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Tom899
09-04-2012, 05:44 AM
Is there any way to adjust the LVC? I believe it is set very low, about 3.00v. I know I should time my boat and bring it in but a few times I ended up stranded without much warning. A few friends with Proboat Mystics seem to have the luxury of bringing their boat in after they let it set for a minute whereas mine only leaves enough voltage for the steering servo but the motor won't budge. Again I realize I should bring it in before it gets to this point but in reality it always doesn't happen. If the included speed control is not adjustable can you please recommend an adjustable one I can replace it with? Or, maybe it's just me, my batteries, etc... Looking for guidence from more experienced than me. I don't mean to complain as I think this boat is awesome and can't think of another RTR I would rather have.
Thanks,
Tom

Mike Caruso
09-04-2012, 10:00 AM
Tom,
I found the same thing just yesterday pulled my buddies packs down too low I thought 2.90. I did like Grim's instruction sheet said and run the boat a short time and check how much left in battery's. Grim 4s great battery so far most power of others I have tried and is always cooler after running. Hyperion battery's close second might even pass a blind fold test tells me you get what you pay for in battery's This is my first Electric boat and I love it. Car guy's do not understand how hard our battery's work. I am looking for a different ESC I think not sure yet. 45 mph is just fine for me with this boat I need to get back there. Then start building a faster different boat LOL.
Mike

Tom899
09-04-2012, 01:10 PM
Yes, you are correct about the LVC, default is 11.63v divide by 4 = 2.9075v per cell. Is this kind of low or normal?

Tom899
09-11-2012, 05:26 AM
...2.9075v per cell. Is this kind of low or normal?...
Instructions I've read say not to go below 3.0v per cell. And none of the AQ ESC's are adjustable, for anything including voltage.

If you would prefer an adjustable ESC, might I suggest a HobbyWing Seaking 90-amp unit?? Stocker is 60-amps and barely enough. I just downloaded the Revolt manual, under the motor specs section it states "Max. Surge Current: 80A/5 sec". And the stock ESC is 60-amps, hhmmm....

Seems like a 90-amp ESC (or more) would be a much safer choice than the stock 60A, I attached the HW ESC manual to this message.
FYI: default LVC = 3.2v/cell. JMHO

Thank you for suggesting this ESC. I like it and it looks like it will do what I want.
Tom

dana
09-11-2012, 07:14 AM
If you end up stranded, you're going past the lvc. The lvc should cut you're power in half, which means its time to stop running and bring the boat in. Pay atttention to this. If its not cutting power in half and just stopping you probably have some other issue there.

Doby
09-13-2012, 01:06 PM
Nothing wrong with the stock controller...its been proven by many to handle way above the stated ratings. ESC's tend to be rated below what they can actually handle to help protect some people.

Mike Caruso
09-13-2012, 08:31 PM
Nothing wrong with the stock controller...its been proven by many to handle way above the stated ratings. ESC's tend to be rated below what they can actually handle to help protect some people.

Second that only because my ESC is always cold when I bring it in. I have to fix the temp on the ESC or just swap motor temp for one run. I do have 5.5 mm Castle connectors, but ESC to 1800Kv still are 4's.

Mike Caruso
09-13-2012, 10:30 PM
Tom's original question was: is there a way to adjust the LVC on the Revolt's ESC. As we all know, the answer is no.

That was my primary reason for suggesting the Hobbywing Seaking series, the other being personal experience with 2 of them.

35-amp unit I put in my Rio when I first upgraded it to brushless, and the 60-amp unit I used with my AQ Wildcat EP.

I set the timing on the 60-amp unit to 11.25-degrees for the same reasons I suggested. That subject has been brought up somewhere on this forum previously, think it was in the UL-1 section.

If having adjustable LVC is an issue for Tom, then he will of course have to replace the stock ESC with an aftermarket unit. My replies & suggestions are based on personal experience. I still feel an upgrade is in order, but that's just my opinion. I don't want to risk starting a "pissing match", so I'll leave it at that.

Tom, good luck with your endeavors no matter which way you choose to go.

