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TheShaughnessy
06-19-2013, 01:24 PM
Was just going to order the hrc but my buddy is a plumber and had a bunch of pipe laying around. I got 2" scrap off of him for free and already had the brass. After a little modifying I got the piece to fit with just a 2 mm gap all the way around. I cut two little pieces to use as shims on the front and back and also to allow the Cu to be in direct contact with the motor can for max heat transfer. I used silicon to seal it up. Just tested this morning and no leaks. Now all I have to do is install it and see if it cools better then AL. I couldn't extend it all the way to the wires because the extra diameter from the jacket would have been in the way with the mount I'm using.

Opinions welcome

boredom.is.me
06-19-2013, 02:11 PM
Nice. Pure Al is a much better heat conductor than Cu. Although this is really simple, design might be a huge factor. It's very pretty.

boredom.is.me
06-19-2013, 02:17 PM
My bad, I was thinking of brass. Al is much better than brass.

TheShaughnessy
06-19-2013, 02:21 PM
Yeah copper is one of the best conductors, only slightly better then AL though, then it goes silver and diamond being the best

ron1950
06-24-2013, 04:26 PM
hey...if it works go for it....looks good to me

Shooter
06-24-2013, 05:08 PM
Very very cool. If it is in contact, you will get a little conductive transfer to the copper. The water will be removing both heat from the motor can directly AND the copper that has aborbed heat via conduction.

I saw a helix milled into the ID of the can somewhere. The ID of the cooling can was in contact with the motor and the water would flow around the helical path.

The typical cooling cans that we have are rather pathetic (flow efficiency wise). In fact, I've seen some inputs right next to the outputs. The water is basically flowing in and out and not getting around the motor. Also, very important to have your output on TOP!!

TheShaughnessy
06-24-2013, 08:15 PM
Yep outlet is at the top of the motor. Motor is on an angle so I ended up using the rear nipple as the outlet so all the air gets pushed out and the jacket fills all the way with water.

I thought about rifling it or something to get the water to swirl or whatever but didn't think it would do much if anything at all

properchopper
08-05-2013, 04:24 PM
The typical cooling cans that we have are rather pathetic (flow efficiency wise). In fact, I've seen some inputs right next to the outputs. The water is basically flowing in and out and not getting around the motor. Also, very important to have your output on TOP!!


Excellent observation - You're so right. I routinely use larger-flow fittings and since I'm drilling/re-tapping I'll often move the inputs to a better place - you can see the plugged-off original input hole with the brass plug (the input is now on the bottom rear of the jacket [not seen] )

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Another situation is that the space between the output fitting and the absolute front of the can can house an air bubble. This area on spec motors where the wires enter the endbell is the hottest part and needs the most cooling to avoid meltdown

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I know about this "air bubble void"; on my motorcycle with the gas tank angled upward and the filler neck back some, the space between the filler neck and the front of the tank doesn't ever fill with gas (bad picture but you get the idea)

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I've often thought how informative it would be on this topic to get a clear water jacket (Ettie has them) and pump water through them with dye injected to see the actual flow path. Hmmmm...










Very very cool. If it is in contact, you will get a little conductive transfer to the copper. The water will be removing both heat from the motor can directly AND the copper that has aborbed heat via conduction.

I saw a helix milled into the ID of the can somewhere. The ID of the cooling can was in contact with the motor and the water would flow around the helical path.


The typical cooling cans that we have are rather pathetic (flow efficiency wise). In fact, I've seen some inputs right next to the outputs. The water is basically flowing in and out and not getting around the motor. Also, very important to have your output on TOP!!

Shooter
08-05-2013, 06:48 PM
Nice work moving the input!

Not quite a 'clear water jacket', but it proves the point about the air bubble at least!! First photo is a top exit. Second photo is a side exit.

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