Castle Hydra Firmware

[Raydee]

Ok something is funny with Castle's Hydra firmware and so far I am not the only one to notice it. I am hoping some of you guys can try a little experiment and see if its a software problem.
Here is the deal, I set my boat up with the older version 1.3 firmware and ran my hull. With a 637 prop the boat ran pretty good. I decided to update my firmware to the latest 1.4 version and with the same setup the boat was very slow. Not only was the boat slow but everything was cold after a 2 min run. I ended up working my way all the way up to a 445 prop before the boat was as fast as it originally was with the old firmware and the 637 prop. Last night I decided to revert back to the older 1.3 firmware and run my boat again. I knew that it ran good on a small prop before so I threw on a 642 prop and ran it for about a min. It ran great but when I pulled it out of the water everything was much hotter than it ever ran in the past. The motor was about 138* the ESC was 150* and the cells were 135*. My lipo's have never been over 125* ever after longer runs. Now the big question is do I just run a smaller prop with the older firmware or run the new firmware with a larger diameter prop? Why is there such a difference between the two firmwares?
If one of you guys would like to give it a try, run your boat on the normal prop that you like and then update to the new Firmware and see if the speed changes or not. Maybe it is just a problem with my Hydra or maybe there is a problem with the firmware. If you decide to try this let me know what you find so I can post this to Castle and see what they think. One thing to remember is Castle relies on the boaters for feedback and if there is a problem we need to let them know.

[Doug Smock]

Thanks for the info Raydee. Please let us know what CC has to say.

Doug

[Mich. Maniac]

The only thing that catches my eye is that it says initial HV hydra firmware. Is that what you have or just low voltage hydra?

The 1.4 that is.

[Raydee]

Yeah it is the Standard Hydra 120LV

[Eyekandyboats]

i agree Ray. i have done this with my boat.
i ran 48mph on a 642 with 1.3.... i changed to 1.4 and i ran not even 43 mph.
i proped up to a M445!!! and got 49.5 mph and then a 646 at about 54 mph.
every thing is cool with 1.4 but the 445 and the 646 were about the same tep as the 1.3 on the 642... but why is the props so damn large
1.3 is a much better system . don't know why but it is kinda annoying.. i would revert back to the 1.3 software. if only the CC240 hydra has not of fried...... due to no reason at all. cool temps all round the board.

[Raydee]

I plan on bringing my Laptop to the pond tomorrow if the weather holds up and do some more testing.

[Flying Scotsman]

Raydee, this is very interesting, it seems CC are limiting amp or voltage draw with there new firmware update.

Douggie

[Raydee]

Douggie, I thought that also but I would like to see if others notice the same thing. It is very possible that I just have a faulty controller.

[Flying Scotsman]

PS, I still have not updated and run 1.3 no problems

[Flying Scotsman]

I hate to say this, is CC bumping up their cell and li-po ratings to placate many pis...d off boaters with an esc that does not meet advertised demands and then change the software.

Douggie

[SweetAccord]

Sorry, you all are confusing me? The Castle Hydra 120 has no connections for any firmware upgrading? Am I missing something???

[Jeepers]

Sorry, you all are confusing me? The Castle Hydra 120 has no connections for any firmware upgrading? Am I missing something???


yep the Castle Link!

I have been wanting to try this but I dont have a lap top.................................... yes I do my dad has one, just remebered.

[Doug Smock]

PS, I still have not updated and run 1.3 no problems

Me too.

[Lakefrontlivin]

Hi,
Just started programming my Hydra 120.
Should I use the 1.03v or the 1.04v. ?
Also what should I have for settings.?
I'm running this in a Viper Hydro with a 12L motor and 2S1P in series...
What should the low voltage shutoff be set at?
Thanx in advance...
Tom H.

[Raydee]

Tom I send you a Email but I would stick with the 1.3 for now.
Set timing to normal, Cutoff at 3.3v per cell or 13.2 volts.

[andym]

I am wondering why we have not heard from Castle on this matter, they would have read this thread I am sure. CC where are you????????????????

[SweetAccord]

I see, you are all using the Castle Link USB Programming Kit, aright.

http://www.castlecreations.com/products/castle_link.html

[Joe Ford]

I am wondering why we have not heard from Castle on this matter, they would have read this thread I am sure. CC where are you????????????????

Right here. :) Have you gents re-calibrated the ESC to the radio after updating the software? This is a must. Also, have you checked the throttle curve, and are you seeing anything weird there? Let me know please.

[Raydee]

Joe thanks for replying to the thread. To answer the question yes I most def re-calibrated after each firmware update and when I reverted back to the older version and I checked the throttle curve to make sure it was linear also. We haven't had the best weather here lately for more testing but I am hoping to update back to the newer firmware version next time out since I have been using the older firmware for a while now. I should be able to make a really good comparison soon.

[Mich. Maniac]

so we should be upgrading then? since these arent in air use what should throttle curve be? 0-25-50-75-100 right? Or do you mean just to make sure nothing crazy is goin on?

[Raydee]

Mike Normally they are set linear 0, 25, 50, 75, 100 but there was a issue where they were set to 0 all the way across the throttle curve. This only happened to me once though, just make sure yours is linear and it will be fine.

[Mich. Maniac]

cool, my link should be here soon, me thinks i will upgrade right away since im fighting heat issues

[Jeepers]

I see, you are all using the Castle Link USB Programming Kit, aright.

http://www.castlecreations.com/products/castle_link.html

thats correct!!

[Joe Ford]

Anyone else with the Castle Link found anything weird on the throttle curve when they plug into the Link?

[Joe Ford]

Bueller?

[Ub Hauled]

I think that's it for now "Ferris",
I haven't heard anything from the guys at the pond.

[rcflyer55]

I'm waiting on my CC Link I have a brand spankin new Hydra 120 so I'll see what happens.

[rcflyer55]

I think I figured it out. It is only a 2 place screen for voltage cutoff so I needed to use the right arrow. what a Pain in the A**

I set
cut-off voltage= custome 13.2
reverse type =no reverse
reverse throttle amount =12.5
Motor timing = normal
start power = normal
current limiter=enabled
Throttle curve = linear
break = linear
softwear V 1.3

I'm running a 10xl
hydra 120
4s 2P 4500mah Lipos
M445
on a Mean Machine

Do my setting look good???

[Mich. Maniac]

I have been too busy with house work, painting, building decks and such. had my link for a week now. should have time this evening to load it. Im sure there will be a million questions to follow.

[Raydee]

I am in the same boat, fixing up the outside of my house, doing some siding and painting. My poor boats haven't been in the water in ages :(

Anyway the only time I noticed the problem with the T-Curve is when I first updated the the 1.4v firmware. When I went back to 1.3v it is fine. I haven't tried 1.4v firmware since but I do plan to soon.

