HPR C5009 Bulletproof Animal build.

[KillerDave]

Hi guys.... and girls!

Ok, this is going to be my first build to be documented on here and it might take a while but bear with me and it will come together! :-)

So, I have placed my order for (as you can see) a HPR C5009 Bulletproof including the HPR drives, rudder and hydraulic steering rams and they should be on their way very soon!!!!!

The other parts going into this build will not be so "Top-End" but I have seen other similar builds and I should get good results???

Leopard 4082/2200kv,
SeaKing 180A ESC's,
LiPo's not sure yet, maybe Turnigy 6s 4-5000mAh or Dinogy 6s 4-5000mAh???
Sävox sc 1251 mg servo,
Telemetry kit, probably Eagletree???
X-442-7 L&R props

Not only is this my 1st build on here, but it's also my 1st top end build! I know from all the great builds, there are a lot of you who have far more knowledge and experience than I do so please have your say! ESPECIALLY if I'm doing anything wrong or I could do better if... Any help and advice is always appreciated.. :-)

Thanks for looking and all I can do for now is wait, I'm not good at that! He, he....

[srislash]

This is a good time to buy more parts while you wait, LOL. Collets,shafts,connectors.Methyl Hydrate for getting the smoky smell out.Hehe.

[bull7]

:thumbup::popcorn2:

[sampit]

If your looking for a pair of Dinogy 6s 51000 65c packs I could save you
a lot of time,expense
I have 4 brand new
packs two packs will be for sale and they are already here in the UK
and they are freshly made factory packs.
just thought I would mention it.diffrent league to the turnigy packs.

[KillerDave]

Sampit, you have a PM!

[KillerDave]

This is a good time to buy more parts while you wait, LOL. Collets,shafts,connectors.Methyl Hydrate for getting the smoky smell out.Hehe.

I have a bunch of stuff on way but the big things are going to wait 'til later.... Motors are on way to my supplier too!!!

[KillerDave]

Oh my word! I have been tracking the parcel from Hanspeter every day and I makes me mad at how slow some people/systems work!!!
It took 1 day to go from Switzerland to the UK and another 10 days to go through the UK customs and then to be handed over to ParcelForce.
Well, it's now at my local office so I think I will collect it tonight, I can't wait any longer!!!!

[Xcesive8]

If your looking for a pair of Dinogy 6s 51000 65c packs I could save you
a lot of time,expense
I have 4 brand new
packs two packs will be for sale and they are already here in the UK
and they are freshly made factory packs.
just thought I would mention it.diffrent league to the turnigy packs.

You must run big boats to be able to run 51000 packs hehe.
Good run time i bet!

[silver]

he looks good i've got almost the same set up but with 5s 5000mA, hope the winter is here quick over that i can do some more test runs.
good luck with the build:thumbup1:

[KillerDave]

Well, after a longer wait than I could bare, my new HPR C5009 is here! Although, I did have to pay £111.37 tax!!!
Here are some pic's....
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/DSC_0261.jpg
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/DSC_0260.jpg
I'm having problems with Photobucket so when I have that sorted, I'll post more....

[nata2run]

.....and this is where the fun part starts lol

[KillerDave]

And so it does!!!
Man, I wish I had a machine shop at home!!!
I am making a jig to drill the rudder and because I don't have the facilities, it will not be pretty but it should work.
Right now I'm off to get some slow resin to fill the tail up some.
Also, another part (none of us enjoy for the first time) I am going to drill the transoms for the drives!!!
BTW, I have the single nut drives so in theory, they should be much easier!?!?!?
Right, resin....

[BlackSnakeRacing]

Hi guys.... and girls!

Ok, this is going to be my first build to be documented on here and it might take a while but bear with me and it will come together! :-)

So, I have placed my order for (as you can see) a HPR C5009 Bulletproof including the HPR drives, rudder and hydraulic steering rams and they should be on their way very soon!!!!!

The other parts going into this build will not be so "Top-End" but I have seen other similar builds and I should get good results???

Leopard 4082/2200kv,
SeaKing 180A ESC's,
LiPo's not sure yet, maybe Turnigy 6s 4-5000mAh or Dinogy 6s 4-5000mAh???
Sävox sc 1251 mg servo,
Telemetry kit, probably Eagletree???
X-442-7 L&R props

Not only is this my 1st build on here, but it's also my 1st top end build! I know from all the great builds, there are a lot of you who have far more knowledge and experience than I do so please have your say! ESPECIALLY if I'm doing anything wrong or I could do better if... Any help and advice is always appreciated.. :-)

Thanks for looking and all I can do for now is wait, I'm not good at that! He, he....


2200kv on 6S? Am surprised that no one else picked that up....

[KillerDave]

2200kv on 6S? Am surprised that no one else picked that up....

There are a few very similar builds and I believe that they run relatively cool...
Perhaps one of the "pro's' can chip in and qualify that???

[BlackSnakeRacing]

will like to see what they say, i have smoked 2200kv leo's on 6S and taken out the esc at the same time. That was in the first run, with a new motor. 2200kv on 6S is 48840 rpm unloaded.....

[KillerDave]

will like to see what they say, i have smoked 2200kv leo's on 6S and taken out the esc at the same time. That was in the first run, with a new motor. 2200kv on 6S is 48840 rpm unloaded.....

Take a look at Manuels 3 day build
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?35792-HPR-C5009-3-day-build-!!!&highlight=3+day+build
exactly this spec' apart from the motors and it runs great!
What are your sugestions???

[KillerDave]

BTW, What timing did you run???

[BlackSnakeRacing]

cant remember exactly what the timing was, was either 11.25 or 15deg. You may get away with the 2200kv, i'm just going of what i have read and my experiences. I was running it in a 42" deep V which will probably make a difference in temps from what you will find. To be safe if it was me i would run the 2200 on 5S (40700rpm unloaded) but even that is in the SAW range. TP and leo are different quality, the TP may be able to handle the higher rev's better than a leo, i am unsure on this as i havent run a TP but unless you are running the exact same setup you can expect different results in some way.

[KillerDave]

cant remember exactly what the timing was, was either 11.25 or 15deg. You may get away with the 2200kv, i'm just going of what i have read and my experiences. I was running it in a 42" deep V which will probably make a difference in temps from what you will find. To be safe if it was me i would run the 2200 on 5S (40700rpm unloaded) but even that is in the SAW range. TP and leo are different quality, the TP may be able to handle the higher rev's better than a leo, i am unsure on this as i havent run a TP but unless you are running the exact same setup you can expect different results in some way.

Thank you for your input, It has given me some food for thought...:thumbup1:

[norbique]

TP motors are better than Leo's. With that high RPM you need to start with smaller props measure temps, and gradually go up with the props not to burn up everything on first try...

[KillerDave]

TP motors are better than Leo's. With that high RPM you need to start with smaller props measure temps, and gradually go up with the props not to burn up everything on first try...

Completely understand... Thank you, I have just sent TP an e-mail but, Do they have outlets? Who can I buy from???
Also, I have info on the BEC on the ESC's, no good over 6s??? Can I disable it and run a receiver pack?

Thanks for your help norbique!

[BlackSnakeRacing]

To disable the BEC and run a reciever pack all you need is a servo extension, remove the red wire from it and plug into your esc and rx. You need the red wire on the esc to program the esc so dont cut it or remove it from the connector, using the servo extension as a sacrificial item still allows for programming ;) Not sure where you can get them locally in the UK but i know i can buy them here in Oz so there should be somewhere ;)

[KillerDave]

To disable the BEC and run a reciever pack all you need is a servo extension, remove the red wire from it and plug into your esc and rx. You need the red wire on the esc to program the esc so dont cut it or remove it from the connector, using the servo extension as a sacrificial item still allows for programming ;) Not sure where you can get them locally in the UK but i know i can buy them here in Oz so there should be somewhere ;)

If you mean the servo lead, no problem! 10 a penny here.
Thanks for the info... I'm still a little way off... Got holes to drill!!!! Aghhh!!!

