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View Full Version : 56-1nch Venom P-1 gas to brushless question



forescott
11-23-2012, 11:34 AM
Hey guys. Against all the advice ive read against the big venom p-1 hull, I decided to pick one up since I love the look of the hull and they are now discontinued. Just bought a new rtr off ebay and am going to convert it to brushless. Aside from doing what I can to strengthen the hull, I am looking at the castle 2028 on 8-10s. Not looking for break-neck speed. I'd be happy with a reliable 50+. However I'm a noob to the HV setups and have been trying to gather information on the best esc that will suit my needs. Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :tiphat:

madmikepags
11-24-2012, 02:16 PM
the 2028 with a castle 200HV on 10s would get you where you want to go, 50mph reliably shouldn't be an issue depending on the weight though. Don't skimp on batteries, Dinogy is what I recommend..

forescott
11-25-2012, 06:35 PM
Was kinda hoping I could get away with a leopard or proteus motor to save some $$$. Ive seen/heard some guys running leopard 5698's on 10s in similar hulls, but have no idea how reliable they have been. The castle setup seems to be the best quality choice. hmmmm....... Having a hard time letting go of the cash! :crying:

madmikepags
11-26-2012, 03:17 PM
you definitely can 750-850kv and 8000-12,000 watts on 10S 4 or 6 pole motor I don't know the nomenclature for the leopards or the proteus motors but the Castle is definitely the bulletproof choice.

iamandrew
11-26-2012, 05:27 PM
yeah I really like the look of that hull as well
Most Venom hulls are actually very thin and light, the KOS large gasser hull is (too) thin
Also the hatch on the cat breaks apart easily, so might need to enforce the one on the P1 as well

Jason4636
11-26-2012, 06:17 PM
Was kinda hoping I could get away with a leopard or proteus motor to save some $$$. Ive seen/heard some guys running leopard 5698's on 10s in similar hulls, but have no idea how reliable they have been. The castle setup seems to be the best quality choice. hmmmm....... Having a hard time letting go of the cash! :crying:
I have a Proteus 524 3t and a FC motor mount up for sale. I'll make you a deal if you wanna run them.

I was going to put it in an MHZ Mystic Study its a 56" mono. With the proteus run on 10s and a SF 300Pro+ esc. It would have been right at a solid 50+mph and very reliable. I've switched to a twin Proteus 528's, there just like the Castle 2028. But I'm going twins. I'm going to try and break 75-80mph.

forescott
11-26-2012, 06:54 PM
yeah I really like the look of that hull as well
Most Venom hulls are actually very thin and light, the KOS large gasser hull is (too) thin
Also the hatch on the cat breaks apart easily, so might need to enforce the one on the P1 as well

yeah, I have the venom/atomic 55-inch brushless cat. Its pretty thin, but ok for the little outrunner they put in it. Any 56mm motor will need some substantial beefing-up.

forescott
11-26-2012, 06:55 PM
I have a Proteus 524 3t and a FC motor mount up for sale. I'll make you a deal if you wanna run them.

I was going to put it in an MHZ Mystic Study its a 56" mono. With the proteus run on 10s and a SF 300Pro+ esc. It would have been right at a solid 50+mph and very reliable. I've switched to a twin Proteus 528's, there just like the Castle 2028. But I'm going twins. I'm going to try and break 75-80mph.

I saw your ad. I want to get the boat in my hands first to see what I'm dealing with. Should have it by friday.

Jason4636
11-26-2012, 07:08 PM
I didn't know if you had seen it. I wish you luck on the hull. I know the hull I'm getting is Carbon fiber/Kevlar, but it's gonna cost me.

forescott
11-26-2012, 07:48 PM
I didn't know if you had seen it. I wish you luck on the hull. I know the hull I'm getting is Carbon fiber/Kevlar, but it's gonna cost me.

Thanks. I'll keep an eye on your sale thread!

gtrcguru
12-02-2012, 02:53 PM
i am thinking of doing the same thing but w/ 55 seagad. i know where i can pick one up local at a killer price. almost to good to pass up. so my question is would anybody be intrested in motor pipe and all the gas related equipment and what do you think it is worth(to the right buyer)?

forescott
12-02-2012, 08:02 PM
I'm gonna try and sell my stuff over at Jims rc boat dock. Lotsa gas guys over there.

forescott
12-03-2012, 04:58 PM
Just got the boat today. Looks really nice. like the hardware. Trim tabs are kinda weird. Like a tab and turn fin in one. Anyone interested in the motor/clutch let me know. Its all coming out soon.

lenny
12-03-2012, 06:18 PM
How much are we talking for the motor and stuff you are pulling out ?
I may have a use for them,
Any idea on how much run time on the motor ?
I had the same turn and trim tab on my 35"p1,
I just hammered them flat and flip flop them from side to side added real turn fins and modded the rudder to be offset.
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forescott
12-03-2012, 11:03 PM
How much are we talking for the motor and stuff you are pulling out ?
I may have a use for them,
Any idea on how much run time on the motor ?


