56" Cat. My First Boat build!

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/56sss-1.jpg
Products
1 x 8mm - 1/4" stainless steel collet for dual motor setup US $22.00
2 x SSS 5694 1200kv 6 pole brushless motor with water cool US $210.00
2 x 1/4" flexible cable with stub shaft 400mm long US $28.00
1 x Vertical servo mount Version 2 US $10.00
1 x Aluminum rudder (150mm) US $50.00
1 x Stainless steel M5 x 25mm hex socket screw x 10 unit US $1.40
1 x Stainless steel M4 x 18mm hex socket screw x 10 unit US $0.99
1 x Stainless steel M5 5mm nylon lock nut x 10 unit US $0.28
2 x Waterproof push rod rubber seal bellow with aluminum fitting US $6.00
1 x Aluminum stinger 1/4" shaft for catamaran US $120.00
2 x Aluminum cowl locks version 3 US $22.00
2 x Aluminum water pickup flush type dual US $11.00
2 x M5 brass water nipple US $2.00
1 x Water outlet large US $2.30
1 x Teflon tube 4mm 4m long US $10.00
2 x 6.35mm (.25 or 1/4") drive dog stainless steel US $6.40
Shopping list for build

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona006.jpg
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona003.jpg
This is a shot of the 42" cat next to the 56" cat.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona040.jpg
Started making motor mounts with 4mm thick graphite
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona033.jpg
lots of repairs, while doing the build. This is why you buy the hull in a store so that you get a good hull. This one is one that needs a ton of repairs!
Making the hull stronger with webbing.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona052.jpg The center brace in the nose is 1/4 playwood that has fiberglass matt on both sides it was added after I shaped the plywood and I left 1'' matt on the edges to make a strong bond to the hull.

[twissted]

Opps It got posted twice.

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona054.jpg
Boat load of parts!

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona041-1.jpg
roughed in the motor mounts.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona059.jpg
This is the stearing servo mount. All parts are being bonded to hull with 30 min. epoxy.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona061.jpg
Stingers use the 1/4" shafts. I will need to have the ends milled down to fit the props.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona072.jpg
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona081.jpg
Motors are mounted!
getting ready to bend the 11/32 tubing. The wire around the tubing is to keep the tubing from crushing while bending.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona084.jpg

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/T2eC16VHJF0E9nmFRoweBQOi2Wypg60_58.jpg
S/S PROP SHOP 5517/3 C/R set of castings that I found on ebay.

[TristanJones]

Awesome build!! Hope this works out well for you. I watch with keen interest. :Peace_Sign:

[Cooper]

Going pretty good! Get the batteries in there with all hardware now so you have a general idea of center of gravity. I'm not positive where this hull likes to be but a general spot is 30% from the back foreward from the ride pads. And keep in mind that where you place the batteries you might want to move front or back depending on prop, water conditions, ect. In my opinion once you have the stuffing tubes in the hard part is over!

[Doug Smock]

Looking good Jack!

[Cooper]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona054.jpg
Boat load of parts!

Lol , original :) (boat load of parts!!!)

[MrUnlimited]

Where did you buy the Flier esc and what amp are they rated?

[twissted]

thx. Haves lots to do still. The cables that came with the rudder is got me wondering how they install. I also was wondering if the stuffing tube goes all the way in the stingers untill it stops. If this is the case then it will stick out about 3.5 inches past the holes I drilled. I seems to me that it would other that making stinger ajustments harder. but once I got it right it would make the cable flex less and also make the stingers stonger. Do I use silicone to seal the hardware from leaking inside? Also The 1/4" cables need to be turned down to fit the 3/16 prop holes. I with that I didn't have to do that. I hope the motors don't snap the shafts. Also because the hull was so bad. That lots of the gel coat is missing. I need to fix this. Do I add epoxy to the inside to make up for what was sanded off? I have more webing that will add strength to the sides as well. I also bought hatch fasteners and need to know what is needed to make a good seal? I could use some help with this if you you like?
Also I found that some people use WHITE MARINE-TEX HEAVY DUTY STRUCTURAL EPOXY.