[BlackSnakeRacing]

was referring to the TP motors as to availability locally for you, servo externsions are everywhere ;)

[KillerDave]

Oh ok, they have to be ordered in and am looking at it... Thanks again....

[KillerDave]

TP's are on their way soon!!! Thanks for the advice on that guys! I know it will pay to listen to you, more experienced FEers!
I have been doing some work and I will post pictures soon.
Drilling holes in a top-end hull is not for the faint-hearted!!!
The rudder is on minus the rams, they are going on tonight....
I've drilled the holes for the drives but I want to fit back plates too so I hope to Finish the drives this week....

[Tomcandersen]

Where did you get your TP motors?

[KillerDave]

Where did you get your TP motors?

Direct from the factory Tom, http://www.tppower.com/sort.asp?class_id=4&news=62

[KillerDave]

Sorry, I had to run for a course at work!
An other member (Sampit) was placing an order and he tagged mine on his...

[KillerDave]

Ok folks,

I have done a little but for some reason Photobucket is trying to kill me!!!????

The rudder and drives are fitted although, I did have problems with the single nut drives, I think I would have been better off with the old style drives....
It's all sorted now, and the flexis are in the oven.... :-)

I have also made small sleeves to make a nice and tight fit between the drives and the prop tube.

I will try to take some pics using my phone.....

Here goes....

[ManuelW]

Hi Dave,

progress sounds good, will await the pictures. :thumbup1:
If questions arrive, feel free to ask me! By the way as you didn't mention, which TP size and kv did you go for?

regards,
Manuel

[KillerDave]

Hi Dave,

progress sounds good, will await the pictures. :thumbup1:
If questions arrive, feel free to ask me! By the way as you didn't mention, which TP size and kv did you go for?

regards,
Manuel

Hi Manuel,

I am struggling with Photobucket but I think I have it cracked! Photo's to follow....

I have some custom copetition motors being made as we speek. they are 2200kv 4050's only they wont tell me what they do to them, only that they are "explosive force, power, efficiency is more outstanding on copetition version" his words!
I believe they shoud run cooler and be easier on the rest of the system???

[KillerDave]

Ok, there should be some pictures here???
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0316.jpg
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0317.jpg
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0315.jpg
one of the drive height adjusters is about 1mm out of line but I can fix that.... I will be much happier when the rear end is buttoned up!!!
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0313.jpg
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0306.jpg
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0314.jpg

At the moment, I need to shrink my hands so I can put the nuts on the drive posts :-/
Clear out round the bolt heads for the rudder and resin it all in...

As ever, all and any comments are welcome....

[lavigna]

Looks great! Very clean. I am at about the same stage in my build (same hull) but it has taken me much longer to get here.

I used fuel line to get the small rudder hydraulic nuts started. I think I saw that somewhere on here, and it worked well.

[KillerDave]

Looks great! Very clean. I am at about the same stage in my build (same hull) but it has taken me much longer to get here.

I used fuel line to get the small rudder hydraulic nuts started. I think I saw that somewhere on here, and it worked well.

Awesome idea! I'll give it a try, thanks!!! :-y
By the way, I just looked at your build..... After work today, I'm hitting it.... Finnish off the nuts, water pick-ups, motor and servo mounts..... Lol...

I think you will be in the water sooner than me but I'll try to keep up....

[KillerDave]

Hi folks,

I have spent a little while fighting the fixings that hold the rear end together...
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0322.jpg
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0323.jpg
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0326.jpg

Can anyone tell me if I need to resin this lot in?
I will at some point be painting it so I will need to remove the rudder at least.... Around the drives will stay White so they can be masked of...

[KillerDave]

Sorry about the quality of the pictures... :-/

[ManuelW]

Hi Dave,

well the 4050L/6D listed at their homepage is rated with 2200kv so I think thats the motor you will get. And their motors are really good, I think no need for further competition motors. Its also the question what they could improve?

Anyway with these motors and running on 6S each you may achieve almost 95mph with a set of Octura X447 and around 80-85mph with Octura X442.

regards,
Manuel

[RacinJasin]

Linky for the motors?

[KillerDave]

Linky for the motors?

Here you go....
http://www.tppower.com/sort.asp?class_id=4&news=62

[KillerDave]

Well,....
I've not done so much this week as I'm still waiting the motors but I did get some parts come....
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0361.jpg
And I've started to make motor mounts...
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0350.jpg
And a servo tray...
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0363.jpg
AND, made a start on the water pick ups....
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0357-1.jpg
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0359.jpg

It just dawned on me that I'm not finishing anything so today I will concentrate on the pickups and servo tray....
I know it's not much but I have lots to do elsewhere.... :-/
As ever, please do have a say so I know if I'm doing good or not.....

[Tomcandersen]

Nice work.!! Where did you get front motor mounts??

[KillerDave]

Nice work.!! Where did you get front motor mounts??

MHZ, here's the link....
http://www.mhz-powerboats.com/category-13/category-49/Motor-Mount---Support---40mm.html
Oh, and thank you! :-)

[KillerDave]

Well, What did I say about slow going???
What with work and doing family stuff and the store being closed, I didn't get much done...
I did get the servo box/tray finished though.
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0369.jpg
I also found that my "3/16" prop tubes are 7.1mm OD and the parts I got from MHZ are for 7mm tube.... 7mm tube and liner on order now...

[lavigna]

Looking real nice. Keep up the good work.

[KillerDave]

Ok chaps, I have a question....
If you have a look up there ^^^ to post number 41, you will see I have some support bearings and flex savers....
Here's the problem... The "support bearing" is sized at 5mm but the 3/16" flex is 4.75mm so it's not so supported is it.... The saver is spot on though??? Any ideas???

[nata2run]

Ok chaps, I have a question....
If you have a look up there ^^^ to post number 41, you will see I have some support bearings and flex savers....
Here's the problem... The "support bearing" is sized at 5mm but the 3/16" flex is 4.75mm so it's not so supported is it.... The saver is spot on though??? Any ideas???

Yep not worth using :) lol .... rather invest in the MBP collets and you'll never loose a flex again "kinda" but they are awesome!! and easy to get cables out from every run. I dont think the bearing is ment to be tight around the flex anyway, mine never was.

[KillerDave]

To be honest, I've never lost a flex but then, this will be the fastest boat I have.
I did get an email from MHZ and they say the bearing should be loose... Why have the bearing there then???

[ManuelW]

The sense of the bearing is in combination with the flex shaft security ring. Imagine there is no bearing and you need the flex shaft security. It might spin still around 30.000rpm and then imagine the friction between the stuffing tube and the flex shaft ring! In that emergency case all the load gets on the inner ring and it can also spin free. Therefore the security ring should also have a little offset with the right diameter that fits to the bearing.

regards,
Manuel

[KillerDave]

I think I understand Manuel...
Do you mean that the security ring should fit the bearing inner race?
I have been looking at making a shim to take up the space between the flex and the bearing and I have made a VERY thin tube spacer and it looks like it would work...
Would that be a bad thing?

[KillerDave]

THE MOTORS HAVE LANDED!!!! Oops! Sorry for shouting but it feels like I've been waiting so long for them!!!
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0427.jpg
They are TP Power 5040 2200kv Pro Competition spec' I don't know what they do to make them "Pro Comp" but I have read they run very cool....
So now I can move on a little! I do have a very busy weekend this week and I might be able to get some done if I'm lucky????

[KillerDave]

I can't believe my luck! I get the motors and have just been told I need to go away with work!!! Aghhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!
Anyway, I have made a small start moving forward...
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0429.jpg
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0432.jpg
And I'm afraid that's it for a while as I am off to Spain at the end of the week Germany 3 weeks later and Japan in 8 weeks!!! Joy!! Jet lag time for me.... I wonder if I can take the boat with me???