Regards,

Hey Billy,

I think you have given great info. Now when I have to up-grade I have no problem following your recommendations. You have been there done that. This is my first Electric boat so I am learning from you and anyone else who post's. So by all means don't ever stop my friend!!!!!! I hope someday to help someone reach 100 mph like I am shooting for not with a Re Volt HA. So I can help the next persons.

Mike

Tom899
09-14-2012, 05:45 AM
Tom's original question was: is there a way to adjust the LVC on the Revolt's ESC. As we all know, the answer is no.

That was my primary reason for suggesting the Hobbywing Seaking series, the other being personal experience with 2 of them.

35-amp unit I put in my Rio when I first upgraded it to brushless, and the 60-amp unit I used with my AQ Wildcat EP.

I set the timing on the 60-amp unit to 11.25-degrees for the same reasons I suggested. That subject has been brought up somewhere on this forum previously, think it was in the UL-1 section.

If having adjustable LVC is an issue for Tom, then he will of course have to replace the stock ESC with an aftermarket unit. My replies & suggestions are based on personal experience. I still feel an upgrade is in order, but that's just my opinion. I don't want to risk starting a "pissing match", so I'll leave it at that.

Tom, good luck with your endeavors no matter which way you choose to go.

Regards,

Thanks Billy and everyone else- I appreciate your advice and all the ESC information I can get.
I'm a beginner with boats and Lipo's so all of you know more about this than me. The bootom line is i'm just looking for a better way of knowing when it's time to bring my boat in before I get stranded, which has happenned three times so far. My boat seems to hardly slow down and no warning before quiting. I have two sets of nano 5000mah 45c/90c with a Power Lab 6 charger controlled through my computer. I always balance charge and the batteries are in great shape. A few friends in the club have Pro Boat Mystics and if there boats should happen to quit, they let it sit for a minute or so and then they can then bring it in. Now I assumed this was because there LVC was set higher and still had the voltage to limp it in. So, again this is just my assumtion and beginners thinking so I'm certainly not dead set on needing an adjustable ESC just thought it might help? Maybe I should be looking at another solution.
Thanks,
Tom

dana
09-14-2012, 07:20 AM
I dunno man, the studder bump feature always worked fine on all my aq escs. Always. I dunno what's going on with yours but, I guess go buy an aftermarket esc, then sell the factory one. Should have no problem selling it.

Tom899
09-14-2012, 10:23 AM
I dunno man, the studder bump feature always worked fine on all my aq escs. Always. I dunno what's going on with yours but, I guess go buy an aftermarket esc, then sell the factory one. Should have no problem selling it.

Can you please explain how the studder bump works? I don't see anything happenning to mine, unless I don't know what to look for?

Thanks,
Tom

Grimracer
09-14-2012, 01:45 PM
Dana,
Couple things...
1. I'm at AQ's website and have the Revolt manual on screen. On page 3 they have the motor & ESC specs and info on the subject of LVC.

First the motor specs = Max. Constant Current: 50A -- Max. Surge Current: 80A/5 sec. --- Now the ESC... Output Current: 60A continuous maximum -- 72A surge maximum. As you can see, in a surge situation the motor is capable of drawing more current than the ESC can deliver. The Revolt is not the only AQ boat that has that issue, they all do. The 60A ESC in the Revolt is also used in several other AQ boats, MC, UL-1 and others. The 45-amp ESC in the SV27's are also underated for the motor used them.

The 50-amp ESC that comes stock with the Wildcat EP is also underated for its motor, that was one the reasons I replaced it with a 60A Seaking unit out of the box.

The ESC in the Rio EP is notorious for frying when used with 8.4v batteries, AQ has a tech note on the Rio page but it's 200% pure BS!! as myself and countless other Rio owners have discovered. There are dozens upon dozens of posts on practically every forum on the net (not just this one) on that subject. The Hammer EP suffers the same problem because it uses the same ESC.

What that tells' me is: AQ are cheapskates more interested in profit than making a quality boat. Doesn't matter if it's a $160 entry level boat or a $350 FE.

2. AQ's LiPo ready ESC's have a feature called "stutter bump". On page 3 of the Revolt manual they discuss the subject of "stutter bump" & LVC. Here's what it says...

