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View Full Version : Miss Geico 24 Upgrade -need help please!



taxitotheocean
07-25-2013, 10:01 AM
Dear all,
To introduce myself first - Im Trutz from Germany all new to the rc thing.
In advance please excuse my noob questions and my englisch as well ;)
I recently bought the Miss Geico 24. Its all stock still - 15t 550 brushed Motor watercooled 3,17mm shaft , 50A Esc; running on a 7cell 4500 nihm pack.
Are there any small other options to improve the speed Without making her brushless? Prop for example? What do i have to look for to not burn the components when using a bigger prop and what size or Material sgould it be? Its Plastik 2 blades at the Moment btw.
If not -can anyone recommend a good working brushless setup
to bring her around 30mph?
Sorry for my noobisch questions-still learning;)
Regards
Trutz

J.W. Pepper
07-25-2013, 08:30 PM
I wanted one of these boats really bad for a brushless upgrade, but couldn't get answers to what prop I should use. So I went with a Shockwave 26V3 instead. I kept all the info I collected about the MG24 for future reference.

As far as trying to make your MG24 faster, the stock motor is about the best you can hope for as far as brushed motors go. Brushless is the only way to go these days, the prices have come down so much that it's often times cheaper to go that way. The stock motor mount will allow you use most all common BL motors on the market, so you don't have to worry about doing a bunch of mods to your hull.

I was going to use this motor... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?42004-WTB-Proboat-1500Kv-Motor - had I purchased the MG24. Seaking 60A ESC (running parallel with the hull) would fit where the stock unit is now, perfect place for it because that's where the water line goes in.

As I said in the beginning, I was having a hard time getting answers about props. The steerable outdrive on that boat means the prop is submerged; having a submerged prop means running on the small side because the entire prop is underwater the whole time.

I attached a list of props I compiled that might work on that boat, I can't give you specific info because I don't the answers. Maybe someone can contribute with that info.

Hopefully this info gets you going in the right direction, good luck:smile:



Dear all,
To introduce myself first - Im Trutz from Germany all new to the rc thing.
In advance please excuse my noob questions and my englisch as well ;)
I recently bought the Miss Geico 24. Its all stock still - 15t 550 brushed Motor watercooled 3,17mm shaft , 50A Esc; running on a 7cell 4500 nihm pack.
Are there any small other options to improve the speed Without making her brushless? Prop for example? What do i have to look for to not burn the components when using a bigger prop and what size or Material sgould it be? Its Plastik 2 blades at the Moment btw.
If not -can anyone recommend a good working brushless setup
to bring her around 30mph?
Sorry for my noobisch questions-still learning;)
Regards
Trutz

taxitotheocean
07-26-2013, 01:31 PM
Hey JW thanks for the quick answer. Looks good for the begining!
How would the watersupply work for that esc? Can i just use the existing
watercooling by adding a "t-part" on the entry an outlet of the boat and connect the esc to the same watercycle?
Which lipo setup would you suggest for the combo?
2x2s to get it eell ballanced?
Regards

taxitotheocean
07-26-2013, 01:37 PM
Hey JW thanks for the quick answer. Looks good for the begining!
How would the watersupply work for that esc? Can i just use the existing
watercooling by adding a "t-part" on the entry an outlet of the boat and connect the esc to the same watercycle?
Which lipo setup would you suggest for the combo?
2x2s to get it eell ballanced?
Regards

J.W. Pepper
07-26-2013, 09:42 PM
...How would the watersupply work for that esc?...

It depends on the ESC model, some have 2 water pipes, some have 4. I'll use this model for an example because it's a popular brand (its exact same thing as Seaking ESC)... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7360__Turnigy_Marine_60A_Brushless_Boat_ESC.html - you would take the water line from the transom & connect it to one of those pipes, left side pipe would be good. Yes that means cutting the existing hose to make fit correctly, remember too that you want nice even bends.

Next you run a hose from the right side ESC pipe up to the left (port) side of the motor cooler (look at the pic in previous post) and plug it into the water pipe. Take the existing hose that goes from the stock motor's cooling coil to the outside, unplug it from the cooling coil and plug it into the right side (starboard) pipe of the brushless motor cooler, that's all there is to it.

Attached is one of the pictures I collected while thinking about buying one of these boats, it shows you where I am talking about putting the ESC.

BTW: It's best to cool the ESC first, then the motor.

Batteries... I don't think there's enough room for 2x 2S LiPo's, and it would probably be too much power for that size boat; especially with the outdrive, they can get damaged from too much power. Single 3S LiPo would be the most you would want to use with that boat. I'm sure a 3S would fit the existing battery tray just fine.

Here's a good example... http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=PRB0650 - it's the boat I got instead of MG24... Notice it has a 1500Kv BL motor running on a single 3S LiPo. There's a reason why Proboat did that:wink:

The motor in that Shockwave boat is basically the same motor as the PB 1500Kv from previous post, only now it's made by Dynamite & pretty blue colour.

Hope this info helped to answer your questions & give you idea's about how to upgrade to brushless.




Hey JW thanks for the quick answer. Looks good for the begining!
How would the watersupply work for that esc? Can i just use the existing
watercooling by adding a "t-part" on the entry an outlet of the boat and connect the esc to the same watercycle?
Which lipo setup would you suggest for the combo?
2x2s to get it eell ballanced?
Regards

yogix
07-27-2013, 11:48 AM
I have this boat and have run it a few times and its great but the battery doesn't last too long. Its the speedpack 2400. Will changing to LiPos give me a longer run time

lenny
07-27-2013, 11:54 AM
Yes if you go with a higher mah packs,
And you will need to time your runs so you do not run the pack down to far.
Do you have a good charger for lipo's ?
It should be a little faster to.

yogix
07-27-2013, 05:33 PM
Yes if you go with a higher mah packs,
And you will need to time your runs so you do not run the pack down to far.
Do you have a good charger for lipo's ?
It should be a little faster to.

No my battery is Dynamite Speedpack 2400mAh Ni-MH 6-Cell Flat with EC3 Connector so I guess I would need a new charger. Would I need a new ESC?