[Chrisg81983]

I have ran many 2200 kv leos on 6s without a single problem. Thats if the rest of the rig is set up correctly. Generaly mostc people toast them due to the wrong prop/props at those rpm's. Second what size brass and flex are you using because my brass for 3/16 fit perfect into the single nut drives. I actually had to bore them up to 10mm to fit the correct brass for 5mm flex. I didn't feel comfortable with 3/16 switching to the 5mm was the best thing I did for my 115

[KillerDave]

I have ran many 2200 kv leos on 6s without a single problem. Thats if the rest of the rig is set up correctly. Generaly mostc people toast them due to the wrong prop/props at those rpm's. Second what size brass and flex are you using because my brass for 3/16 fit perfect into the single nut drives. I actually had to bore them up to 10mm to fit the correct brass for 5mm flex. I didn't feel comfortable with 3/16 switching to the 5mm was the best thing I did for my 115

Hi folks!

So, I'm done with Spain but at the weekends, I have spent time with my family so no work done on the boat....
After Easter, I am off to Germany and my trip to Japan is delayed... So after Germany, I will do some more but family time is a must!!!
Chris, I have swapped over to TP's now at 2200kv, I think I will start with Octura X440 props on 5 or 6s... What do you think??? Also, I will be taking it easy on the ESC's timing and not just run but also test run and see how things go......
As far as the flex and tube go... I have Octura 3/16 flex and the tubes are Teflon lined 6mm ID 7mmOD brass tube.
I have centred them into the drives with a very thin bushings I made and it looks all lined up great! :-)
BTW, I got the tube and lining from MHZ in Germany....
http://www.mhz-powerboats.com/category-11/category-25/Brass-Teflon-Tube-3-16---4-75mm-.html
How did you get the 5mm flex into the stub shafts?

[ManuelW]

You have to use a lathe and drill the stub shafts to a bigger bore, something around 4.9mm would be fine. But for normal applications the 3/16" flex shafts work fine when aligned well. Only in highest performance applications they fail from time to time.

regards,
Manuel

[KillerDave]

You have to use a lathe and drill the stub shafts to a bigger bore, something around 4.9mm would be fine. But for normal applications the 3/16" flex shafts work fine when aligned well. Only in highest performance applications they fail from time to time.

regards,
Manuel

This is why I made the small bushing, to align well. When I get a chance, I will post more pictures and you should see that everything will line up as perfect as I can get it.... I am taking a short holiday with my wife and daughter over easter and I'm home next week so I should be able to spend some time on it then....

Thank you for the input.... :-y

[iridebikes247]

Don't make a shim spacer for the flex shaft.

http://www.mhzusa.com/Flexshaft-Saver-and-Support-Bearing-m-2256.htm?categoryId=-1

There is your explanation for why it is the way it is. I run one as does Bruiser77 on here, they work very well. I'm not so sure its a needed part but it looks cool comes with a flex saver and allows you to oil the flex easily. Running an oiler is great.

[KillerDave]

It still doesn't explain why there is a gap???
IMO, If the is a vibration in the flex, you would do your motor a favour by using the bearing to stop it.
On top of that, having the extra mass of the collar would exagerate the forces....
I am at the moment thinking of not using it.. Not sure???

[nata2run]

There is good and bad with those units. The good "all in my own opinion" is that if the collet lets go you won't loose the whole drive. When I ran the MHZ 114 the first time I lost the cable, shaft and prop all in the first 5min. LOL man was I angry!!!

The bad I guess would be that you are spinning that little collar/clamp, and it can run uneven coursing some vibration throughout the whole drive. I don't think it's a good idea to run this past 38k rpm. One of the clamps came lose one day! I can just imagine if it flew off and shot into the electronics. (That would have worked nice with my luck)

Both my HPR and MHZ don't use it for the simple Fact that I trust the MBP collets and they clamp really well. Also my cable runs perfectly in the center of the Teflon liner, so no grinding and little wear. If you decide to use them place the collar as close to the motor collet as you can to avoid too much vibration.

[iridebikes247]

I think its cool and its worked for me if you have doubts then I wouldn't use it. Many high end builds have been completed and run well without this item. I suppose you could make a shim but it will probably make it more difficult to remove the flex when you want to. If something works I don't re engineer it as new problems may surface down the road. If installed you can still use the grease fitting definitely tricks out the build a bit and having a flex loaded with grease quiets everything down a lot

[KillerDave]

A quick update on my progress, as slow as it may be...
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0450.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_0450.jpg.html)

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0452.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_0452.jpg.html)

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0453.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_0453.jpg.html)

So, the motors are in... Kinda... But I still need to fix the front mounts in and complete the drives but hey, time is short at the moment...

[KillerDave]

Hi folks,

Well... As they say, Sometimes life just gets in the way!
I've not made any real progress with my build but I intend to get it done soon!

I have finalised a design for the paint, I was going to go all out custom paint scheme but decided that I would never be happy with it so now, I'm going for a much more scale look similar to the Fendi Racing boat but keeping with my Animal clothing logos....

I do have one question though...

Can anyone advise me on filling the join line that runs round the perimeter where the top and bottom halves join???

Wondering if I should carve out the line?? And fill it with body filler or gelcote???
Thanks in advance....

[KillerDave]

Hi,

Me again...

So, I know things are slow in my camp but there are many jobs and I'm afraid my hobbies come way down the list!!!

Anyway....

I'm still waiting for ESC's and a few other bits but I've done a little....
Both drive lines are in....
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_1219.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_1219.jpg.html)
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_1218.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_1218.jpg.html)

And the first set of batteries are here...

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_1222.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_1222.jpg.html)

Also, I had a go at sketching an idea for the paint...

Let me know what you think???

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_1230.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_1230.jpg.html)

It's a twist on a real boat I love but I wanted to make it symmetrical and go with the Animal theme...

[KillerDave]

BTW, I know I'm no artist so take it easy on me!!! ;-)

[KillerDave]

Hi friends!

I have a pre-charger from MHZ and I was wondering if you guys/girls have had any problems with it???

I'm sure I've connected it up right but the light stays on (in translation, I think it needs to go out?)
And, the board gets quite warm... I left it for 10 minutes and decided to give the main +VE cable a go and yep, still got a massive arc from it!!!

I'll post pictures later but for now...
Does anybody know???

[KillerDave]

Hi friends!

I have a pre-charger from MHZ and I was wondering if you guys/girls have had any problems with it???

I'm sure I've connected it up right but the light stays on (in translation, I think it needs to go out?)
And, the board gets quite warm... I left it for 10 minutes and decided to give the main +VE cable a go and yep, still got a massive arc from it!!!

I'll post pictures later but for now...
Does anybody know???

Ok, it's sorted now! Recommend by MHZ to fit two in parallel... Done so and it charges straight up with no heat at all! All good...
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_1313.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_1313.jpg.html)
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_1314.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_1314.jpg.html)


On another note, I have modded the ESC's with additional caps and joined them together with brass tubes.

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_1301.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_1301.jpg.html)
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_1302.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_1302.jpg.html)
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_1303.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_1303.jpg.html)

Just gotta finish mounting things and make the LiPo mounts....

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_1310.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_1310.jpg.html)

Still feels like so much to do..... :-/

[srislash]

So those are spark arrester then? What voltage are they good to?

BTW, she is looking good. You managed to get a good clean look with the SK's. :thumbup1:

[CornelP]

Just make sure you run the water to the ESC first, then to the motor...

[KillerDave]

So those are spark arrester then? What voltage are they good to?

BTW, she is looking good. You managed to get a good clean look with the SK's. :thumbup1:

Kind of, they pre-charge the caps before you connect the main + lead... Not sure on the voltage, Here's all to info I have, http://www.mhz-powerboats.com/ESC/Supplies-56/Anti-Flash-for-ESC.html

Thanks though, just wish I could spend more time on it....

[KillerDave]

Just make sure you run the water to the ESC first, then to the motor...

