Hotrod Delta Force Mini-Sniper

[properchopper]

After building one boat for Dave, he trusted me enough to build him a "hyper" 23" Mini-Sniper to replace his last one which had an unfortunate encounter with the Archimedes Principal. He collected and sent me just about everything except a motor, motor mount, and strut. Having a very positive experience recently with a TP Power motor, I elected to go with a TP Power 2935 6Y motor of 2270 KV to run on 4S with his Seaking T-120. Figured it'd be just right to run at a good rpm with his razor sharp 435/3 prop.

With Keith out setting SAW records I couldn't ship him the hull and hatch to lay in the CF so I had a go myself. While a fun extravaganza:censored:, I'd much rather occupy my time with a considerably easier and less frustrating task like teaching my dog to twerk while accompanying himself on the accordian :scared:

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[properchopper]

Next up was to shorten the Speedmaster stinger to get the drive dog even (or close) to the rudder leading edge.

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Then, time to install the rudder, which had two out of three bolts of the :censored:"blind hole" variety so I broke out the Silly Putty and marked the drill locations.

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To make life easier when torqueing down the rudder, I made rudder mounting studs from some 3mm x 35mm bolts so they could be "nutted" from the inside. Felt pretty clever after that, PLUS the rudder base had such a tiny footprint so I made a cf-plate gasket to better distribute the side-torsional loads should they occur :blink: Did the same for the stinger base 'tho not really needed:noidea: Added the nicely tapered tabs and did the turn fins which I laser aligned with my extravagantly priced super Hi-tech $3 HK laser

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[properchopper]

After a full component mock-up I decided to go with a rear motor layout [Randy taught me that years ago] so the shorter drivetrain has less friction and batteries can be used to adjust cg.

Planning several steps ahead to tighten up the servo & waterlines I prepped the motor mount with side holes to hold epoxy better, larger holes to pass servo wire underneath, and holes to run waterline under motor. Pre-made epoxy dams for a better motor mount-to-hull bond.

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Also installed 3mm threaded studs into the motor to make nutting in the motor nice and convenient rather than fussing with trying to get allen bolts started in the limited space of the rear motor location

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[properchopper]

My next fun-filled extravaganza came when I discovered I was sent a MICRO servo with the mount for a slightly larger MINI servo:doh:. After several hours of head scratching trying to source a top-load micro-mount (needed for the cramped space the servo would occupy) I gave in and fabbed a mount to fit with parts from the bigger mount

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Made battery trays from 3/32" birch ply with shims underneath to allow one-wrap to encircle trays and batteries. Yeah I know, CF are Mo' Trick but 'Mo expensive and are largely unseen once installed and velcroe'd.
OK so I used a CF ESC platform, Happy ? :wink:

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[rickwess]

Next up was to shorten the Speedmaster stinger to get the drive dog even (or close) to the rudder leading edge.
I've always wondered why manufacturers don't match their components. SM doesn't make a rudder bracket to match their 3/16" stinger. :confused2:


Did you use a cutoff wheel and a grinder to camfer the edge?
How far is too far to cut a stinger? To the first step?
Do you shorten the bushing by the same amount?


I hope you don't mind the questions as you post your build. I'll be starting my first from scratch build soon and am eager to learn.

[properchopper]

To retain the hatch, given the occasional warp-speed acrobatic manuevers these little hulls are capable of, I made some aluminum base pieces to be epoxied under the rear deck and tapped for quick-to-operate thumbscrews to work in concert with a solidly strong tab on front.

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[properchopper]

Here's a little mod you'll love if you've ever spent an entire entertaining afternoon trying to thread a Rx antenna under the deck up inside the tiny antenna tube that's permanently mounted. I press-fit the antenna base nut into a piece of ply, epoxy under the deck, allowing the antenna to be fed up the larger (now threaded) hole, and inserted into the antenna base/mast which gets screwed in betwixt thumb and forefinger :tiphat:

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There's so much more but my typing finger is getting tired SO here's the interior shot

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[properchopper]

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[properchopper]

:smile:107365:thumbup1:


Thanks for looking,
Tony
rcboatbuild@hotmail.com

[properchopper]

I've always wondered why manufacturers don't match their components. SM doesn't make a rudder bracket to match their 3/16" stinger. :confused2:


Did you use a cutoff wheel and a grinder to camfer the edge?
How far is too far to cut a stinger? To the first step?
Do you shorten the bushing by the same amount?


