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rhgraphix
06-07-2013, 01:09 PM
I have a Pursuit 32 - I am running a Leopard 4082 2200 motor, seaking 180A esc, flex cable, 4S2P 5000MAH batts

I am not looking for top speed as much as reliable and run time. I someone could tell me what size would be best for both options that would be awesome.

Thanks

tlandauer
06-08-2013, 04:26 AM
I run m445 and/or m545, same set up as yours. Good run time and low temp. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOGsqg8mdCM

lenny
06-08-2013, 08:56 AM
So Tim,:tiphat:
What speeds are you getting with that setup ?
Also did you gps the run in the video ?

rhgraphix
06-08-2013, 10:04 AM
Yeah what speeds are you getting. Also what runtime are you getting?

Thanks

lenny
06-08-2013, 11:59 AM
This is the second run on mine with a L 4074 1800kv SK180a esc and a modded m447,
Best speed so far with a p230 prop is 44 mph and about 5 minutes of run time on one 4s 40c 4000mah pack.
I am kicking around moving up in motor size and kv for it,
But not sure just yet.
I have a Nemesis Gold L 4082 2200kv to try and I also was thinking of trying it with a outrunner setup,
But not sure how well these hulls handle speeds above 50 mph.
Still need to do more home work and get more info about this pursuit hull and other setups that have been tested in it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=TVuStdUMKvs

tlandauer
06-08-2013, 08:55 PM
So Tim,:tiphat:
What speeds are you getting with that setup ?
Also did you gps the run in the video ?
:tiphat: Lenny,
As usual, I think you boat is running great. I love the m447 idea with a lower kv motor.
No, I didn't gps the run with my vid, I had gps'ed when I first got the boat and it was like 46-47mph. I was not running 4s2p then, the boat is a lot happier with 4s2p. My boat has expansion foam in the bow all the way to the mid deck, and the underside of the hatch is foamed as well, I can not take them out and I think no matter what I do, it's a bit heavy. The seller modded the motor mount as well, I was afraid to take the motor out, he told me it is 2200kv, I know for sure it is a Leopard 4082. I made a better battery tray and trimmed her out.
This boat is very stable, I like running her in big lakes , it had one of those Chinese stingers with a gap between the stinger bore and the bracket plate, I had a hell of time to get rid of water intrusion issue, once it was done correctly, now the hull is bone dry.

Heaving Earth
06-08-2013, 10:00 PM
Nice one Lenny! Nice spot to run at too

lenny
06-08-2013, 11:16 PM
Thanks,
And yes I have the same stinger with the gap.
But I just put a small piece of water in there when a I pull out the flex and liner,
I also put a small piece at the stuffing tube and flex at the coupler.
And that helped with the water coming in,
Also in that setup the motor and esc had 4mm bullets on them and the temps on the where 120f give or take,
That is what I am changing out right now to 5.5 and the setup will be happier when I test it again tomorrow.
I still need to make a water tight seal for the hatch and a way to lock it down.
For testing it was three pieces of 1" x 1" tape,
And I hate taping boats for testing and running.:ThumbsDown01:

TheShaughnessy
06-11-2013, 10:48 PM
here is a run i made today.


When i got the boat it had a small rudder on it and while it worked ok i suspected it might be the culprit for why i was hooking in the corners and spinning out.
I decided to get this rudder, 5 inch Rudder Offset Base w/ Dual water pickup from kintec racing, i ordered a new hatch for it too since i lost the one it came with and the one i'm using now is just some wood with a little capsule i made. the last thing i'm waiting on are some 4s 5000 mah dinogy batts from mark that i should have by the end of the week.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_Rru1RI5GE im using some 4s 5000 mah 20c turnigy cells that are a few seasons old, the gens ace batts i had in before seemed to have a little more pep, im excited to see what happens with the dinogy cells when i get them. motor is a castle 1515 1y, the black can version, i need to get a better water cooler for that too, i just have a crappy silicon one on right now. the last pass i make i manage to keep the trigger squeezed for most of the pass.

the prop im using gets things warm but its good for 2.5 min heats. Its a x646/3 i modded a little bit. I ordered a 447/3 from kintec but he sent me a 437/3 by mistake, i also picked up a new m445 since i lost my last one when i lost my fe30

lenny
06-11-2013, 11:10 PM
What where the temps after that run ?

