carbon fiber inlay

[kfxguy]

I don't proclaim to be an expert at this, but im willing to share what I did. A lot of people wont do that. So here's what I did:

My miss geico internals started to detach after a flip yesterday. Battery trays completely detached. So I decided to rip it all out and do it over. This thread is just on the inlay. If interest is shown, ill post up the rest of what I did for motor mounting, servo mount, and battery trays.

Here's the before:
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Here's after ripping it all out:
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So first thing you make a template. I made mine out of poster board. This is to get the size and shape you need then transfer to the carbon fiber so you don't waste any.

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Then I tape out the shape on the carbon. When I cut it out I left about an 1/8" around the edge of the cf cloth. That keeps the fibers from coming undone and saves you a major headache. Trust me. The tape is only on one side and faces down when you put it in.

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I did the first layer in fiberglass to cut down on cf usage. I wanted two layers but cf cloth is not cheap. Fiberglass is. Lol. I doubt im giving up a bunch of strength. Better than one layer of carbon, right?

See the hole? No need to cut it, the fibers will move around. Use a screwdriver to do it.

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[kfxguy]

Now you test fit both pieces. Make sure they fit correctly.

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Once you made sure they fit, tape up the boat on the outside. Youll see why in a minute. Now put your first layer in. Center it and put it in position. Carefully lift one side and spray some spray adhesive on the cloth and boat floor. Carefully lay it back down being careful to smooth it out and don't put any wrinkles in. Do the same on the other side. Don't worry, your resin will melt away this glue and you wont see it.

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Then same thing for second layer.

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Looks good so far. Now its time for your epoxy resin. I made a support piece for my stuffing tube. I recommend have some kind of support here.

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[kfxguy]

I used a paint brush to initially spread the resin. Then I used a small foam roller to even it all out. Soaked up excess resin. The cheapest place I found was home dept. It looks like a mini paint roller. You normally use it for touch up and tight spot painting. Here's how it looks now.

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Now im waiting on my battery trays to cure.

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[kfxguy]

Lol. Nobody cares. Guess I wasted my time posting this. Lmao

[pescador]

Thanks man, I'm just about to do some CF work on my boat and was wondering about the stuffing tube. Any details on your vacuum bag setup?

[kfxguy]

Thanks man, I'm just about to do some CF work on my boat and was wondering about the stuffing tube. Any details on your vacuum bag setup?

I have a big piece of glass. Some Peel ply,vacuum pump, some cotton material from walmart for soaking up extra resin, and regular visqueen for the bag. Its sealed down with sticky tape. Ill post my battery trays later this evening. They turned out nice. I ordered a billet servo bracket today and hopefully get it in by the weekend. I should be done by then.

[iridebikes247]

really nice job. im sure a lot of people appreciate this tip but it takes a week for posts like this to be read and tried out don't think you wasted any time

[kfxguy]

really nice job. im sure a lot of people appreciate this tip but it takes a week for posts like this to be read and tried out don't think you wasted any time

Well I guess I was just a little taken back by no one commenting. I figured no one appreciated it.

[rickwess]

Well I guess I was just a little taken back by no one commenting. I figured no one appreciated it.
Patience friend. You only posted it late last night.

It's a good write-up.

[kfxguy]

Patience friend. You only posted it late last night.

It's a good write-up.

Thanks. I just figured I'd have at least one post by know lol. No biggie. Im just used to the other forums I frequent where you'll have a response usually within 5 or so minutes. Lol

[rickwess]

Thanks. I just figured I'd have at least one post by know lol. No biggie. Im just used to the other forums I frequent where you'll have a response usually within 5 or so minutes. Lol

Most of us work during the day. It's how we support this expensive hobby.............and a few other vices :laugh:

[Fella1340]

Looking good. I hope you will post the rebuild through to completion. I have some carbon fiber work
coming up and appreciate any info posted about it. Like you said, there's not much out there. Keep up the good work!

[Wetter]

i appreciate your post didn't know CF was that pliable (still in the box) to spread around stuffing tube there is another post i started CF Cloth? and so here is what iridebikes247 says,(Quote)
" use super 77 spray adhesive. just a light mist coast and I can cut razor sharp edges. at first I was worried that the spray adhesive would mess up the epoxy bond, the epoxy breaks down most adhesives very very well, try it and put a piece of tape on the cf cloth then epoxy, the adhesive melts off the tape very quickly.

I measure the size I need for the hull, spray the cloth, press it into place. The important thing is not touching the cloth after it is set into place, otherwise the epoxy will allow it to slide around a bit and you risk having air bubbles. some people aren't a fan of the spray adhesive but in my experience it has always broken down and the epoxy penetrates through the cloth, but to each his own. "

anyways i basically was thinkn' the same tools.
i am almost ready to lay mine, waiting for keithbradley, he was supposed to be making a tutorial of CF lay.
Thank you kfxguy.

[kfxguy]

i appreciate your post didn't know CF was that pliable (still in the box) to spread around stuffing tube there is another post i started CF Cloth? and so here is what iridebikes247 says,(Quote)
" use super 77 spray adhesive. just a light mist coast and I can cut razor sharp edges. at first I was worried that the spray adhesive would mess up the epoxy bond, the epoxy breaks down most adhesives very very well, try it and put a piece of tape on the cf cloth then epoxy, the adhesive melts off the tape very quickly.

I measure the size I need for the hull, spray the cloth, press it into place. The important thing is not touching the cloth after it is set into place, otherwise the epoxy will allow it to slide around a bit and you risk having air bubbles. some people aren't a fan of the spray adhesive but in my experience it has always broken down and the epoxy penetrates through the cloth, but to each his own. "

anyways i basically was thinkn' the same tools.
i am almost ready to lay mine, waiting for keithbradley, he was supposed to be making a tutorial of CF lay.
Thank you kfxguy.

Well I didn't find any detailed way of doing it....just bits and pieces. I've done quite a few things in cf here recently,mostly over laying parts. Same thing to me with this. I dud learn the spray glue tip here recently and it works great. Just make sure you get the cloth in place (most people don't even know it starts out as a cloth) and then once its where you want....pull up a small section and spray it with adhesive. Carefully press it down taking care to not wrinkle. I've never had an issue with using the glue. It helps out greatly because the cf resin doesn't make it stick.

Im glad im getting some feedback.....I thought I had wasted my time. I actually posted this three times before this and everytime for some reason my phone crashed. Android garbage lol.

Stay tuned....im at welding school right now but when I get home, ill finish (try at least) the battery trays. If I get far enough, i'll start the motor mount. I have to mill slots in my trays with my milling machine for the battery straps.... so that may take a while.

[kfxguy]

Looking good. I hope you will post the rebuild through to completion. I have some carbon fiber work
coming up and appreciate any info posted about it. Like you said, there's not much out there. Keep up the good work!

I will and if you have any questions....don't hesitate to ask. Im not a pro....but I know a couple things about cf work.

[kfxguy]

Here's the battery trays compared to the stock junk. They are made of a thin sheet of basswood and a layer of carbon fiber with epoxy soaked in them. Really stiff and light. I chose to go this route and laminate the wood because it was much cheaper materials wise, took less time and the end result was good enough.

