Looking for Offshore Warrior or similar

[CP598]

First off, I want to say hello and that I am new to the forum. Been lurking on and off for a few years and finally joined. It's a great forum, with a lot of great information. I was into RC trucks, then planes, now it's boats again!! I had a Prather tunnel with a K&B outboard that a ran many, many years ago. I am now looking for a FE boat. I am looking for a mini v hull, something like the Offshore Warrior or anything similar, up to about 22" or so. I live in the U.S.A. so it is difficult to find the Joysway boats. The Aquacraft Mini Mono is a little less than what I am looking for. My budget is very low, about $200, just seeing if this is something I will enjoy and actually do for more than a few months. If so, my budget will increase. I already have a charger and some small lipo's, and I am fine with purchasing some more batteries if needed. Any advice on a boat?

Thanks in advance.

[MassiveOverkill]

You need it to be self-righting?

Free shipping:

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Joysway-Super-Mono-2_4ghz-X-Brushless-Powered-Rc-Boat-p-46934.html?p=F614210487522012019E

Add a 60 amp ESC and Boca ceramic bearings and you're good to go (stock ESC willl eventually burn out, Boca ceramic are for insurance).

My boat:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu3pqnpnQew

[CP598]

You need it to be self-righting?

Free shipping:

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Joysway-Super-Mono-2_4ghz-X-Brushless-Powered-Rc-Boat-p-46934.html?p=F614210487522012019E

Add a 60 amp ESC and Boca ceramic bearings and you're good to go (stock ESC willl eventually burn out, Boca ceramic are for insurance).

My boat:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu3pqnpnQew

Wow... thought I might get more than 1 reply. Thanks for the reply Massive, I have considered the SMX, however, I would really like the Offshore Warrior. Wish I could find a supplier.

[MassiveOverkill]

I'm in the same boat (pun intended). Aaron does carry the Offshore Warrior, and it's probably the best price you're going to get with free shipping:

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Joysway-B-js-9301-Offshore-Warrior-Rc-Boat-p-46903.html

If you do plan on buying this boat from him, hold off though as there's the Warrior 2, which is guaranteed self-righting and has some improvements. I'll contact him to see if he can get the updated SKU.

Oh, and on the limited response: Many here prefer to support US vendors and frown on sending money to China, which I have nothing against and admire, but for those that are getting into the hobby, the US market models lack some very important features that Joysway have, such as self-righting. I don't think people realize how important this is to a beginner or casual boater. If the Aquacraft models had this I probably would have bought one. It's much easier to take a nice hull design and rip the guts out and put quality components than it is to redesign a poor hull design loaded with quality components or try and glass in a flood chamber.

Of the US models that are self-righting, many use hatch tape to keep water out\secure the hatch. I'm all for using hatch tape as an additional measure to water proof a setup.......I'm against it as a dependent means. It's a PITA to seal\remove tape when you're doing multiple runs.

I have had more luck in convincing Chineese vendors to improve their product than I have US vendors, which are a little too prideful to listen to their customers, or maybe it's a cost issue to change a design.

[BILL OXIDEAN]

First off, I want to say hello and that I am new to the forum. Been lurking on and off for a few years and finally joined. It's a great forum, with a lot of great information. I was into RC trucks, then planes, now it's boats again!! I had a Prather tunnel with a K&B outboard that a ran many, many years ago. I am now looking for a FE boat. I am looking for a mini v hull, something like the Offshore Warrior or anything similar, up to about 22" or so. I live in the U.S.A. so it is difficult to find the Joysway boats. The Aquacraft Mini Mono is a little less than what I am looking for. My budget is very low, about $200, just seeing if this is something I will enjoy and actually do for more than a few months. If so, my budget will increase. I already have a charger and some small lipo's, and I am fine with purchasing some more batteries if needed. Any advice on a boat?

Thanks in advance.

The reason its so difficult to get the joysway boats is because distribution is changing. A major US distributor has become exclusive with joysway. They are letting all previous stock with small companies run dry.
You soon will be able to get all joysway boats Very easy : )

I've found a few warriors by looking EXTREMELY hard.
The joysway boats are hard to beat. The warrior is Amazing in fact, I hold 2 records with it!
No tiny mono handles as well at the speeds it reaches. Near Everyone at my local pond has one. They race them..

[martin]

I know this dosnt help but here in the UK joysway boats are very easy to get, i think a lot of people over look Joysway boats as the dont seem to have the kudose of some other makes of boats so dont even bother trying them. I can confirm what Bill is saying re the Warrior, you wont find a v hull iraspective of price that will handle any where near as well as the Joysway v hulls. Also if you do push the speeds on the Warrior with mods it runs as straight as an arrow right up on the v with no wash or spray coming off the hull just prop wash. A lot of other micro monos wont reach the speeds the warrior can without flipping & flopping around once past a certain speed. Also the X Blaze is is a very handy boat to have if you want something like the Warrior in every way but a little larger. Martin.

[BILL OXIDEAN]

I'm in the same boat (pun intended). Aaron does carry the Offshore Warrior, and it's probably the best price you're going to get with free shipping:

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Joysway-B-js-9301-Offshore-Warrior-Rc-Boat-p-46903.html

If you do plan on buying this boat from him, hold off though as there's the Warrior 2, which is guaranteed self-righting and has some improvements. I'll contact him to see if he can get the updated SKU.

