TP Power- New style

[Basstronics]

Earlier this summer I lost a Leopard motor and I decided to replace it with a TP Power.

In the past I have torn down a TP Power and a Leopard to look at manufacturing qualities. I noted back then that the TP Power had a much better build quality than the Leopard. However this review is about the new style motors and is much less favorable.

First impression out of the box is good. Motor looks solid, nice wire wrap over the heat shrink. Again these are magnet wire armature leads right off the coil- THESE ARE NOT WIRE!

For boating applications it is necessary to remove the stickers to install a good water jacket. I also like to coat it in Corrosion X. So upon removing the stickers the first thing I notice is one of three set screws is missing. I put my wrench into one of the sockets and just the pressure from inserting it the set screw fell right out. Same thing with the next hole. Matter of fact is ALL THREE HOLES ARE STRIPPED. The ONLY thing holding the endbell on was whatever glue they used...

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/RC%20Boats/newleopard3_zps51bd653b.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/basstronics/media/RC%20Boats/newleopard3_zps51bd653b.jpg.html)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/RC%20Boats/newleopard2_zps2337a956.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/basstronics/media/RC%20Boats/newleopard2_zps2337a956.jpg.html)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/RC%20Boats/newleopard1_zpsf340947f.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/basstronics/media/RC%20Boats/newleopard1_zpsf340947f.jpg.html)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/RC%20Boats/newleopard5_zpsc53641c1.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/basstronics/media/RC%20Boats/newleopard5_zpsc53641c1.jpg.html)

So I get it out, pull the rotor out. Previously they used a kevlar wrap over the rotors- now they use carbon. While I have not confirmed it the magnets seemed to be weaker than the previous TP Power I had apart (One day I will get a gauss on these things!).

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/RC%20Boats/newleopard6_zps77dd3e4b.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/basstronics/media/RC%20Boats/newleopard6_zps77dd3e4b.jpg.html)

Next I look at the laminated stack the wire wraps around. Previous TP design the stacks appeared to be ID ground for a tighter clearance. This motor IS NOT. the workmanship on this end seems to be on par with Leopard. I dont see anything that sticks out as extraordinary or bad here.

So now Im to the point where I will have to redrill & tap the endbell. Instead of using the set screws I intend to install socket head cap screws. After fixing this I will coat in Corrosion X. Reassemble then I might try to run it this year still!

[Basstronics]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?36454-TP-power-brushless-motor.&highlight=leopard+tp+power

Previous initial review of a Leopard Vs TP Power (old style now).

[Basstronics]

TP Power can coolers.

I got one and installed it on a brand new TP Power motor. Their design utilizes the small diameter O-rings so there is not a large cross section. This also means the thickness of the water allowed to contact the motor is very thin. Another thing worthy to think about is if the distance between can O.D. and cooler I.D. is very narrow there will probably be some water flow restriction.

The cooler fit on the loose side. Granted it was oiled to slide on but it just felt to loose and sloppy. After a good run and getting this hot she was still loose. I also had more water inside the hull then I like to have. I noticed the screws on the motor end bell rusted- the screw on the very bottom. This leads me to think the water jacket was leaking.

Needless to say Im NOT a fan of these water jackets and wont use these again unless the design changes.

[Peter A]

I recently got a TP Power 4050 7D (2200kv). The motor looks great, but the o rings supplied with the cooler were too small in section diameter and slipped straight off the can. I managed to get some bigger o rings that worked great. However this 2200kv motor does not seem as fast as the 2200kv Turigy Aquastar motor it replaced. More testing is needed but I am wondering if I shouldn't have just got another aquastar for about half the price!

[properchopper]

I recently got a TP 4083 2040 kv D-wind motor to test. The TP jacket was real short. I fitted a Leo 4082 68mm jacket and it fit nice and tight. Will test at the lake this week.

