My attempt at building the Mean Machine

[tlandauer]

Ok, I got hooked on this cat because of a thread regarding the MM. I am most impressed with what Dana did with his build, my attempts here are what I really liked about his build starting from the hatch.
My V1 hatch had to be sanded a bit for it to fit:86328. I also reinforced the sides with FG tape:86329
I am using Carbon fiber rod from my heli as studs from the hatch going into the hull:86330, will JB Weld the studs.
As for the receptical: I got 5/32 K&S brass tube, cut two 30mm tube and crimped the ends and sealed with solder, CA'ed in the hull for position and will Epoxy from inside to make it strong and water prove.86331,86332.

[tlandauer]

Here is how it looks from the lip of the hull.86333
BTW, I want to thank everyone who has been so kind to give me advice on the other thread. I am always grateful for any advice and criticism. Thanks to CPGISE for posting his set up.

[dana]

Hey man good to see you got a thread going, I'll be watching your progress.
Btw the center of my strut to the center of my rudder is 57 mm -)

[tlandauer]

Thanks Dana, I appreciate your help and encouragement! It will be slow though, too much work, but I guess work is good for a musicaian, lol...

[tlandauer]

Very slow progress, I only had time to do some planning, drilled some holes for the stut and rudder, it was a bit tricky since the top halve seam line at the transom is not even and one can't get a good squared measure. I used two bubble level to make sure the mounting is squared.86914.
I was debating a hatch lock system, I wanted to be able to lock the hatch from the back. Finally settled on the AQ lock, a bit flimsy but seem to be easier than the knob type to deal with. Used some ply wood to jack up the recepticle so the holes on the hatch can be in the center of the lip.869158691686917

[tlandauer]

Now I have some questions, what is the best angle for the motor? I know some fixed mounts are bent at 15*, I tried that but the motor shaft points to the floor too near the collet, was afraid there would not be enough room for the stuffing tube to come up the floor for a secure mount, changed to 12.5* and it allowed a bit more room, still, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Also, where is the best point to drill on the floor?, I saw picutures that the stuffing tube exits the floor at the last step ride pads. Am I in the ball park? 8691886919

[tlandauer]

Well, here is what I have done so far:8715487155.
I tried to cut the hole straight and elongate it or slant it to avoid open space, did both on a ply-wood to see which is better for me personally. My only concern for the slanted hole is that when the tube goes thru the slant "shaft", there is not alot of chance for any epoxy to grab the tube, whatever is on the floor would have to be extra strong, thinking of soldering some metal tabs to collar the tube as well as for the epoxy to grab the tube. 87156
In order to minimize guess work, I use this protractor and drew various angles for the tube to have an idea of the profile. 8715787158

[justski]

Hi tlandauer i just wanted to tell you what i used for what you call the receptical to hold your hood down in front it i used Brass Compression Fittings - Insert they come in all sizes and worked great 87159.....

[tlandauer]

I didn't know this existed,:frusty: as you can see what I did , I just used brass tube and cut them and sealed one end. I originally wanted to use .22 Long Rifle rim fire bullet casings :buttrock: and thought that might be a good conversational topic, but, did not have time to go to a legal place to fire some bullets!:spy:

[justski]

22 casings would of worked too.where i live i would of just reached out my window and fired a few off..lol..but ya you can get what i was talking about the brass inserts at any hardware store and most auto stores there cheep

[tlandauer]

Thanks! I will look into that for my next build! Yeah, if I did what you could do, I won't be able to finish this boat, will be a while before I can do anything .:roflol:

[justski]

i dont know if you put them in yet but i used JB Weld Waterweld White Epoxy Putty 87160 worked great strong and you can move them around to make sure they fit good studs befor they setup ....i put my studs and receptical in with it and all 4 at the same time and just let them set up

[tlandauer]

Yes, I did put them in using West System epoxy mixed with milled Fiber Glass filler to beef it up. I will post some pictures tomorrow. I shall remember this product, I came across it but it is always far better to hear it from a first hand experience. Thanks, man.

[dana]

looks good so far, just remember, you want that strut nuetral and up as high as it will go. there should be 3/16 - 1/4 gap between the bottom of the strut and the table when you have the boat sitting on it.
so you want to bend your stuffing tube according to that height

[dana]

oh and make sure you sand the heck out of the carbon floor before trying to glue anything. dont ask how i know lol

[tlandauer]

Dana, thanks so much for the heads up! :thumbup:I was just wondering about the strut height.

[tlandauer]

I soldered two tabs on the stuffing tube so the epoxy will grab better, I am sure this is totally unecessary: it is also why I made the "TO BE IGNORED LIST" by Fluid!:roflol::roflol::roflol:
87252 I put the tube in this board so I can get the right angle when soldering.
8725387254
I will sand the floor real well, I did sand it today but the woven floor is hard to scuff, the higher weaves get sanded but the lower ones are still intact, was afraid to damage it but I think needs more scuffing though.

[justski]

its going to be hell when you have to replace it.. i put a small piece of the next size bigger tube in so if i do bend it it will just slide out with out having to cut it out

[tlandauer]

Thanks, I began thinking just the same later, there is a reason why nobody does that even if it does add some strength to it.
Guess will bent anothere tube ...
:beerchug:

[Rumdog]

Looks good! There is no reason you should ever have to replace the stuffing tube. I wouldn't worry about it.

[justski]

I'm sorry i know i am new to this my self.. but there is no way your going to tell me that nothing will ever happen to the that thin tubing ...i read in a lot of threads of people replacing them for one reason or another

[tlandauer]

Looks good! There is no reason you should ever have to replace the stuffing tube. I wouldn't worry about it.
Thanks Rumdog, I really appreciate your opinion, for me that is reasuring .
I know people replace it from time to time , however, my original thoughts were that if it is build correctly the tube should last a long time. In my case I never race and seldom have time to over run a boat. Unless I sell it, guess I will have to give next buyer a discount. :roflol:

[tlandauer]

@ Justski, like i said, you are right. There is a REASON why I am on Fluid's infamous list, ( don't get me wrong, I respect him a great deal!) however, to make his list I feel honored. My problem is that I like to over build things and sometimes at the expense of practicality.

[justski]

LOL...i understand ..lol..i over build too...i been over building for years and sometimes i get bit in the A$$ but i keep on doing it .lol you can see the picture of my bike some people say i did it wrong but no one has ever beat me in a race yet 103mph in 660ft on ice and i haven't hit the N.O.S yet..LOL

[jaike5]

IMO the stuffing tube looks like its more of right angle as apossed to a gentle curve or maybe its just the pic.

[tlandauer]

Thanks for pointing it out, I think it is ok, picure has something to do with it, part of the reason is that the sponsons are shalow, I am told that the strut needs to be high, so there is not much room for a "rounded" curve as we normally would really prefer.

[Rumdog]

I've built at least 30 boats. Never have I had to replace a stuffing tube due to wear.
Dana is right.. It will be most stable with that strut up as high as you can get it. A slight "S" bend in the tube will also help to get it lined up nicely with the strut.

[tlandauer]

I've built at least 30 boats. Never have I had to replace a stuffing tube due to wear.
Dana is right.. It will be most stable with that strut up as high as you can get it. A slight "S" bend in the tube will also help to get it lined up nicely with the strut.
Thanks for your input and reassurance, I hate to even entertain the thought of replacing the stuffing tube, it is a messy job anyway you look at it, IMO.
I know one of your builds personally, :rockon2: Love that DF 26, that wet tube design for me is a technical tour-de-force. I hope eventually oneday I can do a build just like that!

[tlandauer]

My build has come to a screeching halt because of lack of parts! :frusty: Thought I had a aluminum servo mount but guess I had used it for a BlackJack rebuild. :doh:
Meanwhile, here is what I have done so far: I used JB Weld to secure the stuffing tibe. After much thought I decided to leave the metal tabs there for added support. That is the reason for the rather large circle, used a small dia. fuel line to form a ring , the hair bands that girls use were too small. 87401.
I was leaning on the Etti motor mount till I tried to drill a roll of holes on the bottom edge "a la" Leo mount without any success. Went back and took a second look at the fixed angle aluminum mount. The stuffing tube lined up perfectly and I was confident enough to take a dive for it.
The floor is not exactly even given the CF that was reinfored from AeroMarine, I wanted to have total separate control of mounting the mount and then having the means to align it to the stuffing tube, along the way to make it strong. Here is what I have come up with:87402 ,87403.

[tlandauer]

87404,87405, 87406

[lenny]

That looking real good Tim,:tiphat:
I have one That needs a lot of tlc to build some day.
This thread will help me down the line and others to.:beerchug:

[tlandauer]

:tiphat: Thanks Lenny, I am learning, and I know you are very creative too, so I can't wait to see your build!

[TheShaughnessy]

Not that it matters cause you already installed it but I've crashed my boats more then a couple times and never had the stuffing tube get damaged.