[Mich. Maniac]

ok, im loading the software now and first question is... is this like other esc in the fact that the esc must be powered on with main battery and hooked to motor to program?

[Mich. Maniac]

ok, my bad. Looks like only if you have removed red wire and use external bec do you need main battery power. So are we supposed to be upgrading I take it? I just saw the HV next to the new firmware on the website so I wasnt sure. Thanks

[Ub Hauled]

You can upgrade it, or if things are working jsut fine you can leave it as is like many of us are doing. If you are running the HV Hydras you need to power it regardless in order to program it.

[rcflyer55]

Mine came with Version 1.4 but I changed it back to 1.3

[Eyekandyboats]

Joe.
i have been having problems with my CC link.
fist off when my hydra was plugged into it the throttle went right to 0,0 almost as tho there was no forward throttle.
then upon updating it my motor ran warm and the boat ran much slower. I could not finish the second run because the esc blew up, when picking up the boat the esc was stone cold as well as the motor at operating temperature.
this was the first time the ESC was plugged into to the CC link.

[Ub Hauled]

Taylor,
people were having some problems with version 1.4 (throttle curve) ... I know it's too little too late but keep it on version 1.3 for now. Make sure to re-calibrate the ESC that you updated to the Tx after every software update.

[Joe Ford]

Was it acting as if the timing could have been off? Trying to get an idea of what you guys are dealing with. Did the throttle curve look normal? Let me know.

[Mich. Maniac]

I just hooked my hydra up and programmed with liink. VERY nice and user friendly. Soo much I ordered 2 more today. I havent updated to 1.4 but everything works fine and throttle curve is just as I set it with my controller. The only thing I dont like is that with stick type controller you cant have neutral at bottom of stick. it must be bumped up to allow calibration even with no reverse.

[Eyekandyboats]

Was it acting as if the timing could have been off? Trying to get an idea of what you guys are dealing with. Did the throttle curve look normal? Let me know.
yes throttle curve looked normal and timing was off.
with the normal timing is felt as though it was a advanced setting. got hotter then normal but didn't yield any faster speeds

[Joe Ford]

Thanks for the reply!

[Eyekandyboats]

hope it helps Joe.

[Mich. Maniac]

I know this is older but have some feedback. I had a hydra running 1.4 and all I got was problems with heat. Massive heat. Packs, esc, and motor. I advanced the timing and it picked up speed but just not worth chancing a blow. I went back 1.3 and everything is cool now and faster on normal timing. Just what I have found so far.

[Raydee]

Mike I ran my SuperSport 45 again for the first time since a ESC change a week ago. I had a CC Hydra 240 in the boat previously with the 1.3 firmware. The boat ran 59mph and came back with everything at about 125 degrees. Today I ran the hull with the only change being a CC Hydra 180HV and the boat would not run 54mph and the motor was hot after each run. THe 180HV will only run the 1.4 firmware and I can't revert to the 1.3 because it isn't even a option.

[ghostofpf1]

Have you guys that are stuck with 1.4 tried a lower timing setting to compensate and did that bring things back to previous levels ??
thanks
Ghost

[Raydee]

I haven't yet BUT I am pretty sure lowering the timing will make the hull even slower. It may lower the temps some but considering the timing is the same as it was with my Hydra 240 and its running this much hotter and 5mph slower tells me its a software problem.

[Ub Hauled]

I think we are missing a point here...
we are not supposed to keep trying to change settings (specially timing) in order to correct what was considered an "upgrade" to an older version to make it work properly.
An upgrade to me is supposed to fix bugs not create more and give us less performance.
I have met Joe Ford and he is always willing to solve Castle products bugs. He's probably talking to the tech guys about stuff he reads here and other forums to make a better product, isn't that right Joe? So let's post the symptoms (in details) so they can work it out.
My advise to the boating enthusiasts that are having problems is... go back to version
1.3 and reset the Tx to the ESC so you have a clean slate and a hassle free boat until this little software issue is resolved... unless you like to be frustrated at the pond.

[Raydee]

I wish that was possible with the newer HV controllers but right now it isn't. I am stuck with 1.4 unless I go back to my Hydra 240 and risk burning it up on 6s.

[Raydee]

Well I got some news from Joe Ford and he is looking into the problem.

[Ub Hauled]

Good deal Ray... hopefully it'll be fixed soon.

[Raydee]

Bumping this thread. UB, Mike, Taylor and anyone else that has experienced the problems with 1.4 can you please PM me.

[Raydee]

Big bump....4 months and counting.

[MarkF]

I am using the Hydra 240 HV 1.4 and I have no problems. I also run my timming on low. This has always been the best timming mode for all my boats and airplanes as well. Using normal or high timming only creates more heat, more amps and DOES NOT GO FASTER.. This goes for all motors, inrunners and outrunners. I'm surprised Joe that your not telling people to turn there timming down when they come on here and say they are running anything above low timming. I have been running electric saw boats for 9 years now and this has always worked the best for me.
Mark

[Boatman]

I run oval and no matter timing I could tell a difference. Running for 9 years you must at one time used a castle 120 since amps don't make speed. Did you change versions on those esc's? I'm not soo sure that the answer is to tell everyone just to keep on low timing because at this point I for one have tried this and it does nothing but still cause more heat. I simply am using the lower version and when told it is safe to use the higher version I will try it again. Good luck to all on this subject as it is trying when these units cost soo much. They are still quality in my book.

[MarkF]

Low timming is not a magic cure. If you still have heat then its your setup not the controller. The hot setups people run today dont like to run for very long before they heat up. In oval racing you are only out there for over 1 minute. When I oval raced [which I did for 4 years] if my setup wasnt a little on the hot side then that told me that I wasnt getting the most out of my setup. Buy the way amps do make speed I just prefer to get them with my props and not the timming mode. If you want to run for sport or longer run times then you have to keep propping down untill your not running hot. It doesn't matter which one you do you need to run the lower timming to get the best efficiency from the controller. At best you might get 1 or 2 mph with higher timming but your going to get it a greater expence and you risk hurting your batteries and controller. I guess if money is not a problem then test away at the higher timmings. For me, been there done that. So yes I stand buy my statemaent that everyone should run low timming. Maybe Joe Ford should give his thoughts on my statement.
Mark

[Fluid]

The "best" timing depends on the motor used and the amps drawn. To make a statement that low timing is always best can be misleading. Neu "D" wind motors certainly run best on the lowest timing, but that is because of their extremely low resistance. Neu "Y" wind motors do benefit performance-wise from more advanced timing - this is demonstrated on the GPS and at SAWs. Hacker motors give higher performance on higher timing - again confirmed on the SAW course. When I ran brushed motors I ran over 35 degrees of timing advance on my 05 SAW motors - anything less gave slower speeds.

