Whiplash Sport 40 Build

[detox]

The instructions for this kit are really vague so you have to build by photographs supplied in instructions. I got the framing done and bottom sheet glued on. Now I am trying to decide if I should build up sponson ridepad height. Cross piece shaded in Red WILL NOT be removed so that the two Neu 8300mah 3s (6s1p) will fit. These packs will also fit my modded 34" Whiplash 20. It will be interesting to see which of these two hulls compair best against each other after completion.

This is my first Whip 40, so any good building suggestions are welcomed.

[Chilli]

I'll be watching this build Keith. I keep going back and forth between a Q-Sport Whip or a gas Backlash for my next build. Get Doug to build one so we can show the IC guys what FE's are really capable of next year in Atlanta. I can already race Q-Sport in my district with the nitro Sport 40's.

Man cannot live by P-Limited alone!! :buttrock:

[detox]

I'll have two Q hulls ready if you or Doug ever wants to give it a try. Too many classes allready...maybe one day.

[detox]

These are the Neu 3s 8300mah lipos (190mm long, 48mm wide, 30mm height). Fit will be easy once cross piece is removed.

[battlefury]

I'll be watching this build Keith. I keep going back and forth between a Q-Sport Whip or a gas Backlash for my next build. Get Doug to build one so we can show the IC guys what FE's are really capable of next year in Atlanta. I can already race Q-Sport in my district with the nitro Sport 40's.

Man cannot live by P-Limited alone!! :buttrock:

I consider backlash quite a whelm to construct. the results was well worth the time. I drove this boat thru 3-4 inch chops, its was like "anytime anyday i can handle it" with a minor strut setting of course.
I did the built in a 3 room apartment and i hope this inspires you to bulid one too.

82259 82260

[Chilli]

The thought of building a Whip or Backlash terrifies me but so did my first JAE and it came out pretty good. The second one even better. I may give it a shot. So far I have build every boat my son and I race and I take pride in that. Thanks for the motivation!!

Sorry Detox. Back to the Q Sport build.

[detox]

The thought of building a Whip or Backlash terrifies me but so did my first JAE and it came out pretty good. The second one even better. I may give it a shot. So far I have build every boat my son and I race and I take pride in that. Thanks for the motivation!!

Sorry Detox. Back to the Q Sport build.

Backlash is a cool hull and you will find that at most every racing event it can be entered. So if you are a serious racer the Backlash is a smart move.

[jcald2000]

It MAY NOT be legal next year with the new rules being discussed.

[Chilli]

I think the rule proposal they are working on is for nitro boats. I think it's too late to do anything for gas boats. To many Backlash's, Whip GV's and Insane Mobsters on the water to change now.

[detox]

I received from Phillip his newest version Stealth hydro. Looks alot like my Whiplash 20. Notice big change to sponson tips.

Now back to the Whip 40 build.

[oscarel]

Hey Keith, a couple other things I've done are in red on this photo. With these removed I'm able to get a Hydra Ice 200HV in alongside the motor. And with the red bulkhead removed you should be able to slide the lipos another 2" or so forward.

82361

[detox]

Hi Oscar, Did you add any weight to sponson tips. Did you build your sponson ride pads higher?

[oscarel]

I filled the tips with epoxy, about 1". More for strength than weight. I also added 2 part foam to the sponsons. I did not build up the ride pads.

[oscarel]

Do you have a turn fin yet? For extra support for the fin I epoxied a piece of 1/4" aluminum and topped it with a couple layers of fiberglass to make sure it wouldn't move. Would the shingles be another way of raising the pads later if needed?

[detox]

Yes i have the Virginia Craftsman 40 fin. I could add shingle or somthing to sponsons later if it needs it.

[Brushless55]

I consider backlash quite a whelm to construct. the results was well worth the time. I drove this boat thru 3-4 inch chops, its was like "anytime anyday i can handle it" with a minor strut setting of course.
I did the built in a 3 room apartment and i hope this inspires you to bulid one too.

82259 82260

I would love to see one of those in Brushless!

[jcald2000]

Howard Tucker has a 2220 NUE in the gas whip = Rocket!!!

