Fullers offset Hardware

[ETOWNE]

I installed the Fullers offset rudder hardware on my BJ the last 2 days.The hardware installs pretty easy. I didn't even have to make a new hole for the servo arm, fit in the old one. I didn't have to remove the stuffing tube either, just trim back the old one. I put the offset rudder bracket right above the strut, this gives me 1.5" to the center of the strut to the rudder. Also makes the bottom of the rudder 1.5" farther below the center of the prop.
I also removed the battery tray,tupperware box and part of the servo tray. Turn fins are removed also. I used 2"X7" wide basswood trimmed to fit in the bottom of each sponson and epoxied those in with velcro straps underneath them. Moved the speedo to in front of the motor. Filled all of the holes in with epoxy.
I went out tonite for the madien voyage. I had to trim the radio way down . The first time I held it open in the corner , I flipped it right over. I paddle the canoe (RESCUE 1) out and got it. Back on the shore, took alot of dual rate out of the radio. We pitch it back in the water, it's the best it's ever turned, cool. I went around 1 of the bouys wide open and tghe motor reved real high and no go. I paddle back out to it and as I get up to it, the whole shaft is missing. I didn't think about the motor coupler being .150 and a cable being .130 . The thing tightened up, I guess not eneough.
Anyways, I'll get new coupler ordered in the morning and flex shaft. Just suck that I lost an octura x642 that I had just bought last week balanced and sharpened. I'll try to get some pictures on gere for my set-up. I can tell already it works better.I have stock motor and speed controll, and 2 Checkpoint 2s2p 5400's. Was running an Octura x642 sharpened,balanced, and polished by ICE329.[URL="http://pictures.aol.com/galleries/rttowne/6cd0epCthiGJPnui6-hKjk0fAgUYUZO0bsLhv4xQp5Fd3Ig="]

[Mich. Maniac]

Thats awesome! Not that you lost all that gear but that you did a ton of work and it sounds like it payed off! Cant wait to spank it with a SV! Hope to see some live shots soon. IF, I ever get my hydra... ALWAYS, ALWAYS spend the money and order from Steven. UGH!

[ETOWNE]

Cant wait to spank it with a SV!
Does your SV run over BJ's if it can't keep up also ?j/k...lol
You really do need to make time. We put 5 bouys out. On the backstretch you have to come inside one and back out to turn 3. Or, we can just do oval.

[ETOWNE]

I had a GPS in my boat today, 43 mph top speed. Stock motor,speedo,hull,Fuller offset hardware,Octura M445 S/B/P,(2) 2S2PCheckpoint 5400's, and the hull is gutted. Not to bad IMO.

[Steven Vaccaro]

Since you lost the shaft, get a .150 cable. You may experience issues with .130 cable and the high power you are using.

[ETOWNE]

Steve, I ordered the .130 shaft from you a couple weeks ago. I also ordered a 5mm-.150 coupler....OOOPs.... 5 A.M. ordering sucks...lol... I then reordered the 5mm-.130 coupler and got it last week. Now you want me to switch to .150....Come on....J/K..

Whenever we order our Hydro's, I'll get the .150 shaft.

[ETOWNE]

I think I'll re-install the turn fins. Without them the boat is a little finicky.

[Mich. Maniac]

How about installing turn fins on the inside of the tunnel near the first step? Would that keep the hull from rolling soo much in corners? Im thinking of sanding off the skinny ride pads and glassing in some basswood to make ride pads much wider and less likely to roll the hull so much in turns. Theres gotta be a way to make this hull corner better.

[Apples1]

pic of my hull mods will be posted in the BJ handeling thread later on tonight, worked a treat on mine.

[ETOWNE]

I re-installed the turn fins last night. I go out to take the first lap and at turn 2 there was a piece of wood floating. Needless to say I hit it and knocked the trimm out of adjustment. After that the whole boat was in the water, negative trim. Ididn't feel like messing with it. I'll try some more things this weekend.

[ETOWNE]

Here's video with the turn fins installed. I was running way to wet.http://photobucket.com/video/erics%20boat/twotownes831/ericsboat3.flv?o=2

[Apples1]

I have a problem with torque roll too.... i am not useing the fins and would rather not either,
a couple of guys at the club sugested doeing some work on the prop like thinning it out and "cuping" it a little, and they say this should eliminate most if not all of the torque roll. Will let you know how it goes.