Oh, and on the limited response: Many here prefer to support US vendors and frown on sending money to China, which I have nothing against and admire, but for those that are getting into the hobby, the US market models lack some very important features that Joysway have, such as self-righting. I don't think people realize how important this is to a beginner or casual boater. If the Aquacraft models had this I probably would have bought one. It's much easier to take a nice hull design and rip the guts out and put quality components than it is to redesign a poor hull design loaded with quality components or try and glass in a flood chamber.

Of the US models that are self-righting, many use hatch tape to keep water out\secure the hatch. I'm all for using hatch tape as an additional measure to water proof a setup.......I'm against it as a dependent means. It's a PITA to seal\remove tape when you're doing multiple runs.

I have had more luck in convincing Chineese vendors to improve their product than I have US vendors, which are a little too prideful to listen to their customers, or maybe it's a cost issue to change a design.

Warrior-2? Nice!

[MassiveOverkill]

I just spoke to Aaron (well email) and he's going to try to get the Warrior 2, and hopefully all trims (RTR, ARTR, PNF). I will definately be buying one and my Super Mono X will become my new rescue boat.

On that note I've also told Aaron how important spares are and he's seing into getting the spare motor I found for the Super Mono X. He already carries other spares. I know Hobby People carry Joysway spares but they're OOS or don't have descriptions...........maybe what Bill referenced to for distribution is affecting this.

[martin]

The main parts youll need for the Offshore Warrior which are allways out of stock are the flex shafts & ball bearings that go in the strut. If you need ball bearings you have to buy the strut as well as it comes with the bearings. I buy after market ball bearings which are very cheap & the same bearings. The stock coupling is the grub screw type that dosnt hold that well after removing a number of times as the screws crush the flex, i change to an Octura collet coupling which is much better for the flex.

[CP598]

The reason its so difficult to get the joysway boats is because distribution is changing. A major US distributor has become exclusive with joysway. They are letting all previous stock with small companies run dry.
You soon will be able to get all joysway boats Very easy : )

I've found a few warriors by looking EXTREMELY hard.
The joysway boats are hard to beat. The warrior is Amazing in fact, I hold 2 records with it!
No tiny mono handles as well at the speeds it reaches. Near Everyone at my local pond has one. They race them..

A major supplier in the US sounds like a great deal, do you happen to have an expected timeframe? I have done a fair amount of research and because of that research, I have decided on the Off Shore Warrior. I have nothing against the boats offered by American suppliers, however there is nothing RTR that is compareable to the Warrior for size, speed, handling, and battery size. I wanted something that only required a battery up to 2200 mah.

Thanks to all for the reply.

[MassiveOverkill]

I actually bought my Super Mono X from a US supplier, but until the US Joysway vendors start carrying spares, my business is going to Banggood. Thanks for the suggestions Martin, did you use regular or ceramic replacement bearings. I learned something new..........I though the stinger just used bushings not bearings............makes sense though.

I see that the Warrior still uses a straight stainless stuffing tube, but the stinger is probably at a different angle. That means my straight shafts will have to have flex tips at both ends.

Martin, I take it you no longer own the Warrior because you moved up to bigger boats and really have nothing bad to say about the Warrior?

[martin]

No i still have the Warrior ( non stock ), its a great little boat to take out now & again. Thinking about it its probably the most fun boat as it self rights immidiatelly so you can be stupid with it. The Warrior uses a stainless tube that is curved, this helps stabalize the flex in the tube + the strut is adjustable but normally runs paralel with the bottom of the hull (i run mine up at the prop end just to loosen the hull off further). The ball bearings i use in the strut are chrome steel ( same as the originals), the ones i use are for rc car axles but their just stock ball bearings. their also dirt cheap as well so you can change them out when nessesary as i run on salt water but not a problem. They withsand things ok considering im running mine at 42000 rpm unloaded. Martin.

[MassiveOverkill]

Thanks Martin...........well I guess I have more work ahead of me if I want my straight shaft setup as I'll have to replace the stuffing tube. Flex tips at both ends is definately going to be a must if I go for the straight shaft mod.

[BILL OXIDEAN]

A quick note that I know Martin will particularly appreciate is that the new joysWay models feature a new type of composite resin.
The previous warriors were quite brittle, but now they're using a resin more like the delta force models, maybe even better. I have a prototype hull that smacked concrete at 70 and didn't crack!

[martin]

The problem your going to have useing a straight stuffing tube & shaft is the transition at the parallel strut, even if you had a flex in this area the change in angle would be to great & to short a length in the bend area. The flex would break, if you run a straight shaft their is a lot of negative angle on the strut pushing the bow down which will affect speed & handling over the parallel drice angle. Martin.

[MassiveOverkill]

Well bullocks!!

[MassiveOverkill]

Bill have you had a chance to test out the Bullet? http://www.joysway-hobby.com/Product_show.asp?proid=506

My next boat is going to be another Joysway, either the Bullet or Offshore Warrior. They're about the same price. I know the Bullet is plastic while the Warrior is glass.

[BILL OXIDEAN]

Haven't tried one yet, but believe me I'm interested..

[CP598]

Bill.... or anyone else that can answer this question. What type of connectors does the Offshore Warrior have on the ESC from the factory?

Thanks.

[martin]

Bill.... or anyone else that can answer this question. What type of connectors does the Offshore Warrior have on the ESC from the factory?

