proboat transmitter waterproofing

[120man]

Ive had my Mystic RTR for a couple weeks now and having tons of fun with it. Still stock for now, except for seaking 60 amp esc. Im running 4s-2p 5200 total Mah. Took it to the beach and had a BLAST running in the 1 to 2 ft surf. Ive had a few runs on flat water, and done some strut adjustment, one step at a time. Not going for all out speed-yet. Waiting for a battery now, will have 2 65-130c's to put in. Sharpening and balancing the prop as best I can, talk about an art form! Ill post questions in prop talk. I was thinking about internally waterproofing the Tx, not that I need to immerse it but some oops protection might be a good idea. Has anyone tried this? I have some ducky electroseal for the job. Also, does anyone wax their boat? If so what kind do you use? The water in Lake Erie is pretty murky and I get allot of water spots so I thought protecting the finish might help. Looking forward to learning,
Jeremiah

[Fluid]

Welcome 120. I have never heard of anyone waterproofing their transmitter, although I suppose it is certainly possible to drop it in the water. As for wax, sure, use car wax on the top and sides to help keep the paint cleaner. Just keep it off the running surfaces...or not, but a light sanding is a faster finish for the bottom.



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[gtrcguru]

wish i had wp my tx. i had a woops moment last weekend. lucky no issues but wp would have saved me a heart attack.
so ur saying to lightly sand bottom for ???

[maxmekker]

Those 65-130 c nanos are great. I could feel the difference.

her is a pnp I'm setting up for a friend. Stock motor and Prather 220 prop. 45-90 c first and then 65-130c later on.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N55GDspMSXc&list=UURNlga8sE0qJBcPb_5FFovQ&index=2&feature=plcp

[martin]

Yep sanding the bottom of the ride pads is called scuffing which will run faster as it reduces drag. Use something like 400 -600 wet & dry & sand the bottom in strokes front to back, make sure you dont knock off the sharp edges along either side of the pads & at the rear of the pads. To take it a step further & improve performance further you need to fill the hollows that are probably in the pads.

[gtrcguru]

how much scuffing do think? enough to tell? wet and dry? wet only? thanks for the good tips.

[Fluid]

I usually sand the sponsosn bottoms with 220-grit wet-or-dry paper on a sanding block, used wet. Keep sanding (wash off the paper and sponson often while sanding) until the entire surface is flat and smooth. It is not necessary to use finer paper, I've gone 90+ mph with the 220 finish, but 320 or 400 grit would probably not hurt anything - but even the 220 grit takes awhile to obtain the flat surface. The most important part is a smooth and flat sponson bottom with sharp edges. Sometimes you may have to use a little filler on the deeper hollow spots.



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[nickB722]

I can't speak for waterproofing the Tx, but maybe adding a lanyard of some sort would be a good idea if you're worried about dropping it or if they make some sort of iPad drybag that is large enough to fit it in.

As for wax, I've got 3 boats on the Great Lakes and they keep the family and I plenty busy with compounding/polishing/waxing/washing. We use a product called Vesco AquaSeal on all our gelcoat, generally applying with elbow grease and rags and taking off with a buffer followed by rags. One of the boats is coming up on its 30th birthday and looks better than most new boats on the water!

[120man]

Nice vid- nice country too. I think I can hear the difference with the 65's. Ill hopefully be running this weekend and have an opportunity to compare the nano's to TP's of the same size and c rating.
Those 65-130 c nanos are great. I could feel the difference.

her is a pnp I'm setting up for a friend. Stock motor and Prather 220 prop. 45-90 c first and then 65-130c later on.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N55GDspMSXc&list=UURNlga8sE0qJBcPb_5FFovQ&index=2&feature=plcp