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Here's the trays after milling the slots. I messed up. I was supposed to do 4 smaller slots and accidentally went too far. O well.....not making another set.

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Installed in the hull

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Now im waiting on epoxy to dry on the motor mount. I started it already. Not sure if its what im gonna end up with yet tho. We shall see.

[Wetter]

you're on it, nice flippn' job on your batt trays. darn look like the ones i bought.:buttrock:
:popcorn2: keepm' popn'

[kfxguy]

you're on it, nice flippn' job on your batt trays. darn look like the ones i bought.:buttrock:
:popcorn2: keepm' popn'

Thanks :) I thought they turned out pretty decent. They aren't perfect but they are close. First time milling wood/cf in my machine. Can't crank down on the vise or they would bend. Im hoping to have this thing ready by the weekend. That depends on how my motor mount turns out.

[Darin Jordan]

Nice work.

For what it's worth, I... and Pro Boat, can't stand the wood in the interior either... It makes the boat look kind of cheap.

Maybe that will change on future offerings. I actually think, with a little redesign of the sponson area, that the battery trays may not even be necessary. Would love to see the cells right on the floors of the sponson canoes.

[kfxguy]

Nice work.

For what it's worth, I... and Pro Boat, can't stand the wood in the interior either... It makes the boat look kind of cheap.

Maybe that will change on future offerings. I actually think, with a little redesign of the sponson area, that the battery trays may not even be necessary. Would love to see the cells right on the floors of the sponson canoes.

Thanks Darin!
I did lower the trays a Tad. The trays sit on the humps toward the outside of the sponsons. It will help with getting the batteries in and out easier. Funny thing is when I removed all the wood stuff, the hull sits flat on a glass table now. Before it would teeter.

[Darin Jordan]

Funny thing is when I removed all the wood stuff, the hull sits flat on a glass table now. Before it would teeter.

That doesn't surprise me at all...

I usually try to run my Pro Boat stuff pretty close to the factory config to find out what it can do "out of the box", but I'm starting to do more testing and research with "variations"...

[kfxguy]

That doesn't surprise me at all...

I usually try to run my Pro Boat stuff pretty close to the factory config to find out what it can do "out of the box", but I'm starting to do more testing and research with "variations"...

Yea I did that too. Lol. It would flip over, over 55 or so mph. After 3 flips, everything inside started coming loose.....the battery trays completely came loose. This is the flip that did it in:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiTbc_ghHUE&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[Fella1340]

I love how.the battery trays worked out. Nice job. I am curious as to now the machining went. Were
you able to plunge and cut and the finished size and still get those nice clean lines or did you start with a smaller diameter cutter and then mill the finished size. I will be doing similar work over the winter
And would very much like to know how out did it. Thanks, Jeff

[kfxguy]

I love how.the battery trays worked out. Nice job. I am curious as to now the machining went. Were
you able to plunge and cut and the finished size and still get those nice clean lines or did you start with a smaller diameter cutter and then mill the finished size. I will be doing similar work over the winter
And would very much like to know how out did it. Thanks, Jeff


I marked it on the back side. Sanded them to the same exact size on a belt sander. Taped them together with masking tape. Plunge cut both at the same time. It produced a semi clean cut. Didn't splinter the carbon at all. Then I went back over it with a hobby knife and cleaned the holes up. Then finished the edges with 400 grit. I used one size mill bit.

[kfxguy]

Wait till you see what in doing to hold my cooling hose in place. If it works out....its gonna be neat. Hint....made out of cf.....go figure. Lol

[Wetter]

just curious on the CF plates (trays ect...) i know on my rc buggies and cars that on the edges weather be the chassis or shock towers ect...that (we) use CA glue to keep the edges from splintering or fraying on impact, being boats do not tend to incur this type of abuse still i thought i would mention this.
is it something you would do or just ignore in a boat?

[kfxguy]

just curious on the CF plates (trays ect...) i know on my rc buggies and cars that on the edges weather be the chassis or shock towers ect...that (we) use CA glue to keep the edges from splintering or fraying on impact, being boats do not tend to incur this type of abuse still i thought i would mention this.
is it something you would do or just ignore in a boat?

Pretty much all the carbon gets epoxy on it so it serves the same purpose.

[kfxguy]

Motor mount almost done. Its very very strong. Two layers of probably .050 carbon plate sandwiched together, epoxied and dry overnight. Then I made the sides. Im waiting on some sheets im making to finish curing and ill cut the back part out,epoxy it on then mount it in the hull. I used the stock mount t is why I made this ramp. I felt like motor changes and servicing it was much easier.

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[Fella1340]

I am enjoying watching this come together. Keep up the good work!

[kfxguy]

I am enjoying watching this come together. Keep up the good work!

Thanks man. I didn't just make this, I did it a couple weeks ago,but its going in the geico. Its a mamba monster 2 esc that I converted to water cooling. I milled this plate out myself (isn't perfectly symmetrical but it'll work lol) because I didn't like what they offered for a cooling plate.

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This was my first attempt at milling it out. Forgot to leave material where the screw holes go. Ehh

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[Darin Jordan]

Good Work on the water cooling plate...

It looks like more work than it's worth, however... For those without a mill, I used one of these to convert my Mamba Max Pro ESCs to water cooling. For the price, I just couldn't justify firing up my own mill.... They are only $5.95... plus shipping, of course...


http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80674

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/prodimages/ose-80674-water-cooling-plate_medium.jpg

[Fella1340]

Its still a lot nicer. Plus the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Sure beats sitting in front of the tv waiting for the mailman to come!
Keep the boat refit rolling!

[kfxguy]

Good Work on the water cooling plate...

It looks like more work than it's worth, however... For those without a mill, I used one of these to convert my Mamba Max Pro ESCs to water cooling. For the price, I just couldn't justify firing up my own mill.... They are only $5.95... plus shipping, of course...


http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80674



http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/prodimages/ose-80674-water-cooling-plate_medium.jpg
I know lol. I saw those and its cheap.....but I had to order...wait and then do something with the orange color that didn't match. Plus mine has more capacity lol.

[kfxguy]

Its still a lot nicer. Plus the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Sure beats sitting in front of the tv waiting for the mailman to come!
Keep the boat refit rolling!
Agreed 100%! :)

[tiqueman]

Looking good Travis. Keep it up.

Something for all to consider while laying carbon, and I say this because I have now fixed 2 boats for people whom have purchased so called "carbon inlayed boats" off of others from the forum, one of which I was able to pull almost all the carbon out by hand within an hour. Carbon fiber will not allow resin to soak thru and wet out nearly as easily as standard cloth will. It is much easier if you wet out the entire surface of the hull with thin even layer of a quality resin and THEN lay in the carbon, then wet out again from above as needed. Ive seen too many now where people slop it in and absolute dry spots can be found in the cf and its not even close to bonding in some areas of the hull. Wetting out the hull first guarantees full saturation and its very easy to blot out any extra resin to keep it as light and strong as possible. Don't be afraid to put gloves on and get in there and work things around. You need to be cautious not to disturb the strands but you can still easily work it and make sure all areas are pressed into the hull completely. Then blot over with a brush, roller, sponge, whatever technique you prefer and make her look pretty. Keep your gloves on, go back in when you think your all done and I bet youll find some areas that shifted and have air under them. Press out using your fingers or a tool if need be, check it 20 times and let it dry. Just my .02 of doing over 100 cf lay ups. And really more so thought Id chime in because of the two BAD hulls Ive had to completely gut for customers and repair here all due to horrible cf inlays.

