PDA

View Full Version : miss geico 29 air born issue



Rhadieselp
03-30-2013, 09:31 PM
i have a miss geico 29 with the spartan power system. running kinetic metal prop same as stock spartan prop just metal. 2 three cell lipos 5200 mha set all the way forward in boat i have rudder in full up position. drive/ prop shaft is pushed all the way down. this boat at almost full throttle comes out of the water and flips i mounted gopro to front of boat to weight it down. still did it my though was maybe the gopro was causing more lift but still either way this boat is a kite. i see on youtube that people have bigger power setups and just get the bounce but no one is complaining about boat not staying in water. my next idea is to put a biggetr prop on it because thats the only thing diffrent from what i can tell other people are running any ideas would really help. i ordered gneiss few days ago i hope that i dont run into same problem with that build as well

Rhadieselp
03-30-2013, 09:34 PM
http://youtu.be/FsarJ3waHEM
here is a video of boat very first part the boat flips which is what it dose every time i try and use full throttle everything else i have to drive slow

srislash
03-30-2013, 09:48 PM
You need to put the prop up in relation to the ride pads.If you set the boat on a table the hull should be flat and the bottom of strut should also be flat or even up a mm or two
96437

hydro_pyro
03-30-2013, 10:13 PM
If your strut is set down low, you will get LOTS of prop-induced bow lift. Raising it will give you less bow lift and more stern lift for a flatter ride attitude.

My Blackjack 29 strut plate sits 1/4" above the mount. Handles nice this way.

lenny
03-30-2013, 10:49 PM
That is level with the sponson's at 1/4 above the stock strut mount.
Mine is just level with the table and sponson's,
I got 56.8 gps on two 4s 40c 4000mah packs in parallel.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?40261-Mystic-modded-setup-and-testing.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=CxRDc3-ys6A

hydro_pyro
03-31-2013, 08:16 AM
By "1/4 inch" above, I was referring to how much the top of the strut tab sticks up above the main bracket. When there's less of the prop's thrust cone underwater, it results in more stern lift and less bow lift. When the stern is more "loose", the tunnel doesn't tend to trap as much air, and doesn't porpoise as much. I ran 58.1 mph on three Nano 2s 50c 5300 hard packs and stock electrics with the strut set this high. There's about 2mm of clearance between the tips of the blades and the strut bracket. ;)

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/hydropyropyropyro/2E7771ED-84A3-4BE2-8C36-3B093E34E55E-3264-0000074FE36F6554.jpg

Rhadieselp
03-31-2013, 09:06 AM
and rudder adjustment is that level or tilted down or up dose that have any affect on ride also are you placing your batt packs all the way forward?

Rhadieselp
03-31-2013, 09:06 AM
do you think prop size can affect it also? what prop would you use with my setup

lenny
03-31-2013, 10:02 AM
Hi,
If the rudder is adjusted in toward the transom 1/8 at the bottom the boat will hold a turn better,
Mine rudder is level and the strut is level to with the sponson's on a flat table and prop hanging off the table.
I am using a modded m445 prop with mine,
But will be testing others to.
Can you post some pictures of your boat and setup to ?
Also is your prop S & B good ?
I am not sure but is your boat stuffing the bow and than flipping ?
Very hard to see how it is running in the video,
Need some good side views of it running to see how it is ridding.

Rhadieselp
03-31-2013, 10:35 AM
prop is the one kenitic racing sells for spartan that is so posed to be balanced and sharpened already not having a PROBLEM WITH BOW STUFFING THE BOAT AT HALF THROTTLE OR NORMAL SPEEDS OF STOP SETUP RUNS GREAT no problems at all nice and flat then i start to give it more front end lifts and is just walking on rear of boat side to side then i give it close to full and its prop and rudder thats left then it will flip i just went down the street to test it in the lake with prop adjusted like advised above tried it level with boat haul tried it pushed up as far as i could before blades hit rudder no luck I'm hoping to try a different prop and ruder offset bracket since thats my only options the boat runs great at half throttle witch is still very fast its just that extra power or if i stop the boat and hold full throttle to take off it jumps out of water front end first and flips in under 5 feet. i see people with same or bigger power so i know its not over powered maybe i got a weird hull or something

Rhadieselp
03-31-2013, 10:49 AM
9645596456964579645896459

Rhadieselp
03-31-2013, 10:51 AM
ok one thing I'm noticing that no one has since my drive line is pushed back further do to bigger motor that is pushing my prop back further could that cause it to lift its not a huge difference if so how do i shorten it up

hydro_pyro
03-31-2013, 11:33 AM
I doubt that's the problem. Two things here:

1. Make sure your propshaft is level. Any upward thrust angle is going to make it fly high.

2. Prop design is very important. Mono hulls use a much different prop design. Put a stock metal ProBoat 4019 prop on there for a baseline. See if you still have a problem with blowover.

