What is the best way to fix a hull crack?

[Jason4636]

I have a Miss Geico, that has a crack in the hull where the top and bottom half of the hull joins together. I have all the FG an resin to reinforce the inside seam. But whats the best way to fix the crack? I'm not worried about the outside. I'm going to sand it down and paint it anyways
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[driftah]

if it were me I would glass it from the inside and then if you are going to sand it from the outside maybe use some spot putty in there and repaint and clear bud

[Jason4636]

I already have all the FG, CF and resin. And I plan on reinforceing the hull seam around the whole boat on the inside. What I'm wondering about is the crack. Should I just put some CA glue, then body filler. Then sand it down, and paint. Or do I need to sand the outside down, put some resin and FG on the outside. Then body filler, and paint

[tlandauer]

Jason, I fixed mine a month ago , exact problem only different location. My crack seems to be a bit more "thorough" than yours. The seam was open but a thin layer of FG cloth in the back ( inside) was holding on. I used medium CA from the outside, I had a http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-pt03 I carefully applied along the crack and "massaged" the CA into the surface ( crack). It is important when you "massage" the hull you try to retain the original shape so no serious deformation occurs. After it is cured the seam should be already strong. Now you can work from the inside. My location was in the front and I had to rip out the flimsy foam and some popsicle sticks out. There is some "ridge" inside you need to use something to smooth out. I ended up using hobby knife. Also make sure there is no grease inside, use acetone to clean.
I use this :http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=GPMR1054&P=7 to reinforce the seams. Use http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-pt40.
Sorry for the long winded post, just my $.02

[tlandauer]

btw, the outside was so smooth I just wet sanded with 400 grit SP, painted ( hard to match) the crack and reapplied the decal which I carefully pulled before the repair. I wish I have the ability to repaint. Love to see what you come up with.
Cheers!

[Jason4636]

btw, the outside was so smooth I just wet sanded with 400 grit SP, painted ( hard to match) the crack and reapplied the decal which I carefully pulled before the repair. I wish I have the ability to repaint. Love to see what you come up with.
Cheers!
tlandauer - I have that same FG an resin. But the CA glue I have came from Lowes. Does that really matter? On the paint, I have no idea on what it's gonna look like. But it will be mainly orange, cause I have orange CF/Kevlar weave going in the hull.
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I'm going to pull out everything down to a bare hull, the put a layer of CF down. I have a Leo 4082 2200kv and a T-180 going in it. Going to try the m445 or x642. This is kinda going to be my go have fun boat.

This one is my prized queen. I just maiden it saturday. I still have some odds and ends to finalize. Power is a TP 4092 980kv and a FC 16s/300a esc. Running on 8s-10s. Its a little rocket. On take off, if you just go to half throttle. The whole boat will jump out of the water, prop included.
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[tlandauer]

This IS a beauty!! Man, that paint is to die for! Pardon my ignirance, what hull is it?
To be honest with you, I never had anything other than the Zap CA, reason is that it is a mere 5 min. drive for me to my LHS and that's the brand they carry. I don't know Lowes has their own brand, maybe someone can educate us. I can tell you one thing: use a fresh bottle, although they have a def. shelf life, they do deteriorate over time and cure time is greatly affected. I now put them in my refridgerator, seems to last longer.
btw, my MG has the same set up as yours and I have been using a m445. Strut set way up, I read Dana's post and finally got rid of the wah-wah-wahs.

[tlandauer]

Well, I will be... It's a MG?? Tell you, it is simply gorgeous!

[Jason4636]

Its a Fightercat Fantasm 41". I just bought the CA at Lowes, I don't remember the name brand of it. The only LHS is a guy that runs a computer store, and since his son was into racing RC trucks. They sell Traxxas stuff there, really not a selection of anything I need there. I normally just buy from OSE an Kintec.
Dana's post? How did he get rid of hte wah-wah-wahs? I've read some post on the MG. I started out with a Motley Crew about 2 months ago. Tore it down to a bare hull an hour after I got it. Then went to town with CF, a leo 4074 an t180. It ran nice, but I always liked the MG/Mystic hull.
You said yours has the same motor an esc, I'm going to put in mine. What kind of speed and run time are you getting. I'm going to run Turnigy 4s 5000mah 65c batteries 4s2p.

