Revolt Cooling mods thread. Let's see'em.

[metoo]

I’ve seen mention of running larger cooling lines, dual lines, larger fittings, and such and so forth. I would like to see pics of cooling mods you guys have done to your Revolt. If you have before and after results, that's all the better.

[Mike Caruso]

Nothing fancy turned motor cooling jacket to exit top and bigger I.D. lines. No Issues with stock motor and ESC on Grim 4S. The Gallery has pictures of everything I have done to my Revolt. No problem with battery tray but look close plywood on each end but not touching the hull. (Tip from Grim)

[dirtnsnowrider]

Ask and you shall receive. I have updated the lines to Dubro large #204 fuel tubing and added a secondary water pick up off the back of the transom where you bolt the strut arm mount to the hull. Hope this helps you out.
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[metoo]

Ask and you shall receive. I have updated the lines to Dubro large #204 fuel tubing and added a secondary water pick up off the back of the transom where you bolt the strut arm mount to the hull.

Where does the hot water exit?

[dirtnsnowrider]

I have 2 water outlets on the left side of the boat.
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[rickwess]

Just an upgrade to 5/32 tubing and proper thru hull fittings. Stock motor and SeaKing 120A ESC both running warm to the touch (but not worth measuring) with a Octura m545 prop.

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[metoo]

Just an upgrade to 5/32 tubing and proper thru hull fittings. Stock motor and SeaKing 120A ESC both running warm to the touvh (not worth measuring) with a Octura m545 prop.



I was thinking about going with a Seaking ESC if for nothing else but to control the LVC. Man, this cheap boat is starting not to be so cheap, but so is the case with all my RC vehicles.



I have 2 water outlets on the left side of the boat.

That ought to be an interesting sight. Where are you guys getting those outlet fittings? What are they called officially?

[rickwess]

The SeaKing's are much more linear than the stock ESC as well.

[dirtnsnowrider]

the water outlets on my revolt are from aquacraft part number aqub9519. I have also used aluminum antenna holders in the past as water outlets.

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[dirtnsnowrider]

That ought to be an interesting sight. Where are you guys getting those outlet fittings? What are they called officially?[/QUOTE]

check out this video to see what the dual outlets look like on my revolt, its the chase boat in this video (solid blue metallic)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHuQtH48wNY&feature=youtu.be

[rickwess]

Here you go:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=aero-2011

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=aero-2014

[mannytx1]

999759997699977Hi, Mike grimracer zaborowski
I think there are serious problems with the design of the rudder, the water pickup hole is very high, need 1 inch below ( the water pickup hole should be no less than one inch below the keel) very small rudder, a minimum recommended length is 1 times the diameter of its support below Lx 15% 30”x15% = 4,5” minimum. (REVOLT 30 ONLY 4")
LVC not protects the batteries
thank you very much

Manny

[rickwess]

Not why you think it's a serious problem. Running a m545 prop and neither the ESC or motor is getting warm enough to warrant anything but a finger measurement.

[Doby]

Hi, Mike grimracer zaborowski
I think there are serious problems with the design of the rudder, the water pickup hole is very high, need 1 inch below ( the water pickup hole should be no less than one inch below the keel) very small rudder, a minimum recommended length is 1 times the diameter of its support below Lx 15% 30”x15% = 4,5” minimum. (REVOLT 30 ONLY 4")
LVC not protects the batteries
thank you very much





Manny


Again, where did you come up with the calculation to prove to yourself that a problem exists when there really is none??

[dirtnsnowrider]

Hi, Mike grimracer zaborowski
I think there are serious problems with the design of the rudder, the water pickup hole is very high, need 1 inch below ( the water pickup hole should be no less than one inch below the keel) very small rudder, a minimum recommended length is 1 times the diameter of its support below Lx 15% 30”x15% = 4,5” minimum. (REVOLT 30 ONLY 4")
LVC not protects the batteries
thank you very much

Manny

a bigger rudder = more drag
the boat handles excellent with the stock rudder and does a more than adequate cooling job. This is a very popular boat and sure there are a few tweaks to make it better but the bang for the buck is there. As for the lvc not working properly. Have you checked your batteries. Many a time somebody will not balance their packs when they should (every time for cheap china packs). You said the lvc did not protect the batteries, what exactly happened. What were the cell readings after the run? Just trying to help out.....

[metoo]

You said the lvc did not protect the batteries, what exactly happened. ....