105320

[ezhitz]

I was thinking of trying a TP motor for P hydro now I wonder if this is what the quality of there other motors will be like.:confused2:

[twissted]

I bought the water jacket from tppowerusa and they fit my motors from HK, that my Leopard water jackets wouldn't. Now that they are on the motor (super tight) they look great. here is what it looks like. I plan on running these on 8s.
105402105403105404105405
theses are 1200kv motors can size is a true 40mm length is 74mm. I want to run some 5017/3 props in my Zonda cat.

[smileday]

Thank you for pointing out this. I think this is because the diameter of our can has been changed from 40mm to 39.5 mm (in order to match to the ducted fan we are going to develop for 90 mm EDF jets), but the O-ring has not been changed in the original package. I will keep this in mind and reflect to the factory. Maybe we should ask them to install the water cooling jackets for customers directly to ensure everything work.



TP Power can coolers.

I got one and installed it on a brand new TP Power motor. Their design utilizes the small diameter O-rings so there is not a large cross section. This also means the thickness of the water allowed to contact the motor is very thin. Another thing worthy to think about is if the distance between can O.D. and cooler I.D. is very narrow there will probably be some water flow restriction.

The cooler fit on the loose side. Granted it was oiled to slide on but it just felt to loose and sloppy. After a good run and getting this hot she was still loose. I also had more water inside the hull then I like to have. I noticed the screws on the motor end bell rusted- the screw on the very bottom. This leads me to think the water jacket was leaking.

Needless to say Im NOT a fan of these water jackets and wont use these again unless the design changes.

[smileday]

Hi Peter A,

Which version of TP 4050 7D did you get? For the old-version, TP 4050 7D is 1850 KV as shown here:
http://tppower.com/sort.asp?class_id=4&news=23

For the new-version, TP 4050 7D is 1730 KV as shown here:
http://www.tppowerusa.com/motors/build-your-own/tp-40xx-series/tp-4050

Neither version should be 2200 KV for 7D.

If you are talking about TP 4050 6D, then I kind of understand. The old version TP 4050 6D is 2200 KV. That may be because some of our distributors has not updated the data online, so you may get a new version 6D (2010 KV) when you thought you are getting a 2200 one (old version).

Sorry for the confusion. Do you have a tool to measure the real KV of the motor you got?


QUOTE=Peter A;527276]I recently got a TP Power 4050 7D (2200kv). The motor looks great, but the o rings supplied with the cooler were too small in section diameter and slipped straight off the can. I managed to get some bigger o rings that worked great. However this 2200kv motor does not seem as fast as the 2200kv Turigy Aquastar motor it replaced. More testing is needed but I am wondering if I shouldn't have just got another aquastar for about half the price![/QUOTE]

[Mike Caruso]

I recently got a TP 4083 2040 kv D-wind motor to test. The TP jacket was real short. I fitted a Leo 4082 68mm jacket and it fit nice and tight. Will test at the lake this week.

105320

Tony you dog.....such nice clean work. I like the way that you make everything look like it belongs there in that place. Something I try and do but have to start over many times Ha. The more layouts you do the better you get keep up with pictures please. You have saved me First with the HF 1/2 belt sander for props. My old hands thank you and I did borrow a few ideas from your setups.

[Mike Caruso]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?36454-TP-power-brushless-motor.&highlight=leopard+tp+power

Previous initial review of a Leopard Vs TP Power (old style now).

Nice inspection job thanks for sharing

[smileday]

Hello Basstronic,

Thank you for your interest in studying our motor. I have contacted our engineer about the new design. Basically the new design is a fully upgrade over the original race-proven version. Here is the detailed response.

1, about the rotor, we actually add another layer of carbon tow over the Kevlar. It ensures a smoother finish with extra strength. This design also features a better tension at higher temperature, because of the negative thermal expansion of the carbon fiber. You are welcome to test the maximum RPM of TP power motors. We ensure they can reach the specs. for all the series, including the big 56/58 series at 50k RPM. The new design adds extra protection when you push our motors to extreme.

2, We always use the precise cut laminate for the stator manufacturing. Both the new and old version come form the same mold. The internal diameter is the same, as well as the rotor diameter. Their dimensions are designed with computer simulation for best efficiencies.