The Spartan uses a prop that keeps the stern planted and helps lift the bow a little bit. Hulls like yours need a prop with maximum stern lift (to keep the tunnal lifted at the rear so it doesnt "bucket" air and porpoise; and minimal bow lift (to keep the ride attitude flatter so it doesn't trap too much air)

lenny
03-31-2013, 12:35 PM
You can close the gap up some if you move the motor mount forward the rest of the way,
Also you should make a support for the motor end facing the bow.
You will have a lot of torque on that stock motor mount screw and wood.
Can you take a couple picture of it level on a table,
I would get or make the rudder offset first thing,
Than also a m445 prop to try.
Did you get any gps speeds from it yet with it running smooth ?

Rhadieselp
03-31-2013, 01:34 PM
9648696487964889648996490

Rhadieselp
03-31-2013, 01:37 PM
9649196492964919649396494

Rhadieselp
03-31-2013, 01:41 PM
ok so i took motor out cut the shaft to move prop up could not move bracket otherwise motor would hit plastic cover put stock prop on boat and ran it seems to be alot better i can get alot more speed out of it but problem is still there im thinking that it has alot to do with prop what is everyone running on this boat for bigger power setups or what are the props i should try also to much power for stock prop it broke it in first 5 min also now that i moved prop back seems like alot more water in boat then normal and grease all over the inside is that from water running up the drive line? any way to make them water tight

Heaving Earth
03-31-2013, 03:10 PM
All you have to do is cut the flex cable to shorten things.
You cut the motor shaft?

Heaving Earth
03-31-2013, 03:23 PM
ok so i took motor out cut the shaft to move prop up could not move bracket otherwise motor would hit plastic cover put stock prop on boat and ran it seems to be alot better i can get alot more speed out of it but problem is still there im thinking that it has alot to do with prop what is everyone running on this boat for bigger power setups or what are the props i should try also to much power for stock prop it broke it in first 5 min also now that i moved prop back seems like alot more water in boat then normal and grease all over the inside is that from water running up the drive line? any way to make them water tight

It's really hard to read your statements since you use no grammar whatsoever. It's just one long run on sentence.
Anyways, what I would do is get some standoffs or threaded spacers from a hardware store, and offset the rudder. The inline rudders are a joke. Cut the bracket short enough so you can move prop up, but leave it long enough so you can drill new holes and offset rudder. That's my two cents

lenny
03-31-2013, 03:48 PM
A small piece of fuel line will fix the leak on the stuffing tube and flex,
When you put the boat on the table the strut should be on the table to.
This way it will be easier when you are adjusting the strut to be level with the sponson's,
To get it all nice and level.
I do not have the inner hatch cover for mine,
You can get rid of the washer at the prop dog to it is not needed.

tlandauer
03-31-2013, 05:06 PM
All you have to do is cut the flex cable to shorten things.
You cut the motor shaft?
...
Anyway, pushing the strut up sometimes brings another problem: the prop will have positive angle, the up-down path is NOT a straight line, it is an arch. I had to enlarge the hole on the strut so I can move it more freely up and down, don't be afraid to use a file to file away! I suspect that you might have a bit of positive angle by looking at your post #11, picture 5.

Rhadieselp
03-31-2013, 07:30 PM
Anyone have a balanced prop they want to sell that would work for my setup.

tlandauer
03-31-2013, 07:42 PM
I am not sure if the m445 is gone, it's not clear from the listing, you may ask however. http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?40500-S-amp-B-Props-P-Spec-Hydro-Tunnel-Mono-and-more

JimClark
04-01-2013, 12:16 AM
Anyone have a balanced prop they want to sell that would work for my setup.

Please take it to the wtb fourm to find props not in this thread

Sent from my MB611 using Tapatalk 2