[kfxguy]

Looking good Travis. Keep it up.

Something for all to consider while laying carbon, and I say this because I have now fixed 2 boats for people whom have purchased so called "carbon inlayed boats" off of others from the forum, one of which I was able to pull almost all the carbon out by hand within an hour. Carbon fiber will not allow resin to soak thru and wet out nearly as easily as standard cloth will. It is much easier if you wet out the entire surface of the hull with thin even layer of a quality resin and THEN lay in the carbon, then wet out again from above as needed. Ive seen too many now where people slop it in and absolute dry spots can be found in the cf and its not even close to bonding in some areas of the hull. Wetting out the hull first guarantees full saturation and its very easy to blot out any extra resin to keep it as light and strong as possible. Don't be afraid to put gloves on and get in there and work things around. You need to be cautious not to disturb the strands but you can still easily work it and make sure all areas are pressed into the hull completely. Then blot over with a brush, roller, sponge, whatever technique you prefer and make her look pretty. Keep your gloves on, go back in when you think your all done and I bet youll find some areas that shifted and have air under them. Press out using your fingers or a tool if need be, check it 20 times and let it dry. Just my .02 of doing over 100 cf lay ups. And really more so thought Id chime in because of the two BAD hulls Ive had to completely gut for customers and repair here all due to horrible cf inlays.

Hmmm....mine might end up being that way. I didn't wet mine out because from past experience I've found its a pita to do that and then try to move the cf cloth around if you don't lay it straight. I dunno. I did put forth extra effort to make sure the resin soaked in and the resin I use is pretty thin....as in it pours really easy and will soak through easily. I blot it with a paint brush a lot and then came back with the foam roller last. I dunno....ill have to see....cuz I know this thing is gonna get flipped a few times lol. If it comes out.....well lesson learned and ill try it again! You do have a good point for sure and ill absolutely agree.

[kfxguy]

Here's an update on my motor mount. Servo mount from ose came in today too.

107325

I need some ideas fellas. I bought the billet servo mount. Its supposed to bolt down but im really against drilling holes in my hull....what else? I tried to make some little plates and put t nuts in them....but that didn't work out well. I may try that again or lay down several layers of cf with t nuts in them and vaccum bag it.


Actually I think I have the answer. Thin wooden plate cut a little bigger than the servo mount. Laminate with one layer of cf and then drill it to fit t nuts. Epoxy to hull. Now mount will screw to that without putting holes in my hull. Good idea?

[tiqueman]

Sounds like it'll work well to me.

Back to inlays real quick. It can be done the way travis has done his. You just have to be sure you have complete saturation. Its just easier in my findings and a guarantee its all soaked doing it the way I suggest above. If you lay it in crooked, pull it out or carefully slide it. I've done both succesfully. Bottom line, don't be afraid of it.

Travis don't assume yours isn't adhered correctly. Usually the tunnels are all soaked becaus its easy to get to and work. Its the tunnel sides and hull sides that I normally see most error.

[keithbradley]

Looking good Travis. Keep it up.

Something for all to consider while laying carbon, and I say this because I have now fixed 2 boats for people whom have purchased so called "carbon inlayed boats" off of others from the forum, one of which I was able to pull almost all the carbon out by hand within an hour. Carbon fiber will not allow resin to soak thru and wet out nearly as easily as standard cloth will. It is much easier if you wet out the entire surface of the hull with thin even layer of a quality resin and THEN lay in the carbon, then wet out again from above as needed. Ive seen too many now where people slop it in and absolute dry spots can be found in the cf and its not even close to bonding in some areas of the hull. Wetting out the hull first guarantees full saturation and its very easy to blot out any extra resin to keep it as light and strong as possible. Don't be afraid to put gloves on and get in there and work things around. You need to be cautious not to disturb the strands but you can still easily work it and make sure all areas are pressed into the hull completely. Then blot over with a brush, roller, sponge, whatever technique you prefer and make her look pretty. Keep your gloves on, go back in when you think your all done and I bet youll find some areas that shifted and have air under them. Press out using your fingers or a tool if need be, check it 20 times and let it dry. Just my .02 of doing over 100 cf lay ups. And really more so thought Id chime in because of the two BAD hulls Ive had to completely gut for customers and repair here all due to horrible cf inlays.

^^^^^Totally agree with this guy ^^^^^

It's really not that hard to do it the right way either. There's no reason to do it any other way!

[keithbradley]

Here's an update on my motor mount. Servo mount from ose came in today too.

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I need some ideas fellas. I bought the billet servo mount. Its supposed to bolt down but im really against drilling holes in my hull....what else? I tried to make some little plates and put t nuts in them....but that didn't work out well. I may try that again or lay down several layers of cf with t nuts in them and vaccum bag it.


Actually I think I have the answer. Thin wooden plate cut a little bigger than the servo mount. Laminate with one layer of cf and then drill it to fit t nuts. Epoxy to hull. Now mount will screw to that without putting holes in my hull. Good idea?

Drill baby, drill!

Don't be scared to cut, drill, etc. It's an entry-level mentality and It's only going to hold you back. I'm not sure what your background is, but the more you get comfortable with removing limitations like this, the better your work will be.:thumbup1:

[Wetter]

i think kfxguy is doing awesome trial and error, NASA anyone!
damn i like this class to:popcorn2:

[kfxguy]

Drill baby, drill!

Don't be scared to cut, drill, etc. It's an entry-level mentality and It's only going to hold you back. I'm not sure what your background is, but the more you get comfortable with removing limitations like this, the better your work will be.:thumbup1:

My experience is pretty good I'd say ;) the problem I have with drilling is a couple things. First thing is a nut and screw through a weak thin material like I working with leads me to believe that it can get cracked there easily if I flip it. And flip it I will lol. It also is a weak spot in my opinion. Could be a possible leak (not that concerned with that) also I like to change things a lot. If I drill those holes then decide to use a different mount...then I have holes to fill. Which I don't like doing. Can I? Yes, but I don't like it. I know you wont see the nuts when the boat is in the water but I feel like leaving nuts hanging (whoa did I say that? Lmao) on the bottom of a hull is like drilling through a quarter panel on a car and seeing the bolts/nuts. I feel like its just not right lol.

Call me crazy, but im just weird about some things lol.

[kfxguy]

I forgot. When I drill through the hull I like to have a plate or something on each side to distribute the stress more evenly. A plate on the bottom just wouldn't be right. Washers aren't enough support in my opinion. This is just my past experience speaking but I am new to boats. Anyone ever experienced a crack at a drilled hole?

[Fella1340]

Hey Kfxguy, I would stick with doing what your comfortable with. I'm not sure what this entry level
mentality is about and how its supposedly holding you back? Whatever, keep up the good work and have fun!

