New system installed!

[Megabiker98]

I got my tacon 4074 2150 kv, t-180 installed. Everything 5.5mm bullets, 2 2s 5,000 mah batteries, but as of NOW my main concern (not huge) but my rudder linkage boot has a little tear on it, if it happens to flip will water get in through there? How would I replace it when I do as it seems connected to the hull pretty darn good!

[lenny]

You could use it as is and put some rtv silicone or goop on the tear for now to run it,
Than you order a new one and when you want to replace it just take out the old one.
And add a piece of tube to the hole and ca it in than put the new one on the tube with ca.

9498994990

[Megabiker98]

Ok, will it let any excess water in until that point? Or is it just more of a looks thing?

[JimClark]

Mine was CA'd on I plan on installing a tube in the hull that the like this

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Timex-Build/i-Cb3LSgx/0/XL/2012-07-06_13-15-06_296-XL.jpg

[Megabiker98]

That link wouldn't work for me???

[lenny]

Same hear on the link,
What coupler are you using in your setup that is not holding the flex shaft tight ?
Have any pictures of your setup and boat and hardware ?
Also I set my LV to 2.8 on the seaking 180a and packs come in with 3.88v a cell.

[Megabiker98]

The stock proboat coupler....how did u know it wasnt staying tight??? 😮 And I'm not sure if it was just because I didn't tighten it enough or not. However I was making sure I tightened it though!!

[JimClark]

Fixed the link same photo as Lennie had of my boat build

[Megabiker98]

Wouldn't that let water in if it flips over though???

[lenny]

I had to fix my stock coupler to on my Mystic,
You can take it off and the motor and clean out fingers with sand paper,
Or a cutting wheel on a dremel, But go easy on what you take out.
I ran mine to day and it ran very smooth and pretty fast on 4s2p,
Shot some video of it, But it did not come out to good this time.
I had the zoom set in a little to close to say with it.

[Megabiker98]

What do u mean by the fingers??? I'm might know what u mean but an not positive!?

[lenny]

No,
You still put the boot on the tube.
Instead of through the hole in hull.

[ray schrauwen]

When the outer part of the coupler is removed, the inner part has gaps and the metal parts that clamp the cable could be described as 'fingers'.

What do u mean by the fingers??? I'm might know what u mean but an not positive!?

[Heaving Earth]

Install brass tube then slip a new boot on and zip tie it on. So simple it's ridiculous

[lenny]

The brass piece,
See how it looks open.
95085

[lenny]

Boy That is a pretty boat Jim.:tiphat:

[Megabiker98]

Ya it is a nice boat, and I am at dinner right now I will look at mine when I get home!

[Megabiker98]

Mine doesn't have a brass piece?? I'm assuming that is a problem! Hahah here's. couple pics of mine.

[Heaving Earth]

Yours doesn't use a brass insert

[lenny]

No,
The brass piece is for a different coupler.
Mine is like your to, But mine is black,
The finger slots look wide on your coupler.
Mine where pretty tight,
How tight did you tighten it up when it slipping on you ?
Double wrench in one hand ?

[Megabiker98]

I could have sworn I tightened it pretty darn good!! Can I see a picture of what u did to urs?

[lenny]

I just took it a part like yours,
And than modded the fingers so they would close more on the flex shaft.

[Megabiker98]

I don't know, since this was my first time with this problem, ill keep an eye on how it holds next time I drive it and if its coming out then ill fix the problem! It quite possibly could have been me just not tightening it all the way.

[lenny]

Have any pictures of your setup and boat and hardware ?
Or any video's of it running.


I don't know, since this was my first time with this problem, ill keep an eye on how it holds next time I drive it and if its coming out then ill fix the problem! It quite possibly could have been me just not tightening it all the way.

