Converting at gas boat to electric, need advise.

[stelerzman]

Hi everyone, I just aquired a "Blake" gas boat and need some guidence. This is the info I have on hand.
The hull is 32.5" long to the transome, over all it's 35" long. Here are some pics ofthe boat..
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If anyone could please postup any info on this boat and if there are still parts available I would greatly appreciate it. I'm in need of a canopy.
I would also like to know what my options are in converting it to electric. Any and all info would be great. Thanks.

[stelerzman]

No info from anyone????????

[grsboats]

I don't know much about your Blake boat but I can say that any gás/nitro boat can be converted to FE.With this lenght I think a 4074 or even a 4082 motor would serve you well.If its a fun boat you can run it on 4/5 or 6S depending on your speed goal.A great esc is the Seaking/turnigy T 180 to work with 40C or more batteries.You will need to make a good cleaning to remove oil/grease before start the rebuilding,Here at OSE you can find motor mount and etc that can fit in your boat .To keep it simple you can make a lid cover with wood or plastic just to start testing it.Gill

[stelerzman]

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction Gill. I'll start lookinh for your suggestions.

[stelerzman]

Ok, now I know what to get, my next question is which kv rated motor? Highter, lower or middle. I'm not too familiar with these motors considering I'm new to boating. Thanks.

[grsboats]

Well with high kv motors you can have higher rpm's BUT amps can be an issue to the controller so in this case only short runs.A good combo for your boat would be a 1600kv to run in 4/5S and as you get more confident you can upgrade for higher set ups.With this combo you can use props with 45mm(X445,M545) diam to start.Gill

[grsboats]

One more thing that you must know:Fe boats do not like water inside so keep it Always wet otherwise you will see smoke!There are many threads about mono buildings so take your time to observe the pictures and to get familiarized with their set ups before start yours.I only run riggers but have built many cat's for customers and I'm sure others will chime in to help you too! Gill

[stelerzman]

Fantastic, thanks Gill. I'll do my research and see what I can learn.

Any idea what I can base the canopy off of?

[stelerzman]

I just finished gutting the "Blake" boat. Now I can figure out the mounting location of the motor mount which I'll try to make myself.
Any ideas and tips will be great.

[grsboats]

There're many ways to make a canopy but with a flat ABS pannel you can make a lid just to get your boat wet then after have it dialed you can think to work a better piece.Gill

[grsboats]

see this link to have some guidance: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?33858-1st-Build-Insane-Boats-34-quot-Mono.Hope this will help you.Cheers Gill

[stelerzman]

Alot of good info, thanks Gill. What are your thoughts of putting in a.2200 kv motor?

[stelerzman]

I've been cleaning up the boat and noticed the outside bottom has some deep scratches that need repaired. Will bondo work?
Also, what paint do I use, what about Krylon? Thank you for any help.:thumbup:

[stelerzman]

Here are themost current pic's.

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Please lmk what you think is the best solution to this issue. Thanks.:bounce:

[stelerzman]

Here are 2 more.

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My main qustion is how do I get the bottom of the hull fixed???:help:

[stelerzman]

I almost forgot this one.

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[stelerzman]

How does the hull look so far??????
Am I on the right track, does anything look off????
Thanks.

[stelerzman]

Getting some sanding blocks tomorrow, what is a good grit to start and finish?
Thanks.

[stelerzman]

Well, I'm starting with 120 grit to take off the top coat then go to 220. Once it get it where I like it I'll start in with 400 and the final sanding will be 600. I hope to get sanding tomorrow. I'll post pics of my progress.:beerchug:

[stelerzman]

Here's what the bottom of the hull looks like after wet sanding with 120.

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Next will be the 220.

[stelerzman]

Here is the progress after sanding with 220.

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400 grit is next, I hope this will really smooth out the finish, this way I can start the repair process then paint.
Can I use Krylon spray paint and will it bond?????
Thanks for any advise:thumbup1:

[stelerzman]

I started sanding the top of the hull and low and behold, look what I found under the top coat color of black.

Here is what I started with.
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In this picture you can see the gold penstripping, I removed it and started :hornets_nest: and this is what I found:hug1:
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It kinda goes along with my color idea but in the reverse order, I want black on top and yellow on the bottom. I'll make this happen sooner or later.:banana::rofl:

[stelerzman]

I have some parts in to start mocking up the locations of the electronics. Ie batteries, motor, esc, servo and receiver. Here are some pic's, help me out if I'm going in the wrong direction. Thanks.

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Thank you for any help or advice you can offer.:bowdown:

[lenny]

How wide is that hull at the transom ?

I would set it up with the motor closer to the transom and stuffing tube,
And may be have the esc on a mount over top of the motor.
Than the motor and esc wires could be shorten up some,
And the cell can be moved bow to stern for better CG and ride attitude of the boat.
You could also put the two cells in back of the motor too,
And see how it handle and rides like that down the line.

[srislash]

Boy you haven't been getting much help here have you?
Your gear looks good. You want a baseline CG of 30% of the hull. This is where the hull will balance, in this case 9.6" from the transom is where you want it
I myself am just starting a 32" mono right now.
Yes finally getting to the Bling Rocket Lenny.

[lenny]

Good to hear Shawn,
I will be following the build if you do one on hear. :popcorn2:

[stelerzman]

To lenny: The transome is 10" wide measured from the outside, I would like to move the motor towards the back of the boat. I'd like to know how do I cut the flex cable to shorten it up????? Also, do I need to get a flex cable sleeve?? Is it necessary????
The 2 cells are only in there for mock up reasons only, I'm waiting on 65c+ batteries, they should be here with in a couple weeks.

To srislash: I'm OK with the info I've received so far as this build is not a priority at the moment. It's more of a project than a necessity. I'm enjoying running my UL-1.
I'm confused on how to set the CG and how to read it. You stated "9.5"from the transom" How do I know if the boat is set up correctly????? How much of the hull should be in the water while it's floating?????


Thanks guys, I really appreciate the advice.:cool:

[lenny]

On the flex cable shortening,
A high speed cut off wheel works very good for that.

9.5 will be where the boat hull seasaws or balances on a thin line,
From bow to stern at that 9.5"
Also CG will be done on the edge of a table or a boat stand with all the setup in place for mock up,
But you will not need the cell in the boat for that.

As for a sleeve,
What is the OD and Id of the stuffing tube in the boat ?
And what size flex cable are you going to be using .187 or .250 ?

[stelerzman]

The flex shaft is .15" ,.the stuffing tube is 4.85mm-id and 6.4mm-od inside the hull.
The strut is 4.8mm id and the od is 9.75mm.

[lenny]

No you should not need a sleeve than,
The grease on the flex and a 1/2" piece of fuel line on the stuffing tube where the flex come out,
Should work as a seal to help keep water out of the hull and grease in the tube.