3, All the magnets we use are of the highest temperature grade and the strengths are as good as the old version if not better.

4, We apologize for the screw problem. You can send an email for RMA and we can repairs it under warranty. Actually endbell is glued on with enough strength and these screws are just for extra precaution.

The major advantage of the new design is the one piece can. It ensures the tightest tolerance of the machining for smooth operation. It also reduces the weight which is critical for demanding races.

Sorry for the late response because we just saw this thread. For any questions regarding our product, you can reach us faster by sending an email.





Earlier this summer I lost a Leopard motor and I decided to replace it with a TP Power.

In the past I have torn down a TP Power and a Leopard to look at manufacturing qualities. I noted back then that the TP Power had a much better build quality than the Leopard. However this review is about the new style motors and is much less favorable.

First impression out of the box is good. Motor looks solid, nice wire wrap over the heat shrink. Again these are magnet wire armature leads right off the coil- THESE ARE NOT WIRE!

For boating applications it is necessary to remove the stickers to install a good water jacket. I also like to coat it in Corrosion X. So upon removing the stickers the first thing I notice is one of three set screws is missing. I put my wrench into one of the sockets and just the pressure from inserting it the set screw fell right out. Same thing with the next hole. Matter of fact is ALL THREE HOLES ARE STRIPPED. The ONLY thing holding the endbell on was whatever glue they used...

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/RC%20Boats/newleopard3_zps51bd653b.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/basstronics/media/RC%20Boats/newleopard3_zps51bd653b.jpg.html)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/RC%20Boats/newleopard2_zps2337a956.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/basstronics/media/RC%20Boats/newleopard2_zps2337a956.jpg.html)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/RC%20Boats/newleopard1_zpsf340947f.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/basstronics/media/RC%20Boats/newleopard1_zpsf340947f.jpg.html)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/RC%20Boats/newleopard5_zpsc53641c1.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/basstronics/media/RC%20Boats/newleopard5_zpsc53641c1.jpg.html)

So I get it out, pull the rotor out. Previously they used a kevlar wrap over the rotors- now they use carbon. While I have not confirmed it the magnets seemed to be weaker than the previous TP Power I had apart (One day I will get a gauss on these things!).

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/RC%20Boats/newleopard6_zps77dd3e4b.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/basstronics/media/RC%20Boats/newleopard6_zps77dd3e4b.jpg.html)

Next I look at the laminated stack the wire wraps around. Previous TP design the stacks appeared to be ID ground for a tighter clearance. This motor IS NOT. the workmanship on this end seems to be on par with Leopard. I dont see anything that sticks out as extraordinary or bad here.

So now Im to the point where I will have to redrill & tap the endbell. Instead of using the set screws I intend to install socket head cap screws. After fixing this I will coat in Corrosion X. Reassemble then I might try to run it this year still!

[lenny]

Hey Ryan. :tiphat:
I got the 4050 6d 2200kv motor & jacket and I see what you mean about the jacket fitting loose,
Also I did a bench test with the motor on 4s and it sounds like it misfires sometimes to me but not sure what to call it.
What should the timing be set at for this motor ?
I hand the esc already programed at 15* for the 4072 1800kv leopard when I was testing the TP 4050 6D 2200KV on the bench.

Also is this the same motor you took apart that I have now ?
And if so are the endbell set screws ok on it now ?
I did not try to remove them yet,
But I saw you said you I intended to install socket head cap screws to fix the problem.
But these just look like stock set screws in it to me.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?36454-TP-power-brushless-motor.&highlight=leopard+tp+power


Thanks for any info.





TP Power can coolers.

I got one and installed it on a brand new TP Power motor. Their design utilizes the small diameter O-rings so there is not a large cross section. This also means the thickness of the water allowed to contact the motor is very thin. Another thing worthy to think about is if the distance between can O.D. and cooler I.D. is very narrow there will probably be some water flow restriction.

