift out of the prop

785boats

01-15-2014, 06:12 AM

Come to think of it, I'm not sure if the ones I tried were the 'M' series or de-tongued. It was a while ago.
I guess I should try a few.

IRON-PAWW

05-23-2014, 01:28 AM

Building up one of these at the moment. Got a Swordfish 240 for it and a TP Pro comp 1690kv. Going to run 2 x 3s batts. I too have the stock turn fins...... You guys say go bigger? Seems the sharp end fins are bad mouthed by some..... You guys using flat bottom ones? What motor mounting solutions you guys using for the bigger motors. The TP is 40mm so.... Can't use the rear 36mm mounting ring that came in mine. Was just going to support the motor at the back with a bit of ply etc glued to the hull, along with the 36mm front end which'll fit the TP.

skeeler

07-09-2014, 02:30 PM

I'm very interested in the boat. It might be my next project. One ignorant question:

I have number of 4S batteries about, but no 2S batts of the appropriate capacity. Is this hull too small to build up with an 8S setup? If not, what motor Kv and prop would you experienced folk recommend?

Thanks.

785boats

07-31-2014, 02:27 PM

Didn't notice these last couple of posts. Sorry that no one answered you guys.

IRON-PAWW.
I've changed my turn fins to larger ones & cut the bottoms off to make them flat. They certainly hold better in the corners.
You can buy a single 40mm ring & make upa couple of brackets T glass them into the hull.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80600-RC
Or one of these with the brackets already made.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-83005

Skeeler.
This hull is probably a bit small for 8s but it is doable. maybe a 4082 with a kv around 1100- 1250.

Here's mine on 6s with a 1600kv motor & an X646/3 blade prop with a Seaking 180A ESC. Still testng at the moment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5596xnRs6s&list=UUmckFCp5vHpw83p9Hn-l1hg

flraptor07

07-31-2014, 04:04 PM

That's lookin pretty good, did you do any work to the prop other than S&B?

skeeler

08-01-2014, 01:42 PM

Thanks for your reply. Yeah, I figured 8S would be overkill.

785boats

08-03-2014, 07:48 PM

That's lookin pretty good, did you do any work to the prop other than S&B?

I only backcut it about 1mm at the hub. Might de-tongue it a bit next.

IRON-PAWW

09-02-2014, 11:28 AM

Ok - ran it for the first time the other day. Tp Pro Comp 4060 1690kv. 6s. 2 x 3s Entropy 5800's mounted either side of motor. RCBB dual pickup rudder, which is the same length as the stock rudder. Single drive cable. The problem I have is that once I get up a little speed the boat leans (rolls) to the right. Gets slightly worse as it goes faster but not drastically so. Noted the rudder was slightly angled in toward the transom - could that cause the roll?? Ran it with M445 as a first run test. Tried a 3 blade prop another club member had with no change to the roll effect. Suggestions?

msundsd5

09-02-2014, 04:45 PM

flraptor07

09-03-2014, 05:31 PM

I have one of these hulls (It's my Avatar Picture) and I experience the same problem when getting up to speed. The back end wants to wobble around and lean back and forth when getting up to about 55mph - 60 mph. Any suggestions from those of you who seem to have figured that out? I put a slower system in it to tame it but I want SPEED!!! HA HAAAAAAAAA
I have mine set up with a TP 4070 1770kv on 6s 2p one pack on each side of the motor and about 1/2 ahead with a SF 240 pro+ in the middle just ahead of the motor running a Prather 230 stainless which is a little over 48.5mm. I have the stock trim tabs with the inside pair set neutral and the outside pair about 1deg. down and I put some Aquacraft Rio 51 turn fins on it and the stinger is set neutral also. With that setup it runs a little over 65mph GPS and it runs like its on rails with no wobbleing or leaning, it's one of my favorite boats.