This is a brand new boat. The motor has never been fired. Im thinking $120 shipped for the complete motor, mounts, clutch, tuned pipe.

Alfa Spirit
12-04-2012, 12:15 AM
I' ve got a 50'' Fountain P1 hull, I would like a twin setup, it' s not easy to find the right setup :confused1:

http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/5074/powerboatp18.jpg

lenny
12-04-2012, 12:24 AM
Hey Scott,
That sound pretty good to me,
You are going FE with it right ?
What else will you not using that is in it ?
Gas tank anything else ?
Let me know and we can make a package deal on the stuff I think.

forescott
12-04-2012, 12:37 AM
Hey Scott,
That sound pretty good to me,
You are going FE with it right ?
What else will you be not using that is in it ?
Gas tank anything else ?
Let me know and we can make a package deal on the stuff I think.
Yup, gonna run the castle 2028 and ice 200hv on 10s.
I would throw the gas tank and kill switch too, keeping the radio box and servos, transom hardware and propshaft/flex.

forescott
12-08-2012, 11:19 AM
Just found this on youtube. Pretty much what I'm looking for.
aByeqcTXb5s&feature=plcp

lenny
12-08-2012, 11:31 AM
Hey that looks pretty good Scott,
Dose he say what motor he is running and on what S cells ?
It sound a little ruff in the drive I think,
May be some binding on the flex shaft.
Where do you find your boat at for sale ?

forescott
12-08-2012, 11:36 AM
Its actually a fine design build. I think 5692 motor set up for 10s, but they call their motors nemesis gold, and I'm not sure of the esc. I got mine on ebay. Just found a new one at towerhobbies in the scratch and dent section with box damage only for $720. If you have super saver club membership you can save an additional 50-105 bucks and free shipping.

Hey I sent you 2-pms regarding the parts. Do you still want em??

lenny
12-08-2012, 12:06 PM
Yes Scott,
Just sent you a pm.

Alfa Spirit
12-08-2012, 12:32 PM
Just found this on youtube. Pretty much what I'm looking for.
aByeqcTXb5s&feature=plcp

This Fountain KOS is not very fast, Have a look to this 58" deep vee twin setup with two 4092, 8S on each motor :thumbup1:


http://vimeo.com/50171320

forescott
12-21-2012, 06:29 PM
Just got my castle 2028 today. Now waiting for the hydra ice i ordered to come in.90519

forescott
01-05-2013, 06:18 PM
Got some more parts this week. Just waiting on my motor mount and new stepped down flex shaft so I can run 3/16 inch props. 91273

forescott
01-11-2013, 11:58 PM
Got a chance to work on the p-1 a little today. 2028 mounted up to the rail mount from southriverrc.com. Turns out the stock flex shaft is kinda weird. 1/4 inch flex into 1/4 inch prop shaft with 5mm step down, and the stinger has 5mm bearings. Same setup as the little p-1 but bigger. i think I,m gonna use the stock shaft and try opening up some 3/16 props to 5mm.(not much of a difference) also the rear motor mount holes line up perfectly with the stock gas mount holes!

i have a swordfish 300 coming tomorrow from OSE that I think will mount nicely right in front of the motor where the stock gas tank was.(I'm using the castle ice 200 in another hull for now)This is turning to be a pretty simple conversion. The hardest part is going to be extending and supporting the stuffing tube extension, and building some battery trays.

91783
91785
91787

lenny
01-12-2013, 12:17 AM
The hardest part is going to be extending and supporting the stuffing tube extension,

Hey,
Just put a outer tube over the inner tubes about 1 1/2" to tie them together and epoxy it.

Doby
01-12-2013, 12:21 AM
Just a thought, but why not just move the motor closer to the stuffing tube, rather than extending it?

forescott
01-12-2013, 10:58 AM
Just a thought, but why not just move the motor closer to the stuffing tube, rather than extending it?