The timing advance used has to match the time it takes to energize the motor coils, whether they are on the rotor or in the can the theory is the same. It takes a certain amount of time for each coil to energize and begin to pull the magents along, depending on the amp draw. Matching the timing advance to the amp draw and rpm will maximize the potential output of the motor. Note that most of what I have stated above is for maximum-effort racing applications of less then 2 minutes, not general sport running. Mark hit the mail on the head about run time - heat builds up and even most water cooling setups will not give much relief for a max-effort setup. Best to run a few mph slower with a milder setup and not risk burning down.

All that said, lower timing is usually - not always - safer in terms of overheating equipment. Joe at Castle doesn't really have to say much else, his instructions for the Hydra timing setting says it all. High timing is for maximum output on certain motors for short duration only. Low to medium timing is probably best for 90% of FE owners, so they are the timing modes that Castle recommends.




.

[Raydee]

Just to be perfeclty clear all my motors are set on low timing and the only change was the firmware installed. Again 30* hotter and 5-7mph slower for the same runtime and setup. We are going to do a good test this weekend on my buds cat with one controller on 1.03 and another on 1.04 and post the results. There is no doubt in my mine which firmware will run better.

[MarkF]

Leave it to Jay to come on here to find the loop holes in what I'm trying to tell sport boater and beginners. Most of the people who come on here are not saw racers. They are however the biggest offenders of burning up controllers from thinking they are going to see a big difference if they bump the timming up. Even oval racers are running boats with more power than they need, do they need to be told to turn there timming up as well? [really] So tell me Jay who's really going to benefit from running anything higher than low timming other than the handfull of saw racers around the country. Call Castle and see what timming they recomend on any motor. I have Hacker outrunners and Neus in airplanes and they all benefit and run better from the lower timming. I did say you will go a little faster with higher timming but not anough the eye can see. Sure the GPS sees it. The timming lights see it. Although I have burned several controllers as have many other saw racers trying to go from low to high timming with out changing anything else in the boat But do you think its wise to tell everyone on a public forum its better and you will go faster if you use high timming. I dont think it is or worth it unless your trying to get that last 2 mph your short to get the record at a saw event. These are only my opinions and observations from running electric boats and airplanes 13 years.

Mark

[Boatman]

Just to be perfeclty clear all my motors are set on low timing and the only change was the firmware installed. Again 30* hotter and 5-7mph slower for the same runtime and setup. We are going to do a good test this weekend on my buds cat with one controller on 1.03 and another on 1.04 and post the results. There is no doubt in my mine which firmware will run better.

That pretty much sums it up for me. I have not run anything but low timing am just CURIOUS as to why the newer or revised software runs hotter. I am and wont go against your recomendations Mark, I believe you 100% I am really just more curious as to why the upgrade causes more heat, well yes, and a slight variance in speed. Thats really all. Not looking for a record, just a answer to why it runs the controllers and motors differently. This for me isnt about the timing, but about the software.

[MarkF]

Not sure why the new software gets hotter. Are you running the boat exactley like you did before. Is it running wetter or are your lipos warmed up this time ? Is it hotter out side ? You would be surprised how much cooler everything runs when its cold out side and just the oposite when it gets hot out. Whenever a new software comes out it rarely means your boat is going to go faster. If 1.3 works then dont fix it. My hydra HV only has 1.4 and on my 10s hydro it works great and doesn't get hot. Dont figure

Mark

Mark

[Joe Ford]

Gentlemen...the following is what Castle's engineering department has found regarding the Hydra software versions. We spent quite a bit of time to test this.

"Timing on version 1.03 does not operate as intended. Normal timing is approximately 16 degrees. I would consider this too high for optimum performance on most motors. If the timing was changed via Castle Link the result would be as follows:

Low: 16.25 degrees
Normal: 16.25 degrees
Race: 10.75 degrees
Extreme: 16.25 degrees

If the timing was changed via stick programming and power was not removed directly after Motor Timing was set (in other words the user continued to set another setting such as Cutoff Voltage), then the timing was always set to 16.25 degrees.

If the user unplugged the unit directly after Motor Timing was set, then the user would get the same timing values as Castle Link would set. (16.25,16.25,10.75,16.25)

This obviously was not correct and was fixed in version 1.04. In version 1.04 the timing values are consistent if programmed via Castle Link or stick programming. The values are as follows:

Low: 4.75 degrees
Norm: 9 degrees
High: 12.75 degrees
Highest: 16.25 degrees

I also tested the units on the bench to determine if there were any other issues that may have resulted in excess heat. I ran a controller to steady state temperature using the version 1.03 firmware on default timing. Then repeated the test with version 1.04. As expected, the timing was different between the two. Also, the temperature and current measurements were consistent with timing.

The test running 1.03 firmware had a current draw of approximately 3 amps higher than 1.04. The steady state temperature of the 1.03 firmware test was approximately 3-4 degrees higher (as a result of the increased current).

There are two known 'issues' with the Hydra software.

Known issue 1: When updating from version 1.03 to 1.04 you MUST recalibrate. Failure to do so will cause the controller to not reach FULL THROTTLE (as indicated by the LED not going to a steady ON).

Known issue 2: When stick programming voltage cutoff on either version 1.03 or 1.04 the programming options are 4, 5, 6, 7.2, 9, 12. However, in the instructions, they are listed as 4,5,6,9,12 (7.2 was removed when the instructions were written for the Hydra line).

The customers who are using v1.04, and feel it has caused their boats to slow down and temps to increase are probably split into two camps.

1) Those who forgot to recalibrate their unit after updating. These guys would likely see a very dramatic decrease in speed as a result of not reaching full throttle. They also would probably see an increase in temperature because they were consistently running at 90% throttle.

2) Those who calibrated their unit and noticed a decrease in top end. This was probably accompanied by lower ESC and motor temperatures. This was caused by the timing being 'fixed'. You can see the numbers above, and if the user sets their timing to 'Highest' on v1.04, the unit should run exactly as it did using the v1.03 firmware."

Sorry it took so long to get this data guys...we needed to make sure the results were 100% correct.

[Joe Ford]

Let me know if you have any questions on the previous post...

[Darin Jordan]

Wow... That's amazing info. Explains a TON (well... for me anyhow)...

Thanks for the support Joe... Sounds like I can now upgrade to 1.04 without worrying.

OR, is there a 1.05 coming soon??

[Joe Ford]

We will have a v1.05 or 06, but not sure when. I haven't tested it yet...busy busy busy.

[Boatman]

Im sure I speak for some in saying we appreciate all the work you have to go through but where does the new info leave us? version 1.04 is correct but with running with 1.03 and having good results are we risking warranty issues?

[Ub Hauled]

Good info Joe,
Thanks

[Raydee]

I for one am looking forward to the new Firmware.

[Flying Scotsman]

I for one am looking forward to the new Firmware.

