Blackjack29

[Davidrex]

I just got my first rc boat BJ29. I'm planning to run it stock this season. Does anyone know what is the best prop to put on stock set up to get more power out of this boat? I'm running 4s.

[stadiumyamaha]

Try either a x642 or m445 and check temps early and often.

[lenny]

What lipos do you have for it ?
And check the temps at the stock connector,
You should up grade them to 5.5 bullets and be good to go.

[Davidrex]

i have 2-2s 5000 in series and 2-4s 2650 parallel, by bullets you mean from motor to esc correct? will the motor wires handle it they seem very small?

[lenny]

Yes,
And also on the lipos to.
The stock connector in the boat are not good and will add resistance,
To the setup that will result in heat and loss of power.

What C rate are your packs ?

[Davidrex]

I'm using 35C and 40C packs, I only have one dean on the esc side, I got rid of the series setup as it came factory so I have 1 dean on it now. So you suggestion is to get rid of the dean and use bullets on battery side also?

[Davidrex]

Sorry I think you mean the wire that goes directly into esc on LIPO side, how do i install the bullets on it? cut it about 1" from ESC and install there? Do you have a picture??

Thank You.

[lenny]

Yes,
Run 5.5 on everything and your setup will be much happier.
And the C rate sound good, Just stay at 30 c or above.
Hey can you take some pictures of your wires and also of the transom hardware,
I would like to see the new rudder setup they did to the boat.

[Davidrex]

sure will post later when I get home

[lenny]

Did I help any ?:lol:

[Davidrex]

yes you did, 943779437894379:doh:

[Davidrex]

sorry took them the wrong way with my phone, always something

[Davidrex]

I want to get the M445 prop but I see they are all sold out when sharpened and balanced

[lenny]

Hear some info that you may already have in Pro Boat Q & A,
It is on page 3 of this link for props. http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?34781-PB-BlackJack-29
But their is more info on other stuff to.

And thanks for the pictures.

[lenny]

Cool,
Yes, Cut or desolder the the dean on the esc wires and put 5.5 on them,
Black gets the female plug and red gets the male plug.
On the lipos black gets the male plug and red gets the female plug.
And you will need to get or make a Y paralel plugs. http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?30639-*PYRO*-Parallel-bullet-connectors
943809438194382



yes you did, 943779437894379:doh:

[Archer]

Were you able to get the y-connectors
Im looking now

[bob_t]

I thought the new BJ29 came with EC3 connectors for the batteries? Also, be sure to check/balance the stock prop. I have found that they vary from "close to balanced" to "nowhere close to balanced", and if not balanced your rear strut bushing will wear (develop a lot of radial play), very quickly. One PB 4019 prop that I got was actually bored off center - no hope for that one!

[roadrashracing]

The boat does come with the ec3 but I think this person switched them out.

[bob_t]

I'm using 35C and 40C packs, I only have one dean on the esc side, I got rid of the series setup as it came factory so I have 1 dean on it now. So you suggestion is to get rid of the dean and use bullets on battery side also?

Oops, sorry, I didn't read close enough in this one. :ohmy:

[hydro_pyro]

Newbie question...

Should the shaft have this gap? I would have thought the plastic washer would be nearly seated? Should I re-chuck the collet to close this gap or what?

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/hydropyropyropyro/2EFB06A3-E329-4E3E-BD03-755C88D1BBC2-779-0000013CE9700A66.jpg

[lenny]

The gap should be the same as the OD of the flex shaft.
And you do not need the washer.

[hydro_pyro]

Huh?

[lenny]

The flex shafts Outside Diameter is a good gap at the strut or stinger to prop dog on boats.

[hydro_pyro]

Ok, thanks. :)

[lenny]

Where is your strut level set at ?

[hydro_pyro]

It's set where the factory set it. The propshaft centerline is about 1/8" above the bottom of the sponsons with neutral thrust angle.

[lenny]

You should put the hull on a flat table and set the strut level with the sponson's flat on the table,
If you want it to run nice and smooth.
And what cell will you be using in it ?

