New hardware taking shape

[kookie_guy]

So I'm designing my own hardware. Here's what I have so far. Learning solid works as I go along, hehe. Gonna get my CNC shop to quote this when the design is fully complete. Not much to look at right now, but it's just the beginning. I will post as stuff gets completed.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/hardware.jpg

[lonewolf]

Just about any machine shop can do this kind of work, a cnc is not need and will cost ya more than buying it outright. I would check out the local high school machine shop, a student would do a great job and he would get extra credit. And you might get a new boating buddy out of the deal .... Just a thought .

[kookie_guy]

Just about any machine shop can do this kind of work, a cnc is not need and will cost ya more than buying it outright. I would check out the local high school machine shop, a student would do a great job and he would get extra credit. And you might get a new boating buddy out of the deal .... Just a thought .

ya I could also make it myself at work (have full access to a machine shop). I was thinking of having about 100 of em made and sell off on e-bay. Gotta see pricing first tho to see the margins.

[frdvschvy]

ya I could also make it myself at work (have full access to a machine shop). I was thinking of having about 100 of em made and sell off on e-bay. Gotta see pricing first tho to see the margins.


If you go this route the folks here at OSE should get first dibs :smile:

What will be unique to this hardware kit compared to others on the market?

[kookie_guy]

If you go this route the folks here at OSE should get first dibs :smile:

What will be unique to this hardware kit compared to others on the market?

well, you've seen one, you've seen em all. It's gonna be a lot shorter than the fuller's one which should make it much better looking. Plus it's going to be made for the BJ26, not a generic item. I like the twisted liquid racing one, but too many people having issues with that company right now. So I'm hoping price and service will be the main selling point.

[kookie_guy]

quick update. haven't really had tonnes of time to work on this, but here's where I am so far. Hopefully by tomorrow I should have the rudder drawn in, as well as the complete transom.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/hardware2.jpg

[kookie_guy]

just got the transom and stuffing tube drawn up. Now, couple quick questions for the experts....

1) how deep should the rudder be submerged? For ease of look at it, picture the centre of the prop, how much deeper should the rudder extend? Is there a general rule to this?

2) when people say .150 cable....is that the OD of the cable? the ID of the stuffing tube? or the OD of the liner?

3) Would it make sense to have the liner extend all the way out of the stuffing tube and through the piece that holds the prop adapter?

thanks, and here's a pic.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/hardware3.jpg

[crazzy maxx]

nice work.
i think it should run mabey .5mm below the outer sponsons.

[kookie_guy]

nice work.
i think it should run mabey .5mm below the outer sponsons.

0.5mm or 5mm?

[crazzy maxx]

0.5
or make it ajustable

[kookie_guy]

0.5
or make it ajustable

but look how far down the fuller's one goes. I'm talking about the rudder, not the prop. I just realized I had a typo up top.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/boat.jpg

[crazzy maxx]

i run mine and inch and 3 quaters off the bottom of the sponson and it handels nicely. but it is off set.

[kookie_guy]

I have a pretty cool idea I wanna draw up and simulate to see if there will be issues. The servo horn on the rudder is going to get moved directly to the pivot point. Being the way it is, if you modify the servo to use 2 linkages, it would not work because the distance changes as you turn. The pivot being in the middle, the length stays constant. The next step will be hydraulic steering arms. I gotta see if I can put these on with no binding, as they will be straight shaft from servo to steering. This way, you can use the servo to move and hold both rods, as opposed to push/pull steering you get with cable hydraulic arms.

Hmmmm, I got some planning to do.

[crazzy maxx]

im confused i need a picture to show me

[kookie_guy]

im confused i need a picture to show me

hehe, I'll have one tonight, maybe tomorrow at the latest.

[crazzy maxx]

anouther thing make it as light as possible but still strong enough to last a crash.
if you need a tester lmk:wink:

[kookie_guy]

anouther thing make it as light as possible but still strong enough to last a crash.
if you need a tester lmk:wink:

that's the plan, hehe. Not sure if I'm gonna mass produce these or not. Seems like there are quite a bit of components to machine so the pricing might not be as attractive as I hoped. If I don't do a mass run, I will offer this to people at my exact cost, plus shipping and any fees.

[crazzy maxx]

thats about right fopr a price.
what about the water pic up? is it gona be a prop wash or built into the rudder?

[kookie_guy]

thats about right fopr a price.
what about the water pic up? is it gona be a prop wash or built into the rudder?

I was going to do a separate one like tlr has attached to the transom.

[kookie_guy]

here's the modified design. Is this enough rudder sweep from side to side? It's at 40 degrees in each direction, combined total of 80 degrees movement.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/hardware6.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/hardware4.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/hardware5.jpg

[Ub Hauled]

Kookie, from looking at your 3D I noticed that there isn't much base support there... maybe you should add some metal to the base... it'll take a lot of force and the more base the better.