Notes about using LiPo batteries in your boat: The Revolt uses the AquaCraft 60amp motor controller. This controller has a built in stutter bump system that cycles the power to the motor when the battery voltage reaches 12V. This is designed to warn you of impending low battery voltage and subsequent shut down. It also has a 10.8V battery cut off safety system that shuts the power down to the motor to avoid damaging the batteries.

3. Somewhere on this forum there's great thread about boat ESC's, how to calculate what amp ESC you should use for your application and so on. In that thread various posters make statements such as: boat motors pull far more current than there car / truck counterparts, boat ESC's are often times over-rated (advertised 60A is really a 45~50A), allowing "overhead" and other really useful info. Part of the reason for allowing overhead is because of the false amp ratings. The figures I've seen are in the 20% ~ 30% range, I personally go with 30%.

Using the above Revolt specs with 30% overhead I find that I should have a ESC with a minimum of 65A continuous, which of course is 5-amps greater than the stock unit. And 104-amp surge - a whopping 32-amps more than the stock unit. That is why I suggested the 90-amp Seaking unit to Tom in my first reply.

Based on the above info, I maintain that the ONLY thing wrong with Tom's ESC is that it's cheap factory POS that needs to be replaced with a qualitiy aftermarket unit like the Seaking series.

Tom, should you decide to go with one of the Seaking units there's something I would like to point out. By default the motor timing is set at 15-degrees, AQ ESC's are set at 10-degrees. I ran a Seaking 60A unit in my Wildcat and took the timing down to 11.25-degrees because the next lowest setting is 7.50-degree's. Obviously 11.25 is a lot closer to 10 than 7.50.

Hope this extra info gets you pointed in the right direction.
Regards,

Aha yes.. I feel the love........
Grim

dana
09-14-2012, 04:14 PM
Tom, there should be a noticeable studder in the motor operation when it kicks in. Surprising you havent noticed it.
Grim, i hear ya man. My escs have all worked flawlessly

Tom899
09-14-2012, 05:36 PM
Tom, there should be a noticeable studder in the motor operation when it kicks in. Surprising you havent noticed it.
Grim, i hear ya man. My escs have all worked flawlessly

Maybe it is working and I don't notice it? I love the boat and hardware, everyone watching me run is impressed. I'm just trying to maximize run time and bring it in before it quits. I've been successful recently by bringing it in after about 5 minutes, which is probably a little early, but it's no fun to be stuck out on the water with no wind or current to bring it in. If you guys tell me it is what it is and an adjustable ESC will be of no help than I will just live with bringing it in early. I still don't quite understand the studder bump, maybe my boat has been too far away for me to notice it? It seems to all of a sudden slow down and stop, all within under 10 seconds. I don't mean to start any disagreements, I'm in the learning mode and looking for advice more than anything. If there's a better way or new piece of hardware that might help I don't mind hearing about it.
Thanks,
Tom

dana
09-14-2012, 05:39 PM
Without seeing it run it's hard to tell man. You can buy a seaking esc for cheap money that are adjustable. 5 minutes is a good run.

Doby
09-14-2012, 05:40 PM
Grim, i hear ya man. My escs have all worked flawlessly

Agreed, I guess the 6 AQ controllers I've been racing for the past 3 years must be the only good ones..aside from Dana's..

Electronics are UNDER-RATED...Period.

Tom899
09-14-2012, 05:56 PM
Agreed, I guess the 6 AQ controllers I've been racing for the past 3 years must be the only good ones..aside from Dana's..

Electronics are UNDER-RATED...Period.

I think mine might be working perfectly also. Infact I'm sure there is nothing wrong with it and I never said there was, just was wondering if there is anything better on the market that might help my situation. In my case it could be me not fully understanding everything. Sorry if I opened up a can of worms, didn't mean to.
Thanks,
Tom

Tom899
09-14-2012, 06:11 PM
Without seeing it run it's hard to tell man. You can buy a seaking esc for cheap money that are adjustable. 5 minutes is a good run.