[stelerzman]

Thanks lenny, how much do you think I should cut off the stuffing tube?

[srislash]

I have some parts in to start mocking up the locations of the electronics. Ie batteries, motor, esc, servo and receiver. Here are some pic's, help me out if I'm going in the wrong direction. Thanks.

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Thank you for any help or advice you can offer.:bowdown:
I think the motor where the ESC is in the pic would be good. I would keep the motor behind that 9.5" mark but with adequate room to work on the motor bolts/ coupler. You will have plenty of room forward of motor then to set batteries to get your balance.
What kv(ie:2000) is that motor

[stelerzman]

It's a Turnigy 4082 1500kv motor.

[srislash]

So the tube can be cut 3/4" behind where the motor shaft ends when in its mounted position. This will leave room for the coupler and and such

[stelerzman]

I was able to take a closer look at the stuffing tube and the motor placement. Here's the problem I'm seeing. As of now the motor would
be aprox. 1/2" off the bottom of the hull, which concerns me because if water should get it the motor would not have enough clearence to stay out of the water. Also, if I shorten the stuffing tube then the motor would be evan lower in the hull.

Here are some pic's for verification.

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[lenny]

You just need to keep it dry in there,:sinking-guy:
The motor will get wet from time to time in most boats.
Just need to dry them out when that happen and coat them with WD 40 or CorrosionX,
Before they get wet.
All my boats have the motor as low as I can get them to the hulls floor.
I think it helps with keep them top side up in a roll over and coming off of some good wakes to,
My Little Modded Rio that I never use tape on gets wet almost every time I run in heavy chop.
But it is still running very good with very old and cheap parts in it.
I just bring it in and drain it out and put a fresh pack in and send it back out,
Than when I get home from running I just let it dry out good and sometimes I lube it with some WD 40.
But it is nice if you can keep the water out side of the hull. :lol:

[stelerzman]

Thanks for the info lenny, after looking at the pic's do you think I should still shorten the stuffing tube and if so to what length???:frusty:

[stelerzman]

I have to admit that this site, OSE, has THE best smilies EVER.:rockon2::rockon2::rockon2::rockon2::rockon2:

[lenny]

I think 5" is looking pretty good.:glare:
But remember measure three times cut once,
Or replace the whole tube and start over again.:hornets_nest:

[stelerzman]

Ok, thanks. How do I Remove the old stuffing tube? Can I use ss for a new one?

[lenny]

Very carefully with a Jack hammer works for me. :bounce:
SS will work, But just very hard to shape and bend,
Must use brass for that reason because it is soft and will not rust to.:tongue_smilie:

[stelerzman]

Do you think heating the tube will soften the resin enough to release it?

[srislash]

Heating the tube is the way to go. If you have a good wattage solder iron just stick it in/on the tube for awhile. Still takes pliers and pressure though.

[stelerzman]

Heating the tube is the way to go. If you have a good wattage solder iron just stick it in/on the tube for awhile. Still takes pliers and pressure though.

That was my idea, thanks.

[srislash]

I did my old 45" Dumas with Dremal grind wheels around the tube as there was too much epoxy around the tube and too old. Not to mention huge tube.

[stelerzman]

Good info, thanks. I'll try it this weekend.:blush:

[stelerzman]

Will the 90° brass fitting for the motor cooling jacket fit a rudder?

[stelerzman]

Wohoo, I finally got the stuffing tube out.:banana: It took more than I thought but it's out.

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[stelerzman]

It's a good thing I removed the stuffing tube because it would have failed in the near future, see photo below.

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[srislash]

You should be able to clean up all that hardware there. Sharpen the rudder, maybe polish it all up.

[stelerzman]

Yep, it's all on the to do list after painting. I'm hoping to start spraying today.:rockon2:

[stelerzman]

Can I use piano wire to make the steering link?

[srislash]

Can I use piano wire to make the steering link?
How big or small is the piano wire? You can sleeve it if it is too flexy.

[stelerzman]

:bounce:

[stelerzman]

Anyone care to share the proper painting order for light and dark colors on the outside of a boat???

Thank in advance.

[srislash]

I generally do my light body colour first then darker highlights over top. Then pinstripes if necessary .

[lenny]

I like to use the numbers. :bounce:

[stelerzman]

I like to use the numbers. :bounce:

WTH does that meen????:confused1:

[stelerzman]

News flash, I decided to hold off on the painting until I have the hardware all installed.
If your asking, I'm making a lot of the parts. Strut bracket and mount, motor mounts and turn fin and mount. I'll post some pic's tomorrow.

[srislash]

Ingenuity... I likes it. :thumbup:

[stelerzman]

Ingenuity... I likes it. :thumbup:

Wait til you see the pic's, I have roughly 7 hours in planning, cutting ,shaping and fitting. I still have more work to do but things are looking good.:bounce:

[srislash]

They do eat up the time, I haven't even kept track of time on my current build : http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?44001-The-quot-Bling-Rocket-quot-build

[stelerzman]

I'll be sure to check it out.

[stelerzman]

Anyone know where to buy plastic bushings for the rudder? I'm in need of a set.
The id and od is 5mm & 6mm. Thanks in advance.:bowdown:

[srislash]

Check K&S. They have metric tube and perhaps a couple of the sizes put together would make your bushing. They don't have to be plastic. Bushings would be better. Too bad it isn't 4mm-5mm, I have a few strut bushings in that size. Mmm, maybe MTC or MBP would have 5-6mm bushings.

[stelerzman]

Thanks for the offer and heads up.:thumbup1:

[srislash]

I looked at MBP and Joe has brass tube 5mm ID and 6mm OD. Not sure if it is K&S though being in Germany.
Perhaps in the scale boats such as Cornwall boats, may have plastic bushing for rudder/shafts. Aztec too. Missing my bookmarks on my laptop for easy links, sorry bud.

[stelerzman]

I looked at MBP and Joe has brass tube 5mm ID and 6mm OD. Not sure if it is K&S though being in Germany.
Perhaps in the scale boats such as Cornwall boats, may have plastic bushing for rudder/shafts. Aztec too. Missing my bookmarks on my laptop for easy links, sorry bud.

Thanks for looking srislash, I really appreciate it.

[stelerzman]

Good news, I stopped in my local Ace Hardware and found some flanged bushing that will work.

[srislash]

Excellent. Probably dirt cheap too hey.

[stelerzman]

Damn close, 25 cents each without shipping and delivery times.

[stelerzman]

Now that I have the transom stripped of hardware I can start making the bracket to extend the strut.
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here is the beginning of the bracket, a little fine tuning and trimming to do before it's done.
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These are ready to be cleaned up and the next pic is of the test fit.