Thanks.
Deans.

[CP598]

Deans.

Thanks Martin.

[CP598]

Looky what the postman delivered today!

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q240/CP598/RC%20Boat/IMG_0831.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q240/CP598/RC%20Boat/IMG_0832.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q240/CP598/RC%20Boat/IMG_0833.jpg

[MassiveOverkill]

Nice, where'd ya order from?

[CP598]

Ebay

[MassiveOverkill]

This one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Brushless-Powered-Mini-Deep-Vee-Racing-Boat-Water-Cooling-Plug-N-Play-/370626690393?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3 D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D1549663198437964943%26pid%3 D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26

Man, waiting for Joysway stock to deplete so they can do their 'launch' is taking too long.

[CP598]

This one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Brushless-Powered-Mini-Deep-Vee-Racing-Boat-Water-Cooling-Plug-N-Play-/370626690393?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3 D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D1549663198437964943%26pid%3 D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26

Man, waiting for Joysway stock to deplete so they can do their 'launch' is taking too long.

Yep... ordered on Monday, arrived on Thursday to WA. state. The price was a little higher than I had hoped to pay, but I was tired of waiting for someone in the states to be a distributor.

[MassiveOverkill]

Thanks, I may order one myself since I already have TX/RX I can reuse.

[CP598]

Thanks, I may order one myself since I already have TX/RX I can reuse.

As you can see, they may only have a few left.

[MassiveOverkill]

Hey CP, is the stuffing tube on yours curved as Martin said it would be or straight? Curious how much the bottom of the hull has changed compared to the original Warrior.

Also it seems to have this motor:

http://www.emaxmodel.com/views.asp?hw_id=246

Can you determine if it has any markings to verify or if you can visually inspect if it's the 6, 8 , or 11 motor (I believe those numbers may refer to the number of pole magnets). Maybe it even has the KV rating somewhere on the can itself.

Good to know that spares are cheap:

http://www.valuehobby.com/xyh-b2445-brushless-inrunner-motor.html

Thanks.

[martin]

The motor used in the Offshore Warrior is an FSD 2445 3000kv with 3.17mm ( .125" ) shaft. Martin.

[martin]

83258This is the stuffing tube removed from a Offshore Warrior showing the curve.

[MassiveOverkill]

Thanks Martin, I wasn't doubting you but since the Mk2 has a new hull design I wasn't sure if they kept everything else the same. Actually can you tell from Ebay link of the bottom of the hull if it looks much different from yours?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Brushless-Powered-Mini-Deep-Vee-Racing-Boat-Water-Cooling-Plug-N-Play-/370626690393?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3 D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D1549663198437964943%26pid%3 D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26

I'm assuming you had the first revision or did you have the 2nd one?

Thanks.

[martin]

I believe the hull bottoms are the same, ive looked at the mk2 boats & they appear identical on the bottom. The big diff is in the deck & hatch, the deck slopes up much higher putting the modified hatch higher still. Also the rear of the hatch now sits in the recease rather than going to the back of the hull, they have also made access appature longer at the front making getting the battery easier to get in & do the velcro straps easier. I believe the higher deck & higher hatch is to make self righting better.

[MassiveOverkill]

OK, makes sense. I see EmpireRC now has all their Joysway line showing everything in stock (too bad they don't carry the Offshore Warrior). This is a good sign as they've been out of stock for months. I wonder if Steve will carry any Joysway.

http://www.empirerc.com/rc-boats-c-226.html

[3b3b]

If anyone knows of a US retailer that has the OSW, please post. Thanks.

[MassiveOverkill]

I just noticed that your box is labelled 9301B, it really should be 9304. I'm wondering if other vendors really are selling the Mk2 under the old SKU#

[CP598]

I just noticed that your box is labelled 9301B, it really should be 9304. I'm wondering if other vendors really are selling the Mk2 under the old SKU#

Interesting....

[MassiveOverkill]

Wish me luck, hopefully I'll get the Mk2:

http://www.ordersmax.com/p-14075598983-Spot-sea-warrior-9301-JOYSWAY-2.4G-3-channel-remote-control-speed-boat-fiberglass-50-kilometers-per-hour.html

[CP598]

Wish me luck, hopefully I'll get the Mk2:

http://www.ordersmax.com/p-14075598983-Spot-sea-warrior-9301-JOYSWAY-2.4G-3-channel-remote-control-speed-boat-fiberglass-50-kilometers-per-hour.html

Picture shows it's a Mk2.

Heres a link to Leadershobby picture shows first generation.
https://www.leaderhobby.com/list.asp?type=Brand&categories=87&brand=JOYSWAY

[martin]

Wish me luck, hopefully I'll get the Mk2:

http://www.ordersmax.com/p-14075598983-Spot-sea-warrior-9301-JOYSWAY-2.4G-3-channel-remote-control-speed-boat-fiberglass-50-kilometers-per-hour.html
Any idea how much they charge for shipping to you.

[rabosi]

I took the plunge on one from ordersmax also. Shipping was $12.76 fedex to NY. We shall see. BTW Joysway does list the model number as 9301 for the warrior. Possibly the "B" represents the updated version.

[CP598]

I took the plunge on one from ordersmax also. Shipping was $12.76 fedex to NY. We shall see. BTW Joysway does list the model number as 9301 for the warrior. Possibly the "B" represents the updated version.

