ML Boatworks, PX335 O/B Tunnel, 33.75" FE , frame up design like the PX/NX300 kits!

[cybercrxt]

Well, another new tunnel in the stable. This hull is based off the excellent running PX 300 P-limited FE and NX300 Nitro, both 30" hulls. If some of you do not know, my whole tunnel boat lineup is now a frame up design, which means no more difficult wood over foam.

This lineup will also include a 39.5" FE tunnel called the QX400 which I am building now, and there will also be a 32", 35" and 39.5" lineup for the nitro engines. If you have a flat board, and a sanding block, you can build these tunnels! Now, I have posted most of the build here, but you may want to see the intlwaters thread too. My test hull has an OS lower unit, Neu 1521 1.5d motor, Castle Ice esc, and (2) 4s, 45c 3300mah Hyperion packs for 6600mah total. The boat runs silky smooth in the straights, and through the turns. Its my favorite boat, yes boat) I have built to date. It handles the speed very very well! Went ahead and added all the info, but there may be more info on the Intlwaters thread, please visit this link:
http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showtopic=56931&st=0


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130706_194521_zpsd0902244.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130706_194536_zpsd7248005.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130706_194617_zpsab01cb43.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130706_210759_zps13fcd0ce.jpg

[cybercrxt]

First, here is a few pics of most of the kits vital parts:

Sponson framework:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130620_184814_zps4051e984.jpg

Sponson sheeting:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_063715_zpse641c4d3.jpg

Center section upper and lower pans, forward to aft members, radio box sides, and internal framing:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_063558_zpse0af5d98.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130620_184822_zps683a7d4c.jpg

[cybercrxt]

The first thing I will suggest, is a tool Phil Thomas told me about a few years ago, a Stanley Sur-form. If you don't have one of these $7 tools..GET ONE, it has changed my boat building life! It is by far the easiest way to avoid breaking through layers of plywood while trying to sand 90 degree surfaces flush.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130620_193408_zpsb9956253.jpg

First thing you will want to do, is grab sponson crossmembers #1L (there will be a frame with holes, and one with out) and #1R (same as left side, one with holes, one without), and glue them together. This makes up the sponson transom plates:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130620_185044_zps7c1482f5.jpg

Now find your sponson Keelsons (the long inside edge of the sponsons), lay them on your flat board, clamp them down, then start dry fitting your sponson internal framing (All framing has numbers, and an R for right, and an L for left that match with number on the sponson keelson plates), and then put the sponson outside edge (sponson shear) in place like this:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130620_185533_zps3bf9eb7f.jpg

As you can see, that outside sponson shear will lot into the crossmembers, forcing the parts to be 90 degrees to the keelson..Its almost fool proof!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130620_185540_zpsfd0d35c1.jpg

Now glue the nosing, one above, and one below the sponson shear at the front of the sponson:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_170447_zps408b4fbd.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Now you can use your Stanley sur form for the first time, and flush in the lower edge of the outside sheeting like so:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130620_193431_zps02d92fb8.jpg

And finish sand with a sanding block and 180 grit to smooth it:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130620_193744_zpsaa7faeae.jpg

Next, glue on your sponson non trip sheeting. The pictures below show it already sanded in flush, you will have overhang on each side...once glued, go ahead and use your stanley sur form and flush in each edge.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_060827_zpsbb1f9d99.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_060818_zpsb3e84661.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_060835_zps2cb1f454.jpg

Now, I suggest getting something to elevate your sponson from the building board, as you are going to want the inside ride pad edge to overhang so you can sand it properly after installed. I used (2) 3/16"x 3/16" basswood, layed them on my building board, then clamped the assembly down:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_060843_zps07b2e355.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Now, find your ride pads, and dry fit them, and what you want to look for is excessive overhang on either side. On the outside edge, it is critical to sand improper overhang before gluing. This outside edge stay blunt, and if you install it without checking for a nice clean blunt edge that runs parrallel to the non trip surface, you may have some areas you cannot sand clean later. I just marked my ride pad where I felt it needed sanding down, and sanded it on a disc sander. :

