The "Bling Rocket" build

[srislash]

Well folks this has been on the shelf for awhile but it is time to start as winter is coming. Bear with me as my laptop has died so I am IPhone'ing this up.
So we have one plain ole' Pursuit hull to start

[srislash]

Ok there is the glitch. No instant photos
I put a huge post in that first one but it ended up being all links to photo ads

[srislash]

And a new workshop to work in. I have been working on this for awhile now

[srislash]

These are the parts that I have,trim tabs,turn fins, a rudder, a black can Castle 1515 and a 220amp Swordy ESC, as well as the CF sheet they rest on

[srislash]

So I am going to go with the strut/flood tube form of driveline. I got this Cf tube for it as well as the strut which I have drilled this afternoon

[srislash]

So this will get a full carbon layup as well as a couple stringers running up the bow attaching deck to hull with CF sheet. I did this to the 35" DF after all the stress cracks started showing up.
So I pose a question to you guys, to flood chamber it or not? I want this thing to be just "throw n'go". Though it has been awhile since I have flipped my DF

[lenny]

The flood chamber sound cool,
But I do not think you really need it.
What kv is the 1515 ?
And do you have plans to run it on more than 6s at some time ?
I just bought another Pursuit but the hull dead rise is a little different than,
My Kintec Pursuit hull.
This one looks like your hull at the transom and water line.

This is Kintec hull.
106853106854106855106856106857

[srislash]

It is a 2200 kv Lenny. I think it will do the trick.
Yup, I could save some weight and time/room by not going with the chamber. My last few spills with the DF have been submarine'ing. So far it looks like I will have to stuff the motor back tight to get my CG.
Don't know about 6s but 5s for sure.
All hardware is mounted, I'll get pics up soon.

[lenny]

This new one has the 4082 2200kv in it.
The one I have been testing I put the 4074 1800kv in with a modded x447/3,
I have been testing it on 4s,5s,6s and it running pretty good so far.

[srislash]

This new one has the 4082 2200kv in it.
The one I have been testing I put the 4074 1800kv in with a modded x447/3,
I have been testing it on 4s,5s,6s and it running pretty good so far.

So yours are RTR's then? I have a 1518 1800kv or 1520 1600kv here if I wanted bigger. But I think 4s2p 8000-10,000 mah is enough for this hull.
I do like running 1800kv, it leaves lots of options.

[srislash]

So how were the bottoms on yours Lenny? I see this one is convex in the flat area.

[lenny]

The new one looks pretty flat and yes it is ready to run,
But needs the flex up graded to one piece.
But the one in the pictures need a lot of tlc.
I bought it used and it is pretty banged up on the bottom of the whole hull,
But you would not know it by the way it is running so good.

[srislash]

Ah a little glazing putty will clean up the bottom Len.

I'm gonna haft to put some up pressure on the bottom when I do the inlay.
Got the wet well cut and set,motor mount drilled and set where I like it. Next to cut stringers.

[srislash]

Ok, here is hardware,and where the motor is going to go.

[srislash]

And this is the convex I wrote of;
I think if I put a board or something over the area then tape against it, it will hold it up till my layup cures.it is way easier to fill than sand off that kind of abnormality.

[lenny]

That is coming together pretty fast,
Not sure how that hull is going to run with that motor at it back door like that.
I can not what to see how it handles,
But I guess the cells will level it all out in the end.

[srislash]

The motor in the back like that Lenny has come from my DF and the issues I had with it forward. I had a dickens of a time with it hopping around because I had a hard time getting the weight right. Also I can use the rear(stern) motor mount bolts as a pivot point to allow strut adjustment. Tony is running one of his in this fashion too.

[srislash]

So back to progress:
I have made my bulkheads/stringers 106907106908
And this the layout106909106910
I think I may go the direct solder route with the motor ESC but at any rate going to simply lay the ESC on the batteries, perhaps with Velcro.
I will need to make a new CF side for the motor to accommodate that servo on the bottom right of second pic.

[srislash]

Well I have got to work today but did manage to get one side of the integrated motor mount done106943106942

I am also changing the water inlet of the motor cooler can, so epoxy is setting in the old hole right now.

[lenny]

Very nice looking stuff you made there,
I like how you made them bulkheads & stringers and trays to.
How much would you want for set like that.

[srislash]

The trays are Steven's Len. What are you after there, I have been making my own CF sheets.

[gsbuickman]

Nice bro, sorry I didn't catch this thread sooner. One of these days I want to pick up one of Steven's pursuits :-) ...... For now I need to finish my villain, my rigger, my vintage shovelnose & maybe twin my mean machine :-) .

[srislash]

Nice bro, sorry I didn't catch this thread sooner. One of these days I want to pick up one of Steven's pursuits :-) ...... For now I need to finish my villain, my rigger, my vintage shovelnose & maybe twin my mean machine :-) .

Haha, yeah I got a rigger down too. Had a Lehner :flame42: but going Castle now. I at some point would like to twin a MM. They seem to favor it. And have to get the Bud hydro settled before doing the one I got off you GSB.:thumbup:

Lenny, I am going to make templates of all this stuff this AM. I hope

[lenny]

Cool that is a great idea to do,:thumbup1:

My hulls look pretty thick in the lay up.
But I still like the idea of bulkheads & stringers for the boat,
The old kintec hull has a small crack at the hatch latch insert that needs some epoxy around it for strength.

Looks like you will have some nice room to work in with that new shop.
That is what I really need now,
I have been looking at some rancher with basements and pole burns for a shop.
Very hard to work on stuff with out some more room hear.

[srislash]

Yup, I fluked out meeting Leigh(my love and awesome chick) as she has a nice rancher with that detached garage that I claimed a 10'X12' cozy room + there is the rest of the garage.

So here is the filled "site"hole in the cooling jacket and the relocated inlet on the opposite side
107036107037

And here are my mount parts complete

107038

[lenny]

I was trying everything in this hull 3S 5000 single 4s 4000 single 5s 3800 single and 6s 5000 single.
They all made it run nice, Also in 4s 4000 and 5300 parallel to.
Also ran 2s 5000 in series to and it ran good.
And when I tested them they where all just about in the same placement in back of the motor at the end cap,
Or a inch or two from it.
I will check my CG again with some cells in place today after work,
And see what I come up with like that.

[srislash]

Thanks Len. With all my 2p sets (4s,5s,6s) I can move CG from 9"-10+". That is with centre placement, I could go with freeboard placement yet though my experience with the DF makes me shy away from it.

[lenny]

Yes I have not tried the packs on each side of the motor yet,
I think center is better for me when coming off of some nice chop helps keep top side up.

[lenny]

Ok I tried 4 different packs in the boat and checked the CG again,
All the packs I tried where 1" from the back of the motor cap.
The packs where 4s 4000mah and CG was 10", 4s 5300 and 5s 3800 was the same 10",
Also did the 4s 5300 in parallel side by side and CG was 10"3/8, And 6s 5000 was 10.5 CG.
So I am not sure but you should be good with the setup,
You may just need to trim your tabs down some from neutral.

[srislash]

Thanks Len, that is reassuring. I do have the ESC to move a bit yet too if needed.
Worked on motor/tube alignment tonight, getting close, should have 3/8" up down strut travel. Might get bottom of strut level with bottom of hull for the "loose" ride then up for stability.

[rickwess]

Looking good Shawn. I'll be following this close since I'll building a DF Pirate 35 over the winter..........LP 4082 1600kv, 6s2p. It'll be my 2nd boat, but my first build.

My biggest concern is being able to keep the CoG correct in both directions. As you have pointed out already the main influencer will be those big a$$ 6s's. I was thinking of a similar layout as yours, but I've noticed most here like to move the motor much farther toward the bow. Your layout is very similar to that of the Revolts (my first boat). The CoG was really easy to adjust once I pullled the stock tray out and replaced with CF. Like on the Revolt, have you thought about placing the ESC beside the motor on the opposite side of the Servo? It would eliminate the PITA factor of having to move the ESC to pull the batteries.

I like your CF work. What tools do you use to make them?