[Megabiker98]

Ill get a couple uploaded right now, no video yet, as I don't have any good cameras that I can hold while I'm running, all I hae is my iPhone and that's kinda hard to film with, should have some around Mother's Day though! (Long time I know) As to hardware, stock rudder, strut, pretty much everything except the prop, and electronics. Ill get some pics now

[Megabiker98]

The prop is a sharpened and balanced octura x642, I'm THINKING about getting an m445. That's most likely gonna come after I get a new transmitter to replace stock. The strut is set level with the bottom of the boat. Haven't had any chances to dial it in yet, when I went out today it was choppy, and my run time was cut in half due to the lvc as explained earlier

[lenny]

Yes on the m445 and modded some.
Strut look high,
Is it set level with the sponson's on a table ?
And the cell set them where the boat rails ends, About 1/2 passed the motor mount.
Your are to far foward and will run wet.
Than try it and like that, Than move them 1/2" towards the bow and try again.
If your running 4s cell try them at the motor mount.
I just posted a video of mine running form today.

[Megabiker98]

Ya last time I set it up on a table it was level, ill check again tommorrow morning. And I am running 2s packs! I watched ur video, can't wait to get mine to an open lake!!!!! My local pond is pretty compact!!! What prop do u have on urs?
Edit: yep strut is set level with the sponsons on a table

[Heaving Earth]

Bring the strut up 3/16 higher than level

[Megabiker98]

HIGHER? :o ok I will try it! Hahah

[Megabiker98]

I'm stuck in the middle, I wanna get a new radio and I wanna get the m445 prop, I don't know which to get first. Radio im getting is the flysky gt3c, or a sharpened and balanced m445. If I get the radio I'm afraid they will run out of the sharpened and balance props. I wanna get te pre balanced prop because I don't have enough time right now to sharpen one. What do u guys think I should do?

[Heaving Earth]

The prop will give more performance than a radio change will

[ray schrauwen]

My suggestion would be either the GT3B or the latest FLYSKY RC Model FS-iT4 4ch 2.4GHz

The power button on the steering wheel for the GT3C is known to shut the radio down because it pinches the power switch wires when you steer. You don't need to fix a brand new radio.

That said there are some crazy deals on some name brand 2.4G radio's lately too.

Just thought I'd warn ya. ;)


I'm stuck in the middle, I wanna get a new radio and I wanna get the m445 prop, I don't know which to get first. Radio im getting is the flysky gt3c, or a sharpened and balanced m445. If I get the radio I'm afraid they will run out of the sharpened and balance props. I wanna get te pre balanced prop because I don't have enough time right now to sharpen one. What do u guys think I should do?

[Megabiker98]

My suggestion would be either the GT3B or the latest FLYSKY RC Model FS-iT4 4ch 2.4GHz

The power button on the steering wheel for the GT3C is known to shut the radio down because it pinches the power switch wires when you steer. You don't need to fix a brand new radio.

That said there are some crazy deals on some name brand 2.4G radio's lately too.

Just thought I'd warn ya. ;)
I have heard of this problem before and thought I read something about it being fixed with the new gt3c (green) version? Was that just a rumor? Hmm. Ill have to look into the name brand sales!!!
I'm still undecided about the choice though, most likely prop is gonna get priority!

[ray schrauwen]

Good choice. You will like the prop much better.

I dunno, just my buddy bought a GT3C and it crapped out on him. Lucky he had someone to re-rig it.

The green could be better but, why chance it right now. China will keep pumping out more 'stuff' faster than you can think.

[Megabiker98]

Is it really that big of a difference? :o. Ya I don't I will wait a little while to get the remote and do a follow up and see if the green is fixed or not! Sounds like a plan to me! Hahaha

[lenny]

:tiphat:
Also move the water lines on the motor,
If you can spin the jacket so the out let nipple is on top and in the center of the motor.
You want the water coming in at the bottom nipple on the jacket,
This way it fills the hole jacket up to the top nipple.
Than going out the hull, You will have 25% more water in the jacket that way and better cooling.
What other boats and radios do you have ?


