New to theUL-1 and boating.

[stelerzman]

Hi everyone, I just aquired a used UL-1 and I'm needing some solid advise. I have been reading a lot of threads and posts over the last few days and I'm wondering what is a realistic speed that I can expect with this type of hull? I understand it has it's limitations and I'm looking for some guidance as to where to start when I first launch the boat.
I do have the instruction book and it looks to be completely stock. The only thing I'm sure of is that the prop is plastic and it's 3 blades. I have verified the basic settings per the book and now I would like to know where do I go from there. I'll be taking it out this weekend for the first time.

Thanks in advance for any info you could send my way. I will be taking pictures and video to help answer any question.you may have.:thumbup:

[stelerzman]

I felt it necessary to post some pic's of my setup so you can see where I'm at. so on with the pic's. Please feel free to point out the things I need to adjust.
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[stelerzman]

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103136

From the pic's of the level app. it seems that the right side is lower then the left.:crying:
How is this issue resolved, and yes the table top is NUT's level. :rockon2:
I would like to know what my options are before this weekend so that I can correct this problem. Thanks guys.:thumbup:

[Doby]

Remember, it will only turn well to the right.
The stock prop sometimes has a hard time planning the boat..it may have to be tossed in with the throttle on full.
With some decent props, figure reliable speed in the upper 40's

[Heaving Earth]

Is it a problem? What problem is it causing? How level and perfect is your table?

[stelerzman]

Cool, Thanks Doby. I'll post the video and some pic's from this weekend to show where I'm at and see where I can go from there.

[stelerzman]

Dead nuts level. PERFECTLY LEVEL.
I'll be able to post up more info after this weekend. I was curious about my current setup before I took it out. Please see the pic's I posted and comment on how it looks. Thanks.

[jfrancisco892]

Are you planning on just running the boat for recreational use? If so, as long as you have fairly smooth water this boat is not a bad choice for a beginner. It was my first boat and I got into racing with it. If you plan on racing it I would recommend a custom purpose built hull such as an fe30, whiplash, phil thomas stealth etc. I would also recommend going through the boat and checking the alignment of the stuffing tube with the motor collet as it is pretty common for that to be out of alignment due to poor build quality. A hughey or upgraded flex cable is something I would also recommend as the aquacraft ones commonly have cold solders on the shaft flex cable joint and you will end up losing the prop with the shaft if the shaft is poorly made. If you have any questions with the hull or tuning options feel free to let me know as my dad and I have done many modifications to make it somewhat competitive in p-limited sport hydro racing and I have a good amount of experience with it. To answer your question regarding speed I would say mid 40s is realistic depending on the water conditions, setup, and propeller.

[stelerzman]

As of right now I'm just learning and hope to get more info and become a much better driver, thank you for the suggestions.

I do have a question that I haven't seen asked or posted
Does waxing the bottom of the hull help in anyway????? It's almost a no brainer if you really think about it, yet nothing recommended or suggested. Kind a weird to me, lmk what you guys think.

[SirBudman32]

No don't wax the bottom. On mine the bottom is scuffed. I have my strut set at 1 1/8" of table and then set level. I also put a air dam on it and made a big difference in the way it handles. I also did battery mod. Running a 42x55 3 bladed prop doing hi 40s maybe low 50.

[stelerzman]

So what's the logic behind not using wax ???

[SirBudman32]

Makes it to slick and water sticks, scuff it up and makes air bubbles for the boat to ride on.

[stelerzman]

Wow, thank you Budman. I just dug out the wax last night, looks like I'll put it back.

Another question I have is how much rudder swing is good and how much is too much, also which hole on the horn? Thanks again

[SirBudman32]

No problem. You can wax the top and sides if you want just not the bottom. As for the servo hone mine is on the 3rd one from the screw, and about 1/4'" of throw maybe a little more but it does not take much.

[stelerzman]

[QUOTE=Heaving Earth;518031]Is it a problem? What problem is it causing? How level and perfect is your table?[/QUOTE


I thought it should be level, even from side to side???? Is this normal??

[stelerzman]

No problem. You can wax the top and sides if you want just not the bottom. As for the servo hone mine is on the 3rd one from the screw, and about 1/4'" of throw maybe a little more but it does not take much.

Nice, thanks. I'll check it out.

[SirBudman32]

You can get a nice and straight piece of wood with some 500 grit sand paper and true them up if you want. Try to get a block that will cover both at the same time.

[stelerzman]

Cool, I'll do that. Any idea how thick the hull is in that area? I don't want to take too much off and make it a weak point.:tiphat:

[SirBudman32]

not sure.

[stelerzman]

I guess I'll just drill a hole in the bottom of both the sponsons and measure it, then repair it.

[wayne middlemiss]

warning they are very thin would be best to use light ply and filler.

[Heaving Earth]

Considering its a 3 point hydro, and the transom doesn't really ride in the water, what is the concern?

[stelerzman]

Considering its a 3 point hydro, and the transom doesn't really ride in the water, what is the concern?