Thanks for the tip, I did wonder about that....

[Chrisg81983]

I always cool the motors first for years now if your cooling systep is setup correctly you will benifit from this. The data logging can prove that the esc will be the same temp if it is cooled first or second while your motors will see a 20 degree difference. Second most esc can handle tempatures that will start to have a negative impact on motors. Finally by the look of it from your pics you will have a shorter cooling system if you do the motors first. There is a reason why all he german builders going over 100 do this but then again everyone has their own opinions you decide for yourself with your own testing and by the way your build looks great and should perform well good luck

[srislash]

Kind of, they pre-charge the caps before you connect the main + lead... Not sure on the voltage, Here's all to info I have, http://www.mhz-powerboats.com/ESC/Supplies-56/Anti-Flash-for-ESC.html

Thanks though, just wish I could spend more time on it....
I should look into the voltage then, I will be be building a 1050mm boat to run 12+S and these could be a nice addition.

[KillerDave]

I always cool the motors first for years now if your cooling systep is setup correctly you will benifit from this. The data logging can prove that the esc will be the same temp if it is cooled first or second while your motors will see a 20 degree difference. Second most esc can handle tempatures that will start to have a negative impact on motors. Finally by the look of it from your pics you will have a shorter cooling system if you do the motors first. There is a reason why all he german builders going over 100 do this but then again everyone has their own opinions you decide for yourself with your own testing and by the way your build looks great and should perform well good luck

Thanks Chris,
I do appreciate your input! It won't kill me to just try different configurations and see what works out best.
There are many, more experienced guys on here than I am and it's those I need to help me through this build!
This boat is my 'show boat' she's the one that will come out to wow the crowds at the race days....
Never will be a SAW boat and definitely not a racer! (nothing in my club this fast!) but for me, this is getting about the best I can.
Sure, I can spend 2/3 times as much on ESC'S and motors but why??? My lakes not so big and there are other users on the lake at the same time.

Plus, I just can't justify it... I will at some point get data logging for it but I have a big vacation soon that I have to pay for so that's taking my money for now... Snowboarding.... My other love!!! ;-)

I can't wait to get paint on this thing too!!! What do you think of my paint scheme??? Anyone???

[Yamadori]

I always cool the motors first for years now if your cooling systep is setup correctly you will benifit from this. The data logging can prove that the esc will be the same temp if it is cooled first or second while your motors will see a 20 degree difference. Second most esc can handle tempatures that will start to have a negative impact on motors. Finally by the look of it from your pics you will have a shorter cooling system if you do the motors first. There is a reason why all he german builders going over 100 do this but then again everyone has their own opinions you decide for yourself with your own testing and by the way your build looks great and should perform well good luck

Is it not the best way just to use two double water pickups and make a separate line for cooling motors and separate for esc's...that way both get fresh and coolest possible water...the expense is a few centimeters more of water tubing and a purchase of double water pickups? Not much...really
I will use that in my build.
Tell me, what do you think?

[KillerDave]

Is it not the best way just to use two double water pickups and make a separate line for cooling motors and separate for esc's...that way both get fresh and coolest possible water...the expense is a few centimeters more of water tubing and a purchase of double water pickups? Not much...really
I will use that in my build.
Tell me, what do you think?
I did actually buy two "twin" water pick-ups but there is just no room to fit them!
The outboard pick-ups would come out where the prop tubes are....

[Chrisg81983]

Thanks Chris,
I do appreciate your input! It won't kill me to just try different configurations and see what works out best.
There are many, more experienced guys on here than I am and it's those I need to help me through this build!
This boat is my 'show boat' she's the one that will come out to wow the crowds at the race days....
Never will be a SAW boat and definitely not a racer! (nothing in my club this fast!) but for me, this is getting about the best I can.
Sure, I can spend 2/3 times as much on ESC'S and motors but why??? My lakes not so big and there are other users on the lake at the same time.

Plus, I just can't justify it... I will at some point get data logging for it but I have a big vacation soon that I have to pay for so that's taking my money for now... Snowboarding.... My other love!!! ;-)

I can't wait to get paint on this thing too!!! What do you think of my paint scheme??? Anyone???


Yeah man snowboarding is the way to go come winter. Thats where you will find me every weekend. Anyway you can achieve speeds that are fast enough with the setup you run. I am actually thinking of trying something similar out.

[Yamadori]

Dave,
And if you go just laterally from stuffing tubes with these...

107932

[vvviivvv]

hey dave, where abouts in the uk are you?

[KillerDave]

Hi there Chris,
I LOVE snowboarding and I dio it all year round. This weekend, I took part in a freestyle course! It was awesome but my legs are killing me now! Lol...
I am sure it's a good set-up and should achieve some good speed. I'd love the magic 100 but I would be happy with anything over 80...

Yamadori, I have that part and there is no way it would go in without moving the drive line outboard. This would not be ideal!
Plus the system I have is proven so I don't think I have any worries???
Thank you for the input though, I do appreciate it very much. :-)


hey dave, where abouts in the uk are you?

Hi vvviivvv,
I'm in Buckinghamsire. If I remember correctly, you're in the Lakes???

[Chrisg81983]

There is pretty much no way this can fit. The problem is that the drive pretty much is rite I line where the twinn pickup would need to be. That means the stuffing tube would go rite over top of the pickup. The easiest and most efficient way is to use a sstandard piece of k&s brass tubing. The space left for this tube is very minimal after drive is installed. It can be a real pain in the a$$ if only a few mm off from where it needs to be. These twin pickups work well in boats were you have a ton of space.

[KillerDave]

This is very true!
My last twin was a HOR32 (Head of the River) and that was unreal tight!!!
I thought that this being much bigger would be a breeze.... It is better but not much...
Well...
I don't think much is going to happen this side of Christmas with all the stuff going on and going on holiday...

So, happy Christmas to you all and i'll be back on it in the new year!

[KillerDave]

Hi folks!
I've not done anything on the HPR as yet, I've just had too much on my plate... :-/

Anyway, I've had some bad news.. The club I have been a member of since 1988 has folded... so for now, I have no water! this doesn't mean I am giving up on this build, far from it! I am going to start again soon and get paint on it too! (see my concept above) let me know what you think??? It helps to encourage me! :-)

There is so little that needs doing but I do have a question...

On the HPR prop shafts, I have fitted the drive dog up to the ledge on the shaft but when it's in the drive with the prop on, there is still a little shaft showing with no thread on it, so the prop is still loose. Do I cut the thread down further??? I know this seems obvious but I just need to know... :stupid:

[Mattwarner]

Where abouts in the uk are you?

[srislash]

On my (brand new) HPR stuff, there is a 4mm or so spacer on the shaft. Guess that is what it is for.

[Mattwarner]

Where abouts in the uk are you?

Sorry just seen the earlier post!

[Chrisg81983]

The nylon spacer goes behind drivedog its sits between that and the flanged bearing in the drive. To take up that extra play you can use a metric lock washer to sit between the locknut and prop. This should be thick enough for what you need, and smaller than the hub of prop. This is what I need to do on all my hpr's.

[nata2run]

Hmm, that's strange. On all mine there was plenty of thread, except on one of the MHZ's I added a washer between prop and lock nut. It worked fine, and still balanced.

[nata2run]

LOL Chris just answered

[srislash]

The nylon spacer goes behind drivedog its sits between that and the flanged bearing in the drive. To take up that extra play you can use a metric lock washer to sit between the locknut and prop. This should be thick enough for what you need, and smaller than the hub of prop. This is what I need to do on all my hpr's.

I have a aluminum sleeve like spacer with mine. As well as the usual nylon squish spacer.

[KillerDave]

Milton Keynes... You???

[KillerDave]

On my (brand new) HPR stuff, there is a 4mm or so spacer on the shaft. Guess that is what it is for.

No, I have fitted the thrust washer but there is still a gap.. I guess I should post a picture...