I was going to reinforce the bow of the boat using the very unimaginative method of 2 part foam. I do multiple smaller pours so to make sure I get an nice even fill, grind the front face flat and square then glass it in.

[rickwess]

Sorry, I have a really basic question that I want to ask. What's the purpose of a flooded tube? I'm thinking that unless the boat is stationary, that tube tube isn't flooded. :confused1:

[srislash]

Haha , yeah not flooded but leaves room for strut adjustment. A tedious setup with such a short stuffing tube keeping alignment and adjustability. I have been moving the stinger around on my 35" DF trying to get it "settled". A lot of disassembly and resin work for that.

BTW went with bulkhead instead of foam as I cannot be certain of the weight of the foam till I do one. Thought about it though. I know others here have done it and added 2lbs of weight to the cats.

[martin]

Sorry, I have a really basic question that I want to ask. What's the purpose of a flooded tube? I'm thinking that unless the boat is stationary, that tube tube isn't flooded. :confused1:
Flooded tube is just a term used because the tube is a large diameter tube open at the transom, the idea of the large diam tube is to give a lot of up or down adjustment of the strut as the stuffing tube is only attached at the front of the flood tube. Hence allowing a bit of bend in the stuffing tube when moving the strut up or down.

[RandyatBBY]

Flooded tube is just a term used because the tube is a large diameter tube open at the transom, the idea of the large diam tube is to give a lot of up or down adjustment of the strut as the stuffing tube is only attached at the front of the flood tube. Hence allowing a bit of bend in the stuffing tube when moving the strut up or down.

The stuffing tube will take the path of least resistance. It will move the sealer on the end of the tube and not bend the stuffing tube.

[rickwess]

I know others here have done it and added 2lbs of weight to the cats.
That's a lot of foam. When I foamed the bow of my Revolt, I used about 1 dixie cup worth of liquid.

What are you using to form the CF parts?

[rickwess]

Flooded tube is just a term used because the tube is a large diameter tube open at the transom, the idea of the large diam tube is to give a lot of up or down adjustment of the strut as the stuffing tube is only attached at the front of the flood tube. Hence allowing a bit of bend in the stuffing tube when moving the strut up or down.
Ah, makes sense. I was taking the term too literal. Obviously not possible with a stinger set-up.

[martin]

The stuffing tube will take the path of least resistance. It will move the sealer on the end of the tube and not bend the stuffing tube.
Yes I should of used the term allowing the stuffing tube to flex with movement of the strut rather than the term bending the stuffing tube.

[gsbuickman]

Haha , yeah not flooded but leaves room for strut adjustment. A tedious setup with such a short stuffing tube keeping alignment and adjustability. I have been moving the stinger around on my 35" DF trying to get it "settled". A lot of disassembly and resin work for that.

BTW went with bulkhead instead of foam as I cannot be certain of the weight of the foam till I do one. Thought about it though. I know others here have done it and added 2lbs of weight to the cats.

Good information for the day, but 2lbs of foam weight does seem like a lot. Are you referring to a type of spray in expanding foam, or the mix Ina cup pourable foam ?.

The entire nose of my mm cat is sprayed in. It seems like a lot of foam was used in this thing, but I doubt it'll weigh a pound :tiphat:

[srislash]

I had merely read the 2lbs in a thread but it seemed to stick in the brain. I will try to keep track of the weight added by various things here (ie:bulkheads,inlay, and such). Just be good knowledge.

[RandyatBBY]

The 2Lbs was for a cubic foot. If you can find it, there is one pound per cubic foot foam. that should make it easier for you.

[srislash]

The 2Lbs was for a cubic foot. If you can find it, there is one pound per cubic foot foam. that should make it easier for you.
Good to know Randy, thanks.

[kfxguy]

I like this little boat. Where can I get one? Fightercat is out of stock.

[lenny]

I think HK has them in stock.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16512__Pursuit_V_Hull_Boat_820mm_Fibreglass_Hull _Only.html

[tiqueman]

looking good Shawn. I rebuilt my pursuit before I sold it moving the motor back and what a difference. Your on the right track :beerchug:

[lenny]

Have any old pictures of the boat and setup before you sold it ?

[kfxguy]

I think HK has them in stock.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16512__Pursuit_V_Hull_Boat_820mm_Fibreglass_Hull _Only.html

Dang. I guess I missed the part about it being 32" I thought the bling rocket was only offered in 26" (which is what I want) thanks for looking out tho!

[tiqueman]

Have any old pictures of the boat and setup before you sold it ?

I think that's the first boat Ive ever not had pics of.... Ive searched my computer all over and nothing. :confused2:

It was very close to what Shawns doing, accept for the battery plate. I made an aluminum tray with a threaded rod thru the middle and an upper plate w/ a wingnut to keep things secure. If you've seen my 26 bling its the same thing I did in it.

That set up ran significantly better than the factory. Much better balance and the wobble went away... I guess with the batts in the center rather than the sides. I dunno, im a cat guy :laugh:

[lenny]

Is this it ?
And was it a HK hull , And if so was the hull layup good like most of the pursuit hull ?

This is all I could find so far of yours.

107237107238107239

[tiqueman]

Yeah hk hull and that was it in its original form, not rebuilt.

[rickwess]

Here it is

107243

[tiqueman]

That's the 26 I built. Not the modded pursuit. But yeah.. looked similar to that

[srislash]

A cat guy you are buddy, pretty much me as well but I had to build a mono from bottom up. And get my build juices going again.

My finding with the DF was that it would pitch back and forth at speed (to the point of submarine) with batteries on the sides hence the bottom of hull home here.
I was thinking of the tray/hold down system but had the tray here so went for it .

Good to have you aboard Scott :-)

[srislash]

Happy Halloween folks. Had a little spare time after ghosts and goblins so me and the helper

107298

Got the convex hook worked out. Now I just need to inlay then fill the low spots and sharpen transom edge. Hoping for inlay,stringer,motor mount,trays this weekend.:Praying:

[lenny]

That is a very scary mask. :scared:

[srislash]

That is a very scary mask. :scared:

Her name is Bella so she doesn't't feel so bad. Bella of course Italian for beautiful,LOL.
Testing this weekend Lenny?

[lenny]

Sorry Bella,:tongue_smilie:
Someone hit the nail on the head when they named her that. :wub:

Hear is are two very scary boys. :lol:

107300

[srislash]

Sorry Bella,:tongue_smilie:
Someone hit the nail on the head when they named her that. :wub:

Hear is are two very scary boys. :lol:

107300
Drinking from the "well" I see. Three cats here too, Burt is the one who comes to my room for visits, I'll get a pic at some point.

[tiqueman]

Ha, my parents have a yellow lab named Bella. Looking forward to seeing the weekend progress Shawn.

[srislash]

So quick question here guys, Any reason to Cf my hatch lid on this one? Seems fairly sturdy for its purpose. Will do it while the epoxy is flowin' but kinda thinking a chunk of foam and that be it.
Oh and the other mascot : Burt=25lbs
107378

So hull is ready for inlay and weighs in at 2lbs even with hatch.:blink:

[tiqueman]

I don't think its necessary. I had some nasty crashes when I had mine and never had any damage. Theres always that "just the right way" hit, so I'd say if u want extra protection do it if u have resin flowing... or if u don't feel like it don't. :lol: I know real helpful

[lenny]

That is all I did to my hatch so far,:thumbup1:
I just added the piece of pool noodle.
After the hatch came off because I hate using tape and had at the time one piece holding the hatch on,
And got lucky it just floated back to me upside down.
Than I said to my self need foam in hatch dummy.:Sinking:
I never had a roll over with this hull so far it is very stable runner.

That is a big Pussy at 25lb,
Ours are 16lb each.

[srislash]

107380

And I know there is a current thread going on CF but this is my roller that has been in my head for awhile and recently found a source for the foam balls for donation.

[srislash]

That is all I did to my hatch so far,:thumbup1:
I just added the piece of pool noodle.
After the hatch came off because I hate using tape and had at the time one piece holding the hatch on,
And got lucky it just floated back to me upside down.
Than I said to my self need foam in hatch dummy.:Sinking:
I never had a roll over with this hull so far it is very stable runner.