Ya last time I set it up on a table it was level, ill check again tommorrow morning. And I am running 2s packs! I watched ur video, can't wait to get mine to an open lake!!!!! My local pond is pretty compact!!! What prop do u have on urs?
Edit: yep strut is set level with the sponsons on a table

[Megabiker98]

I just took a look at raising it 3/16 up, and BOY does that seem super high, do u mean 3/16 from level with sponsons???

[Megabiker98]

Ok what about this water route configuration?? Just wanted to see if this will work without having to take it off? Ill take it off if it won't work though
I only have the mystic, and an on road car. I am looking into another boat, that won't be for a while though! Hahaha

[lenny]

That will work better,
The jacket should spin in the boat if you add some soupy water in the nipple,
And around the out side of the jacket O-rings.
Just work it a little.
Tactic radio's work good for me and the rx is pretty cheap to, I use one tx and I have 10 rx's.
You just bind all the rx to one tx.
I have a gt3b but never try that yet.

[Megabiker98]

How much should I spin it around 90 degrees 180???

[lenny]

Till the exit nipple is on top of the motor,
Like this.
951189511995120

[Megabiker98]

Alright that would make sense!! What is ur strut set at?? Is it the way the prop is supposed to be, it looks like it has a little ding in it towards the center??

[lenny]

Yes, :tongue_smilie:
Prop has lots of TLC and modding to it.
Strut level with the sponson's like I said before.
I also modded the rudder pin to take up the looseness it had,
Still looking things over for more idea's on modding a few things.
And also the trays for easier 4s cells placement.

[Megabiker98]

Hmm alright ill try strut level with sponsons then 3/16 from there and see how it does! What did u do to the rudder pin?? Ur talking about the little slack it has forward and backwards correct?

[lenny]

Yes, And side to side to,
I made a new one out of some soft aluminum round stock.
And I think it will brake the pin first if I hit something hard in the water,
To save the transom from being ripped out.
When the water get warmer I may need to find more cooling to,
For hot weather setups.

[Megabiker98]

On my boat I need more cooling??? DA*****!!!!!! That's where the majority if my running will be, the river! It's typically around 110 or so, water temp of around 65-70!!! Where could I get more cooling at? Like placement wise?
Edit: whoops misread that! Hahaha I thought u put a "u" not an "I"

[lenny]

You may be ok with those water temps on 4s and your setup,
If not just prop down to lower the amps and drop some heat on that setup.
You will lose a little speed but still have fun running it.
I may test some water pickups I made on this boat.
And also may sand the bottom of the hull with 400 grit sandpaper,
That will let the hull air out more and run with less drag to.

[Megabiker98]

Ya slower can mean more fun, longer sometimes! Hahaha. If u do end up doing that let me know how it ends up plz!! Where did u place the pickups, r they just the stray ones that run off the transom?

[Megabiker98]

Lenny, have u done anything a to ur bushings??? I have heard of some people saying there is a problem with that? What would it sound like or would there be any indication of a problem with it?

[lenny]

I have not fixed that yet,
But need to, It is very loose on mine at the prop shaft.
Pro boat used some cheap bushings in the strut,
And they will wear fast if the prop is not S & B to.
It will wobble up and down and side to side if you move it with your fingers.
I may use these to fix it.http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-lead-teflon-bushing-for-rc-boat-6-pcs-/140352337980

[Megabiker98]

How do u replace it?? Does it just slide right out the back? I was going to get the replacement from kintecracing, http://kintecracing.com/Miss_Geico_Upgrades.html?no_redirect=true

[lenny]

A little heat to loosen it and they should press out,
And the new ones press in.
I know the racer use the ones I posted,
But not to sure about the one you posted.
Try a search on that one.

[Megabiker98]

A little heat to loosen it and they should press out,
And the new ones press in.
I know the racer use the ones I posted,
But not to sure about the one you posted.
Try a search on that one.
Quick question, when I raise the strut should I try to keep it as level as possible when moving it up and down??