[Chrisg81983]

I know exactly what you are taking about. Kent and I explained what to do as we both encounter this problem. All the hpr and mhz boats that I have done worked out this way.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

[srislash]

Good knowledge for my future build. Thanks guys

[KillerDave]

I know exactly what you are taking about. Kent and I explained what to do as we both encounter this problem. All the hpr and mhz boats that I have done worked out this way.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

Sorry Chris, I'm not sure it's a single washer fix but I will try... If not, I'll take a pick and post it...

[KillerDave]

Ok, I had a look... 3 washers does it but I think I would rather just cut the thread down so it works as it should...
I think maybe the drives were designed with bigger props in mind???

[Chrisg81983]

What props are you running

[nata2run]

I'm wondering the same??? but it should take a 42mm with a washer no problem. Not sure about the thread thing, I think the drives are hardened S/S so might not be as easy? but I'm only guessing here. I used a 3/16 collar that has a grub screw (looks a bit like a flex saver and that worked perfect with no play it was about 1/4" tall and roughly as thick that the hub on the prop.

[nata2run]

Looked like this by the way....most hobby shops have them

111296

[srislash]

Ahh, feel like an idiot here. The spacer I spoke of is on my "clicks". Sorry Dave,Kent, Chris for sticking my butt in.

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/SRIslash/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps42a1a2c2.jpg (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/SRIslash/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps42a1a2c2.jpg.html)

I assume they have the same is sure with smaller props.

[KillerDave]

Hi guys... The props I'm starting with are Octura 442's...
Here's a view of it... You can see
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0089.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_0089.jpg.html)
I think I'll go for a spacer but to me, it seems like a bodge! :-/

BTW, I know I need to do the prop's! :-) Just another job on the list!!!

[Chrisg81983]

I cut b a piece of stainless down on my lathe that worked for 442's. Also i have turned down the hpr prop shafts a bunch of times. I also bored them to fit 5mm flex. I wouldn't attempt without the proper tools. Here's a funny story. I was at the lake one day and wanted to try smaller props from my usual prop realizing I left the little spacers home. I found a pen and cut the cap to fit with my knife. It worked fine for the time being, and I pulled just about 100mph. That day it was redneck racing.

[larryrose11]

subscribed

[KillerDave]

Hi guys,

Sorry this thread has slowed down so much... I am getting there with the battery trays fitted and I've made up some small 5mm long bushes to take up the gap on my props...

So now I'm getting REAL close to getting it in the water... I need to make some small adjustments to the LiPo sleds, dress the props, fit the receiver pack.........

Ummmm?????

I think that's about it???

One question...

If I'm running a seperate small LiPo pack for the receiver, Do I need to fit a BEC? To knock it down to 6V???

[Chrisg81983]

Sounds good do you have any pics of recent progress I am interested in seeing. For Rx power easiest way is to use a 2s life pack they are 6.6 volts Steve sells the little Hyperion ones that can plug rite in. With a 2s Lipo you will need to step voltage down if Rx is not able to take HV.

[KillerDave]

Sounds good do you have any pics of recent progress I am interested in seeing. For Rx power easiest way is to use a 2s life pack they are 6.6 volts Steve sells the little Hyperion ones that can plug rite in. With a 2s Lipo you will need to step voltage down if Rx is not able to take HV.

Thanks Chris, I alread have a 2s Lipo so I think I'll go with that for now...

I just have a few small jobs and she'll be in the water this weekend! :w00t: IF I get some time....

Having said that, I have 6 days off and the girls are away for two of them! If I can spend 1 day on it, it WILL be getting wet!

I'm terrified of flipping it too! I had better get my recovery boat ready!!! :Sinking:

[Chrisg81983]

Good luck with the mating Run hope you get some time to post some pictures and video. Just a few tips when you go out for the first time. Take it easy and learn the boat do not go out there and try to get your max speed. Set the boat up conservatively give it a nice cg and throw some negative in your drives. For props I would start with a 447 or even a 442 would be great. Once again good luck and if you have any other questions just ask.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[KillerDave]

Good luck with the mating Run hope you get some time to post some pictures and video. Just a few tips when you go out for the first time. Take it easy and learn the boat do not go out there and try to get your max speed. Set the boat up conservatively give it a nice cg and throw some negative in your drives. For props I would start with a 447 or even a 442 would be great. Once again good luck and if you have any other questions just ask.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Thanks again my friend :hug1:
The only other FE I have is a HOR32 that hits low 60's and first few times out with that I was shaking! Lol...

I will be tanking it easy for sure!!!

Just a question for you though... What is a "conservative" CoG??? One problem I know I'm gonna have is that I've built it a little too forward weighted...

I think I should do it but it'll be close... :-/

Anyway, Here are some pic's of where I am now...

You can see here the bush I turned up out of bronze.

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0340.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_0340.jpg.html)

I needed to make this because the thread on the shaft didn't quite get to the prop... BTW, This is a Octura X442...

And here is the internal layout.
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0342.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_0342.jpg.html)

All of the mounts, I made including motor front and rear mounts, Servo/receiver mount, ESC/electrics tray and LiPo mounts.
I do like making things where I can :thumbup1:

The LiPo alarms are just for show and very basic monitoring just for now... Longer term plan is a full twin eagletree system that will take up this space...

[twissted]

I like it!!!!
It looks like you need a little more gap for the prop and the stinger though.

[Chrisg81983]

Sending you a pm now

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[KillerDave]

Aghhhh! It's so close!!!

Ok... Breath...

So, today the girls are out and I thought I would spend some time on the boat...
Cooling system Completed.
LiPo trays - Completed.
Floated in the test tank (AKA... The bath!) :lol:

I was just checking the rotation of the props but I have found a problem....

when I power everything up and turn on the radio... pushed a little forward on the stick but only 1 motor turned....
I pushed further and at just over 1/2 stick, the second motor fired up....
I did have a look at the ESC settings on the program card but they are both the same.

Can anyone help with this???

I'm using TP motors on SeaKing 180A ESC's (modded CAP's) and Spektrum radio gear...
Please help???:Praying:

[ManuelW]

have you programmed the ESC's to your transmitter?

regards,
Manuel

[KillerDave]

have you programmed the ESC's to your transmitter?

regards,
Manuel

Hi Manuel,

Thanks for the reply. :doh: Just did it! I worked for a while but now it seems that I've killed the receiver!!! :unsure:

[Chrisg81983]

Are you running a separate Rx pack without removing the red off esc's

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[KillerDave]

Are you running a separate Rx pack without removing the red off esc's

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

No, I am running a separate pack but I have removed the red wires from the ESC's.
I've borrowed a receiver from a plane and it's all working now :)

All I have left is to sort out the props, grease the flexi's and have a good look round it all....

[Chrisg81983]

OK cool

[KillerDave]

Ok, so the boat is ready to go into the water (I think?) but the weather is against me...
I'm now hoping the weekend will be dry and calm enough for my wife, daughter and I to take the "HPR Animal" for her maiden run!?
I am so excited and once I have a few runs done, I will think more about painting it.... I do have a draft ^^^ and I'm sure I will do a fair job of it...

Anyway, back to looking forward to the maiden.... :olleyes:

[KillerDave]

Ok,
I'm getting bored waiting for the weekend so here's the final set-up.... for now...
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/DSC_0386.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/DSC_0386.jpg.html)
The LiPo monitirs should be replaced with EagleTree kit but I'm still thinking about it???
And I will get a Emcotec switch on the rear deck too....
COME ON WEEKEND!!!!

Lol... ^^^ that looks like I'm French! Lol... "monitirs" should be monitors!!!

[Chrisg81983]

So did you run her

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[KillerDave]

So did you run her

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Most annoyingly not... I was busier than I expected and what time I did have, it was raining...
It is ready to run but I also need sombody to film the maiden and maybe take some photo's....

The next chance I get will be this coming weekend... Maybe???

