first time carbon fiber build

[blowNover]

this is my first real build and to top it off it will be on a carbon fiber fantasm. so im a little in over my head on a total build. ive seen alot of guys when it comes to the motor mount and servo mount just bolted down with the small screw heads exposed in-between the sponsons in the tunnel. and since this is going to be single is that the best way to go? on another note i ordered the SAW version which is already reinforced carbon fiber should i still do another layer of reinforcement? on top of all this i would like it to look nice and clean under the cowl. and any advice on cowl latches would be great i just use tape at the moment and would love latches but i dont want to let any water in seeing as it seems i really like to blow my boats over. and any other advice would be awesome. i really want to do this build myself but im a little scared to screw it up on things like motor placement and things of that nature.

[blowNover]

anything?

[iamandrew]

Its just a Genesis, so look up builds for them

[Rocstar]

Its just a Genesis, so look up builds for them
No its not. It's a 41'' Fantasm. The Daytona is the same hull as the Genesis at 37'' and much more narrow.

[blowNover]

thanks joel but he is right on one thing if i do decide to do this build myself im sure some one has wrote up some specs on motor mount, stuffing tube, and servo mount placement. i just want to be sure i do it write thats all andrew. the last thing i need it to screw it up.

[Jason4636]

For your flex, run .187 flex. The motor mount is from FC, don't use the one from OSE. If you do you will need to cut some CF plate in strips to raise the motor. Just make sure you sand anywhere the epoxy is going to touch. I use G-flex epoxy. Here's some pic's of the inside of my Fantasm, Keith did a very nice job on it. And Steve at Airbrish Alley did a hell of a job painting it
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh526/jason4636/3_zpsa8d74fe1.jpg (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jason4636/media/3_zpsa8d74fe1.jpg.html)

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh526/jason4636/myboat1.jpg (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jason4636/media/myboat1.jpg.html)

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh526/jason4636/4_zps68523e79.jpg (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jason4636/media/4_zps68523e79.jpg.html)

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh526/jason4636/33_zps3ddf4b18.jpg (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jason4636/media/33_zps3ddf4b18.jpg.html)

If you need me to take some certian pic's of the inside just let me know

[Chrisg81983]

Jason that's be he'll of a paint job......genestein the only way I can recommend to secure hatches is to bolt down with countersunk screws then tape.

[Jason4636]

Thanks Chris

And if you look at my pics, you can see that I have 4 bolt bosses sticking up for hatch bolts. I'd use 6 bolt thou, one at the front and back of the hatch. Right in the center. I use a type of hatch seal. I've never had water come in yet. And my bolts are regular socket head bolts. With a rubber grommet underneath the bolt head. I'll take some pcs in the morning

[blowNover]

How do y'all feel about Keith's hatch bolts?

[Jason4636]

Thats what I have on my Fantasm, Cheetah, and my mono. I also use the hatch seal that he sales. If you use them, do a water test with no electronics in the boat. I held mine under water for a minute. It had only a thimble full of water. And with running the fantasm, 99% of the time it comes in dry as a bone

[Hor2012]

what do you think of these hatch push and twist pins just trowing it out there maybe a option ive been using them on my mono never had issues also used tape for water reasons but even with flips and crashes hatch never fell of

[Jason4636]

I've never used them. All I e ever used is the screw type of latch bolts

[blowNover]

Yea the hatch has never fell off but has it let water in. Like Jason said with Keith's hatch bolt system and his seal it reall doesn't leak at all.

[iridebikes247]

I use the KBB hatch bolts. They're not countersunk. To be honest you can just go to ace hardware spend 15 minutes looking around and you'll have enough hardware for 2 hatch kits for $15. Doesn't matter if they're countersunk really I tape up the whole boat then with an allen key punch a tiny pin hole through the tape then push the big hatch bolt through. I never have leaking problems.

[blowNover]

But here we are again looking at doing it my self again. I'm up for it maybe just because I want them to be countersunk. After getting the hardware how do I install it?

[lonewolf]

Hey how about some pics of this hull ...Im interested ...Transome would be awesome...lol Hope to help you out ...reguardless good luck!!!