J.W. Pepper
07-27-2013, 05:55 PM
...my battery is Dynamite Speedpack 2400mAh Ni-MH 6-Cell Flat with EC3 Connector so I guess I would need a new charger...
My Shockwave 26V3 came with the exact same battery & charger as the MG24's, there both worthless piece of sh*t. PB put them with the boat so beginners can go to the lake right away.

Update: most RTR boats & trucks come with a cheapo wall wart charger (see attached pic) that takes overnight to charge even a low mAh capacity battery. The Dynamite 2A charger is FAR bettery than those, but it keeps turning off before the battery is all the way charged - I tested mine to make sure it works. More info is here... http://www.proboatmodels.com/ProdInfo/Files/DYN_NiMH_Battery_Conditioning_addendum_11-28-12.pdf

The battery is also very good quality, but the low mAh capacity limits your runtime's as you have found out. That's why Lenny told you to get higher mAh capacity packs, it's the main thing that gives longer runtimes.

I have cycled my SpeedPack batt twice (completely discharge then charge), both times it took a 3000mAh charge using Onyx 220 charger (1.5A charge rate, no safety timer, no trickle). The only other NiMH packs I have that are that consistant are those Associated batts I have.

In the long run, you guys will be much happier with LiPo's, just be sure to get a good quality charger, you can get an adapter that will connect it to what-ever battery connectors you decide to use.

I would recommend replacing the EC3 connectors, all they are is 3.5mm bullets in a pretty blue case, that's too small. Go with at least 4mm bullet connectors, most people on this forum say 5.5mm, EC5 connectors have 5mm bullets, for your setup they would be fine.

Pick which connector type you like, change the connector on the ESC to that connector & get batteries that also have that type of connector, or change what ever the battery came with to your connector choice.

Lenny suggested LiPo's, in a addition to higher power density, they are also much less weight.

I have 2 of these... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBAKR&P=**Missing%20Data** - actual weight on postal scale = 10.10ozs

Also have 2 of these... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBAKR&P=**Missing%20Data** - actual weight on postal scale = 14.10ozs (with Traxxas connectors)

That's a quarter pound difference!! That extra weight is a lot to the stock motor. It means it has to work much harder to make the boat go the same speed.

The ESC in that boat is the same as the one that came with my SW26V3 (http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=PRB0600), it does not support LiPo's, that's why lenny told you to time your runs.

Here's an easier way... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18987__On_Board_Lipoly_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2s_4s_. html - plug the balance wire from the LiPo battery into this device and it will sound alarm & flash the lights when you get to 3.3v/cell. That tells you it's time to bring your boat to shore and change batteries.

HK has a couple other models to choose from too - pick out which ever one you like best.

Hope that helps you guys out - happy boating:smile:

yogix
07-27-2013, 07:00 PM
...my battery is Dynamite Speedpack 2400mAh Ni-MH 6-Cell Flat with EC3 Connector so I guess I would need a new charger...
My Shockwave 26V3 came with the exact same battery & charger as the MG24's, there both worthless piece of sh*t. PB put them with the boat so beginners can go to the lake right away.

You need to get a good quality charger that can do Lipo's, you can get an adapter that will connect it to what-ever battery connectors you decide to use.

Lenny told you to go with higher mAh packs because that is the main thing that gives longer runtimes.

If you like EC3 connectors fine, get batteries with that kind of connector. Or change the connector on the ESC to what-ever type connectors you like... Traxxas, 4 or 5mm bullets, etc. But it's a good idea to decide which one you like, then change your ESC connector & get batteries with the kind of connector you choose.

Lenny suggested LiPo's, in a addition to higher power density, they are also much less weight.

I have 2 of these... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBAKR&P=**Missing%20Data** - actual weight on postal scale = 10.10ozs

Also have 2 of these... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBAKR&P=**Missing%20Data** - actual weight on postal scale = 14.10ozs (with Traxxas connectors)

That's a quarter pound difference!! That extra weight is a lot to the stock motor. It means it has to work much harder to make the boat go the same speed.

The ESC in that boat is the same as the one that came with my SW26V3 (http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=PRB0600), it does not support LiPo's, that's why lenny told you to time your runs.

Here's an easier way... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18987__On_Board_Lipoly_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2s_4s_. html - plug the balance wire from the LiPo battery into this device and it will sound alarm & flash the lights when you get to 3.3v/cell. That tells you it's time to bring your boat to shore and change batteries.

HK has a couple other models to choose from too - pick out which ever one you like best.

Hope that helps you guys out - happy boating:smile:

Thanks. I see a few warnings about fires caused from LiPos. Are there particular makes to stay clear of?

lenny
07-27-2013, 08:04 PM
Just stay with a C rate of 30c or higher for lipo's,
And look on hear and see what is working for other on hear.
Just do your home work on handling the lipo's and you should be fine,
Hears some info for you to read and learn about stuff. :tongue_smilie:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17907405&postcount=3
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/info.php
http://www.tjinguytech.com/
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?271-Ideas-on-Building-a-Reliable-BL-System-by-ReddyWatts.
http://www.fastelectrics.net/

J.W. Pepper
07-28-2013, 07:46 PM
Hey Lenny...
In this thread... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?41983-GForce-25C-4000mAh-3S-in-Proboat-Shockwave-V3-BL - the OP asked if this battery... http://www.valuehobby.com/power-syst...ah-3s-trx.html - would be ok for sport boating.

I replied "Will that battery work? Yes, would I use it, no. Nothing less than 30C for boats - higher (40C +) for hotter setups / racing".

You said 25C would be fine, just check temps.

Now your saying 30C minimum, what gives??

Please don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing (read my recent posts, I only say good things bout you), just trying to figure out why the conflicting info:confused2:

For the record, I still stand by my 30C minimum for boats recommendation & practice what I preach... all my boat packs are 30C - I don't race or run high current setups. Have 7x 2S Bashers + those two 3S's, goofy name but great packs. Becuz mAh & C rating is the same, I can use them for 5S in my IM31.

I use the Onyx 5700's (25C) for my pede, they run cool to the touch, bottom of 8.4v humps get hot as hell. Have LVC set to 3.2v/cell per you recommendation, when the truck stops CellMatch tells me 3.5v/cell, probably cuz of the slight bounce back common with LiPo's.