The cooler fit on the loose side. Granted it was oiled to slide on but it just felt to loose and sloppy. After a good run and getting this hot she was still loose. I also had more water inside the hull then I like to have. I noticed the screws on the motor end bell rusted- the screw on the very bottom. This leads me to think the water jacket was leaking.

Needless to say Im NOT a fan of these water jackets and wont use these again unless the design changes.

[lenny]

Hi smileday, :tiphat:

So what is covered under RMA for these motors,
And also how does it work for the customer with shipping and handling and repairs if needed ?
Like the old 4050 6D 2200KV version motor that I have.

Thanks for any info on this matter.


4, We apologize for the screw problem. You can send an email for RMA and we can repairs it under warranty. Actually endbell is glued on with enough strength and these screws are just for extra precaution.





Hi Peter A,

Which version of TP 4050 7D did you get? For the old-version, TP 4050 7D is 1850 KV as shown here:
http://tppower.com/sort.asp?class_id=4&news=23

For the new-version, TP 4050 7D is 1730 KV as shown here:
http://www.tppowerusa.com/motors/build-your-own/tp-40xx-series/tp-4050

Neither version should be 2200 KV for 7D.

If you are talking about TP 4050 6D, then I kind of understand. The old version TP 4050 6D is 2200 KV. That may be because some of our distributors has not updated the data online, so you may get a new version 6D (2010 KV) when you thought you are getting a 2200 one (old version).

Sorry for the confusion. Do you have a tool to measure the real KV of the motor you got?


QUOTE=Peter A;527276]I recently got a TP Power 4050 7D (2200kv). The motor looks great, but the o rings supplied with the cooler were too small in section diameter and slipped straight off the can. I managed to get some bigger o rings that worked great. However this 2200kv motor does not seem as fast as the 2200kv Turigy Aquastar motor it replaced. More testing is needed but I am wondering if I shouldn't have just got another aquastar for about half the price![/QUOTE]

[Basstronics]

Lenny,

That is the motor I previously had apart and my previous comparison- not the one subject to this review. It sounded great on my bench- I believe its a D wind motor.

Note that since its the previous style motor it should snug up after use (gets warm, oil is removed from can-etc).

While I would NEVER purposely sell something thats bad without disclosing it- it has been a bit since I benched the motor. Also I sent this out to nitronuts who never used it just installed it. Only thing I can think of is if a solder joint might not be good or corrosion? Might be worth a quick look. If it indeed is bad send it back and I can send yours back of buy it or whatever you want to do. I dont want anyone unhappy.

[lenny]

Ok,
I was not sure if I should open it up or just leave it alone.

And I am still not sure on what the timing should be on it.

Also are they new threads and screws in the endbell on this motor than ?

I thought you said you where going to put socket head cap screws in it,
From the old post thread you did on it.

Also note that when I tested it last night on the bench I also was checking temps on the setup and motor,
And the motor did hit 106f while it was running and all other temps were room at 80f.
This test was done with no water flowing or cooling of any kind for about two minutes of on and off throttle,
To try and find out what it sounded like and feel for any vibrations coming from it.

[Basstronics]

At 15 degrees timing you put a lot of heat into it, pretty sure thats a D wind motor. Set timing low- like 0 degrees. Most TP Power motors are D wind.

[smileday]

0 to 10 degree is the setting we suggested. 0 might be better.


Ok,
I was not sure if I should open it up or just leave it alone.

And I am still not sure on what the timing should be on it.

Also are they new threads and screws in the endbell on this motor than ?

I thought you said you where going to put socket head cap screws in it,
From the old post thread you did on it.

Also note that when I tested it last night on the bench I also was checking temps on the setup and motor,
And the motor did hit 106f while it was running and all other temps were room at 80f.
This test was done with no water flowing or cooling of any kind for about two minutes of on and off throttle,
To try and find out what it sounded like and feel for any vibrations coming from it.