[lenny]

Yes,
keep it level with the sponson's.
It get's enough air under the hull,
You just need to find the right CG for the cells.

[Megabiker98]

Wow, when I put the m445 on, there isn't very much room to thread the prop nut on, is there anything I could do to secure it more? Is that usual? The threads don't even go half way through the prop nut!

[ray schrauwen]

Do you have a stock flex shaft or an upgraded one? I had no idea you would run into this situation.... sorry. Maybe you could pull the flex out of the flex collet some (3/16") if there is enough left to clamp and then move the drive dog back for more threads???

[Megabiker98]

Yes I'm running stock prop shaft and cable, ill take a couple pics to show u how much it is holding on!

[Megabiker98]

The first one shows how much threading I have to work with, the second is the nut threaded on!

[ray schrauwen]

Measure how much flex goes into the flex collet. If you can pull the cable out a bit without compromising how well the cable is held, then you can move the drive dog back some.
Otherwise you may be needing a new shaft so the cable doesn't destroy itself at the collet and take the collet with it or more.

Some people are good at shaving down the drive end of prop hub and take a bit of the tips of the drive dog but, a new cable could be the easiest fix...

BTW, I do no buy pre made upgrade cable because I can handle cutting soldering the new cable. Just make sure what you buy, that it has a longer stub shaft so you can put any prop on it. I pretty sure the one Steve sells at OSE has this figured out BUT, I could be wrong!

[Megabiker98]

Ok, so u do NOT recommend running it like this? I kinda figured that was gonna be the outcome, would loc-tite help at all???

[ray schrauwen]

Loctite could help but, if it seeps into the stub shaft, then you may have trouble getting the prop off.

Cheaper, simpler fix may work is to use a proper Octura or Aeromarine locknut. They are shorter and start locking on the first few threads.

Someone on here long ago said they were called something special if you wanted to order them. Something like an aircraft locknut where the bore is almost oval to create locking as soon as you get one or two threads on.

It's your call. Nice prop and would not want to lose it. Ahh, the urge to get on soft water, I feel your pain sir!!!

[ray schrauwen]

Was it an M445 or an x445 with the tongues cut off? An x445 has a huge hub.

If you have a grinder you could quickly grind off 1/16" from the back of prop hub.. Remember a mask!!! BerCopper!

[Megabiker98]

I am not sure, I bought it from a user on this site, it's an m445 that's about all I know!!! Hahaha, ya I'm setting all my boats up for my first river trip! I ALMOST put off putting the prop on until I got to the river, I'm glad I didn't though!!!!
Edit: if someone could chime in about what the name of that prop nut he is talking about would be great!

[Megabiker98]

Ok I'm taking a couple measurements and right now the shaft, FIRST makes contact with about 12mm of PROP shaft left, about how many mm would the collet need at the least to have a secure lock??

[ray schrauwen]

If it says M445 on the end it is M445 if it says x445 it is a cut x445.

[ray schrauwen]

Doesn't leave you much if you take out 4mm max leving you with 8mm in the collet.
How much space do you leave in between the drive dog and the strut? If it was me and only me... I would remove the plastic white washer but, that JUST ME. It is there so in case of mistake (loose collet) that it doesn't start grinding your strut to all heck.



Ok I'm taking a couple measurements and right now the shaft, FIRST makes contact with about 12mm of PROP shaft left, about how many mm would the collet need at the least to have a secure lock??

[ray schrauwen]

Ooops, I may have mislead you to think you can just mash the drive dog against the strut. No no, make sure you leave 3-4mm space for cable shrinkage otherwise grinding will be nasty and break things.

[Megabiker98]

Ya I know for a fact it's an m445! Lemme rephrase this in hopes of making it more understandable! Hahaha. So when I have my flex shaft where I want it to be to drive, it is pushed ALL the way into the collet. Ur saying if I move my drive dog back about 4mm it would still make good contact and the collet will still grip the shaft well?