Just stay with a C rate of 30c or higher for lipo's,
And look on hear and see what is working for other on hear.
Just do your home work on handling the lipo's and you should be fine,
Hears some info for you to read and learn about stuff. :tongue_smilie:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17907405&postcount=3
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/info.php
http://www.tjinguytech.com/
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?271-Ideas-on-Building-a-Reliable-BL-System-by-ReddyWatts.
http://www.fastelectrics.net/

lenny
07-28-2013, 08:23 PM
The op in this post is looking to mod the setup in his boat,
So with modding 30c would be the better way to go or higher.

Like I said,
25c and and that stock boat will work fine.
It is a low amp draw setup and the esc calls for no lower than 20c cells.
I have tested 25c cells in just about all of my boats and have had no problems with them,
You just need to have the boat setup right and running smooth.
And yes the more C you have the more power you have when it comes to FE setup.

J.W. Pepper
07-28-2013, 08:41 PM
Lenny is very smart about LiPo's, when I first started using them he helped me the same way he is trying to help you guys. Follow the links he gave you in post #11, there is a lot good information there.

Most of the fires you hear about & see vids on YouTube are because of stupid people who do not read or follow the instructions & proper safey measures. Some of those fires are on purpose becuase somebody was bored and had nothing better to do.

There seems to be mixed feelings about those "LiPo safety bags". Apparently there is a lot of difference in the quality, more money does not always mean better quality. A cheap bag isn't really going to help much if a fire does start. Probably better to buy those at your hobby store instead of the internet so you can see it in person before you buy it.

The main thing with LiPo's is: read and follow ALL instructions, NEVER leave a LiPo battery un-attended while it is charging. Do not charge at more than 1C, 1C = mAh of battery x 1, example: 5000mAh battery, 1C = 5A charge rate, or less if your anal like me, I charge at 1/2C or less.

Only use good quality chargers, not those cheap piece of sh*t like you see on eBay and most of the ones HobbyKing & HobbyPartz sells. The DuraTrax Onyx 235 is a good budget charger, doesn't have a lot of special / advanced features, just charges & balance's the battery.

If you want features like: discharging, safe storage mode & so on, then you need to speed some extra money and get something like these...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVRS6&P=ML

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZMX6&P=7#tech

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZA8&P=SM

I found this one last night... http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLC3025 - has a lot of useful features and it only costs $100(USD).

I also found some Hyperion chargers last night, forgot where, but they are also good quality and the prices are reasonable, about $100~$125(USD). They too have some of the more advanced features like the E-flite charger.

About makes of batteries... here is an excellent thread with tons of good info on batteries... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?40463-Best-Lipos-for-the-buck - people talk about batteries they have good luck with and ones that are not so good. The main focus is on affordable batteries that are also good quality.

Alot of people in that thread and on other forums say good things about Gens Ace. Alot of people also like Sky LiPo (and some don't), but HobbyPartz has been out of them forever.

Ok, that should be enough info to keep you guys busy for awhile.

Please be careful & safe so you can enjoy your boat hobby.



Thanks. I see a few warnings about fires caused from LiPos. Are there particular makes to stay clear of?

yogix
07-30-2013, 03:59 PM
Lenny is very smart about LiPo's, when I first started using them he helped me the same way he is trying to help you guys. Follow the links he gave you in post #11, there is a lot good information there.

Most of the fires you hear about & see vids on YouTube are because of stupid people who do not read or follow the instructions & proper safey measures. Some of those fires are on purpose becuase somebody was bored and had nothing better to do.

There seems to be mixed feelings about those "LiPo safety bags". Apparently there is a lot of difference in the quality, more money does not always mean better quality. A cheap bag isn't really going to help much if a fire does start. Probably better to buy those at your hobby store instead of the internet so you can see it in person before you buy it.

The main thing with LiPo's is: read and follow ALL instructions, NEVER leave a LiPo battery un-attended while it is charging. Do not charge at more than 1C, 1C = mAh of battery x 1, example: 5000mAh battery, 1C = 5A charge rate, or less if your anal like me, I charge at 1/2C or less.

Only use good quality chargers, not those cheap piece of sh*t like you see on eBay and most of the ones HobbyKing & HobbyPartz sells. The DuraTrax Onyx 235 is a good budget charger, doesn't have a lot of special / advanced features, just charges & balance's the battery.

If you want features like: discharging, safe storage mode & so on, then you need to speed some extra money and get something like these...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVRS6&P=ML

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZMX6&P=7#tech

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZA8&P=SM

I found this one last night... http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLC3025 - has a lot of useful features and it only costs $100(USD).

I also found some Hyperion chargers last night, forgot where, but they are also good quality and the prices are reasonable, about $100~$125(USD). They too have some of the more advanced features like the E-flite charger.

About makes of batteries... here is an excellent thread with tons of good info on batteries... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?40463-Best-Lipos-for-the-buck - people talk about batteries they have good luck with and ones that are not so good. The main focus is on affordable batteries that are also good quality.

Alot of people in that thread and on other forums say good things about Gens Ace. Alot of people also like Sky LiPo (and some don't), but HobbyPartz has been out of them forever.

Ok, that should be enough info to keep you guys busy for awhile.

Please be careful & safe so you can enjoy your boat hobby.

Loving all the helpful advice on this forum. Glad I read this before purchasing a cheap charger off eBay!

I'm now looking around for a battery, charger, motor but trying to get some tips on what to choose. Being a newbie to everything RC I am quite enjoying finding out new things everyday. For instance yesterday I found out that I can get a water cooled jacket for a motor! Sounds basic but when I was looking at motors I was wondering how the pipes attach to it!

yogix
07-31-2013, 05:44 PM
Does anybody have any views on the Turnigy Accucel-6 charger?

lenny
07-31-2013, 06:11 PM
I have the Accucel-8 charger with 150w at 7a model 8150,
This puts out some good power and works very good. http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oG7t1jiflR4mAAxNpXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTBybnZlZnR lBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkAw--/SIG=14skb42jl/EXP=1375336931/**http%3a//www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/%255F%255F7523%255F%255FTurnigy%255FAccucel%255F8% 255F150W%255F7A%255FBalancer%255FCharger.html
I also have a BC6 and two other one,
But not sure what they are at the moment.
The BC6 work pretty good to for what it is.