[smileday]

TP Power offer one-year warranty from the date of purchase for motors that have defects in materials or workmanship. This warranty does not cover damage caused by misuse, damage from crashes or vibration, and damage caused by dirt. Some wear parts supposed to be replaced from time to time are not covered under the warranty, for example, ball bearing, motor wires under extreme stress and so on. For customers in North America, please contact info@tppowerusa.com for issuing a RMA number. You can describe what's wrong with the motor and we will get back to you asap.



Hi smileday, :tiphat:

So what is covered under RMA for these motors,
And also how does it work for the customer with shipping and handling and repairs if needed ?
Like the old 4050 6D 2200KV version motor that I have.

Thanks for any info on this matter.


4, We apologize for the screw problem. You can send an email for RMA and we can repairs it under warranty. Actually endbell is glued on with enough strength and these screws are just for extra precaution.




[/QUOTE]

[properchopper]

Got my hands on a TP Power TP4060 5D 2040KV motor. Took the Neu 1521 1.5D 1900KV motor out of the Cheetah and, for safety's sake on the first run took off the X452 2-blade and replaced it with a 447/3. ESC is a CC Hydra 240 (old style), timing at 4 deg , batteries 4S2P 65C/130C 5000mah Dinogys. VERY IMPRESSIVE !! The Neu with the 452/2 was mid/upper 50 mph - the TP Power motor had me easily at 60 mph (my Garmin gps wouldn't aquire satellites) but this boat RIPPED - Fairly short run, but endbell was at 135 degrees which I believe is quite acceptable. I know there's more speed available, but I got major ya-ya's with this setup :rockon2:

I don't race this boat, it's just for grins. Next I'm going to put the motor in my 34" Insane P-Mono and kick some a$^ on the competition :thumbup1:

Verdict : At $119 this is a Great Buy !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl5ebHR6wR4

[Mike Caruso]

Nice to hear it is a good motor. Yes $$$ wise very good.

[Peter A]

Hi Smileday, motor can has a 2200kv sticker on it. I'll just try propping up for now, I'll also try some rpm measuring at some stage when I have time.


Hi Peter A,

Which version of TP 4050 7D did you get? For the old-version, TP 4050 7D is 1850 KV as shown here:
http://tppower.com/sort.asp?class_id=4&news=23

For the new-version, TP 4050 7D is 1730 KV as shown here:
http://www.tppowerusa.com/motors/build-your-own/tp-40xx-series/tp-4050

Neither version should be 2200 KV for 7D.

If you are talking about TP 4050 6D, then I kind of understand. The old version TP 4050 6D is 2200 KV. That may be because some of our distributors has not updated the data online, so you may get a new version 6D (2010 KV) when you thought you are getting a 2200 one (old version).

Sorry for the confusion. Do you have a tool to measure the real KV of the motor you got?


QUOTE=Peter A;527276]I recently got a TP Power 4050 7D (2200kv). The motor looks great, but the o rings supplied with the cooler were too small in section diameter and slipped straight off the can. I managed to get some bigger o rings that worked great. However this 2200kv motor does not seem as fast as the 2200kv Turigy Aquastar motor it replaced. More testing is needed but I am wondering if I shouldn't have just got another aquastar for about half the price![/QUOTE]

[ray schrauwen]

0 degrees you say? I've heard it doesn't always work so I didn't want to try it. Is there any reason it could cause a problem if I try it?

Thx.


At 15 degrees timing you put a lot of heat into it, pretty sure thats a D wind motor. Set timing low- like 0 degrees. Most TP Power motors are D wind.

[Peter A]

Ok so I ran my rigger today with the tp power motor in it. I haven't got a gps but it was going ok, with a cnc prop 45mm x 1.6. On 7 laps of our course it used around 80% of 5000mah packs. So when I got home I did some testing for kv. With a 2S pack, average voltage of 7.36V, ( pack hadn't been recharged yet), an average of 15204 rpm (unloaded). This gives a kv of 2065. The sticker on the motor I bought says 2200kv, and that was what I ordered.
So I'm definitely going slower than with the cheap aquastar motor I previously was running. This was not the aim, I was wanting to be getting better speed from the tp power motor and feel a bit ripped off as the motor is not doing what it was rated to do! So WTF! I am somewhat disappointed with this as I don't have a lot of spare money to throw around buying stuff.
And the big question is...are TP power motors worth it? I could've brought another aquastar motor and T180 for the price.
The real issue here though is that the motor does not do what it is supposed to, that is around 2000 prop speedys missing. The difference between winning and losing a race??