[hydro_pyro]

I was planning to raise it as others have suggested.
Running a pair of 5300 hardcase Nanos to start. (I have some 50c packs en route) Would like to add a third series pack up front for 6s at some point. ;) I have 90° bananas directly on the ESC wires as shown. I ran it tonight on 4s and I am totally addicted.

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/hydropyropyropyro/D8795909-419C-479B-9971-4718C27B0579-418-000000471755C406.jpg

[lenny]

The stock connector are bad news and are a weak link in the setup,
Also the pack with the bananas will come loose and you will need to rewire them to,
I run 5.5 bullets on just about all my setup and boats.
Those 2S pack could be moved about 1 1/2" back to where the motor meet the mount,
And it should run better for you with the strut level with the sponson's.

[hydro_pyro]

I have internally stabilized the bullet connectors on those hard packs and verified connection integrity. They should be good for current close to their C-rating. ;)

Those OSE bullets look like a superior design in terms of contact surface and pressure.

I was told the motor mount (33%) was a good COG point for this hull, which is where it's at with the packs in the location shown. When I ran it last night for the first time, the bow carried nicely under throttle, but not too high, with some of the typical porpoise at wide open throttle. You can actually see a second set of Velcro squares in there farther back, but I didnt try that location yet. So, what about the guys who are hanging their packs forward off the battery platforms and claiming excellent handling?

I'm familiar with the midrange tunnel porpoise effect on 1:1 cats, where the tunnel packs air, tries to lift, then burps the air out the back, over and over until a speed is achieved that allows the entire hull to ride flat on the air bubble with less positive trim. However, we don't have trim here, so I understand the handling will always have some compromise.

I will raise the strut before the next run... But what about the stuffing tube? Can it be slightly bent to accommodate a higher setting?

[lenny]

Sounds like you now your stuff on real boats,:tiphat:
And nice job on the prop you did.
You can do some of mine next.:noidea:

Yes you can if you want to bend it and raise it,
But why ?
These cat hulls like to be run level.
And just work the CG for ride attitude,
I am not sure why there CG is so off and why there putting there pack so far forward.:noidea:
This is mine it is a modded Mystic and I was taking it easy with it.
I did not have it taped up or any retrieval stuff with me,
It ran pretty good with the setup.
But I will be doing a few more mods to the boat.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?40261-Mystic-modded-setup-and-testing.

[Heaving Earth]

Raise your strut up 3/16. Most guys move their packs forward cause their struts are too low and it causes the bow to lift. Adding weight in the front is just a band aid. Simple strut raise is a much better solution

[hydro_pyro]

So, if I understand correctly, you're saying that the COG setting should be used to keep the bow up a tiny bit to reduce wetted hull area, while keeping less prop in the water, to minimize prop-induced bow lift while maximizing prop-induced stern lift. Sounds like a plan.

I raised the strut. There's about 3/16" of clearance still remaining between the prop and the strut frame, so it could still go higher if I wanted to.
Here's the boat sitting flat on the kitchen counter.

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/hydropyropyropyro/928B140F-30F5-4127-9360-52F1CA94C2AD-974-000002155FEE94B2.jpg

[lenny]

Hey,
What boat do you have, BJ29, Mystic29, Geico29 ?
And do you have any pictures of your setup or any video's of your boat running ?


Raise your strut up 3/16. Most guys move their packs forward cause their struts are too low and it causes the bow to lift. Adding weight in the front is just a band aid. Simple strut raise is a much better solution

[Heaving Earth]

So, if I understand correctly, you're saying that the COG setting should be used to keep the bow up a tiny bit to reduce wetted hull area, while keeping less prop in the water, to minimize prop-induced bow lift while maximizing prop-induced stern lift. Sounds like a plan.

I raised the strut. There's about 3/16" of clearance still remaining between the prop and the strut frame, so it could still go higher if I wanted to.
Here's the boat sitting flat on the kitchen counter.

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/hydropyropyropyro/928B140F-30F5-4127-9360-52F1CA94C2AD-974-000002155FEE94B2.jpg
Yup that's what I'm sayin. You actually grasp this concept I see...
You could Probly go higher, but just go in 1/8 increments at a time. You will notice a large improvement in handling raising it

[Heaving Earth]

Lenny I had a geico for a while. No video or anything, I didn't keep it very long.

[jeffrey1]

p220.