And I run that 8150 on this PS.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m516.l1123/7?euid=06b4d4a7b85340e1a0200c6e67877b7f&loc=http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem%26item%3D170615236018%26ssP ageName%3DADME:L:OC:US:1123

yogix
08-01-2013, 06:15 PM
With these chargers can I just plug them into the wall. Just looking around and I'm a bit confused as I get the impression reading other forums that I need a special power pack connected to the charger to reach the charging capacity of the battery.

MagnumTA
08-08-2013, 11:09 PM
Hi all. I'm new to this forum and RC boats. Like others I have recently purchased a Miss Geico 24 and would like to upgrade to brushless. I have found some good information in this thread, but still have a few questions. I have already purchased the motor http://www.advantagehobby.com/215909/DYNM3835/ and esc http://www.advantagehobby.com/215903/DYNM3810/?pcat=361. The problem I am having is that the shaft on the new motor is thicker so I need a new collet nut. I cant seem to find any specs on what size I would need. Can someone provide me with this info? Also can someone recommend a 3s battery to run with this setup. Is there anything else that needs to be changed, anything I should look out for? Thanks.

yogix
08-10-2013, 02:38 PM
Hi MagnumTA did you have any joy with the collet nut? Don't really have an answer but looking on this site http://www.funrcboats.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=DYNM3835 it says that motor fits the Geico 29 so maybe you need a collet nut to fit that model.

lenny
08-10-2013, 03:15 PM
That is a lot of motor for that hull,
The shaft on that 1500kv motor is 5mm.
You need to find out what size the flex shaft is in you stock boat.http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PRB0507
Or up grade the shaft and hardware to some thing better for easy maintenance,
And all around better setup than stock stuff.
This looks like a nice mod on the 17" hull that could be done to the 24" hull done the line.:tongue_smilie:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?41277-Miss-Geico-17-quot-build



Hi all. I'm new to this forum and RC boats. Like others I have recently purchased a Miss Geico 24 and would like to upgrade to brushless. I have found some good information in this thread, but still have a few questions. I have already purchased the motor http://www.advantagehobby.com/215909/DYNM3835/ and esc http://www.advantagehobby.com/215903/DYNM3810/?pcat=361. The problem I am having is that the shaft on the new motor is thicker so I need a new collet nut. I cant seem to find any specs on what size I would need. Can someone provide me with this info? Also can someone recommend a 3s battery to run with this setup. Is there anything else that needs to be changed, anything I should look out for? Thanks.

yogix
08-10-2013, 06:30 PM
Do you think one of these would work? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__12683__Shaft_Adapter_5mm_motor_shaft_to_4mm_Flex i_Shaft.html

lenny
08-10-2013, 06:58 PM
What Od is your stock flex shaft in the boat ?

MagnumTA
08-10-2013, 08:17 PM
I'm not sure what the od of the stock shaft is. This collet should work http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PRB3308 as its listed to be used with that motor on the MG29. What is confusing me is that it is also listed as being used in the MG24. I have emailed horizon to confirm that it will work. I'll measure the stock one tomorrow when I take it back out.

lenny
08-10-2013, 09:29 PM
The stock flex shaft on the MG29 is .150 and the coupler is .150 to 5mm motor shaft.

J.W. Pepper
08-27-2013, 01:04 AM
Great choice of motor, I got the PB version for my Rio EP, still suffered from torque roll, no where near as bad as the 1800Kv from the IM31, but she would still roll over at top end. I have to disagree with Lenny about that choice, if a SW26 can handle it, than there's no reason a MG24 can't, especially considering that the MG24 is much wider be-cuz it's a cat.

DL the BJ26 manual, you'll find instructions in it for adjusting the outdrive. Between that and battery placement you should be able to get a good balance.

I put the Tacon 2700Kv motor back in my Rio and ran it on 8.4v humps with a PB ESC from MG-v1, set timing at 0° and she hauled the mail, using the stock plastic prop no less - 1st time I've used the stock plastic prop with the BL setup, normally run Kintec CNC'ed alum props.

Also replaced the mickey mouse aluminum coil coolers I've used in the past with this one... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMTZ6&P=**Missing%20Data** -- no leaks, good water flow and the motor stayed cool to the touch.

Only issue was the PB ESC kicking LVC in when there was still plenty of battery left. I've already replaced it with a Seaking 90-amp unit so turn off that stupid LVC and play with the timing some more. Last time I was on this board there were several threads on the subject of motor timing. Got me to experimenting, all I can say is; more is not always better, so far less has been better for me.

I'm puttin the PB 1500Kv motor in my SW26 with a Seaking 90-amp speedo when I get the time.

About the coupler issue... I used this coupler... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-ocfhe5mm13S -- to connect the PB 1500 to the Rio's flexshaft. Got it and 3x of these... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-ocfhe5mm15S - from Steve when we got a breif break from the oppressive heatwave that's been kickin butt on the western USA this summer.

Used it once and now I don't have a use for it. The 5mm-> .150's are for my SW26 (with PB 1500) & IM31 + 1 spare.

You guys gotta take Lenny's advice and determine the diameter of the stock MG24 flexshaft. Between all of you guys, somebodies got to have friend with a dial / digi caliper so you can measure, only way your going to know for sure. Once you guys have determined what the diameter is, then you'll know which of the Octura couplers you need - be sure to get a short one - they have the letter "S" at the end of the part number. I've got plenty of pix of that boat, almost got one, so I know what it looks like under the hood / boot (or is it bonnet??) for you Brits.

That's my biggest complaint about Horizon, for some reason they don't like to provide specs... for any of they're stuff, and it's not just boats either, I've got 4-Blade heli's, try finding the deminsions for ANY of the Spektrum air Rx or Tx's:frusty::frusty::frusty:

About the battery question... http://rcjuice.com/Basher-Series/Juicepax-Basher-Series-3500mah-3S-11-1v-30C-45C-Lipo.html - I''ve got 7x 2S's + 2x 3S all 5000's, goofy name, great product. But the 3S 5000's are a bit on the heavy side (13ozs actual measured), that's why I'm suggesting the 3500's - those just came out recently.


