1954 Breathless U-22 1/10 scale build Garry Finlay plan

[studioRS]

Planning to build to Classic Thunder, e-rcu running gear and racing specs. TURN LEFT, right side rudder, 1/8" solid shaft, built up strut, PB 1500kv motor. I live up in Northern Vermont and don't see any racing action (yet...), keeping the same size as the plan with some mild changes in wood specs and running gear.

Last boat I built was in 1992, a 1/16 Dumas Thiftway Too with Graupner Speed 600BB, Hughey running gear and six nicads. Ran it in Lake Tahoe where I lived.

Jump in the Hot Tub Time machine and pop out in 1976, I worked for Charlie Pottol at Marine Specialties in Saratoga, CA. used to race time trials at the perc ponds with Gary / Joel Johnson and NAMBA. So, I've been out of boats for a while, but I have been building sailplanes and flying still very much still involved in RC hobby. Glad to be able to post my RC enthusiasm.

Cheers, Thompson

Mitch D sent me some photos of his winning 1/10 scale hull and build back from 1999.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92803&d=1359477919

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92808&d=1359477925

Also sent me some of the real Breathless U-22 from his archive, he is THE man!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92807&d=1359477924

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[studioRS]

I've had the plans laser cut and added some lightening holes in the bulkheads. Also used 1/16 ply with 1/16" balsa laminate instead of 3/32 balsa with 1/64 ply. Substituted lightened 1/8" ply for the bulkheads and stringers instead of solid 1/8" balsa.

This was my plan for setup and gear

Motor: ProBoat A3630 1500kv (http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/a3630-1500kv-6-pole-water-cooled-marine-motor-DYNM3835)
Battery: 4S 5000mah 45C
ESC: Turnigy Marine 120
Rudder: Marine Specialties of course !
Drive: 1/8" 316 stainless steel, built brass strut, Octura oilite bearings
Prop: Graupner K45, K51 and Octura X447R
Engine: Classichydros.com Allison V12 1710
Wood: 1/32" Birch ply, 1/8" lite ply, 1/16" balsa, Sitka Spruce
Glue: UHU Hart, Zap medium CA, kicker, Fiberglass

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92809&d=1359477926

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[studioRS]

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[studioRS]

Thanks Steve at OSE for the parts.

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92897&d=1359478842

Race ready goodness still to this day. Yeah, ok so it's not CNC, its vintage, retro and will match my build. Marine Specialties safety shear rudder, proudly Made in the USA. My old employer and I even have replacement teflon bushings I've been saving since 1977 - OMG!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92880&d=1359478580

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[studioRS]

Built the rear hatch, sealed the insides with Systems Three epoxy, added a motor mount and started on installing the foam.

Cheers, Thompson

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[studioRS]

More photos...

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94716&d=1362419517

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[studioRS]

Just giving a heads up, classichydros.com has a new website and super easy to order eCommerce store with this new scale hydroplane kit available.

http://www.classichydros.com

Cheers, Thompson

Expanded Short Kits include 1/16" deck skins and all bottom sheeting (tunnel sheet not shown).

1954 Breathless U-22 (no air traps, squared off top deck).
http://images.ecwid.com/images/1848044/68952446.jpg

1959+ Style with air traps and rounded top deck. Comes with Wayfarers Club Lady fin.
http://images.ecwid.com/images/1848044/68952447.jpg


Short Kits framing only with rear hatch
1954 Breathless U-22
http://images.ecwid.com/images/1848044/77663466.jpg

1959+ Style
http://images.ecwid.com/images/1848044/77663467.jpg

[studioRS]

More progress photos, getting caught up here, sorry have been busy building :-)

Status- the hull is actually finished and getting painted today, all hardware has been fitted and should be ready for final assembly this week. Off to Lake Tahoe next for the maiden!

Cheers, Thompson

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100713&d=1371481236

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Test fitting the decks.
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[studioRS]

More progress...

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[studioRS]

Dashboard building...

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[studioRS]

Propshaft is set at 6.9 degrees.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100752&d=1371481317

Front bow dam
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[studioRS]

Sealed the hull outsides with Systems 3 Epoxy.

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100748&d=1371481312

While the hull was out for priming for paint, I dug into the Classichydros.com Allison V-1710 engine.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100749&d=1371481313

The intake manifolds require some creative sanding to match the real Allison.
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[studioRS]

Back from the painter, I got the job of sanding primer every night...

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1/10 scale highly über kewl Tamiya 4WD driver kit modified with home made life vest, 1954 backdated helmet, scratch built goggles, leather side straps, cloth wrapped wheel. As aplus, the laser cut wheel is included in the kit from Classichydros.com
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100756&d=1371481322

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To make the goggles I used a photo from John Surtees F1 driver, but I actually do have a pair from my ski racing days :-)
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100758&d=1371481324

Turnigy Marine 120A fits nicely into an old Apple Magic Mouse clear box. Should seal up well with some hatch tape.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100759&d=1371481325

More photos to come after I get it back from paint. Cheers, Thompson

[studioRS]

Came out a little darker than I wanted, but looks nice. Under a sunny light blue sky it should pop and look a little lighter. Time to unmask the bottom and mask over the blue so it can be clear coated underneath.

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[electric]

Looking good!

[JimClark]

How the heck did you get so far off on the color?

[studioRS]

I just shot some new photos outside with ambient light and Light blue sky, big puffy white clouds (my iPhone 4 also notoriously shoots dark anyway with indoor tungsten lighting). Not sure why the paint shop doesn't have better lights - egads.... Looking at these photos, you'd think it was a completely different paint job.