[smileday]

Your dealer may have ordered the 6D from our company according to the old data on tppower.com (we keep this data unchanged for the buyer of the old version, but should have given the new data to the dealers, need to confirm), but actually got a new version 6D which should be 2010 kv. Not sure about the label thing. The other possibility is measurement error. The data on the USA website is correct for new generation.

You can communicate with your local dealer to see if you can exchange your motor to a 4050 3Y (2220 kv) on their shipping. If not, contact sales@tppower.com, address to Candy, describe what you think and see what she said. I do have the 2220 kv in us warehouse but it cost much time and money to ship from here. Contact us is the final solution if she do not have a stock.

Sorry for consuming you some time for looking for a solution. Sometimes confusion may be caused when a product was upgraded to new generation. Hope you understand. In addition, for the same winding, the kv of new generation become lower than the old version one, which is an indication of the improvement of the magnets. You just need to get the one you need to know how powerful it is. Even with the one you have now, it is not necessarily that " I'm definitely going slower than with the cheap aquastar motor I previously was running" since the efficiency of our motors are very high. We have lots of customers who are worlds racers in Europe can prove this. Will publish some email feedbacks after getting their approval on the website in the future.




Ok so I ran my rigger today with the tp power motor in it. I haven't got a gps but it was going ok, with a cnc prop 45mm x 1.6. On 7 laps of our course it used around 80% of 5000mah packs. So when I got home I did some testing for kv. With a 2S pack, average voltage of 7.36V, ( pack hadn't been recharged yet), an average of 15204 rpm (unloaded). This gives a kv of 2065. The sticker on the motor I bought says 2200kv, and that was what I ordered.
So I'm definitely going slower than with the cheap aquastar motor I previously was running. This was not the aim, I was wanting to be getting better speed from the tp power motor and feel a bit ripped off as the motor is not doing what it was rated to do! So WTF! I am somewhat disappointed with this as I don't have a lot of spare money to throw around buying stuff.
And the big question is...are TP power motors worth it? I could've brought another aquastar motor and T180 for the price.
The real issue here though is that the motor does not do what it is supposed to, that is around 2000 prop speedys missing. The difference between winning and losing a race??

[smileday]

Yes, 0 degree works


0 degrees you say? I've heard it doesn't always work so I didn't want to try it. Is there any reason it could cause a problem if I try it?

Thx.

[Basstronics]

With a better more robust motor you should be able to prop up. Did you KV test the Aquastar?


Ok so I ran my rigger today with the tp power motor in it. I haven't got a gps but it was going ok, with a cnc prop 45mm x 1.6. On 7 laps of our course it used around 80% of 5000mah packs. So when I got home I did some testing for kv. With a 2S pack, average voltage of 7.36V, ( pack hadn't been recharged yet), an average of 15204 rpm (unloaded). This gives a kv of 2065. The sticker on the motor I bought says 2200kv, and that was what I ordered.
So I'm definitely going slower than with the cheap aquastar motor I previously was running. This was not the aim, I was wanting to be getting better speed from the tp power motor and feel a bit ripped off as the motor is not doing what it was rated to do! So WTF! I am somewhat disappointed with this as I don't have a lot of spare money to throw around buying stuff.
And the big question is...are TP power motors worth it? I could've brought another aquastar motor and T180 for the price.
The real issue here though is that the motor does not do what it is supposed to, that is around 2000 prop speedys missing. The difference between winning and losing a race??

[lenny]

Well the sucks about your findings with the rigger,
And the Aquastar motor versus the TP motor.
What timing where you using for the TP motor when testing it ?

