SV43 1.7m (66'')

[jason philllips]

Hi Guys (and gals)

thought I would put up some pics as i go and see if there is any interest, if there is i will keep them coming as i go along.

the hull is a full Carbon / Kevlar construction with a Kevlar top to allow for radio signal.

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[Rumdog]

signing on..
Lots of cool big mono builds happening right now!

[Rocstar]

A great looking hull for sure. Is this the same one you painted blue?

[jason philllips]

hi Joel

yes that's the one, how ever i was not 100% happy with the finish so it is back to base primer and is being fitted out now (previously was not going to fit out)

[jason philllips]

hi Joel

yes that's the one, how ever i was not 100% happy with the finish so it is back to base primer and is being fitted out now (previously was not going to fit out)

[jason philllips]

1st job was to clean up the hull, unfortunately there was a rough join at the seem which took allot of sanding filling and sanding. also filled some imperfections on other parts too. then set to mark and drill off the windscreen ready for rivets to help give that real look

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[Espresso]

Is this one of Andy's hulls from Germany? Are you from the states? Just curious how much this beauty set you back. They are very popular in Europe it seems.

[jason philllips]

Is this one of Andy's hulls from Germany? Are you from the states? Just curious how much this beauty set you back. They are very popular in Europe it seems.

Hi Espresso,

We're in the UK, yes Andy laid this up, however it is to my specs with layers / core / materials so is not to his standard or list price of around £650 from memory,

Jason & Nicky

[Espresso]

Ah, gotcha. Sounds like your hull is even more expensive than the standard one, haha! Look forward to the build and seeing that components you decide on. Very few seems to make it across this side of the pond. From the size of the box, I can see why (aside from the price tag).

[jason philllips]

next job was to add some vents, for visuals and to allow some heat build up out as required. these will eventually have under trays with water drains on to help keep the water out.

Jason

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[jason philllips]

fitted a grill and put on the body filler. i find it much easier to lay it on quickly and then take the time to sand it of rather then the other way round.

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[iridebikes247]

Takes guts to cut into a hull like that, the vents look awesome! I take my time sanding too so I don't need to fill in material again. Can't wait to see this thing on the water, something very cool about big super fast monos.

[jason philllips]

thanks iridebikes247. i didn't want it to be a standard hull, and didnt want to take the easier option of a top mounted vent so decided i just had to cut it and see :)
here is how it ended up, also did the hatch lid too

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[Jason4636]

I take it this build is going to be a gas boat.

[jason philllips]

I take it this build is going to be a gas boat.

Hi Jason4636,

no this will be electric build. 99% sure it will be twin CC2028

Jason

[Jason4636]

Why did you cut vents in the hull? Just for looks? How are you going to keep out all the water

[jason philllips]

Why did you cut vents in the hull? Just for looks? How are you going to keep out all the water

yes to make it look a little more realistic.

there will be an angled under tray with drains at the lower points. if this does not seem to keep every last bit out i will Velcro in some super absorbent cloth to the under side

Jason

[jason philllips]

high build primer on the local area to start to blend, this will be followed by an all over shot to blend the whole boat, 3rd shot will be standard primer



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[Jason4636]

I would have tried to build up that area around the vent. Where I wouldn't have to cut the hull. What if when you crash, it rolls over and lets in a bunch of water. There goes all your electronic. I try and seal a boat to be water tight


It does look good thou

[rscheffer]

I can't wait to get mine ,should be here soon.
Will be an electric version also .
What kind of power are you planning.

This is a French man he build it with tp5850 600 rpmv on 10s8000 zippflightpower per engine.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zpqacQQu9E

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2bMGSMkjuI


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0nBnUH7I18

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w02rW1pC2Rc

Some more inspiration from germany. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QGNTAQjXwo&feature=youtube_gdata_player


Greatings Ramon

[jason philllips]

Some Great Video's Ramon

Jason, hopefully it wont crash :/ but with that in mind im planning on putting all the electrics i can inside another box some how. haven't quite got there yet, but it will more than likely make use of the rail type motor mounts that will be extended higher than the motors allowing me to have captive nuts in them which in turn will allow me to bolt down a cover. with luck, this will keep out all water, and in the event of a crash (fingers crossed i don't test this :) ) wont allow the inertia of all the heavy objects to cause too much damage as they will be well secured and backed up by said cover.

one thing i am finding with this hull, annoying and unfortunate, is it is not 100% even and symmetrical, not the end of the world but makes all the jobs a bit longer. so when it comes to trying to make the box / bulk heads / stringers / runners it wont be as easy as i thought. (any one got any tricks to templating this other than the obvious card and pencil i'd love to hear it, any thing to help cut time and give a good job :)

Jason and Nicola

[rscheffer]

If you are building it do keep. In mind that it will crash ones in a while accept when you are planning of cruising around with 30 kmh or so.
Be sure you can bolt your hatch tight in alteast 6 places because of its size.
And always juse tape to make it waterproof.this is the best i have had , and beleve me i have teste alot of different types

http://mbp-rc.de/MBP-Tape-30mm-x-33m-transparent_1
http://mbp-rc.de/MBP-Tape-50mm-x-33m-transparent
Gr Ramon

[Espresso]

Awesome work so far. I thought with the real vents it was gas too. Given the cost of the hull, it's unfortunate it's not perfectly symmetrical.