Good feedback Dana, I didn't know 5 minutes was a good run, so maybe I'll just stick with 5 minutes and be done with it.
Also, I had a great run last night by stacking my batteries in the middle instead of side by side, completely got rid of any chain walking and 42.4mph. So with this in mind my next battery will be a single 4s and i'll try another company. You know, maybe the characteristics of my nano batteries are not allowing the studder bump, maybe all of a sudden they drop fast? A different company battery should prove this out.
Thanks,
Tom

Doby
09-14-2012, 06:19 PM
No Problem Tom...

dana
09-14-2012, 07:34 PM
When it studder bumps, don't just hold full throttle. Let off the trigger, then give it just enough juice to get it in...

Doug Smock
09-14-2012, 08:10 PM
Sorry if I opened up a can of worms, didn't mean to.
Thanks,
Tom
You didn't open a can of worms Tom.
These guys have been a little cranky lately, not sure what's up with that.:wink:
Doug

rjs62
09-14-2012, 10:57 PM
what about lvc alarms ? I bought 2 of these to run my lipo's in our cars which have no lvc for lipo's

so far they work excelent ! seem to start chirping around 3.6 volts per cell !

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270658077401?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Tom899
09-15-2012, 05:16 AM
When it studder bumps, don't just hold full throttle. Let off the trigger, then give it just enough juice to get it in...
Ok, I'll try that out if I see studder bump.
Thanks,
Tom

Mike Caruso
09-15-2012, 10:11 AM
Ok, I'll try that out if I see studder bump.
Thanks,
Tom

Morning Tom,
My boat I only hit studder bump once and batteries were way low.
I was up at 4.20 AM us old guys don't sleep good, just often. I am running this morning and I have one more thing to try to find the lost mph. I will update when I get back home.
Mike

Mike Caruso
09-16-2012, 11:05 AM
Hey Tom,
I got sick from the Sun yesterday and still weak. I will post later when feeling better. I did run 42 and 43 mph on mirror glass water with my Re Volt. I have found that I have a lot of wear in the strut. Looks like it was spinning the brass sleeve and the end large section dug into the strut. Thought I had more than needed air-gap drive dog to brass sleeve. I did polish the brass sleeve with 1500 in direction of rotation when it was new 30 runs now. On another note when I was at the Hobart race I bought raffle tickets and won a Aquacraft Top Speed 3 tunnel outboard boat very nice. Need to talk with outboard electric guys now or swap it for ?
Mike

Tom899
09-16-2012, 11:18 AM
Hi Mike,
Hope you get feeling better soon!
Thanks for the updates. I'll have to keep an eye on my strut and sleeve. I upgraded my flex shaft and brass sleve in the beginning and the sleeve did not fit, too small. I ended up sanding it quite a bit untill it fit. I called Steven at OSE and he didn't know there were different size shafts, he tried one out and found the same thing. He promptly refunded and is working on a solution. The stock one is .214” and the new one is .218”. Nice deal winning the boat!
Tom

Napalm
09-19-2012, 03:21 PM
I have the same issue where mine will studder then just shut down as soon as i notice the studder i immediately stop driving and i loose all power to the moto after i let out of the throttle but i still have full steering capabilities. i thought it was a bad esc so i bought another one of the same model but still same problem so im going to buy a new esc and properly program it so then hopefully i wont have these problems. just not sure on what esc to order

Mike Caruso
09-19-2012, 07:32 PM
I have the same issue where mine will studder then just shut down as soon as i notice the studder i immediately stop driving and i loose all power to the moto after i let out of the throttle but i still have full steering capabilities. i thought it was a bad esc so i bought another one of the same model but still same problem so im going to buy a new esc and properly program it so then hopefully i wont have these problems. just not sure on what esc to order

You don't have to buy anything just pay attention to your running time, you are just running a little to long.
Mike

Napalm
09-20-2012, 11:46 AM
thanks mike i will have to keep better track of time from now on i guess.