[dasboata]

I would get the engine rails out of there, and clean up that messy epoxy, you can use a dremel and a reinforced cut off wheel, to cut the inside or the rail it is attached to the bottom of the boat with Fiberglass you need to cut the F/G , where the rail meets the bottom get the inside done then bend them back and cut them with a knife for the epoxy you can use some heat and a puddy knife

[stelerzman]

What is the pro's and con's of removing the rails? IMO they strengthen the hull, that's why I left them in.
Thanks.

[stelerzman]

:noidea:

[srislash]

I would leave em. I even added front rails that go up to support the deck in both my Bling and my 35" DF.

[dasboata]

What is the pro's and con's of removing the rails? IMO they strengthen the hull, that's why I left them in.
Thanks.
Loosing a pound or usless weight that boat will be plenty strong with no rail and that set up !! not no SAW boat plus it is a ugly mess !

[stelerzman]

That's what paint is for, right?

[Fella1340]

Perhaps a nice sanding job to pretty it up inside?.

[srislash]

Everybody has to have one boat that has been there, done that beater that always run when you toss it in. Scars and all. LOL

[Fella1340]

I just couldn't resist throwing it in! Get her together and run it like you stole it!

[stelerzman]

That's already on the list. Thanks for the suggestion.

[stelerzman]

All the external hardware is complete, just need to clean them up and start on the inside.
I got some parts today, cooling jacket and coupler. I'll start on the motor mount tomorrow. I'll post some pic's when it's done.

[stelerzman]

I started making the flooding tube for the stuffing tube. Here is the pre assembled pic's.

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[stelerzman]

The flooding and stuffing tubes are ready to be installed, I'll be getting around a 1/2 an inch of travel in the stuffing tube for the strut adjustment. This is going to work out great concidering the the strut was mounted right up the the back of the boat. Here are some alignment pic's.

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I'll post pic's when it's been set to show the benefits of the flood tube for the strut adjustability. This will be a great benefit to this build.:thumbup:

[stelerzman]

Here's what the flooding tube will look like in the boat once installed.

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[stelerzman]

Update: I painted the flooding tube black. The motor mount is complete and installed along with the motor. I had to make some tool so I could drill holes in the rails to bolt up the motor mount. I'll post some pic's later.

[srislash]

:popcorn2:

[stelerzman]

Sorry, the pic's on my tablet suck, I've been trying to transfer better pic's from my phone to my desktop and they don't like each other. WTF, this is CRAP. I'll have to pull the micro sd card and use a reader to transfer, that means tomorrow because I can't seam to find at the moment.:ThumbsDown01:

[srislash]

I hear ya, I've been trying to do things with the iPhone since my laptop croaked. It can be frustrating.

[stelerzman]

Rigjt back at cha, I still have a lp but it's a time consuming process uploading then downloading then uploading again.

[stelerzman]

I found the card reader and pulled the pic's from my phone, all 648 of them. Not all were of the boat. Here are some to give you an idea as to where I stand.

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I'll get more up soon.

[stelerzman]

Here is the tools I made to drill into the wood rails. I started by using a body reamer and when that took to long, this Idea came to mind.

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These handles I had ordered from HK awhile ago and a rarely used them until now, They make access easier and will be in my tool box.

[srislash]

Ah, there is that ingenuity again:thumbup1:

[stelerzman]

Thanks, hopefully more progress will be made today along with more pic's.:Praying:

[stelerzman]

This next thing I had to make was a servo/ receiver tray, it didn't come out as planned but working on the revision. That will be done today along with pic's.

Here is the V1.

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As you can see in the 2nd pic, it's right inline with the linkage which means I have to move it towards the flooding tube like in the last pic..:doh: No biggie'.

[stelerzman]

Oh, by the way. How do you guy's find the balance point? I tried it on a piece of 3/4" wide block of wood, but I feel it's not that accurate because it has a wide surface to rest on. How about a paint stir stick?

[lenny]

I just use a boat stand and try to get it to seesaw and balance on the end edges of the stand.
It looks like the ends of your cells will be setting at the motor mount or at back of the motor for CG.

[stelerzman]

Ok, thanks lenny.

[stelerzman]

I finished up alot of the tedious fabing and will post pic's tomorrow. I also put the boat in my pool to check for leaks, wel l I found one, and will fix it in the morning. Next on the list is to break out the soldering iron. That's gunna take up a few hours.

[stelerzman]

I haven't updated this thread because I've been working very hard and long hours getting it ready for the first run, which was today. I have everything set up and now comes the tuning process. I did get some video of the first runs I made and will post up the links after there on YouTube. I will also post up some current pic's of my set up and all the particular info soon.
Had a good time and can't wait to get her dialed in and painted, updates very soon.

[stelerzman]

It's update time. I'll be post alot of pic's throughout the day. Here we go.

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These are the esc mounting pad.

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The flooding/stuffing tube setup alignment and marking the location for install.

[lenny]

:tiphat:
And some video's to I hope. :popcorn2:

[stelerzman]

This is the f/s tube set, I used marine tex because I already had it. I've used it before on other projects and it worked well, Very Well.

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Next is the servo and rx plate, I made it larger for a place to mount a gps. I used the rails as a mounting point to help stiffen up the boat. I drilled 4 undersized hole to make sure I didn't strip out the rails.

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I planed on using marine tex on the rear motor mount but decided against it because I believe a little flexibility would be better, so I used Amazing Goop for this application. It holds extremely well, yet has a little give to it. It's a great product.
This is finding the correct location.

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[stelerzman]

:tiphat:
And some video's to I hope. :popcorn2:

Yes, I did get 4 videos, I'll post the links up sometime today.

[stelerzman]

Question for you experianced builders, what's a good weight for a 32" mono hull with a 4074 motor and a 180a esc while running 4 or 6 cell? :noidea: Thanks for your input.

[lenny]

What 32" mono hull are you talking about, This one ?
What does it weight with out any cells in it ?

I do not think to much weight is that big of a deal,
Because most racer end up adding weight to help keep the boat handling good and to also keep it on the water.
I have found with most of modding and testing for speeds and handling that added weight helps.
Right now the total weight for my modded to FE 36"SW is 6.5lbs with the T120a esc and 4074 2000kv and no cell in it,
And with two 5s 5000mah packs it is about 9lbs.
by adding some weight to the setup helped with this hull,
When I was testing it for higher speeds to keep it on the water.
And also helps for better handling in heavier chop to.

[stelerzman]

The mono hull I have was a gas boat made my "Blake" it's the only info I have on the boat. If you look back at my first post you'll see what she looks like, it is a shallow V. She's sitting around 8lbs, 6ozs with 4 cell and 9lbs with 6 cell batteries.. I'll get the video links up shortly, the video is without the added weight. My cog was 8.75" from the outside of the transom.
Now she's at 9.6" from the outside of the transom, ill get more testing done tomorrow and see how she responds.