[keithbradley]

I hope you didn't take my post the wrong way...it wasn't meant to be abrasive. To clarify, I wasn't suggesting that the OP has an entry level mentality...I'm saying that being scared to drill holes in a boat is something that people who are new to building typically possess. That doesn't mean that kfxguy's abilities are typecast into some generalization that I didn't mean to imply...

I wouldn't put nuts on the bottom of a hull either, that would look pretty bad in my opinion. Stainless button head allen screws that thread into the piece you are making (up from the bottom) is another story though.

Typically, bolting something to the hull will, if anything, strengthen it by spreading the load out.
I would compare bolting things through the side of the sponson to bolting things to a fender. Bolting things to the tunnel is more like bolting things to the tunnel in a car, which is something that is regularly done and accepted. Would you rather crash in a car that had the seat belts epoxied in?

[keithbradley]

I forgot. When I drill through the hull I like to have a plate or something on each side to distribute the stress more evenly. A plate on the bottom just wouldn't be right. Washers aren't enough support in my opinion. This is just my past experience speaking but I am new to boats. Anyone ever experienced a crack at a drilled hole?

Yes, I have had one crack. On a 28.5lb. boat with 7lbs of ESC and wiring mounted to a CF plate bolted to the tunnel, held in by (4) 8-32 stainless allens. It was a bulletproof HPR layup, one that you could stand on without worry. In a bad crash, it split the top side of the hull part way up, the seam split most of the way down the hull, it cracked vertically in about the center of the hatch opening and continued down the side and under the sponson, as it would if you just broke the boat in half. However, it stopped when it got close to the tunnel.
In the tunnel area, There were a couple cracks next to the bolts that held the ESCs in, but I think that the additional plate in the tunnel kept the boat from breaking in two pieces, and my $3k+ worth of electronics off of the bottom of the lake.

I'm not in favor of drilling unnecessary holes just for kicks, but if something needs to be bolted for strength, you will either do it now, or you will eventually figure out that you need to do it later. I'm sorry if this comes off the wrong way guys, just trying to help.

[tiqueman]

I think keith was just saying that in general, someone (not specifically travis) who is new to modifying or building boats is often hesitant to drill holes, slots for stuffing tubes, even adhering a motor mount for the first time because they fear doing it wrong. The more you just say "what's the worst that can happen" and do it, the more comfortable one gets. So I see exactly what is meant by new mentality. I, like keith am building almost daily and get messages almost daily about how to do some things that people are just afraid to do. Again because everyone seems to twist every damn thing that experienced people have to say... no ones implying travis is scared or doing anything wrong. Were simply stating don't be afraid to try... as he is. That is all.

[kfxguy]

I hope you didn't take my post the wrong way...it wasn't meant to be abrasive. To clarify, I wasn't suggesting that the OP has an entry level mentality...I'm saying that being scared to drill holes in a boat is something that people who are new to building typically possess. That doesn't mean that kfxguy's abilities are typecast into some generalization that I didn't mean to imply...

I wouldn't put nuts on the bottom of a hull either, that would look pretty bad in my opinion. Stainless button head allen screws that thread into the piece you are making (up from the bottom) is another story though.

Typically, bolting something to the hull will, if anything, strengthen it by spreading the load out.
I would compare bolting things through the side of the sponson to bolting things to a fender. Bolting things to the tunnel is more like bolting things to the tunnel in a car, which is something that is regularly done and accepted. Would you rather crash in a car that had the seat belts epoxied in?

Lol, no man I didn't take it wrong in anyway. We all have our own way of doing things. You've built waaay more boats than me no doubt and I respect your opinion and openly accept and appreciate any advice you give me. No one on here really knows me and I understand that, so its cool. I don't get mad about what people say on a forum.....you never know there true demeanor by reading a post. Talking to them is always a better way of communication. So no, I didn't take it wrong.

I have my own way I like to do things that works for me. And im sure that's how most people are. In this servo mounting situation, the holes in my bracket are counter sunk. So really the nut would go to the outside of the hull and look like poo. I could use a button head Allen and washer on the outside, then a washer over the countersunk hole with a nut on top....but I don't have room anyway because the servo ears run over the holes.

Here's a pic so you can see what I mean. Yea,I could cut the servo ears some.....but I don't want to hack it up.

107350

[Wetter]

who is afraid ? they are toys! if you you do not dream, then do not spend the coin or your time and get out of this hobby. Period.
come on guys who are you kidding I ask questions as though i were a kid it is how we learn.
so trail and error does not constitute gain? Gee! Tesla had more smarts than Edison ever dreamed of having.
damn your fools.:doh:

[tiqueman]

You'd be suprised how many people I talk to who are afraid to put a drill to a fresh hull. Often the case may be they saved for a while to get it and are worried they will mess something up. And this is exactly what I mean. Who says anywhere not to ask questions or error doesnt constitute gain?

Travis. Why not have seperate mounting holes for the plate from the mount? Then a button head can come up thru the bottom and nuts I side. Then u can do ur blind nuts as you mentioned to me or nut and bolt it which will cause the mount plate to float requiring some type of spacers.

[kfxguy]

Keith, when you see what im doing to mount the servo, I think you'll like it. Its a lot of trouble.....but. worth it for a clean look that im after. Stay tuned. Im laying up carbon parts right now. Im shooting to have it done by tomorrow evening. I also bought some better quality steering linkage ends and a billet servo arm. Too bad the servo arm is the wrong spline lmao. I forgot to bring my servo with me to the hobby shop.

[Fella1340]

I like the what's the worst thing that can happen line of thinking. Just about any mistake that is
made can be fixed. I hope I didn't get anyone upset with my earlier comments. Somehow I managed to.stick my boot in my mouth with how things came out. I was just supporting him in any way he wanted to do the work on his boat and it came out sounding the way it did. My apologies for sounding like a jackass. I do that sometimes.

[tiqueman]

Lol its true though. Anything can be fixed. That boat keith spoke of was a mess. Its fixed and getting wet tomorrow. I always think if I don't screw it up.. the water or someone else will. Then you get repair practice. :lol:

Nice talking to you travis. Youre certainly on the right track. Ill send you the pics you requested asap.

[kfxguy]

I like the what's the worst thing that can happen line of thinking. Just about any mistake that is
made can be fixed. I hope I didn't get anyone upset with my earlier comments. Somehow I managed to.stick my boot in my mouth with how things came out. I was just supporting him in any way he wanted to do the work on his boat and it came out sounding the way it did. My apologies for sounding like a jackass. I do that sometimes.

No man, your ok. You didn't say anything wrong. At least I didn't think you did lol. I appreciate the backing in what im wanting to do. Many different ways to do this....no way is absolutely wrong or right. Well I guess if you used tooth pucks or popcicle sticks that would be completely wrong but yiu know what im saying. Lol. Im having a good time doing this and glad some of you guys are following along. Lets keep having a good time and ill go sprinkle some fairy dust on this epoxy to make it dry faster so I can finish and hit the water with it! Lol.

[rickwess]

I think (hope) most people are here to learn from others experiences. The expression, "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" comes to mind. Perhaps more appropriate for here is "Those who fail to learn from the mistakes of their predecessors are destined to repeat them."