TheShaughnessy
06-11-2013, 11:20 PM
i didn't check that run but the run before with the gens ace cells where i ran longer i was at 155 at the end bell, 130 on my caps and my connectors were up to 165, batts were kinda warm too at 130ish. i had the eagle tree in my geico hull today but i'll probably switch it over to the pursuit soon. only sucky thing is i cant seem to find one of my temp gauges, i have one that loops around the motor but i cant find it right now so im just using the micro temp sensor and have it taped to the motor near were the wires exit, doesn't bother me on my p ltd set up cause i know the esc isn't even breaking a sweat but i would like to have two temp sensors for the pursuit.

What i really need is the gps module, i feel almost lost not having one, hard to verify any improvements when you are just using your eyes. Been watching a unit in the swap shop but the seller doesn't want to separate right now.

lenny
06-11-2013, 11:43 PM
I just use a point and shoot temp gun and a blue Garmin etrex legend for speeds and time running.
That is not good temps to be at for those cells and that motor ether.
Also what connector are you using ?

rhgraphix
06-11-2013, 11:53 PM
First off I want to tell everyone thanks for all the great advice

Second...

What are good temps to run at for motor, connectors, batts?

lenny
06-12-2013, 12:53 AM
140* or lower on the motor and 120*or lower on the esc and cells I like 120* or lower,
The lower the temp the better, Outrunners will handle more heat like 170*.
Hears a link and try doing searches on hear for info to.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?38657-Motor-temp-reading
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?35755-What-kind-of-temps-should-I-be-running

TheShaughnessy
06-12-2013, 02:15 AM
Yeah like I said things were getting pretty warm, I just wanted to test out the new rudder and see the castle vs the hk4074 2000kv I had in it before. Once I get a proper jacket for the motor temps should come down. I have to have the exit only 65% up the motor so not only is it silicon but I don't think it's filling up all the way either. It's been 95+ out here for close to a week so the higher temps are to be expected. That's the hottest I've ever seen a pair of lipos. Im running 5.5 mm on everything. .187 single piece flex

TheShaughnessy
06-12-2013, 10:58 AM
I did some looking around and castle says the max temp you should see is 180f. Start getting hotter then that and the magnets start to demagnetize. So 155 is definitely hotter then I ideally want but I don't think it damaged the motor or anything.

TheShaughnessy
06-13-2013, 12:12 AM
update: I was able to run a couple more packs through it today with the same set up. Since its so hot here i decided to fill up a big water cooler with ice water and pre cool my electronics. Just hooked up a cooling tube from the jug to my cooling line in the boat and let it trickle though until the motor temp was down to 70 or so degrees, the esc was getting cooler faster then the motor so it was down to 60. Limiting my run time to 2.30 and doing the little cooling trick i was able to keep my temps in a much better range. Motor was only 125 esc at 115 and the batts were about the same, still seeing heat in the connectors but i can live with it, 150 isnt too bad and nothing is coming desoldered so...

still working out some bugs, I think i may need a new/stronger servo, boat doesn't want to respond much to left rudder input unless you let off the throttle and let the bow settle then you can get back in it, it seems fine to the right though. I also trimmed about a 1/2 inch off the rudder and rounded the bottom and leading edge at the bottom of the rudder. Didn't notice much if any difference from that though. This rudder is ok but i probably wouldn't buy another. To me it seems like it is pretty sloppy, even my PB and AQ rudders have less play.

Having a little problem with water getting in so i dont want to put my Eagle Tree in it until i get that sorted out, thinking it has to be through the drive line cause it isn't getting water in it just sitting in the tub.