That is a big Pussy at 25lb,
Ours are 16lb each.
Thanks guys, chunk of foam it is. And yup he be big Len, he was really put off when that bulldog came lumbering in. He wasn't the big guy anymore, LOL.

[srislash]

CF installed:w00t:

107398

[srislash]

CF installed:w00t:

107398

And while epoxy is on, a little padding on the stand ;-)

107402

[lenny]

New short video up,:tiphat:
And you can do my hulls in cf to any time. :beerchug:

[rickwess]

So quick question here guys, Any reason to Cf my hatch lid on this one? Seems fairly sturdy for its purpose. Will do it while the epoxy is flowin' but kinda thinking a chunk of foam and that be it.
Oh and the other mascot : Burt=25lbs
107378

So hull is ready for inlay and weighs in at 2lbs even with hatch.:blink:
Not if you want a GPS to work from inside. The CF will block the signal.

You could glass the hatch and seal the foam in. Would give a nice clean look.

[rickwess]

CF installed:w00t:

107398
Looks like a great job. How far did you go past the hatch opening?

[srislash]

Looks like a great job. How far did you go past the hatch opening?

I have gone halfway to the bow from hatch. I have the stringers in now too, they will cover any additional beefing up in the nose deck area.

I have external GPS so I am good there .

[srislash]

New short video up,:tiphat:
And you can do my hulls in cf to any time. :beerchug:
Thanks Lenny,that foam ball works great, can't wait to do the Fantasm

[kfxguy]

Looks good man. Can't wait to get my bling rocket!

[srislash]

Alright, the planned mission has been completed. I got the mounts, stringers, trays all in (and the other necessary household chores).

107456107455

Just got to roll a bit of epoxy down the top of stringers under the deck this morn before work.:banana:

[srislash]

Looks good man. Can't wait to get my bling rocket!

Thanks, one of the little guys would be fun.

[rickwess]

Looks nice and clean.

How are you going to loosen and tighten the collet? It looks buried under that tab but it must be an optical illusion. It doesn't look like my fat fingers would fit in there.

[srislash]

It's gonna be a bit tight but that tab may be leaving

[lenny]

The black just makes it look so much cleaner than mine does,
Ok god dammit gump where is that can of glossy black paint ? :bounce:

If I had mine setup like yours that tab would have to go,
It will look a lot better with out it anyway.

It is weird some have the tab and some do not.
My old one has it and the new one I just got does not,
Not really sure what it's purpose was for.
Because it is not very strong as it is to be a hatch hold down mount.

[srislash]

I had thoughts of using that one Aeromarine hatch lock that I now have here. But just one:huh:, probably not enough. I will examine the subject tonight.

I am getting excited about paint and have a plan goin' in my head. I have to keep up with Lenny's fantastic looking one.
It has been awhile since the paint has excited me, which is good because I have the Komodo to paint and put to rest too.

[lenny]

Just one is what I was thinking of using to, :sorry:
But not there on that tab.
Because since I got this boat and have been running and testing it,
It flipped once on me going over a jet ski wake and rolled landing on the hatch that I only had may be three 2" pieces of tape on.
And the hatch stayed on with very little water that got in the hull, :blah:
Because I hate using the tape when testing and taking temps & gps reading all the time,
So I like to use one or so thumb nuts and some kind of seal on the hatch or on the hull opening.
I did my Bolt hydro something like that and it works great with no tape,
And that is what I was going to do with this boat to as well the rest of my boat in time.
Hear what I did to the hydro Bolt and was planing to do for the Pursuit to,
It pulls all four corner down at one time on this for a good seal.
That I held the boat under water and nothing got in,
But it need to look good to. :lol:

107492107493107494107495107496

[srislash]

There are some good door/window soft seal that I have used for a few of mine Len.

So my first glitch occurred when I went adjust the back of the up. The cap screw and come washer were too long and hit the tailring.
107504107505
So I dug around and found a taper head screw and matching washer. Lucky

[gsbuickman]

Alright, the planned mission has been completed. I got the mounts, stringers, trays all in (and the other necessary household chores).

107456107455

Just got to roll a bit of epoxy down the top of stringers under the deck this morn before work.:banana:

Hell yeah Slash, she's lookin' good bro. I like it :-)

[Fella1340]

Looking fantastic! I really like the combined motor mount /.servo mount. That's just good thinking!

[kfxguy]

Looks great! Got a question...how do yiu secure the batteries with the slots running that direction in your battery trays? Mine go the length wise.
Like this

107508

107509

[srislash]

Thanks for the appreciation guys. I like how it is coming together.
Looks great! Got a question...how do yiu secure the batteries with the slots running that direction in your battery trays? Mine go the length wise.
Like this

107508

107509

I have they trays spaced up a bit with the tabs that come with them. Then I can Velcro right around tray and battery,can do length wise as well if need be.
Started on the final stuffing tube this AM so I can get the flood tube in. Still haven't quite figured how to seal the front of the tube by motor. So far thinking some soft closed cell foam. Have to check what is at the Foam Shop.

[rickwess]

Keep up the good work. I'm getting lots of ideas.

I just ordered my hull yesterday.......a Insane 34 mono with CF sandwiched between the layers of S-Glass they normally use. Now the waiting game begins. :Praying:

[Fella1340]

I ordered a sample pack with my last cloth order and of had a sample of.the S-glass in it. I was
quite impressed with it. If I end up with a glass job to do that's what I think I will use. Side by side
with. fiberglass isn't even a fair comparison. Sounds like that will be one tough hull!

[kfxguy]

Thanks for the appreciation guys. I like how it is coming together.

I have they trays spaced up a bit with the tabs that come with them. Then I can Velcro right around tray and battery,can do length wise as well if need be.
Started on the final stuffing tube this AM so I can get the flood tube in. Still haven't quite figured how to seal the front of the tube by motor. So far thinking some soft closed cell foam. Have to check what is at the Foam Shop.

If you don't mind, post a pic up with a battery mounted so I can get a visual of what your talking about when you get a chance. Thx

[srislash]

I'll post it tonight bud.

Kinda surprised I have had no comments on my cockeyed motor mounting.:laugh:

[lenny]

Ok, :tongue_smilie:
I think if your blind you did a very good job on the motor mounting. :lol:

[srislash]

Ok, :tongue_smilie:
I think if your blind you do a very good job on the motor mounting. :lol:
Well... I'm not blind,hehe. I used to do this in the old brushed days to help with torque roll. Really helps on a rigger on takeoff.

Thanks for biting Lenny.

[rickwess]

Kinda surprised I have had no comments on my cockeyed motor mounting.:laugh:
I thought it might be a weird distortion from angle the pic was taken.

[lenny]

:tiphat:
Ah ha I learned something today master Shawn. :moon:
This should be very interesting and entertaining to watch running, :popcorn2:
That is if you remember to charge the camcorder and bring it with you. :lol:

[srislash]

:tiphat:
Ah ha I learned something today master Shawn. :moon:
This should be very interesting and entertaining to watch running, :popcorn2:
That is if you remember to charge the camcorder and bring it with you. :lol:
Of course I shall remember vid Len, not sure about "master" but there are a few tricks rattling around from the old Puget Sound racing days. The trick is offset it enough to counter torque but not make the boat lean while sitting.

[srislash]

Ok, so got my little tube bent to just right. So I ask if anyone has a good idea for sealing this tube yet allowing the flex the ability to move up and down.
107532107533

I have not glued the Cf tube in yet so it can be moved to make the flex tube more central. I was thinking a light foam, I haven't found suitable grommets. Memory foam perhaps? Ideas?

[lenny]

Hey,
What is the ID and OD of the Cf tube ?

[srislash]

Hey,
What is the ID and OD of the Cf tube ?
Id is 5/8" and OD is 3/4" Lenny.