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_060859_zps48d55055.jpg

Your ride pad outside edge should resemble this after gluing. You will notice the inside edge has a lot of over hang, and the outside edge is very clean and tight against the non trip all the way forward:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_061313_zpsc093155e.jpg

Once you have the ride pad glued, now remove the clamps, and sand the inside edge with the sur form like this:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_062621_zpsa5053a8b.jpg

Now, Mark on your ride pad from the inside edge, outward, 1-3/8" in two locations. One at the sponson transom, and one around 10" forward. This will ensure your secondary ride pad is parallel to the primary pad that is already installed:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_062016_zpsf8602441.jpg

You can see where I am pointing to the dot that is around 10" forward:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_062029_zpsd69b1437.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Once the primary pad is marked, you can now dry fit your secondary ride pad:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130621_062058_zps644d4423.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130621_062240_zps5483a642.jpg

Here you see the overlap of the secondary pad on the inside edge.. I suggest removing some of that...leave some overhang, but removing some with a saw now, will make your sur form sanding shorter once the secondary pad is glued in place:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130621_062315_zps576a1648.jpg

You can see I marked leaving make 1/8" overhang:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130621_062330_zps80ce6b02.jpg

Now you can see where I marked a line all the way forward so I had a guide while sawing:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130621_062439_zps543d64f2.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Now that you are done with the dry fitting, reclamp your sponson to the flat board, with the elevated platform so you can glue your secondary pad:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_062548_zps35faab55.jpg

Add some CA, and line up the secondary pad with the dots you put on your primary ride pad earlier, and bond:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_062903_zps7492721a.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_062913_zps18b526ef.jpg

Now sand away that overhang of the secondary pad:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_062956_zps4ab9f257.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_063006_zps9e639429.jpg

[cybercrxt]

And your finished ride surface should look like this. Repeat all the above sponson steps with your other sponson. We will glue the sponson top deck later.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_063339_zps0a35c140.jpg

Its a good idea to store the sponson clamped together until you are ready to epoxy the interior...like this:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_200521_zpsee320ea1.jpg


OK, so lets move to the center section. Gather all the center section parts, and lay them out. The pics in the 2nd post should have familiarized you with the parts. We will start by dry fitting a few things:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_221003_zps5f9860f6.jpg

Once you are get a feeling for how the crossmembers fit, it is time to laminate a few parts. The transom plates A1, A2, A3, and A4 will be bonded together first:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_222046_zps94af3be1.jpg

There are also two plates labeled "H" that make the forward nose of the center section...glue them together too:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_221024_zps98647975.jpg

Then you will have a double layered radio box/ center frame. Bond like the following for each side:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_222443_zpsbc1a208e.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Another shot of the center frames...note, only one side is bonded in this pic:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_222449_zpsd4efebb5.jpg

Now, dry fit the transom plates, frame B, frame G, and the radio box sides..once dry fit, insert the assembly into the floor pan toy tabs, only checking for fitment at this time:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_223956_zps5861e6d2.jpg

At this time, tape the front area of the radio box, just to keep it secure, and it is now time to bond plate "H" to the floor pan like this:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_224338_zpsb2332f4e.jpg

While your dry fitted assembly is still loose, insert a 1/8" x 1/8" basswood stick in the location I am pointing too:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_225616_zps04e4a30b.jpg

I now suggest clamping your pan down so that it is good and flat agains the flat board. Keeping the floor pan flat, without a twist will be key to your build. If the center is twisted, the sponsons will not lay flat on the board later on!
You can now start inserting the other crossmembers:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_225854_zpsaecb4369.jpg

[cybercrxt]