[lenny]

What props did you test so far with hull ?
And what motor is in the setup 4082 1500kv ?
Or is it a 4074 but what kv ? :noidea:

[stelerzman]

What props did you test so far with hull ?
And what motor is in the setup 4082 1500kv ?
Or is it a 4074 but what kv ? :noidea:

Sorry, I was wrong, the motor is a Turnigy 4082 1500kv, The first run was with a Prather 220 @ 33.7mph and the last run was with a Octura m445 @ 36.3mph. All runs so far have been on 4 cell.

[stelerzman]

Here is video #1 Please don't laugh tooo much.:doh:


https://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id=6fo7JaxqPH4&video_referrer=watch

[stelerzman]

Video #2, after correcting the issues. The boat was attacked by a pissed off or scared fish.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hJD4TNq5Lk

[stelerzman]

Video #3.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hT6InyGxF68

[lenny]

Ok it did not look bad.
Post some pictures of the boat as if it is ready to hit the water with cells in place.
Also pictures of the hardware to try and see how it is set at to a level surface,
Like setting on a flat table.
Did you get any temp reading yet ?
What are the trim tabs set at from the bottom of the hull ?
And also what is the strut set at from the bottom of the hull ?

[stelerzman]

All I can tell you as of now is nothing got over 100°, also all the runs were on the same pair of batteries.
Ill get you the other info asap. Thanks for your help lenny.

[srislash]

Looks pretty good so far. For a maiden it consider coming back with everything intact and running a success.

[stelerzman]

If you've seen the vid's, it's very obvious I'm extremely happy with results.
Only thing I'm concerned with is stability. I'm sure I'll conquer that after some tuning.

[lenny]

Hey I just saw the video with the lack of lubrication on the flex shaft, :lol:

You try that at home in the bed room and you will be in the dog house for sure. :hide:

Also on my 36"SW you need to drive it like a big old cadillac in the turns,
Or it will spin right out on you.
If you have a p230 prop I would try that on it,
Because that was one of the best props used on mine for speed tests.

[stelerzman]

Sorry for the delay, here is the last video from Sunday.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRxVGMCl2UM


As of now, I'm extremely happy with the performance. I pray that I get to test her out tomorrow on 6 cell.
Rest assured video will be taken and posted. Thanks to everyone that has given there input and suggestion. :bowdown:

Best forum EVER.:bounce:

[stelerzman]

Ank y
Hey I just saw the video with the lack of lubrication on the shaft, :lol:

You try that at home in the bed room and you will be in the dog house for sure. :hide:

Also on my 36"SW you need to drive it like a big old cadillac in the turns,
Or it will spin right out on you.
If you have a p230 prop I would try that on it,
Because that was one of the best props used on mine for speed tests.

All I have is mostly Octura props, there on a trial basis because there not mine. I'm very luck to have a friend with a very helpful nature.
Once I'm able to get back out on the water I'll know what props to purchase from OSE.

[stelerzman]

Hey I just saw the video with the lack of lubrication on the shaft, :lol:

You try that at home in the bed room and you will be in the dog house for sure. :hide:

Also on my 36"SW you need to drive it like a big old cadillac in the turns,
Or it will spin right out on you.
If you have a p230 prop I would try that on it,
Because that was one of the best props used on mine for speed tests.

I hear ya lenny, I can't believe that I forgot to double check that very important detail. It was very scarry when I opened the hatch and smelt, saw smoke. My heart dropped to the ground. Thank GOD everything was good to go. The problem was I didn't tighten the flex cable tight enough. I'm ecstatic it was a simple fix and nothing was damaged.

Pray for me tomorrow works out because I really want to see her scream on 6 cell.

[lenny]

Ok see if he has any three blades to try than.
Because I love three bladed props on mono's and that is what I am using now on the 36"SW,
It is a x646/3 and it helps it run a lot smoother and still have good speed and run times to.
Also the three blades help a lot with torque roll to from my testing with them on mono's.

Also I saw where your packs are setting in the hull in the video,
Try moving them back even with motor mount plate where it bolts to the motor.
It was hard to tell from the video,
But it looked like it was running just a little wet and may have been bow steering a little from it.
It also looked like you could move the strut up 1/8" and see how it handle like that.

[srislash]

Ok see if he has any three blades to try than.
Because the prop I am using now on the 36"SW is a x646/3,
And it helps it run a lot smoother and still have good speed and run times to.

The 646/2 that I have burns the most amps but produces the best speed on my 35"DF. A three blader eh, Mmm. Better get one on the wish list.

[lenny]

I have no idea what amps some of my setups are pulling in the boats that I have been modding and testing,
Other than going by the temps that they are running at when testing them.
And so far that is working out pretty good for me,
But it would be really nice to know what amps I am pulling in setups and on what props to.

[stelerzman]

I just took a look in the prop box and the only 3 blade prop is aluminum and is stamped as an Octura 437/3. Does this make sense?

Is this a prop I should try???????????????? Fyi, I do have a stock plastic prop for an Aquacraft UL-1 but I believe it's too small.

[lenny]

Yes, It's just a x437/3 and way to small.
And no on the ul1 prop it is a lifting prop for hydro hulls.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/propeller-chart.php
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?27946-Found-list-of-prop-descriptions-somewhere.......&highlight=list

Stay with X4 with very low pitch for now and sizes x444 up to x448,
A x5 or x6 will be more pitch and more load to the setup.
What other two blade props do you see in the box ?
Take a picture.

Your props p220 = 43.7mm (1.72") 2.6" pitch.
m445 = 45mm (1.77") 1.4x1.77=2.478"

[stelerzman]

This is what's in the prop box, Octura-M545, M645. Octura-X442, X445, X447, X450, X645. There are 3 composite/ plastic prop that are K48, K51, and K54. As you can see I have a few to choose from for testing.:confused2:
What do I pass on and which do I bolt on and pull the trigger???

[lenny]

Yes try those props X645, X445, X447, k48, X450,

But stay with the x445 first and try what I told you to trim it out first.

And keep a check on the temps, Than if is running good and temps are good move up to the x447 and so on.

[srislash]

Could even try the 545,the x6 series have generally too much pitch for a mono causing it to roll or pitch to one side. Just thought I'd throw the explanation out there. It does all depend on the setup.

[stelerzman]

Thanks guys, weather is looking really good today. I'll be heading out after I look at the setup and make a small adjustment. As I stated before my cog is now at 9.6" with the batteries along side the motor. I have 4, 2 cell batt. And 2, 3 cells. I'll run her in the 4 cell config for now until she's running better and smoother.

Lenny, what is a 36" SW
srislash, what is a 35" DF
I'm curious to know for research. Thanks.



More pic's and video throughout the day.

[srislash]

Lenny's is a 36" ProBoat Shockwave.
Mine is a 35" Delta Force hull. As sold In the store here.