[KillerDave]

I got to the lake today for the maiden and I had a friend and his daughter for support! :-)
So, it went like this....
1, Turn on the TX,
2, Plug in the RX pack,
3, Plug in the main LiPo's for the motors....
4, Screw on the deck and tape it up...
I took it down to the waters edge, popped her in and gently pushed the throttle forward....
She smoothly moved away but right there I could see all was not as it should be....
after a few seconds, I could tell I had no drive from one side.....
Hoping I's not done something, I put her back on the stand and took off the deck...
EVERYTHING was in place????
I think one of the ESC's is fried???
How can that be if it fired up on the stand in my house last night???
Nothing smells, nothing is or was hot, nothing looks wrong at all???
I have waited for this for so long and I am now SO frustrated!!! :confused:

[Chrisg81983]

Sorry to hear that...what happens if you switch electronics around does it work the other motor.

[KillerDave]

Sorry to hear that...what happens if you switch electronics around does it work the other motor.

I tried that at the lake and yes, one ESC works and the other seems dead. :-(
I also swapped them on the receiver and no joy...

Definitely the ESC...
I'll pull it out when I've had my dinner....
... and update...
My friend videoed it and said "Now Dave, Nothing is going to go wrong!"
I would post it but it's not really worth it......

[Chrisg81983]

I would like to see the video

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[KillerDave]

I would like to see the video

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Lol...
Ok... Give me a second...

[KillerDave]

Ok, The video is up-loading to youtube but I have the slowest Broadband on the planet! (I must get that sorted!
In the mean time, I pulled the ESC's out and found the problem...

I don't know how it happened but the circuit board is damaged and it had a broken track... I'm glad it failed when it did...

Anyway, I've fixed it and she lives again! :-) VERY happy now! :thumbup:
I'll drop a link as soon as the video is done!

[KillerDave]

Here you go...


http://youtu.be/9z-JcuaLKRA

At least I found the fault and fixed it...
I don't think I can get out 'til Friday, maybe the weekend now...

[KillerDave]

Hey folks,

Well... Here in the UK, the weather is far less than stable.... this morning was beautiful but tonight it's rain/sun/rain, rain/sun....

Anyway, I couldn't take it any more so I got myseld and the boat to the lake... I was on my own, it was raining but I thought, if not now, I'll regret it...

OMG! I am ecstatic!!! I only went for a quick run and glad I did as my radio was getting wetter and wetter!!! :-/

I think she goes quite well... and I DID think this lake is big enough but NO! I'm not even sure if I got full throttle but... Man! she flies!!! :w00t: I will tell you one thing... I need a beer!!! I was shaking so much!!! Lol....

Anyway, I did have my GoPro mounted on the back of my radio and I'm sorting the video now... I'll post it asap...

[KillerDave]

... and here's the video...
Please excuse the rubbish video but I was on my own and I mounted my GoPro on the back of my radio.
I would've had at least one more shooting with a proper HD camera and maybe a DSLR too but they couldn't make it...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoX-c7t9iKI

Also, I would love some tip's on setting her up... :-)

[Chrisg81983]

Dave pm is being sent now

[KillerDave]

Hi FE fans!

Today, I am going to see if the weather will hold out (we are due some storms about now!) and if I can get to the lake, I will head out for another run....

I have made some changes to C/G and drive angle but I won't have a cameraman AGAIN! I will do my bets to get it on film....

I have a question...

I am going to the coast over the weekend for 4 days and was thinking of running the boat, What will I need to do to run in salt water???

[KillerDave]

Crap!

I spent my lunch time making a mount to fit my video camera onto my radio and did quite a decent job too! That's the good part...
I did go to the lake but not only did I shoot the most useless video but I also put the boat on its back! I spent the next hour retrieving it!

The crash was me taking my eye off the driving and tried to avoid a large weed field and turned at too high a speed! Grrr!

When I did get it back, it had quite alot of water in it.... Not sure how it got in??? maybe the areal???

On a slightly better note, she was further out of the water! :-)

[KillerDave]

Ok, I went to the lake on my own (something I don't like doing as I have no support or any way of recovering a dead boat)
The weather was ok and not many birds to shoo off...
There are a lot of weeds in there though!
Anyway, I only ran for a short while before a roll told me it was time to go home!
After the "short" run, I measured the temps and nothing was over 30C even though she did pick up a little weed on the rudder and props....
A rubbish video to follow....

[KillerDave]

Here's the video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEqt3VWLNk4&feature=youtu.be

I know this was a very short run but nothing inside was hotter than 30C, I think I can start pushing it a little...???

[KillerDave]

Nooooooo........

Ok, Today could not have been set better for a great run....
But no... something has got to go wrong... and it did!!!

One of my pack died!!! just setting up for a run gave it a blip on the throttle and there was a "pop" from inside!

Fearing the worse, I ripped off the tape, spunn the screws out and through open the cover (oh the drama!)

No smoke, no fire... NO POWER ON ONE SIDE!!!!

So, I took the battery out and went home...

Looking at the battery, I could smell a strange burnt smell... I decided to have a look, under the cover on the cable end, where all of the wires are, I quickly found a tab between 2 cells is broken.

I tried to solder it back together but it wont take..???

Any advice???

Or, Am I looking at a new pack??? I've only used this pack a few times.... :mad:

[srislash]

If it is the aluminum tab that won't take the solder it is pooched. That cell anyway. It is VERY special stuff they use for that particular weld/solder.

[KillerDave]

If it is the aluminum tab that won't take the solder it is pooched. That cell anyway. It is VERY special stuff they use for that particular weld/solder.

The balance wires are soldered to it and that mixed well with my solder but I tried to "push" it to the other tab but it wouldn't take! :-(

[KillerDave]

I'm thinking about Dinogy? but I'll have to get the boss in on it....

[keithbradley]

Dave:

I'm running Revolectrix HV lipos right now and getting some incredible results. Results in regards to longevity are to be determined though, since they're so new.
I ran Dinogy last year and they were solid performers as well.

These two manufacturers seem to be at the top of the pile in terms of performance. HK A-spec 65c (the first style, not the G2) are quite robust as well but they don't last very long and their quality control is far below the other two brands.

[keithbradley]

Dave one other thing...

I'm not familiar with the exact tabs you were trying to solder, but even if you were able to "bridge" the gap with solder, it would melt with any significant current. Typically things like that melt as a symptom of another malfunction in my experience, and continue to do it again and again.
If you wanted to solder something with a gap, you need a solid material also (wire, trace, etc) that you can solder on...something that can provide somewhat of a backbone. It will withstand a lot more than solder alone.

[KillerDave]

Ok guys...
As much as I appreciate your help and advice... and I really do.....

Can we get off this please???

Getting back on track... :focus:

Can we build a list of batteries that are known to be good for my set up? I thought Turnigy was good and they probably are but something went wrong???

@ Kieth, the tabs are what connects each cell to the next + / -
They must be made of some magic metal as they just wont take solder!
They look like they are induction welded together??? having said that, they do have the balance wires soldered on???

Thanks for the tip on the batteries you have... I'll check them out...

@ iridebikes247, Thanks for the data image, I should be receiving 2 sets of eLogger V4 kits soon! This is to be used as a tool so I can tune the boat to give me what it can without destroying itself!

I have had one boat sitting 40' from me in flames because I didn't know what I was doing and I used the cheapest nastiest batteries out there...

LiPo fires are not fun and scare the life out of me.. :flame42: :flashfire::flame42::sinking-guy:

To all of the guys that have said good things about my build, come on... it's not rocket science to put one together, I am relying on you guys to help me put it together right... so, THANK YOU...

Kieth, Your boats are works of art!
Chris, You're a dude and I could chat with you all day!
Manuel, never fails to build awesomness! and his 3 day build convinced me to do it!