Ray, did you recalibrate as Joe describes for V1.4 and still have higher temperatures? I am still leerry of V1.4, and how did V1.3 get past QC with the timer errors? What type of motors are you running?
Plus, this can not be a cause for the HV controllers to self destruct on hook up.


Quote
2) Those who calibrated their unit and noticed a decrease in top end. This was probably accompanied by lower ESC and motor temperatures. This was caused by the timing being 'fixed'. You can see the numbers above, and if the user sets their timing to 'Highest' on v1.04, the unit should run exactly as it did using the v1.03 firmware."

Douggie

[Ub Hauled]

Doug, I think it does boil down to software, the components CC is using are top of the line and the circuits boards have been used for a while with success, leaves us with software (am I off?).
I sure hope they fix this little hiccup pronto... one thing is for sure, I am not happy with the "plug and burn" game of the ESCs and then have to pay for it... I also wrote my concern to their staff... I like CC speedos, but if I have to send in one controller every time I connect it to the main power that would be a bad investment on my side... obviously I am exaggerating.
You have raised great questions about their QC process and I have wondered that myself before, how is it that these big issues are not coming up on the final analysis prior to production?
Anyway, I wanted to end this post positively... I like that they were REALLY thorough and gave us the details on the findings, thanks again.

[Fluid]

The "plug and burn" issue goes back to the Barracudas, it isn't just a Hydra firmware issue. A couple years ago I watched two B125s smoke the very first time they were plugged in on the bench, and they were not plugged in backwards. Knock wood I haven't had that happen to me, so far at least.

But that issue is rare, even the HVs can be reliable in high-volt racing applications. This leads me to think that it may be a component issue - one of their suppliers may not have the best QA/QC program. But I still like the Castle products and while I have burned up my share, those instances were really my fault. Sadly, ESCs are expendible items, even the Hacker 77 and 99 and other Jeti controllers had a limited lifetime under hard use.

Bottom line - I am thankful that we have a US supplier like Castle who is interested in meeting our needs and providing excellent customer service.


.

[Darin Jordan]

Bottom line - I am thankful that we have a US supplier like Castle who is interested in meeting our needs and providing excellent customer service.

Well said Jay. I agree...

[Flying Scotsman]

Well said Jay. I agree...

I also agree, but their QA/QC department need to SMARTEN up.

Not to knock North American manufacturers, but we are screwing up big time on quality and R and D ...no new ideas.

Douggie

[Ub Hauled]

I know my post sounds... hmm, negative.
I am glad we have a US based ESC manufacture and if you
look under the hatch of my boats, it's all CC. I really do like them...
have you ever heard the term "tough love"? Well, that's kinda what I am doing, I wanna see them grow better, more powerful and reliable. If there were no complaints to make the developers look deep into the ESCs, we would never evolve... that goes for a lot of things in live.

[Flying Scotsman]

UB, no need to applogise. I also have CC products and what you state is very valid.
CC listen to your customers!

Douggie

[Darin Jordan]

CC listen to your customers!

Douggie


Douggie... They DID listen to their customers! And now they have the results of that support, and were GRACIOUS enough to publically post the info to their customers, risking this kind of ridicule in the process...

When GM, Ford, or Chrysler stand up and do the same, without the need for a court-order to do so, give me a call... :olleyes:

Again, Thanks for taking the time to support your product, Joe... You have many loyal customers out here who really appreciate the effort...


OH, and for the record... I've run B80s, B125s, and Hydra 240s, in every type of 2S and 4S application... and have run them VERY hard... All using the 1.3 firmware, set to either LOW or NORMAL timing (so basically EXTREME in this case)... I've yet to blow or burn one up. I did have ONE cap fail on an older (original version) B125, which Castle replaced with a newer B125 for the minimal repair costs, after a year of use...

Just some testimony to perhaps get people to do some self-reflection on exactly WHERE their CC ESC issues might be based... It's NOT always the ESC...

[Flying Scotsman]

Darin, this what blows me away also. I chose low with V1.3 for my Feaigo motors and no apparent problems???

Douggie

[Boatman]

Darin, this what blows me away also. I chose low with V1.3 for my Feaigo motors and no apparent problems???

Douggie

This is what I am talking about. So does that mean 1.3 on low setting is actually high. This would mean with good success that way the 1.04 firmware should be set on high... but wait! VOID WARRANTY if you do so? Sounds like the old "catch 22"!

[Flying Scotsman]

Originally Posted by Raydee
Dougie I did re-calibrate after each firmware change and the problem was and still is there. I won't use 1.04 EVER, sorry there is just something off with it and I can't afford to smoke another controller or fry a motor. I run all Neu motors ranging from a 1515 can to a 1527. I ran my Hydra HV 180 only a handful of times last season because EVERY time I ran it I was scared that my boat would end up on fire using the 1.04 firmware. I am looking forward to a new firmware so I can run my hydro next season.

Thanks Ray, you confirmed my suspicions.

[Ub Hauled]

I also used and abused BC80, BC125, H120, H240. I had no problems with my BC80 and BC125, rock solid. I have a 240 that will just not give up, on the other hand I had 2 others that gave me problems.
I had a H180HV and that did not work well for me. That brings me to the point I mentioned somewhere, the inconsistency. I think that if you are going to use your name on a product you need to make sure that it is 100% up to your standards, don't you agree? All I am asking is, tighten the QC a bit, the rest will solve itself in time. The flat fees for fixing are not that convenient anymore,
that's why I wanna make sure that things don't burn when on powering up anymore.

Flat Fee Repair Costs - Boat Products

25v Speed Controls
Hydra-120 - $105.00
Hydra-240 - $150.00

50v Speed Controls
Hydra HV-60 - $140.00
Hydra HV-120 - $172.50
Hydra HV-180 - $225.00
Hydra HV-240 - $270.00

I always start very gentle on a new ESC, just to make sure that there isn't a problem. Once trust is established I start going a little faster until I deem a good cruising point (temps vs. performance).

[Flying Scotsman]

Darin and Joe, we await your answer. :popcorn2:
Sorry, Mr.Smock, I took away your trademark :ohmy:

Douggie

[Flying Scotsman]

Darin and Joe, we await your answer. :popcorn2:
Sorry, Mr.Smock, I took away your trademark :ohmy:

Douggie

I guess not today, how about Jan/26/09

[Heath M]

This obviously was not correct and was fixed in version 1.04. In version 1.04 the timing values are consistent if programmed via Castle Link or stick programming. The values are as follows:

Low: 4.75 degrees
Norm: 9 degrees
High: 12.75 degrees
Highest: 16.25 degrees

I just downloaded the latest link 3.12 and firmware 1.04 and my timing values are as follows
Custom
Low: 0 degrees
Norm: 7 Degrees
High: 14 degrees
Highest:20 degrees.
I have 2 Neu motors a 1515 1Y and a 1515 2d can someone tell me which timing degree i should set these at for racing?
Also have a Feigao 2 pole motor so which timing should that be set at for racing?