Wow... that's really reasonable shipping!

[3b3b]

I took the plunge on one from ordersmax also. Shipping was $12.76 fedex to NY. We shall see. BTW Joysway does list the model number as 9301 for the warrior. Possibly the "B" represents the updated version.

I see on the website that they are offering 50% off shipping. Was there a code you had to enter?

[rabosi]

No code. I didn't see the 50% but maybe it was included.

[MassiveOverkill]

Mine was also $12 shipping. 9304 is definately the Mk2 code and 9301 is the original SKU. Banggood has the pictures for the old version so I really hope that since it's supposedly coming directly from Joysway, it will be the Mk2 version.

[martin]

On their site at the top left it says 50% off shipping for new customers, re the B on the code this represents the colour ie B is black R is red Y is yellow. Also did anyone have to pay customs getting it from Ordermax. It may be the case that they allready have boxes with the old code on that they are using up but have the mk2 boats in them.

[MassiveOverkill]

My PayPal was only charged 169.xx shipped. Rabosi, you know this comes without radio or batteries right?

[MassiveOverkill]

I hope Joysway's new US distributor isn't a place like HobbyTown. Bill, can you clue us into who the major distributor is going to be? EmpireRC?

[martin]

My PayPal was only charged 169.xx shipped. Rabosi, you know this comes without radio or batteries right?
Are you sure it comes without radio as in the discription it states 2.4g 3 channel. What did you put in the box that says blue, transparent etc on the order form as you have to tick one to preceed with the order.

[MassiveOverkill]

I chose black, I bet transparent is their interpretation of 'random' I'm going by the price and the comparison to the ebay one from Canada which doesn't come with radio.

If you look at the products that come with a radio, there is a seperate picture of the TX itself. Als consider the Super Mono X is the same price as the Warrior (well actually a little more)..........Warrior should be much more expensive if it came with a radio.

[rabosi]

................................... 9304 is definately the Mk2 code and 9301 is the original SKU. Banggood has the pictures for the old version so I really hope that since it's supposedly coming directly from Joysway, it will be the Mk2 version.

I was just going by Joysway's website. They have the updated boat picture with 9301 model #. http://www.joysway-hobby.com/Product_show.asp?proid=472

[rabosi]

My PayPal was only charged 169.xx shipped. Rabosi, you know this comes without radio or batteries right?

Wasn't sure but I have many radio options. My two Super Mono X met a sad end in the Keys so I have one rx/tx set from those that I can use also. Either way I think it's a good deal. I see the interior is black. Wonder if it's carbon fiber or just paint?

[MassiveOverkill]

Sorry to hear that, what happened to them? Anything else salvageable?

[rabosi]

Don't want to hijack this thread. I will post on your thread at rcgroups when I get a chance. Kind of a long story too.

[MassiveOverkill]

NP rabosi.......I just got my tracking# Shows estimated delivery date as Sept 5th................from China?!?! If it actually arrives on Tuesday I'll sh!t bricks.

[rabosi]

Can't beat that for the price if it arrives that quickly. I guess mine should be sometime next week too.

[MassiveOverkill]

I've never gotten anything from China this fast:

Left FedEx origin facility GUANGZHOU CN Aug 29, 2012

Sep 1, 2012 6:24 AM At destination sort facility ORLANDO

[martin]

Sounds good.

[martin]

I've never gotten anything from China this fast:

Left FedEx origin facility GUANGZHOU CN Aug 29, 2012

Sep 1, 2012 6:24 AM At destination sort facility ORLANDO
Any reason you went with Fedex over DHL on their choices of shipping, im in the UK so not sure what the best shippng is between the 2.

[CP598]

I've never gotten anything from China this fast:

Left FedEx origin facility GUANGZHOU CN Aug 29, 2012

Sep 1, 2012 6:24 AM At destination sort facility ORLANDO

Wow that was fast.... wish I would have found that site before I bought mine. Mine ended up costing about $30 more... oh well

[CP598]

I bought a couple of Kintec TFL props to try, with the x432 balanced and sharpened this thing is way quicker and faster!! Pretty much jumps out of the water. I need to spend a little more time detailing the prop, needs a little more balancing and could stand to be a little sharper.

[MassiveOverkill]

Wow that was fast.... wish I would have found that site before I bought mine. Mine ended up costing about $30 more... oh well

Well at least you know you got the Mk2. Although the Mk2 was pictured from Ordersmax, we won't know until mine gets here (should be Tuesday hopefully). How's the motor temps with the new prop?

Martin, all your motors in this boat were inrunners or did you try any outrunners with it with a cooling plate?

[3b3b]

What size lipos and C ratings you guys running?

[CP598]

what size lipos and c ratings you guys running?

2200 25-30c

[martin]

Using the stock 30a esc you need to be carefull on prop choices ecspecially going to metal props where theirs no flex in the blades over plastic that give a bit. You will eventually blow the esc by pushing things, then change to a higher amp esc where you will be much safer re pushing speeds.

[martin]

Most of the motors i ran were outrunners even the one that im still using now, i used 3 different make outrunners of different kv as well. Going to the motors i used you will need a different esc. I use a 60a esc, a word of warning if you use outrunners you need to make sure the battery is well secured as the spinning can of the motor is mm from the battery & the battery can shift a bit & touch the spinning can & wear into the battery. Ask me how i know, fortunatally it only wore through the shrink wrap on the battery.