[stelerzman]

:doh: Thanks.

[stelerzman]

More pic's. I had to make some soldering jigs to save time and they worked great.

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My new soldering tip.

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Bullet plug holder for 6mm plugs.

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Wire holder, it clamps down on the wire to keep it from moving around.

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All the tools I made was worth the time to make, it'll save me time in the long run.

[stelerzman]

Next up is the rudder bushings I made.

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Old bushings

108960
Old and new.

108961

108962
I'm sure your all aware but I have to mention that with this size bushings I had to drill out the rudder bracket a little to get the new bushing to fit.
Everything is extremely smooth, no binding at all.

[stelerzman]

Soldering up the esc.

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108964

108965

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The motor.
108967

[stelerzman]

Hey lenny, here are pic's of the back of my boat. Hope this helps.

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LMK what you guys think. Thanks.:Peace_Sign:

[lenny]

Shawn,
DF35.
I could not find any pictures of your boat.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=KD--YMlEOPA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=to30Etuwpl4

My,
SW 36" Modded to FE.
And a picture of what it could look like,
If I make it look nice some day.
108970


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ufp1qtvQias

In this one,
I was looking at some nice boobs on a jet ski instead where my boat was going at the end. :bounce:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=wggEQC0IUP4

[srislash]

Thanks Len, I am waiting at the lake waiting for my fishing bud WITH my DF :-)

That all looks good to me Steler. Good thinking with the jig. I really need to do that for my 2p plugs.

[lenny]

Boy that first picture of the prop is very scary, :unsure:
But I guess if it working for now it can not be to bad.
The trim tabs are very long on it,
I would bend them up 1/16" from where they are.
The strut looks pretty level and I would keep it level with the bottom of the hull but move it up 1/8",
And that will put more prop in the water and should run a little more stable at higher speeds.
When you shoot the next video's try to just run the boat with nice long runs left to right in the middle of the pond,
So we can see how it is riding on the water better at good speeds.

[lenny]

Sorry, :tiphat:
Also mark it before you move anything.
It just makes things easier to keep track of down the line when testing new setups.


No problem you have some fun but keep it right side up. :Peace_Sign:
I will be running a little tomorrow most likely,
But I need to solder some 5.5 on some cells I just picked up.
Also need to cut some wood down to size for wood stove before it starts getting to cold hear.

[lenny]

The second picture is good,
But it would be better if it was even with the prop to see the hardware settings better.
Instead of looking up at it.

[stelerzman]

So a level pic of the hardware? Is that what your asking?

[lenny]

Yes.

[stelerzman]

Ok, check back in 5 min. or so.

[stelerzman]

How are these?

108976

108977

108978

108979

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I can take more if need be, just LMK.

[stelerzman]

More pic's of the build, these are risers for the battery tray so I can move the straps to better hold the batteries.

108982

108983
Here is the battery tray.

108984
Both sides done and installed, the notch is there so I can get to the lock nut on the motor mount.

The all important water leak test. PASS.
108985
She floated for 3 or 4 min. with no leaks.:w00t:

[stelerzman]

Guess what I found in my old camera bag?:spy: I totally forgot I had It. I'm headin' out to the lake for a little testing session.

You'll find out If things go my way.:Praying:

[stelerzman]

Damn it, wouldn't you know. My plan ran into a steel wall. 1/2 way to the lake I got a phone call that totally changed my plans.
Tomorrow is another day.

[lenny]

The pictures are much better,
Try what I had posted before for the setting with the trim tabs and strut adjustments.

From the picture the strut does not look level, And it looks like it has some negative adjustment to it.
So that would push the bow down and lift the transom up and make it run wet.

I also would try running with out the big turn fin on the back,
It look like it could be adding a lot of drag but not sure.
Down the line I would look for a pair of better ones the would have more adjustments to them.

[stelerzman]

I'll all your advice and apply them once I'm able to see the results. Tomorrow looks promising and will post up the results.

Thank you lenny.

[srislash]

The pictures are much better,
Try what I had posted before for the setting with the trim tabs and strut adjustments.

From the picture the strut does not look level, And it looks like it has some negative adjustment to it.
So that would push the bow down and lift the transom up and make it run wet.

I also would try running with out the big turn fin on the back,
It look like it could be adding a lot of drag but not sure.
Down the line I would look for a pair of better ones the would have more adjustments to them.
Yep:iagree: that turn fin can be trimmed down for sure. Try without and see how it corners. They just make the boats carve those incredible tight corners that aren't scale by any means. You may find it fine without. I would say up on the strut as well.

[stelerzman]

Thanks guys, I hope I have ample time to test all ideas you have recommended. Rest assured I'll give you my opinion once I get her on the water and see how she likes your recommendations.

[stelerzman]

Lenny, what style of turn fin would you recommend?
Also, would a double TF work to my advantage?

[stelerzman]

Do you guys recommend 8cell with my current Equiptment?????

[lenny]

Lenny, what style of turn fin would you recommend?
Also, would a double TF work to my advantage?

Yes, Something like these would work very well for that hull.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80060


Also something like these trim tabs would work nice to.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80070
But your stock ones well do the trick,
Their like the stock ones that came on my 36"SW and they do fine.

I do not think that hull will handle 8s to well or the motor,
4s, 5s, and may be 6s tops.
But I could be wrong about that,
We need to see how it can handle 4s and 5s first.

[stelerzman]

Ok, thanks for all the good info, I'll do some more testing and tuning and see where she goes.

[srislash]

Do you guys recommend 8cell with my current Equiptment?????
Looking for more speed already?:unsure:

[stelerzman]

Not really, just thinking. :drool: I found some really good prices on 4 cell 5000mah nano's on HK.

[lenny]

How is the water flow on the setup ?
It is very hard to see anything from the video's,
And the esc water lines looked a little bit restricted from the pictures.
Also did you do a flip test on the hull to see how much water get in the hatch yet ? :sinking-guy:

[srislash]

Go easy Len. One thing at a time. :hornets_nest:

[lenny]

6s, 8s, :flame42:

Better to think about this stuff now than swim all the time later. :popcorn2:

[stelerzman]

The cooling lines do there job and work correctly.
As for the flip test, haven't done that yet. I can tell you she'll do a 180 nicely.

[stelerzman]

6s, 8s, :flame42:

Better to think about this stuff now than swim all the time later. :popcorn2:

So you don't think my motor can handle 6 cell?

[stelerzman]

First video of the day.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtRa-W1prsE&feature=youtu.be

All setups the same, before any changes.

[srislash]

What are them orbs that keep jumping out at you? What a PITA, LOL.
Is there a course there or swimming?

It seemed fairly smooth there running. Not much bounce,

[stelerzman]

There buoys for the sail boat club that damn near owns the lake. We've talked and there very hesitant on giving us usable info on the sail boats. Not a big deal to me, but it's a bunch of inconsiderate group of guys.
Anyway, I gathered a "boat load" of info today along with videos. They'll be posted tomorrow.