785boats

09-03-2014, 05:44 PM

Hi guys.
That is known as Chine Walking. A lot of boats with the flat ride pad can do that.
I have some slight positive angle on the strut to help plant he rear of the boat. About one degree is all.
The leading edge of the rudder angled back a couple of degrees.
The outside trim tabs have the trailing edges touching a straight edge that is held along the bottom of the hull.
The inside trim tabs are parallel with the straight edge.
COG is at 270mm 11-1/2") from the transom.
The turn fins I replaced with larger ones and cut the bottoms off. But that was to help in the turns. Nothing to do with Chine Walk. The fins should be out of the water in the straights.
Scuff the shine off the bottom of the hull with some 400 paper.
And make sure the prop is thin & sharp. If it won't cut your finger it won't cut the water. A blunt prop goes a long way to starting the whole Chine Walk oscillation thing.

I'm not saying that those things will work on your boats, but it works on mine. Each boat is different & you will still have to tune it a bit to match your weight, prop & revs etc.
I hope other boaters chime in with some set up tips too.
A quick pic of the inside of mine & the transom if it's any help. Although the pics are deceiving in regards to the rudder blade. It actually leans back a bit more than it seems in the pics.
Cheers.
Paul.

785boats

09-03-2014, 06:07 PM

I have mine set up with a TP 4070 1770kv on 6s 2p one pack on each side of the motor and about 1/2 ahead with a SF 240 pro+ in the middle just ahead of the motor running a Prather 230 stainless which is a little over 48.5mm. I have the stock trim tabs with the inside pair set neutral and the outside pair about 1deg. down and I put some Aquacraft Rio 51 turn fins on it and the stinger is set neutral also. With that setup it runs a little over 65mph GPS and it runs like its on rails with no wobbleing or leaning, it's one of my favorite boats.

Looks like you posted while I was taking the pics of the transom.:laugh: Very similar set ups. /
Except you have the extra weight of two packs Most likely the reason for the difference in Strut angle.

IRON-PAWW

09-04-2014, 11:01 AM

Ok- my issue isn't chine walking. My Spartan does that in spades so I'm very familiar with it :). My issue is more like torque roll. At rest the boat sits perfectly. Slower speeds no issue. When I start to pick up a little speed the boat begins to lean to the right hand side, and stays leaning to the right hand side until I slow down. Now - will a rudder that slopes in toward the transom cause this? So - the tip of the rudder is closer to the transom than say at the hinge? I noticed mine was slightly angled this way - now I have it set pretty much as 785 shows in his pic. But not tested yet with that change made.

flraptor07

09-04-2014, 01:28 PM

Looks like you posted while I was taking the pics of the transom.:laugh: Very similar set ups. /
Except you have the extra weight of two packs Most likely the reason for the difference in Strut angle.
Yes Paul, our trim tab settings are identical and I'm sure you're right about the stinger setting being because of the packs. What prop are you running?

785boats

09-04-2014, 06:12 PM

IRON-PAWW.
I guess the Chine walk description was aimed more at msndsd5.
But your torque roll problem could also be the prop. As I recall the M445 props are pretty thick out of the mould & require quite a lot of thinning while sharpening & balancing them. Thick props blunt can cause a lot of torque roll.
With the rudder, when viewed from behind the boat, is it perfectly vertical with the vertical centre line of the boat? A rudder angled sideways can cause a boat to lean a bit. It doesn't take much.
It's best if the rudders' leading edge is level with the front of the prop too. This can have some effect on negating torque steer & roll.
The only other thing is the trim tabs. Are they the same on both sides of the boat when measured with a straight edge on the bottom of the hull? If so, maybe screw down the right hand tab a fraction more.
If all the above are fine & true & level etc you could try balancing the hull with the batteries.
If your packs are either side of the motor maybe move the right hand battery in as close as possible to the keel & the left one out a bit to help counteract the roll.
I can't think of anything else.

flraptor.
The X446/3 blade prop is still the best one for my setup. Finishes the race with between 28-32% left in the pack. Sort of just enough for a penalty lap if I jump the start.
Thanks for reminding me. I need to de-tongue it before practice on Sunday. Just to see how much difference it makes. Hopefully it will gain a bit of speed & put a few milliamps back in the tank:smile:

Cheers.
Paul.

flraptor07

09-04-2014, 08:01 PM

IRON-PAWW.

flraptor.
The X446/3 blade prop is still the best one for my setup. Finishes the race with between 28-32% left in the pack. Sort of just enough for a penalty lap if I jump the start.
Thanks for reminding me. I need to de-tongue it before practice on Sunday. Just to see how much difference it makes. Hopefully it will gain a bit of speed & put a few milliamps back in the tank:smile:

Cheers.
Paul.