[tlandauer]

Not that it matters cause you already installed it but I've crashed my boats more then a couple times and never had the stuffing tube get amaged.
Thanks, I am sure I over did it, since this is my second build, I have to accept a learning curve, you guys have been a great help, I am enjoying the building as well as the learning experience! :banana:

[tlandauer]

Got the servo mount, measured the rod and installed a 1/4" brass tube as rod sleeve. The stuffing tube is rigid and I tried to adjust the strut , it is good to see NO flex from the floor. The tube has enough flexibility to go either way.87843
BTW, the extra "floor " is a prototyping board from www.twinind.com , in retrospect, I should have cut it down, it is too large. This is very strong stuff, much better quality than the Radio Shack ones.8784487845
Inside transom, with water inlet installed:87846

[tlandauer]

I had to shorten the wires from the ESC, and make a "T" shaped parallel plug. Much of my ideas are inspired from Dana's build!8784787848
The boat is 80-85% finished, I need to paint the windshield, have NO idea how, also, one of the BEST features of Dana's boat is his sub hatch, I got to admit I will have a hard time duplicating that feat!
Here are some pictures as of now:87849 87850

[justski]

looking good

[tlandauer]

Some more:87851 87852 87853 87854.
Any advices and/or input will be appreciated.
Also, if you happen to read this, Dana, do you have trouble with your Tactic Radio? I hate to drill a hole for the antenna, but the hull is lined with CF, I am not so sure what to do? I have either Tactic or Spektrum standing by.
Thanks for looking, guys.

[carlcisneros]

Tlandauer;
looking good guy.

suggestion,,,,,,,, replace the rudder push rod with one with an "S" bend in it instead of a "Z" bend.
The S bend is stronger and won't break like the Z bend CAN (at times after a while) at the 90degree bends.

This is just a suggestion.

[tlandauer]

looking good
Thanks, justski! hopefully I will be putting the finishing touches on soon, in for a busy spell though.

[tlandauer]

Tlandauer;
looking good guy.

suggestion,,,,,,,, replace the rudder push rod with one with an "S" bend in it instead of a "Z" bend.
The S bend is stronger and won't break like the Z bend CAN (after a while) at the 90degree bends.

This is just a suggestion.
OK! Thanks for the great advice! :rockon2:

[lenny]

Looking good,
But that rudder look really long in the picture.
Windshield, Just get a decal from monojeff or check with Make-a-Wake he has done some nice painted ones.

[tlandauer]

:tiphat: Lenny,
Yes, I have to trim it sometime later, I read from a post by Properchopper that the general practice is to leave 2.5 inch below the sponson, and that is just below the water pick up hole. With this length I will be dragging the entire bottom of the lake!:roflol:
I will ask Monojeff, thanks for the reminder!

[justski]

Thanks, justski! hopefully I will be putting the finishing touches on soon, in for a busy spell though. i am done with mine but i have to wait till spring to run mine .well i am going to take it all back apart and get it painted then i am done ..so i guess i am going to build another one

[tlandauer]

I got the sub hatch done ( turned out by far the most challenging aspect of the build :frusty: ) I got lazy and did not want to trim a bottle , found some soap mold from a craft/hobby store. The front just clears below the outter hatch dome (:Praying:) I used a combination of Goop E-6000 and Poly-Zap by Pazer---they work on Lexan, but dries faster than the Goop and remain flexible as well.88137.
painted the windshield: first primer, then Graphite Mica metallic, both from Dupli-Color : 88138, 88139, 88140.
It's been a blast to build this one, thanks for all the great advices and inputs!

[dana]

Looks good man. I had no problems with the tactic. Also you might leave the long rudder, it helps keep it from hooking in the turns. Which rudder is it?

[tlandauer]

Thanks Dana!
I am glad the Tactic has no problem, my rudder is this: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ros-21-rudder, when you say "hooking" do you mean the transom takes a dive or the bow dives? I am a bit foggy with the meaning of "hooking".
Did you use the same rudder and if yes, did you cut it down? I am just afraid the length will increase the chance of hitting some drift wood or turtle.

[dana]

I mean it can spin out in the turns. I cut mine down, and every now and then it hooks. Nothing bad. I have the same rudder you do. In hind sight I would have left it long or cut a bit less off it

[tlandauer]

I mean it can spin out in the turns. I cut mine down, and every now and then it hooks. Nothing bad. I have the same rudder you do. In hind sight I would have left it long or cut a bit less off it
Thanks for the heads-up, I always thought too much rudder causes spin-outs. :noidea:

[KartRacer]

Tlandauer
The long rudder works great on my DF Pirate, but I did catch a rock under water and had some minor damage. Hoping to get it back in the lake Saturday.
Water levels in my area are extremely low, need rain badly. I had an area dug out in the lake shore to provide a launch area so I don't have to walk out in the water to get deep enough for rudder clearance.
If we get some rain, ok a bunch of rain then lake levels will return to normal and problems go away. Until then I have to stay clear of the shore line by 20 feet!

[dana]

Thanks for the heads-up, I always thought too much rudder causes spin-outs. :noidea:
If you do cut, only take an inch off