Cheers
Heath

[Darin Jordan]

Custom
Low: 0 degrees
Norm: 7 Degrees
High: 14 degrees
Highest:20 degrees.



HOW are you seeing the actual timing numbers??


For Neus... generally, D-Winds don't respond to timing and Neu recommends these be timed at the LOW setting. Y-Winds will respond to timing...

[Heath M]

HOW are you seeing the actual timing numbers??


For Neus... generally, D-Winds don't respond to timing and Neu recommends these be timed at the LOW setting. Y-Winds will respond to timing...

The timing numbers aer shown on the link exactly how i've written them!
The Y motor i had set on Normal And the D wind i had set to race after starting off at low. Should i go back to low on the D wind and maybe high on the Y wind?

Heath

[Darin Jordan]

The timing numbers aer shown on the link exactly how i've written them!

Hmmm... must be on the newere interface... mine doesn't show numbers, only the "low, normal, race, extreme"... I'll have to upgrade.



The Y motor i had set on Normal And the D wind i had set to race after starting off at low. Should i go back to low on the D wind and maybe high on the Y wind?

Heath

I'm not sure what you "should" do, but I do know that Neu recommends the lower timing setting... That being said, and based on the info that with the 1.03 firmware I've had my timing set at "extreme" when the Link says it's on low... I've run all of my D-Wind motors for two years with these settings without issue...

Still, I'd set back to normal or even low in the future. This might explain why my 1515 1D would get hotter than my 1515 1Y, all else being equal...

[Flying Scotsman]

Now, I am really confused. WHAT ARE THE TIMING DEGREES.
Joe Ford says this is the timing on V1.4 and a customer states this what I see on new software :glare:

For extreme applications in the future for me, it will be MGM or Schulze

Douggie

[Heath M]

Darin,
I downloaded the new castle link v3.12 yesterday so don't know how old it is and it showed the actual degrees in numbers but they are different to the ones Joe stated..Maybe he'll chime in with WHY.
So according to v1.3 firmware i had my Y motor at normal 16.25 deg and my D motor at race 10.75 deg.
Guess it's back to the drawing board :doh:

Heath

[Darin Jordan]

For extreme applications in the future for me, it will be MGM or Schulze

Douggie

Right on... to each their own.

The thermal protection on those Schulzes is great... especially when they thermal on lap 4 of 5 and I race on to the win... :thumbup1:

[Flying Scotsman]

No big repair bill or smell. I will take the protection :beerchug:

Douggie

[Darin Jordan]

No big repair bill or smell. I will take the protection :beerchug:

Douggie

That's funny... I KNEW you were going to come back with that... :tiphat: BUT you must have missed the part where I said I FINISHED the race! r.e.: NO REPAIR BILL or SMELL... except for the sweet smell of victory! :thumbup:

Again, to each his own... Maybe someday, if I burn one down at some point, I'll rethink my position, but 4-years of successful CC ESC use isn't a bad string... I think I'll stick with them!

[Doug Smock]

Oh nevermind, IMHO,you guys are ALL right! :thumbup:
Thanks Joe!

Doug :popcorn2:

[Ub Hauled]

I think it's not worth arguing over personal preferences, why would you try to convince the next guy to like the same stuff you like... next thing you know he likes your girlfriend as well, LOL

[TRUCKPULL]

Gentlemen...the following is what Castle's engineering department has found regarding the Hydra software versions. We spent quite a bit of time to test this.

"Timing on version 1.03 does not operate as intended. Normal timing is approximately 16 degrees. I would consider this too high for optimum performance on most motors. If the timing was changed via Castle Link the result would be as follows:

Low: 16.25 degrees
Normal: 16.25 degrees
Race: 10.75 degrees
Extreme: 16.25 degrees

If the timing was changed via stick programming and power was not removed directly after Motor Timing was set (in other words the user continued to set another setting such as Cutoff Voltage), then the timing was always set to 16.25 degrees.

If the user unplugged the unit directly after Motor Timing was set, then the user would get the same timing values as Castle Link would set. (16.25,16.25,10.75,16.25)

This obviously was not correct and was fixed in version 1.04. In version 1.04 the timing values are consistent if programmed via Castle Link or stick programming. The values are as follows:

Low: 4.75 degrees
Norm: 9 degrees
High: 12.75 degrees
Highest: 16.25 degrees

I also tested the units on the bench to determine if there were any other issues that may have resulted in excess heat. I ran a controller to steady state temperature using the version 1.03 firmware on default timing. Then repeated the test with version 1.04. As expected, the timing was different between the two. Also, the temperature and current measurements were consistent with timing.

The test running 1.03 firmware had a current draw of approximately 3 amps higher than 1.04. The steady state temperature of the 1.03 firmware test was approximately 3-4 degrees higher (as a result of the increased current).

There are two known 'issues' with the Hydra software.

Known issue 1: When updating from version 1.03 to 1.04 you MUST recalibrate. Failure to do so will cause the controller to not reach FULL THROTTLE (as indicated by the LED not going to a steady ON).

Known issue 2: When stick programming voltage cutoff on either version 1.03 or 1.04 the programming options are 4, 5, 6, 7.2, 9, 12. However, in the instructions, they are listed as 4,5,6,9,12 (7.2 was removed when the instructions were written for the Hydra line).

The customers who are using v1.04, and feel it has caused their boats to slow down and temps to increase are probably split into two camps.

1) Those who forgot to recalibrate their unit after updating. These guys would likely see a very dramatic decrease in speed as a result of not reaching full throttle. They also would probably see an increase in temperature because they were consistently running at 90% throttle.

2) Those who calibrated their unit and noticed a decrease in top end. This was probably accompanied by lower ESC and motor temperatures. This was caused by the timing being 'fixed'. You can see the numbers above, and if the user sets their timing to 'Highest' on v1.04, the unit should run exactly as it did using the v1.03 firmware."

Sorry it took so long to get this data guys...we needed to make sure the results were 100% correct.


Joe would this apply to the CC125 also

Version 1.03
Low: 16.25 degrees
Normal: 16.25 degrees
Race: 10.75 degrees
Extreme: 16.25 degrees

Version 1.04
Low: 4.75 degrees
Norm: 9 degrees
High: 12.75 degrees
Highest: 16.25 degrees

Also I am using Castle link 3.05 right now.
Will the above timming setings change for V 1.03 and V 1.04 with the Castle link 3.12 ??

Larry

[Heath M]

Larry timing values change if you download castle link 3.12.
We need to find out why and what difference they'll make?

Heath

[TRUCKPULL]

Joe

I should have also asked if your tests were done with Castle Link 3.05 or 3.12 ??