How about wetsuit neoprene??:confused2:

[srislash]

Looks great! Got a question...how do yiu secure the batteries with the slots running that direction in your battery trays? Mine go the length wise.
Like this

107508

107509
Here is how mine go KFX107545for yours you could put slots on the sides for a Velcro strap before glueing in.

[tiqueman]

Like this

[rickwess]

Id is 5/8" and OD is 3/4" Lenny.

Where can you get CF tube that large? I can only find the smaller diameters at my LHS.

[srislash]

Where can you get CF tube that large? I can only find the smaller diameters at my LHS.

I found it at one of the suppliers. Anything up to 12" I think,it was a sample cut end 6" long piece for $5

[rickwess]

Suppliers?

[srislash]

FG suppliers, US Composites

[lenny]

I was thinking of of a rubber end cap or rubber plug and than just add a hole for the stuffing tube,
Or may be a piece of fuel line 5/8 x 1/4 and sealer.
The memory foam sounded like it may work good to.

I use straps to sometimes,
But I put one or two piece of foam under the strap sometimes too.
It just helps get things a little tighter and to hold the cell a little better when there is no velcro on them.



Id is 5/8" and OD is 3/4" Lenny.

How about wetsuit neoprene??:confused2:

[rickwess]

How about a modified linkage boot? The wide side on the CF tube and the narrow side on the stuffing tube.

[srislash]

How about a modified linkage boot? The wide side on the CF tube and the narrow side on the stuffing tube.
Now this idea I like. I will have to do a search when I find time.

[lenny]

Yap I saw that done on hear some where before.:noidea:

[RandyatBBY]

Dubro #3108 I have in stock will work. But I like the rubber plug better. You could push it in and out as you move the strut have metal bands that hold in place and loosen them to push out and move setup.

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/81/3nke.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/3nke.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

[srislash]

Dubro #3108 I have in stock will work. But I like the rubber plug better. You could push it in and out as you move the strut have metal bands that hold in place and loosen them to push out and move setup.

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/81/3nke.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/3nke.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)mind shooting me up a pack Randy?

[RandyatBBY]

You will still need to have a mount on the stuffing tube. They are $3.98 and $6.shipping and handling PP randyatbby@gmail.com

[srislash]

You will still need to have a mount on the stuffing tube. They are $3.98 and $6.shipping and handling PP randyatbby@gmail.com

Sent $$ Randy. Yeah, I'll figure something out. You think if I put some "barbs" on the tube like one would have on cooling lines that would do it?

[RandyatBBY]

Sent $$ Randy. Yeah, I'll figure something out. You think if I put some "barbs" on the tube like one would have on cooling lines that would do it?

Thanks for the $$$ It does not take much but some thing is needed to hold the stuffing tube in place. As far as the boot the barbs will work. Little tired now I will pack and mail tomorrow

[srislash]

Thanks for the $$$ It does not take much but some thing is needed to hold the stuffing tube in place. As far as the boot the barbs will work. Little tired now I will pack and mail tomorrow

Thanks Randy, good job on coming up with them.

Ok, guess I should leave the flood tube alone for a couple weeks and move to bodywork.
This one is gonna take a bit for the bottom. I like good square trailing edges and flat running surfaces so the glazing putty will come into play. Should have plenty of time this weekend.

[srislash]

Well my servo and a few other things arrived yesterday. I am going to try one of these Savox WP servos, Found em for $45
107705

And this has nothing to do with this hull but,check these:

107706

Just some "bling" in the case of the 4blades but the bronze are 4217's for the Fantasm

Oh, and just weighed the hull bare and got 1200 grams or just shy of 2 3/4lbs

[srislash]

So onto hull prep. I have a few issues on this one, there is a strange warp on the rear part of the deck that looks matte on finish but is also somewhat of a line(bad one) in the body. I will smooth it. Here are a couple pics

107712107713

Next is a little sanding of the seam as I like them to be smooth

107717

[lenny]

You go boy !:tiphat:
While you do that I am going out running mine with bad bottom gelcoat, warps, and lines, :lol:
I also will be trying out the to two new kayak rigs and that should be fun I hope. :sinking-guy:
Keep up the good work, :thumbup1:

I'll be back I hope to check on your progress.:tongue_smilie:

[flraptor07]

Well my servo and a few other things arrived yesterday. I am going to try one of these Savox WP servos, Found em for $45
107705

And this has nothing to do with this hull but,check these:

107706

Just some "bling" in the case of the 4blades but the bronze are 4217's for the Fantasm

Oh, and just weighed the hull bare and got 1200 grams or just shy of 2 3/4lbs
Those Savox WP servos are great, I've been using them in all my boats. Plenty strong and very smooth.

[kfxguy]

Here is how mine go KFX107545for yours you could put slots on the sides for a Velcro strap before glueing in.

Ahhh. Ok. Thx. My straps go through my slots.

[srislash]

Those Savox WP servos are great, I've been using them in all my boats. Plenty strong and very smooth.
Glad to hear as I bought three of them:thumbup1:

[srislash]

Ok I have pretty much addressed the seam issue so now the transom. We all know that the best thing for any trailing edge in H2O is a clean one. So this transom is not perfect...

107728107729

And this is my old school trick that I picked up from Graupner to remedy round trailing edges.

107730

[kfxguy]

Good stuff. My bling just got here. Ill be using some info from here on my build.

[srislash]

So got a bit of progress. When I installed the motor mount I weighted the mount a bit and rested the hull bottom on wood in hopes of getting rid of those convex hooks. Which, worked for the most part,but one corner of the mount still pushed down a tad much. You will see this in the second pic, the first is where I filled the concave areas with Glazing putty for the first time

107777

This is after wet sanding and ready for another coat

107778

You can see the dark convex spot on the top left where I went thru the gel coat. One more coat of glaze and hopefully that is it.

[srislash]

Alright, ready for paint. I need to get primer from LHS today as I am going Tamiya a Pearl white and want to stick with same brand at least for base coat. Constructed a paint booth so I can keep some heat in the area.
107834

And in light of another members recent mishap, I got serious about covering the interior
107835

First I will start on the bottom with straight white. I got the bottom smoothed and squared the strakes by running the sanding block down the length of them.

[srislash]

107842107843107845

Here are the proper pics

[Southwest]

I noticed the bottom of boat has primer on it. Just read the earlier postings where you found rockers. I'd sharpen the strakes as they would aide in turning. You have to be very careful there as you already know about gel coat . I found at hobby shop, small triangular strips that are sharp and CAed and ran them the full length of strake. Now in wooden boat, the strake edges are sharp which are basswood and cover with CA and show no wear.

[lenny]

Looking good,
That Tamiya Pearl white is going to look nice on that hull.

[tiqueman]

And in light of another members recent mishap, I got serious about covering the interior
107835.

Eeeasyyyyy.....

[lenny]

Yes is,
It was not flat and had convex spots at the ride pads,
Most of them do have that in spots.
Mine has that convex a little bit and is missing some gelcoat on the bottom to,
But that is how I got it in the swap shop on hear.
Some day I will give it some TLC and may be do it in the Tamiya Pearl white to.


I noticed the bottom of boat has primer on it. Now was this due to finding the bottom has rockers or depreesions, same thing?

[gsbuickman]

Nice job bro, mesa' like. Have you seen the new Rustoleum glo in the dark paint yet ?. I was watching reviews of it last night. It would be useless on a boat, cause we only run in the daylight, but it would be kool as a top coat :).......

[Southwest]

Since you are revamping the boat, would another layer of FG hurt as it would strengthen the inside bottom and the extra weight won't hurt with the power you have. The boats we get now are very thin and flex way to much and won't last very long. I found this out in No Step models.

[lenny]

Eeeasyyyyy.....

Talk about letting the cat out of the bag. :rofl:

[srislash]

Eeeasyyyyy.....
Sorry :hug1:

[srislash]

Since you are revamping the boat, would another layer of FG hurt as it would strengthen the inside bottom and the extra weight won't hurt with the power you have. The boats we get now are very thin and flex way to much and won't last very long. I found this out in No Step models.

You must've missed the CF inlay page. And I am not worried about gel coat in spots as it will be painted over.