Hi all. I'm new to this forum and RC boats. Like others I have recently purchased a Miss Geico 24 and would like to upgrade to brushless. I have found some good information in this thread, but still have a few questions. I have already purchased the motor http://www.advantagehobby.com/215909/DYNM3835/ and esc http://www.advantagehobby.com/215903/DYNM3810/?pcat=361. The problem I am having is that the shaft on the new motor is thicker so I need a new collet nut. I cant seem to find any specs on what size I would need. Can someone provide me with this info? Also can someone recommend a 3s battery to run with this setup. Is there anything else that needs to be changed, anything I should look out for? Thanks.

MagnumTA
08-27-2013, 08:47 AM
Hi JW, thanks for the response. I actually made the swap of everything a couple of weeks ago. Lenny's advice of the coupler being 5mm>.150 was correct. I have only ran it a couple of times on NiMH 7.2v and 8.4v packs. Everything was good and a definate pick up in speed. Can't wait to see what it will do with a lipo in it.

However, I tried running it this past weekend after it had set up for a week and it would not come on. If someone could help me with this issue. The batteries were fully charged, but nothing happened when I flipped the switch on the ESC. I popped the batteries in my traxxas stampede and everything worked fine so I know they were good. Next, I wired the stock ESC back up to the receiver and still nothing. So... I'm thinking maybe the receiver has gone out??? Anything else I should check? How do I test the ESC to make sure it is on? Thanks

yogix
09-08-2013, 05:56 PM
Hi All

Finally got my hands on a digital calliper and measured the flex shaft on the 24" and it read 0.147" / 3.78mm.

I decided to fiddle about with the stock motor and wanted to take it out but I could not remove the coupler from the motor shaft. I loosened the tiny black screw but it didn't come out. I didn't want to pull the coupler from the shaft too hard incase I damaged the motor. Can anybody give me some advice.

lenny
09-08-2013, 10:19 PM
Take the set screw all the way out and it should come right off easy.

Bduncan
09-09-2013, 09:40 AM
If on a budget, the set up from a revolt would run well

aklopf2k4
10-17-2013, 12:27 PM
Hello jw....

Im new to ose and seen this post on the mg24 i just finished up a brushless upgrade on mine im running a 1500kv motor 80a esc on dual 25c 2s lipos it runs great, I have noticed alot of cavatation with the prop so naturally went up in size, havent had a chance to run it but was hoping i could get that prop list you had for some reason the attachment wasnt showing up for me. Thanks in advance for any prop advice you can give me as im sure you already know info on this is scarce!!!

Bduncan
10-17-2013, 01:48 PM
Talk to savageskidoo.

Chris Ediss
12-30-2013, 12:10 AM
Any updates from anyone on MG 24 upgrading to brushless. I'm new to RC boats. Bought my sons this boat and can't get over how nice she looks. Am running 3s Lipo with everything else stock. Runs pretty good but ESC gets pretty hot. Will likely upgrade to brushless ESC and motor so hope to get details on best options. I prefer to keep drive same for now. I appreciate anyone's help for this boat noob

Bduncan
12-30-2013, 08:54 AM
Maybe traxxas titan motor

aklopf2k4
12-30-2013, 10:38 AM
On 2x 2s lipos I hit 33mph with stock drive set up and a 35mm 3 blade cnc prop. It Runs cool with oversized cooling lines. (one size bigger than stock). I have around 15 runs on her and it seems to be holding up well here is a video of her running. Hope this info helps ya!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_YhGvWFYy8

SloHD
12-30-2013, 11:56 AM
Any updates from anyone on MG 24 upgrading to brushless. I'm new to RC boats. Bought my sons this boat and can't get over how nice she looks. Am running 3s Lipo with everything else stock. Runs pretty good but ESC gets pretty hot. Will likely upgrade to brushless ESC and motor so hope to get details on best options. I prefer to keep drive same for now. I appreciate anyone's help for this boat noob

Go pick yourself up the latest rc boat mag. They wrote an article about upgrading an mg24 to brushless. It's all relatively easy if you just do a little bit of your own research.

tjdabomb
03-05-2014, 08:27 PM
Any updates from anyone on MG 24 upgrading to brushless. I'm new to RC boats. Bought my sons this boat and can't get over how nice she looks. Am running 3s Lipo with everything else stock. Runs pretty good but ESC gets pretty hot. Will likely upgrade to brushless ESC and motor so hope to get details on best options. I prefer to keep drive same for now. I appreciate anyone's help for this boat noob

HI -

I have a 24, I got a leopard 3300kv motor and put in a pro boat 45a ESC & (2) 2x2s 5000mah lipos - ALL else is stock. Took it out, first clocked run, 39mph. Next day runs on a choppy lake, 25, 33, 36 mph. Smooth water, I think 39 is repeatable and quite doable long term.

Will be swapping in various props to further test increases in performance. Also have the pro boat 1500kv motor (which comes in the 29) that I will eventually swap in for comparisions sake.

All in all, all parts swaps in this boat are a breeze. I did a motor and ESC swap in about 10 minutes.

tb

ray schrauwen
03-05-2014, 08:39 PM
With a 1500Kv motor the prop you need to swing to get 40-45mph would be very large and may make it unstable. I mean if you run it on 4S that is...

Are your running the 3300kv motor on 2S2P or 4S1P?

tjdabomb
03-06-2014, 12:47 AM
Ray - 4s1p. I have a pr4019 that i just balanced, sharpened and polished - I am thinking that may be good for 2-5mph with the 3300kv... maybe.

Have some marine epoxy coming my way to "blueprint" the sponsons. Also have some balanced/sharpened props coming, prather 230 and 240 (got em cheap).

I am looking to swap out the steerable drive with the mg29 setup (inline, not offset). Having a hard time getting a parts list together, any ideas... anyone?

Bduncan
03-06-2014, 08:34 AM
647 3 blade

lenny
03-06-2014, 09:24 AM
Hey they are some big props for that little cat hull,:tiphat:
A three blade prop may help keep it from torque rolling some and still give good speeds like a x440/3.
My 32"pursuit mono setup is 4074 1800kv,180a esc, spinning a modded s&b x447/3,
I run it on 3s,4s,5s,6s and so far it runs pretty good.
But I am not done testing props yet.

Like I said those big props like the s or b230 and 240 will pull high amps from your esc and cells,
And may smoke something on you.
Keep a good eye on temp when testing for one to two minutes runs.

I would like to see some good video's of these cats running from shore,
In nice saw like runs or in nice oval runs.
To see how they are handling and riding on the water.
Also some setup pictures would be good to see for CG lay out.