As you stated" a 3 piont hydro". Then why is it that most of the info I'm getting kinda goes away from this factor. Thank you HE, your the first to post this very important info. I've talked to several local 1:1 boat builders with a " BOAT " load of knowledge and they are the only ones to hit on this piont.
Major " PROPS " to you Bro.

[stelerzman]

Another question, how accurate is this hull compared to a current 1:1 boat.
Also, any way to know the age of the boat I currently have??????


Thank you to everyone that has posted info for me to absorb and work with. You are all top notch people for helping the new guy. Major PROPS.

[stelerzman]

Well, the weekend is almost here, I can't wait.

When I measure the strut depth, which is 7/8" to the bottom of the drive cable sleeve. Is this the correct place ?
Thanks.

[Doby]

Probably not a bad place to start...but you will only find the true sweet spot once you run it and tinker with all the adjustments...remember, when you start tuning things, only do one thing at a time, that way if something works better (or worse) you will know what you did.

[Doby]

Another question, how accurate is this hull compared to a current 1:1 boat.
Also, any way to know the age of the boat I currently have??????


Thank you to everyone that has posted info for me to absorb and work with. You are all top notch people for helping the new guy. Major PROPS.

As to the age of your boat, the first release had some issue with the turn fin mounting area not being strong enough and cracking, also the controller had smaller capacitors installed and sometimes failed.

Post a pic of the controller, that will help determine if you have the older version or the newer version of the UL-1 (assuming that the controller is the stock one that came with the boat originally, and wasn't swapped out)

[stelerzman]

I
Ok, I'll leave it as is and see what happens. I've been in the RC world for about 5 years and quickly found out the importance of changing one thing at a time to see the difference. I've also learned that taking notes is very important. Come on weekend.:beerchug:

[stelerzman]

As to the age of your boat, the first release had some issue with the turn fin mounting area not being strong enough and cracking, also the controller had smaller capacitors installed and sometimes failed.

Post a pic of the controller, that will help determine if you have the older version or the newer version of the UL-1 (assuming that the controller is the stock one that came with the boat originally, and wasn't swapped out)

I'll post pic's of the controller later tonight, if I remember correctly it has a small cap and a long cap. I don't know what what this means but hopefully pic's will conf
erm the age and wether or not it a moded old or newer version.

Thanks.

[stelerzman]

Doby, you mentioned the turn fin mounting area, what about the fin itself? Should it be flat or curve under the boat? Mine s curved.

[Doby]

Curved.

[stelerzman]

Cool. Thanks.

[stelerzman]

I noticed the rudder is not 90° to the transom, does it need to be adjusted to 90°????

[stelerzman]

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Ok so here is the picture of the controller/esc.

[Doby]

That is the new version, so assuming it was stock with the hull, you should have the re-enforced turn fin mounting as well.

[stelerzman]

:thumbup1:

[stelerzman]

What do I use to scuff the bottom of the boat with? It's real slick and smooth, thanks.

[BHChieftain]

I really would not bother scuffing the hull-- just don't wax it. The actual effects of scuffing is debatable and if it does work we are talking about less than 1mph benefit-- hardly worth damaging the finish for sport running IMHO.

Chief

[stelerzman]

Thanks BHC. Much appreciated.

[stelerzman]

Fyi, I'm getting the boat all set up for tomorrows maiden run. Camera, video camera, lipo's all charged up. I hope everything goes well and I don't sink the Ul-1.
I'll post up my thoughts along with pic's and video.

Thank you to everyone that has given me help and info.

[BHChieftain]

Remember that it is a bit tricky to get on plane-- either toss it in and gun it, or give it a blip, and when the nose bobs up gun it.
Good luck on the maiden!
Chief

[stelerzman]

Well, I finally got it up on plane, after I pulled it from the weeds. Unfortunately I chewed up the prop really good.

[stelerzman]

Oh, by the way my temps are motor,129 & esc 109°.

[stelerzman]

Here's what I did to the prop.:doh:103402

[stelerzman]

I'm working on editing the video and should be done soon. Didn't get any pic's.:sad:

[SloHD]

Ouch. That is some pretty tough weeds.

[stelerzman]

Right, I'm torn on which one to get as a replacement. 2 stock or a metal one.

[Heaving Earth]

Metal

[stelerzman]

Metal

What are my options and where do I get them.:beerchug:

[Heaving Earth]

You can buy props here at OSE. They need to be balanced and sharpened tho.
The closest metal prop to the stock plastic one would be the octura x440 3 blade prop

[stelerzman]

:rockon2: Finally got the video done. Sorry about the poor quality but its all I had. Anyway, please fell free to share your suggestions, GOD knows I sure could use them.

http://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id=hBvP4m6zme8&feature=vm&ns=1

[stelerzman]

Here's a better shot of the prop.103420

[SloHD]

:rockon2: Finally got the video done. Sorry about the poor quality but its all I had. Anyway, please fell free to share your suggestions, GOD knows I sure could use them.

http://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id=hBvP4m6zme8&feature=vm&ns=1

Link brings me to my own uploads. :noidea:

[stelerzman]

You can buy props here at OSE. They need to be balanced and sharpened tho.
The closest metal prop to the stock plastic one would be the octura x440 3 blade prop

Thanks, if I go with a metal prop would I have to upgrade the stock drive spring????