[srislash]

Nice job bro, mesa' like. Have you seen the new Rustoleum glo in the dark paint yet ?. I was watching reviews of it last night. It would be useless on a boat, cause we only run in the daylight, but it would be kool as a top coat :).......

I have been wanting to do an 'evening runner' for some time now since our days are short in the winters up here. GF just told me of some Xmas lights that are on a string the size of thread. We have carol ships up here that would be cool to run around. LOL.
I will check the glow paint though.

[tiqueman]

Sorry :hug1:

At least I can't say it was my fault. What a nightmare that was....

[Southwest]

Yes, I went right on by or over the top of my head. The inlay looks great.

[Cooper]

Looking good !!! If I get around to another mono I'm pretty sure I'd go with flood tube also. I've been out for a bit but back now and your build is looking good!! Hope the new workshop is helping too:)

[srislash]

Looking good !!! If I get around to another mono I'm pretty sure I'd go with flood tube also. I've been out for a bit but back now and your build is looking good!! Hope the new workshop is helping too:)

Hey, RW! Good to read ya buddy. Hope you are well. Nice having the workspace for sure. Thanks for checking in.

The boat is base white ATM guys, got a real busy stretch goin' on at work right now but hope to at least get pearl on quickly and play with paint colors/graphic. Been awhile since the airbrush has seen active duty so probably nothing fancy.

[Fella1340]

Sorry to be a little late with this question, missed it the first time through. You squared up the trailing
Edge of the hull to the transom. What's the main benefit of doing so and what epoxy/resin did you use to fill the taped area. I have seen where a hull hooks and act similar to a trim tab but I am very interested as to the benefit here. I really liked the carbon stringers you made to support the deck. Do they meet in the center of the top deck and angle out to its where they will rest? I wasn't sure if
They were just sitting in there temporarily or not. That looked to be a whole pile of work in itself! I am really enjoying the details! Don't be afraid to dumb it down a bit for use newer guys:) I have more questions but I will stop for now! Thanks

[srislash]

Well first with the epoxy/tape: I just used my System Three epoxy. The idea is that a good sharp trailing edge provides a clean break for the water instead of any kind of round edge which the water can roll up and cling to forming a bit of a suction effect. I went with just a straight ride surface here with the tape on the bottom and filling the transom side.
And yes the stringers meet in the centre and splay out for even structural integrity of the hull. It was a bit of work but is this baby solid now. I have subbed my DF35" pretty deep and it crushed the deck in.that is another reason I have gone with this.

[Fella1340]

Thanks for the clarification on the sharp trailing edge. I actually learned something
Today! I really like what you did with the top deck support, don't be surprised if you
See it in a build coming up soon! Looking forward to the finish on this, will you be able
To leave the motor mounted when you adjust the trim up/down? I had thoughts of doing
Something similar but having a t-bar on the flexhaft between the motor and the flooded tube so motor alignment didn't become an issue with every adjustment. Could be I have missed something or is Alignment something you just have to keep an on? I am on a steep learning curve here and I really appreciate any help you can give. Its a fine line between sucess and failure and I want to succeed! Thanks jeff

[srislash]

You know I tried and tried to find a decent pivot point of the rear motor mount pins. That way just loosen the fronts and set the angle but I ended up slotting the rear as well as the front to accommodate. Should be easy enough to adjust mind you.

[Fella1340]

Fair enough, I had seen a couple setups that were on old builds but I diidnt get a good idea
of how the adjustments were made without changing the alignment and being old threads I couldn't ask any questions. Slotting the front and rear makes sense, doing it off a rear pivot may have been a fight the whole way. Its the little things like squaring hull to transom edge that combined with the other things you have done that can have a big effect on how well a boat does or does not do. I have been through this forum from top to bottom and its not often things like that are mentioned. Thanks for taking the time with my questions. Any other ideas you have or things that need to be looked at when completing the outside of the boat (mono hulls)you can share would be most appreciated. I look forward to.seeing the rest of the build!

[srislash]

Just making sure the strakes are straight,square,sharp,and true.
Making the hull good and stiff will help it live longer in case of mishaps. My DF had a bad bounce when I got it and it actually would bend from tail to tip. Seems unreal, but how else do you explain a cracked hatch that is bolted in four corners.

My offsetting the motor to compensate for torque is an old trick from the Nicd/ABS hull days.
Thanks for pickin the brain, there isn't enough questions asked on here IMO.

[gsbuickman]

Straight, square, sharp & true ?. I always thought they were suppose to resemble pretzels ......, :tt2:

[srislash]

Straight, square, sharp & true ?. I always thought they were suppose to resemble pretzels ......, :tt2:

Maybe if you are running those Eco courses. But for straight line it is best everything is straight or bad things happen.
Like at the end of this one http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uIyfv3yuuqs

[Fella1340]

I like the sound of not enough question's asked. Though quite often the threads are full of chit.chat and it would seem rude dropping a relevant fe question in as its probably only relevant to me! I taking your answer about not enough question's being asked as permission to ask away! Thanks

[srislash]

I like the sound of not enough question's asked. Though quite often the threads are full of chit.chat and it would seem rude dropping a relevant fe question in as its probably only relevant to me! I taking your answer about not enough question's being asked as permission to ask away! Thanks

Yes ask away and I will answer with the best of my knowledge or possibly someone else will chime in.

Oh,and we have pearl white boat

108046

[srislash]

So what do you guys think on these colors??

108047108048

[lenny]

Yep,
Nice clean canvas to start with. :thumbup1:
Any ideas on the hatch locks yet ?
I still have not done mine yet.

[stelerzman]

I finally finished reading the entire thread, :flammes-09: Nice job all the way around, I'm posting my vote for color choice, the left pic, the one with yellow in it. Can't wait to see more progress. Keep it up. :popcorn2:

[srislash]

I finally finished reading the entire thread, :flammes-09: Nice job all the way around, I'm posting my vote for color choice, the left pic, the one with yellow in it. Can't wait to see more progress. Keep it up. :popcorn2:
I lean that way too. Thanks for the compliments.

Now for progress

108295108296

Still a bit more to do, but I am proud of it. Wish I had a couple 4" OSE decals. The 5's are just a tad big for the side.
Some pinstripe to go as well I think. :confused1:

[Rocstar]

:thumbup1: Looking good Shawn! Think you will get her wet before the water freezes?

[srislash]

:thumbup1: Looking good Shawn! Think you will get her wet before the water freezes?

Well freezing at night here right now but only just. Doesn't usually last here too long. Should see water soon. Just waiting for that part from Randy for reassembly. Got to figure out decals then clear. Could happen tomorrow.

[lenny]

Coming out very nice,:popcorn2:
I like that water effects on the deck.
May be just add a dark pinstripe on the scoop like on the deck.
To break it up some and let it flow back.

[srislash]

Coming out very nice,:popcorn2:
I like that water effects on the deck.
May be just add a dark pinstripe on the scoop like on the deck.
To break it up some and let it flow back.
You got it man :thumbup1:
I am thinking black pinstripe down each side of green Len and a little dark fade in the scoop.

[stelerzman]

I lean that way too. Thanks for the compliments.

Now for progress

108295108296

Still a bit more to do, but I am proud of it. Wish I had a couple 4" OSE decals. The 5's are just a tad big for the side.
Some pinstripe to go as well I think. :confused1:


Great job., looks fantastic.

[lenny]

Ok I did not realize that center pinstripe was black,
I thought it was the brownish color you posted in the test stripes.:blink:
On my scoop in the intake I tried a piece of black tap on it for now,
And think I like it.
It just adds a little more scale detail to the looks of it,
Try it you may like.

[stelerzman]

How did you pull off the teal colored water effects on the deck? Also, what kind of tape is on the bench, the green masking tape?

Thanks for the answer. :buttrock:

[Heaving Earth]

nice work shawn.

i get a miami beach vibe.

to have a real one, you would need to sport a fat mustache, and two blondes with big knockers accompany. swingerstyle in silk bathrobe and sunglasses

[srislash]

nice work shawn.

i get a miami beach vibe.

to have a real one, you would need to sport a fat mustache, and two blondes with big knockers accompany. swingerstyle in silk bathrobe and sunglasses
Haha, got one healthy blonde here but just shaved the Mo-vember moustache and the rest I don't leave the house in.