Tom899
09-21-2012, 05:25 AM
I have the same issue where mine will studder then just shut down as soon as i notice the studder i immediately stop driving and i loose all power to the moto after i let out of the throttle but i still have full steering capabilities. i thought it was a bad esc so i bought another one of the same model but still same problem so im going to buy a new esc and properly program it so then hopefully i wont have these problems. just not sure on what esc to order

Yes, it seems timing is important. I'm going to finish the season with the stock ESC and keep it to around 5 minutes. Next spring I'll probably get the bug to upgrade some parts and an adjustable ESC is on my short list. Two friends in our club have ProBoat Mystics. This is how there ESC's work. If they happen to run too long and the boat stops they let it sit for approximately one minute and then it will run again very slow, but enough to get to shore. I'm guessing it's because the LVC is set higher and the batteries can recover slightly, but this is a guess on my part. I could be all wrong, but would like to experiment, it’s a hobby, right.

Mike Caruso
09-21-2012, 07:01 AM
Yes Tom only a hobby. Keep it fun...not a PITA. You could save money and by a timer and set it for 5 mins.

Tom899
09-21-2012, 04:39 PM
Yes Tom only a hobby. Keep it fun...not a PITA. You could save money and by a timer and set it for 5 mins.

Yes this is true. But, the engineer in me wants more tweeking and adjustments for trial and error and maybe I'll learn something along the way.

metoo
05-22-2013, 02:25 PM
Old thread but still valid.

I don't even have a Revolt officially yet (should arrive in 2 hours), but I've already bought a Seaking ESC. I got the 120. Sure, the 90 would do, but if I ever felt like going with a faster motor, I would already be a step ahead. That whole timing-your-runs-thing is for the birds....literally. You should only have to do that for non-grounded RC vehicles (planes and helis). If you are a racer or someone running the boat hard through 95% of the charge, then you can get your timing down well. If you're just playing around with some full throttle, some part throttle, playing cat&mouse games, etc., time is going to vary more greatly. I know...I can hear it now..."If ya ain't gonna run full throttle then why buy a Revolt?" Regardless, I feel we should be able to rely on the LVC to warn us when the pack is low and allow us to bring the boat in without overdrained batteries. Shut-off at 2.7V/cell?! That's crazy. Let's not forget that that is an average. In summarey, timing may be cool for some. I vote new ESC.

Mike Caruso
05-22-2013, 09:24 PM
Wish you fun with the Revolt.

Grimracer
05-23-2013, 03:18 PM
[QUOTE=metoo;504018]That whole timing-your-runs-thing is for the birds....literally. You should only have to do that for non-grounded RC vehicles (planes and helis).QUOTE]

Mind if I say something about this.

The NORM is.. you can safely walk out to pick up your crashed plane, heli and RC car.. YOU CAN NOT WITH AN RC BOAT. A new danger is involved and THAT.. is why it is BEST to know your boat, run times.


Again..be safe.

Grim

p.s. As a racer I have not come close to using up the MAH in my race setup..

Doby
05-23-2013, 04:25 PM
Old thread but still valid.

I don't even have a Revolt officially yet (should arrive in 2 hours), but I've already bought a Seaking ESC. I got the 120. Sure, the 90 would do, but if I ever felt like going with a faster motor, I would already be a step ahead. That whole timing-your-runs-thing is for the birds....literally. You should only have to do that for non-grounded RC vehicles (planes and helis). If you are a racer or someone running the boat hard through 95% of the charge, then you can get your timing down well. If you're just playing around with some full throttle, some part throttle, playing cat&mouse games, etc., time is going to vary more greatly. I know...I can hear it now..."If ya ain't gonna run full throttle then why buy a Revolt?" Regardless, I feel we should be able to rely on the LVC to warn us when the pack is low and allow us to bring the boat in without overdrained batteries. Shut-off at 2.7V/cell?! That's crazy. Let's not forget that that is an average. In summarey, timing may be cool for some. I vote new ESC.