SIZE: 2 OZ PACKAGE

COLOR: WHITE

"HANDLES LIKE PUTTY, HARDENS LIKE STEEL AND SANDS LIKE WOOD"

THE MIGHTY REPAIR KIT

MARINE TEX LICKS THE TOUGHEST REPAIR PROBLEMS FROM LEAKY HULLS TO CRACKED WATER JACKETS * FORMS TENACIOUS BOND TO FIBERGLASS, METAL, GLASS, MANY PLASTICS, HARD AND SOFT WOODS, PLYWOOD AND PORCELAIN * CURES TO HIGH STRENGTH REPAIR; COMPRESSIVE STRENGTH IN EXCESS OF 13,000 PSI * NONMAGNETIC * NON CORROSIVE * NON-RUSTING * WATERPROOF * IMPERVIOUS TO DIESEL FUEL AND MANY COMMON ACIDS, ALKALIES, SOLVENTS AND CHEMICALS.

MARINE-TEX SIMPLIFIES THE MOST DIFFICULT REPAIR OR RESTORATION PROJECT. MARINE-TEX IS A HEAVY-DUTY STRUCTURAL EPOXY. THIS EASY TO USE PUTTY CAN BE MOLDED TO ANY SHAPE. CAN BE APPLIED TO VERTICAL AND OVERHEAD SURFACES. FEATHERS SMOOTH AS GLASS. BONDS TO PROPERLY PREPARED WOOD, STEEL, ALUMINUM, MOST PLASTICS. PERMANENTLY JOINS DISSIMILAR MATERIALS WITHOUT GALVANIC ACTION. FAST, EASY REPAIRS FOR JET SKIS, SAIL BOARDS, SURF BOARDS. CAN BE DRILLED, THREADED, SANDED, PAINTED.

MARINE-TEX SIMPLIFIES THE REPAIR OF WATER JACKETS, CRANKCASES, RADIATORS, REFRIGERATORS, AUTO-BODY DENTS, RIFLE/GUN BEDS AND OTHER EQUIPMENT.

PART # 2007126 WHITE

Is this what I need to make the hull smooth?http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/KGrHqZlgE2ELmWwyBNiKD9Solw_35.jpg

[twissted]

Where did you buy the Flier esc and what amp are they rated?
They are 280 amp and I hope that is enough! I should have went with the 350 amp. They will run on 16s lipos though. I bought the direct from the manufacture. Cathy is the sales rep. She is easy to work with and service is unreal! Here is here email. cathy@fliermodel.com I payed less than 200.00 each I think around 180.00.

[twissted]

Did you guys catch the holes that I drilled so that the motors cool properly? I still need to add a rear mount. it will be a simple saddle that has holes on each that will have zip-ties holding it in place.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona079.jpg

[Doby]

Just so I can check my calculations...you did say 16S on 1200 Kv motors...correct?

You might want to consider an alternate method for your servo mount....4 small bearing areas epoxied to the hull might not hold up long with the stresses this set up will see. Consider a mounting method that bolts it through to the tunnel of the hull.

[twissted]

thanks for the servo advice I think I will beef it up. I plan on running the boat with 8s and 6s lipos. I was just talking about the esc's abilities. I will run these esc's but wished that I bought higher amped. These are HV esc's and not high amped. 350 to 400 amp on the next build I do. Looking to do a 72'' after my 1/5 scale truck build. 16s X 3.7v X 1200kv = 71040 RPM yikes!

[bruiser77]

Hello, it looks like you have your drives centered on the sponsons. From what I've read and done personally, you want them as close to the tunnel as comfortably possible for the best performance. Also, the steering servo mount will not hold up with this big boat on a pull pull system. You definitely will want to beef it up substantially. Bruiser

[Chilli]

Is this what I need to make the hull smooth?http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/KGrHqZlgE2ELmWwyBNiKD9Solw_35.jpg

That's what I use for fiberglass repair and hull blueprinting.

[twissted]

must be good stuff. thx

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona085.jpg
This is the saddle that I was talking about.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona088.jpg
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona090.jpg
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona092.jpg
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona093.jpg
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona094.jpg
I thought I should make shure that the longer motors work as well.

[twissted]

props came in!