[srislash]

How did you pull off the teal colored water effects on the deck? Also, what kind of tape is on the bench, the green masking tape?

Thanks for the answer. :buttrock:

So back in the dating phases of the aforementioned blonde, I bought her some flowers that came with this decorative wrap. Simply lay it on and spray over. At the time(and actually till I peeled it off) I thought it would give an electric effect. The turnout here is to my liking.
The tape is painters tape. Pricier kind is blue,they are good to leave on in case I am distracted by pesky work and have to leave the painting for a while.

[stelerzman]

So did you glue the decorative wrap on and clear over it?

[srislash]

So did you glue the decorative wrap on and clear over it?

Just taped it on. Just got to watch the air on the airbrush.

I can thank our bud 'Tiq' for opening the bag of tricks for me some time back.

[stelerzman]

Nice trick paint job. I'll have to try it some time.

[srislash]

Nice trick paint job. I'll have to try it some time.

You can do it with anything. Stretched metal, the wife's doilies, tablecloth. Though I have not done the latter two I do know someone who has.:wink:

[tiqueman]

Lookin good Shawn

[srislash]

Lookin good Shawn

Thanks Scott

So I think I am going to stop at this here:

108339108340108341108342

I put the FighterCat on as this was the last hull that Ben sold me.

[flraptor07]

Nice build!! The Ren and Stimpy in the windshield kills me...:lol: Love it!!

[stelerzman]

Any updates????

[srislash]

Any updates????

Silly busy at work guys. Still waiting on that rubber boot from Randy. Should be able to get some clear on her tomorrow evening.

[srislash]

Update, Got her cleared. Did the inside too as it will help insulate the highly conductive CF. I also installed my hatch hold downs. Went bolt style with blind nuts. These are them

108608

I drilled small holes for more bonding area on the blind nuts as they need to be epoxied in

108612

I held the epoxied nuts in place with tape and foam backing. Then I screwed the thumb screws into the nuts to seat them while epoxy cures. Important tip here when epoxy ing nuts in, make sure you oil the threads of the bolt before threading bolt in. This will keep the epoxy from sticking to the threads. You can actually make threads in this way.

This is the installed look

108613

[rickwess]

Looking good Shawn. Those flat spots on the hatch were screaming for the style of hold down. Where did you get them?

[srislash]

I got the bolts from Reid Supply. Ordered a bunch a while back. Even got a few that match the Aeromarine locks. McMaster has em too but being Canadian they won't ship.

[Rocstar]

:cool2: Good looking boat Shawn. The thumb screws definitely let you get the hatch open quickly.

[srislash]

:cool2: Good looking boat Shawn. The thumb screws definitely let you get the hatch open quickly.

Thanks Joel. Got the weekend off so should get her back together before snow Monday.:ThumbsDown01:
Provided that part from Randy comes today that is.

[Rocstar]

Thanks Joel. Got the weekend off so should get her back together before snow Monday.:ThumbsDown01:
Provided that part from Randy comes today that is.
We have a dusting of snow here. The river and pond are frozen over now...:sad:

[srislash]

Haha, yeah I have a strange feeling I will be having a few snow days here. I am not making the commute if it snows. I WILL seek shelter inside my cozy new boat room ;-)

[lenny]

Yep they look right at home on the boat, :thumbup:
I had put rubber caps on the bolt heads to give a little more grip.
And also to blend in with the boat with the right colored caps.
Did you mod the hatch tab or the slot in the hull any for strength there ?

[srislash]

Yep they look right at home on the boat, :thumbup:
I had put rubber caps on the bolt heads to give a little more grip.
And also to blend in with the boat with the right colored caps.
Did you mod the hatch tab or the slot in the hull any for strength there ?

I turfed the venter tab and I think the corners will be fine on this hull Lenny. Are they pretty thin on yours?

[lenny]

No the corner are very good on my two hull,
It's just the used one that was beat up before I got it.
At the hatch tab hole and deck above it and also the bottom of the hull,
I think they used it as landing craft a few time to. :glare:

108617108618108619108620

[gsbuickman]

Damn Shawn, you out done yourself on this one. That thing is Smokin'...... Kinda funny, it reminds me of the original ad for the parma ski tiger that was dug up for me awhile back. I really like it. I wish I could find a scarab to build similar to this.......

[stelerzman]

We pray it doesn't smoke, great build. I hope I'll be able to build something as good. :bounce:

[srislash]

No the corner are very good on my two hull,
It's just the used one that was beat up before I got it.
At the hatch tab hole and deck above it and also the bottom of the hull,
I think they used it as landing craft a few time to. :glare:

108617108618108619108620
That is definitely showing some stress from rollovers or something. My deck bracing should ensure that never happens.
Should I PDF the templates Len?
And gosh darn guys, thanks.
Well no magic parcel today so that flood tube is rather crucial to reassembly. May have to scoure a couple LHS' tomorrow. Wish me luck.

[stelerzman]

Why not make it your self? It's not difficult, I made mine out of 1/2" pvc pipe and will allow 3/8" or so of stuffing tube adjustment.

[srislash]

Why not make it your self? It's not difficult, I made mine out of 1/2" pvc pipe and will allow 3/8" or so of stuffing tube adjustment.

I have a CF tube here just trying to seal the end and flex tube. Randy had a large size rubber linkage boot that has been sent to me.

[stelerzman]

Oh, I must have missing this piece of info. :doh:

[srislash]

Haha, I think you tuned in just after that kaffufl.

[srislash]

A bit O' progress today. Got servo in, rod bent to fit and in with rubber boot, my turn fin on,trim tabs on:

108687108688

Also got a hatch seal on using the door seal in the top of second pic. This stuff is nice and soft and I have found it seals very well.

Also got the rubber boot to use as a flood tube seal:

108689

So I need to flip the boot inside out so it is inside the CF tube due to room constraints. I need all the tube I can get so I can get an oiler on there. Still thinking about whether or not the flex tube needs a support. It can be done but would be one more thing to adjust. I only have 2 1/2" of flex and the tube is now pretty much part of the strut.

[srislash]

I tried to install E-clips on the hatch screws yesterday to no avail. So I awoke this morning with a new plan, enlarge the recesses I made on the screws and use some old shock o-rings

108705108706

As you can see it seems to work :banana:
I had hit the Rx with Performix last night so that is ready to go now

108707

And this morning I set the flood tube. To do this mounting the motor was necessary, boy, that takes patience. What have I done:olleyes:
Hopefully some more done on her this afternoon after the tube is cured.

[Rocstar]

Also got the rubber boot to use as a flood tube seal:

Shawn, are you going to seal where the brass tube enters the flood tube with epoxy?

[srislash]

Shawn, are you going to seal where the brass tube enters the flood tube with epoxy?

Joel, this boot WILL ACTUALLY fit protruding toward the collet now. It may work as the seal on the brass as well as hang over sealing the flex. Or so goes my current plan

[lenny]

I was just using the o rings or a small pieces of water tubing,
On the outside with the nuts or bolts to hold the hatch on and help seal it.
I just do not crank down on them to tight,
Also had some bell washers with rubber on one side that worked pretty good to.

108709108710108711

[runzwithsizorz]

Ah, makes sense. I was taking the term too literal. Obviously not possible with a stinger set-up.

This is OSE, where everything is possible, though not always obvious. :spy:

108717

[runzwithsizorz]

I have a CF tube here just trying to seal the end and flex tube. Randy had a large size rubber linkage boot that has been sent to me.