Sounds like you did all the required research and are an expert on LVC and its use in boats...

jetskier
05-23-2013, 05:48 PM
I never let mine get to studder mode. Working in automotive and aviation testing has trained my hearing very well. I listen to the straightaway RPM drops and I usually can get about 8min run time on my 4200 and 4500mAh going full tilt, varying speed, and stop sometimes. I have 4 4S batteries to run and also have 3 batteries for my Barbwire. with both it gives me a good amount of time till I'm tired of running. when I get home and put the batteries on the charger, they all take in about 3000-3600mAh don't know how accurate the readings are. I'm very happy with the stock ESC, I don't see any reason for me to change it out. I'm still new to RC boating but from my experience with jetski racing, automotive, and avaition. usually stock setup and settings has been tested and proven and given a warranty, and once you modified.. your on your own.

rickwess
05-24-2013, 08:36 AM
After initially running the boat through a few packs, my main concerns with the stock ESC were (in order of importance):

- LVC at 11.6V is too low. I'd don't want my LiPo cells dropping below 3V.
- Not very smooth/linear. It seems to go from 0 to 30% power in one jump.
- I got caught twice with a dead battery in the middle of he lake after the "bump" gave me about 10secs of warning. If the LVC was higher, this wouldn't have happened.

LOVE the boat, not so much the ESC. I run Tekin in my cars so maybe I'm just used to the way they work.

Fluid
05-24-2013, 09:29 AM
The AQ 60A controller is clearly under-rated, since I run it in applications pulling well over 80 amps with no problems. Sure, it is not as linear as some other controllers and the LVC is a bit on the low side, but it is one of the few ESCs which are actually waterproof. In spite of claims to the contrary, ESCs like the Swordfish can be damaged/destroyed if they get wet. The way the AQ 60A controllers are made, it is almost impossible to destroy them with water.

While I have not tried it, it may be possible to run an external LVC with the AQ controller. Cheaper than a new ESC and it would cure that complaint....if it works.



.

BHChieftain
05-24-2013, 09:40 AM
I second Fluid's comment... I have a demanding OPC tunnel, and I use the UL1 motor in it. My seaking 120A ESC could not handle it-- caps fried. Replaced it with the "lowly" Aquacraft 60A ESC and it works great.

I just had a new p-spec limited hydro built by Randy at BBY, using UL1 motor it. Fastest boat in my fleet. Uses the AQ 60A ESC. I also like the fact that is is super water resistant.

Chief

PS, use a timer... you should be calculating how much capacity is left in your packs and bring the boat in when you are at 15-20% remaining. LVC is designed to be a safety net and if you are hitting it at all you are running the boat too long.

rickwess
05-24-2013, 10:16 AM
PS, use a timer... you should be calculating how much capacity is left in your packs and bring the boat in when you are at 15-20% remaining. LVC is designed to be a safety net and if you are hitting it at all you are running the boat too long.
Or I could program my LVC to 3.2V/cell and make life so much easier.

Like I noted above, LVC voltage is my biggest issue. There are always compromises with stock electronics to achieve cost goals. If it was programmable for LVC, it'd be running it until it died.

jetskier
05-24-2013, 11:53 AM
There are always compromises with stock electronics to achieve cost goals. that goes with aftermarkets too. stretching the profit margin. that's why it's all made in China or better.. engineer in the US and made in China.

tlandauer
05-24-2013, 02:11 PM
I second Fluid's comment... I have a demanding OPC tunnel, and I use the UL1 motor in it. My seaking 120A ESC could not handle it-- caps fried. Replaced it with the "lowly" Aquacraft 60A ESC and it works great.

I just had a new p-spec limited hydro built by Randy at BBY, using UL1 motor it. Fastest boat in my fleet. Uses the AQ 60A ESC. I also like the fact that is is super water resistant.

Chief

PS, use a timer... you should be calculating how much capacity is left in your packs and bring the boat in when you are at 15-20% remaining. LVC is designed to be a safety net and if you are hitting it at all you are running the boat too long.
This is very good info for me, not about the LVC, but about the robustness of the AQ ESC, I too have problems with my Tunnel on the caps of Seaking 120 ESC, added a cap pack, was great, now I have a second Tunnel, ML PS-295, will be hard to add a capbank due to different set up.
It is funny, never had a broblem with the Seaking 120 ESC on all my other boats, but I think for some reason with the driving style ( more part throttle thru the turns) the ESC is working harder.
Guess I will be buying a AQ ESC after all.:banana:

BHChieftain
05-25-2013, 01:49 AM
Or I could program my LVC to 3.2V/cell and make life so much easier.