[Punisher 67]

Twissted - best of luck on your build

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona001-1.jpg
I started working on the props. I cut the tickness almost in half and the polishing is to see the work that need to be done on the front face. I use a dremel wheel that has a rubber and cutting compound in it to work the font face. I used a 80 grit sanding wheel to shape and remove the material from the backside.
I had a friend leath the 1/4" shafts down to 3/16 so that the props fit. Cost me 5.00 for his coffee for the week.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona017-1.jpg
This shows how I'm going to check and ajust the motors if needed. I just need to change the plugs to 6mm so that they fit my system.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona027-1.jpg
I thought I would show this picture to show how far the drive tubes fit inside the stingers.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona015-1.jpg
This picture shows some of the layout I have planned. The recaro seat is for the GPS unit. I also have a camers mount for the boat I will install after I start on the out side of the boat.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona014-1.jpg
This is the last pieces that will be installed for strength to the hull.

[LOVE6S]

I have a question on the drive tubes pic in the prev post, with them going that far into your stinger will you be able to adjust the stingers up and down?

[twissted]

yes they seem to be ok. it a lot of ajustment is needed I may need topull the stinger and bent the tube more. I don' really know un till that time comes. I just know that the tube fits that far in so that is where i'm starting. I like it so far.

[drwayne]

Hi.
I annealed ( heated and aircooled) the tube ends that enter the stinger.. this softens them for easier adjustment later.
The pull/pull cables are best sealed by a pair bellows inside the boat, on end the guide tube mounted from transom to where the servo sits.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?34489-TFL-56-quot-Genesis-twin&p=420539#post420539

I do like the deck brace installation B)

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona053-1.jpg
This is my tow rig. I will need to build a cool trailer so that I can enter it in the local parade this spring.

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona044.jpg
I installed the latches to the hatch.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona043.jpg
I polished the rudder. The paint needs more work. wet sand.
I also ordered more parts. Because It changed the shafts to 3/16 on the ends I need to order 3/16 drive dogs. I also ordered shaft savers and a new prop balancer. It is all comming from over seas so it will take a while to get. I think I will start on the body work. I also need to install the cooling lines and make the battery holders.

[Rocstar]

I polished the rudder. The paint needs more work. wet sand.
I also ordered more parts. Because It changed the shafts to 3/16 on the ends I need to order 3/16 drive dogs. I also ordered shaft savers and a new prop balancer. It is all comming from over seas so it will take a while to get. I think I will start on the body work. I also need to install the cooling lines and make the battery holders.
Didn't have to order from "overseas" ...Faster delivery...And you would get that warm fuzzy feeling from supporting a business that provides you this forum...just saying.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc6dm
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc468pb

[twissted]

Yes I would have but I ordered everything from ebay and used my ebay bucks so I got everything for free. This is the only reason.

[twissted]

well I got the set Aluminum water pickup flush type dual installed and the servo brace in as well.
9176791768

I will show the install later when I get to my camera.

[twissted]

To those of you that are still look at this build. I would like to point out that I haven't posted anything about speeds and I don't think I will untill I get it in the water. At first I thought I would shoot for high speeds. but getting into this build I'm thinking that It will be nice just to have a boat that works well and is fun to drive.

[Rumdog]

The build is looking great! Especially for a first build! I like the bulkhead under the deck.
What are eBay bucks?

[iridebikes247]

Hey have you decided on what you will be painting with? If staying white ace hardware appliance epoxy sticks like glue to fiberglass and you don't need to clear it. Obviously if you can spray do that but I personally hate the mess so stick with simpler spray cans and slightly "more fancy" upol clear coat. Good luck working on the sides, the body work is one of the best parts.

[twissted]

Thx I'm getting to that point.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/Picture002.jpg
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/Picture006.jpg
Thx for the advice on the servo this bace is awsome! really did the job zero flex.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/Picture012.jpg
I liked how well that brace worked for the servo that I added one for the motors as well. It was installed this morning.
]http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/Picture013.jpg

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/Picture015-1.jpg

This is a high stress points that I my have to add bolt through the 2 pieces so that the shear strength goes up. I will run untill stress cracks show.

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/Picture005.jpg

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona044.jpg
So how do I water proof the hatch with spring loaded latches?

[twissted]

So if there is anything on this build that I would recomend it would be the motor mount system that I used. The brace that ties both sides together is the key to the hole thing. I stiffens the hull where all the mass is! To say that this hull is stiff is a understatement!
The brace at the servo isn't bad eather. The holes in the braces will serve 2 fold but mostly the cooling lines will run through them. I don't know if what I have done has been done before but it is worth doing. I now have a electric serfboard!

[twissted]

Thank for the help with the body work tip. I will try it. If anything it should make for a great primer.