But hey Peter move over because looks like I am in the same boat as you,
I am pretty sure I have the same 4050 6d 2200kv motor as you do and it has the 4050 2200kv tag on it like yours does.
And I was hoping that the TP 2200kv was going to give me more speed or a lest the same as my Leopard 2200kv,
But not if the kv is that far off on them.

I am going to try and have both motors of mine tested in the lab at work,
To see what the story is on the kv and the magnetic flux density of them with a gauss tester.
I would like to test the 2200kv aquastar motor to and see how it compares to them.

But not sure if I can get the lab time because of some new projects that are going on right now.



Ok so I ran my rigger today with the tp power motor in it. I haven't got a gps but it was going ok, with a cnc prop 45mm x 1.6. On 7 laps of our course it used around 80% of 5000mah packs. So when I got home I did some testing for kv. With a 2S pack, average voltage of 7.36V, ( pack hadn't been recharged yet), an average of 15204 rpm (unloaded). This gives a kv of 2065. The sticker on the motor I bought says 2200kv, and that was what I ordered.
So I'm definitely going slower than with the cheap aquastar motor I previously was running. This was not the aim, I was wanting to be getting better speed from the tp power motor and feel a bit ripped off as the motor is not doing what it was rated to do! So WTF! I am somewhat disappointed with this as I don't have a lot of spare money to throw around buying stuff.
And the big question is...are TP power motors worth it? I could've brought another aquastar motor and T180 for the price.
The real issue here though is that the motor does not do what it is supposed to, that is around 2000 prop speedys missing. The difference between winning and losing a race??

[Basstronics]

Hello Basstronic,

2, We always use the precise cut laminate for the stator manufacturing. Both the new and old version come form the same mold. The internal diameter is the same, as well as the rotor diameter. Their dimensions are designed with computer simulation for best efficiencies.

3, All the magnets we use are of the highest temperature grade and the strengths are as good as the old version if not better.




In addition, for the same winding, the kv of new generation become lower than the old version one, which is an indication of the improvement of the magnets.



http://youtu.be/Ku1oj-HicZw

[lenny]

:olleyes:
This video is unavailable.:noidea:

[Basstronics]

lol Im uploading it right now. Says 41 more minutes... ouch!

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/RC%20Boats/DSCF2145_zpsd212b836.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/basstronics/media/RC%20Boats/DSCF2145_zpsd212b836.jpg.html)

I rotated the end bell. I prick-punched the center of each hole location. I then #1 center drilled (only the tip portion!), tap drill 3/32" and then I tapped on location. Using Tap Magic for Aluminum no threads pulled and it all cut like warm butter!

Of course CorrosionX was applied twice to ensure coverage.

I then slid some silicone tubing down on the wires to make a grommet. Shes back together better than factory new!

[lenny]

:lol:
Sorry love video's.:popcorn2:

[smileday]

Thank you for the video. Nice demonstration.
Actually the wrap has two layers, if you cut the black carbon fiber outside, you can see the yellow Kevlar inside.



lol Im uploading it right now. Says 41 more minutes... ouch!

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/RC%20Boats/DSCF2145_zpsd212b836.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/basstronics/media/RC%20Boats/DSCF2145_zpsd212b836.jpg.html)

I rotated the end bell. I prick-punched the center of each hole location. I then #1 center drilled (only the tip portion!), tap drill 3/32" and then I tapped on location. Using Tap Magic for Aluminum no threads pulled and it all cut like warm butter!

Of course CorrosionX was applied twice to ensure coverage.

I then slid some silicone tubing down on the wires to make a grommet. Shes back together better than factory new!

[Peter A]

Hi Smileday
Thanks for your reply. I got the motor from RcBoatBitz in Aussie. The motor and it's box both say 2200kv. It is just too much hassle to try and change it, after all they supplied what was ordered. The motor itself I am reasonably happy with, it runs well, barely gets warm, even after running 11laps. Timing was set at 15* and temps were low so is it possible that it is a Y wind, and should I change the timing? Would I see any improvement?