[detox]

I placed all hardware in boat, and moved everything around until i got CG close to turnfin. I decided not to remove front bulkhead because CG would have been too far forward. Especially after adding lead to front lefthand sponson.

[oscarel]

You've got the motor further back than I do. I'll have to check where mine balances when I get home, if I remember correctly I'm about 1" behind the turn fin. According to Blazer the whip isn't too sensitive to COG placement. I didn't add any extra weight to the left sponson and I don't have any issues turning at full speed.

[detox]

During hard accelleration my Neu Powered Whiplash 20 would lift the left sponson causing it to blowover. So adding lead to left sponson is just added insurance to prevent blowover and to help with COG.

[detox]

The ML Boatworks Whiplash 20 Cowl also fits the Whip 40. I heated cowl with blowdryer to get perfect flat fit.

[oscarel]

I have an Insane30 that hops in turns and I think the left sponson weight is the issue there. I'm going to add a little weight to see if I can calm it down some. But the 40 stays flat and flies through turns. Bad thing with the 40 is the only way to add weight after it's built is on top or side with stick on weights. Here's an idea, small fuel bag with a tube into the center section that you could put maybe sand or water in to add weight?????

[oscarel]

The ML Boatworks Whiplash 20 Cowl also fits the Whip 40. I heated cowl with blowdryer to get perfect flat fit.

I have one as well, but where I have my motor placed I didn't have enough clearance. Are you fabing your own motor mount?

[detox]

The motor mount is what I am working on now. Motor angle is 13 degrees and plate is mounted 10 3/4" from back edge of stern

[jcald2000]

The other soultion to lifting the left sponson might be adding .25 degrees to the Right sponson.

[battlefury]

IMO, i do not think any weight is needed to add on the sponsons. I dont recall the instructions sheet mentioned about adding weight or whatsoever. having said my whiplash is senstive to strut settings but forgiving to CG adjustments in relation to different props tested. As long as the strut settings to be about 0.75"-1" below the deck and not more than 2 degrees angle the boat will ripped the pond!

[battlefury]

i like to run them loose btw. I think it will ease amp drawn for e electronics

[detox]

i like to run them loose btw. I think it will ease amp drawn for e electronics

Of course it will.

Not much done. Using 1/32" plywood I sealed off rear compartment to keep electrics dry and better floatation. I am building this hull as lightweight as possible, but weight will be added to sponson...especially lefthand side.

[detox]

I am using the Owens Corning 3/4" Pink foam board for floatation. I cut all pieces using utility knife then shaped using 80grit sandpaper.

[detox]

For rough balance 2" behind rear sponsons I epoxied 5.7 ozs lead to lefthand sponson tip and 4.56 ozs lead to righthand sponson tip.

[oscarel]

Getting closer. Do you have a shot of the front of the sponsons? That was the toughest part of the build. I raced a club member on Monday, he had a gas rigger. Not sure if he was toying with me, but he would pull on me in the turns and I was able to pull him in the straights. He ended up getting caught in my prop wash and flipped, was a blast racing! I at one point hit a buoy and flipped but landed upright and was able to keep going.

[mtbenjamin77]

nice work. this is one the best race hydros out there IMO

[detox]

Do you have a shot of the front of the sponsons? That was the toughest part of the build.

The 1/16" plywood was difficult to bend over tips, but the medium CA glue and CA accelerator bonded it quickly without using clamps.

[detox]

I have been away on vacation so very little time to work on hull. I will try to complete cowl this weekend. Oscarel has given me some tips on how to mount cowl for easier taping (notice unique taping area of Oscars Yellow hull).

[detox]

I completed the two front cross pieces that mount between cowl and sponsons. I tried to shape them to hopefully add a little more down force.

[detox]

I cut the cowl for easier taping. Waiting for epoxy to cure.

I used 3/8" bass wood for taping area. Using compass I traced contour of deck onto wood, then cut out with band saw.

[detox]

I had this cowl laying around a couple of years so I think I finally put it to good use The standard Whiplash 20 cowl would have looked good also, but that would have cost me another $60.00. Tonight I will seal exterior wood using Z Poxy finishing resin

[detox]

I am going to try clear coating, then use color over certain areas. This should be lighter in weight than using primer and paint. Here is another interior shot (6s for oval racing, 8s for saw)

[oscarel]

Looking good!