[MassiveOverkill]

Thanks, did you have to retrofit a water-cooling mount for it or just ran it without water cooling the motor? I have that 3800KV motor I IM'd you about that was going to use for my Super Mono X.

The 30A will go in my Super Mono X and the SeaKing 120 will go in the Warrior, which it's better suited for.

[martin]

With the outrunners ive run mostly no water cooling plates but did make one & tried for a while, Not sure it made much difference though to cooling as i do run quite hot set ups in mine so have to watch run times. If your running higher amp esc then use higher c lipos, i use 60c, you will get more performance & be able to run larger props. The fastest props im using on my modded boat is Octura x632 sharpend & balanced & detonqued. Dont use any of this set up on stock boat, you will burn things up.

[MassiveOverkill]

I have 2 of these right now in addition to the stock 1800 that came with my Super Mono X:

http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/2200mah111v30c3sgraysongoldlipolybatterypack-p-1467.html

I don't plan on going crazy. I was happy with the speed of my Super Mono X, just not the reliability as it's nearly impossible to upgrade the motor without ripping out all the stock mounting and putting a standard mount in.

[BILL OXIDEAN]

I have 2 of these right now in addition to the stock 1800 that came with my Super Mono X:

http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/2200mah111v30c3sgraysongoldlipolybatterypack-p-1467.html

I don't plan on going crazy. I was happy with the speed of my Super Mono X, just not the reliability as it's nearly impossible to upgrade the motor without ripping out all the stock mounting and putting a standard mount in.

Will you post pics of your super mono-x?

[martin]

yes 25c or 30c are fine.

[martin]

Bill while your on do you know what kv the motor is in the X Blaze super, not the Coke can size motorwhich i know was 1800kv but the one their now fitting in the boat which is a 3660 4 pole motor. Thanks.

[MassiveOverkill]

Thanks Martin,

Here ya go bill:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1663518

[martin]

I also personally dont like grub screw couplings & use either Octura & Etti collet couplings, their kinda to the flex where as the grub screw bites into the flex & where i take my shafts out to dry & grease every time i get home im undoing & doing up the grub screw type so many times it ruins the flex. The collet type i find are more positive as well when tightened. Just my choice though.

[BILL OXIDEAN]

Thanks Martin,

Here ya go bill:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1663518


I'm gonna' use the trim tabs for a warrior build..

[martin]

Yep trim tabs are a must on the Warrior when increaseing speeds, ive used them for 2 years. Simply cant keep the modded boat on the water without them, they also help with torque roll when using larger props + the torque that an outrunner can give.

[CP598]

Using the stock 30a esc you need to be carefull on prop choices ecspecially going to metal props where theirs no flex in the blades over plastic that give a bit. You will eventually blow the esc by pushing things, then change to a higher amp esc where you will be much safer re pushing speeds.

Yep....I switched to a seaking 35a before the stock one burned up. Thinking I should have went with a 60a or bigger

[3b3b]

I also personally dont like grub screw couplings & use either Octura & Etti collet couplings, their kinda to the flex where as the grub screw bites into the flex & where i take my shafts out to dry & grease every time i get home im undoing & doing up the grub screw type so many times it ruins the flex. The collet type i find are more positive as well when tightened. Just my choice though.

Totally agree. What Octura collet will fit with the stock motor and shaft?

[martin]

I use both Octura & Etti collets, Oct 18098 1/8" to .098 or Etti Flex Hex 1/8" to .098. Both available in the OSE store.

[3b3b]

I use both Octura & Etti collets, Oct 18098 1/8" to .098 or Etti Flex Hex 1/8" to .098. Both available in the OSE store.
thanks!

[MassiveOverkill]

Well, I got her and I'm not happy. She is a Mk2 and comes without radio\receiver as suspected. My Super Mono X plastic hull is very rigid. I can squeeze the hull and canopy and not worrying about flexing. Do that with the Warrior hull and you'll hear cracking. The hull is very weak with the top deck being weaker. The gelcoat is thin and the rear hull has major hooks. You need tape to seal the canopy as the fit is horrible. Mine is once-again victim to Chineese labor and a screw for the rudder mount is misthreaded and I'm having a hell of a time getting it removed. The rudder pushrod is bent to hell.

Absolutely disgusted right now.

[martin]

I think the mk2 is a step back from the mk1, the mk1 you can use a lexan inner cover that is sealed with tape 100% waterfroof. I then also tape around the hatch as well just for more security, the hatch taping is also 100% as i dont get any water between the hatch & cover. The hulls are very thin, with the speeds & mishaps i get i glass the inside of the hulls to make them thicker & much stronger ecspecially at the front & around the deck joint. Ive hit the bottom of the lake to many times at wot in 3foot of water, by strengthening they now withstand these impacts. I also fill any hooks in any monos that needs it,i know its a pain doing this but its something i come to expect with Chinese products. I wonder if any of thses boats are seconds that their selling direct.

[rabosi]

That is disappointing. Unfortunately this can sometimes be one of the pitfalls of buying a first run product as well as buying direct from China. I'm inclined to agree with martin that maybe these are production line rejects that they are selling directly. I still have gotten any indication of shipping for mine btw.

[MassiveOverkill]

OK, so my motor is overheating. I haven't screwed with the strut angle (stock) and water is flowing through the cooling loop.