[Megabiker98]

And I usually leave about 2mm inbetween my drive dog and strut
Quick question, moving the drive dog won't affect anything, just freeing up room correct?

[ray schrauwen]

Yes, freeing up room is what I'm trying to help you achieve. You have to leave a min. 8-10mm in the flex collet and you have to have a good 2-3mm space between the drive dog and strut.

The flex collet you have I have in my hand. When the clamp nut is removed the splines are 7.25mm long so you don't want any less than 8mm in the collet but, any more than that is doing nothing but sitting in an unclamped .150" bore. Eventually you will most likely benefit from a better cable but, this should do for now.

I think we are clear as mud by now right? :blink: Kidding.

[Megabiker98]

Alright, so I was gonna move the drive dog a little, just to check it out (I made marks were it was before I moved it) but as I moved it, there's like a flat spot, for the grub screws, but the flat spot doesn't go far enough back to move the drive dog at all! I am almost positive that putting a grub screw on a rounded surface won't do anything right? (Won't do anything as in, wont contact or hold anything it's meaning to hold

[ray schrauwen]

This is another snag I was thinking you may run into. You MUST have a flat spot for the set screw of the drive dog or you will go nowhere.

So, now if you move it back a bit, the flat spot has moved. To fix this you need to grind the flat spot further back so the set screw can hold onto something 4-shure.

[Megabiker98]

Dangit, I had a feeling set screws needed a flat surface! Hahahah, going back to the loctite talk, if I applied the loctite to the nut itself, then screwed it on, it would reduce the possibility of it getting into the prop threads right???

[ray schrauwen]

Yes it would. Are you using Blue or the weak Purple stuff? In this case Blue is better.

[Megabiker98]

I'm gonna use the strongest stuff I can find! Hahahahaha, even then on the first run I'm gonna be bringing it in as it will be my first time using the boat on a longer wide open run, so this will be added to the list of frequent checks every time it's brought in! Lol

[ray schrauwen]

All the best. Hopefully you don't lose that prop!

[Megabiker98]

Ya, I'm super nervous cause I DON'T not want to loose it!! If I do, hopefully the divers that have been there the last 2 years will be there this time and can help me out!!! 😂

[Megabiker98]

Ran it a couple times this weekend, about 4 times or so ROUGHLY, the first time I ran it, I had the strut set to where u guys told me at first, and I am not positive but I think that was to much of an adjustment as it was pushing into the air a lot, but the wind was blowing into it also, flipped it 2 times the first run. Brought it in after the 2nd flip cause I was scared to death after that! Hahaha, 2nd run I decided to lower the strut to level with the sponsons, and ran it like that and it ran quite a bit better! Wouldn't say it was great but it was definently good! Wasn't flipping, and when it did start to get light on its heels I let out and it came down. The next couple runs ran exactly the same, and I was gonna run it this morning before we left and get some vid for u guys but I THINK the charger overheated or something. It stopped working and I only had 1 battery charged up so I couldn't get any video of it running! Flex shaft stayed in place this time moved MAYBE a mm at most and the prop didn't come loose it stayed on there good! And also if anyone has had the same experience with the over heating charger let me know what I should check. I have a thunder ac680 charger!

[Megabiker98]

So I ran it a couple more times today, at strut level with sponsons, ran it with this setup about 3-4 times, and it was still a little light as flipped a couple times. But it was windy, so the day came when the water was glass, and I ran it then and it still did the same thing, so I decided to make a change knowing that it wasn't setup properly yet, so I moved the batteries about an 1 inch forward ran it in slight chop/wind and it ran a little better so hopefully I can find out more next time I'm out!

[Megabiker98]

Ouch, so loctite definently does work. I am currently taking the prop off as I got a new one from kintecracing, and boy is that but on there GOOD!!!! It's giving me a little trouble!!!! Hahaha

[lenny]

If you use a little heat on the nut it will come off a little easier for you,
Just try not to heat anything else up.
Use some foil as a barrier to black the heat from things.