Works for me. Fit rather snug on the 1/2" copper pipe, but added a hose clamp to be sure. The wide white 1/4" plastic hose clamp came from here, or Kintech. IMO, much better than the wire clamps in this instance

108718

[srislash]

Works for me. Fit rather snug on the 1/2" copper pipe, but added a hose clamp to be sure. The wide white 1/4" plastic hose clamp came from here, or Kintech. IMO, much better than the wire clamps in this instance

108718
I wish I had that much room. But not with this configuration. I had thought of going out on a limb and doing the stinger adjustable but this is my first flood tube and no point in pushing my envelope too far. Hehe

[srislash]

Just thought I'd show my how I do my 2P plugs before solder

108786

So got them soldered and onto ESC but my liquid tape has gone hard so I am at a standstill. Performix'd the ESC, mounted antenna, and ran some cooling line. Getting close but we are expecting -9 Celsius this week so may lose open water for a bit.

[rickwess]

Just thought I'd show my how I do my 2P plugs before solder
Hey Shawn. I was going down the same path for my 4s2p build. I had my plugs built and plasti-coated, then came across this pic in a thread........credit to Doug S. It's much cleaner and no worries about extra connectors.

108873

[stelerzman]

Unless you want to go with a different battery configuration down the road, if this were the case you'd have pull the esc and unsolder, then resolder it all up. I like have the bullets there, one could always solder up an adapter to plug into the esc. JMO.

[rickwess]

Unless you want to go with a different battery configuration down the road, if this were the case you'd have pull the esc and unsolder, then resolder it all up. I like have the bullets there, one could always solder up an adapter to plug into the esc. JMO.
The boat is built for 4s2p so I can't see the battery config changing. Either way works. Like I said, I was well on my way to do the same, until I saw the pic and concluded it was a better approach for me.

[stelerzman]

To each his own, as long as your happy with the end results. :rockon2:

[stelerzman]

I wish I had that much room. But not with this configuration. I had thought of going out on a limb and doing the stinger adjustable but this is my first flood tube and no point in pushing my envelope too far. Hehe

I just had a thought for you, how about a 3/4" pvc cap or plug. Drill out the cap or plug for the stuffing tube inline with the coupler, then epoxy it in place on the inside of the cap. This will insure the stuffing tube stays in alignment with the coupler.
Next would be to get the next size tubing, smaller or larger, and slide the two tubes together. This will give the flexibility your looking for at the strut. This what I did and it seams to work rather well. Have yet to any water in the hull from the flood/stuffing tube set up.

[srislash]

Hey Shawn. I was going down the same path for my 4s2p build. I had my plugs built and plasti-coated, then came across this pic in a thread........credit to Doug S. It's much cleaner and no worries about extra connectors.

108873
I also saw that and it is a good setup. But,,,something that is not said much here is that in electronics wire/connectors are bad. Necessary but points of loss and resistance causing voltage ripples. So I try to cut down on it. I have one inch of wire out of ESC to my plug and 4" to the motor.
I will post a pic tonight.

[lenny]

I also saw that and it is a good setup. But,,,something that is not said much here is that in electronics wire/connectors are bad. Necessary but points of loss and resistance causing voltage ripples. So I try to cut down on it. I have one inch of wire out of ESC to my plug and 4" to the motor.
I will post a pic tonight.

:iagree:

Also on my parallel 5.5 plugs I was just using shrink wrap over them,
But I may try the liquid tape sometime to. :tiphat:

108876108877108878108879108880

[srislash]

Shawn, are you going to seal where the brass tube enters the flood tube with epoxy?

So Joel, here is what I got

108906

The tube is 1/4 (if) back from collet there. If I leave it like that(picture) it will seal the flex but will it stay? Should right?
I could get the boot back on the tube and squeeze a piece of tube on to the brass to seal the flex. Whatcha think?

[srislash]

The boat is built for 4s2p so I can't see the battery config changing. Either way works. Like I said, I was well on my way to do the same, until I saw the pic and concluded it was a better approach for me.

Or 5s2p, or 6s2p. Here is a pic of what I am talking about

108907

This pic is with the batteries all the way forward.
And yes Lenny that is 6s in there

[rickwess]

Or 5s2p, or 6s2p. Here is a pic of what I am talking about


This pic is with the batteries all the way forward.
I understand. Are you planning on running an external cap bank? I'm curious where you're going to mount the ESC.

[rickwess]

:iagree:

Also on my parallel 5.5 plugs I was just using shrink wrap over them,
But I may try the liquid tape sometime to. :tiphat:
That actually illustrates what I was trying to say. You could eliminate one of your friction connections and be no worse off in terms of wire length.

[srislash]

The ESC is getting mounted right where you see it. Was half thinking of tossing a couple of caps on but I have never had a cap issue yet on 4s.
Caps take care of voltage ripple which is created from long wires. If kept under 8" from battery to ESC one should be good

[lenny]

So Joel, here is what I got

108906

The tube is 1/4 (if) back from collet there. If I leave it like that(picture) it will seal the flex but will it stay? Should right?
I could get the boot back on the tube and squeeze a piece of tube on to the brass to seal the flex. Whatcha think?

I would let the small piece of tube do the sealing on the flex and stuffing tube,
Than just replace the piece as needed down the line.

[Rocstar]

So Joel, here is what I got
The tube is 1/4 (if) back from collet there. If I leave it like that(picture) it will seal the flex but will it stay? Should right?
I could get the boot back on the tube and squeeze a piece of tube on to the brass to seal the flex. Whatcha think?
Looks like it will work. Only one way to find out. :thumbup1:

[srislash]

Maiden today. :banana::banana: I hope anyway. Got a couple small jobs to do, but Ren&Stimpy are ready to go. Pretty sure I won't have any heat issues as it is -5 here now . Should warm up to 0 Celsius by afternoon run.

[Fella1340]

Looks like you will have a good seal there. When I first read that a boot was going to be used I
Had my doubts but not only does it look like it will do the job it looks good in there doing it! Sounds like you have the same wether that I have here, cold. Only another 5+months to go! I envy our southern members a lot at the moment! Alreqdy had to snow blow 5 inches of heavy wet stuff. Plough is now on the 4 Wheeler, boating is done. Time to hole up inside and build some boats!

[lenny]

So did you run it yet ? :popcorn2:
Hope you did not hit any icebergs out there. :Sinking:

[srislash]

So did you run it yet ? :popcorn2:
Hope you did not hit any icebergs out there. :Sinking:

No, one of those little jobs turned into a day and half project.
Not to mention the windy arctic front that came in. Nice and sunny but brrr. Gonna try tomorrow .

[lenny]

Well look at the bright side,
You made some money I guess. :beerchug:

I did not go boating ether,
But I did get the fire wood all cut up for the wood stove,
I should be running tomorrow after noon to test some cells out.

[srislash]

You get some new ones Len? Cells that is

[rickwess]

At least you still have liquid water. My first build should have been an ice breaker.

[lenny]

Just some 2s cell that have been setting around for two years and cycled,
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041113
We well see how the work out. :bounce:

[stelerzman]

Looks like you will have a good seal there. When I first read that a boot was going to be used I
Had my doubts but not only does it look like it will do the job it looks good in there doing it! Sounds like you have the same wether that I have here, cold. Only another 5+months to go! I envy our southern members a lot at the moment! Alreqdy had to snow blow 5 inches of heavy wet stuff. Plough is now on the 4 Wheeler, boating is done. Time to hole up inside and build some boats!

Bright and sunny down in south Florida, a blistering 84° today, just incase you were wondering. I do have to say Canada is a beautiful country, no matter the season. :thumbup1:

[srislash]

At least you still have liquid water. My first build should have been an ice breaker.

Back in Nicd days we would send the PT 109 out first to clear the water LOL.

[srislash]

Just some 2s cell that have been setting around for two years and cycled,
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041113
We well see how the work out. :bounce:

They should be ok Len. He says he kept em cycled

[stelerzman]

So Joel, here is what I got

108906

The tube is 1/4 (if) back from collet there. If I leave it like that(picture) it will seal the flex but will it stay? Should right?
I could get the boot back on the tube and squeeze a piece of tube on to the brass to seal the flex. Whatcha think?