The stock strut to dog clearance is zero. I noticed that the motor is setup up that it has play to allow for shrinkage but that it's fighting magnetic force to do so. If I add play like you're supposed to, the rear ball bearing in the stinger can back out of the housing, possibly allowing water entry.

Do I run zero clearance at the stinger, or your normal flex cable width clearance? I guess I'd have to glue the rear bearing in place. Nothing is hot from the coupler back. Could it also be run times?

I'll check my motor timing too, it's probably set too advanced, Martin you remember what stock timing is on these motors?

EDIT: I had it set to 21 degrees for my outrunner and backed it down to 7.5 so we'll see later today if makes a difference.

The boat is very fast in stock form and handles better than even my Super Mono X, which is a surprise. I'm using the hatch tape and get very little water entry but I plan on rigging something up so that I won't have to use hatch tape.

Thanks.

[martin]

I dont know what timing is needed on the stock FSD 2 pole motors as i dont know whether their a D wind or y wind, as i never messed using the stock motors other than on the stock esc which is preset. Re the gap at the dog i leave around 1/16" gap + the bit of float thats in the motor shaft, if its to close the dog will bind against the bearing with flex wind up. It dosnt take much on these small low powered motors to cause problems re binding & heat.

[rabosi]

The high timing (21 deg) might be causing the heat issue. iirc 2 pole motors need even less timing than 4 poles

[martin]

Re more cooling i use a small round file on the rudder pickup hole & bring the groove to the front of the blade, even going in past the thickness at the front of the blade so that theirs a full hole facing foward. Rather than the original hole facing out at an angle from the blade to get better flow.

[MassiveOverkill]

I checked my rudder pickup and noticed the vertical bore is the diameter of the nozzle, but then shrinks down to a smaller size. I may drill it all the way through to the horizontal pickup and maybe enlarge that hole as well as Martin did, but with a drill bit.

[martin]

The horizontal hole needs its angle changing to face more foward rather than the hole going into the blade at an angle as the original hole does so opening up the horizontal hole & changing its angle helps a lot, you then end up with a longer groove right to the front of the blade for better pick up. I also open up the nipple at the top of the rudder as this restricts the flow with its smaller diam, but you limited how much larger you can go without breaking through the threaded area. Every little helps though.

[MassiveOverkill]

Well with the new timing, increased dog-stinger clearance, and opened up rudder she still overheats, not as bad but still hot to the touch. I really need to get an IR thermometer to see if she's within limits. Batteries aren't as hot though, so that's a plus. I'm wondering if I need to adjust the strut angle to get more of the hull out of the water..........she's almost too stable.

[martin]

How long are you running for at wot for it to get hot, the FSD 2 pole motors are not the most efficient motors around & do tend to run quite hot. Ive seen more fsd motors in varying sizes burn out than any other motors as their a popular motor that are fitted to rtr boats.

[martin]

The Warrior hull is a very stable hull probably more stable than most mini mono hulls around, to loosen the hull give the strut a bit of positive angle ( up prop end ). Also depends how much hook their is in the hull as it will stick to the water like glue with hook.

[CP598]

Well with the new timing, increased dog-stinger clearance, and opened up rudder she still overheats, not as bad but still hot to the touch. I really need to get an IR thermometer to see if she's within limits. Batteries aren't as hot though, so that's a plus. I'm wondering if I need to adjust the strut angle to get more of the hull out of the water..........she's almost too stable.

My motor gets warm... certainly not hot though. No matter what I did with the strut angle, I was not able to get more of the hull out of the water. I flipped the boat over and discovered a fair amount of hook. I filled in the hook with Dolphin Glaze "body filler" and sanded until flat. I ran the boat again, with the same result, hull deep in the water. Then I installed a detailedTFL x432 metal prop... wow, what a difference, now she rides on top of the water.

[MassiveOverkill]

I'm not running till LVC but I'm probably hitting 4 minutes. It sucks that they put the water outlet on the starboard side as it's hard to tell how well the water stream is coming out. Also, the battery mounting is very far forward, only bad thing about glass is that you can't unscrew the battery mount and move it more stern.

[CP598]

I read a few posts here and elsewhere that talks about battery placement. I know the manual shows the battery really far forward. I read a good place to start is about 2" from the transom. Essentially switched the rx and battery positions. I haven't timed mine, and I have only hit LVC once, but I would have to guess it's closer to 6 minutes.

[martin]

The problem is not the battery needs moving to the rear, i run my battery in the stock position. Its 5" in from the transome to the battery, the cg position needs to be 4.75" in from the transome.The boat will not run fast enough & get the hull out of the water on the stock prop which is an x430, this is why Joysway sell x432 & x435 props as upgrade props for this boat. These propswill run much faster also lifting the hull more out of the water, you need to keep an eye on run times & temps even more with these props .

[martin]

When you upgrade the esc from the 30a stock one you can then go to Octura metal props where their much thinner blades with no flex in the blades which will also be faster still with even more of the hull coming out of the water running right up on the v with no chine walk at all. Once you get past a certain point though you will need to add trim tabs to the hull.

[MassiveOverkill]

Yeah, tried moving the battery back to the rear, boat ran pretty fast........and then overturned. Had I not stuffed some of the foam the boat came packed with into the nose, I would have been diving. Moving the battery to the back kills the self-righting. Hitting throttle won't self-right it. Time to put more foam in the back.

