Bow weight a band-aid?

[Shane_744]

Been running my MG and tuning on it. The front end lifts at full throttle. I managed to flip it this evening but I think everything is on. Lost the clear hatch.

I have the Kintec offset rudder setup, kintec drive shaft, CNC 43mm x 2.38
Pitch prop. Seaking 180 with a Leopard 4082
2000kv on 4s.

Strut is moved up to where the prop is a few mm from the bracket.

Ive been moving the batteries around and moved the strut a time or two. Still getting pretty good lift up front to where the prop is the only thing is in the water.

So long question, short. Will some additional weight help up in front of the motor? Or keep working at the strut setup?

This evenings pic.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/banutu7e.jpg

[Heaving Earth]

If you set the boat on a table how much gap between bottom of strut and table top?
From what I've noticed, when the prop is too deep on cats, it tends to dig in and want to flip the boat.

[BHChieftain]

You want the strut up high-- my son's GEICO is set with prop shaft about 3/16 above the bottom of the strut but you need a bit of negative angle on the prop shaft. You need to grind some extra space in the strut adjustment slot to allow that. Look at my miss GEICO thread for more info.

Chief

Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk 2

[BHChieftain]

PS, adding weight to the bow will just make bouncing worse. My sons packs are a bit behind the front of the motor.

Chief


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[Chilli]

Where is your CG at? What is the angle of the strut?? Put a little negative in it (down in back) to keep the nose down. Pushing the strut back down will also lift the rear which will keep then nose down but it will put more load on the motor.

[Shane_744]

Thanks guys. I have the strut hole enlarged. Been reading alot and made some nice changes to the boat from this forum.

Here is where the strut is at now.
The front end lift seems to get worse when i move the batteries back, with this strut setup. I couldnt move the batteries forward cause i flipped it and soaked everything.

Not sure about my CG just yet. I need to read up on how to do that.

Right now the stuffing tube wont let me point the driveshaft down without binding it up. I have bent the tube a little to get where im at now. I may need to make the strut adjustment hole
Larger and see if that is where its limiting out.

Edit. Looking at some other pictures of MG struts mine is too level as it sits?
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/syje6a8e.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/3ehe8ube.jpg

[Heaving Earth]

Just raise the strut up higher and try. Forget about angle for now

[Shane_744]

Ok. Prop is about 2mm from the bracket. Grind away some clearance if needed to raise it further?

[Heaving Earth]

Lemme guess the prop is almost hitting? Get it as high as possible. The inline rudders really suck if you ask me. There's one reason why right there

[BHChieftain]

I think this looks pretty good to start, I would not go any lower... my son's boat is about this high but has a tad more negative angle on the prop shaft. With lite chop he has no bounce at all, and on glass water has a slow bounce (means the ride pads need to be blueprinted, but the boat races in p-limited offshore which generates enough chop to break the suction so we have not bothered with that). You'll need to grind the adjustment slot to make room to adjust the prop shaft down more, and you'll very gently need to bend the stuffing tube to align it (be careful!!!).

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?41146-Miss-Geico-dialed-in-strut-modification

Before messing with that like Heaving Earth says try the full upper range with the max neg angle you can muster for now.

Chief

[Shane_744]

Thanks guys.

heaving, im running the kintec offset but I may cut a triangle off the rest of the stock bracket to be safe so the prop wont be close.
Doesn't make sense to me to use the offset rudder setup if the prop is going to be close to the bracket. I thought the point of the offset was to get the rudder out of the prop wash cone? So with the prop still being close to the bracket cause its moved up, the bracket is in that prop
Wash cone. Anyways, just thinking out loud.

Chief,
I figured I would need to grind more on the strut
Hole to move it further. Ill try that this evening. Im maxed out on negative angle now.

[Heaving Earth]

Uhm, ya lost me a bit there, but IMO the offset rudder has many advantages.
1 the rudder is out of the prop wash
2 it makes getting the flexshaft out for lubrication easier
3 takes the bracket out of the way for moving prop up
Now, with that said, I know that even with the offset, the bracket still has overhang that gets in the way. If it were me, I would remove any excess bracket above the prop not needed, and get that strut up like 3/16 to 1/4" above bottom of sponsons.
Maybe drill new holes for the offset closer, and cut away all that overhang?

[SloHD]

Uhm, ya lost me a bit there, but IMO the offset rudder has many advantages.
1 the rudder is out of the prop wash
2 it makes getting the flexshaft out for lubrication easier
3 takes the bracket out of the way for moving prop up
Now, with that said, I know that even with the offset, the bracket still has overhang that gets in the way. If it were me, I would remove any excess bracket above the prop not needed, and get that strut up like 3/16 to 1/4" above bottom of sponsons.
Maybe drill new holes for the offset closer, and cut away all that overhang?