[stelerzman]

BTW, thanks for the suggestion on removing the turn fin, with the steering and rudder I have, I didn't miss it. AT ALL.:bowdown:

[stelerzman]

I'm working on editing the video from yesterday, there's a lot of footage and no way I'm going to post all of it. I'm cutting them down to save upload time. They should start popping up soon, so stay tuned.:cool2:

[stelerzman]

Here is one of the videos, The others are still working.

https://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id=Tu9RhfdXClA&video_referrer=watch
This is lenny's suggestion.

[stelerzman]

Here's another.

https://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id=5mlvVZnLsmw&video_referrer=watch

[Southwest]

Guess what, i signed up for u-tube and can't get in to see video.

[lenny]

Hear you go,
I only could see the first one in post #164 from hear.
And than just looked in hear at the newest ones at the top. http://www.youtube.com/user/npbcrawlerz/videos

And the blooper of the day. :rofl:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=6fo7JaxqPH4

[stelerzman]

I just tried to view the videos and not sure what the problem is but I'll make sure to get it corrected.

[stelerzman]

http://m.youtube.com/user/npbcrawlerz/about


Try going here to watch the videos until I can correct the problem. Thanks.
Make sure you cange the quality to HD.

[lenny]

Here is one of the videos, The others are still working.

https://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id=Tu9RhfdXClA&video_referrer=watch
This is lenny's suggestion.

I am just looking at the new video's you did from shore,
So how did you have the boat setup after are suggestion ?

Also did you gain or lose any speed speed ?

In two of the video's it aired out and had a little wawa or bounce to it,
And than in the third video it was not doing the bounce any more.

You should also try shooting video's like this,
It work pretty good and gets easier the more you do it.
Just do not look at the screen and drive,
with this you just do a point and shoot and follow the boat with the tx.
I just can not learn how to zoom and drive the boat yet doing it this way. :lol:

109106109107109108109109

[stelerzman]

:rofl: I had an issue binding the rx to the tx which threw off my concentration. That's what took my focus away from greasing the flex shaft and tightening the coupler. Oh well, all worked out in the end.
My set up in the later videos with the bouncing was, strut up 1/8" and no turn fin. After I realized that setup wasn't working I tried raising the trim tabs up1/16". Well that didn't work either, so I set the trim tabs down 1/8" and reset the strut down 3/16". This is my current setup and she seams to like it. The only other adjustment that I have made is battery placement, which can range from 1 to 2 inches forward of my base placement. I still have about 2" of space for the batteries to be placed forward.
So far my temps have be low, with the m445 at 39.2 mph the hottest thing is the motor at 102°. Then I put on a X445, temps stayed the same with a speed of 39.6 mph
Today was a bit better with a X447, motor temps rose slightly to 103° at 41.5 mph. I'm sure the winds didn't help out to much but she seams to glide across the water most of the time.

lenny, I did try your camera mounted to the tx and I missed most of the run, I'm sure with more practice I'll get the hang of it. For the time being I'll set up a stationary camera. !

Just for everyone info, I'm still testing the boat on 4 cell, I have yet to run her on 5 or even 6 cell. All this will come in time, when I can run her and not be worried that something will go wrong. I'll start adding more voltage when I'm more comfortable with her.:bounce:

[stelerzman]

http://youtu.be/VQJQSVGYWl0

Here is a video from today. FYI, the date stamp is WAY off, I haven't been able to fix it, which is a bummer. Any way, here's the link. I hope it works correctly. By the way lenny, in this video I slipped at the ramp and dropped the boat in the water upside down which tested your question on how much water gets in a roll over. The answer is not very much, only an ounce or two at the max. A friend of mine suggested I install some pieces of sponge in the rear of the boat to hold any water that may get in. It worked very well, it keeps the water from sloshing around. It is a great idea and works.

[srislash]

You got the idea Steler. Start easy, get confident in your parts/build,then,,, run it like you stole it:bounce:

[lenny]

41.5 with x447 nice, :tongue_smilie:
I do the sponge thing with most of my boats to.
Also I like doing most of my testing on low voltage first to,
Because you can see how the boat handles better as I tweak and fine tune and adjust the setting each time.
Than after it running nice and smooth I start adding more fuel to the fire and adjust CG of cells if needed.

[stelerzman]

Thanks guys, looks like I'm on the right.track.

[stelerzman]

I'm hoping to have enough time today to check the bootom of the hull, straight and true. If all works out I'll be able to get some color on her. The bottom of the boat is real rough, there is still some old paint that didn't come off with the wet sanding.

[stelerzman]

Here's something that has worked out, I put regularmasking tape on the bottom of the hull and it pulled the old paint off rather easily. So I'm going to use this trick to get all the paint off. I'll update as soon as the paint is completely removed.

[stelerzman]

A little update, I started making a set of trim tab top plates to make adjusters. I'll post some pic's when there done. Also getting ready to clean up the hull.

[stelerzman]

Trim tab adjusters are done. They turned out great, not as fancy as the sets sold on OSE, but they'll do the job.
Anyway, I have a little more polishing to do to make them shine. I'll finish that up tonight and post some pic's tomorrow morning.

[stelerzman]

Here are some teaser pic's.

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I'm almost finished polishing the tabs and adjusters. It's taking longer than expected due to the rough shape the aluminum was when I started. I'll have it completed tomorrow.:tongue_smilie:

[srislash]

Looks good. At least with the space between surfaces and two set screws you can taper the the trim surface a bit.

[stelerzman]

Thank you Shawn, I took a look at the ones sold here and when with it.
I'll get the finished product pic's posted soon.

[stelerzman]

Here are the final pic's of the trim tab adjusters I made and now polished up, along with polished trim tabs.

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109264

109265

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The only thing I need now is some low profile lock nuts, I'll pick them up later today at Ace Hardware.
:rofl: I just love making stuff.:rofl:

[lenny]

The look pretty, :tongue_smilie:
But what, You did not make any turn fins yet ? :bounce:
You where having to much fun polishing and milking that job. :lol:

[stelerzman]

I just finished making a set of smaller l/r turn fins. What do you guys think? Will they work?

109272

109273
I still have to make the brackets to mount them to the transom.:bounce: That should be relatively easy.

[stelerzman]

The look pretty, :tongue_smilie:
But what, You did not make any turn fins yet ? :bounce:
You where having to much fun polishing and milking that job. :lol:
WOW.:ohmy:
Looks like some one can read minds.:moon::thumbup:

[stelerzman]

:spy:
109279
:hornets_nest:











I've been a little busy.:tt2:

[lenny]

I think they should work,
How long are they ?
I had made a basic set of trim tabs and turn fin's,
When I was first modding my Rio ep to brushless few years back.