[detox]

Thanks Oscar. I practiced spraying clear on bottom of hull. Its not perfectly smooth, but it is sealed atleast. I will spray top side in a couple days.

I thinned the high solids clear more than recommended with reducer because of my smaller 1mm paint tip and to prevent extra weight added.

[HydroMike]

Looks really good there detox might have to get that clear and try it out

[oscarel]

Detox, what does it weigh?

[detox]

Detox, what does it weigh?

Under 10lbs. I am guessing about 9.5lbs when RTR. I will post pictures when completed.

[detox]

After priming I noticed this (hand layed) cowl has LOTS of pin holes. The holes are small air bubbles trapped in resin when hatch was molded. Usually these holes or craters are only found on surface and do not go all the way thru.

Vacuum bagged fiberglass usually has way less voids or air bubbles in fiberglass.

I remember a trick Phil Thomas taught me (may have been raptor347).
"Using sharp Exacto knife open up all pin holes larger. Then smear spakling compond into all holes. I use the DAP brand in small tube. The spakling is lots easier to sand than filler. Lightly block sand with 220 then reprime".

[detox]

I decided to paint hull Yellow (lack of imagination). I scuffed the urethane clear then then sprayed urethane paint directly over without priming. I hope paint bonds well...especially around taping areas.

[detox]

Here are a couple pics showing battery compartment. This hull will easily hold two Hyperion 6s 3300mah packs (6s2p 6600mah). Or two Neu 3s 8300mah packs (6s1p 8300mah). For 8s sport running you could use two 4s 5000mah packs (8s1p 5000mah)

[detox]

Hull weighs 9.8 lbs as shown in picture. Balance point is 1.75" behind rear edge of sponsons. First I will try the NEU 1521 1y (1577kv). Then the larger 1527 1y (1250kv):smile:

[detox]

I am using the Speedmaster 40 hydro rudder and Speedmaster long flat bottom strut ( rounded off left bottom edge) with extended mono strut bracket. Servo is a basic Futaba 3004.

[Shooter]

Looks great. I like the the easy in/out servo mount. I noticed that some folks running the longer motors support the back end, and some do not. Do you have any reasons/experience as to why you went without? I'm going to start building a railmount soon, and was looking for some direction. Thanks.

[detox]

It would probably be good insurance to use extra motor support. I may make one up.

[oscarel]

I like the color!! Lets see the cowl. I like the servo mount as well. I'm going to have to do something different, mine sticks up too high.

[detox]

I purchased some Oracal 651 Black sign vinyl and cut out my windshield. Any place that makes signs has this stuff. I paid $5.00 for 12" by 24" piece. This requires some trial and error, but easier than painting. I made a photo copy of ACTUAL SIZE templete (save picture then print).

I do not like this shade of Yellow, but atleast it is glossy and hull is sealed. I wish I had painted hull light Blue metalic.

[detox]

Lipos are charging (I shortened battery wires). Final RTR hull weight 10lbs 2ozs. The chain reaction begins.

[detox]

Back from the pond. Using the x452 boat was fast. Accordind to Castle Data logger max amps pulled 200 (averaged about 130). Some say I could use up to a x457 without problem. I will try to get full 7 lap video this weekend. I am using the cheap Tactic radio/receiver.

Virginia Craftsman turnfin

[oscarel]

You did an excellent job! They are sweet. Here's a couple graphs from eagletree, x457 and 1955.

8674886749

[detox]

Those graphs a very helpful. I did view my graph from the Castle ICE, but I deleted it. I will try to post a good graph later.

[jcald2000]

0 to 62mph in 2.5 seconds, need to get it on a drag strip!! LOL

[detox]

My pond has some weeds so run time is very limited. Most everytime I brought the hull in it had weeds hanging from the rudder. I did learn one very important thing, my hull does not like strut depth deeper than 7/8"using the x452. Sponsons would run too wet if strut was set deeper than 7/8". Next I will experiment with sponson ride pads (sanding, squaring back edges, raising 1/16"- 1/8"). Hull is very stable in turns and straits. More testing before video.