Because the motor gets closer to the bottom of the hull the further back I move it, and it hits the steps in the hull.

forescott
01-12-2013, 11:01 AM
The hardest part is going to be extending and supporting the stuffing tube extension,

Hey,
Just put a outer tube over the inner tubes about 1 1/2" to tie them together and epoxy it.

yeah, the stuffing tube is weird too. The aluminum tube is away oversized and there is at least 2 layers of teflon tube inside to make up the difference. I have some brass tube that Im going to weave in between some of the teflon and make a support at the motor from some hobby grade ply and hold it with some glass cloth and epoxy.

justski
01-12-2013, 11:18 AM
This is a brand new boat. The motor has never been fired. Im thinking $120 shipped for the complete motor, mounts, clutch, tuned pipe.....

i am sorry if i over looked it but do you still have the motor??

Doby
01-12-2013, 02:54 PM
Because the motor gets closer to the bottom of the hull the further back I move it, and it hits the steps in the hull.
Makes sense!

forescott
01-12-2013, 05:06 PM
Makes sense!

Actually i took a second look, if I turn the motor mounts upside down and dremmel away a little epoxy, i think I might get the motor back enough to use the stock stuffing tube. Thanks for prompting me to take a second look doby!

lenny
01-12-2013, 05:19 PM
That sounds like a good fix,
Or just flip the front one around and the back one flipped around and upside down.
Are you going to mod the trim tabs / Turn fins ?
Like I did on my P1 35"and just add good turn fins.

Doby
01-12-2013, 07:27 PM
Actually i took a second look, if I turn the motor mounts updide down and dremmel away a little epoxy, i think I might get the motor back enough to use the stock stuffing tube. Thanks for prompting me to take a second look doby!

No problem...my standard consulting fee applies though.....

justski
01-12-2013, 07:39 PM
Did you sell the motor.OK SORRY I SEEN IT NOW

forescott
01-13-2013, 01:19 PM
I got a little work done to the p-1. Motor mounted, flex shaft cut, cooling lines hooked up. Next im going to mount the sf300 and make up some battery trays.
91868

91869

91870

91871

lenny
01-13-2013, 01:37 PM
Hey,
That worked out great.:beerchug:
And looking nice and clean.

forescott
01-13-2013, 01:43 PM
Made a small mounting plate out of 3/16 hobby grade plywood that I'm going to mount on top of the stringers just in front of the motor. This will allow for the wires from the esc to drop down under the plate and give them room to bend.

91872

91873

forescott
01-14-2013, 07:33 PM
Almost there. Made some battery trays out of 2" aluminum flat stock and 1/2 x 3/4-90. Pop riveted the pieces together an used two bolts each to attach them to the stringers. I will use some epoxy on the other side of the trays where they sit on the hull. I'm just gonna lay some 2" velcro on the trays. A little wood glue and some small screws to attach the esc mount. Just gonna use some velcro and a couple of zip ties to hold the esc in place. I want the esc to come out easy so I can remove it for reading data logging info. Just waiting on some more 8mm bullets I ordered and then seal up all the holes and openings in the canopy.

91942

91943

91944

forescott
01-15-2013, 08:23 PM
Little more done today. Sealed up the old kill switch hole with a drain plug from an old mean machine, layed the velcro in the battery trays, reinforced some of the wood stringers with extra epoxy, and polished a 1/2 inch piece of brass tube and filled it with epoxy to take the place of the gas exaust pipe where it exited the hull.

92018

92019

92020

forescott
01-27-2013, 08:35 PM
Got my program box yesterday. All ready for a trial run. 57mm carbon 2-blade on 8s lipo. 92737

forescott
03-01-2013, 08:29 PM
Determined to finally get this boat in the water this weekend. Bought some thin plexiglass from tap plastics and heated and bent a piece into place. Epoxied it in the best I could. Got a little epoxy on the windshield so I decided to paint the whole window section black from underneath to cover any imperfections. Now i'm gonna fill the front section of the canopy with 2 part foam to ensure their wont be any leaks and keep the canopy afloat if it somehow comes off.