[Jason4636]

None of mine are counter sunk. To run the counter sink screws, you are going to put in a lot more work. A lot more

[Jason4636]

Hey how about some pics of this hull ...Im interested ...Transome would be awesome...lol Hope to help you out ...reguardless good luck!!!
Heres a link to the Hull.
http://www.keithbradleyboats.com/?wpsc-product=carbon-fiber-41-catamaran
Plus FC's site
http://www.keithbradleyboats.com/?wpsc-product=carbon-fiber-41-catamaran

[blowNover]

As soon as the hull gets here I will posts plenty of pics of the hull and transom (just for you lonewolf). How much extra work are we really talking about? What about having Keith install his latch bolts then finding countersunk screws that will match with his bolt system and countersinking the hatch to match the screws. The only thing I'd have to do is find the screws and countersink the hatch. Right?

[Jason4636]

You make it sound so easy. If you have regular hatch bolts installed, then try and use cs screw. It won't work. You have to give the screw something to pull or push against. If you drill out the hole on the hatch so you can run your cs screws. You won't have enough area of the hatch to be able to secure it

[blowNover]

Ok hull is here and I see exactly what you are saying its way to thin to even try to counter sink a cs screw into it. So I will stick with Keith's bolts (that's just sounds dirty).

Lonewolf here are some pics of the transom and stern block. The stern block measures 2 inches wide by 1 5/16 inch tall but for ease id just say its 1 1/4 inch tall. How do you think your steerable drive would do on this hull.

[Rocstar]

I use stainless button head screws, I also use thumb screws during testing for quick access without a tool.

973509735197352

[blowNover]

Are those installed the same way as Keith's?

[Chrisg81983]

Hey buddy if needed look at my hpr 115 build thread here you will see how to install countersunk hatch bolts with 5 $ in hardware from local store and some epoxy you can also add cf plate to the equation like I did. I have many crashes at 100 + and hatch doesn't move at all. Any questions email me a pm.

[blowNover]

Ill take a look at it but the carbon fiber is so thin on the hatch that I would really have to lay a thick coat of carbon fiber on the bottom of the hatch to allow for enough material to safely counter sink the screws. Regardless I will still find and take a look at your thread and see how you did it. Thanks.

[Chrisg81983]

Here you go . Inside the poured epoxy there is a cf pate for added strength. Then you countersink into that

[blowNover]

That looks really slick. I like it alot. Does it get in the way of the hatch seal?

[blowNover]

On the inlay how far up the hull should I go? And does anyone know where else I can buy carbon fiber flat stock other then Keith? Not that I don't trust his but I'm hoping I might be able to find it local in SoCal so I don't need to have it shipped.

[Jason4636]

There is many places that have CF all over the US. Just do a search on google for it. 2-3mm should be all the thickness you will need for anything.

[blowNover]

Hey what does everyone thing about filling the front of the boat with expanding foam?

[srislash]

That is a really mixed topic. I would do it after you get it set up and know where the batteries and such will end up.And when doing the setup plan on 40% CG with the Batts still accessable. I may have oops that part on my Komodo.
The foam will firm up the hull and add nose weight but limits accessability for repairs.

[blowNover]

I know but how in the world do you get up there to do repairs in the first place? Is there some secret? If so please do share!

[srislash]

depending on the needed repair,a coathanger or garden bamboo can be a good friend

[blowNover]

That's very true but if I do something like great stuff all the way from the bow a few inches forward from the hatch opening what are the chances of a carbon fiber boat needing those repairs?

[blowNover]

On another note what is the best epoxy resin to use if and when I do my carbon fiber inlay. And can I buy it at a hardware store?

[Chrisg81983]

NEVER USE GREATSTUFF. use a real 2 part expanding foam from US Composites or something similar. It is better t be coastguard approved for marine use. Second a great epoxy is from West Systems. It's one of the best systems out there plus they have many additives for it to add characteristics of your choice to it.

[srislash]

I use Silver tip laminating epoxy from System Three. I get it from Industrial Plastics, but any Fibreglass shop should have it. Either of these epoxy's are great to work with.
Just stick with the long cure time as it bonds far better than any 15min epoxy.

Follow Chris' advice on the foam.Great Stuff can suddenly expand on its own weeks later,and it is not a closed cell foam which means it can suck up contaminates such as water.