[detox]

Hull was running a little too wet so I added stepped ride pads. I cut these from a board of hard maple. This raised ride height 3/32" and increased AOA 1 degree. I sealed bare areas with fast epoxy. Thin coat of urethane paint will be applied (no primer) to keep edges sharp.

After painting I will roughen up hull floor with 400 sandpaper. This will reduce water drag also.

[detox]

Today i built a setup board. This one has four legs. Next one i build will be larger and have three legs. Currently strut is set flat on board and 11/16" high. Strut angle is set using feeler gauge between strut bottom and board surface. I scribed line on side of turnfin for easy angle adjustment against board.

Dasboata prepaired a nicely thinned and slightly detunged x455 for me. Boat is very fast and stable ... capable for more speed.

[ray schrauwen]

Nice build and pics.

Did you build on just MDF flat board or jig? What turn fin is that? Turn fin dimensions?

[detox]

Turnfin is a Virgina Craftsman. demisions are 3.75" deep, 2.5" width, 5/64" thick

[ray schrauwen]

Thank you very much. I tried contacting him once with no answer yet. Maybe I'll try again.

[detox]

I emailed Dick Tyndal of Virginia Craftsman and ordered this turnfin. I received it about 5 months later. Contact him by calling and get on his list. He may delete most recent emails concerning fins.

[ray schrauwen]

When you say it was running too wet, do you mean that it could go faster or that components were heating up?


Hull was running a little too wet so I added stepped ride pads. I cut these from a board of hard maple. This raised ride height 3/32" and increased AOA 1 degree. I sealed bare areas with fast epoxy. Thin coat of urethane paint will be applied (no primer) to keep edges sharp.

After painting I will roughen up hull floor with 400 sandpaper. This will reduce water drag also.

[ray schrauwen]

I'm just straightening out some stringers & bulkheads as the 2nd hand kit I bought was warped from poor storage. Just a heat gun then hand manipulation and then some weight until it cooled.

[detox]

Ray, On my first couple runs I had my strut adjusted too deep causing sponsons to plow into water (grab and go, grab and go). I readjusted the strut shallower and boat now runs more smoothly and skims more lightly across the water. Hull is now faster and pulls less amps. Stepped ride pads work really well also.

This hull is a challenge to build, but well worth the effort. The next one i build will have a little less weight added to both sponsons.

[oscarel]

Keith where did you end up speed wise?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[Brushless55]

Ray, On my first couple runs I had my strut adjusted too deep causing sponsons to plow into water (grab and go, grab and go). I readjusted the strut shallower and boat now runs more smoothly and skims more lightly across the water. Hull is now faster and pulls less amps. Stepped ride pads work really well also.

This hull is a challenge to build, but well worth the effort. The next one i build will have a little less weight added to both sponsons.

do you mind sharing your strut depth that is working for you?

[detox]

Strut depth is 3/4" from bottom of edge stern to bottom edge of strut. I am using a stock Octura x455. I have not clocked speed....in 60's maybe?

[meangenesracing]

can you tell me what motor you decided to go with the 1521 or the 1527? and it looks like you used the neu 3s lipos what were your run times any video?

[ray schrauwen]

Stringers are flattened out now, getting building board ready.

Great build thread. Time to contact D.Tyndall for fins...

[HOTWATER]

Stringers are flattened out now, getting building board ready.

Great build thread. Time to contact D.Tyndall for fins...

Might be a while before you get a fin from Dick...he is currently recovering from shoulder surgery....

-Kent

[oscarel]

Might be a while before you get a fin from Dick...he is currently recovering from shoulder surgery....

-Kent

Yep, that's what he told me as well. Said it would be late December and maybe later.

[ray schrauwen]

Bummer. I wish I could remember who the guy was that made the CNC turn fin on my PTSS Hydro..?? I could look back in paypal I guess...

[detox]

One day it will arrive unexpectedly. My latest 40 fin did not come with bracket.

Ray, Can you post pictures of your build?

[ray schrauwen]

I will try. Some of the pieces I'm not sure where they go so, I'll need help from the owner of this thread.

[HOTWATER]

Would love to see some pics of your build Ray...no matter what stage...

Btw...Mike Hughes (IW forums) has made me a couple of fins...very good work but (no offense meant)...Dick's fins are worth the wait!! Absolutely beautiful!!