109274109275109276

This was how the turn fins came stock from Pro boat on my Shockwave in the first picture,
Than I modded them the right way in the second picture and they do the job ok.
109280 109278
The wrong way. :noidea: The right way. :olleyes:

[stelerzman]

Nice work lenny. I just finished up the cutting the TF brackets. I'll get some picks up as soon as I get the bracket and fin bolted together.
The fins are 2.25" long.

My only question is" at what angle are the fins mounted". I ask because I see you have them mounted two different ways. I'm referring to the last two pic's you posted. Thanks for the info.:thumbup1:

[steveo]

Mount the bracket parallel with the dead rise angle. They should make a right angle 90*

[stelerzman]

Just so I understand correctly, 90° from the bottom of the boat where the fin intersects???

[stelerzman]

Ok, so I have the turn fin and mount done, with exception of polishing. Here are the pic's.

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109288

109289
As you can see, I should have plenty of adjustability with this setup. After the paint is cured, sanded and cleared, I'll mount the fin and bracket then post pic's.
I think this is the BEST part of building anything. Not just throwing money at a project, but actually making the parts myself. It's kinda ironic that I was able to make the parts in a day rather than waiting a week or more in some cases for parts to arrive.

I hope I didn't piss anyone off, It's just my opinion.:zip-up:

[lenny]

I do the same thing most of the time with anything that crosses my path, :tiphat:
Because I hate to see anything wasted and I try to mod it in to something that works again. :beerchug:

[stelerzman]

Thank you lenny, I'm just happy I have the ability to save a bit of cash to put towards more important items such as motors and esc's, things I can't make.

[srislash]

Find look good. You want them 90 degrees to the ride surface when cornering.

And I guess I left out a use for them in the earlier post. They help carve those corners AND stop the boat from spinning out. You may have noticed I only put one fin on the Bling(mostly run a course) so I can attest to this.

[stelerzman]

:thumbup1: Thanks Shawn, I went ahead and made double TF's because I'm preparing for anything that may arise. Should a situation come up that I need to turn left to avoid and obstacle, I'll be covered.

I hope this doesn't happen, but just to be sure.:w00t:

[stelerzman]

I failed to mention that everything should be back together for another test run by this Saturday and I hope to catch the action on video via my new and improved TX/Camera mount. It's a bit off balance because the camera is mounted to the right side of the transmitter, I guess I'll see how it works out and you'll see via the angle I get.
I'll post some preliminary pic's of my setup in the morning.



DAMN, have I been busy, or what????????????:cursing: :tongue: :tongue_smilie:

[stelerzman]

:spy:
109279
:hornets_nest:











I've been a little busy.:tt2:
:huh:

[stelerzman]

Here are the pic's of the camera mount.

109293

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109295
I hope this setup works.:Praying:

[lenny]

We have seen how you drive already and you need all the help you can get, :tongue_smilie:
So you will need both of those turn fin's for sure. :hide:

And also I hope you are good with using a side arm, :tongue_smilie:
Because that is how you will be aiming with that tx cam mod.

Also just try not to look at the screen on the cam at all,
Use your peripheral vision especially when driving fast or you will end up on land with the boat.

But than again that would be a good blooper to see. :popcorn2:

[stelerzman]

Is my driving really that bad?:confused1: The main reason for the rx camera mount is so I can glance down at the screen to see if the boat is in the view finder. Rest assured, I know better then to watch a camera while driving anything fast.:tt2:

[lenny]

We shall see said the blind man. :hug1:

With mine on the left side of the tx I find my self shooting a little to far ahead of the boat some times,
If you look at some of my video's you will see what I mean.

You just need to find how to line up the tx and cam with the boat out on the water.
I just did a few test runs at home lining things up with the tx,
And getting a feel for where to follow the object in the foreground use a dog or something.

Also it will get a lot easier the more you do it,
And will become second nature to you like the tx is.


:lol:
Hey look I managed to hit this and I was not even videoing at the time it happen,
Dead center on the starboard side.
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And that really suck because I would of loved to have it for a good blooper. :bounce:

[srislash]

A few vids and you'll get it John. I run mine usually attached to TX. When I run a proper camera.

[stelerzman]

Did it jump out in front of you lenny? Jk. How much damage was caused?

The most important thing to remember is to point the tx/camera at the boat and follow. But that's the hardest thing to remember to do. I catch myself tring to play catch up. Oh well, I'll get it one day.:Praying:

[stelerzman]

A little update, the paint and clear coat is done and dry. I hope to put her all back together before Saturday so I can put her back in the water and more testing. I still have a few more props to test along with more voltage to run through the system.:lol:

[lenny]

Like I said,
Just aim it at the boat and follow it.
Use the tx like a side arm gun or radar gun.

Why yes it did !:iagree:

There is a video just before it happen in my 6s post of the pursuit.

I was trying to pass behind him doing about 35 mph and about 300' away for me,
Than I heard the big bang and he stood. :tiphat:
But no damage to the pursuit and just a small ding in his two week old boat,
He was cool about the whole thing.
So I worked on his prop that looked like it was ran over by a truck from hitting stump under the water,
The water is only about 6' deep at most and that boat was getting pretty beat up for only being two week old. :popcorn2:

[srislash]

Did it jump out in front of you lenny? Jk. How much damage was caused?

The most important thing to remember is to point the tx/camera at the boat and follow. But that's the hardest thing to remember to do. I catch myself tring to play catch up. Oh well, I'll get it one day.:Praying:

After going to edit a few vids only to find things 'out of frame' you get up to speed. I had a few. One was a complete 360 blow over with my Shocker that I planted and got to keep going with. Right on the front straight. Frame was just behind it.
Three of us were witness but sure would of liked to show it off.

[stelerzman]

Ok,.now you guys are really getting me going. I'll get some good practice in on following objects with the.rx&cam. So the next solo tests I should have a better grasp on the goal.

[lenny]

My problem is I just post what I shoot most of the time,
I have not taken the time to learn how to edit or do slow motion vids yet.
But I would like the learn to get the slow motion down,
Just to see how a boat is riding some times.
Jesse J does some very cool vids on hear like that.

[srislash]

109387

Just thought I'd show my getup here.

[stelerzman]

Hey lenny, try playing around with "wndows live movie maker" it's basic but has a lot of good features. Oh and it's free.

Srislash- looks good, if it works then even better.

[lenny]

Shawn I see you added a belt clip or hanger to the tx,
That is a good idea to free up the hands some.
And also help with getting the bigger boats in and out of the water a little easier,
I will do something like that to mine to make things easier in the field.

John thanks,
I will look into that free windows live movie maker.
Basic and free, That sounds like a good one for me.