The group of builders on this forum are great and are willing to answer questions.

As for the servo mount, I would probably build a base out of CF, or ply covered in CF cloth, and epoxy in some blind nuts before epoxying it to the hull.

[kfxguy]

I think (hope) most people are here to learn from others experiences. The expression, "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" comes to mind. Perhaps more appropriate for here is "Those who fail to learn from the mistakes of their predecessors are destined to repeat them."

The group of builders on this forum are great and are willing to answer questions.

As for the servo mount, I would probably build a base out of CF, or ply covered in CF cloth, and epoxy in some blind nuts before epoxying it to the hull.

That's exactly what im doing. Im vacuum bagging a layer of cf over wood and when its done curing ill drill my holes and press the t nuts in. Then epoxy in hull.

107367

[kfxguy]

107368Here's my motor mounted. Little embarrassed that its slightly crooked. Either it moved on me even tho I thought it was taped in good or my eyes were crooked at the time. Lol. O well. At least the mount is slotted and can make up for it.

[rickwess]

Does anyone mix milled CF in with their epoxy? In some cases the extra strength would be useful, but the aesthetic benefit is black epoxy on CF. :thumbup1:

[kfxguy]

I forgot to mention....my gram scale died on me so I had to go get another one today. I used it to perfectly mix the epoxy. That put me behind. I was shooting to have it ready for tomorrow morning. Doesn't look like now.

[kfxguy]

Does anyone mix milled CF in with their epoxy? In some cases the extra strength would be useful, but the aesthetic benefit is black epoxy on CF. :thumbup1:

I heard you can use graphite powder.

[rickwess]

I heard you can use graphite powder.
That's more of a lubricant. I don't know if it's recommended to be mixed with epoxy. You can add pigments for colour. Here's what I was talking about:

Milled CF (http://compositescanada.com/product-catalog/resins/product/258-milled-carbon-fibers)

[kfxguy]

That's more of a lubricant. I don't know if it's recommended to be mixed with epoxy. You can add pigments for colour. Here's what I was talking about:

Milled CF (http://compositescanada.com/product-catalog/resins/product/258-milled-carbon-fibers)

I agree with you. I woukdnt use it. But if im not mistaken isn't graphite and carbon fiber the same materials?

[kfxguy]

While im waiting on this stuff to cure I made a cf cross bar to the servo mount. Just because I guess. Lol

107370

[rickwess]

But if im not mistaken isn't graphite and carbon fiber the same materials?
They're both made up of carbon atoms, but graphite is a crystalline material that makes it soft and brittle.

[kfxguy]

So I figured I might as well put together what I can while the servo stuff cures. Its all done but that.

Added a thru transom connector for cooling. No biggie here, just thought it looked cleaner.

107375

Here's the almost completed setup. Yes....I used industrial strength Velcro for the esc and receiver. Im sure a few of of you guys are cringing at that, but im not sure im going to keep this esc for one and for two, I've flipped it a number of times and never was the esc or receiver hanging. Its pretty hard to detach them with the good velcro im using (I know I know...its still velcro) but until I settle on an esc, this will have to do. So go easy on me. Lol.

107376

107377

Btw, the wires and hoses will be more tidy looking once my cf hold Downs are done.

[Rocstar]

Looks good, but not sure what's up with the T and Y fittings on the cooling lines? I would suggest to keep it simple and run to the ESC first then the motor.

[srislash]

Looks good, but not sure what's up with the T and Y fittings on the cooling lines? I would suggest to keep it simple and run to the ESC first then the motor.

I agree. Same setup that I have in one of mine and absolutely no heat issues.

[kfxguy]

I did that so the motor doesn't get heated water from the esc. Is it not worth it?

[srislash]

I did that so the motor doesn't get heated water from the esc. Is it not worth it?
I really wouldn't worry about it. You would be better off keeping a consistent steady/even flow rate.

[Fella1340]

What a difference from stock to where you are now! Congrats on a job well done. I think the advice
given on changing your cooling configuration is what needsI to happen. LFrom what I have seen from the simplest refit to the multi thousand dollar jobs is to change your cooling to what the fellas above have suggested. The only other thing you may want to do is get a dual pickup rudder (I assume they would be available due to the popularity of the hull) and run a separate line to your motor and esc. Maybe another project for another day! Anyways, the outcome must have been worth all that hard work. Great job! Lets see some more video of this thing ripping up the water!

[rickwess]

I did that so the motor doesn't get heated water from the esc. Is it not worth it?
Water will take the path of least resistance. You risk starving one of lines downstream of the "Y" of that precious cooling fluid. :sinking-guy:

[lenny]

Hi,
You should spin the water jacket so the back nipple is on top and use that nipple as the water exit,
Always run water line in to the low and out to the highest point on the jacket.
It will cool the motor a lot better that way,
Because the water will have to over flow the jacket to get out of the top nipple and take more heat with it to.

107405


107368Here's my motor mounted. Little embarrassed that its slightly crooked. Either it moved on me even tho I thought it was taped in good or my eyes were crooked at the time. Lol. O well. At least the mount is slotted and can make up for it.

[kfxguy]

Well im done! I rerouted the water lines like everyone suggested. So here's the before:

107414

And here's the finished result. I ended up using know weld 5 minute epoxy to hold the servo plate down. After about an hour, I tried to rip it out (yea ida been made because I would have to fix it! Better than fixing that out on the lake tho!) And that puppy wouldn't budge. Maybe I can go run it today.

107415

107416

And I thought these were nifty to keep my hoses nice and neat

107417

[rickwess]

An amazing improvement. :thumbup:

[kfxguy]

An amazing improvement. :thumbup:

Thanks buddy!

[johnf]

Looks good

[Fella1340]

Awesome job! I hope we get some video of the boat on the water. It looks so cool
inside now, it must be faster! Have you got another project lined up we can tune into
next?

[kfxguy]

Awesome job! I hope we get some video of the boat on the water. It looks so cool
inside now, it must be faster! Have you got another project lined up we can tune into
next?

Lmao. I just wrecked it! I was being a dumbass and was trying to splash my kids on the bank. Well. I ran it aground at full speed. I managed to go right through my recovery boat and destroyed it completely. Time to build another. Lol. The geico suffered minor damage. It did crack the hull in a few places. Good thing I can fiberglass. Hahaha. Im laughing to keep from crying right now. Here's some damage pics. Bent the offset rudder bracket. Everything I did stayed put tho. I wanted it a different color anyway.

I have 4 projects coming up in the next few days if you want me to start a thread on them.
Im building a 37" carbon fiber daytona for my buddy
Building a much better recovery boat
Im getting a carbon fiber cheetah to finish for myself
And im building myself a 26" bling rocket on steroids.


107428

107429

107430

107431

[lenny]

:lol:
Ok where is the video of all that fun you just had.:popcorn2:

[kfxguy]

:lol:
Ok where the video of all that fun you just had.:popcorn2:

Im uploading my horrible driving to youtube right now. Stay tuned. Unfortunately I didn't get my stupid wreck on video. Kinda wish I had so I could go back a remind myself how dumb I was. Lol

[lenny]

We need a thread just for the blooper video's,
To make us all feel better at times like this.