Yeah now that you mention it I remember we talked about de-tongueing before and you said you were going to try it for a little speed and to take some lift out. The old brain still does work a little...:blink: :laugh:

msundsd5

09-05-2014, 07:13 AM

Thank you so much fellas, this is some very useful information. I will be trying some things over the next couple weeks so I will chime back in on this thread in a couple weeks to let you know how it's going! Your awesome! I have been trying to get this boat to ride right for Sooooooooo longer and it seems to be on the only boat of mine not in the 60's, 70's, 80's, or 90's.... Highest I got it up to was 58 mph before I threw in the tile cause I needed a break from it. I LOVE the hull and am excited to get back at it again!!!

kenrid

09-07-2014, 07:58 AM

IRON-PAWW: The 3 blade we tried last week was in fact an Octura X646/3. I have since spent more time sharpening and balancing it. I was quite happy with my first sail, also note I am using the stock rudder with single water pick up whereas the RCBB is much wider. Given we are running a two 3S @5800mAh configuration, obviously we need to experiment with more props. An excellent hull, with great turning characteristics, congratulations to TFL. I am sure we can push over 105 km/hr (65mph) out of this one.

Paul: - X446/3 does not appear to be an Octura? Have I missed something?

785boats

09-07-2014, 08:02 PM

No, the 4614 I was using was a CNC prop

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=cnc-4614350

But this is the 646/3 I have on it now.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-x646%2F3

Steve has them already sharpened & balanced in the "Sharpened & Balanced" section on his props pace if you want to save yourself some work.

IRON-PAWW

09-09-2014, 10:21 AM

Paul,

Thanks for your reply. I think you pretty much summed up all I could read about torque roll - and torque roll-related issues, which was ace man. Cheers.

First comment I think is that the M445 is a Dasboata S+B prop I happened to have in my toolbox. Got a M545 in there too but I'm really just testing with those at the moment. I do actually have a CnC 4614 (2 blade) though I just noticed. Have a S+B Octura 646/3 coming from OSE though too, along with the 3 blade CNC 4614350. So - plenty to test with there. I actually got the same-ish torque roll issues with Kenrid's 646/3.

Another thought. I seem to remember someone mentioning torque roll issues possibly related to thrust bearings?? I do have a thrust bearing fitted - a possible issue?

Another factor - The hull is definitely hooked on both sides, from the transom to about 10-15cm back. Very noticeable when I place a straight edge there. As long as the hook is more or less the same on both sides this shouldn't be an issue right?

Could there be something going on with that bigger RCBB rudder? Sits tight with only a shade of slop.

In any case - took some pics of what I've got.

So yeah - I'm pretty sure the rudder isn't exactly square. No matter how I look at it - or what rudder I fit, I think the rudder mount is slightly off. Surely though this wouldn't make the roll get worse with speed would it? Like the roll caused by the woof in the rudder would be constant wouldn't it?
http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t373/adamstr/Ariane1_zps43a77049.jpg

This is pretty much what you mean by the rudders' leading edge is level with the front of the prop? However, add the gap for flex wind up.
http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t373/adamstr/Ariane2_zps4ffadd78.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t373/adamstr/Ariane3_zpsefde19e3.jpg

785boats

09-09-2014, 04:49 PM

With the hooks, if the nose is being forced down onto the water by them you may need to move your packs back a bit to get it off the water.

If the rudder is leaning to the side, you should straighten it up. It looks as if the bottom is over to the left a bit? but that could be the perspective of the photo.
The effects of water on all surfaces is a cube of the speed. So, as the speed increases the drag is cubed in relation to the speed. So yes, the faster you go the worse the effects.
The size of the rudder is fine. You need a bit of depth for authority in choppy conditions.