[stelerzman]

I think I have the link corrected. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBvP4m6zme8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Let me know if it works. Thanks.

[Heaving Earth]

Looks good.
If by drive spring you mean flex cable, no. In fact nothing is needed, you just put the prop on and go, but again, it needs to be balanced and sharpened

[stelerzman]

Looks good.
If by drive spring you mean flex cable, no. In fact nothing is needed, you just put the prop on and go, but again, it needs to be balanced and sharpened

Ok, great. Yes, I meant to say flex cable.:doh: The guy with the Spartan knows how to sharpen and balance, so no big deal. Thanks.:thumbup:

[stelerzman]

Here is my experience from last Sunday. To start off, the first 3 attempts at getting the boat up on plane resulted in nose diving. I pulled the boat and adjusted the strut up all the way. I tried it 2 more times with no luck. A friend suggested that I add some weight to the rear of the boat so I taped a set of allen wrenches to the tube. I'm guessing about 5 or 6 oz of weight. After I pulled the boat out of the weeds, that I had to muscle through just to reach it, I added the weigh and tried again.
That's were I was able to get up on plane. I was very happy at that point considering the prop was mangled. Anyway, I have some props coming in and now I need to know what do I have to do to the boat to get it on plane without the added weight in the back.

[BHChieftain]

Here is my experience from last Sunday. To start off, the first 3 attempts at getting the boat up on plane resulted in nose diving. I pulled the boat and adjusted the strut up all the way. I tried it 2 more times with no luck. A friend suggested that I add some weight to the rear of the boat so I taped a set of allen wrenches to the tube. I'm guessing about 5 or 6 oz of weight. After I pulled the boat out of the weeds, that I had to muscle through just to reach it, I added the weigh and tried again.
That's were I was able to get up on plane. I was very happy at that point considering the prop was mangled. Anyway, I have some props coming in and now I need to know what do I have to do to the boat to get it on plane without the added weight in the back.

Hi,
Adding weight to the tail of the boat is not the right idea-- normally folks add weight to the nose--- the tail needs to lift and hover above the water when on plane, suspended by the prop-- when running only the sponsons should be touching the water. If the boat is going "WAH WAH WAH" and you don't see a constant spray of the rooster tail, that tells you the rear of the boat is bouncing on the water which is a no-no for hydros.

Take out the weight and try again-- this time, give it a quick blip which will push the nose under a little, and as the nose starts to pop back up, GUN IT FULL THROTTLE. You can't baby the boat onto plane, you have to gun it. Sounds scary but it works... once you are on plane, then you can slow down if you need to. This all assumes you have the strut set up in a usable position.

On the prop-- beryllium copper is best, but if you don't have someone who can s/b for you (note, beryllium copper is extremely toxic in particulate form, so you really need safety gear and a respirator to sharpen them), you can also go the alum. CNC route, or the graupner carbon filled props which are pretty good and don't need to be sharpened and balanced.

Here's a video of me starting up my hydro to give you and idea:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j96Z12PdVmc

FYI, this boat has the exact same power system as yours-- UL1 motor, aquacraft 60A ESC, 4S1P. I'm using an x442 in this video as my racing prop but that gets a bit hot for sports running-- for sports running with longer runtimes I go down to an m440 (2 blade).

Chief

[stelerzman]

Thanks for the info Chief, did you watch the video I posted? There's a link a few posts up.
Also, I don't see a link to your video, I'd really like to see it. I wasn't sure if I could put a 2 blade prop on the UL-1.

[BHChieftain]

Try it this way

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j96Z12PdVmc

[stelerzman]

:popcorn2::beerchug: Cool video, thanks Chief. Now I see what it should look like. Unfortunately mine doesn't have that much punch.:confused2: Maybe it's the prop, when I get it in I'll install and test.
I'm going to switch out the rx and see if maybe that cures the communication issue. If you saw my video, I got out of range twice.

[stelerzman]

Oh, check this out. I looked for some way to find an accurate speed of my UL-1 and after several options I check the Android app market and there's a GPS speedometer. This works very well, I tested it in my work vehicle and it's pretty accurate. I'll test it out this weekend and let you all know the results.

[BHChieftain]

Your damaged prop could make it hard. Try to fix that asap.

You can also throw the boat in the water with some forward momentum and go full throttle when it hits the water


Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk 2

[stelerzman]

What prop is on the hydro in the video?

[BHChieftain]

That is an x442, but runs hot--I keep it under 3:30 which is enough for 6 laps. It runs really well and cooler on m440 or x440. But not sure which prop is best for the UL1 hull. I just don't think you necessarily need a 3blader.

Chief

Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk 2

[stelerzman]

I could go with the 2 blade lifter prop, or is there another option??
Please explain he effects of a lifter prop, does it lift the front or rear of the boat?
Thank you.