Btw, has anyone come across plans for an SV43? 66" is a big mono. I was thinking sizing it down to 45"-55" range. I know a baby SV43 exist (48") but it's bound to be expensive as well.

[Jason4636]

Awesome work so far. I thought with the real vents it was gas too. Given the cost of the hull, it's unfortunate it's not perfectly symmetrical.

Btw, has anyone come across plans for an SV43? 66" is a big mono. I was thinking sizing it down to 45"-55" range. I know a baby SV43 exist (48") but it's bound to be expensive as well.
Check out Central RC Marine. Rick makes a 59" outerlimits. Joel Mentz is building one right now. Go look in the build area for more detailed pictures.

http://shop.centralrcmarine.com/58-Outerlimits-6.htm

Joels build
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?39428-59-Outerlimits-SV43-quot-Voltaic-quot

[CHUD]

This is lookin good :popcorn2:

[Espresso]

Check out Central RC Marine. Rick makes a 59" outerlimits. Joel Mentz is building one right now. Go look in the build area for more detailed pictures.

http://shop.centralrcmarine.com/58-Outerlimits-6.htm

Joels build
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?39428-59-Outerlimits-SV43-quot-Voltaic-quot
I still think this SV43 made by Andy in Germany is by far the most scale and best looking step mono hull. It also seems to handle choppy waters really well from the vids. I guess it does help being 5.5 foot long.

Btw, although it might be too late but you could fill in the underside of the grills with bondo/filler since you're painting it anyways. After you sand it smooth, add a few layers of CF to reinforce the area. It won't look as scale but at least you won't have to worry about leaks if your boat flips. Looking forward to the progress.

[jason philllips]

Hi all,

got the all over shot of high build to blend it.

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[jason philllips]

the all over shot of standard primer. now for some hard ware :w00t:

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[jason philllips]

marked up the drive fixing holes, the trim tab and the exhaust-water dump mountings. (the blue was in between coats as wasn't happy with outcome)

Jason

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[jason philllips]

several lines for the exhaust / water dumps so i could hold them in place and see which one gave the best visuals.....

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[jason philllips]

Drives and exhausts dry fitted.....

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[Rumdog]

How ya gonna mount the rudder??

[Jason4636]

It might just be me? But in picture #4 your drives look kind of far from the transom bottom

[rscheffer]

Why did you mount your drives so high , as low as possible is much more effective for a twin mono.
You can run smaler props wich give a more steady drive and in turns the outside prop is not lifted so much.
Here is an example how most drivee are fitted
http://rc-powerboat-forum.de/index.php?action=posts&fid=13&tid=10109&hl=%22Sv43%22&site=2
Keep up the good work you are on a good pase.

Gr Ramon

[Jason4636]

Why did you mount your drives so high , as low as possible is much more effective for a twin mono.
You can run smaler props wich give a more steady drive and in turns the outside prop is not lifted so much.
Here is an example how most drivee are fitted
http://rc-powerboat-forum.de/index.php?action=posts&fid=13&tid=10109&hl=%22Sv43%22&site=2
Keep up the good work you are on a good pase.

Gr Ramon

That is WD200 hardware, its the same as I'm using on my boat.
Post # 45
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?39394-MHZ-Mystic-56-quot-Mono/page2

[rscheffer]

I know the wd200 drives.
I am planing the mtc struts, strut holders and 20 mm extention blocks , they work simular but are a little less bulky and are lighter.
Here are some builds i also used them for.


http://electricpowerboats.actie-forum.com/t1274-twin-elektro-skater
http://www.xtremercboats.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?nomobile=1&f=3&t=19731&hilit=Twin+rcmk+skater&start=15

[jason philllips]

Hi Jason

the drives are mounded 10mm up from the out side bottom as this is the core thickness. they are at 100mm centres which after toe in will be around 90mm which will allow me to swing up to 80mm props with 10mm clearance (plan is to make a tie bar when i have time) as I can have an easy 10HP to absorb if i want to. the drives are also are 175mm long with the prop starting at 145mm after the transom. much like a real boat the water will have risen at that point making the height less, so should in theory actually keep the drag down. another plus side is that I can easily undo the required to extract the stub shaft as and when is needed.

Hi Ramon,

i will try and get some pics of the rudder mount, i mocked it up out of foam and then we are milling it at the moment, had not seen that rudder that is on the other forum befor, but it is similar to that, accept the taper runs from deck height down to a mounting plate and it is longer, to get back behind the props.

i will keep the pics coming if you want to see them, but the build is unfortunately going to slow a little after this week as its now getting very busy at work.