[stelerzman]

Np lenny. Pick a short video to play with first to get the hang of it, this way you'll see the order in which to make a good vid. The longer the video is the more room is needed in the display screen. After you get it downloaded lmk If you have any questions. I also have a higher quality editing software, it has a boat load of features, but it'll cost ya some $$$.

[srislash]

Shawn I see you added a belt clip or hanger to the tx,
That is a good idea to free up the hands some.
And also help with getting the bigger boats in and out of the water a little easier,
I will do something like that to mine to make things easier in the field.

John thanks,
I will look into that free windows live movie maker.
Basic and free, That sounds like a good one for me.

That is what I used as well Len. Lots of features to play with but can be left simple. I like the caption feature best.
But then you'd know that from my vids, eh Lenny.

[stelerzman]

Just did a little research on free software and found this, it's interesting. http://www.desktop-video-guide.com/top-5-free-video-editing-software-review.html
Hope this helps.:banana:

[lenny]

Hey,
I was just looking at this 55" monster that is a little over priced for my taste.
Looks like it would need some transom and drive modding to have it handle better,
And also have it run with a little more speed out of it.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2055623

109559

[srislash]

Hey,
I was just looking at this 55" monster that is a little over priced for my taste.
Looks like it would need some transom and drive modding to have it handle better,
And also have it run with a little more speed out of it.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2055623

109559
BACK AWAY FROM MY BOAT LEN, LOL. Saw it the other day and had to go to the boat den to see if there was room, tempting, very tempting.

[lenny]

Yes, I have the same problem. :bounce:

As I look up and all around me and see a sea of boats. :doh:

But than I go up the ladder and though the hole in the ceiling into the roof rafters. :sneaky2:

And say to my self there is lots of room up hear for more stuff. :tongue_smilie:

[Fella1340]

Thats a nice looking old school style boat! It would be a nice addition to any collection. All your really getting a hull though and $275 seems a little high. That said, I would buy it if I had the money to. I keep an eye out for things like this but they usually have had a bad paint job or are beat up bad. I have seen a couple that were complete for the about the same money but had the above issues. The radio, motor and running gear being of no real use they were essentially a hull only boats to. I like it, if its a nice outside as it looks it may be worth a reasonable offer. I don't see it moving at that price.

[stelerzman]

I only wish I had the $$$. & the room. If I did she'd be on her way to me tomorrow.
Damn the bad luck, she's a beaut.

[srislash]

Yes, I have the same problem. :bounce:

As I look up and all around me and see a sea of boats. :doh:

But than I go up the ladder and though the hole in the ceiling into the roof rafters. :sneaky2:

And say to my self there is lots of room up hear for more stuff. :tongue_smilie:
I have the same back up space buddy. Unfortunately it is too low and the opening too small to squezze that up there. Mounting on the fireplace mantle is out as well. It would get me too many question from,er,umm, 'HER'. Hehe

[stelerzman]

Believe me, I would really love to get this boat, but I fear it would force a DEvorce.

[stelerzman]

Question, I want to run my boat on 5s. I have 2s and 3s nanos, both are 5000mah and 65c -130c batteries.
Both batteries are new, I purchased them at the same time. I've only run the 2s briefly maybe 5 or 6 times. Can this be done safely?
I assume that the 3s should be installed on the left side to help keep the boat more stable in the turns. Do I have this correct?:confused2:

Thanks guys.

[lenny]

Yes that should work fine,
Just run them in series and do a two minute run and check temps of everything.
I would say full run time max 4 minutes and see how many mah go back in at full charge.
What was the temp of your last runs on 4s ?

[stelerzman]

Thanks lenny, my last temps were 103° on the motor and everything else was 100° or under.

[lenny]

With the 5s you may see that your temps go down some with that setup,
Just run smart and have some fun and lube the flex shaft good this time.
Also do not forget to take some video's of it running from land in long straight lines left to right,
So we can see how well it is riding in the water and how much air gap is under the hull.

[stelerzman]

Gotcha:bounce: Rest assured from now on I'll double check the shaft.:doh: I hope to get out today, I have some things to do.

[stelerzman]

Update on paint and hardware.

109645

109646

109647

[srislash]

Paint looks great. Have a good run.

[stelerzman]

Thanks, I gave it the Krylon Touch. Lolol.

[stelerzman]

The video is done uploading in real time, I'm in the process of making a slow motion video to go along with the other one.
Both videos will be posted tonight.

[stelerzman]

I got to hit the lake today but had an issue, It seams the stuffing tube shifted in the flood tube, which pushed the stuffing in the coupler. It made a scary scound. Anyway, I did get some pretty good video and here is the link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39N3gmv1rLI&feature=youtu.be

Please post your thoughts, Thanks.:bounce:

[lenny]

The paint job looks very cool. :tiphat:
It has a good mean look to it,
And made me start thinking about something like this when I first saw it. :lol:

109664109665109666109667

[stelerzman]

Trust me, it looks better in pic's and vid's then in person. Thanks for the complement.

[srislash]

Well I would say a tad wet running yet. But about right for chop or race water. Looks good and stable.
So that stuffing tube? Was it glued into the strut?

[stelerzman]

Thanks, I thought she.ran very well. On the stuffing tube, not exactly.

[stelerzman]

Slo-mo video. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OXeU1MClNI4&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DOXeU1MClNI4

[stelerzman]

Is the slo-mo video playing correctly?

[lenny]

No it's not, :lol:
Because you posted the wrong one. :noidea:

This looks more like it I think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=JcKLmR1wVfk

Just looking over it now and I still think it is running a little wet.
What where the temps on 5s and how was it setup ?

Also the next vid's you do try taking them from down low at the dock. :tongue_smilie:
That will let use see under the boat as it go's by And where it is riding at on the hull,
If you stay on the throttle a little longer going past the dock to the right.

But please try not to do it as the sun is setting or we may go blind looking at it. :moon:


Slo-mo video. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OXeU1MClNI4&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DOXeU1MClNI4

[srislash]

But please try not to do it as the sun is setting or we may go blind looking at it. :moon:

This is getting hard to do right now Len. The sunset is a large part of the daylight right now. But alas, after Saturday the days start getting longer again :Praying:

[lenny]

No,
He do not get to the water till about 4 or 5 pm.

[stelerzman]

I completely agree with both.of you, also thanks lenny for embedding the correct video. If you guys think your being blinded by the super btight Sun, what does it look like from my stand point. Lenny was right about the time, I went out around 4:20pm. It w as the best chance.to run her and see where she sits and where I need to go to get her to really SCREAM.

[stelerzman]

By the way len, I tried to get the Vitale temps, unfortunately the gun died. Damnit.
Once I'm able to fix the flood/stuffing tube, I'll check everything.:banana:

[stelerzman]

Ok, she's running a little "wet" How do I resolve this issue?:confused2:

[srislash]

I would lower the prop in the water a bit. Just adjust strut down a mm or two. Start there