Newbie to boats: Delta Force Deep V Clone

[daign]

So I have a lot of experience with multicopters, planes and cars. But have never been into boats until I met a bunch of great guys up at the local pond here in LA. I got hooked after driving my 1234 Dumas Chris Craft Barrel Back around a bit, but a bit freaked out when she rolled without any floatation. No damage and she kept the water out somewhat well, but I realized it was time for a real hull to start with.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rQozx0Z5GbA/UgHBfxicCzI/AAAAAAAAeko/NXhxwgWXChc/s800/DSC03102.JPG
Some Pix of my work:
Cars, crawlers, scalers:
https://plus.google.com/photos/102046385214554961345/albums/5639321381797573281

Multirotors, quads hexas etc.
https://plus.google.com/photos/102046385214554961345/albums/5639321690172251057?authkey=CNH3peTqqKvuGQ

So had my heart set on a Delta Force Mono Deep V after seeing one run at the lake. Amazing on 4s.

I was browsing the classifieds and came across this DF Clone that was labeled a Arowana but clearly isn't. I'd hate to buy a Delta Force Hull and muck it up by drilling all over etc, So why not learn the basics from a clone.

Specs on the boat from the manufacturer 'TOBSD.com.'

Hull Material: high-quality 4-layer Fiber Glass/Epoxy Resin

l 3Kg Strong servo

l Water tight seal
l Product Size(LxWxH)：845×240×130mm
l Motor: 540size BL3665 Brushless Water Cooled
l Pre-installed P1.4 X D38 mm metal Propeller
l Boat Show Stand
l Shaft Drive System: 4 mm Flex Cable Drive
l Turn Fins: double Turn Fins, Aluminium Alloy
l Aluminium Rudder with water intake
l ESC: 120A Brushless water Cooled


Note that they dont mention KV. Wonderful! In the manual they state its a 2900kv with a 40mm prop?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i72_wspvzcM/Uj9xonL9vFI/AAAAAAAAg88/zdr820EAleo/s800/DSC03222.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cj0YrVgzxbY/Uj9xlk9ewbI/AAAAAAAAg80/OpIm_v9D-yA/s800/DSC03221.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-68cQQYH9Ztc/Uj9xswYoaPI/AAAAAAAAg9M/l-XDPi23ZsI/s800/DSC03224.JPG
So far on my list:

Heres a picture of the broken servo mount on the left, I'd like to replace it with a nice clean CNC one and a Proper servo, but some 3m trim tape and a ziptie will work if needed.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EqaJvaDfy88/Uj9x57Sn4vI/AAAAAAAAg-A/DblNTLA7BYM/s800/DSC03233.JPG
1. It was brought to my attention that I need to lose the Spektrum car receiver and telemetry asap and run a marine unit because of Car receivers going nuts on people in boats so I plan to do that. Wish i could keep the temp. telemetry and voltage on my Spektrum DXS3s though.

2. Yank the motor enough to check kv in person. It does resemble the BL3665 Turnigy motors and they do have a 2400. It needs to be verified though.

3. Yank the crappy "waterproof'd ESC (with white silicone) and replace it with a Turnigy 180a.

4. Batteries, all my 4s batteries are 40c or less.

5.Verify the prop. what is the proper way to measure a prop?


Is this sized boat limited to 40-45mph as stated by others or do I have room for growth? Such as moving up to 6s and dropping the kv of the motor to keep temps down.... The Motor mount has ZERO adjustment so I'd have to Remove the old one and replace it.

At that point it may be worth moving onto another hull and building my own anyway as I see it. When I'm comfortable of course. For now I just want to make the boat my own, yank some of the Delta Force decals that do not fit the hull, add my own decals (I have a decal printer) and do my own livery for her.