I swear I've seen a post with pictures somewhere that some guys just rounded off the bottom corner of the mount. I don't think it's on this site tho. It's the same hardware I chose for my elam so I need to do it as well...

[Shane_744]

Uhm, ya lost me a bit there, but IMO the offset rudder has many advantages.
1 the rudder is out of the prop wash
2 it makes getting the flexshaft out for lubrication easier
3 takes the bracket out of the way for moving prop up
Now, with that said, I know that even with the offset, the bracket still has overhang that gets in the way. If it were me, I would remove any excess bracket above the prop not needed, and get that strut up like 3/16 to 1/4" above bottom of sponsons.
Maybe drill new holes for the offset closer, and cut away all that overhang?

I was referring to the fact that we go to all the effort to get the rudder out of the prop wash but the strut bracket is now millimeters from the prop (propwash). I am curious if the prop being that close the bracket effects the prop wash "cone" properties. Or does it even matter if things are in the prop wash "cone" behind it?

I have cut marks on the rear of the bracket now. Will drilling new holes and moving the rudder closer to the hull have any positive or negative effects?


I swear I've seen a post with pictures somewhere that some guys just rounded off the bottom corner of the mount. I don't think it's on this site tho. It's the same hardware I chose for my elam so I need to do it as well...

I have seen a few too. Through OSE and google image searches.

[Shane_744]

This is where I am at now. To get the prop to have some negative angle the stuffing tube and lower strut are not jiving now. I tweaked the stuffing tube before but it seems like it wont bend to the correct position now. Almost like I will need to trim some off the end of the tube
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/01/8ejasu2e.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/01/tera4apy.jpg

[SloHD]

Just try to bend it some more. Make sure you be gentle. As you probably already know. Fwiw my mystic doesn't like quite that much angle. Try a little less angle. Also give some more space between the strut and the drive dog. Spacing there should be about the size of your flex shaft. Just pull it out about 1/8"+ from where its at now.

What prop is that?

[Shane_744]

Just try to bend it some more. Make sure you be gentle. As you probably already know. Fwiw my mystic doesn't like quite that much angle. Try a little less angle. Also give some more space between the strut and the drive dog. Spacing there should be about the size of your flex shaft. Just pull it out about 1/8"+ from where its at now.

What prop is that?

The prop was pushed up all the way forward to make sure i clearanced the strut bracket enough.
This prop recommended by Steven.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=cnc-4314250

[lenny]

Hi,
Why do you have two nut on the prop shaft ?
If you take one off that would let you move the drive dog back some,
And that would give you the gap you need at the strut and dog.
Also do you have any pictures of the lay out of the setup in the hull with the cells in place,
Like for rtr at the lake ?

[1truckerdan]

Looks like he is using the 2 nuts to "lock" them together so it stays tight.
Looks like there is enough thread left to move the drive dog back some and keep both nuts on

[Shane_744]

Hi,
Why do you have two nut on the prop shaft ?
If you take one off that would let you move the drive dog back some,
And that would give you the gap you need at the strut and dog.
Also do you have any pictures of the lay out of the setup in the hull with the cells in place,
Like for rtr at the lake ?

I dunno, there were two nuts with the new setup so I assumed they were supposed to go like that Lol. Ill need to research why they sent two nuts.
Ill get a few pics of the battery setup soon.

[SloHD]

It's called a jam nut. It comes with the kintec upgrade shaft. Although when I ordered one a few months ago he didn't put one on with mine. I just use a normal ose prop nut, and an octura bullet.

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv147/thewilsons888/65345890-EA4E-4B0A-90D1-6AD0D5E81C10-15216-00001989CCBF0130.jpg

[lenny]

I never used jam nut on any of my boats,
Just a nut or a small piece of fuel line to hold the prop on for speed run testing and sport running.

[Shane_744]

Kintec was out of the bullet prop nuts when I got my order.

Here is about where my batteries go. I have moved them all the back and up to about where they sit in this pic.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/01/e8a2uqyj.jpg

[lenny]

They look like short packs,
Try them a with the balance wires at the middle of the water jacket.

[Shane_744]

They look like short packs,
Try them a with the balance wires at the middle of the water jacket.

They are these packs.
http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/lipo-batteries/2s-lipo/50c-5000mah-2s-hard-case.html

I tried moving them up but not after I have done the strut mod. Been letting the boat dry out all day and have to epoxy a broken battery tray.

I started this thread really to see if I needed to add more weight up in front of the motor because moving them backwards was resulting in more lift. But I think My strut angle needs readjusted too. Working on that. Then ill play with battery locations.