I hope you don't mind the questions as you post your build. I'll be starting my first from scratch build soon and am eager to learn.

I just hacksaw the tip off the stinger & dress on the face grinder of my belt sander.

I usually go as far as in the picture. You'll want to have enough length to support the propshaft as much as you can

Yes, you need to shorten the bushing

[ray schrauwen]

Nice job Tony. I learned a few good ideas for my next build on a boat any size :bowdown:

[rickwess]

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Lots of good info indeed. I understand the blind nuts epoxied in for the thumb screws, but what the part on the top? How does the hatch sit flush with that there?

[properchopper]

Nice job Tony. I learned a few good ideas for my next build on a boat any size :bowdown:

Hey Ray,

You gave me some good input on motor choice before I got started :tiphat:

[properchopper]

Lots of good info indeed. I understand the blind nuts epoxied in for the thumb screws, but what the part on the top? How does the hatch sit flush with that there?

Not sure I understand your question - but if you're asking about the clearance issue, the hatch has a raised edge which lifts it above the tapered thumbscrew guide

[Rocstar]

Also installed 3mm threaded studs into the motor to make nutting in the motor nice and convenient rather than fussing with trying to get allen bolts started in the limited space of the rear motor location

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Tony, what keeps the studs from turning while installing the nuts, just Loctite?

[properchopper]

Tony, what keeps the studs from turning while installing the nuts, just Loctite?

Yes, the red stuff. Might also make life easier in those dual-motor cats with the motors buried in the sponson wells :wink:

[Rocstar]

Yes, the red stuff. Might also make life easier in those dual-motor cats with the motors buried in the sponson wells :wink:
That's what I was thinking. :thumbup1: Boat looks great sir....as always.

[lenny]

:tiphat:
Ideally I like just using one thumb bolt and a hatch seal on most of my boats for easy in and out,
And for checking on things inside like temps and gps speeds.:noidea:

I think Rick is asking about the nice hatch seal you made for the opening on the deck. :tongue_smilie:

[rickwess]

Not sure I understand your question - but if you're asking about the clearance issue, the hatch has a raised edge which lifts it above the tapered thumbscrew guide
That answered both my questions, Thanks.

[properchopper]

I think he is asking about the nice hatch seal you made for the opening on the deck. :tongue_smilie:

If so, the foam tape (it was sent by Dave so I gave it a try) raised the hatch up to where it wasn't flush so it was canned and with the hatch securely in place , good 'ole hockey tape was recommended - no getting around it :Shame_on_You:

As long as this has come up I'll share my opinion on multiple hatch bolts with foam gasketing but I'm fairly sure it's not a popular take on the issue : Although larger boats that are rigged for gonzo speed runs may require multiple hatch bolts, I've seen several instances where a boat stops with smoke pouring out from under the usually not very airtight hatch seal and a frantic search for the allen key takes place followed by a hurried rush to unbolt all them hatch bolts while things sizzle or flame inside eating up the internal goodies. I'm personally in favor of hatch retention that is quick and convenient to do and undo but that's just me :noidea:

[kfxguy]

Nicely done!

[ray schrauwen]

So getting a nut on there is easier? It must be or you would not have done it.


Yes, the red stuff. Might also make life easier in those dual-motor cats with the motors buried in the sponson wells :wink:

[ray schrauwen]

Sorry to Spam but, here are some of the latest DF test boats... There is a 33" Sport Hydro there too!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2hWZaBsSyI&feature=c4-overview&list=UUytU0JFPUVwzQzKWxtmHHuA

[ray schrauwen]

and this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRdx7hVZaWk

[Southwest]

Nice article or build on sniper. The motor is Turnigy 3900 which gives me about 28,ooo rpm, give or take efficiency rating. My take is the setup of yours is for racing only but I would like your take on a sport setup for the average joe, thanks for the pictures on setup and your knowledge. My 2S lipos are 40-50c rating ( Turnigy ).Forgot, the homemade strut is at a neg. angle with a 632 S/B.