[ray schrauwen]

That's the guy, I think, Mike Hughes. What is his contact info just in case? I will probably wait for Mr. T's turn fins but, it's good to have a backup. I have Mike's on my PTSS, very nice and came with tuning instructions :cool2:

[HOTWATER]

That's the guy, I think, Mike Hughes. What is his contact info just in case? I will probably wait for Mr. T's turn fins but, it's good to have a backup. I have Mike's on my PTSS, very nice and came with tuning instructions :cool2:

Hmmm...I will have to get on my PC for contact info...I will get it for you ....

Just took 1st place at our last D.12 race beating out three JAE's (FE, nitro and twin) with my Rigged Insanity with one of Mike Hughes fins on it!!!

-Kent

[HOTWATER]

Just PM'd him for his info Ray....

Sorry about the thread jack Detox...please forgive me :)

-Kent

[HOTWATER]

Here you go Ray...Mike's contact info:

MHardware47@comcast.net

[detox]

The next Whip 40 i build will have the original Whiplash cowl. Build them liteweight...you can allways add weight later. My Whip 40 is most stable and fun. The larger props are also easier to modify...i like the Octura X series.

[ray schrauwen]

Thank you!


Here you go Ray...Mike's contact info:

MHardware47@comcast.net

[ray schrauwen]

I glued the doubler bulkheads together and laid out the main parts. Do you tack it up first including all the sponson framing or can you glue the bottom on with out tacking up all the sponson pieces?

I may take some pics or start my own thread soon.

Did you buy your Speedmaster strut from OSE or direct Rossisales? 1/4" drive or 3/16"? I figure 1/4".

[ray schrauwen]

Thanks. I got a hold of Dick Tyndall and he said he would fix me up by the time the snow melts here.



Here you go Ray...Mike's contact info:

MHardware47@comcast.net

[oscarel]

I glued the doubler bulkheads together and laid out the main parts. Do you tack it up first including all the sponson framing or can you glue the bottom on with out tacking up all the sponson pieces?

I may take some pics or start my own thread soon.

Did you buy your Speedmaster strut from OSE or direct Rossisales? 1/4" drive or 3/16"? I figure 1/4".

Ray, do you have the instructions? I can email them to you if you don't. You would be on step 6 and you should have everything dry fitted except for the outside pieces of the sponsons.

STEP #5: Using the following picture for reference, dry fit all the pieces together to check fitment. Sand or adjust anything to ensure a good fit. Keep this in mind when putting on the front formers, the bottom of the formers between the engine rails will always be flush with the bottoms of the engine rails.

STEP #6: Now measure from the front tip of the engine rail back to the opposite corner (diagonally) of the transom. Do this on both sides. These measurements should be the same, meaning the boat is square! Once you have done this, start tacking the boat together with CA to hold things in place. Do not completely glue the pieces, use just enough glue to hold things together. We will epoxy the joints at a later step. Also using some scrap ply glue triangle pieces in the corners where the sides meet the transom. You can see these in the following photo! This gives this area much more strength than just that small butt joint. We will come back later and epoxy it all together.

[ray schrauwen]

If they are different from Blazers website sure I'll take them. Your first 2 pictures help a lot! since the manual shows an old version or a Whip21?? The sponson bulkheads are different from instructions but, same as yours. Seeing the bottoms of the un-skinned sponsons would have been a help but, you are done already. It's not rocket science and I've built a 21 before so, I'll get it.

[oscarel]

Sorry, what I posted was for the gas whip. Here's the instructions http://www.blazermarine.com/Instructions/sport40kits.pdf

[ray schrauwen]

link dead, maybe he's having a sale like many others?

[detox]

I glued the doubler bulkheads together and laid out the main parts. Do you tack it up first including all the sponson framing or can you glue the bottom on with out tacking up all the sponson pieces?

I may take some pics or start my own thread soon.

Did you buy your Speedmaster strut from OSE or direct Rossisales? 1/4" drive or 3/16"? I figure 1/4".

I bought directly from Rossisales and i use a 3/16" drive.

[oscarel]

link dead, maybe he's having a sale like many others?

Not sure what was wrong, I redid and it works now.It's the link from the sport40 page at the bottom.