[kookie_guy]

Kookie, from looking at your 3D I noticed that there isn't much base support there... maybe you should add some metal to the base... it'll take a lot of force and the more base the better.

you mean the point where it all attaches to the transom? if not, which part are you referring to?

[crazzy maxx]

i think thts fine the way it is... i like it so far and it looks like it would be a nice set up

[Ub Hauled]

yes, where it attaches to the hull, where the 4 screws would be...
I think you'd need a bigger footprint in order not to have so much
localized force due to the long strut...

[kookie_guy]

yes, where it attaches to the hull, where the 4 screws would be...
I think you'd need a bigger footprint in order not to have so much
localized force due to the long strut...

I will see what I can do to beef it up a bit without adding too much weight. They are the way they are so that they bolt right up to the stock location. I want these to be a direct swap with zero modifications.

[Ub Hauled]

that is totally fine.
what I meant was making the base instead of .5" x .5"
1" x 1" (numbers are an example)... leave the holes where they are it should help a bit.

[crazzy maxx]

yea the aero marine hardwear is like 4 mm off i was so pissed...

[kookie_guy]

hey just thinking out loud here, what about a dual rudder setup? obviously you'd have to drill holes to mount it up, but would that make it handle better or worse?

[crazzy maxx]

it would be more weight but tlr has the dual rudder design

[kookie_guy]

it would be more weight but tlr has the dual rudder design

hmmm, maybe a future project to keep in mind. I gotta force myself to stay on track here, hehe. I have too many ideas. Can't sleep at night cuz my brain is going crazy thinking of cool stuff to build/design. :w00t:

[crazzy maxx]

lol i know what you mean . its just i cant get to try and build it

[rockwerks]

My thought here is that on a dual rudder setup it should be much more stable in the turns and should not need the turn fins. Im betting drag will be not much of an issue and weight should about cancel out the turn fins........thoughts?

[kookie_guy]

been quiet for a while, been busy. But here is the concept for the dual rudder system. Simulates VERY nice in solidworks.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/dualhardware.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/dualhardware4.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/dualhardware3.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/dualhardware2.jpg

[rockwerks]

very nice.

[Ub Hauled]

nice!
Is there enough room to move the strut up/down/tilt?
just making sure the connecting rod is not crossing over it.

[kookie_guy]

nice!
Is there enough room to move the strut up/down/tilt?
just making sure the connecting rod is not crossing over it.

thanks guys. ya it shouldn't be a problem. I already had to put some offset spacers under it to make clearance for the servo horn. If need be, the spacers can be a bit taller. All will be proven out before anything gets made. That's the beauty of solid works. hehe.

[crazzy maxx]

it looks like if it where to have a prop when it turned it looks like it would hit the rudder

[rockwerks]

it looks like if it where to have a prop when it turned it looks like it would hit the rudder a 3" prop maybe

[kookie_guy]

it looks like if it where to have a prop when it turned it looks like it would hit the rudder

nah it only looks like that. there is tonnes of space. I'll probably draw in a make shift prop when I'm done to show the clearances

[kookie_guy]

quick question. I'm about to start drawing up the strut now. I have no idea as far as what the drive cable looks like.

It's basically a .150d cable, with a 3/16" shaft welded to the end of it? That would mean the bushing inside diameter on the strut would have to be 3/16" correct?

[kookie_guy]

ok, here's what we got....

here are a few angles...the strut bracket stick up at the top because it will be slotted for adjustment, which will make this fully adjustable to anything you have. Right now it's inline with the stock stuffing tube.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/finishedoverview1.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/finishedoverview2.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/finishedoverview3.jpg

rear view with and without transom...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/finishedrearview.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/finishednotransom.jpg

[kookie_guy]

and top view of the sweep. lots of clearance for everything...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/finishedtopview1.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/finishedtopview2.jpg

[kookie_guy]

got some more drawn up. here you can see I added a feature to the strut which will allow for a water pickup. I've also drawn in a makeshift octura x642 prop. I've actually oversized it quite a bit on the drawing to see clearances, and as you can see, there is plenty of room on both ends of rudder travel.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/complete1.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/complete2.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/general/complete3.jpg

[Ocean Racer]

quick question. I'm about to start drawing up the strut now. I have no idea as far as what the drive cable looks like.

It's basically a .150d cable, with a 3/16" shaft welded to the end of it? That would mean the bushing inside diameter on the strut would have to be 3/16" correct?

Ya that would make sense if you make the the same size the bushing wont fit. So yes make it one size bigger.