2 motor mount screws stripped brand new

[high-tech]

I just bought one of these @ the Hobby Barn here in Tucson Az. I got it home and started going over everything and 2 of the motor mount screws that hold the motor mount in place were stripped so I put some wood and epoxy in the holes and screwed her back down and they tightened up.

Do I need to balance the prop that came with this boat? I don't have a balancer yet but its on the list. Ouch the batteries are so expensive and I'm gonna have to learn how to know when to pull the boat at that 70% so not to damage the batts!

This forum is so outstanding! It's gonna save me bigtime with all the tips and fixes that need attention, I'm gonna do most of these before the boat ever gets wet!!!

Thanks for being here and thanks for all the help! Merry Christmas

[fox88gt]

The prop can be run as is, but you will definately see a performance improvement with it sharpened and balanced. I just time my runs on my watch to keep from overdischarging. Indeed the batteries are pricey, but when you treat them correctly, the are good for hundreds of cycles, possibly thousands of cycles.

[lenny]

Hi,
What cells are you looking at that are so high ?

Quote ? :noidea:
Ouch the batteries are so expensive and I'm gonna have to learn how to know when to pull the boat at that 70% so not to damage the batts!

[rickwess]

I've heard stories of the motor and servo mounts not being bonded to the hull correctly and coming lose. When I first picked up my Revolt, I pulled all the electrics from the hull and reinforced the motor and servo mounts with FG. I also pulled out the plastic battery tray and replaced it with a CF one from OSE. 3/16 ply would work just as well.

The stock prop is OK, but it should still be thinned and balanced. The Revolt really likes a m445 prop more than it does the AQ lifter prop. Keep your eye open for one.

[high-tech]

I ended with 8 Zippy 2s 5000Mah 40C, and I've got around 10 to 15 cycles on them. I must say they work fabulous, but I'm not really bashing them.

Hi,
What cells are you looking at that are so high ?

Quote ? :noidea:
Ouch the batteries are so expensive and I'm gonna have to learn how to know when to pull the boat at that 70% so not to damage the batts!

[high-tech]

I've also got all the go to props everybody likes m445, x642, graupner 42, and x440/3 and the stock grim racer prop. The m445 makes my boat fly into the air even on glass water. I noticed the bottom of my hull has bumps where the motor mounts and servo are... It seems I must strengthen the hull from the inside before blue printing the hull to remove the bumps. So I may as well ditch the mount and go with some rails and or a layup with some 5 oz. cloth the reason I say 5oz. cloth is because its already on hand as well as some 8 1/2 oz. 2x2 twill weave.

I also don't see the benefit of the strut being off center... IDK what it does, I got a rc boats y6 mono and the stinger on that boat is dead center and the bottom of the stinger is even with the bottom of the hull.

[rickwess]

You need to move the batteries forward when you prop up. The one end of my 4s battery was just where the hatch opening begins.

The offset stuffing tube is in "theory" supposed to offset the torque of the prop and allow you to run the rudder straighter when you want to go straight (i.e. less drag). It doesn't seem to hurt anything though and the hole is already there.

[high-tech]

I do the battery CG thing and then she nose dives on me and smacks the bottom of the lake lol I think I found the reason mine is so fussy, its the hull where the mounts are for the motor and I got noticeable bumps there and I'm almost sure that's what sends me flying... my ride pad is not flat its bumpy
You need to move the batteries forward when you prop up. The one end of my 4s battery was just where the hatch opening begins.

The offset stuffing tube is in "theory" supposed to offset the torque of the prop and allow you to run the rudder straighter when you want to go straight (i.e. less drag). It doesn't seem to hurt anything though and the hole is already there.

[lenny]

Post some pictures of your hardware setup,
And also if you can some video's of how it is riding in the long straights.
It sound like more of a strut or hardware thing than a ride surface problem.

[rickwess]

Yes it doesn't sound like a strut thing.

I could convert mine to a submarine at will, but it wasn't while going straight. A hard turn at speed, back off the throttle a little, then full throttle would always make it disappear from sight. Always stayed dry inside though

[high-tech]

here ya go, but I still think I got a wavy and very uneven ride surface

[high-tech]

Another thing that happened to me is the rudder pin kept on getting loose causing the rudder to flop around all over the place. I ended up putting a bushing and bigger setscrews on it and problem solved and I also rounded the bottom of the rudder leading edge, they say it causes lift...

[lenny]

Looks pretty good,
Is that the X440/3 you have on there in the picture ?
I love how the three blade prop makes a mono run nice and smooth and with less torque roll,
Maybe try a x447/3 or a little smaller than that and see how it likes that with the setup.

When running the m445 maybe bring the trim tabs down a hair or so,
But leave the cell packs where you normally keep them with the setup.