Your dealer may have ordered the 6D from our company according to the old data on tppower.com (we keep this data unchanged for the buyer of the old version, but should have given the new data to the dealers, need to confirm), but actually got a new version 6D which should be 2010 kv. Not sure about the label thing. The other possibility is measurement error. The data on the USA website is correct for new generation.

You can communicate with your local dealer to see if you can exchange your motor to a 4050 3Y (2220 kv) on their shipping. If not, contact sales@tppower.com, address to Candy, describe what you think and see what she said. I do have the 2220 kv in us warehouse but it cost much time and money to ship from here. Contact us is the final solution if she do not have a stock.

Sorry for consuming you some time for looking for a solution. Sometimes confusion may be caused when a product was upgraded to new generation. Hope you understand. In addition, for the same winding, the kv of new generation become lower than the old version one, which is an indication of the improvement of the magnets. You just need to get the one you need to know how powerful it is. Even with the one you have now, it is not necessarily that " I'm definitely going slower than with the cheap aquastar motor I previously was running" since the efficiency of our motors are very high. We have lots of customers who are worlds racers in Europe can prove this. Will publish some email feedbacks after getting their approval on the website in the future.


The next prop I have is an x447/3, it needs a little detoungueing, thinning and balancing. That may give problems with the flex however as I'm only running .150. I may test the aquastar but i'll have to put some bullets on the leads first.


With a better more robust motor you should be able to prop up. Did you KV test the Aquastar?

[smileday]

Your timing seems too high. We suggested 0 to 10 degree for the setting. 0 degree might be better, or 4 degree, 5 degree like that.


Hi Smileday
Thanks for your reply. I got the motor from RcBoatBitz in Aussie. The motor and it's box both say 2200kv. It is just too much hassle to try and change it, after all they supplied what was ordered. The motor itself I am reasonably happy with, it runs well, barely gets warm, even after running 11laps. Timing was set at 15* and temps were low so is it possible that it is a Y wind, and should I change the timing? Would I see any improvement?




The next prop I have is an x447/3, it needs a little detoungueing, thinning and balancing. That may give problems with the flex however as I'm only running .150. I may test the aquastar but i'll have to put some bullets on the leads first.

[Peter A]

Your timing seems too high. We suggested 0 to 10 degree for the setting. 0 degree might be better, or 4 degree, 5 degree like that.

Why such low timing, 4 pole motors normally seem to run 10-15*? But I'll give it a try next time out. Thanks.

[smileday]

In general, the low timing setting results in higher efficiency. We suggest 0 timing for the setting option of Castle speed controllers, where there is actually very small amount of advance preset.


Why such low timing, 4 pole motors normally seem to run 10-15*? But I'll give it a try next time out. Thanks.

[Peter A]

What about with a T-180?

[Rumdog]

Speed controller and poles have nothing to do with timing. The motors wind style does. d is 0-10, WYE is 10-15

[smileday]

Here is some reference that explain in more detail from Neumotors (the last two sections about the castle and other type ESC). We got similar results when test different motors. For "D", 0-10 is recommended; for "Y", 0-15 is recommended.
http://neumotors.com/Site/FAQs_%26_setup.html


I suggest you can try several timing to find the best working point for you. Usually, low timing results in more efficiency but sacrifice some speed. If you can add one more cell, we suggest low timing to get better efficiency and also good speed.



What about with a T-180?

[Peter A]

5S is some thing I'm considering, but I'll just prop up for now, and lower the timing!


Here is some reference that explain in more detail from Neumotors (the last two sections about the castle and other type ESC). We got similar results when test different motors. For "D", 0-10 is recommended; for "Y", 0-15 is recommended.
http://neumotors.com/Site/FAQs_%26_setup.html


I suggest you can try several timing to find the best working point for you. Usually, low timing results in more efficiency but sacrifice some speed. If you can add one more cell, we suggest low timing to get better efficiency and also good speed.