94492

94493

94494

forescott
03-01-2013, 08:30 PM
The foam will also act as backing to reinforce the thin flimsy stock windshield.

forescott
03-01-2013, 08:31 PM
Anyone know if i can buy two part foam at my local hardware store? Home depot? Lowes?

lenny
03-01-2013, 09:01 PM
I would add more glass to the hole hatch,
And than I would add some foam of some kind for flotation.
That is a weak spots waiting to happen.

forescott
02-05-2014, 05:53 PM
OK heres some terrible video I took by myself of the p-1 I've been trying to get the bugs out of. Im having issues with cavitation, the hull wanting to hook right all the time, and general low top speed. Running the stock 54mm 3-blade from my atomic arc, 10s, castle 2028. FE calc says I should be seeing about 50mph. This run max speed was 36, with lots of cavitation, and a nervous driver trying to keep the boat going straight. The hooking problem goes away as the boat accelerates. I think the stock stinger is a crummy design and is mounted too high on the hull, so since I'm running a much smaller prop than the stock 68mm gas prop, I have to trim the stinger way down to get it to hook up and get on plane. But the stinger angle is too far negative once its on plane. Could the fact that I can't get the prop far enough in the water cause it to act like a paddle wheel, pushing the back end to the left, making the boat steer right?? I think I might need a prop of at least 60mm, and probably a different stinger to correct the drive angle. Any thoughts?? Oh yeah and the props haft is 5mm so I'd need to replace it with a 1/4 shaft stepped down to 3/16 to run any props other than What I have.

cGw7yQ2gsic

forescott
02-05-2014, 05:55 PM
@ 40 seconds I bring it in and zoom in. I think thats just making it more difficult to keep the boat in frame. Wont be doing that anymore. Ill be uploading some pics of the stinger soon.

forescott
02-05-2014, 06:02 PM
some pics of the stinger, drive angle, and overall bananna shape of the hull bottom??

forescott
02-05-2014, 06:03 PM
one more...

lenny
02-05-2014, 07:13 PM
Can you post some pictures of the setup in the hull and where cells are sitting at in the hull ?

That 54mm cat prop is probably a lifter and not going to work to good on a mono,
But test with it anyway for now.

First thing I would do is get that stinger pointing up about 1/8" to 3/16 from the bottom of the hull,
And take the spacing washer off at the prop dog and just keep a gap of 3/16 to 1/4 there.

Also move the trim tabs up about 3/16" to 1/4 at the ends of them.

Than I would move the cells back towards the transom about 2" if you have the room,
Maybe more.

The rudder also looks like it is kicked in towards the bottom of the boat,
And that will bring the bow down.
Try to get it straight and level and snug it up tight.

Than do a test run and see how it rides and get up on plane,
And check for speeds to.
Just do not push it to fast because it will not be that stable just yet.

forescott
02-15-2014, 11:09 AM
Still working on the issues. Got a new speedmaster 1/4" stinger and new stepped down shaft to accept 3/16 props. I have a new 55mm cnc 2-blade and also a 59mm 3-blade as well. So I got the old stinger off and dremmeled the existing stuffing tube exit hole down flush with the hull bottom. Installed the new stinger and also new smaller stuffing tube with the correct bend. The stock tube was a straight piece of aluminum with 2 teflon tubes inside. I was able to dremmel the rudder mount holes a little to correct the angle. Also the rails are 2-ply plywood and the radio box screws down from the top onto the rails and the screws seperated the plies of wood. Trying the quick fix with wood glue and clamps. Might have to figure something else out if the glue doesnt hold. Just waiting on a new pair of turnigy nano-tech A-spec 65-130c 5s lipos that I want to try out and run as a 1P setup. Run times will be short, but I think this hull will do better with less weight.

lenny
02-15-2014, 03:09 PM
No gap why ?

forescott
02-15-2014, 11:04 PM
Just mocked up Lenny, everything is still loose. Just trying to get a pic of the drive setup compared to previous post of the stock hardware.

lenny
02-16-2014, 12:00 PM
Ok, :tiphat:
But I am talking about at the bottom of the hull and stinger.
Normally you need a 1/8" or more gap there,
Or have it so you can slide the stinger mount up or down for adjustments.
That is if the mount has slotted bolt holes in it.

forescott
02-22-2014, 01:00 PM
Just waiting on a set of these before I re-test.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__35624__Turnigy_nano_tech_A_SPEC_5000mah_5S_65_13 0C_Lipo_Pack_USA_Warehouse_.html

Not sure what you are asking Lenny. Are you talking about the bottom of the stinger bracket being 1/8 above the bottom of the hull?

lenny
02-22-2014, 01:19 PM
Yes.

forescott
09-20-2019, 08:48 PM
Resurrecting this old thread. I never got a chance to finish this project. After installing the new stinger, it sat for a while and I sold the electronics. Yesterday I bought a motor and esc from a zelos 48 that I am installing to run on 8s with a 52mm prop. Hoping for good results.