[Heaving Earth]

Lifter props are good for hydros,because you want the rear of your ul-1 to ride on the prop. An excellent prop for the ul1 is a L40/57/3 grim prop. However it MUST be balanced and sharpened, and because grim props also contain titanium they're extremely difficult to do nicely.
The best overall props on the ul1 in my experience was the x440 and 40/57. For me anyways

[Heaving Earth]

Here's a vid of my Elam with x440/3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5iLPYnGv7w&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[stelerzman]

Sweet, thanks again for the info. I still don't know why my boat doesn't have the same " punch" as yours does. I hope to get my props soon, this way I'll know if that's the problem.

[stelerzman]

Here's a vid of my Elam with x440/3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5iLPYnGv7w&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Nice hydro, what is the mph????

[Heaving Earth]

Thanks 50

[stelerzman]

How did you get the reading????

[Heaving Earth]

A gps unit

[stelerzman]

I have a Tekin redline 7.5 turn bl motor, can I run it in the UL-1???

[stelerzman]

A gps unit
I looked into those, a little pricy for me.:crying:

[stelerzman]

I ordered some stuff from Kintec Racing, how are they for fast shipping???

[stelerzman]

Has anyone tried one of these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DANE-ELEC-DA-U332GSP-R-USB-3-0-SPORT-FLASH-DRIVE-32GB-Part-DA-U332GSP-R-/310519760190?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item484c6b853e

[BHChieftain]

I'm sure your damaged prop is cavatating which is why you have no power out of the hole

Chief


Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk 2

[stelerzman]

[QUOTE=BHChieftain;519699]I'm sure your damaged prop is cavatating which is why you have no power out of the hole

Chief


Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk 2[/QUOT

Oh I'm sure it is, I'm still waiting on my props.:censored:
Anyway, I just got back from the lake. I wanted to know the speed of the boat with the chewed up prop and was I shocked. I pulled a max speed of 40 mph. I couldnt believe it,

[stelerzman]

What can I expect with a new prop?

[stelerzman]

Which 2 blade prop should I get?
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-aqub9700
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-aqub9715
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-aqub9725
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-aqub9755
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-aqub9758

There are so many to choose from, I'd hate to buy one and not be able to use it. Thanks.:Peace_Sign:

[rc2266]

I used to use the m445 on mine ran great at 53mph with no problems with all stock electronics

[stelerzman]

I used to use the m445 on mine ran great at 53mph with no problems with all stock electronics

Ok, thanks for the tip.
What is the difference between 2 and 3.blade props? Better yet, what is the advantage of either? Thanks.

[stelerzman]

:confused1:

[stelerzman]

Has anyone heard of a "Blake" built V hull gas boat??? Ihave a chance to get my hands on one with out a canopy for free. Is it worth converting it to electric????

[stelerzman]

Parts are coming in, so I should have some upgrades done soon. I also have a HD camera on the way, so better quality videos are near.

[BHChieftain]

Regarding 2 blade vs. 3 blade-- I have 7 boats, 2 hydros. Once I tried a 3 bladed prop but did not really notice a difference-- it is really a hassle to sharpen and balance the 3 blade props, so unless you are going CNC I just don't think they are worth the extra hassle.

Chief

[stelerzman]

:thumbup1: thanks for the info.

[stelerzman]

Does anyone know why Kentic is soo slow in shipping? I know I should buy from OSE and I have , I just need stuff that OSE didn't have in stock.
Thanks.

[SloHD]

Sometimes he's fast, sometimes he's slow. You'll get your stuff, email him if its taking too long. He has a normal day job on top of the website. Do some searching around once and a while, there are multiple threads about kintec on this site.

[stelerzman]

Thank you for the info, I have emailed him on several occasions and he's yet to respond. Very poor communication if you ask me, especially sense I'm a first time customer. What a let down.

[tlandauer]

I can only speak from my experiences: I usually get items from Kintec real fast but I no longer get return e mails from him for the obvious reason that he is too busy. I have stopped e mailing him altogether, since I do all the research before hand and only buy from him if OSE doesn't have the item. There are different opinions on his service but if I know what to expect then I feel confident buying from Kintec.
I hope you get your issue sorted out, best of luck!
Just my $.02

[stelerzman]

Thank you. I guess I'll get him another week, if I don't get the BO items I'll contact Paypal.

[stelerzman]

I'll bedamned, I just received one of the two items that Kintec back ordered on me. Now I'm curious how long will it take to get the last item, another month??????:ThumbsDown01:
What is this guys problem????

[stelerzman]

A little update from today, I GPS'ed the boat with the chewed up prop at 40 mph. Then I installed a new stock prop and it went 43 mph. I then installed a GR 40×57 sharpened and balanced prop. Here's the freaky thing, I was heading to the water and noticed the throttle was extremely weak, to the point where I thought I installed dead batteries. I took the boat back to my truck and unplugged the batteries, checked the voltage and both had 8.4 volts. Now I'm scratching my head.
I plugged the batteries back in and tested the throttle again and poof, a large cloud of smoke was billowing from the esc. We stepped back for a second because the smoke was all in our faces. Then we pulled the boat off my tail gate and set it onthe ground about 8 feet away. Then I used a pair of plyers to disconect the batteries. The esc is still smoking and cracking. Once I got the batteries out I started working on removing the esc. After it was removed I threw it about 5 feet away.
Now I could breath, then I thought wtf???. After a couple of minutes I got my temp gauge and got a 210 degress reading. After that I noticed the positive wire came off the esc and it looks like it shorted out on the larger capacitor.