[Fella1340]

Wholly s--t, you couldn't do that again if you tried!! Is there anything you didn't hit!? It seems you do a thorough job on everything you do! Seriously, that's a bad piece of luck. Now you can finish it exactly the way you want it. You might as well start where you left off on your last post with the rebuilding of MG. I for one would like to see you post the other boats your doing here. Sounds like you will be a busy guy. No time like the present to get started! Cool retrieval boat by the way. I wonder what the damage would have been like without the added carbon fiber you added? I hope the damage is more superficial than anything else. Congrats again on a very thorough job! Glad you could see the humour in it. Jeff

[kfxguy]

Wholly s--t, you couldn't do that again if you tried!! Is there anything you didn't hit!? It seems you do a thorough job on everything you do! Seriously, that's a bad piece of luck. Now you can finish it exactly the way you want it. You might as well start where you left off on your last post with the rebuilding of MG. I for one would like to see you post the other boats your doing here. Sounds like you will be a busy guy. No time like the present to get started! Cool retrieval boat by the way. I wonder what the damage would have been like without the added carbon fiber you added? I hope the damage is more superficial than anything else. Congrats again on a very thorough job! Glad you could see the humour in it. Jeff

Thanks man. Look on YouTube under my user to see my vids. I have the retrieval boat on there. That thing is frigging awesome at how good it works. It had carbon fiber reinforcing in it too. No damage to any of the components or cf work. Just the cheap tupperware I used. Lol. Here's a sneak peak at the new recovery boat. Its gonna be fiberglassed.

107444

Here's one of my vids. My driving usually doesn't suck this bad.....the sun is in my eyes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgGST6OJedc&feature=youtube_gdata_player


Like I said, click on my user name and you can see the recovery boat vids.

On a side note, ill fix the geico in the next few days and paint it a better green color like I wanted too anyway. Just gave me a reason now. Ill flatten and sharper the sponsons. Can't decide if I wanna remove the trim tabs. Them puppies really work. I can change the whole attitude of the boat with them. It does run a little wet scrubbing some speed. Im taking this power attempt out of this boat anyway and putting it into the cheetah. Then im putting a leopard 4082 2200 in the geico. I have a higher amp esc coming to.

[rickwess]

It was running nice in the video. Half the fun is building them anyway.

[Fella1340]

You've got the geico moving good, now you want to put a 4082 in it? I would keep the trim tabs:) that's going to be a rocket! The rescue boat is awesome. Its the first one I have seen that goes underneath the hull and can grab it from any angle. I'm sure your going to miss it, time for the next level of rescue boat! That shocker was really moving to, what did you have in that? I have a 26" here that needs that kinda livening up! Its to bad you didn't get that little mishap on video, that sure would have been something to see. One minute everything is good, next carnage everywhere!

[kfxguy]

It was running nice in the video. Half the fun is building them anyway.

Thanks. I honestly have more fun building it than running it.....weird I know.

[kfxguy]

You've got the geico moving good, now you want to put a 4082 in it? I would keep the trim tabs:) that's going to be a rocket! The rescue boat is awesome. Its the first one I have seen that goes underneath the hull and can grab it from any angle. I'm sure your going to miss it, time for the next level of rescue boat! That shocker was really moving to, what did you have in that? I have a 26" here that needs that kinda livening up! Its to bad you didn't get that little mishap on video, that sure would have been something to see. One minute everything is good, next carnage everywhere!

I thought the 4082 would be a downgrade from the motor I have? I have a 1515 2200kv castle in it. The 4082 will be here's tomorrow so ill compare.

The shockwave has a 1512 2650kv castle motor in it. That thing will scoot but its not stable. If you have a brushless one, put a higher amp (at least 60 amp) esc in it. Keep the stock motor. Run 4s in it with a 45mm graupner prop. That's the setup my son have and it does 35ish mph. With a 5400 mah battery it runs for about 20 mins lol. Does not run hot at all. What I have in mine is way too much. That's why im swapping everything over to the bling hull. Im hoping it'll be more stable.

My rescue boat.....im gonna miss it. It was so frigging awesome. It never failed me. It would even bring back my canopy and canopy seal. I hope my next one could live up to it. That thing would turn so sharp and was extremely stable and controllable.

[rickwess]

I thought the 4082 would be a downgrade from the motor I have? I have a 1515 2200kv castle in it. The 4082 will be here's tomorrow so ill compare.

The 4082 is similar to the 1524 is you believe the printed specs.

[Fella1340]

I didn't realize you had a 1515 2200kv in there. Your still changing it out for a 2200kv motor, are you hoping for less torque and performance because its a Leo motor? I'm not familiar enough with the difference in poles/wind to even guess. The 26" boat I have is a R2 hobbies hull and my first build. It just recently became my learn the basics of cf boat. Turned out good. I haven't selected a new motor.for it yet, 2650kv seems like it would be a little much! I said first build, so far its one of one. The hull in my avatar is going to be number two. I have all the parts here for it (plus a hobby stores worth again) and its driving me crazy not being able to get to work on it. Recovering from back surgery at the moment and having a 5 year old is enough work at the moment! He loves the boats, good driver to! He's getting a hk genesis for Christmas, it will be seriously detuned from its already not so.fast stock self. It will be taller than him! He's loved the genesis since he first saw one and lucky for me the price is reasonable. We don't run where there's anyone else around. The only thing he can hurt is the boat (disclaimer for people who think that's to much boat for a five year old). Good luck on the rescue boat build, hopefully your new one will be able to slide underneath it the way the other one did. So many of the rescue boats I have seem rely on you lining the boat up and getting it between the arms. The way you could grab the boat from the side like that made it awesome. I hope you post the second generation of it, I have more than enough lying around to build one. What type of motor did you use?

[kfxguy]

I didn't realize you had a 1515 2200kv in there. Your still changing it out for a 2200kv motor, are you hoping for less torque and performance because its a Leo motor? I'm not familiar enough with the difference in poles/wind to even guess. The 26" boat I have is a R2 hobbies hull and my first build. It just recently became my learn the basics of cf boat. Turned out good. I haven't selected a new motor.for it yet, 2650kv seems like it would be a little much! I said first build, so far its one of one. The hull in my avatar is going to be number two. I have all the parts here for it (plus a hobby stores worth again) and its driving me crazy not being able to get to work on it. Recovering from back surgery at the moment and having a 5 year old is enough work at the moment! He loves the boats, good driver to! He's getting a hk genesis for Christmas, it will be seriously detuned from its already not so.fast stock self. It will be taller than him! He's loved the genesis since he first saw one and lucky for me the price is reasonable. We don't run where there's anyone else around. The only thing he can hurt is the boat (disclaimer for people who think that's to much boat for a five year old). Good luck on the rescue boat build, hopefully your new one will be able to slide underneath it the way the other one did. So many of the rescue boats I have seem rely on you lining the boat up and getting it between the arms. The way you could grab the boat from the side like that made it awesome. I hope you post the second generation of it, I have more than enough lying around to build one. What type of motor did you use?