[Flying Scotsman]

How big is the crack and length?

Douggie

[tlandauer]

I use 4s2p. Sky lipo 5000mah, 40c. I always time my run, ( when I was running 4s1p) then I realized I have much longer run time, I ran for 6 min. and two of the caps swelled which I replaced all three and put a cap bank since. I had only done GPS once and that was with a x642 prop, clocked @ 53.3 mph.
Your batt. are bettey than mine, your temp might be lower. Dana's post was not specifically on the MG, he was saying the results of his adjustments.
You know I always thought to make the center of the strut level with the ride pads, and thought that was pretty high already, now my bottom of the strut is level with the ride pad, doesn't take much, but the result was great. I tried to raise it even higher, the ride was great but the boat catches air and I don't have an air dam. I also trued my ride pads. Seemed to remember I might have told you, sorry to repeat myself.

[Jason4636]

How big is the crack and length?

Douggie
Maybe 3" long. It's not bad

[Jason4636]

I paln on doing my ride pads while I'm at it. I also have the bottom of the strut level with the sponsons. I've only ran the MG one time. It still had the factory motor, but I put in my t180. With the strut level, zero degree tilt on the strut, an zero degree tilt to the rudder. With the batteries I mentioned earlier. When I would be coming out of a turn it would get that wah-wah-wah till it get close to top end. Then it would settle down and just cruise nice and flat

[dana]

Landauer,Good to hear raising your strut helps. Cats like em high.
Not sure what billy is talking about with acetone making paint not stick. Not true at all. Acetone is basically nail polish remover, a stronger version, but will not prevent paint from sticking even remotely. It's fine to use. If you've used acetone and paint doesn't stick, it's not because of the acetone..., something else is wrong.
Good luck on the fix man

[Jason4636]

I actually just put this MG in the for sale area. Thinking about doing a cheetah, or a DF 45" sniper build

[tlandauer]

Well, that is one way to fix the crack!:laugh:

[tlandauer]

[QUOTE=dana;455580]Landauer,Good to hear raising your strut helps. Cats like em high.
Dana, I am so glad to have read your post. Difference was day and night! Funny thing was everyone talks about raising higher, but not until I raised the bottom of the strut ABOVE the ride pad did I see the transfomation.:thumbup1:

[dana]

How am I supposed to know you're name isn't billy?!?! Instead I'll refer to you as barnacle then.

Acetone can remove SOME paints, not all, but does not mean it causes paint not to stick. It does flash off you know.
So what about American restoration? I don't care ... What point are you trying to make?
What plastic is used on the geico hull?

Acetone is fine to clean before paint

[dana]

I should clear up that it's only ok for some paints. It will remove enamels and lacquers. But at no point does it cause New paint to not stick

[tlandauer]

The need to remove oily substance and anything that will prevent the correct adhesion and cure of epoxy when embarking on this kind of task is essential . Acetone will clean and ensure a clean surface. Since it is inside and we are not rubbing it on good paint, I see no harm.
Yes, liberal use or soaking will soften certain surface/material, you can feel it first becoming sticky and then starts to get a bit soft. But hopefully we won't go to that extreme to clean the inside of the hull.
Denatured alcohol removes oil and finger prints on camera lenses, that is the extent of my experience, so if it works in this situation, then that's great!:beerchug:

[tlandauer]

No Worries, Bruce,
I like different opinions, one can always learn more that way. As for LCD/LED, I agree alcohol is not the chioce, too caustic. The commercially available screen cleaner is much better. Ditto for lense cleaner.
I find the used Proboat 1500kv tobe a good motor.

[Jason4636]

Well I decided to keep the boat and just fix the crack. Been grinding down the seam where the upper and lower hulls meet. Then I'm going to lay some FG tape on the seam. I've filled the water inlet, outlet, and antenna holes. Trued the ride pads. Next I'm going to do a orange and black CF/Kevlar inlay.

[tlandauer]

:buttrock: that is going to be some strong hull after this!!

[Jason4636]

I hope it is. I have a Leo 4082 2200kv an SK180a esc going in it. With a x642, should be around 50+mph