Like I noted above, LVC voltage is my biggest issue. There are always compromises with stock electronics to achieve cost goals. If it was programmable for LVC, it'd be running it until it died.

(I made a similar comment on a different thread, sorry if I"m repeating myself...)
I don't think voltage is a reliable way to determine remaining pack capacity. If you are trying to target 20% in reserve to avoid over-discharge damage to the packs, then it will be very hard to find a reliable voltage that correlates to that 20%. It is much more accurate to measure runtime and measure actual MAH put back into the packs.

Chief

Doby
05-25-2013, 09:16 AM
(I made a similar comment on a different thread, sorry if I"m repeating myself...)
I don't think voltage is a reliable way to determine remaining pack capacity. If you are trying to target 20% in reserve to avoid over-discharge damage to the packs, then it will be very hard to find a reliable voltage that correlates to that 20%. It is much more accurate to measure runtime and measure actual MAH put back into the packs.

Chief


Exactly..Its an unreliable way that gives a false sense of security....:tiphat:

mannytx1
05-25-2013, 10:36 AM
999809998199982Hi, Mike grimracer zaborowski
I think there are serious problems with the design of the rudder, the water pickup hole is very high, need 1 inch below ( the water pickup hole should be no less than one inch below the keel) very small rudder, a minimum recommended length is 1 times the diameter of its support below Lx 15% 30”x15% = 4,5” minimum. (REVOLT 30 ONLY 4")
LVC not protects the batteries
thank you very much

Manny

Doby
05-25-2013, 11:55 AM
How is this a serious problem??? Where do you get your formulas from?

jetskier
05-25-2013, 12:07 PM
again..I'm still new to RC Boating. My Revolt turns like it's on rails, motor and ESC is always just warm. compare to my SV27 where is turns like a jacked up 4X4, motor and ESC is always hot. both running on single 4S lipo

Doby
05-25-2013, 03:02 PM
Some people look for problems that don't exist.

GixerGuy1978
06-28-2013, 05:40 PM
Yes, it seems timing is important. I'm going to finish the season with the stock ESC and keep it to around 5 minutes. Next spring I'll probably get the bug to upgrade some parts and an adjustable ESC is on my short list. Two friends in our club have ProBoat Mystics. This is how there ESC's work. If they happen to run too long and the boat stops they let it sit for approximately one minute and then it will run again very slow, but enough to get to shore. I'm guessing it's because the LVC is set higher and the batteries can recover slightly, but this is a guess on my part. I could be all wrong, but would like to experiment, it’s a hobby, right.
Ok guys, the HK Nano-tech's have a longer power voltage/amp consistant curve before they just drop out. And they really drop out! So much so that the AQ ESC is going into this shut down feature instead of just the LVC feature. The traits of these nano-techs in general are just the problem you are having with the studder bump feature of the AQ ESC. And I agree, the LVC may be set too low with this particular ESC, and that combined with the nano-tech's not really restablishing a returning voltage bounce high enough to copy what other guys are being able to do, and that is to wait a bit and they'll re-arm themselves and they can bring their boats to shore. AQ ESC are great for P-class racing as I've been using them for years with no issues, but as always, you have to monitor temps of both your motor and ESC to keep everything in check/balance for a reliable power system. That and time your runs so that you don't get into this 'dead in the water' problem.

Bomber Z
07-16-2013, 11:04 AM
Back in the day we used a stop watch to clock how long the boat has run.

Bomber Z
07-16-2013, 11:26 AM
SV 27 was built to use 2 batteries. That's why It handled like a 4x4 using a single batt. The centerline becomes off balance with a mm of battery being to one side or the other. Up grade to both turn fin's and trim tabs the SV27 handles as well as the Revolt.
again..I'm still new to RC Boating. My Revolt turns like it's on rails, motor and ESC is always just warm. compare to my SV27 where is turns like a jacked up 4X4, motor and ESC is always hot. both running on single 4S lipo

Bomber Z
07-16-2013, 12:21 PM
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=de-liposhld-32&cat=52
These have worked for me. Run on the SV27 45amp ESC with lipo batt no problem...