I used my stock geico 1500kv motor on 2s with a big graupner prop. so I guess maybe the leopard motor is a bigger motor powerful series than my castle. Maybe castle will stay put and leopard in cheetah. Ill keep you posted on everything.

[kfxguy]

Just went picked up the paint so I can repair it. Gecko green is what I ended up with. Saw another member with that color and I fell in love with it. Heck that's what color I thought the boat was gonna be originally because in a lot of the pics I saw of it before buying it......they looked more green than yellow. Now I just have to find a sticker kit. Maybe yiu guys could come up with something better than the factory sticker kit? Gimme some ideas! :)

[Fella1340]

I wouldnt say the Leo is going to be more powerful. They may be close, one perhaps with more
torque, the other more top end. I am curious to see which is best. Just because the Leo 4082 claims better specs then the 1515 doesn't make it true, can you try both motors in the geiko? Which of the two would you like faster? You may have to play around a bit, half the fun:) the Leo may surprise though#
I didn't know the boat didn't come in geiko green, I learned something! As farI as decals go, you probably know monojeff does decals. I.was surprised at how reasonable they are. I am using the factory fountain logo, lettering red to black with the chrome fountain insignia. Same as they have on there website. Doing that in a couple different sizes with a few of the insignias separate is as fat as I.have got.
Tough when I can't decide on paint. I like the geikio look, perhaps there's some graphic design you like, mono jeff can probably help you there to. He knows what looks good. There seems to be a lot of guys on here that know how to make look great. I am sure somebody will chime in, I may the only one sitting at home with nothing better to do (can do) then surf OSE and other sites all day. Looking for interesting ways to do my build. I ton of cf cloth, sheet, film, tapes and even braided cf for the stuffing tube. 9ft of that should be a lifetimes worth! My time will.come soon. Maybe a.couple more weeks! Your rescue vehicle on the other hand should be black with ghost flames and a skull with a knife driven through the top of its head, just because its a menacing water prowler. That look would give other rescue boats reason to stay away. Might even protect it on land to! Couldn't help it.

[kfxguy]

I wouldnt say the Leo is going to be more powerful. They may be close, one perhaps with more
torque, the other more top end. I am curious to see which is best. Just because the Leo 4082 claims better specs then the 1515 doesn't make it true, can you try both motors in the geiko? Which of the two would you like faster? You may have to play around a bit, half the fun:) the Leo may surprise though#
I didn't know the boat didn't come in geiko green, I learned something! As farI as decals go, you probably know monojeff does decals. I.was surprised at how reasonable they are. I am using the factory fountain logo, lettering red to black with the chrome fountain insignia. Same as they have on there website. Doing that in a couple different sizes with a few of the insignias separate is as fat as I.have got.
Tough when I can't decide on paint. I like the geikio look, perhaps there's some graphic design you like, mono jeff can probably help you there to. He knows what looks good. There seems to be a lot of guys on here that know how to make look great. I am sure somebody will chime in, I may the only one sitting at home with nothing better to do (can do) then surf OSE and other sites all day. Looking for interesting ways to do my build. I ton of cf cloth, sheet, film, tapes and even braided cf for the stuffing tube. 9ft of that should be a lifetimes worth! My time will.come soon. Maybe a.couple more weeks! Your rescue vehicle on the other hand should be black with ghost flames and a skull with a knife driven through the top of its head, just because its a menacing water prowler. That look would give other rescue boats reason to stay away. Might even protect it on land to! Couldn't help it.

Ill try both motors for you and gps and video both. I have two sets of identical battery packs also. Ill try to do on the same day. Would you be willing to sell me a foot or so of the braided cf for the stuffing tube? Might look nice in my cheetah. Ill look the guy up you mentioned. Thx!

[Fella1340]

You get to have all the fun! It would be great to see how each performs, have you got a GPS?
HK just came out with there new version GPS, its a real nice unit for around $50. Does latitude, longitude and elevation as well. When are you getting the blingrocket? Have you got a power source in mind for that? I will send you a foot or so of the braided cf, just pm me your address info and I will send it out in the next few days. I think its a nice touch on the shafts, just a little piece of heat shrink at each
end to cover the cutoff. I am going to try using it over tube for the straight runs for cooling. I have a
Couple of other things I can throw in as well seeing as through you are vacumn bagging. You might be able to add some bling on one of your boats. Are you building the bling rocket from the ground up yourself? Happy testing, should be interesting! I was thinking about the real expensive braided hose you can buy for boats. It looks the same to me as my airbrush hose, you can get 15ft for about $15. My hose is a little pricey to crop up, can't even get the look as its all hose crimped together. I think I am going to be the lab rat and order some. Can't seem to get specific info on them. They take a 1/8" hose barb so if the hose barb inner diameter is an 1/8" hopefully the hose ends up around 4mm. If anybody has already tried this please chime as to whether it work, thanks. Jeff

[kfxguy]

You get to have all the fun! It would be great to see how each performs, have you got a GPS?
HK just came out with there new version GPS, its a real nice unit for around $50. Does latitude, longitude and elevation as well. When are you getting the blingrocket? Have you got a power source in mind for that? I will send you a foot or so of the braided cf, just pm me your address info and I will send it out in the next few days. I think its a nice touch on the shafts, just a little piece of heat shrink at each
end to cover the cutoff. I am going to try using it over tube for the straight runs for cooling. I have a
Couple of other things I can throw in as well seeing as through you are vacumn bagging. You might be able to add some bling on one of your boats. Are you building the bling rocket from the ground up yourself? Happy testing, should be interesting! I was thinking about the real expensive braided hose you can buy for boats. It looks the same to me as my airbrush hose, you can get 15ft for about $15. My hose is a little pricey to crop up, can't even get the look as its all hose crimped together. I think I am going to be the lab rat and order some. Can't seem to get specific info on them. They take a 1/8" hose barb so if the hose barb inner diameter is an 1/8" hopefully the hose ends up around 4mm. If anybody has already tried this please chime as to whether it work, thanks. Jeff

That would be awesome if you sent me some cf braided cf. Ill pm you my address.

Bling rocket, im in the process of getting it now. Hopefully ill get it sometime next week. Im going to run a castle 1512 2650kv motor in it with a mamba monster or turnigy 120amp esc on 4s. Should be very quick. My shockwave would not stay on the water with that setup. Ill be building the whole thing myself. I had a garmin forerunner gps I was using until I flipped the shockwave and it flew out into the lake. So I ordered another last week. Should be here in the next day or so.

If you want some nice quality cooling hose, you can get some from a honda automobile dealer. I work in the parts dept at one and the washer hose we sell just so happens to be the right size and material. Its smoke colored. Part number 95003-0700870m its about 26ft per one bag. If you want some ill send you some. It lists for $14.22 for 26ft.

[Fella1340]

Sounds like you'll have fun with the bling rocket! I will get the cf braided out to you this week. It will all fit in an envelope so all's good. Thanks for the offer to send the hose, for $15 it wouldn't make sense to ship it. The Honda dealer is just up the road I will check it out, seems a good deal. The hose I am talking about has an actual cloth braided outside and rubber tube in the middle, not sure if that's what the Honda stuff is. Get back to building stuff, you've got a lot of work to do!