Larry

[detox]

Going by Castles NEW chart I bet most everyone was outside the limits:

http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/neumotors-castle_boat_apps.pdf

Castle Hydra 120, Neu 1515 1y, 4s1p 4900mah, x442...ESC up in flames after 10 seconds while running in my 27" Rigger Insanity. I will use Hydra 240 with atleast 9800mah next time.

[G Doggett]

What an absolute cock-up by Castle.
So much for their R and D Dept. This should be rectified by a full recall of faulty product.
I wonder how many motors and ESCs have been destroyed in spite of careful owners setting their ESCs to the conservative ' low or normal ' position ?
This on top of the fiasco where the original fine print stated that there was no warranty if used with 4 or more lipos.
I'm afraid I now have very little confidence in Castle and will in future be buying ESCs from Europe or Asia.
I must however thank Joe Ford who appears to have been the only person at Castle to be interested in following up and getting to the bottom of this manufacturing/programming fault.
Graham.:rockon2:

[Punisher 67]

J.A.F.O.........................:tape:

Just a flippen Observer...................................... :popcorn2:

Great topic and good info

[Ub Hauled]

Peter, you must weigh a ton after eating all that popcorn! You are THE observer on forums... "the eye"... uncle Sam...
LOL

Ok, I downloaded software version 3.12 and will use firmware 1.04 with custom settings for timing.. that's right, you can now
use any timing (increments of 1.0) you can desire. Since I'll be chugging along a Miss Vegas with a 1521/1D, I though that
either zero or 1 as my timing should be appropriate. I wonder if since you setting the numbers up timing will be the number you typed in.

Cross your fingers, off to the lake...

[Punisher 67]

Hello Jan

I have to keep my mouth shut most times I have a habit of saying a little to much and them pulling the shoe back out of my mouth later :zip-up:

Good content here definitely stuff that should be addressed

[egneg]

My question is this - why do they recommend a 120a to replace a stock 45a on the sv and the bj - is it because their current esc's are WAY over rated?

[Boatman]

My question is this - why do they recommend a 120a to replace a stock 45a on the sv and the bj - is it because their current esc's are WAY over rated?

I wish CC would chime in here a little more while their product is being questioned. I have seen blackjack esc handle three times what it should purposely just to try and blow it. I would never do this with a hydra for cost reasons and I know it would blow. I feel we may be jumping the gun a bit on downing them for trying. Until the last decade Im sure most boats used brushed motors and heli,plane, were only using brushless technology which are far easier on esc's themselves. They (hopefully) will get it right but trial and error will be eminent until all bugs are worked out. Thats why Joe should be standing by for a bit after laying down that confusing info.

[raptor347]

The hydra 120 is the smallest marine esc they make.

[Ub Hauled]

Ok guys... I am back from the pond.
I ran my MV, 4s1p Elite 5000 35C, Hydra 240LV, NEU 1521/1D with an M447 prop.
I ran pretty much the whole packs and I have to say that there was NO OVERHEATING.
Here is what my Castle Link read:

13.2 Cutoff
Timing = 1
Start up = Low
the curves were default (straight)

the only thing was that I could not measure temps with my "gun" since I was bringing the boat back and lost a prop/shaft... so I jumped on the rescue boat and paddled out as quickly as I could (the MV was 20yards out) opened the hatch right there to check it manually... if I had to guess, temps were in the 90's at best... everything was barely warm after a couple of minutes run.
In conclusion, I think if you install the new Software vr 3.12 and run 1.04 (after recalibrating), set timing to 1 (I used "Custom" then clicked all the way down to "1") on a "D" wind, things should be fine. I will try using a "Y" wind some other time since I had no more time today.

[tylerm]

What an absolute cock-up by Castle.
So much for their R and D Dept. This should be rectified by a full recall of faulty product.
I wonder how many motors and ESCs have been destroyed in spite of careful owners setting their ESCs to the conservative ' low or normal ' position ?
This on top of the fiasco where the original fine print stated that there was no warranty if used with 4 or more lipos.
I'm afraid I now have very little confidence in Castle and will in future be buying ESCs from Europe or Asia.
I must however thank Joe Ford who appears to have been the only person at Castle to be interested in following up and getting to the bottom of this manufacturing/programming fault.
Graham.:rockon2:

Like i said on sunday to you Graham i'm sort of thinking the same thing. i won't buy another CC ESC, although i'm quite happy with my hydra 240 at this point:unsure:
I think ima get an etti cap bank and add a third water cooled cooling plate just to do all i can for it.
Maybe a castle link as well:olleyes:
Tyler.

[andym]

Tyler I for one would like to see a Etti cap bank on a CC esc. I think they are the week link and a bank like that can only help. Please give it a go and report on the cap temps without the bank and with the bank. Go on take one for the team mate, it wont hurt a bit!!

[Flying Scotsman]

Douggie is getting conufused again!! Software V3.12 is for the Mamba Monster controller. V3.05 was the latest for the Hydra series which included firmware V1.4 update. Are there problems in using the Mamba sotware with Hydra controllers,.

Joe Ford, PLEASE ADVISE.

Douggie

[Darin Jordan]

Douggie is getting conufused again!! Software V3.12 is for the Mamba Monster controller. V3.05 was the latest for the Hydra series which included firmware V1.4 update. Are there problems in using the Mamba sotware with Hydra controllers,.

Joe Ford, PLEASE ADVISE.

Douggie

Douggie,

The Castle link software you download from CC is for ALL of their controllers... It "knows" which controller you hook to it and gives you the appropriate options for that controller...

I downloaded V3.12 this weekend and like the additional detail it provides. Just have to sit down and reprogram all my ESCs now.

[Flying Scotsman]

Darin, thanks for that info. I am anal at installing new software. I have Microsoft to thank for that fear.
Thanks,

Douggie

[Darin Jordan]

Darin, thanks for that info. I am anal at installing new software. I have Microsoft to thank for that fear.
Thanks,

Douggie

No problem... Castle seems to have their software install utility working great. It uninstalls any previous versions and installs the new version and it's all pretty much transparent to the use... Just let it do it's thing and it seems to work great.

[Ub Hauled]

Not only does it install and unistall the software but if for some reason the install is not successful it rolls-back all the info to leave it as it was prior to the install. I had that happen to me, since I have Vista on the PC I use for the Castle link I had to jump to a couple of hoops to get it going... nothing too bad, just extra hoops.

[Darin Jordan]

since I have Vista on the PC I use for the Castle link I had to jump to a couple of hoops to get it going... nothing too bad, just extra hoops.

I'd be interested in more details on this, since I'm about to give my wife a new Dell Laptop with Vista on it for her Birthday... I'll, of course, need to borrow it for important events like testing at the lake, so I'll need to install the Link on it...

[Ub Hauled]

I'd be interested in more details on this, since I'm about to give my wife a new Dell Laptop with Vista on it for her Birthday... I'll, of course, need to borrow it for important events like testing at the lake, so I'll need to install the Link on it...