The LVC is permanently set too low. Check the manual for yourself. This is why guys using the stock (and even non-stock just for peace of mind) ESC time their runs rather than rely on the LVC.

[dirtnsnowrider]

The LVC is permanently set too low. Check the manual for yourself. This is why guys using the stock (and even non-stock just for peace of mind) ESC time their runs rather than rely on the LVC.

This is very interesting as I have not encountered any problems using this esc with different batteries. I ran this esc in a sv-27, UL-1, Top speed 3 and a VS-1. I never run my boats down to the lvc. When it stutters I bring the boat in plain and simple. I have never had one of these esc shut me off either. Once again when it gives you the stutter bump it is time to bring her in. The manual states it stutters at 12v and cuts off at 2.9v per cell or 11.6v. So if the esc cuts off it did its job. The driver should have enough common sense to bring the boat back instead of finishing whatever they were trying to accomplish. Why would you continue to keep running your boat after the warning? You have enough leeway to make it to shore before the cut off. If you operate the boat and electronics within its parameters you will never have an issue with stressing your set up. Just wondering why everybody trashes the esc but nobody gives any measurements or readings. They just go off of what was printed. Like I said, myself and my friends run these esc's for 4s set ups and never have the issues that others complain about. Has this esc failed you and a set of batteries?

[metoo]

......... Once again when it gives you the stutter bump it is time to bring her in. The manual states it stutters at 12v and cuts off at 2.9v per cell or 11.6v. So if the esc cuts off it did its job......... Has this esc failed you and a set of batteries?

Exactly my point. I feel those values are too low. Many would consider 12.4 to be the proper warning and 12V to be the shut-off. At least this is the thought of most of the car guys I know, and cars are less demanding. What the setting should be is surely debatable, but I have the low voltage warning on my cars set at 3.1V/cell. Personal preference, I guess. The factory ESC has never failed me as I have never used it. It's still new/unused and will be up for sale soon.

Oh, and to correct myself from post #16, I meant, "This is why guys using the stock ESC time their runs rather than rely on the stutter."

[dirtnsnowrider]

Exactly my point. I feel those values are too low. Many would consider 12.4 to be the proper warning and 12V to be the shut-off. At least this is the thought of most of the car guys I know, and cars are less demanding. What the setting should be is surely debatable, but I have the low voltage warning on my cars set at 3.1V/cell. Personal preference, I guess. The factory ESC has never failed me as I have never used it. It's still new/unused and will be up for sale soon.

Oh, and to correct myself from post #16, I meant, "This is why guys using the stock ESC time their runs rather than rely on the stutter."

Wait till you run your seaking 120. If you have not run any of these esc's you have a learning curve ahead of you. If you have it set at 3.2 your runs are going to be very very short. I run my seaking esc's with the cut off set at 2.8v per cell so I think the Aquacraft esc setting is fine. I understand where you are coming from. I guess what I am saying is that if the esc makes you hesitant in using it then don't. I am comfortable with it as I have seen it perform and it has not failed me or my friends and our batteries to date. Not saying it may not happen but for the time we have owned them they have been reliable.

[dirtnsnowrider]

off topic but these are the caps I use.

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I posted here since the site refuses to let me upload and send them in a pm....

[flynz26]

I made a double prop wash cooling setup on my revolt. One for motor and sc and other for battery tray. I felt batteries were getting to hot for my comfort so I'm beta testing my design.

[flynz26]

I'm happy to say that I just beta tested my cooling mod today. I know the water up here in MN is quite cold still but temps were good. Ran for 6 min pushing it quite hard, stock revolt with kintec shaft and 5.5mm bullets and stock prop (bent lifter prop day before). Batts were 7600 40c 2s. Motor was 86, esc was 64 and Batts were 78 and 80. Can't wait to see how it does in the summer with the warmer water

[Grimracer]

You really should remove that lower support between the two tubes. The drag from that is quite high.

Grim

[FORT-26]

Does anyone have any pix of DUAL REAR-EXIT cooling line fittings mounted in the transom of the Revolt? I'm wanting to setup dual cooling lines, and have everything ENTER & EXIT in the rear...The factory exit and entrance holes for cooling lines are grossly out of line with each other (location top2bottom from top of transom)....kinda bugs me. :ThumbsDown01:

[flynz26]

I didn't think it would when on plane but will do grim. Thanks