And Twissted... we have talked on hear befor... remeber my HOR 32??? Fire bomb! Lol... :flashfire:

[KillerDave]

I had a look at the batteries Keith suggested but what is a split pack???

http://www.store.revolectrix.com/Products/DIAMOND-Label-60C-LiPO-batteries-XH-equpped/Revolectrix-5000mAh-6S-Lipo-Diamond-Label-GP-KO-JST-XH-Balance-Connector
A 300 amp pack looks awesome to me if it lives a long and healthy life???

[KillerDave]

Here's another option...

http://radiocontrolledshop.ie/6s-222volts-li-po-battery-lithium-polymer-rc-batteries/3974-giant-power-dinogy-6s-5100mah-65c-nano-tech-lipo-battery-lc-6s5100h.html

And they are quite local to me! :banana:

What's the opinion???

The down side is... That's £200 of batteries and I don't have that sitting in my back pocket right now... :ThumbsDown01:

[srislash]

Dave, the Dynogy's will be the best proven for the buck. I have had good luck with mine as well. My cheapies have proven not to like the winter long storage and I suggest cycling any battery a couple times through winter or extended non use periods.
That being said, 200 pounds is a chunk of change for sure. Maybe talk to Mark and get them direct from him. Perhaps that would help on price.

[KillerDave]

Dave, the Dynogy's will be the best proven for the buck. I have had good luck with mine as well. My cheapies have proven not to like the winter long storage and I suggest cycling any battery a couple times through winter or extended non use periods.
That being said, 200 pounds is a chunk of change for sure. Maybe talk to Mark and get them direct from him. Perhaps that would help on price.

Thanks srislash!
I have looked on the Dinogy site and they price at $320 = £190, unless he offers a great discount and free shipping, it would kill the deal, I would also have to pay import duty... and that's a killer!

£200 is from Ireland and includes shipping... being close, also means it wont take a month or more to get them??? Just my pennies getting in the way now...
Lol....

[srislash]

Yup, I was just thinking about possible shipping savings, but... You are best there then. I know it is $50 US for my shipping and I am just up the coast from Mark, across border too mind you.

[twissted]

I'm glad to see everyone trying to help. That was all I was doing! Could Keith show the lipos in action as I did? I would like to see them also Thanks! I like the SMC lipos and will use them as long as they do there job. If not then I would want to look into these lipos. From what I have read SMC is still the best lipos out. Also I'm using them with suggsess.

[twissted]

http://promatchracing.com/

http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/batteries/6s-lipo.html

[Doug Smock]

Could Keith show the lipos in action as I did? I would like to see them also Thanks!

He can if he wishes, and we forum dedicated to that.

"Show Off Your Rc Boat - Videos"

[keithbradley]

I had a look at the batteries Keith suggested but what is a split pack???

http://www.store.revolectrix.com/Products/DIAMOND-Label-60C-LiPO-batteries-XH-equpped/Revolectrix-5000mAh-6S-Lipo-Diamond-Label-GP-KO-JST-XH-Balance-Connector
A 300 amp pack looks awesome to me if it lives a long and healthy life???

"Split pack" there would be short leads connected together outside the shrink. In the case of a 6s lipo, it would be like (2) 3s packs shrinked together, series via this connection to make 6s.
As long as the manufacturer matches all six cells, it's fine and makes little difference. As a matter of fact, my Q cat ran one 6s pack that was "split" and another that wasn't...I noticed no difference in running and logging.
There have been times when manufacturers just wrap two 3s packs together that may not be matched. I recall hyperion split packs being a bit undesirable for this matter. If the cells aren't matched, it does create higher potential for a problem. For this reason I prefer not to purchase split packs when possible, but in the case of my Revo lipos I had faith that they would be properly matched.

[KillerDave]

"Split pack" ...

Thanks Keith, I get it now, Not sure why they wouldn't just build 6s packs??? I doesn't even make sence for the company as it would be more labour involved??? Oh well... It is, what it is.... :confused1:

[Chrisg81983]

Thanks Keith, I get it now, Not sure why they wouldn't just build 6s packs??? I doesn't even make sence for the company as it would be more labour involved??? Oh well... It is, what it is.... :confused1:


Hey Dave sometimes companies need to do this to meet shipping regulations. There can only be so much mah and "C" rating shipped.

[Rocstar]

Thanks Keith, I get it now, Not sure why they wouldn't just build 6s packs??? I doesn't even make sence for the company as it would be more labour involved??? Oh well... It is, what it is.... :confused1:
Has to do with international shipping regulations and max pack capacity. However I have 2 Giant Power Lipos here that are 6s 6000mAh that are not split....who knows.

[Fella1340]

...

[Fella1340]

I have been looking at a lot of different lipos as I have a lot to purchase. This is is the first instance where the 6s has been a split pack. I like the lipos, pricing is fair and am considering them but the split pack has me thrown. I think I am going to go with them but there must be a better explanation than shipping restrictions if the other guys are getting away with it?

[Chrisg81983]

I have been looking at a lot of different lipos as I have a lot to purchase. This is is the first instance where the 6s has been a split pack. I like the lipos, pricing is fair and am considering them but the split pack has me thrown. I think I am going to go with them but there must be a better explanation than shipping restrictions if the other guys are getting away with it?

You have a pm explaining it.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[jcald2000]

Dinogys are manufactured by Giant Power. Buy the local ones.

[Chrisg81983]

Dinogys are manufactured by Giant Power. Buy the local ones.

I've actually seen 4 different labels on the same pack. I have sometimes even pulled off the Dinogy sticker and then found a nother label underneath that has a different name on it

[Fella1340]

Thanks for the explanation Chris, very much appreciated!

[Chrisg81983]

Thanks for the explanation Chris, very much appreciated!

No problem buddy

[iridebikes247]

I too have pulled stickers off of dinogy packs to find giant power stickers or something like that.

[KillerDave]

Here's another thing to throw in there...
The connection between the two 3s packs looks quite small....

Would this not add to the total internal resistance???

[keithbradley]

Here's another thing to throw in there...
The connection between the two 3s packs looks quite small....

Would this not add to the total internal resistance???

The wires are short enough that it's inconsequential. There is a bullet connector there, but it's really just to meet shipping regulations. You could solder the bullet connector if you wanted and pretend it was never there.

[MarkF]

I'm pretty sure I explained to you guys over email or phone call why the stickers are there. Giant power doesn't make dinogy and you will never find a giant power sticker under a dinogy label and vice versa. Those labels have nothing to do with any brand on the market today.

Mark

[KillerDave]

Hey guys...

I've been away with work for a while and when I have been home, I've either been working on my daughters boat or doing house/garden stuff and of course, spending actual time with my family....

On the plus side, I did manage to fix the Turnigy LiPo! :rockon2: Not sure if the fix is good as I've not run it yet???
I am going to get some new Dinogy packs but right now, I don't have much time to get to the water so I'm gonna hold off for a while....

I'm about to go on vacation with the girls and I would take my HPR but it's all seawater and I'm not sure what it'll do to it???

Any thoughts on that???

Anyway, I need to get back to painting my daughters boat!

Bye for now....

[TiTu]

I'm about to go on vacation with the girls and I would take my HPR but it's all seawater and I'm not sure what it'll do to it???

Any thoughts on that???



I've had no problems yet running my mystic in the sea. After the run I've flushed the cooling lines including water jackets with fresh water using a syringe. In addition, I've wiped old grease from the flexes and regreased them immediately after the run and they are like new, no rust or anything on them.

Just try to keep your boat dry from inside, salt water and electronics aren't the best friends you know. :laugh:

There might be more to this, and I hope more experienced would chime in as 4 times out of 5 it's sea where I run my cat and I'd love to know more how to avoid potential damage from salt water.

[KillerDave]

Thanks Titu!

I have decided not to take the HPR... I'm not going to get much time to get on the water anyway... Oh well...

I will hit it when I get back....

On another positive note, I have found another lake with much more open water so after a little testing, I'me going to get myself over there to have some fun!

[KillerDave]

Hi folks!