[jason philllips]

hi!

made up the water pick up from s/steel, polished and welded....haven't decided what i'm going to do yet, either split the two into four and cool ESC's and Motors seperatley, or keep it as two and run them in one system for each side

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[jason philllips]

water pick up dry fitted

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[Heaving Earth]

Aren't you worried about the amount of drag that pickup is gonna make? Generally it only takes a very small portion of the tip of an angled tube in the water to make plenty of flow. Maybe it's the way it looks in the pic, but they look buried, are they adjustable?

[jason philllips]

Aren't you worried about the amount of drag that pickup is gonna make? Generally it only takes a very small portion of the tip of an angled tube in the water to make plenty of flow. Maybe it's the way it looks in the pic, but they look buried, are they adjustable?

Hi Heaving Earth,

not too worried about the drag as at first I want to make absolutely sure there is plenty of water flow.so i can test everything one by one with out worrying about everything the first time it hits the water. when it comes to tuning them, they are adjustable in as much as I can easily cut off in small increments as I need, (easier to cut off than add on :thumbup1: )

also want it to look some what realistic :smile:

Jason

[lenny]

:thumbup1:
That thing should look like a water canon shooting at you as it go's by.:popcorn2:

[Rumdog]

I think those vents may come back to bite you.

[twissted]

Water always finds holes in boats. Gas boats will let you get some water but never electric. looking at the boat that your using as a blue print shows great handeling in ruff water due to the added weight that was done to make it water proof. I would not have went down this path myself. But it is a nice boat and yours is looking to be also.

[jason philllips]

Water always finds holes in boats. Gas boats will let you get some water but never electric. looking at the boat that your using as a blue print shows great handeling in ruff water due to the added weight that was done to make it water proof. I would not have went down this path myself. But it is a nice boat and yours is looking to be also.

Hi Rumdog / twissted

i'm really not too worried about the water getting it as I think with a plate on the inside of the hatch one, it is the same as not having a vent in at all, and the aft one will defiantly have box with drains as a minimum, but due to the potential crash issue (i have now seen one roll on you tube) i will probably put the carbon fibre plate on that too.

on another note, also due to the slipping out I have seen on occasions, I have decided to mod the MHZ trim tabs and build in ''turn fins''

whats your thoughts?

Jason + Nicola

[Rocstar]

Hi Rumdog / twissted

i'm really not too worried about the water getting it as I think with a plate on the inside of the hatch one, it is the same as not having a vent in at all, and the aft one will defiantly have box with drains as a minimum, but due to the potential crash issue (i have now seen one roll on you tube) i will probably put the carbon fibre plate on that too.

on another note, also due to the slipping out I have seen on occasions, I have decided to mod the MHZ trim tabs and build in ''turn fins''

whats your thoughts?

Jason + Nicola
My SV43 has strakes added back to the transom. Central RC did this to help with handling. Might be something to consider.

[Jason4636]

I think your build is cool looking, and I'm not bugging you on the vents. But if you knew at the start you was going to cut some fairly large holes for your vents, then turn around and seal them back up with CF plate. Why didn't you just modify the vents? Like epoxy them to the top of the deck, throw some body filler on them, like you did. And just blend them in that way. By cutting holes in the canopy and the hull, you didn't just give the water a way in. You lost some of the hull and canopy strength as well. I just hope that after you have this all built. That you don't have a high speed crash, and find out that you CF plate didn't hold out the water. And it fry's all you electronics. I think for the price of 2 motors, 2 esc's, servos, etc, etc. Its a very high price to pay, just to have vents put on your hull!!!!

[jason philllips]

Hi Jason,

at the very start it was coing to be a twin Gas boat, so it needed the vents to help with ventilation. after i tried my hand at electric i knew the big one had to be also..... i see your concerns, and if i knew from the very start then of cause i wouldnt have cut the through holes. but since its done i'll just work with it.... also if the CF blank should fail (which i hope it wont, or wont ever be tested :) ) then the intenral sealed bulk heads / stringers should keep all the water away from the vital electronics.

Jason

[twissted]

Heavy man, heavy!

[jason philllips]

Hi every one,

been away from OSE for a while, absolutely flat out with ''real work'' so just not had time for the boat, or to read the posts on here (lots to read this week end)

managed to squeeze in a bit of work in the rudder and the trim tabs with a friend that runs a machine shop.

[jason philllips]

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[jason philllips]

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[jason philllips]

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[jason philllips]

that's the rudder stand off bracket to get it back behind the props. it will be glued and bolted up through the transom over hang. the aft edge is andgle to help take in to account the rough trim angle and help keep the rudder square to the water surface, so when it turns it only tries to turn and not dig the back end of the boat in and create more load on on it / slow it down / drag etc.

i've left the trim tab mods at the work shop, they now have built in turn fins to help try and make it track true and straight, but more so, keep the back end in check through out turns and also act a bit of help shout the drive / rudder ever fail

Jason

[jason philllips]

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[jason philllips]

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[jason philllips]

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[Jason4636]

Did you ever finish this boat?

[jason philllips]

Hi Jason,

no :( it is wrapped up in the garage. still at the above stage. been so busy at work and with home improvements i just haven't found the time. im not sure i will until winter :(


Jason