Ray - 4s1p. I have a pr4019 that i just balanced, sharpened and polished - I am thinking that may be good for 2-5mph with the 3300kv... maybe.

Have some marine epoxy coming my way to "blueprint" the sponsons. Also have some balanced/sharpened props coming, prather 230 and 240 (got em cheap).

I am looking to swap out the steerable drive with the mg29 setup (inline, not offset). Having a hard time getting a parts list together, any ideas... anyone?

tjdabomb
03-06-2014, 09:55 AM
My 24 has a smaller diameter flax shaft - not the same size as the mg29. In order to use any other prop, i need the bigger diameter shaft. outside of the diameter of the shaft, is the 29 shaft the same LENGTH as the stock 24 shaft?? if so, any ideas on where to buy one?

lenny
03-06-2014, 10:52 AM
What size is the stock flex shaft 1/8 or .150 ?
You could use a spacer to use 3/16 props, http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-1035
Or mod and up grade the flex shaft to .150 or .187 and cut it to the size you need if it is to long.
They have the parts hear in the OSE store.

tjdabomb
03-06-2014, 02:55 PM
What size is the stock flex shaft 1/8 or .150 ?
You could use a spacer to use 3/16 props, http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-1035
Or mod and up grade the flex shaft to .150 or .187 and cut it to the size you need if it is to long.
They have the parts hear in the OSE store.

Len - I have no way of measuring the shaft, though, I did come across another thread on this site where a user did measure the shaft to be 0.147"/3.78mm. I guess rounding up is in order, which, would make this shaft/my shaft be .150" Isnt' .150" the same size as the mg29 shaft?? Thanks for the link to the spacer. I am thinking that this shaft from Kintec would give me everything I need:

BlackJack29, Miss Geico, Mystic Upgrade Shaft: "Perfectly balanced. Cut to length. Soldered end for better collet grip. Machined drive dog slot. .150 cable x 3/16 shaft. Complete unit with stainless drive dog, jam nut, prop nut and teflon liner. Has a 10-32 thread." http://kintecracing.com/Miss_Geico_Upgrades.html Thoughts??


Sure would be nice if all the parts specifications would be online for these boats.......just sayin.....

lenny
03-06-2014, 04:43 PM
Did you look at these posts for any input ?

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?41277-Miss-Geico-17-quot-build

tjdabomb
03-06-2014, 06:54 PM
Did you look at these posts for any input ?

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?41277-Miss-Geico-17-quot-build

Len -

Ya, no specific part numbers listed nor is that the same boat - everything is different. He had to change his tube, smaller motor can (380), smaller rudder/strut... everything. Nothing applies.

gr8evo
03-16-2014, 10:46 PM
Great little boat. Very stable up to 55mph..I run a .150 shaft with a rudder and tppower 3650 2650kv on 4s, 42mm prop 55mph all day. Ran it on 6s with a 38mm CNC prop and well let's just say it took flight just over 55mph and sank lol..

tjdabomb
03-17-2014, 05:34 PM
Great little boat. Very stable up to 55mph..I run a .150 shaft with a rudder and tppower 3650 2650kv on 4s, 42mm prop 55mph all day. Ran it on 6s with a 38mm CNC prop and well let's just say it took flight just over 55mph and sank lol..

55mph all day??? That is hard to believe unless you were boating in a vacuum. not that 55 isn't achievable, but rather, that it could be sustained at all or even have a shred of reliable runs.

Yesterday, I had my 24 at the lake, I did the following:

Hull stock, out drive stock:
1500kv, 45a esc, composite prop, 4s1p 28.3mph
1500kv, 45a esc, prb 4019 stainless prop, 4s1p 31.6mph
1500kv, 45a esc, prb 4019 stainless prop, 5s1p 36.1mph With this setup, I had to ease the throttle or it would flip from a start. water was a little choppy and windy towards the end, I felt like any more than just a blip of full throttle would cause it to flip. my 3s in this setup was fully charged, and, my 2s was nearly depleted so I wasn't working with full 5s voltage. No heat issues at all, caps highest temp was 101 and that was only once. Batteries were adjacent to the motor, basically half way. Interestingly enough, all three setups yesterday, no wah at all. In fact, this boat has never wahhed - weird.

Given the conditions yesterday, it didn't feel like any more speed was reliably possible. Any more kv or volts would have made for a swimming day for me. It's possible to put the batteries more fore thereby holding the front down - I'd have to check. I have a prather 230 and a octura x642 to try, see what gains can be made there. Might have to try a calmer lake, though.

ray schrauwen
03-17-2014, 07:00 PM
I'm quite peeved off that the HUll & Hatch have been discontinued.... If I only knew this I would have picked one up a few months ago.... Darn you Proboat!! :frusty:

tjdabomb
03-17-2014, 07:41 PM
I'm quite peeved off that the HUll & Hatch have been discontinued.... If I only knew this I would have picked one up a few months ago.... Darn you Proboat!! :frusty:

Ray, you can prob pick up the entire boat for <$100 from ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=a3630+1800kv&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xmiss+geic o+24&_nkw=miss+geico+24&_sacat=0

I got mine that way in December for $90 delivered. It was winter, though.... :wink:

gr8evo
03-17-2014, 10:17 PM
actually it will run 55mph all day. not 1 but two different boats. me and a friend have a friendly competition going. he runs (using a Garmin) 56mph with stock hull and hardware blackjack 29 esc, leo 4050 2700kv car motor, 4s, with a stainless pro-boat prop. he blows the u-joint if power hard in a turn. i run a rudder with a revolt strut. both boats have no problem running full speed(55mph) for 100+ feet than we run out of lake lol. i was trying to one up him on 6s and that didnt go well lol.

gr8evo
03-17-2014, 10:19 PM
btw- just picked up a used one for 80.00 ready to run of ebay. they pop up now and than.

gr8evo
03-17-2014, 10:20 PM
encase any one wants to know the 4s runs were with spc 2s 6900mah 70c packs.

tjdabomb
03-18-2014, 08:22 PM
actually it will run 55mph all day. not 1 but two different boats. me and a friend have a friendly competition going. he runs (using a Garmin) 56mph with stock hull and hardware blackjack 29 esc, leo 4050 2700kv car motor, 4s, with a stainless pro-boat prop. he blows the u-joint if power hard in a turn. i run a rudder with a revolt strut. both boats have no problem running full speed(55mph) for 100+ feet than we run out of lake lol. i was trying to one up him on 6s and that didnt go well lol.

If you hit 55mph, that is going 80.66 feet per second, which, if you can only go 100' before stopping, then you are only going ~55mpg for one second. Though the motor/esc you describe could potentially go 55, your own facts above show that your lake isn't big enough to realistically get to 55mph since you can't go from 0-55mph fast enough before running out of lake. :flashfire::flashfire: there goes that nice little tale.

gr8evo
03-18-2014, 10:58 PM
wow some people lol. point i was trying to make is we run them back and forth till out of water. your low kv setup is slow. do you think that means everyone combo is slow lol? Tell you what i am leaving for mexico Thursday morning if my friend is willing to go out tomorrow i will vid the date and time from a cell phone, show the gps at 0, tape it in the boat, make several speed passes, just for you lol.

than you can just tell me how i was off with the 100ft coment. lol

gr8evo
03-18-2014, 11:10 PM
i will be the first to say i am new to fe boats. i started last year with a revolt, and got into them more this winter. just started a daytona 36 build. here is a pic of the 24mg and my daytona build(trying for 90+on 7s per side)

My point was to share a 55mph combo for when people read this upgrade thread. You should take notes.

tjdabomb
03-19-2014, 03:32 PM
i will be the first to say i am new to fe boats. i started last year with a revolt, and got into them more this winter. just started a daytona 36 build. here is a pic of the 24mg and my daytona build(trying for 90+on 7s per side)

My point was to share a 55mph combo for when people read this upgrade thread. You should take notes.


Yup, I took copious notes on the part where you wrote "i am new to fe boats" thanks breh

tjdabomb
03-19-2014, 03:42 PM
wow some people lol. point i was trying to make is we run them back and forth till out of water. your low kv setup is slow. do you think that means everyone combo is slow lol? Tell you what i am leaving for mexico Thursday morning if my friend is willing to go out tomorrow i will vid the date and time from a cell phone, show the gps at 0, tape it in the boat, make several speed passes, just for you lol.

than you can just tell me how i was off with the 100ft coment. lol

ya, a 1500kv setup is slow. I wonder how darin was able to get it to 49mph on 4s!!! You know who Darin is??? You know, the guy that DESIGNED the boat!!


Using a Prather 230, on 4S, I was able to consistently run 46-47mph with the stock system, and I hit 49 at one point. Not sure I'd recommend it on the stock 45A ESC for very long, however. Looking at over 80A continuous.

Damn.... these stock electronics are SLOW. hahahaha

It was a 29 and not a 24, but you aren't contesting the boat size, just the electronics, but, accuracy isn't your strong point anyway, so, w/e. Take notes though.

Have fun in Mexico, don't drink the water!

gr8evo
03-19-2014, 04:49 PM
Here you go in the wind 57mph..

http://youtu.be/yQfMs11t9Oc

gr8evo
03-19-2014, 05:00 PM
So what does a 29 have to do with anything? You said that running 55mph was a nice little tail. So hows this tail work for you (57mph)?

Thanks for explaining (in so many words) were you land on the food chain. lol


ya, a 1500kv setup is slow. I wonder how darin was able to get it to 49mph on 4s!!! You know who Darin is??? You know, the guy that DESIGNED the boat!!



Damn.... these stock electronics are SLOW. hahahaha

It was a 29 and not a 24, but you aren't contesting the boat size, just the electronics, but, accuracy isn't your strong point anyway, so, w/e. Take notes though.

Have fun in Mexico, don't drink the water!

tlandauer
03-19-2014, 05:41 PM
Nice clip! Wish you have a bigger lake!
Question: is your rescue craft powered by two EDF units? :buttrock: Nice !

tjdabomb
03-19-2014, 07:07 PM
So what does a 29 have to do with anything? You said that running 55mph was a nice little tail. So hows this tail work for you (57mph)?

Thanks for explaining (in so many words) were you land on the food chain. lol

So hows this TAIL work for you (57mph)?



TAIL, food chain, irony... high school graduate.... maybe???? doubtful, HAHAHAHA

Glad you were able to hit 57, my lake just wouldn't do it for me the other day . prob my experimental setup had something to do with it also. Also glad you and your buddy were able to get away from the land fill long enough to produce this video, just a mere hour after my post too!! Shouldn't you be "packing" for Mexico? lol

On a serious note, that low torque high volt setup may be the only way to get the high mph's, I dunno. my 1500 on 5s would flip the other day going 25mph even with the cells forward. my same boat with a 3300kv leo did 39 on a stock prop and 4s with no indication of blow over - too bad that motor doesn't like 4s. :flashfire::flashfire: fun fun fun.

lenny
03-19-2014, 07:49 PM
Hey nice run and good videoing, :beerchug:
Just the way I like to see them nice and long.:popcorn2:

Not one of those 35 second video's that suck. :moon:

Ps I want to see that rescue craft doing it's thing sometime soon. :tongue_smilie:


Here you go in the wind 57mph..

http://youtu.be/yQfMs11t9Oc

trimarc geico
03-19-2014, 09:26 PM
we do too!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol

gr8evo
03-20-2014, 01:06 AM
You win. No more boating for me. Think i will just go play with the twin turbo lambo in my garage. lol


So hows this TAIL work for you (57mph)?



TAIL, food chain, irony... high school graduate.... maybe???? doubtful, HAHAHAHA

Glad you were able to hit 57, my lake just wouldn't do it for me the other day . prob my experimental setup had something to do with it also. Also glad you and your buddy were able to get away from the land fill long enough to produce this video, just a mere hour after my post too!! Shouldn't you be "packing" for Mexico? lol

On a serious note, that low torque high volt setup may be the only way to get the high mph's, I dunno. my 1500 on 5s would flip the other day going 25mph even with the cells forward. my same boat with a 3300kv leo did 39 on a stock prop and 4s with no indication of blow over - too bad that motor doesn't like 4s. :flashfire::flashfire: fun fun fun.

gr8evo
03-20-2014, 01:24 AM
Yes, edf's with a mixer. works pretty well, but could use esc's with reverse.