[twissted]

Ebay buck are for people that buy on ebay. It is bonus money that you get to use every 3 mounths. The more you buy the more you get to spend. it's free to any ebay member. Thx for the kind remarks.

[twissted]

9192391924 I went to the hardware store and bought some Epoxy paint. I went with back. the pictures show some of the lay out that this boat will use.

[twissted]

Video that I found of a large cat that is fast on 6s lipos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syL_P-dfrCc

[keithbradley]

Lots of progress twisted...nice. :Peace_Sign:
Your motors are pretty far forward in the hull...Where are you going to put the lipos?

PS- Mike's boat was pretty fast, but much smaller than the cat you're building.

EDIT: Nevermind...I just noticed the lipos in the hull in your other pic.

What are you doing with the epoxy paint? Is that for the inside?

[Xcesive8]

Hey Twissted, good on you for building your first twin.
IMO id get rid of those spring hatch locks, you cant tape over them.

Replace with MHZ flush hatch locks you can tabe over, or just use m4 -m5 screws, but if you go this way as you have to countersink the hatch for screws/bolts to sit flush, make sure you beef up under hatch first by gluing some 3-4 mm carbon squares under hatch ( whatever sits flush. then countersink..

[tiqueman]

Looking great Twisted. Giving me motivation to build mine thats been on the shelf over a year now also w/ a "boat load of parts" in it. Dissappointing about the quality of your hull. I read about it on the reviews. Other than mine being a "very light lay up" the lamination is virtually flawless. To the point I feel bad cf-ing the inside because it already looks so nice. Anyway, great looking build.. Ill get to mine someday......

[ManuelW]

And for god's sake, please cut-off the stuffing tube even at the transom, its not intended to go inside the drive.

regards,
Manuel

[drwayne]

I assembled 4 of these same hullhardware in last 14 month.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?34489-TFL-56-quot-Genesis-twin

The TFL stinger drive needs brass tube inside.
The inside diameter of stinger is 9mm x ~75mm ( 6.4mm bush only at end ) , without the brass tube inserted the flex 'whips' under thrust load and made damage to brass and flex when finished outside stinger.
9mm suit 11/32 brass with teflon liner, as supplied these kits..

respect and regards
W


And for god's sake, please cut-off the stuffing tube even at the transom, its not intended to go inside the drive.

regards,
Manuel

[bruiser77]

Maybe thats because the motors are mounted so far forward and the flex shafts or so long? My stuffing tubes are cut directly at the transom and have not had one problem with driveshafts, drives or any kind of " whipping".

[MAMBA2200]

What are eBay bucks?
when you buy on ebay you earn them and every 3 months you get free money to spend on ebay the more you spend the more you get :thumbup:

[drwayne]

Maybe thats because the motors are mounted so far forward and the flex shafts or so long? My stuffing tubes are cut directly at the transom and have not had one problem with driveshafts, drives or any kind of " whipping".

For sure.
From memory the flex are 450 or 500 long
In the first 2 factory artr builds these were pre-installed, subsequent 2 'bare hull builds I cut to ~300, where none this whip occurred ( but I also stuck 1/2" of brass into tube )
It appears this builder has not shortened his flex.
W

[Cooper]

I assembled 4 of these same hullhardware in last 14 month.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?34489-TFL-56-quot-Genesis-twin

The TFL stinger drive needs brass tube inside.
The inside diameter of stinger is 9mm x ~75mm ( 6.4mm bush only at end ) , without the brass tube inserted the flex 'whips' under thrust load and made damage to brass and flex when finished outside stinger.
9mm suit 11/32 brass with teflon liner, as supplied these kits..

respect and regards
W
It really depends how much adjustment you want to make. If you are using the right size tube for the flex, with liner or not, there will be very little angle adjustment or the driveline will be kinked ( worse than whipping).
In my opinion for the distance of having unsupported flex shaft and considering where the fulcrum point is, and size of tube, and potential for pinching the shaft, I also end the stuffing tube about 3~5mm after transom.

[Cooper]

Oh and I usually install another bushing in them, just some more support on the smooth shaft end.

[twissted]

Thx for that. I think he must of thought that the stingers weren't mounted or something.

[twissted]

I have a wire wrap that I can install to the tube befor bending. this will keep it from everything you just covered.