Darin I know what you do for a living so this should be a piece O' cake for you. It's easy stuff for anyone though...
the installer told me that there was a file that could not be used so the whole things failed, it rolled me back to the original state. I tried first to install it as a "Win Pro Service Pack 2" and it still would not go, then I tried to "run it as an admin" and
that did the trick. Easy, eh!?
BTW, I have a Dell as well... fairly new, we got it earlier this year for my wife.

[Punisher 67]

I have 3 dells including the little 9 inch for my mill programing and eagletree at the pond thats in transit right now , by far most dependable machines I have ever used..................:rockon2:

[Ub Hauled]

I agree Peter, the next best thing you can have, BESIDES A MAC, is a Dell, great support dept.

[Flying Scotsman]

I purchase a new Dell to replace an old Delll about 4 months ago. Nothing but problems. They stepped up to the plate and replaced the unit...no problems since. I run XP with Service Pack 3. I will not touch VISTA after talking to some IT guys. Plus much of my existing software would not operate with Vista
Darin, I reconfigured one of my CC ESCs Hydra 120 and will test with an Eagle Micro Logger, as soon as it warms up.
N.B. I had to reinstall the software twice before the ESC would re-calibrate correctly and with a steady LED on full throttle
P.S. Jan my settings are the same except for custom timing and cutoff voltage. I programmed 3 for timing and 16.5 cutoff(5S)

Douggie

[TRUCKPULL]

Now here is the big question
A lot of us ran V 1.03 software because a lot of people said that V1.04 made things hot.
We now find out that with V1.03 timing settings were actually
Low – 16.25 degrees
Normal – 16.25 degrees
Race – 10.75 degrees
Extreme – 16.25 degrees

If you used the V1.04 timing settings were.

Low – 4.75 degrees
Normal – 9 degrees
Race – 12.75 degrees
Extreme – 16.25 degrees

For NEU motors we were told to use LOW with “D” winds and Normal with
“Y” winds

Now with the V3.12 castle link, do we still have a chouse between V1.03 and V1.04??
What are the timing settings in DEGREES for racing with the NEU “D” and “Y” winds??
My setups before were as we see now 16.26 degrees for both “D” and “Y” winds.

Larry

[Flying Scotsman]

Larry, for the Hydra 120. I was given the choice of V1.3 or 4. The HV series may not allow this???

Douggie

[Ub Hauled]

Larry I believe you get to chose between "Firmware 1.03 or 1.04",
since you know that your motors were running 16.26 degrees, now all you'd have to do
is chose the same settings on the new Software version since the Firmwares are the same.
I think people are getting a bit confused as far as Software version and Firmware version....

The "Software" is the application one has to open to see all the options and change them...
The "Firmware" is what is inside the chips that does all the math for you to be able apply these options.
If someone has a better explanation please go right ahead...

So, when one is saying Software remember that that is the Interface and when someone says Firmware, remember it's invisible.
The problem that is occurring right now is that the selections showing on the Interface are not corresponding to what the Firmware is telling the ESC to do...
I hope that I could help someone with this.

Douggie, I believe you are right, the Hydra HV series does not support Firmware version 1.03

[Joe Ford]

Geez guys...I was at a show with no internet connection. I'm not leaving you hanging, I'm not running away, not going to ignore you...I was busy. I'm here now, ask away.

Darin...thank you for answering some questions while I was gone...it is appreciated. :)

I will talk with the engineers about the high timing voiding warranty situation. We'll see what they say...not my decision. :(

Castle is very sorry for any frustration this debacle may have caused any of you. We knew some people would be upset but chose to just put it out there. We could have just fixed it, released 1.05/06, and not said another word. But that's not the way we do business...if we mess up we admit to it. So our apologies gents.

[TRUCKPULL]

Thank You JOE
Castle is great, not many companies would give us this much information.

I downloaded the New Castle Link V3.12
Every thing is good, we can still switch between V1.03 and V1.04

I talked to Steve at NEU motors, we all know that he said before that the
"D" winds should be set to LOW
"Y" winds set to Normal

Now with V1.04 we can set the degrees to any thing we want.

Steve said to set the "D" winds at 0 to 4.75 degrees with V1.04
The 16.25 degrees that we had before with the V1.03 would not efect the motor, seeing that they ("D" winds) don't respond to timing changes.

The "Y" winds should be set at 9 to 15 degrees with V1.04

Larry

[Flying Scotsman]

Geez guys...I was at a show with no internet connection. I'm not leaving you hanging, I'm not running away, not going to ignore you...I was busy. I'm here now, ask away.

Darin...thank you for answering some questions while I was gone...it is appreciated. :)

I will talk with the engineers about the high timing voiding warranty situation. We'll see what they say...not my decision. :(

Castle is very sorry for any frustration this debacle may have caused any of you. We knew some people would be upset but chose to just put it out there. We could have just fixed it, released 1.05/06, and not said another word. But that's not the way we do business...if we mess up we admit to it. So our apologies gents.

Thank you Joe for your concern. I know we all mistakes but how did those wrong timing values get by engineering QC. No stone throwing ...just asking and thanks for your honesty.

Douggie

[Darin Jordan]

Thank you Joe for your concern. I know we all mistakes but how did those wrong timing values get by engineering QC. No stone throwing ...just asking and thanks for your honesty.

Douggie


Honestly Douggie, and with all due respect, I don't see how this is any of our business... It's a privately run company that will (and SHOULD) handle it's internal affairs internally... I'm sure they want to fix their processes to prevent this in the future... They've fixed the current issue and put it out there for us to use... that's the part that matters, and is our business...

Hopefully they come up with a fix for the "plug-in and pop" problem with the HV series as well...

[Joe Ford]

I test some of the software features...the ones that don't require an EE degree...cutoff voltages, etc. Engineering does the rest...timing, PWM, current limiting. Unfortunately, engineering didn't realize the error until recently and are not sure how the timing values changed from the previous version. You can rest assured it won't happen again.

[Flying Scotsman]

True Darin, but it worries me. As I have had to explain to customers that their $300,000 equipment is not working, due to bad servo engineering. Sales guys hate product problems and the customer stating we are going to sue you for lost production.

Douggie

[Joe Ford]

From the engineering dept. If 16.25 degrees was working for you, we will cover you under warranty with v1.04 on high timing.

[AntronX]

Hi Joe, thank you for visiting this forum and answering questions. We are lucky to have an American based company with real tech support like this. I am about to get my 6th Castle controller, and I never had one fail on it's own.

[tylerm]

Tyler I for one would like to see a Etti cap bank on a CC esc. I think they are the week link and a bank like that can only help. Please give it a go and report on the cap temps without the bank and with the bank. Go on take one for the team mate, it wont hurt a bit!!