It is now time to slowly glue all the crossmembers, and radio box plates down, being sure all is square. Once you have those bonded, you can start putting in the radio box lid parts. Having them installed will help minimize twisting of the assembly, making the rest of the center section build a little easier.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_231645_zps07e807b5.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_231651_zps87041137.jpg

The lid and tab. If you haven't noticed by now, there were two tabs in the kit. One for the hatch, one to support the rear area where the hatch lays down on.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_231656_zps8348f0f4.jpg

I also ran some 1/8" x 1/8" basswood sticks down each side of the radio box for extra strength:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_232103_zps0688d7e2.jpg

and tape it shut for now, and add the upper piece of 1/8" x 1/8" basswood stick:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_232958_zps950c00f0.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Now add this piece of 1/8" x 1/8" basswood:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_233129_zps81fc8b0e.jpg

And add the outer side plates, and remaining 1/8" x 1/8" basswood stick. Please note, the kit offered will not have all the crossmembers protruding through the outside side plate...this was an error on my part!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_234833_zps08569b0b.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130621_234843_zps5021c7f2.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Now test fit your sponsons to center section toy tabing. It should lock right in!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_082044_zps12b49499.jpg

On the final kit, I have gone back and added 1/8" x 1/8" slots in the center of the top of the crossmembers so a basswood stick can run forward to aft. I added this to my kit as it helps keep the sponson from twisting.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_084612_zps67027a17.jpg

Now we are to the epoxy stage for the sponsons. My first suggestion, is to put masking tape on the inside sponson plate (keelson), this will help keep epoxy from leaking through and bonding your sponsons to your building board! You can also cut up some fiberglass cloth or carbon fiber and lay it in your ride surface area before epoxying.



http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_090637_zps8cff19ab.jpg

I also suggest adding some floatation to the inside of the sponsons, and center section. Here is what I used:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_090648_zps5522e557.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_090655_zps3a9d6709.jpg

Once you have coated the inside of your sponsons with epoxy, and pushed the foam floatation into place, I highly recommend clamping you sponson back on the flat board.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_094155_zps9ec0cfcc.jpg

[cybercrxt]

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_094255_zpsf0649b40.jpg

Now that your sponsons are drying, its a good time to finish up the final sanding on the center section framing where the center top deck will bond...this means its time to use a sander to bevel the front nose so the deck will lay down:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_095013_zpsbcd47639.jpg

Then, take some scrap 1/8" basswood stick, and cut it up, and add it to the crossmembers at the top. This will increase your bonding strength when epoxying the top deck down:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_095727_zps4a514aec.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_100155_zpsf4e9e2d9.jpg

Now cut some foam for your center section floatation:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_100730_zpsf5336920.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Now, add some masking tape to the bottom, covering the toy tab slots..to remove the chance of epoxy bonding your center section to the building board!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_101345_zps46190365.jpg

Its also time to trim the foam around the dowel rods (you can either add, or dont add the dowel rods, they are your choice. 5/16" dowel or brass tubing is required). After you are happy with your dowel and foam, remove them, epoxy the inside, and replace..you will end up with this:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_102645_zps6eca536c.jpg

While the center section interior epoxy is still wet, its time to epoxy the bottom side of the top deck, and tape it down on the center section framework. I also like to use CA around where the top deck touches the radio box. Its hard to get tape to hold that area properly..a touch of CA in that area will ensure your deck stays in place while drying. Remember to clamp and weigh down your center section corners, and middle..remember, keep it from being twisted as once the top deck drys you cannot remove any twist!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_103712_zps4cb6f657.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_103719_zps8d6d1894.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Now do a dry fit clamping of the sponsons and center section once the parts are dryed. Just look over the bond seam between the 3 parts and make sure its nice and clean, and take a 90 degree angle and check the tunnel to sponson fitment..should be good and square..if not, your center section top deck may be pushing the sponson out of place...check it over:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_133549_zpsb8c383a0.jpg

another view
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_133601_zpsb6f8e969.jpg

While dryfitted, check and make sure your sponson inside edges are nice and flush to the building board. If not, look check for twist in your center section, or if your ride pad is not sanded properly.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_133609_zpsa1a16dca.jpg

Make sure its 90 degrees and square!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_133849_zps6096fddb.jpg

While clamped you should go ahead and bond the stumble pad to the bottom of the center section...DO NOT bond the stumble pad to the sponson yet..just have it pushed up against it. You will be gluing that surface when you permanantly bond the sponsons to the center section later.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_133855_zps2b39f8b8.jpg

The trailing edge of the stumble pad will need to be around 17.25" forward of the sponson transom. This applies only to the PX335..... The PX300 and NX300 is 16.2". The QX400 will be determined soon.

[cybercrxt]

See how the stumble pads stay bonded to the center section, but not the sponson at this time:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_134105_zpsa118b8d0.jpg

Now its time to bond the sponson top decks: This is the most critical part of the build besides the center section top deck. If you have a twist in the sponson after the top deck is on..the twist stays!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_135348_zpsac7337cc.jpg

In preparation for the top deck bonding, you will again want to put down a riser on the flat board. This will allow you to clamp down your sponsons while the top deck sheeting drys, ensuring the sponsons do not get twist while you tape the decks on!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_135522_zps246a0c0a.jpg

Epoxy the decks on, tape them to the sponsons, and put them on the riser, and gently clamp in areas that do not affect the top deck.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130622_142049_zps2c047ce9.jpg

Once the sponson decks are dry, using your sur form, and sanding block and clean up all the outside edges:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130623_184121_zpsbd6f8db7.jpg

[cybercrxt]

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130623_184135_zps03398145.jpg

add epoxy on the bonding area between the center section, clamp the 3 parts, double check with your 90degree angle to be sure the sponsons to tunnel are at 90 degrees, make sure your ride surfaces lay nice and flat on the building board..from the sponson transom, to around 11" or so forward. If you have more than maybe 1/32" gap, I would really look over your kit and see what is causing that before doing the final bonding of the 3 parts.

Here is the hull after clamps removed (I used the same clamping technique as you saw a few posts above while dry fitting the 3 parts):
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130623_201624_zpse35b401c.jpg

And finally bond your air brakes:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130623_203013_zps42bcafc7.jpg

Another shot of the finished product. Now you will need to bead seal with epoxy and silica all the way around the bonding area of the sponsons to the center section. Once that has dryed slightly, you can brush the rest of the hull with epoxy sealing coats. I will have pics of that this week when I add the bead seal and epoxy. So far, only 7-8 hours have been spent on this build..not to bad! Keep an eye on the thread. For now, this is all!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130623_203023_zpsdfc877af.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Woke up early and worked on seam sealing the critical areas. You can see from the pics were I taped off so the West systems mixed with Silica would be easier to focus in the corners. This step is worth the tape and time as it makes for a much cleaner bead.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130625_063053_zps29a34eb3.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130625_063058_zps4f9b4cf1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130625_063110_zps739c6b1c.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130625_063120_zps728b63e0.jpg

The thickened mixture of West Systems 105 w/ 205 hardener, and 406 Silica

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130625_063330_zpsb3b1efeb.jpg

[cybercrxt]

You can kind of see the bead in the seams. When I get home today, I will scuff the bead (since I was not home around an hour after applying the silica mix) and apply the first coat of west systems 105/ 205 epoxy on the exterior. You can also see I did however epoxy the inside of the radio box
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130625_070410_zpsd32253b8.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130625_070417_zps7166ef08.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Starting to get things done on the tunnel. Hull is cleared, cowling was in basecoat in the pic, its now clearcoated, however the satin black is awesome looking! Should have done the whole boat like that. Neu 1521 1.5d motor, gonna just use my old Hydra 240 as its already set up with this motor and has bullets on it already. May switch to an Ice controller later. Getting a lot done during this long weekend! Enjoy, Mike