Here are some pic's of the after math.
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104832

104833

104833

Any chance I can send it in for a replacement????

[stelerzman]

I want to upgrade what would the seaking 90 amp esc do for me????:help:

[Arizonaheat]

Here's what I did to the prop.:doh:103402

I wouldn't bother even charging the batteries again unless your prop looks like this:


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[stelerzman]

Looks good, just so I know, what side gets sanded?
I've heard backside, away from the transome, which is it? Thanks.

[wayne middlemiss]

the drive dog side is the area you sharpen & do thinning work on the blades from.

[stelerzman]

Thanks for the info, i was misinformed. What is the results if I do the wrong side??????

[stelerzman]

I wouldn't bother even charging the batteries again unless your prop looks like this:


104855

Which prop is that?:thumbup1:

[stelerzman]

Wohoo, I finally got my esc. I'll get it in soon.

[sboti74]

Nice thread and I've learned quite a bit. Thank you Stelerzman and all those that have been helping him out. :)

I've just got a used UL-1 and ran it for the first time today. Not nearly as fast as yours but I think I need some tuning. Looking foward to watching the thread and learning as much as I can.

Thanks.

[stelerzman]

Nice thread and I've learned quite a bit. Thank you Stelerzman and all those that have been helping him out. :)

I've just got a used UL-1 and ran it for the first time today. Not nearly as fast as yours but I think I need some tuning. Looking foward to watching the thread and learning as much as I can.

Thanks.

What is your current set-up? Where is your strut, mine is almost all the way up, it measures 7/8" from the bottom of the hull. My rudder is about 82* back and I run my batteries as far back as possible, for now. Once I get the new esc in I'll be playing around with the set-up and see what needs adjusted.
Hope this helps.:thumbup:

[sboti74]

Thanks stelerzman. To be honest, I have no idea what my set-up is right now. Picked it up on Monday and today was the first chance I had to run it. Only have one pair of batteries ATM so I'm waiting for an order from HK, should be here Friday or Sat. Planning to meet up with some boat guys on Sunday so hopefully I'll learn some stuff there too. If I get a chance, I'll check out my set-up and let you know.

Question - When you say your batteries are all the way back, you mean up against the motor mount?

The only thing I noticed was when I was WOT, the boats was wha, wha, whaing across the water. Like a fast skipping kinda deal. Any ideas what that would be caused from? Batteries too far forward?

[stelerzman]

Yes, batteries all the way back against the motor mount.
.105407

The " wha wha wha" sounds like the boat and the prop are bouncing in and out of the water, which will slow it down. Here is how my strut and rudder is set up.
105408

Try it and see what happens. Mind you, this is just my experiance and what I've noticed what my boat does.

[Heaving Earth]

It's a hydro, you want the weight in front. Put them sideways all the way up front

[sboti74]

@ Stelerzman - Thank you for posting the pictures! I also notice your rudder is set at a negative couple degrees. Pictures maked all the difference, thank you.

@ Heaving Earth - I've heard the same thing, put all the battery weight up front as far as possible. I had mine laid out like Stelerzman has them but pushed forward. Putting them sideways, across the bow, is better?

Thanks guys.

[stelerzman]

Np, glad they helped, I tried to mount the batts sideways and the only thing it would do is nose dive.
Once I get the new esc in I'll mount them sideways and see what happens.

[Heaving Earth]

Yeah they all nose dive. When it bounces back up, hit full throttle and don't let off

[stelerzman]

I've tried that the first time out and it still nose dived, no matter how many times I tried to get it up on plane . The only thing that is could be is a tired esc, and could be the reason that it went up in smoke. The only way I was able to enjoy the UL-1 was to set it up the way I now have it.:zip-up:

[stelerzman]

My plan is to install the new esc and got some ripping time in this week. I'll post up the results of theboat and most definitely video for evidence. :banana:

[stelerzman]

Anyone used the HK 90 amp esc? If so, could you post up the wire configuration, mine are not labled.
Thanks.:-)

[Shovelnoserc]

Do you mean the 3-wires to the motor from the esc If so, you install them and test if the prop is spinning the correct way, otherwise change 2 the of the 3 wires

[stelerzman]

Ok, so there's no way to screw up the motor or esc:confused1:

[stelerzman]

Just spent the last few hours cleaning up the tub of my UL-1, now I'm ready to install the new 90amp hk esc. Here are some pic's.

105996105997

Once I get the esc set up I'll post more pic's and test.:Peace_Sign:

[Shovelnoserc]

looking good

[stelerzman]

looking good
Thank you, I'm still working on getting the new esc soldered and set up. After I get that all done I'll be working on the airdamn. :biggrin:

[stelerzman]

Just spent the last few hours cleaning up the tub of my UL-1, now I'm ready to install the new 90amp hk esc. Here are some pic's.