Yea except for the wallet, stupid NZ dollar lol. $24.95 US= $44.70 NZ.
Ironic though, chinky insurance on a US made product:doh:
Won't make a big difference for me, i'm only running a 9XL(although i still can cook things with it:thumbup1:) and just stuffed the bearings. Will have to do an order for a cap bank and some bearings.
I get paid on thursday so we'll see how i look then.
Props to Joe for coming on here though, great to have someone from castle to answer questions.
Tyler.

[Steven Vaccaro]

Joe thanks for stepping up and telling the truth. I have dealt with many software companies in the past that have always denied there were problems with a product they supported, then all of a sudden after a software update the problem disappeared!

As far as warranties go, there have been very few claims made by my customers that Castle has not covered. You wont find a better company out there that backs their products the way Castle Creations does.

[TRUCKPULL]

Right on Steven.


Larry

[Boatman]

After taking allot of time and reading this over again, I think my money is with Castle ESC's. My setups may need changing but for that heard set warranty, how can you go wrong. Thanks for the Explanation and if you ever need someone to test new equipment let me know! :lol:


Gentlemen...the following is what Castle's engineering department has found regarding the Hydra software versions. We spent quite a bit of time to test this.

"Timing on version 1.03 does not operate as intended. Normal timing is approximately 16 degrees. I would consider this too high for optimum performance on most motors. If the timing was changed via Castle Link the result would be as follows:

Low: 16.25 degrees
Normal: 16.25 degrees
Race: 10.75 degrees
Extreme: 16.25 degrees

If the timing was changed via stick programming and power was not removed directly after Motor Timing was set (in other words the user continued to set another setting such as Cutoff Voltage), then the timing was always set to 16.25 degrees.

If the user unplugged the unit directly after Motor Timing was set, then the user would get the same timing values as Castle Link would set. (16.25,16.25,10.75,16.25)

This obviously was not correct and was fixed in version 1.04. In version 1.04 the timing values are consistent if programmed via Castle Link or stick programming. The values are as follows:

Low: 4.75 degrees
Norm: 9 degrees
High: 12.75 degrees
Highest: 16.25 degrees

I also tested the units on the bench to determine if there were any other issues that may have resulted in excess heat. I ran a controller to steady state temperature using the version 1.03 firmware on default timing. Then repeated the test with version 1.04. As expected, the timing was different between the two. Also, the temperature and current measurements were consistent with timing.

The test running 1.03 firmware had a current draw of approximately 3 amps higher than 1.04. The steady state temperature of the 1.03 firmware test was approximately 3-4 degrees higher (as a result of the increased current).

There are two known 'issues' with the Hydra software.

Known issue 1: When updating from version 1.03 to 1.04 you MUST recalibrate. Failure to do so will cause the controller to not reach FULL THROTTLE (as indicated by the LED not going to a steady ON).

Known issue 2: When stick programming voltage cutoff on either version 1.03 or 1.04 the programming options are 4, 5, 6, 7.2, 9, 12. However, in the instructions, they are listed as 4,5,6,9,12 (7.2 was removed when the instructions were written for the Hydra line).

The customers who are using v1.04, and feel it has caused their boats to slow down and temps to increase are probably split into two camps.

1) Those who forgot to recalibrate their unit after updating. These guys would likely see a very dramatic decrease in speed as a result of not reaching full throttle. They also would probably see an increase in temperature because they were consistently running at 90% throttle.

2) Those who calibrated their unit and noticed a decrease in top end. This was probably accompanied by lower ESC and motor temperatures. This was caused by the timing being 'fixed'. You can see the numbers above, and if the user sets their timing to 'Highest' on v1.04, the unit should run exactly as it did using the v1.03 firmware."

Sorry it took so long to get this data guys...we needed to make sure the results were 100% correct.

[Joe Ford]

You guys who are running the new firmware experiencing any issues? Let me know...just like to get updates. No way for me to test...all the ponds are frozen. :(

[Ub Hauled]

Joe, with the Hydra 120 I am experiencing no issues with the new SW and FW.

[properchopper]

I'm hoping those of you with sharper minds could bottom line the whole shebang for my poor terminally bewildered brain. Here's what I'm running :

Hydra 240, V1.3, set to "normal", 4S2P, Neu 1515 1Y. 33 " DF mono.Runs perfectly, temps for 1 mile racing are just fine. [ A while ago, I programmed V 1.4 with the set of problems that were expected. Back to V 1.3 as above]

Same as above, 8XL, 26 " cat.

Should I change to V 1.4 with the new settings now disclosed or just leave things put ? What would I gain by changing/updating ? That's what I really want to know !

I hate to admit that I'm just a little puzzled :unsure: , but maybe someone could untangle this for me.

[D. Newland]

Joe-I've updated all my CC controllers to 1.04, but have only had 1 on the water. LV 240 running a Neu 1515 1Y. It ran fine and looked every bit as good as 1.03, but I did not get specific temp readings. All I know is nothing was warm.

However, I did stumble a bit on the radio re-calibration. Once I got that down, the ESC would hit full throttle.

Tony-IMO if you keep the 1Y motor and you're currently happy with your amp draw, speed and temps, you may be fine as is. But, if you go to a D motor or some other setup that requires less timing, you'll need 1.04. If you update, just go through the instruction book again about re-calibration of the radio.

I updated. Because I'm anal.

[Ub Hauled]

Tony, get the latest "Link application" and install Firmware 1.04...
after that RECALIBRATE THE ESC WITH THE Tx again (like the first time you use it: Full throttle and hold, then Full break, etc, etc...)
That's all it takes.

[properchopper]

[QUOTE=D. Newland;72320] But, if you go to a D motor or some other setup that requires less timing, you'll need 1.04. /QUOTE]

:doh: That may why , when I installed a 1521 1.5D, it was a slug with high battery temps. Ouch.

[TRUCKPULL]

Joe

The only problem that I ran into was:

I changed one of my CC125’s over to V-4

I could not get it to recalibrate to the radio.(would not recognize full brake)

Changed it back to V-3 and recalibrated it to the radio on the first try.

Changed it back to V-4 again, then checked all radio settings, I found that I had the brake set to 50%. Reset the brake to 100% and tried the recalibration. It worked on the first try.

Why would the radio calibrate with the brake set at 50% with V-3, and not V-4???


Larry

[Flying Scotsman]

Tony, 1.04 is great as long as you recalibrate. If the ESC green light is blinking on full throttle...it should be steady...recalibrate as Joe has described.

Douggie

[Ub Hauled]

[QUOTE=D. Newland;72320] But, if you go to a D motor or some other setup that requires less timing, you'll need 1.04. /QUOTE]

:doh: That may why , when I installed a 1521 1.5D, it was a slug with high battery temps. Ouch.

Do it, Do it, Do it, Do it, Do it, Do it, Do it, Do it,
no pressure...
:sarcasm1: