Revolt set up

[ENCORE MAN]

I just completed my set up work on a stock revolt. As I intend to run this boat in a spec offshore class, the stock 1800 motor and esc are still in place.
1---ripped out the battery mount and installed a single velcro mount in the same location to suit a 4s, 1p, 5000 40c lipo
2---installed 1/2 x 1/2 wood stringers on the hull floor to strengthen the bottom and completely coated the hull from the front of the battery mount to the transom with Pacer Z Poxy 30 minute and applied the same to the hatch cover.
3---As per instructions from a club member, TRUCKPULL, I turned the turn fin mounts around so the fins are inboard rather than outboard. You will have to redrill the starboard mount holes to accomodate the rudder bracket.
4--- Also from TRUCKPULL, I shortened the drive by one inch so the prop is even with the leading edge of the rudder.
5---Install an m445 prop and you are ready to go.

You will notice a remarkable improvement in handling and turning with this set up but only a slight improvement in speed. That said, the boat which uses the least amount of the lake usually wins the race.
Goodluck!!!! BG

[capnswanny]

Coo to see a pic if you have one....

[ENCORE MAN]

My Revolt

Pics of Revolt set up. Quick note, I used JB WELD to strengthen the flex shaft stuffing tube. BG

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[metoo]

Why did you put that thrust bearing at the prop? That's gotta be a kink in the streamline. Plus, there is supposed to be a gap where you now have the bearing to allow the shaft to compress under load.

Some video of this setup running would be great.

[ENCORE MAN]

Why did you put that thrust bearing at the prop? That's gotta be a kink in the streamline. Plus, there is supposed to be a gap where you now have the bearing to allow the shaft to compress under load.

Some video of this setup running would be great.

Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge of driveline componets and set up with me. Many RC boaters like to run a thrust bearing on the prop shaft to allow for a much smaller gap than normal. This practice restricts water from being sucked up the driveshaft and into the hull and is especially usefull when running in salt water.
No video at this time. Thanks,, BG

[metoo]

Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge of driveline componets and set up with me. Many RC boaters like to run a thrust bearing on the prop shaft to allow for a much smaller gap than normal. This practice restricts water from being sucked up the driveshaft and into the hull and is especially usefull when running in salt water.
No video at this time. Thanks,, BG

I detect a little angst. No disrespect intended, but funny, I do actually sometimes design driveline components for a living . I was just pointing out the potential that the bearing "could" be deflecting water from the prop. It would be interesting to see speed data with and with out the bearing. There may be no difference or there maybe only a single mph or so less and that's a worthwhile trade for blocking water. I don't know. I do know, however, that the helix of the shaft, good tolerances, and a proper lube job are supposed to take care of water ingress while the boat is running. Also, the smaller gap now means tension in the drive shaft, which it's not designed for, and it creates a pull on motor shaft. This may be a non-issue, but it is happening. The Revolt stock drive shaft has been known to break. I assume you've already upgraded that though. In the end, as long as your happy with everything, that's all that really matters. I'm only here to help where I can and learn what I can. In this forum, the latter is more the case.

I (and I'm sure others) am still genuinely interested in seeing how your boat handles with all the mods you've made. It's the handling (and price) that made me buy a Revolt. I'm open to looking at anything that will make it handle even better. I'll be looking out for that vid.

[Rumdog]

yup. thrust bearing in that spot is a bad idea bud. Bin it.

[ENCORE MAN]

yup. thrust bearing in that spot is a bad idea bud. Bin it.

Next time out, I will gps the boat with and without the thrust bearing and report back. BG

[Phoebe]

Next time out, I will gps the boat with and without the thrust bearing and report back. BG

With that setup you need to factor in longevity. The shaft works at max efficiency under compression. Putting that bearing there prohibits compression. I.e., you're stretching the shaft.

I don't mean any disrespect, and I'm a FE newbie... but my hunch is that's not a good place for a thrust bearing if you're running a spiral shaft.

What do ya think?

[BHChieftain]

If you know exactly how much space to use so there is barely any force on the thrust bearing then this could enable virtually no gap. But if you misjudge that then any force on the thrust bearing due to the shrinking of the flexdrive would be transferred to the motor bearings which is not a good thing. How do you figure out the right spacing??

I once had a plastic washer that was larger OD than the strut, and the result was to pump water up the stuffing tube. I replaced the washer with one the same size and that resolved the water intrusion issue. If you want to keep the thrust bearing, would there be a way to build up a "cone" on the strut to reduce the drag?

Chief

[Mike Caruso]

That's a good tip to keep an eye out for. WATER is non forgiving as far as drag.
Mike

[lenny]

And I thought you were just kidding with the bearing being there when I saw it in the pictures.
Any lube or grease would just get washed out of it on the first couple of passes in the water,
Don't you think.

Pics of Revolt set up. Quick note, I used JB WELD to strengthen the flex shaft stuffing tube. BG

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[Phoebe]

I just can't figure why you'd want to create drag with the TB back there where it's unnecessary. An air gap creates less friction than a bearing. If you choose to have a TB at all, it belongs at the motor. What am I missing here?