[Cooper]

It really depends how much adjustment you want to make. If you are using the right size tube for the flex, with liner or not, there will be very little angle adjustment or the driveline will be kinked ( worse than whipping).
In my opinion for the distance of having unsupported flex shaft and considering where the fulcrum point is, and size of tube, and potential for pinching the shaft, I also end the stuffing tube about 3~5mm after transom.
I just saw that he is using 1/4 driveline, so I would have to add that I do not have the experience with 1/4 driveline. Sorry, I would however assume they are same as 3/16 just bigger!? For what it's worth.

[twissted]

920099201092011
Working on the cooling system. I modded the 5.56 bullet casings to look like a exaust. I installed the cooling line before using JB Weld to hold them in place.

[ManuelW]

Mhh hard to imagine its desired to have the tube that far in the drive. A similar thing is for the HPR06/C5009 drives (not the bigger ones), but instead of the stuffing tube (brass/aluminium) just the teflon tube doesn't end at the transom but goes into the drive. If that TFL drive is 9mm ID it would also make sense for me, as almost any known teflon liners available here have an OD of a little below 9mm. Will also avoid damage to the drive housing, should ensure a smooth run and allow easier adjustment of the drive.
If the drive position works with almost parallel to the last step it will for sure also work with the stuffing tube that far inside the drive, I'd say its just really uncommon to do that here.

regards,
Manuel

[keithbradley]

I thought for sure those were Clecos when I first looked at the pic...after seeing it full size they look like some type of rifle ammo cases. I remember someone on this forum using those for exhaust sim, but I don't recall who it was.

[iridebikes247]

I laughed for a second when I saw the brass inserted that far in the drive. This didn't prevent me from rifling through my tool box to check the fitment of the parts and voila, perfect! Anyway the tube fits well and inserts very far into the stinger. With the flex liner in place and mhz flex safety/support bearing you could have a perfect driveline. I think some people ran into issues with these stingers developing slop? Anyway if that happens I don't see why you can't bore out the shaft and use a speedmaster 1/4 bushing instead. Anyway the boat looks great can't wait to see what it can do. Oh and fyi Twisted my super daytona hasn't yet hit the water and I bought it in September. Waiting on mhz support bearings and a hobbyking order.

[twissted]

920559205692057
I'm using a fiberglass bono that is used in marine. I have a ways to go but thought that I would share this with you.

[twissted]

It might have been me. I showed some pistol casings that I modified to do something simular.

[twissted]

Well you can't show a ballanced prop, but I have them ballanced know. I'm still trying to get the exhaust outlets just right. I have the battery placement figured out as well. Placement will very depending on the batteries and conditions of the water. I will show pictures as soon as I have the velcro straps in place to hold them.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona001-3.jpg

[TristanJones]

nice.

[iridebikes247]

Hey I spoke with someone who has run this hull before, the boat runs well with around 35-38% COG. Figured I would throw this out there as I am getting my FC ready for its maiden so I personally haven't run mine yet either, 20 degree weather in NY is keeping me far away from the water.

[twissted]

I have the same weather here (cold). I have gone ice fishing and have been doing well at it catching Eastern Brooks. I smokem!
I'm in no rush. I always build something in the winter. I thought that I would try a boat.

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona003-1.jpg
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/FCSuperDaytona005-2.jpg

[twissted]

I was told that the flex shaft needs to be cut at 300mm. I only took a inch off my flex shafts. I plan on running my batteries in the rear of the boat.

[twissted]

92543
I got apair of these in yesterday. Made of stainless and look even better that the picture that I got from ebay.

[twissted]

92973
This is where the batteries will sit

[twissted]

Well I spent some more money os some Lipos. Pair of 8s nano tech 65-130c 5000 I will use them for speed runs to keep the boat light.
93973

[twissted]

9443694437
I picked this vinyl sticker up un ebay. I'm liking it so far.

[drwayne]

92543
I got apair of these in yesterday. Made of stainless and look even better that the picture that I got from ebay.

From experience on these from LZRC( promise hobby) the metal is brittle.
I had fractured 2 at the opp side to the bolt befor I decided to use 1/4 aero wheel colkars.
Regs
DocW

[twissted]

Thx for the heads up. I will look into the aero pieces.

[iridebikes247]

Hey bud I feel like you built this boat overnight you need an rc ice cutter to plow the way for the mystic lol. It sucks waiting for the maiden run because of weather. My boat is heavy as I run 12s1p per side this thing weighs like 26 or 27 pounds loaded up I think. Makes quite a wake which is cool. Can't wait to see video of your boat it looks like fightercat has moved quite a few of the super daytona hulls in the past few months. Very light layup hull for those interested and build quality is "ok," but it can be made great with braces/carbon.