[high-tech]

That's my 440 and its the safest running prop of the bunch, I was running in race water around the gas boats lol, they like to try and toss me, but that boat turns on a dime, if one em gets to close im upside down

Looks pretty good,
Is that the X440/3 you have on there in the picture ?
I love how the three blade prop makes a mono run nice and smooth and with less torque roll,
Maybe try a x447/3 or a little smaller than that and see how it likes that with the setup.

When running the m445 maybe bring the trim tabs down a hair or so,
But leave the cell packs where you normally keep them with the setup.

[high-tech]

Maybe a V942/3 1.65x1.9 a lot of pitch, but I've seen these v900 series props perform amazingly well with the tongue removed and they got a hole different sound too

[srislash]

Maybe a V942/3 1.65x1.9 a lot of pitch, but I've seen these v900 series props perform amazingly well with the tongue removed and they got a hole different sound too

You've seen these on monos? Kinda thought it a hydro prop but recently read they were low lift. I have a few in the box but scared to try them. Back in the brush days I hurt a lot of equipment trying them. The record holder was running them and I wanted that record. LOL


I was having that dive technique going on with my 35" DF and fixed it with trim tabs BTW.

[high-tech]

I've seen them on the gas monos, I've never tried it on electric. Its a lot of pitch and I don't know if my revolt stock motor and esc will handle one

You've seen these on monos? Kinda thought it a hydro prop but recently read they were low lift. I have a few in the box but scared to try them. Back in the brush days I hurt a lot of equipment trying them. The record holder was running them and I wanted that record. LOL


I was having that dive technique going on with my 35" DF and fixed it with trim tabs BTW.

[lenny]

I have try some of the V prop on my boats but they did not do much for me,
Maybe I need to do a little more testing with them.
But the x/3 blades work great for my mono's.
I use the x440/3 on modded Rio ep on 2s and 3s and it gets a little airy at 44mph. :bounce:

[rickwess]

Do you guys detongue the x series 3 blade props?

[high-tech]

I haven't yet... maybe when I get something with a little more RPM I might benefit from it.

Do you guys detongue the x series 3 blade props?

[lenny]

No,
Most of the one's I am running still have a nice tongue on them.
This is the one that got I run on my pursuit that got modded by the turtle last year,
I fixed it back up and put it back on my pursuit to do some testing on 6s with it.

112050112051112052112053112054

[rickwess]

Interesting.

I picked up a few x4??/3 props from Chris D and had him detongue them. The intent was to lose a little acceleration and hopefully get more top end speed. The x series blades end up looking like a m series blades when they are detongued.

[high-tech]

Looks as good as mine and its still a virgin
No,
Most of the one's I am running still have a nice tongue on them.
This is the one that got I run on my pursuit that got modded by the turtle last year,
I fixed it back up and put it back on my pursuit to do some testing on 6s with it.

112050112051112052112053112054

[lenny]

Thanks.:tiphat:
Yes I did not do to bad,
The 16" painted turtle just had a nice clean 4" spot on it shell. :tongue_smilie:
When I tracked it done and took some pictures,
I also saw a little bit bigger snapper than it in the last picture.

112059112060112061112062

[romanr]

Looks pretty good,
Is that the X440/3 you have on there in the picture ?
I love how the three blade prop makes a mono run nice and smooth and with less torque roll,
Maybe try a x447/3 or a little smaller than that and see how it likes that with the setup.

When running the m445 maybe bring the trim tabs down a hair or so,
But leave the cell packs where you normally keep them with the setup.

I'm running an M742/3 CNC prop on my Revolt 30. Stock motor and ESC. I did upgrade the Servo to a Traxxas waterproof digital, high-torque model. The stock servo had problems moving the rudder with the turbulence created by this prop. I like the prop but still need to play with the boat hardware to make things steady. It rides way dry. Lots of lift! Great top speed. Motor and battery (TP 4S 30C) run much hotter than with stock prop but the ESC is nice and cool. I wish there was an M542/3 or an M642/3 to try out but they don't make them.

[BHChieftain]

I've seen some stock props that were way off on balance-- personally, I would never run a non-balanced prop on a boat. For the new folks, if you balance yourself be sure to wear safety gear/respirator as beryllium copper is extremely hazardous in particulate form.

Chief

[high-tech]

Thanks Chief, a few days after Christmas I bought a prop balancer from OSE and got to know it on a first name basis... in otherwords I've trued the ends of the 3/16 and 1/4 mandrels many times. if ya put the balancing shaft in a drill and use a dressing stone to further refine the point to a needle point instead of a blunt point it works so good afterwards and then after you use it awhile you notice its time to do it again.
I've seen some stock props that were way off on balance-- personally, I would never run a non-balanced prop on a boat. For the new folks, if you balance yourself be sure to wear safety gear/respirator as beryllium copper is extremely hazardous in particulate form.

Chief