[CP598]

The problem is not the battery needs moving to the rear, i run my battery in the stock position. Its 5" in from the transome to the battery, the cg position needs to be 4.75" in from the transome.The boat will not run fast enough & get the hull out of the water on the stock prop which is an x430, this is why Joysway sell x432 & x435 props as upgrade props for this boat. These propswill run much faster also lifting the hull more out of the water, you need to keep an eye on run times & temps even more with these props .

This is good to know... thanks Martin. I will try moving the battery back to the front. It was a little unstable with the battery that far back.

[rabosi]

Looks like I'll be getting mine next Tuesday. What's the prop shaft dia. on this boat btw?

[MassiveOverkill]

Same as the Super Mono X Rabosi

[martin]

Looks like I'll be getting mine next Tuesday. What's the prop shaft dia. on this boat btw?
Yep 3mm diam so any 1/8" bore props.

[martin]

Looks like I'll be getting mine next Tuesday. What's the prop shaft dia. on this boat btw?
Rabosi how long is yours taking from ordering to delivery.

[rabosi]

I ordered on 8/28 and got notification of shipping 9/6. Even though the purchase is processed by Ordersmax it looks like Joysway actually ships the product...... ala Amazon I suppose.

[rabosi]

Well got mine in today, a day early. I did not notice any glaring discrepancies except that the stickers had bubbles or were raising up in certain spots. Also there was a hole on the left rear top of hull where I suppose an antenna mount should have been. I filled it with silicone since I plan on leaving the antenna inside. I will finished checking it out tomorrow and hopefully can get it in the pond on Wednesday eve. I don't think that the flexing that MassiveOverkill cited will be an issue because the hull seems very rigid along it's lines

[MassiveOverkill]

How's your canopy fit Rabosi?

[rabosi]

It actually fits pretty good. Takes a small Bit of fiddling to seat it though. I think the angle of the hatch to the
screw complicates it a bit

[rabosi]

Hey guys, well finally got my MK2 in the water. Runs the same as you guys mentioned with the stock setup. Being the first run I only did about 4 mins and all temps were less than 110F. I did get a couple tablespoons of water inside but I believe it's coming up the prop shaft since I bathtub check before and had no leaks. May have to silicone the area where the strut meets the transom. btw I used some weather seal type foam around the lip of the boat to make a seal with the canopy and had good success with it. Fully submerged in bathtub for about 20 sec and only had a couple very small drops which could have possibly fell in when I opened it up. I bought one of the TFL x432 and threw it on (not s/b). Boat seemed a tad quicker but still too low in water. Overall I'm actually happy with it. Of course I'm already contemplating my next speed upgrade.

[martin]

You need to seal where the stuffing tube goes into the strut, also on the coupling end of the stuffing tube fit a short piece of silicon water tube over the end of the tube so it seals against the flex. Foam around the hatch in my experience does not seal 100%, you still need to tape the hatch as well. Also make sure the strut is greased not only for lube purposes but it also prevents water entering & going up the stuffing tube into the boat.

[MassiveOverkill]

I put my battery back in the stock location and the damn thing still won't self-right. I'm about ready to order the Warrior motor mount and epoxy it into my Super Mono X (I really miss running my Super Mono X......the thing is unsinkable).

I've made a lexan hatch cover and it helps with water instrusion. I plan on making another lexan perimeter 'gasket' that I'll seal to the hull and give a better seal to the main lexan cover. The MK2's hatch design curves, so it's really hard to seal.

I've convinced Banggood to update their website with the MK2's pictures:

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Joysway-B-js-9301-Offshore-Warrior-Rc-Boat-p-46903.html?p=F614210487522012019E

I've also convinced them to carry the XBlaze hulls, which should be on the website soon.

Rabosi can you show pictures of your sealing setup please? Thanks.

[martin]

MassiveOverkill thats my Warrior that you responded to on Youtube, re selfrighting you must play around with them as the Warrior will not selfright out of the box. I always use higher c rated cells which are heavier to aid righting, if thats still not enough which i suspect it wont be add stick on balance weights along the edge of the deck untill it self rights. On mine i also modded the hatch with an offset raised bubble on top of the hatch, i dont have to wait for the boat to self right as it like a cork & rights instantly as you can see in the video.

[paultbg]

Hello guys,
Am I missing something here?
The price on banggood.com is 238 USD and on HK is 53 USD (and out of stock).
Are they 2 different boats?

[martin]

paultbg the HK Warrior Lite is a completally different boat to the Offshore Warrior.

[MassiveOverkill]

MassiveOverkill thats my Warrior that you responded to on Youtube, re selfrighting you must play around with them as the Warrior will not selfright out of the box. I always use higher c rated cells which are heavier to aid righting, if thats still not enough which i suspect it wont be add stick on balance weights along the edge of the deck untill it self rights. On mine i also modded the hatch with an offset raised bubble on top of the hatch, i dont have to wait for the boat to self right as it like a cork & rights instantly as you can see in the video.

Thanks Martin, I'm also wondering if my SK120 ESC, which weighs twice as much as the stock 30A ESC may be adding to the problem.


Hello guys,
Am I missing something here?
The price on banggood.com is 238 USD and on HK is 53 USD (and out of stock).
Are they 2 different boats?