Oh and Twisted thanks a lot for making me the carbon fiber braces for my boat very nice job and they look great in my boat!

[twissted]

I'm glad your happy with the work. I will get the chance to test. I'm in no hurry. I did put some thought into the weight issue before starting my build. I think that if this build turns out well, I'll do a nice pait job otherwise I will paint it myself. The picture I posted is showing the size of the vinyl stickerthat will be used a the theme of this boat. Just like the zonda has a dragon head as well.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Zonda/RampageXBE027-1.jpg

[twissted]

Custom tow truck for the boat!
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/XBE5ive038_zpscee30006.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/XBE5ive038_zpscee30006.jpg.html) http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/XBE5ive039_zpsc01a4629.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/XBE5ive039_zpsc01a4629.jpg.html) http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/XBE5ive036_zpsb65bf0df.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/XBE5ive036_zpsb65bf0df.jpg.html) http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/RampageXBE-T007_zps91d5e5d8.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/RampageXBE-T007_zps91d5e5d8.jpg.html) http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/XBE5ive040_zpse1412989.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/XBE5ive040_zpse1412989.jpg.html) http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/IMG_39011_zps6be6d866.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/IMG_39011_zps6be6d866.jpg.html)
This is a 10 hp (Beast 910kv)build with a 200 amp esc (Skyrc EX200) the batts a pair of 8s 5000 lipos that discharge @ 65-130c. I building a carbon chassis for it soon. I have about 3500 into this build. A tow hitch and trailer will fallow. should be a real show stopper.

[iridebikes247]

That thing looks awesome. Look forward to seeing the boat on the water is it finished?

[twissted]

no I haven't worked on it in quite a while. I will be soon though I'm getting this truck ready for the local parade. the trailer as well. I want to have it done by next years parade. I may even build another boat that is carbon fiber so that is goes with the truck body. I will show more pics of the truck as soon as I have it finished.
I hope to be around some water soon to try the boats that I have. I also bought some bigger motors for my green Zonda that run on 8s. Will be looking for some esc's that will do the job.

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Zonda/img_4008_zps2128d9cf.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Zonda/img_4008_zps2128d9cf.jpg.html)
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Zonda/img_4007_zps98a7b012.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Zonda/img_4007_zps98a7b012.jpg.html)
I have been having a lot of fun with this boat. The boat has no high speed crashes yet. But it is in need of some work. The mounting points of the deck inside the hull that mounts the servo, all but one,broke loose and so I re did them with marine 2 part epoxy. I also added new battery mounts that lower the 6s lipos down low. This boat with the 45mm props runs great. I would guess that its around 60 mph with the stock motors (not bad). 15 min. run times and not heat issues.
I will be adding some carbon fiber to the rudder mount from the inside soon and some webbing to the hull as well it will look much like the l400mm cat that I'm still working on someday. As a matter of fact I will be mounting my 8s lipos in the 1400mm hull the same way this boat is set up.

[SSchevy98]

92543
I got apair of these in yesterday. Made of stainless and look even better that the picture that I got from ebay.

suitability of those 3/16 inch shaft?

[twissted]

Zonda One Pc Flex Cable .187 (3/16) flex cable with 3/16 ground shaft. Cut to length with soldered collet end and drive dog slot. Excellent quality and very strong. Very well balanced and true running. Best on the market. Has a 10-32 thread. Prop nut included. Made in USA. $25.00 from Kintec racing.

[twissted]

Having the shafts turned down may cause problems. If it breaks then I will go to larger shafts. The motors that I'm using could snap the shafts! So it is something to keep in mind.
I'm currently working on the battery mounts that are above the drve shafts. I will send pics soon.
I have a lot of rc stuff going so this build is slooooow! It should be done some time before summer is out.

[twissted]

pics!
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/075_zpsc00faab7.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/075_zpsc00faab7.jpg.html)
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/076_zpsad0b489e-1-1.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Redcat%20Rampage%20XB-E/FC%20Super%20Daytona/076_zpsad0b489e-1-1.jpg.html)

As you can see the 8s lipos have lots of room. I atill need to add the plate that will conect between the two pieces of carbon that not only holds the battery tray but stiffenes the mount that holds the stuffing tubes. Pretty slick!