Thanks for the help all, I look forward to learning more about boats and the 'wet' side of the hobby. The last time I got wet RC'ing I lost a $1400 Hexacopter. I swam like a merman trying to get that thing before it went down! ;)

Cheers,
D

[daign]

some more pics.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JPi-d0SpWNE/Uj9xux03vxI/AAAAAAAAg9U/iR3OSBHYuPs/s800/DSC03225.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rhALAJsLQvo/Uj9xyqDIxcI/AAAAAAAAg9k/kft84YNkU0o/s800/DSC03227.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-86SgzjxQbaU/Uj9x1awjw-I/AAAAAAAAg9w/nRP95Gk65qI/s800/DSC03229.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lltS6IkG2-g/Uj9x3tYNnMI/AAAAAAAAg94/tRgS9yncbA8/s800/DSC03231.JPG

[daign]

So I took her out with some 4s batteries and she did fantastic. Minimal tuning was necessary, and as usual I as unhappy with performance.

So I ordered a Leopard 4074 2200kv to replace the 3665 mystery motor (I'm guessing just under 2200k).

I've got the 5mm to 4mm coupler on the motor and a 2 piece 4mm China special flex shaft that is too long to get the motor to the mount by about 10-12mm. Is it normal to trim the flex shaft? I was told the 4mm would not hold up to the new motor and to go with a .187 flex? I'd prefer to do it right the first time. I will have to look up how to completely remove this two piece flex shaft unless someone can tell me how. I've got the prop yanked off and the flex shaft slides forward and hits something and backwards.

Pictures of my boat are at the bottom here:
https://plus.google.com/photos/102046385214554961345/albums/5909216900092058033?authkey=CJr05vbloI3ZIw

And the shredded 4mm flex shaft here:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3VaL4zXjLwI/UlG_vVFj4dI/AAAAAAAAhSA/q3aV5MLPCOk/w1662-h935-no/20131006_125207.jpg

Thanks for the help guys.

[grsboats]

3/16"is the right size to avoid new failures with flexshafts if you inttend to use a 4074 motor. Gill

[grsboats]

I also can't figured out how this coupler is made from your pics.Are threre screws holding the cable or is it a collet?Gill

[tlandauer]

I think the "bell shaped" thing is fixed between the two plates. At the other end it is supporting the stuffing tube. The coupler is smaller and it goes into the "bell shaped" thing. A lot like some of the MHZ smaller boats. http://mhzusa.com/Flash-Assembled-with-Decal-Set-m-1702-HD.htm

[daign]

I also can't figured out how this coupler is made from your pics.Are threre screws holding the cable or is it a collet?Gill

The collet is actually not picture it was on the motor at the top. One side is 5mm for motor, the other is 4mm and slides onto the flex cable. Tighten set screws all 4 and it sits in the metal tube...

I can't even figure out how to get the damn 2 piece collect apart so I'll just wait until some of my boat buddies can help me out.

Do I have to remove the prop, dog nut, teflon washer and all the hardware connecting to the transom to remove the back of the flex shaft and disconnect the front?

I've been browsing similar threads and they all seem different. When I pull on the flex cable either way something solid hits and stops me. I dont want to yank obviously.

[daign]

I think the "bell shaped" thing is fixed between the two plates. At the other end it is supporting the stuffing tube. The coupler is smaller and it goes into the "bell shaped" thing. A lot like some of the MHZ smaller boats. http://mhzusa.com/Flash-Assembled-with-Decal-Set-m-1702-HD.htm

you are correct. There are 2 set screws on top of it and it holds the stuffing tube in place.

Thanks for the help guys. If I could get the damn thing out I'd cut it with a dremel but I dont feel like doing so while its in the boat. Seems some guys are running 4mm flex cables no problem with 4074s on 4s.

-D

[lenny]

I think you need to remove the stinger first to get the inner flex shaft out,
It will be a little harder with the spun shaft end.
Try to clean up the end with dikes pliers or just cut it off with them.

That is why the two piece shaft is a PITA to grease on them.
The Zonda Cat has the PITA two piece flex shaft to,
That is why they need to be one piece for easy cleaning and greasing.