Lite from Banggood:

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Joysway-Offshore-Lite-Jw-8206-Warrior-Mk_2-Rc-Boat-p-46932.html?p=F614210487522012019E
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Offshore-Lite-Warrior-2_4ghz-Rtr-Mini-Ep-Deep-Vee-Racing-Boat-p-46546.html?p=F614210487522012019E

Keep in mind that HK's shipping puts that $55 to ~$90, plus they're always out of stock.

[martin]

I now also use a SK120 esc & selfrights still, i also add 35grams in stick on balance weights + the offset bubble on the hatch.

[rabosi]

Thanks for the sealing tips Martin. I had already planned on sealing the strut area and did grease the stuffing tube. I will also try the silicone tube at the coupler. As far as the hatch seal, I think I will just re-do it when it stops keeping water out. Easy than taping every time out I think. I have not tested the self-righting yet but figured it's all about weight placement.

Massive here's a photo of my "gasket". Not the greatest work but working well right now. The adhesive is very sticky and a bit tricky to work with.


84495

[MassiveOverkill]

Where did you get that stuff Rabosi, I may stop by Ace on my way back home.

[rabosi]

I got this of a forum member Keithbradley. He also sells hatch bolt kits. I bought a bunch of different weather stripping stuff both home and automotive but the stuff he sells seem much better. A bit closer to the material on your Super Mono gasket. I actually contemplated using some silicone to adhere the SuperMono gasket since it's almost the same size but I had this stuff lying around already.

found the original posting
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?32411-Hatch-Seals-**No-more-tape!!!**&highlight=keithbradley

[rabosi]

One other thing I forgot to mention. The little hole that accepts the hatch pin has to be sealed also for this to work. I used some double sided foam tape applied from the inside and then sealed over that with silicone.

[rabosi]

Well second run with s/b tfl 432 prop was much better. Boat moves very well now. Water was a little rough and the hatch popped off the front pin even though I had a strip of tape over front area also (pin is too short). She was submerged except for nose but I was able to drive it back to shore. The hull was completely filled with water. I drained the water out put a new battery in, taped the entire hatch and off it went again. I had to do a recovery because it flipped over and would not self-right. I will have to play around with the weight. Continued running after I flipped it back. Temps after run were all under 100F. Still some small issues I have to iron out but I really like it.

here a small clip of the hatch incident.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmDhOZzG-hw

[CP598]

Same thing happened to mine with regard to the hatch and front pin "bolt" I loosened the nut and made the bolt stick into the hole farther.

[MassiveOverkill]

I've reversed my bolt so that the bolt head is inserted into the hull. I also put the sealing foam on my lexan canopy instead of the hull itself. I'll take pictures later.

[CP598]

I've reversed my bolt so that the bolt head is inserted into the hull. I also put the sealing foam on my lexan canopy instead of the hull itself. I'll take pictures later.

Thats how mine came.... with the bolt head in the hull.

[rabosi]

I may reverse mine also but I think it's pretty easy to tape this hull so I might just tape it also.

[martin]

The original Warrior was a better design where the bolt goes through the hull & the bolt head went into the hatch. Theirs still a problem with this though as the hole in the hatch is almost breaking through the edge of the hatch, i mod the hole in the hatch with an alloy plate bonded inside the hatch so the hole also goes through the alloy plate as well. My boat has dived barrel rolled etc at around 50mph hundreds of time & ive never had the hatch come off, i use a modded inside lexan cover which is 100% waterfroof + the hatch is sealed with tape also 100% sealed. In my opinion foam etc is a waste of time ,you will never get 100% seal & would never use it.

[MassiveOverkill]

I think I've found the problems to my overheating. Stock coupler's hole is too large causing wobble\vibration. I've received a lighter aluminum Joysway coupler and will bore it out to fit the larger motor shaft diameter. It's half the weight as well.

Here's my lexan cowling cover with foam gasket. I still need to seal the seams and epoxy in the bolt as the hole has already cracked:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/OffshoreWarrior/LexanCanopyFoam_zps579742c6.jpg

Warrior vs SuperMonoX:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/OffshoreWarrior/WarriorVsSMXSide_zpsfbf76082.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/OffshoreWarrior/WarriorVsSMXFront_zpsaca081ee.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/OffshoreWarrior/WarriorVsSMXCanopyHeight_zpscc69400f.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/OffshoreWarrior/WarriorVsSMXSteppedHull_zps301679f7.jpg

What makes the Super Mono X much easier to self right over the Warrior is that the beam is much narrower.

[rabosi]

Makes sense. I noticed when my boat was upside down that the prop was still in contact with water and boat responsed to throttle. Speed was very slow but enough to get back to shore if I had rudder control also. Was considering making a Frankenstein mod by extending the rudder upwards with maybe a small piece of lexan to get some rudder control upside down. Also like Martin's hatch pin reinforce mod.

[brett657]

These boots are looking interesting...i personally don't have it's experience but i searched and read that the experiences and opinions of racers that have been running that particular rc boot (http://www.nitrotek.nl/rc-boten.html) found it hard to handle it in the beginning then there is a great chance of it but when you have some experience then it always a fun....so be careful while driving it in the beginning.

[paultbg]

Where is the admin to ban this advertising guy?

[SweetAccord]

Where is the admin to ban this advertising guy?

I would not worry too much. Did you even look at what they are selling? They are plastic "toys" no one who knows anything will buy these. They are dime a dozen all over the internet and not even race quality or Lipo or brushless capable.