[twissted]

I'm building a carbon saddle for the rudder mount and also making a longer rudder blade from Kaiser T6.
103375103376103377103378

[twissted]

http://www.diytrade.com/china/pd/5443079/Big_Germany_Cat_Catamaran_double_gasoline_power.ht ml
I was looking at this as well

[twissted]

I found a larger rudder it's 185mm and is build better than the HOR 150mm rudder that I have now. I think I will use the 150 rudder on my Zonda. and use this bigger and stronger rudder in this build.
85 and 13 shipping on ebay
103423

[drwayne]

http://www.diytrade.com/china/pd/5443079/Big_Germany_Cat_Catamaran_double_gasoline_power.ht ml
I was looking at this as well

Manufactured here.. they do sell direct.
http://www.dtrcmodel.com/

[twissted]

Thank you!

[twissted]

buying a new rudder that I found on ebay it looks well made, and bigger it's a 185mm blade instead of 150mm. Better than the 60.00 one that I have now. this one is 85 plus 13 shipping
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Genesis%20%20Big%20Cat/QQ56FE724720130709002433_zps78ae0d82.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Genesis%20%20Big%20Cat/QQ56FE724720130709002433_zps78ae0d82.jpg.html)
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Genesis%20%20Big%20Cat/T2eC16dcE9s4PuQbBR2uhTb5qw60_3_zps7031a456.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Genesis%20%20Big%20Cat/T2eC16dcE9s4PuQbBR2uhTb5qw60_3_zps7031a456.jpg.htm l)

[rscheffer]

Small tipp.
Loose the cowl locks that are on the back side and replace then far screw locks wich can be taped air/water tight.
Of not you will get water in side your hull and damage you elektronics.
We here in europe juse screwed bolds/locks ond boats like yours on at least the 4corners an mostly in the middle of the sides as well wich wil be taped over when we tape our hatches.
I know ist morre effort to get boating but our years of experience has proven this is the only insurance to keep the pressius insides dry.
Most people dont have anny clue of the forces that a hull gets when it crashes.
And yes we all crash from time to time. Smille......
Keep up you build.
Greats from The Netherlands.
Ramon

[twissted]

thanks I have started on that already. I will get into that when I show the install of the new hardware. Thx for catching that though.

[twissted]

103924103925103926103927103928
So the 180mm rudder came in and at fist look it is a nice piece. To bad it's a nice fake! The hydraulic rams are more then twice the length that is needed and the bolt that is used to hold the ram to the base runs all the way through. the base mounts are good looking but you can't use a larger pin and drill a hole to run the cable through. Speaking of cable! It comes with solid shafts that are for looks only.

So here is some pictures of the install and also the left over pieces that you don't need. Also I should point out that it took over 4 hours to come up with this fix. The red electrical fitting are used to sleeve the rod end after I cut the ram housing to the length that was needed. I used a step bit to make it fit on the small end of the plastic. As for the bolt that runs through I made them super short on the side that has the threads in it on the other side I drilled to fit the next size bolt and taped it. I also cut the bolt super short so that the treads didn't go through. I Loctite in place after this is a done deal. As for the ram shafts I cut them down to about 7/8" and then drilled the shaft hallow and soldered them is side. The up side to this is the shafts that are sent are made of brass and chrome plated( ez 2 drill and solder). The down side is you need a small bit and be careful(slow). I also egg shaped the mounting plate hole in the center to get a good fit. The rod ends that connect to the rudder are also to long and will need to be cut down or replaced. I still need the add a piece of tubing on the end that I cut so that it looks like a ram again.

[twissted]

Here is what the picture shows as mounted on a fake boat (must be the rudder doesn't work)!!!
[/ATTACH]103929103930103931

!!!WARNING!!! THIS RUDDER REQUIRES HEAVY MODIFICATIONS TO WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[twissted]

I will say this the billet work is awesome and this is a very solid rudder. It is a solid rudder and has no break-a-way system to it!

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/0816131145_zps94460ed8.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/0816131145_zps94460ed8.jpg.html)
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/24060244-1a11-4196-bc39-bdb091d2f5dd_zps30bd5892.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/24060244-1a11-4196-bc39-bdb091d2f5dd_zps30bd5892.jpg.html)

The 185mm prop next to the 150mm.

[Cooper]

So what was that rudder made for?