[properchopper]

Nice article or build on sniper. Properchopper, I see you position the motor toward the rear as per Randy suggestion with 2 5000 lipos toward the front for CG purposes. I too have a sniper but run only 2S lipos. I marked the CG and placed motor at CG line with 2S lipo on each side of motor with esc between the or just ahead of motor. The motor is Turnigy 3900 which gives me about 28,ooo rpm, give or take efficiency rating. My take is the setup of yours is for racing only but I would like your take on a sport setup for the average joe, thanks for the pictures on setup and your knowledge. My 2S lipos are 40-50c rating ( Turnigy ).Forgot, the homemade strut is at a neg. angle with a 632 S/B.

I'm not all that experienced with theses setups but you may want to try 435/3 prop. Ray was my consultant on the powerplant part of the build & He built a Mini-Sniper and might have something to add.

[properchopper]

Sorry to Spam but, here are some of the latest DF test boats... There is a 33" Sport Hydro there too!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2hWZaBsSyI&feature=c4-overview&list=UUytU0JFPUVwzQzKWxtmHHuA


Ray, A 33" P-Sport or P-Ltd Sport Hydro done nicely a-la DF might just be the "next big thing". 30" P-sports doing 65+ aren't sticking in the groove it seems these days. Also, a 28" Cat that can survive 6-laps in racewater could be a MG/Mystic/BJ29//MC killer in P-Ltd Cat. HMMMmm.....

At my age I'm liking the red octupus 'tho. Does in come in Yellow?......:drool:

[RandyatBBY]

Here's a little mod you'll love if you've ever spent an entire entertaining afternoon trying to thread a Rx antenna under the deck up inside the tiny antenna tube that's permanently mounted. I press-fit the antenna base nut into a piece of ply, epoxy under the deck, allowing the antenna to be fed up the larger (now threaded) hole, and inserted into the antenna base/mast which gets screwed in betwixt thumb and forefinger :tiphat:

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There's so much more but my typing finger is getting tired SO here's the interior shot

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Good one I like that!:biggrin:put the nut in a box glued to the bottom of the deck just like the lower fender pannel on mu 69 Stang

[properchopper]

Good one I like that!:biggrin:put the nut in a box glued to the bottom of the deck just like the lower fender pannel on mu 69 Stang

You must have lots of flotation in that 'Stang to keep it on top of the H2O :lol:

[RandyatBBY]

you must have lots of flotation in that 'stang to keep it on top of the h2o :lol:
lol:tongue: It just sits in the garage waiting for me.
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/3598/ywdk.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/844/ywdk.jpg/)

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[ray schrauwen]

Tony did you get mono Jeff to do the graphics? I'm building a lighter N1 version DF23 for my GF and I like the canopy etc... Nice graphics.

[properchopper]

Tony did you get mono Jeff to do the graphics? I'm building a lighter N1 version DF23 for my GF and I like the canopy etc... Nice graphics.

Ray,

I got creative with some stick-on CF vinyl, some pinstriping, and (of all things) an FE30 windshield.The grey scoops were done in mag wheel spray paint.

[ray schrauwen]

Well aren't you just one crafty dude! I'll have to get just as creative...

[ray schrauwen]

Ray,

I got creative with some stick-on CF vinyl, some pinstriping, and (of all things) an FE30 windshield.The grey scoops were done in mag wheel spray paint.

Did you paint scoops before or after gluing them on?

[properchopper]

Did you paint scoops before or after gluing them on?


Ray, I painted them first. It was a fun job & It really scoots according to Dave.

[ray schrauwen]

Thanks. Normally I would leave the gel coat alone but this orange hull I have has poor molding on the scoops. I'll have to paint them as well.

Most likely I'll do the same build again as in the past, more or less the same as yours. I wish I never sold the red one. It was beautifully molded and polished. That hull has fallen to Archimedes Principal as you said :(

[ray schrauwen]

Bump.

Got everything to start building finally.

I'm trying to think of a way to make the rudder a kick-up style.

[ray schrauwen]

It's been ages since I fitted a mono with hardware.

Can You give me some ideas on how to mount a stinger strut? Mainly how to find and make a center line mark on the taped transom?

I don't want to mess it up. The rest I can handle.

Doing this mini sniper and a Cyberstorm.

[ray schrauwen]

I'm actually still just finishing this boat, lol...

Should be ready for next spring, lol!

[properchopper]

C'mon Ray - I'm a-waitin' to see this run and I ain't gettin' any younger :unsure:

[ray schrauwen]

Sorry Tony. I haven't got a boat wet in over 2 years.