The Speedster blue seems to reflect what is being reflected as you can clearly see in the dark sunroof and the clouds. Yummy.

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[JimClark]

Thats better still a little dark like you say but much better. Alright get this baby running

[studioRS]

The paint is a tick too dark, my bad, but does look nice. When specing this, I thought the original real Breathless paint looks to be close to 1954 Porsche Speedster Blue R602. The paint shop only had NEXA Autocolour water based and I found the latest Porsche "PurBlau" which in the book looked to be similar and I told him to use that rather than saying, "can you match this color?". Newbie move, oh well, lesson learned will setup to mix paint myself in the future and darn! I now can build a lighter version in the correct color, muhaaaa!

1954 Porsche Speedster Blua
http://www.pnutz.us/images/reference/colorcharts/356/1954/0s.jpg

And the newest incarnation of this Porsche color, which is 2011 Porsche "PurBlau" which is what I choose. Looks right to me in this photo and as I've shown really depends on the photographic lighting.
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4147/5053939066_7ae9f5817b.jpg

Another shot of the same Porsche PurBlau, this time dark like my photos inside showed.
http://i.max.de/imedia/885/575885_tx20wcSPU0zJSLysqxD9MHKEv96FPqevtqQ5mMIZTi8 =.jpg

Since I seem to be on a beginners streak without any luck lately...

Q - Wires on the Marine 120A ESC, any specific order for running reverse rotation X447R prop? Or is this controlled on the Tx programing and reverse there?

Cheers, Thompson

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100855&d=1371654382

[NorCalZ71]

Hook it up and test. If it spins backwards swap any 2 wires and your good to go!

Kevin.
Nsr customs.

[studioRS]

That sounds too easy, nice! Thanks.

[studioRS]

I was able to maiden this at Camp Richardson pier in Lake Tahoe. I designed www.classichydros.com website and totally forgot to post the video in my build thread. On to building another 1/10 similar later year shovel nose.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVcyJnkIdeA

[eric_laermans]

Nice build, but does need some trimming for better speed/ handling IMHO. I guess if you move the CG more aft, it can handle more throttle easily.

[studioRS]

Yes, currently in for a repaint to tick lighter blue. Also working on other Octura 447R props and weight distribution to the rear.
Cheers, Thompson

[eric_laermans]

Me just being curious... why is it you use a 1500kV combined with 4s setup and a pretty large 447R (or equivalent)? Personally, I think it could easily handle a 5s setup or a motor with more kV. These 1/10 scale hydro's should be able to hit 47MPH easily.

[studioRS]

Although I'm not a member, I built this to somewhat mimic Classicthunder.us / e-rcu rules as of around 2011. According to e-rcu, the ProBoat 3650-1500kv is also NAMBA approved. Both clubs changed a bit since 2011 when I started building and now use different motors. But yes, totally agree it is a big hull and stout, could easily run 5S2P, if I could find a way to shoehorn them in! The Classicthunder and e-rcu rules try to replicate the real hydroplanes back in 1954 and they raced counter-clockwise on the course. The 447R prop and clock-wise rotation keeps the torque roll on the port side which is good and on the inside of the turn. After I get this dialed back in, I'm hoping to get close to 40+mph with current setup.

http://classicthunder.us/rulebook.htm

http://www.ercu-hydros.com/#!boats/cghg

[leonard feeback]

Hi, nice job on the U-22 build. looks like the boat is porpoising. Try taking a little of the tips of your prop, that should take a little lift out of the prop. You don't want to get a lot of weight on prop to fix the problem. That will make the motor work harder which meant heat. You may have to move the strut up a little toward the bottom to fix the problem. You want the middle of the prop shaft at the back of the prop to be the depth of the sponsons at the air trap side.

[oliver]

the plan has no pictures of hoe to set up the sdtrut system can send me one. thanks ray fuller

[studioRS]

the plan has no pictures of hoe to set up the sdtrut system can send me one. thanks ray fuller

Hi Ray, I glued in a hardwood block with blind nut and socket head stainless steel bolt and washer, seal with marine goop.

Used Aquacraft strut, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCGEU

Hope this helps.
Cheers, Thompson

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[studioRS]

Hi, nice job on the U-22 build. looks like the boat is porpoising. Try taking a little of the tips of your prop, that should take a little lift out of the prop. You don't want to get a lot of weight on prop to fix the problem. That will make the motor work harder which meant heat. You may have to move the strut up a little toward the bottom to fix the problem. You want the middle of the prop shaft at the back of the prop to be the depth of the sponsons at the air trap side.

Yes, thanks for the kudos and ride tips. Currently hull is out for repaint to lighter shade of blue and have several props ready to wake the Breathless U-22 up again reducing the rear prop weight and hop.

Cheers, Thompson

[Big Bill]

First off your boat is a work of art, wish I had the skills to build something so beautiful. Your Hot Tub Time Machine brought back a lot of great memories for me as I was friends with Gary and Joel in the mid-70s but knew them from racing RC cars. Gary was a great guy just a few years older the me, but a kid at heart. He was always tiring to get me to build a boat and run with them at the Perk Ponds, wish I would have taken the offer then, but 40+ years later the boats have bitten me ...Hard. I seem to remember that he ran the Miss Budweiser boat or at least there always seemed to be one on the display case at Hobbies Galore. Miss him and those days. Thanks for the memories.