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130706_121620_zpsadf45265.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130706_121627_zpsf552c5f0.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130705_194455_zpse739c45c.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Some pics of the finished boat. Neu 1521 1.5d, Castle Ice ESC, OS lower, Hyperion 4s 45c 3300mah packs:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130706_194521_zpsd0902244.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130706_194536_zpsd7248005.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130706_194617_zpsab01cb43.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335%20Instructions/20130706_210759_zps13fcd0ce.jpg

[Brushless55]

I dig it!
how big of packs will fit this hull?
thanks

[cybercrxt]

Hey Brushless,

I am currently doing (2) 4s 3300mah 45c hyperions, however I could see getting (2) 4s 4200mah 45c packs, possibly two 5000mah packs, or if you needed to go 5s or 6s lipo I could see possibly getting (2) 6s 3300mah packs in there..Its gonna depend on your esc setup in all honesty. 6600mah is a gracious plenty in this hull tho, anything bigger is just not really needed. Mike

PS, I am working on a 39.5" hull called the QX400 as well...that will have a LOT of room if you need more!

[Grazacind]

Mike the boat looks great. I am taking the QS370 out SAW racing this weekend.

I will have to chat about a drop sponson lauterbech kit one of these days

Cheers mate and hope to see you down this way one day.

[cybercrxt]

Andrew, Let me know how it goes! What motor setup will you be using?

[mattmak]

such a nice boat. want.

[Grazacind]

Andrew, Let me know how it goes! What motor setup will you be using?

Mike I will be using a Castle 1520 1600kv on 6s then moving up to a 1518 1800kv on 6s.

See how it goes from there.

[Brushless55]

I've got a 1527 1D that could rock this on 4s I think :spy:

[cybercrxt]

Andrew, those are good motor choices. Brushless, im sure that will get the job done...with ease...., but that motor, even only at 4s power would be stout on the 39.5" QX400 i am building right now.

[cybercrxt]

I thought some of you might like this. For the first time ever, all 4 size tunnels next to each other, from left to right, GS480, QX400, PX335, PX/NX300:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130711_062350_zpsab06ecd1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130711_062423_zps2944ecc1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130711_062435_zpsa65cd1f2.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Here are some pics of the new QX400 39.5" Q FE powered tunnel. This is the first one built, and I will be doing initial testing with a Castle 1717 1650kv on 5s for oval and 6s for saws (may add a 1524 1.5d 1700kv for SAW's in a month or so).

As is stands right now, I have the following O/B full frame up tunnel kits with all the new sponson technology available:

For FE:
PX300- 30" P-limited
PX335- 33.5" Full P FE
QX400 39.5" Q FE

For Nitro:
NX300- 30" stock .21
NX320- 32" mod .21 (in design now)
NX350- 35" stock .45 (in design now)
NX400- 39.5" mod .45

For Gas:
GX480- 48" Gas/ 1.01 nitro/ 8-10s FE. Just finished this design. The base hull is the incredible GS480 that has proven itself the last few years. The new sponson design was added, center section was redone to change overall weight, and full frame up design added. New Carbon Fiber cowling is now available. I will be running one as an FE for 8 and 10s SAW trials as soon as I get time. See pics of the new cowling on the GS480 build below. It comes pretrimmed and ready to fit your existing GS480 and the new GX480!

