MHZ Gecko setup

[Flyin Okie]

Hello all,

This is my first post here and I've thoroughly enjoyed the info I've come across so far.
I have an MHZ Gecko that I've had for a number of years now and it never did run quite right. I have recently purchased a micro drive hardware setup (ose-80972) and cable and wish to install it, but am unsure about how to go about it really. (Can you say REALLY new at this?) It was the ready to run variant I purchased and don't want to damage it if at all possible.

Thanks in advance,

Travis

[damfurst]

The Gecko is my favorite boat that I own. Is the cable long enough to reach the motor through the stinger on the micro drive hardware? How well does the stinger match the tube already in the boat? Do you have pictures of the boat as it now is and your new hardware? They would be a big help for anyone here.

[Flyin Okie]

The cable is plenty long enough. Will have to trim it some. Will get some photo tomorrow.

Ok, here are a few photos of what I have so far.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/15/zu8era7a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/15/aqy3y9yq.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/15/3aduta3a.jpg

[Flyin Okie]

I checked the runout on the coupler on the motor and found it to be .005", is that excessive? Though I do want to go to a brushless eventually.

Travis

[damfurst]

.005" doesn't sound excessive to me. Looks like you'll have to do some cutting on the tube. Does the front of the stinger match up with the tube or is it to big or too small?

[Flyin Okie]

The stinger is on the large side compared to the strut, but unsure just how much. May have to make a standoff as well once trimmed.
Also curious as to whether a set screw would work alright vs a collet type with the flex cable.

[damfurst]

You'll probably have to take some small pieces of brass tube to adapt to the stinger.
As far as whether a set screw coupler would work yes it would. That was how mine came originally with the flex cable that it came with. I've since converted over to a 2mm shaft with a bearing mod and 4mm thread. A collet type would probably be best for the flex cable.

[Flyin Okie]

Yours came with a flex cable? Mine came with a 2mm shaft and a threaded prop. But I trimmed the solid shaft. Likely the cause of my problems back then.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/16/adujy7e8.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/16/agyzume8.jpg

[damfurst]

Mine also came with the strut and rudder shown in the pictures. My setup is a little different inside the boat as well. I believe that my motor mount is farther forward in the hull. Don't know why such a differance. I burnt the brushed motor and esc up awhile ago so went to brushless instead. I now have a 3300kv motor outrunner in mine.

86573

86574

86575

[Flyin Okie]

Seeing as mine doesn't have the kickup rudder that yours does leads me to think mine is an older edition. I ordered mine through MHZ USA, did you also? Am thinking of removing the original stuffing tube and making one from brass tubing and keeping the original motor mount.

[damfurst]

Yes I got mine from Mhz USA about 3 years ago. It may be easier to line things up if you do remove the original stuffing tube. Have you thought about moving your motor mount?

[Flyin Okie]

Haven't thought about removing the motor mount, but the original stuffing tube I have as I'd be able to get a new one to make the curve between motor and prop.

Also looked and found that I have had it for over 7 years now. No wonder the changes.

[Flyin Okie]

Any good ideas on how to get through the epoxy on the motor mount and the Testors type cement under the servo?http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/18/gabu2ysu.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/18/4uda7uga.jpg

[damfurst]

I don't know what would work on either of those. Maybe post a question on the boating questions and answers.

[Flyin Okie]

Ok, some parts out. Just need to clear out the excess glue and mount if too close.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/18/bahepu2y.jpg

[damfurst]

Good you got it out.

[Flyin Okie]

Am looking to the electronics segment of this and an wondering whether it would be better to go 2S or 3S? I know the 3S should draw less amps, and the battery would weigh a bit more, but am unsure beyond that or the ESC. Am looking at the Loepard 2845 motor in 2230kv for 2S or 3300kv for 3S. Also looking to the Octura X427 and maybe X430 for starts in props.

[damfurst]

With the motor's that you've chosen I would run the 2230kv motor on 3s and the 3300kv on 2s. They both come out at about 24,500 rpm unloaded that way. Also, I have a 3300kv motor in mine and 2s is plenty. On 3s it is an uncontrollable rocket. It all depends what you want to do. As far as props go either one will work fine with more torque roll from the X430. Also be sure a sharpen and balance either one to tone down the torque roll.

[Flyin Okie]

Ugh, you are right on the kV/voltage. Can't tell you how many times I've caught myself making that same error.
May just go the 3300kv route as I can use the 2S in my RR2 also.

[Rich]

Here is my gecko setup.
3900 kv, 2s, I run 3s sometimes but its too much for this hull. 47mph top speed if I can keep it in the water with 3s

[Flyin Okie]

An looking at the Seaking ESC's, would the 60 and be enough?

[Rich]

If you can fit the 60 in go for it, I run the 35 amp which is all you need for2s, 3s you need more