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Once I get the esc set up I'll post more pic's and test.:Peace_Sign:

[stelerzman]

Only thing I have to do is spend a little quality time on the prop.:hornets_nest:

[stelerzman]

Good news, I have the esc installed and ready to hit the water. After the initial test, I had wired the esc to the motor back wards. This is now all fixed. I'm now working on the prop. Should be done by saturday.
Also made an airdam and will install that after I get her on the waterfor testing. Here are some pic's.:banana:

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What do ya think?

[Shovelnoserc]

Nice, I just received my Air Dam from Kintec the carbon fiber one. I'll be testing it out on sunday, got a few props to test as well. x644 and x945 2-blade CNC props.

[tlandauer]

Looks great so far, and I admire your courage to do your own prop! :buttrock:
This is more of a question rather than advise---love your air dam , where did you get that aluminum piece? I like to know if there an advantage to leave the edge serrated?
I did order both kinds from Kintec, I must say I prefer the wedged one more than the square CF piece.

[stelerzman]

Looks great so far, and I admire your courage to do your own prop! :buttrock:
This is more of a question rather than advise---love your air dam , where did you get that aluminum piece? I like to know if there an advantage to leave the edge serrated?
I did order both kinds from Kintec, I must say I prefer the wedged one more than the square CF piece.

The airdam is made from plastic corner molding, it's screwed to the wall over drywall then they apply drywall mud over it. The holes help hold the drywall mud to the molding. I have a *!***!***!***!** ton of it left over from my last remodel job.:cool2:

I'll test it out and see how it works and let ya know.

[stelerzman]

This is what the molding looks like before I cut it.
.106082

[stelerzman]

Nice, I just received my Air Dam from Kintec the carbon fiber one. I'll be testing it out on sunday, got a few props to test as well. x644 and x945 2-blade CNC props.

Cool, let me know how they work and which one is better, I might get one. Thanks.
Another thing, keep an eye on your temps with each prop, just an FYI.:thumbup1:

[tlandauer]

The airdam is made from plastic corner molding, it's screwed to the wall over drywall then they apply drywall mud over it. The holes help hold the drywall mud to the molding. I have a *!***!***!***!** ton of it left over from my last remodel job.:cool2:

I'll test it out and see how it works and let ya know.


This is what the molding looks like before I cut it.
.106082
Thanks! Keep us posted!:rockon2:

[stelerzman]

No problem, will do. I hope a friend of mine shows up to record the runs on HD video. That will give you the info you need.:bounce:

[stelerzman]

Just finished ballancing and sharpening the prop. It took a few hours but I think it's ready to go. I'll post pic's soon.:bounce:

[stelerzman]

Here are the pic's of the prop I b/s'ed today.
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How does it look? It's balanced nicely. It never stopped in the same place twice.:moon:

[tlandauer]

That is alot of labor of love. Looks good. Glad it is balanced to that extend!! :buttrock:
Which prop is this? I have one observation and please do not take it wrong: in the second photo, I see a bit of the cast flashing ( is it what it's called? ) , you might have already removed it, but I think you might want to file it off eventually.

[stelerzman]

That is alot of labor of love. Looks good. Glad it is balanced to that extend!! :buttrock:
Which prop is this? I have one observation and please do not take it wrong: in the second photo, I see a bit of the cast flashing ( is it what it's called? ) , you might have already removed it, but I think you might want to file it off eventually.

Thank you, and yes it's a bit time consuming, I started out using a dremal with a 120 grit sanding drum to knock off the majority of the material. After I was done with that I smoothed it out with 400 grit sandpaper buy hand. What you see is the result of too much pressure from the dremal, I took too much material off at that location.
The prop is a GrimRacer 40x57. I'll run it the way it is and see how it works. I'll post up the info for a point of reference and a learning experience. I can't wait to drop her in the water.:popcorn2:

[Shovelnoserc]

How did it go today ? How did you like the air dam? I

[stelerzman]

Things didn't go according to plan. I found out one of the four batteries I have is dead, so I had very limited run time. The first thing I wanted to test was the GR 40X57 prop I just finished balancing and sharpening, that didn't go well. I must have screwed it up because it didn't get the boat on plane at all. I even launched it by hand to get it going, it was a total flop. That's when I put the stock prop back on, I was able to get her on plane, then I ran into some weeds and it made a weird noise. I brought it in to check it out and couldn't find anything wrong. Needless to say I didn't get a chance to install the airdam. DAMN. :cursing:


How was your run????

[stelerzman]

Looks as though I'll be going back to the basics to get this UL-1 back up to par on the water. After she's back, I'll be able to install and test my version of an airdam.:Praying:0

[lenny]

That prop needs a sharp edge on the back side of it, :tongue_smilie:
The front side you just want to clean up to meet the cutting edges of the back.
That prop like it is will heat up the setup fast. :flammes-09:

[rc2266]

Try a m445, you will be pleased

[tlandauer]

Looks as though I'll be going back to the basics to get this UL-1 back up to par on the water. After she's back, I'll be able to install and test my version of an airdam.:Praying:0

Just so you know, I used the stock three blade plastic prop on my UL-1 two years ago and was very happy with the result. At that time I didn't have a Grim 40x52/3 prop. I have never run the UL-1 with anything other than the plastic prop.
Fastforward to last month: I bought a used BBY Zephyr and for the maiden I used the same prop, later I used the metal prop, yes, it is faster, but in hind sight, for sport running, it really is not that much of a difference. So don't feel bad if you had a set back, I think you made the big step by doing your own prop, from now on you will gain experience that I wish I would have!
A bit of self promotion but I want you to see how this follow-up run with the Grim Racer prop compared to an earlier run in the video. (Search for the "BBY Zephyr Trial Run...")
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzLh_xD0k1U

[stelerzman]

Nice vid, I'll take another look at the prop later today .

[stelerzman]

That prop needs a sharp edge on the back side of it, :tongue_smilie:
The front side you just want to clean up to meet the cutting edges of the back.
That prop like it is will heat up the setup fast. :flammes-09:
So your saying it's not sharp enough?

[tlandauer]

Nice vid, I'll take another look at the prop later today .

Thanks, my point was that you can have fun and learn alot about setting up the boat using the plastic prop while you take your time figuring out what you need to do with your metal prop. While I can't say anything that I don't know much, Lenny is right, these props need to be sharp---which I think you realize, but actually they need to be THIN! Another words if you make the edges ( leading edge) sharp, your job is not completely done yet. You should post some pictures and I am sure you will get some good specific advice.
The metal props I buy is so sharp that they can cut your fingers if you are not careful!

[stelerzman]

Thanks for all the info, I'll keep the stock prop on until I get the GR prop correct
I'm doing some battery research to find something with more of a C rating. As of now, I only have 1 pair of batteries at the moment..

[stelerzman]

I got home about 5:30 and broke out the micro file set. Started filing the 40X57 prop to thin it out and make a very thin and smooth transition to the front side of the prop. I only have 2 more blades to go. After that I'll begin the balancing

[Shovelnoserc]

Keep at it. I got lucky on my first time doing my own prop and achieved a positive result. I think with a little more work I can make it perfect in my eyes at least.

[tlandauer]

I got home about 5:30 and broke out the micro file set. Started filing the 40X57 prop to thin it out and make a very thin and smooth transition to the front side of the prop. I only have 2 more blades to go. After that I'll begin the balancing
:thumbup1::rockon2:

[stelerzman]

It's weird that I didn't think to weight the prop before I started .

[stelerzman]

I now know the importance of a properly tuned prop, here is a video of a poorly tuned prop.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMjGJj6r9ZA

[stelerzman]

Here is a video of a stock UL-1 prop, It's running aprox. 43mph. Once I get the boat tuned and setup correctly it should run a bit better.
It's all a work in progress.:thumbup1:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUh49_-WZCE

[stelerzman]

Here is another video of my boat that I forgot I had. This is the very first run I was able to really open her up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBvP4m6zme8&feature=player_detailpage

[4sdash]

stelerzman great thread i was wondering if you might be able to help me with my boat i got a use ul-1 it has an 1800kv motor and esc out of a spartan i run 4400 40c 2s bats all the way in the sponsons so the area in front of the motor has nothing there i have an 642 prop s\b on it now . the questions is im going to the grim 40/57/3 blade what should i make the strut hieght with this prop and how to get ride of chime walk it really bad boat get up on plane very fast and the boat really movers just unstable thanks for any help

[stelerzman]

stelerzman great thread i was wondering if you might be able to help me with my boat i got a use ul-1 it has an 1800kv motor and esc out of a spartan i run 4400 40c 2s bats all the way in the sponsons so the area in front of the motor has nothing there i have an 642 prop s\b on it now . the questions is im going to the grim 40/57/3 blade what should i make the strut hieght with this prop and how to get ride of chime walk it really bad boat get up on plane very fast and the boat really movers just unstable thanks for any help

I have my strut up all the way, 7/8" from the hull. If you look back a page or two I posted a pic . I would like to see some pic's of your boat if possible.
Do you have an air dam installed? That might help to stabilize the boat.

[tlandauer]

Here is a video of a stock UL-1 prop, It's running aprox. 43mph. Once I get the boat tuned and setup correctly it should run a bit better.
It's all a work in progress.:thumbup1:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUh49_-WZCE

Looks good!

[stelerzman]

Looks good!

Thanks. I wanted to get some testing in today but when I relocated the motor wires I noticed a solder joint was coming loose so out the window with the test run. Oh well, next time.

On another topic, I've decided to make a stronger and wider turn fin mount. I'm almost done measuring and drawing it out .
I'll post up some pic's soon.

[stelerzman]

Here are a few pics of my idea to make a stronger turn fin mount with out having to get into the hull.
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I'll cut the rough shape with a band saw then clean it up on a belt sander. I might even polish it up on my buffer to a mirror finish.
I'll start this project asap. :patriot:

[Heaving Earth]

Is the stock turn fin mount not working or something?