[twissted]

I'm installing it on my Genesis. as far as what it was made for I have no idea. The parts that make it function are wrong. The rods are solid so there isn't any way to add cables un less you drill them out and solder some in as I did. As far as I can tell it has nice parts and they left the parts that make it work out. have a bolt run through the middle of the ram so that nothing can pass through? Are you kidding me? I did enjoy making it work though!

[twissted]

I added some hooks to the hull. I front and also on the hatch I have one as a handle to lift the hatch.
104124104125

This is for retrieving with a fishing pole. There hooks of a pair of old boots.

[twissted]

http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Genesis%20%20Big%20Cat/DSC00007_zpsa6dc8b73.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Genesis%20%20Big%20Cat/DSC00007_zpsa6dc8b73.jpg.html)
So this is the decals that will go on the sides of this hull the paint will be yellow.

[twissted]

Here is the first time that I ran the boat. Video of what happened below. I have another drive shaft some place. I hope it's the right one. I didn't even open it up. That sucked.
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu2/Jack59/Genesis%20%20Big%20Cat/011_zpsa20684fd.jpg (http://s628.photobucket.com/user/Jack59/media/Genesis%20%20Big%20Cat/011_zpsa20684fd.jpg.html)
VIDEO:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5y9DjASbkI

[B Neal]

I'll bite,
I'm sure that wasn't caused by bearings on the prop shaft?

[iridebikes247]

Rusted flex ? Kinda a cool souvenir for adays running though.

[keithbradley]

Rusted flex ? Kinda a cool souvenir for adays running though. It would have to be very, very rusted to break under such little load. I don't think he hit more than 30mph on that run.

It's kind of obvious why it broke... It isn't surprising to see that nobody is helping him, but I'm sure he's figured it out by now anyway.

[flraptor07]

It would have to be very, very rusted to break under such little load. I don't think he hit more than 30mph on that run.

It's kind of obvious why it broke... It isn't surprising to see that nobody is helping him, but I'm sure he's figured it out by now anyway.
Looks to me like the wrong wind cable!

[iridebikes247]

yea, nvm the rust. its clear now

[Rocstar]

"You gotta be kidding me"....Wrong way.....

[Cooper]

Yea I kinda agree on all the above. Are your props spinning inward or outward? I wasn't going to say anything but now its out. To me it looks like an unwound cable. Look through the Teflon, you can see the direction. And the unwind is on outer layer, as can be seen the inner layer is tight. Kinda a give-a-way. :) I'm no detective but a fan of Mr. Obvious.

Twisted, when you attach your flex cables just carefully look at the wind of the cable. Now imagine the direction the motor is turning the cable. Now the prop will be resistance, so if you have resistance on the other end and it will twist the windings tighter then that is the correct direction for that cable. Still not sure then just take a napkin and twist it, now figure out which way will tighten it and which way will make it come apart. Most of the time people have the props turning inward towards each other. If you were looking at the back of the boat and the direction of the tops of props. You can have them turning outward also but will have to switch cables to accommodate direction of rotation.

[twissted]

It's the wrong wind on the cable. The replacement I have in know looks to be the one that should have went in. I'm working on the servo horn made of carbon fiber. It will be shorter so that the steering isn't so touchy. Thanks for your help guys. I hope to be tuning, so that I can I get max speeds. The paint will come later. These are 6 pole motors and getting the speed controls set to the motors is also something that will be looked at. From the sound of the hull while running sounds good and solid. It doesn't get to plain as fast as my Zonda. That could be from the hull design, or just some tuning of the stinger. I have a lot of things to learn. This is fun for me at this point.

[twissted]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reYx8bsBRb8

Here is a SSS5694 800kv motor is a hull that is like mine.

[twissted]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5n_Krc3YWfE
here is another SSS5694 motor that is moving this 45" hull with ease and it is using the same esc's that I'm using.

[twissted]

I thought I would post this. I pulled out the reconditioned hull to work on the inside of the hull so that it is stronger. I added epoxy to the sides with fiberglass mat. It's not pretty but it is strong. I have a little more to do and I will take it out for the 2nd time and see if it will be out for the summer or just out!
I'll never buy anything from Fightercat again!
As for the videos they show the boats doing well with power and at a low price. And that is my point. To build my first boat cheap and Cheap it is. Cheap piece of crap hull with cheap components. I'm not even going to upgrade as this build started as crap and polishing a turd is all this build is.
As for the motors I like them and they make a lot of power.

[twissted]

114820