[ETOWNE]

Apples1, I put the turn fins back on, I like it. I think my next move is to fill-in the last step in the sponson and remove the turn fins again.

[Apples1]

i think the turn fins add around 3-5mph maybe

[ETOWNE]

i think the turn fins add around 3-5mph maybe

They subtract a couple mph's. I would like to not use them but, I like to turn too.

[Apples1]

Sorry i meant loose 3-5mph or so not add or gain. i cant notice the difference turning with or with out them.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Most of the hooking is becasue of the sponson design. Your rudder looks to be plenty deep so doubt that is the problem. A wider sponson at the rear could help and removing the one step. It is the inside edge of the opposite sponosn that helps keep it stuck in the turns...not the out sponson edge. Hope that makes sense.. Inside tunnel edges need to be nice and straight and sharp.

The tabs can help but if the design is corrected you do not need them. These are not tabs but spin fins. You may want to keep the trim tabs on to adjust for corners....it will keep the hull up a bit when slowing in the corners.

The hull design they have is more for looks than performance. Look at some real steps on real cats to get an idea of what I mean. Calllan/Mystic hulls have a round outter edge so the water actually rolls under the hull and not act as a straight edge out there so when water hits it is is like hitting a brick wall.

[ETOWNE]

Thanks Jeff, that's kinda the way I'm leaning...no pun intended. Iwould like to get the spin fins back off.

[Jeff Wohlt]

I have to say...all of you testing and trying to push the BJ 26 should be proud. Not many box boats can handle it. I see Anthony made 55 mph and running 6S thru the stock system...holy cow! Those are well built motors but never thought the ESC could handle that....nice to know.

So hats off to all of you guys pushing these hulls to the max. I'm sure many of you came off the water with shakey hands!!

[Anthony.L]

With all the talk of hull modification I'm tempted to try it. Now will the hull mod help more in straight line speed or just cornering? I honestly don't care about cornering, this boat is just to play around with and see how fast I can make it go in a straight line...

Up next, just picked up a Hydra 120 and already have a NEU 1515/2.5/F

[Jeff Wohlt]

Anytime you can widen a ride pad, without going overboard, it should run faster. I was thinking it may be easy to put some abs to the bottom at the rear and then use some filler to round up the sponsons on the outter edge. I used ride pads on all the earlier cats I had. It made a big difference on my Scat Cat 32. I also use them on my hydro front sponsons....give a nice clean and sharp edge.

You may find just blueprinting the bottom can get you closer to 60. Flat, straight and espcially at the rear of the sponson should be nice and sharp coming down from the transom.

I use sqaudron putty. Forms easy and sands easy and then just paint. Or you can use Bondo that works very well too and stronger. Just catch it before it sets up hard to do first shaping.

[Apples1]

after my hull mods mine helped in both cornering and striaght line, alot more stable.... here are the pics if anyone missed them http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/ee126/john_watkins1/

hope they help.

[ETOWNE]

The last couple days I have been laying down balsa and fiberglass. I filled in the last set of steps w/ balsa wood first. I then went to the angle part to the outside of the ride pad and put some angled balsa stock there, making the outside more rounded. I then laid strips of fiberglas about 1 inch wide on top of the outer part of each side. The back of the hull rounded out nice. I'm letting spot putty dry right now. Tomorrow I will finish sanding and get some high build primer put on. Hopefully my buddy KSSI wil post a couple of pictures for me. Starting to really look good.

[rockwerks]

Anytime you can widen a ride pad, without going overboard, it should run faster. I was thinking it may be easy to put some abs to the bottom at the rear and then use some filler to round up the sponsons on the outter edge. I used ride pads on all the earlier cats I had. It made a big difference on my Scat Cat 32. I also use them on my hydro front sponsons....give a nice clean and sharp edge.

You may find just blueprinting the bottom can get you closer to 60. Flat, straight and espcially at the rear of the sponson should be nice and sharp coming down from the transom.

I use sqaudron putty. Forms easy and sands easy and then just paint. Or you can use Bondo that works very well too and stronger. Just catch it before it sets up hard to do first shaping.

any pics? ride pads? more explanation please

[ETOWNE]

It's at KSSI's house drying. I'll try to post some tomorrow.

[ETOWNE]

I'll now refer to you as MR. Wohlt. I filled the last set of steps and rounded the back end out. What a difference. 40mph down the straights and pry 35 through the corners. The thing never ran so well, Thanks.