[SloHD]

I use a black ul1 fin on my elam and it's been great.

I could wrong, but I think you might have it layed out backwards.

[lenny]

Are you still using the stock connectors on the motor and esc and deans on the cells ?

It would help the setup run better if you put 5.5 bullets on everything.






Thanks. I wanted to get some testing in today but when I relocated the motor wires I noticed a solder joint was coming loose so out the window with the test run. Oh well, next time.

On another topic, I've decided to make a stronger and wider turn fin mount. I'm almost done measuring and drawing it out .
I'll post up some pic's soon.

[lenny]

Hey. :tiphat:
Is't it the inside of the hull of the sponson the weak points for the stock turn fin and mount ?
And I know most members love the stock turn fin to use on high end Hydro's for racing.




Is the stock turn fin mount not working or something?

[stelerzman]

Is the stock turn fin mount not working or something?

It's not broken or anything, it's flimsy to me. I figured if I spread the load out it would make it more rigid.

[stelerzman]

I use a black ul1 fin on my elam and it's been great.

I could wrong, but I think you might have it layed out backwards.

More of an optical illusion. It is correct just so you know.

[stelerzman]

Are you still using the stock connectors on the motor and esc and deans on the cells ?

It would help the setup run better if you put 5.5 bullets on everything.
I am at the moment, but will be changing over soon.


Hey. :tiphat:
Is't it the inside of the hull of the sponson the weak points for the stock turn fin and mount ?
And I know most members love the stock turn fin to use on high end Hydrto's for racing.
The turn fin is fine, just need a better mount.

[stelerzman]

Good news, I took the boat out to day for more testing and tuning. I installed my own version of an air dam and I have to say not much different with or with out. I still have more testing to do and hopefully I'll come to appreciate the air dam.
I did run across a minor glitch in the cooling system, I found that some debris in the line after the esc, it was blocking the line which created more heat than normal. I cleared the line and made another run and all was much cooler.

I'm working on a couple videos to share with you so you can see where I'm at with the boat. I'll post the links when there ready.

[stelerzman]

Here is one of the videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pF_zERmby4

[lenny]

Good to hear you found the block and part of your heat problems,
Try to stay out of the green stuff and muck it grows in or you may have more blockages.
You should pull the water jacket once in a while and look for sand and stuff like that in there to,
The boat looks to be running a lot better the way it should in that video. :tiphat:

[stelerzman]

Thanks lenny, I was happy to find the cooling system blockage. While I was running the boat I felt the the turning was not quite solid. This is why I want to make a more rigid mount for the turn fin. I know it's not thebest video, but I didn't have anyone there to record for me. This is why I had to use a mini tripod that's a little to close to the ground.

Anyway, I am happy with the results of the run. More video footage to come.:popcorn2:

[lenny]

Hear an idea for you,
And this is how I do just about all my video's.
I just aim it like a side are gun and move my tx where the boat is going,
It gets easier the more you do it.

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And this was with the old camera I used.
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[tlandauer]

Here is one of the videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pF_zERmby4

Looks Awesome! :rockon2: Nice place to run a boat too!
Which prop are you using?

[4sdash]

I have my strut up all the way, 7/8" from the hull. If you look back a page or two I posted a pic . I would like to see some pic's of your boat if possible.
Do you have an air dam installed? That might help to stabilize the boat.

i will get some pics up soon i am running an air damn but i feel my boat isnt tuned enough to benifit from it yet ,i tried the 7/8 strut setting on a s/b 40/57/3 blade boat just didnt like it at all i went back to the 1 1/4 strut height and my 642 prop and broke my wire drive there goes another prop

[stelerzman]

Looks Awesome! :rockon2: Nice place to run a boat too!
Which prop are you using?

Thanks, the lake is a cool spot to run, not a lot of traffic.
The prop in that video is stock, the next video will have a GR 40X52 on her.
I can't for the life of me figure out the 40X57. Can't get it right.

[stelerzman]

i will get some pics up soon i am running an air damn but i feel my boat isnt tuned enough to benifit from it yet ,i tried the 7/8 strut setting on a s/b 40/57/3 blade boat just didnt like it at all i went back to the 1 1/4 strut height and my 642 prop and broke my wire drive there goes another prop

What are you running for electronics, stock? What size batteries are you running and where do you have the installed?

[stelerzman]

Here is the other video link, this is with the Grimracer 40x52 prop.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V31hr-kDWww

Enjoy.:bounce:

[4sdash]

What are you running for electronics, stock? What size batteries are you running and where do you have the installed?

im running the spartan electronics vxl6 and the 540 xl 1800 kv motor batt are in the sponsons they are 2s 4400mah 40c and 80c burst its a fun boat but im trading it to a freind on mine that has a miss gieco boat this weekend

[stelerzman]

im running the spartan electronics vxl6 and the 540 xl 1800 kv motor batt are in the sponsons they are 2s 4400mah 40c and 80c burst its a fun boat but im trading it to a freind on mine that has a miss gieco boat this weekend
Sounds like a beast, could you post some pic's of the UL-1 before to do the trade? Thanks.