I'm curious, how are you going to stabilize the stuffing tube, it looks as if it would move around when you go to adjust the strut. Which will throw of the alignment to the motor. :confused1:

[srislash]

I'm curious, how are you going to stabilize the stuffing tube, it looks as if it would move around when you go to adjust the strut. Which will throw of the alignment to the motor. :confused1:

Well, I put it in the strut with Loctite 638 and it is only about 2" long. IF it gives me grief I have an idea to stabilize it. Do bare in mind the flex is only 2 1/2" .

[stelerzman]

Can you post a pic of the back of the boat? I'm tring to visualize it. Thanks.

[rickwess]

Well, I put it in the strut with Loctite 638 and it is only about 2" long. IF it gives me grief I have an idea to stabilize it. Do bare in mind the flex is only 2 1/2" .
When the flex is so short, how much gap do you need to leave between the drive dog and strut? I'll have a similar flex length and have been pondering how much such a short length of flex with contract under load.

[srislash]

109120

Pic like this ?

[srislash]

When the flex is so short, how much gap do you need to leave between the drive dog and strut? I'll have a similar flex length and have been pondering how much such a short length of flex with contract under load.

I am pondering the same thing Rick. I think I have about .150 there now. It really shouldn't have much wind up. My DF has about 16" of cable and I think JUST uses the 3/16(.187) that I leave there. Based on the nylon washer wear.

[rickwess]

I am pondering the same thing Rick. I think I have about .150 there now. It really shouldn't have much wind up. My DF has about 16" of cable and I think JUST uses the 3/16(.187) that I leave there. Based on the nylon washer wear.
I'm sure the wind up is proportional to the length of the flex. That would mean less than 3/128" gap would be needed.......not much at all.

[srislash]

Alright, looky who saw water today

109141

Vid to come, she was rough and windy but the boat handled it like a champ. DID I MENTION COLD???

109142

Yes, that be ice built up.

[stelerzman]

I saw water,,, , falling from the sky. Not to happy but oh well.
She looks killer in the water. Can't wait to see the video.:rockon2:

[srislash]

Well this should be her


http://youtu.be/yc6Vu_ViE_c

Sorry if quality is off, that is my first upload from the iPhone

[srislash]

And for those with similar size hulls, the RTR weight is 7lbs with 2 - 4s 4000 mah packs

[properchopper]

Shawn,

Looks great and sounds really smooth. Too bad the pond's kicked up. C'mon down to SoCal where it's (almost) glass :scared:: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkiTfVT1LaE

[srislash]

Shawn,

Looks great and sounds really smooth. Too bad the pond's kicked up. C'mon down to SoCal where it's (almost) glass :scared:: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkiTfVT1LaE

Right on Tony. Just not confident enough on the maiden to go all out in the chop. Far too cold for swimming. Was really tempted to squeeze into that package that I sent to Cali today, but the shipping :doh:

[lenny]

:roflol:
Shawn what is that four blade prop ? :tongue_smilie:

And I was thinking about trying the new x455/3 today. :bounce:
Water was very choppy and the wind was doing about 20mph and temp was low 40f today,
The 2s cells work ok for the first time out with them.
Ran them in the Rio mod but it was getting blown around pretty good.

[Rocstar]

Nice build Shawn. Can't wait to see what she can do on flat water. :thumbup1:

[srislash]

Nice build Shawn. Can't wait to see what she can do on flat water. :thumbup1:

Yeah, as always just real happy to bring everything back home safe and sound. Tomorrow may be smoother and I'll try again.

Lenny, that four blade is a 4019 and is one of the pair. Gonna try them on my Miss G twin for a comparison. I also have a pair of 4019/2 bladders for it as well. Just want to see the difference in how she runs.

[stelerzman]

[QUOTE=srislash;540904]109120

[stelerzman]

109120

Pic like this ?
Yes, thank you. Umm, are the trim tab adjuster brackets on up side down? Shouldn't the top part have some space to adjust up and down? Now I can see how the strut is set. Looking good. Is it possible to flare the coupling end of the stuffing tube? This should allow a smooth transition from the strut to the coupler. Just and idea.
Good lookin' video, she looks good, congrats on a successful maiden voyage.:thumbup1: I'm sure she handle great when the chop calmes down.

[properchopper]

Yes, thank you. Umm, are the trim tab adjuster brackets on up side down? Shouldn't the top part have some space to adjust up and down? Now I can see how the strut is set. Looking good. Is it possible to flare the coupling end of the stuffing tube? This should allow a smooth transition from the strut to the coupler. Just and idea.
Good lookin' video, she looks good, congrats on a successful maiden voyage.:thumbup1: I'm sure she handle great when the chop calmes down.

[Shawn - I'm up early so I'll answer this :wink:] - Look at the lack of clearance between the starboard tab and rudder bracket. It's sometimes necessary to invert the bracket for clearance (notice how the rudder bracket is relieved for the adjustment screw). By mocking up the transom hardware before drilling/mounting this can be anticipated and compensated for by elevating the rudder foot location 'tho this can get tricky when the top bolts don't find secure internal footing. As long as the tabs can be set neutral they rarely need to be raised up over the bottom plane - they mostly go down to perform do their intended duty.

[stelerzman]

I understand, :Peace_Sign:

The only reason I ask is because OSE shows similar items assembled the other way.
109161 :confused2:

[srislash]

[Shawn - I'm up early so I'll answer this :wink:] - Look at the lack of clearance between the starboard tab and rudder bracket. It's sometimes necessary to invert the bracket for clearance (notice how the rudder bracket is relieved for the adjustment screw). By mocking up the transom hardware before drilling/mounting this can be anticipated and compensated for by elevating the rudder foot location 'tho this can get tricky when the top bolts don't find secure internal footing. As long as the tabs can be set neutral they rarely need to be raised up over the bottom plane - they mostly go down to perform do their intended duty.

Thanks Tony, yes things got a bit tight keeping the rudder steering rod geometry and keeping the prop in clean water. This was the best layout I could come up with. I also shortened the bolts quite a lot on those tabs.

[lenny]

:bounce:
You showed yours first, :moon:
Hear mine the way it came to me just about.
I like to be able to push them up out of the way sometimes,
To see what is going on with the ride of the boat with out them in the setup.

109176109177

[stelerzman]

:bounce:
You showed yours first, :moon:
Hear mine the way it came to me just about.
I like to be able to push them up out of the way sometimes,
To see what is going on with the ride of the boat with out them in the setup.

109176109177

:banana: that's what I was thinking.:thumbup1:

[srislash]

I suppose I could turn them over but I don't think they are active as is.

[srislash]

Well I got out today but no camera person so I had to go the stationary route. A bit of bounce but not bad I'll change to a X4 series next time out as it is possible that a X642 has too much lift causing the bounce


http://youtu.be/KbkcZuQ35J0

[rickwess]

The water looks cold! From what we can see, Ren and Stimpy are doing a great job of keeping her right side up.

[lenny]

Where is you strut set at from the bottom of the boat ?
It is hard to tell from the video, But sounds and looks like it is running wet to me.
Also is that on 4s and Any idea of speeds yet ?

[stelerzman]

109120

Pic like this ?

Looks like the strut is as low as it can go. My suggestion, start playing around with a little weight in the front and/or trim tabs down a bit. This is what settled my boat out.
Just my .02 cents.

She's looking really good. Great job.:banana:

[properchopper]

Shawn,

Before you go to any lengths to tune the running attitude of the boat, ditch the 642 - it's a lifter prop for smaller hydros and lighter cats. With a 2200KV 4S setup you'll be able, given you keep the setup loose, run up to a m447. With the same powerplant my JC30 ran a cut down & hub cut 447/3 and rocked. Also, since you went to the pains of fabbing a flood tube, raise the strut when you go bigger on the prop. Keep your tabs level at first. If you're running on smooth water like in the vid, keep it loose. For choppy water move your CG forward @ 3/4 to 1 "

Here's Mike [TheShaunessy]'s Pursuit [the Bling Rocket & Pursuit are both splashes of the Cyberstorm 32] running a 4074 2200KV on 4S with either a cut down 646/3 or cut down 447 - can't remember which and set up loosey-goosey (not for P-Mono racewater). It rolls, and is an example of what your rig is capable of onced dialed in:thumbup1:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13J0fcfOzr0