Here is the new QX400:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX-NX300 Instructions/20130806_065338_zps1a900e33.jpg

Shot of the QX400, NX300 and PX300 frame up hulls:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX-NX300 Instructions/20130804_201621_zps7ee5c716.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX-NX300 Instructions/20130804_201652_zps2a5c722c.jpg

The new plug I am making for the QX400, NX350 and NX400 hulls. It is an extended version of the cowling used on the smaller tunnels so they will all match!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX-NX300 Instructions/20130804_185026_zps6f2e37f2.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX-NX300 Instructions/20130804_185043_zps1db2a3a2.jpg

[cybercrxt]

And here is the new cowling available for the 48" gas tunnels! Its available in 3 different layup options..The full carbon fiber one that is pictured being the most awesome! haha

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/GS480/20130729_121059_zpscd01911e.jpg

As you can see, prefitted to the deck curvature. It even includes a carbon tongue for the bottom side! All vacuum bagged.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130729_180350_zpsd64e950d.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130729_180432_zps5ba24fe9.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-PX335 Instructions/20130729_180502_zps15288b89.jpg

[cybercrxt]

Oh, I forgot to mention I am now doing builds for customers again, mainly the GP sport hydros and the O/B tunnels from my lineup! Let me know if you need one built. Mike

[tlandauer]

:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::drool::drool::drool:
What can I say?!

[cybercrxt]

OK, so the PX335 has been tested, and runs great. I am not finishing up the first QX400 build, 39.5" tunnel, and hope to get it in a large pond this Sunday with Dick Loeb. If I get it dialed in, I will be posting some videos of both boats. Here is the rigging on both hulls so far. The PX335 has a 1521 1.5d, and the QX400 has a 1717 1y. Both boats will also be running at the SAW's in November, where I have some lofty goals planned out. More time this year to get things dialed in than in previous years.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-QX400 Instructions Center Section/20130904_071049_zps8c13bc41.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-QX400 Instructions Center Section/20130904_071056_zps0b00f3d3.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-QX400 Instructions Center Section/20130904_071104_zps1d5bc084.jpg

Its messy right now as nothing is in there permanently. I will be using 5s2p 9000mah for heat setup, and 6s2p 6600mah for SAW. For now, just a single 6500mah 5s1p will be used for testing until my new packs arrive.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-QX400 Instructions Center Section/20130904_071203_zpsde1a53dc.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-QX400 Instructions Center Section/20130904_071207_zps9ce624b4.jpg

The PX335 will run 4s2p, 7200mah as the final setup. Initial testing was with 4s2p 6600mah.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/spoonefcrx/1-QX400 Instructions Center Section/20130904_071305_zpsf8b69fce.jpg

[Darin Jordan]

Mike, you big TEASE! THESE THINGS LOOK GREAT!!!

[cybercrxt]

Haha, Thanks Darin.

Man, I have been trying to get someone to go out to the pond with me for a video of the PX335 as I knew you were interested, hopefully this weekend I can get that to happen. The boat runs awesome. Hopefully the QX400 will run just as well. My initial goal for heat trim with the QX400 is 63-65mph, and SAW I have a goal of 80mph in mind. I have wanted to be the first to get in the books at 80mph for years, and this QX platform is capable, so we will see.

Mike

[Darin Jordan]

My initial goal for heat trim with the QX400 is 63-65mph, and SAW I have a goal of 80mph in mind. I have wanted to be the first to get in the books at 80mph for years, and this QX platform is capable, so we will see.

Mike

Sweet! That's a fun sized OPC as well...

[cybercrxt]

So the QX400, 39.5" hull on 5s or 6s is legal for namba OPC? I never looked at the rules, but always assumed it was 4s, 34" max which is why I did the PX335 (well, for IMPBA too!)

Mike

[Brushless55]

Love to bring the PX335 to namba20, and start a new class

[Darin Jordan]

So the QX400, 39.5" hull on 5s or 6s is legal for namba OPC? I never looked at the rules, but always assumed it was 4s, 34" max which is why I did the PX335 (well, for IMPBA too!)

Mike

Mike, According to the rules, we have P-Ltd OPC, P-OPC, and T-OPC all available for records...

d) Records
i) OPC records can be set in the P-Limited, P and T Power
Specifications.

Based on the current rulebook, T is "15.1V - 40.0V", so 5S - 10S would run in T...

[NUZUM]

Nice build thread ordering mine Monday !!