I would either raise the left trim tab or lower the right trim tab if that doesn't fix it. But move the weight (batteries/ESC) to the left a bit first.

I've never heard that a thrust washer would induce torque roll before. Bit if it did, it would be in the other direction anyway. To the left, as a product of friction from the direction that the shaft is spinning.

In the pics, there doesn't seem to be any gap at all between the drive dog & strut. Is that a two part square drive shaft in there? It looks too tight even for that. Could just be the photo.
If it is a welded flex, then there needs to be at least a 3 - 4mm gap there.

All the best.
Paul.

IRON-PAWW

09-12-2014, 02:09 AM

That is a 1 piece welded flex cable. I just shoved it back in to take the pics. I do leave a gap when running the boat.

There really isn't much in it at all but yes - the rudder is misaligned slightly to the left. Removed the whole assembly last night and cleaned off the glue - and was able to make it better but still a shade off. Looks like a slight manufacturing fault where the mounting screws go through at an odd angle, making the end result different to how you lined things up. Needs re-drilling to correct it I think. Unless someone has a method of bending rudder assembly's slightly to correct such issues?

Hopefully another test in the next few days.

Could the old silicone tube over the end of the stuffing tube to prevent water ingress affect torque roll? Not that it seems to on my other boats. Just.... this one seems very sensitive to it. Anyway...will test with some changes as suggested.

IRON-PAWW

09-15-2014, 10:00 AM

Small update. Torque roll issues solved. Fairly certain it was a bad drive collet. When I spun the prop by hand with everything connected there was a noticeable wobble on the flex before it disappeared into the stuffing tube. Not good. Replacing the collet fixed this, and the boat now runs without a single hint of torque roll. WOT is super stable and I could finally see how nice this hull is to run.

785boats

09-15-2014, 03:18 PM

Well there ya go.
All those tuning tips & it came down to that.
Well done. I'll store that one in the memory banks.
But did you change anything else too?

flraptor07

09-15-2014, 08:09 PM

That's awsome, I knew it would probably be something simple. As nice as mine and Paul's Ariane run, I couldn't see how your's could be that bad. I'm glad you got it figured out!

IRON-PAWW

09-17-2014, 01:43 AM

Cheers lads! It did seem a little odd - particularly since another member at my club had a very similar setup. Soon as I noticed the issue I had a suspicion it was the cause of the torque roll.

I was able to straighten the rudder somewhat by re-seating it, then just adjusted the trim tabs and strut to as neutral a position as possible. Hardly changed anything there though, so pretty sure the collet was the culprit.

msundsd5

11-10-2014, 09:30 AM

After a year of struggling to get this boat to ride and only topping out at 55mph several times with the most unstable attitude, I finally have her dialed in riding smooth and increased mph by 10 up to 65.1 mph yesterday!!! This is a SEXY Hull and it looks even sexier when she rides nice, I'm so stoked!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hMHvMBrAHM

785boats

11-10-2014, 04:32 PM

Well done.
I've never set a boat up for "point & shoot" runs on smooth water. Only ever ovals in choppy water.
I'll have to give it a try some time.

ADxRC

09-06-2017, 05:34 AM

Hello everyone, new here. I know this thread was started a few years ago, but I was wondering where you guys purchased your 3/16 one piece flex shaft. Also how long is the flex shaft of the Ariane? Maybe I'll look for flex shafts at OSE, or RCBB.

Thanks, Ant

Klanderman

10-31-2021, 11:51 AM

hello!!! just got til Ariane 2 and it is awesome!!

Went ahead and changed the flex shaft from OSE and had a blast on 6s. The stability is amazing... love it
had to give a bit positive to the strut and raised the trim tabs also and got some wind under it, was having so much fun that forgot to lube the flex after around 8 runs and it gave out...
got her running 55mph on an octura x442 but want to move up to a x445, can anyone tell me what props you guys use?
best regards,
Eric