[kfxguy]

Sounds like you'll have fun with the bling rocket! I will get the cf braided out to you this week. It will all fit in an envelope so all's good. Thanks for the offer to send the hose, for $15 it wouldn't make sense to ship it. The Honda dealer is just up the road I will check it out, seems a good deal. The hose I am talking about has an actual cloth braided outside and rubber tube in the middle, not sure if that's what the Honda stuff is. Get back to building stuff, you've got a lot of work to do!

The honda hose isn't braided. Its smoke colored high quality vinyl type material. Its not rubber or silicone. It looks really good too.

[kfxguy]

Stripped the stickers off last night. Found more damage than I thought. Looks like they use Elmer's glue or something cheap to hold the hull halves together. Don't worry....I have a plan for that!

[srislash]

One layer fiver tape over seams after grinding the crap out of it. I have a thread here under Transom Fix showing what I did.

[kfxguy]

One layer fiver tape over seams after grinding the crap out of it. I have a thread here under Transom Fix showing what I did.
Thanks. Ill check it out. That was my plan.

[kfxguy]

Well I'd drill the tunnel or the hull now lol. It was on my counter last night getting ready for repairs and I walked off to go check on my dinner inside. As I walked out the door....I heard a loud bang. Yea...it slide off the counter onto the floor and took out the rear corner on the transom. It looks bad. Should have taken a pic of if but I was disgusted. I almost threw it in the garbage can. Then I saw all the work u just did and couldn't do it

[Fella1340]

Its only fiberglass! Its good opportunity to strengthen the transom up. It needed paint anyways. Sorry about the bad luck. A little fiberglass and filler and she's as good as new. Good practice for when you get a new boat that is a raw hull

[kfxguy]

Its only fiberglass! Its good opportunity to strengthen the transom up. It needed paint anyways. Sorry about the bad luck. A little fiberglass and filler and she's as good as new. Good practice for when you get a new boat that is a raw hull

I know I know. But it almost made me sick when I saw that big chunk broken off! I laid some resin on it last night. Ill start sanding tonight and strengthen the inside. I filled the coolant exit home too. I hated where it was because the hose is right in the way when putting the battery on that side in. Guess I might as well redo things my way

[srislash]

Its only fiberglass! Its good opportunity to strengthen the transom up. It needed paint anyways. Sorry about the bad luck. A little fiberglass and filler and she's as good as new. Good practice for when you get a new boat that is a raw hull

My thoughts exactly. The Miss Behavin' was a good learning curve for my Geico twin(thread on that one too).

[Billy Barnacle]

Lol. Nobody cares. Guess I wasted my time posting this. Lmao

I care!!

Have a brand new IM31, like still in the box - afraid to run it before re-inforcing the interior because of all the stories of people having the wood interiors come loose from the hull.

Then I see this vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17Fhh4iKV0M - and ask myself, what's all the fuss about?? That boat takes a serious pounding before the hatch issue at the end.

Back to the IM31, I'm one of the lucky ones, got a really nice clean copy of a v1 with no cracks in the hatch, interior in perfect condition, no complaints what-so-ever. Doubt if I'll ever be able to afford another FE, so want to make this boat as nice as I possibly can.

Only prob is that I don't s**t about fiber-glassing R/C boats. Like what to use for resin & where to get it?? Lotta people say to use Z-Poxy, BUT. it's just that, epoxy, not FG resin & catalyst / hardener.

What resin / catalyst did you use & where did you find it?? Did you hunt down instructions on the net or fly by the seat of your pants??

Sorry for the dumb questions, but just don't know where to start, and yeah, I'm feelin a bit like an idiot :doh:

[kfxguy]

I care!!

Have a brand new IM31, like still in the box - afraid to run it before re-inforcing the interior because of all the stories of people having the wood interiors come loose from the hull.

Then I see this vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17Fhh4iKV0M - and ask myself, what's all the fuss about?? That boat takes a serious pounding before the hatch issue at the end.

Back to the IM31, I'm one of the lucky ones, got a really nice clean copy of a v1 with no cracks in the hatch, interior in perfect condition, no complaints what-so-ever. Doubt if I'll ever be able to afford another FE, so want to make this boat as nice as I possibly can.

Only prob is that I don't s**t about fiber-glassing R/C boats. Like what to use for resin & where to get it?? Lotta people say to use Z-Poxy, BUT. it's just that, epoxy, not FG resin & catalyst / hardener.

What resin / catalyst did you use & where did you find it?? Did you hunt down instructions on the net or fly by the seat of your pants??

Sorry for the dumb questions, but just don't know where to start, and yeah, I'm feelin a bit like an idiot :doh:

First off, the wood stuff in the interior did detach on mine. It did take several poundings before it did tho. I think its well worth doing. I crashed it right after I did the carbon inlay and it all held together even tho the hull split in a few places. For now in when I do a carbon inlay the hull seam will be included.

I used resin designed for carbon fiber. This is what I used
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Epoxy-Resin-System-for-Carbon-Fiber-Fiberglass-Kevlar-6-oz-/321240382092?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item4acb6b3a8c

I've got a little experience with cf so I just dove into it.

[Billy Barnacle]

...First off, the wood stuff in the interior did detach on mine...
Most people say the same thing, its not if, but when. Hull splits also seem to be common, I've seen the pix, so I know it's true.

That's why I feel that it would be in my best interest to tie the wood to the hull with glass cloth + resin, not just resin or Z-Poxy alone. Also re-inforce the side walls of the hull (in critical area's) with glass cloth & resin.

...I think its well worth doing...
That seems to be the consense's - re-inforce the hatch / canopy as well.

Never thought to look on fleabay for resin, thanks for the heads up, that's a fair price.

In one of your posts you mentioned a paint roller you got at Home Depot or Lowe's, correct me if I'm wrong... you have a link or pic of it??

Thanks for the help :wink:




First off, the wood stuff in the interior did detach on mine. It did take several poundings before it did tho. I think its well worth doing. I crashed it right after I did the carbon inlay and it all held together even tho the hull split in a few places. For now in when I do a carbon inlay the hull seam will be included.

I used resin designed for carbon fiber. This is what I used
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Epoxy-Resin-System-for-Carbon-Fiber-Fiberglass-Kevlar-6-oz-/321240382092?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item4acb6b3a8c

I've got a little experience with cf so I just dove into it.

[kfxguy]

...First off, the wood stuff in the interior did detach on mine...
Most people say the same thing, its not if, but when. Hull splits also seem to be common, I've seen the pix, so I know it's true.

That's why I feel that it would be in my best interest to tie the wood to the hull with glass cloth + resin, not just resin or Z-Poxy alone. Also re-inforce the side walls of the hull (in critical area's) with glass cloth & resin.

...I think its well worth doing...
That seems to be the consense's - re-inforce the hatch / canopy as well.

Never thought to look on fleabay for resin, thanks for the heads up, that's a fair price.

In one of your posts you mentioned a paint roller you got at Home Depot or Lowe's, correct me if I'm wrong... you have a link or pic of it??

Thanks for the help :wink:

The foam roller is a little mini paint roller yiu get in the paint section. Its for getting into tight spots. You can get extra rollers for it too. Only costs like $4.