Nice clip! Wish you have a bigger lake!
Question: is your rescue craft powered by two EDF units? :buttrock: Nice !

tjdabomb
03-20-2014, 12:47 PM
You win. No more boating for me. Think i will just go play with the twin turbo lambo in my garage. lol

haha, more like:

113224

ray schrauwen
03-20-2014, 01:00 PM
It would be more fun to play with a Lambo while driving down the road, no?

tjdabomb
03-20-2014, 01:06 PM
:tongue_smilie:

ray schrauwen
03-20-2014, 06:54 PM
How tough would you guys say the MG24 plastic hull is???

gr8evo
03-20-2014, 07:08 PM
How tough would you guys say the MG24 plastic hull is???
It's not that strong..I had blow over at 56 or so and split it open and sank..it runs great for what it is.

gr8evo
03-20-2014, 07:12 PM
see the difference between you and me is, the twin turbo lambo is really sitting in my garage..

Haters hate lol..don't make me make another vid when I get home from vaca with the lambo and make you look stupid again..


haha, more like:

113224

gr8evo
03-20-2014, 07:23 PM
Sure the car is super fun to drive.. Thing is this was not a store bought twin turbo kit..I did all the efi setup and tuning witch is fun to me.. I am now getting ready to pull the motor to build it to handle more hp..in case you haven't noticed I love toys and pushing them to the edge.



It would be more fun to play with a Lambo while driving down the road, no?

tjdabomb
03-20-2014, 07:39 PM
Sure the car is super fun to drive.. Thing is this was not a store bought twin turbo kit..I did all the efi setup and tuning witch is fun to me.. I am now getting ready to pull the motor to build it to handle more hp..in case you haven't noticed I love toys and pushing them to the edge.

"witch is fun to me"

Too bad you didn't push your education to the edge. LOL

If you in fact do own a lambo and you are not just a floor sweeper in the garage where the lambo is parked (far more likely), a certain quote from an american classic movie comes to mind:

American Graffiti, "Toad" is driving a mint 58 chevy that belonged to the Ron Howard character in the movie. "Toad" is cruising down a street in the 58, car pulls up next to him, two guys he knows are in the car and say "Toad... is that you in that beautiful car???? What a waste of machinery....." :buttrock:

vio con dios, cabron

ray schrauwen
03-20-2014, 07:55 PM
Anyone??


How tough would you guys say the MG24 plastic hull is???

tlandauer
03-20-2014, 08:25 PM
Anyone??
Forget it, Ray, this thread is going nowhere, I was hoping for an answer on that as well, also very soon it's going to get ugly. ( It already has gotten to that point, IMO) I truly don't know why sometimes these things happen. :noidea:
Not that it's my thread, but yes, I am bothered with such exchange.
Unsubscribed ! :mad:

trimarc geico
03-20-2014, 10:26 PM
not that tough . kinda flimsy. but nice and smooth compared to the 29. 55-60 really all its got b4 liftoff lol imo

tjdabomb
03-21-2014, 12:44 AM
Anyone??

Ray, well, how tough do you need it to be?? What would you want to accomplish with it, speed/endurance wise?? I haven't seen a 24 with the stock rudder that turns worth a darn, so as long as ya keep it under 55 (unless perfect conditions) and don't try to turn fast, the issue of "tough enough" won't matter.

If you look at the 29 threads, there are a lot of guys that race the 29 every weekend, lotsa 4s w/x642 setups. Does that mean the hull is "tough"? I dunno, I guess it depends on your definition of tough. I am not sure what the difference is btwn the 24 and 29 in terms of hull material and reinforcing. I have read about 40-50 mph crashes that break things and those that don't. I suppose if one wanted to make the hull stronger, that could be accomplished with a fab of metal screen and marine epoxy, though, haven't heard of anyone doing that.

But, as was said earlier, these RTR's can be bought for less than a c note on ebay. If one had a motor and esc laying around, it could be hopped up cheaply and quickly, and if it breaks, get another!!:olleyes:

gr8evo
03-22-2014, 10:56 AM
The 24 has lots of flex.. I am trying to reinforce it with some carbon I had left over from a Daytona build. I don't know if the epoxy will take to the plastic but this hull was trash anyway.. I want to have one with stock outdrive etc on 4s(50-55) and the beater for 6s. Goal is to hit 60+..it's going to be a one hit wonder that's for sure.

Does anyone know if the 29 is glass?

tjdabomb
03-22-2014, 01:36 PM
The 24 has lots of flex.. I am trying to reinforce it with some carbon I had left over from a Daytona build. I don't know if the epoxy will take to the plastic but this hull was trash anyway.. I want to have one with stock outdrive etc on 4s(50-55) and the beater for 6s. Goal is to hit 60+..it's going to be a one hit wonder that's for sure.

Does anyone know if the 29 is glass?

Marine epoxy sticks to this hull like glue - it is the material of choice for blueprinting the sponsons: http://www.rcchiefhobbies.com/Tutorials.html

29 hull type (from horizon hobby website): Fiberglass composite hull provides extreme rigidity even in the roughest of water conditions

two geese attacked my 24 at the lake yesterday, caused it to run aground on an small island. had to reel it off with a fishing pole. :frusty: Got 42mph on 5s, 1500kv, prb4019 before then though - calmer conditions but still couldn't go full throttle, too much chop, too many fishermen taking up real estate.

gr8evo
03-31-2014, 09:19 AM
For the record the stock mg24 is a .150 flex cable.



Len - I have no way of measuring the shaft, though, I did come across another thread on this site where a user did measure the shaft to be 0.147"/3.78mm. I guess rounding up is in order, which, would make this shaft/my shaft be .150" Isnt' .150" the same size as the mg29 shaft?? Thanks for the link to the spacer. I am thinking that this shaft from Kintec would give me everything I need:

BlackJack29, Miss Geico, Mystic Upgrade Shaft: "Perfectly balanced. Cut to length. Soldered end for better collet grip. Machined drive dog slot. .150 cable x 3/16 shaft. Complete unit with stainless drive dog, jam nut, prop nut and teflon liner. Has a 10-32 thread." http://kintecracing.com/Miss_Geico_Upgrades.html Thoughts??


Sure would be nice if all the parts specifications would be online for these boats.......just sayin.....