[ray schrauwen]

Got it tacked up on the board and the bottom is cut, laid in place, clamped at front, weight on rest. I'm adding 1/8th strips then tacking it down today.

Is it o.k. if I epoxy the inside before tacking up the sponson pieces?

Step #8 is confusing since my parts are not numbered I don't understand what is frame #8 ??

Here: Step #8:. Tack the #8 frame, as shown in figure 4 (previous page). The tip of the frame
will taper in towards the inner sponson, while the vertical edge is in line with the outer
edge of frame #7. (If the frame bows in towards the inner sponson, temporarily place a
wedge to push the frame out)

I'm not there yet but, I'm a tad confused. If I had the numbers of the pieces I would be o.k. I think....

[oscarel]

See shooter's #6 and 7.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?44830-Whiplash-40-Q-Sport

[ray schrauwen]

Thank you, I get it now, just like my 21.

[ray schrauwen]

So may I ask what timing you used for the motor and what MAH batts did you settle on so far? Thanks for all the help. I'll start a new thread soon of my own.

[detox]

I "think" i used standard timing with the Neu 1527 1y motor and two Neu 3s 8300mah packs. Prop is a Octura X455 with some tongue removed. The x series props have less slippage, jump on plain and drive thru turns faster. Add a little cup for faster speeds.

[ray schrauwen]

How much weight have you added and where?

Bottom all done & sponsons done. Just epoxied the inside of one sponson with some chopped glass an some pieces of carbon Kevlar cloth. I'm jamming epoxy & chopped glass into the tips and nooks and crannies.

[detox]

For rough balance 2" behind rear sponsons I epoxied 5.7 ozs lead to lefthand sponson tip and 4.56 ozs lead to righthand sponson tip.

Although hull is very stable, sometimes I think i added too much weight to tips. The next build will be a little lighter.

I bet my hull (or prop) is faster than Shooter's :w00t:

Just kidding, but it would be fun to see.

[Shooter]

Are those bullets??? lol. Stay out of this guys way!!! :laugh:

Ray, I forgot.....I did add weight to the front via epoxy. Both tips are filled, but that's it.

[detox]

I like casting my own bullets also. Those are RCBS 500 grain 45/70 bullets that I shoot in my Browning 1885 BPCR High Wall.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/


...

[ray schrauwen]

I have epoxied the inside of the right sponson. I added chopped glass jammed into the sponson tips and other areas to make fillets. I'll do the left sponson tonight then I can skin the top.

I used a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum for turn fin backer like you guys did, also adding 1/4" aluminum to inside of right tub side so I can bolt the turn fin to something for adjustment as this kit was not close to 100% straight.

I'll toss up some pics later hopefully. Looks kinda messy but, it's going to be strong. The only weight I'll add is epoxy plus chopped glass and the same weight of aluminum to the left side to offset what I added for the turn fin.

Thinking Dinogy 6S 4000Mah x2... Hobby King is out of a popular Aspec Nano 4500Mah 65C 3S packs, they are the boat specific ones.

[detox]

Why not two 8300mah 3s packs or 6s1p. IMO 3s is less troublesome, easier to balance because of less cells and weigh less.

http://www.neumotors.com/Site/Battery_Specs.html

QUESTION ... Will 8300mah be enough capacity for a six lap heat race? I have never tried it.

[oscarel]

Should be plenty, guys here are running with 6600 packs.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[ray schrauwen]

I know you use Neu packs and they must work or else you wouldn't use them but, 35C?? it seems so low that I could just buy a $88 HK Zippy 8000MAh 30C pack and make do. I know, apples and oranges....

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=16225




Why not two 8300mah 3s packs or 6s1p. IMO 3s is less troublesome, easier to balance because of less cells and weigh less.

http://www.neumotors.com/Site/Battery_Specs.html

QUESTION ... Will 8300mah be enough capacity for a six lap heat race? I have never tried it.

[detox]

I know they never got hot or puffy during testing, but I have never ran them in a six lap heat race during middle of summer. I just wonder how much boat will slow down near end of heat race because of less voltage (8,300 mah vs. 10,000 mah)

[ray schrauwen]

Well, I still have time to work it all out. Thanks for the input.