I have decided to throw some paint on this thing!

This is something that scares the crap out of me as it can either make or brake a boat...???

Here is my design just sketched over a line drawing.... I'm not sure I'll keep the chequred flag or the flames???

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/833f9e16-60dd-4877-90fe-456464fe4cf4.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/833f9e16-60dd-4877-90fe-456464fe4cf4.jpg.html)

Anyway,

Can anyone advise me on getting rid of the seam please???

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/HPR/DSC_0823.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/HPR/DSC_0823.jpg.html)
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/HPR/DSC_0822.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/HPR/DSC_0822.jpg.html)
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/KillerDave/Boats/HPR/DSC_0821.jpg (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/KillerDave/media/Boats/HPR/DSC_0821.jpg.html)

Mant thanks....

[flraptor07]

That paint design looks awsome! As for the seam, on my Cheetah I sanded it with 180 to start then I used 3M glazing/spot putty part# 05096 then worked it down with 220 grit (you'll probably need to do a couple layers) then primed it and prepped for paint as normal.

[Fella1340]

I know lots of guys use the 3m glazing putty and report good results but it's polyester based and not really meant for epoxy fiberglass filling and repairs. I'll probably get roasted for saying that but an epoxy based product should be used to fill epoxy fiberglass/carbon fiber products. Regular layup resin can be used with microballons or milled fiberglass to achieve desired consistency. Applying and sanding it is a lot more work but it won't shrink and adhesion will be much better.
I have a dozens of product available to me that are meant for professional auto body repair (my father hand builds hot rods/old cars). They would make the job a snap but problems down the road are very likely and there just not the proper fillers for the job. There is epoxy based marine putty available if you search around but I haven't used any of them personally.

[flraptor07]

I was just looking at the MSDS sheet and the 3M green 05096 spot putty is Acrylic based. I had to look to be sure and BTW I Co-own a Resto/Street Rod shop.

[Fella1340]

Ok, so it's acrylic based. One of the things I learned from experience is that one part putty, whatever it is should be avoided unless absolutely necessary. And then only to fill fine pin holes or the smallest scratch. Be it polyester, acrylic or whatever if it's a one part putty it will continue to dry and shrink over time. That's just the way it works. Filling the gap Separating the upper and lower hull and smoothing it out is just beyond the boundaries the stuff is good for. Most high end paint shops won't use it at all.
I asked my resident expert about it and he had a few choice words about the 3m green in particular, seems it's been around for some time and my father has seen many nice paint jobs ruined by the 3m green and other one part putty/glazes. Two part putty is really the only way to go if your looking for something that will last. Most of these don't apply to epoxy resin boats any more than the one part stuff does.
A very safe bet for lasting results is to use epoxy resins and thicken to a putty. Yes it takes awhile to cure and is more difficult to sand but 5 years from now it will still look as good as the day it was done. A friend of mine with many years experience using epoxy resins and fiberglass recommended Marinetex two part epoxy putty but also said that if you have epoxy resin already that thickening it will achieve the results but is a little more difficult to sand down. The consensus though from listening and learning from those that have been at this stuff a lifetime is the one part putty/glazes have very little to no use in the body shop these days.
I have the same type of work coming up and will be doing the paint myself. I haven't settled on a particular product yet but I know what I will be avoiding. There's just to many hours work involved to pick a product illsuited to the task even though it would cut work time way down. This is just my opinion and point of view and I'm sure a lot of people have used the one part stuff with great sucess. I just think it's the wrong stuff for the job at hand here.

[flraptor07]

I'll agree, on a $10,000.00 custom auto paint job I wouldn't use it either. But on a RC boat that's gonna get scuffed up racing it, it's good enough and you'll probably repaint it long before you notice any shrinkage problems.

[Fella1340]

I was just offering advice as to how I would look at it, when it comes to body work there's a thousand different ways to get from A-B let alone A-Z! I remember being told 25 or so years ago when messing around with fullsize fast boats that when it comes to fiberglass if it's epoxy resin to start or an epoxy resin repair that the only thing that goes over epoxy is epoxy. I was teenager and learned the lesson the hard way more than once! I have no doubt that there are hundreds of rc boats out there that have paint jobs looking good years later using one part putty.
Your right about the price, if your laying down big dollar paint then use the best that there is, if it's just a basher or will get bashed up racing then the putty would be nice and easy. I actually like the stuff because it's so easy to use and own it myself.

[KillerDave]

Thanks for the advice, I will do some searching...
It looks like I'm in for hrs of sanding and filling! :-/
I actually do have a heap of resin and micro ballons so I think that's the way I'll go...???
So, as it is right now, some of the seam is outside of the surface...

Should I dig this out to give the filler somewhere to sit??? or just sand it down and fill from there?

To me, this is as much a show boat as a bloody fast toy! ;-) I'm lucky that I am the only one at our club with anything this fast! so, when I turn up at the lake, they say... "wait for everyone to be off the water before you put that thing in!" Lol... I think they're scared! so... There's not much chance of it getting bashed up!

I am getting airbrush masks made as we speak so, with any luck, I might get paint on it soon!

It'll probably be out of the water most of the winter anyway, we have just got a cold snap and the lake has ice in it.... if it keeps going, that's it.... no boating! 'til Feb/March....

[Fella1340]

Dave, i did write a reply in detail but it didn't post and got deleted:( I would start with resin and microballons and fill the seam. What do you mean by the seam is sticking out? A photo would be great. My experience runs with fiberglass and metal so I hope some guys jump in that have been down this road and know the pitfalls to look out for.

The main difference will be the difficulty sanding down the Cf/k and resin each side/around it. The resin will sand much faster than the Cf/k and you can quickly find yourself worse off than when you started if your not carefull. I would carefully check the boat to locate any real high or low spots and mark them so you start giving yourself a "road map". This boat being the king of King's it should be very straight. I use a piece of 1/8"x3/4" oak and use the edge to check straight runs and the flat for curves. It's about 30" long and was checked on the mill bed to ensure true. I have smaller pieces for smaller areas.(a yard stick may ?work here, small flexible steel rulers as well) I am just gathering things as the rest of my build comes together. The other thing that has proven itself and I consider it a must now is a 3m flexible rubber sanding block. It's about 3"x5" and is perfect for this type of
work where everything is a curve. I wanted to post a picture of it but can't find it anywhere, typical! (google search brings it up)You want to minimize using sandpaper and your finger tips for sanding as much as possible.
I was out today and bought the west systems 410 micro light fairing filler to use on my boat, seam came finished with this hull:) Prep work for a proper bonding surface is everything here, putting the resin putty in the seam is the quickest part of the job.before you start it may be a good idea to true the hull seam as much as possible. Using a sanding block that easily follows the curve is very important.

Purchasing the 3m sanding block or something similar will save a lot of time and ease frustration significantly. You may even have something around that will work. Check and mark the hulls high and low spots and mark where either the top needs sanding to meet the bottom or the other way around. Get it as good as you can. Prep seam and fill it. You'll be happy you did the other work before adding resin to the seam! Sand the seam down and keep checking the hull, marking highs and lows till your happy.

You may end up wanting the 410 to really be able to feather the edges out. It's was $16.50 Canadian. The sanding block was less than that, it was bought quite awhile ago. I would feel much better if others were offering different methods or things to he aware of. You want it to be perfect, it's a HPR afterall!
Good luck, it may be a good idea to post a new thread asking for this specific type of help. Guys like Randy at BBY can do this stuff in there sleep and have the Cf/k experience that is really needed here. The advice could save you 10hrs sanding and net you an excellent job. I think it would be worthwhile to do. Good luck!

[jcald2000]

Shoebox seam?

[Fella1340]

The seam is flush

[KillerDave]

Thanks Fella!

I may have been a little over critical of "sticking out"...

Really looking closely, there are very few areas that are outside the surface. those points that are outside, I can rub down and fill...

I will start another thread to get a wider response.

Thanks for your help...