burned esc

[rcmanos]

I’ m trying to upgrade an OUTLAW OBL.
To do so I used an 5682 1670 kv leopard motor, a 240A swordfish esc and 5s lipo batteries.
Some pictures of the boat.

[rcmanos]

For the first run i used an x455 octura prop and a 40c 5s 5000mAh lipo.
All the equipment was ok except the lipo. It was too small and unable to deliver the necessary power.
Later I got two 5s 65c 5000mAh lipos and used them connected in parallel.

Unfortunately I wasn't careful enough. The batteries were then able to deliver the requested power and as a result the esc burned.

I contact hifei and they send me a new esc.

[rcmanos]

I repaired the boat and use the new esc that hifei send me. I also add 4 capacitors, that hifei sagest.
used an x445 octura prop to avoid any problems.
The prop was too small for the boat, but the esc burned for the second time.

[rcmanos]

The first time the prop may be too big and us a result the esc burned.
The second time what happened?
What am I doing wrong?
Any suggestions?

[Diesel6401]

- what was the runtime?
- throttle management (Mostly all wot, mostly less than wot)?
- boat running wet?
- any binding in the drive?
- good gap between the drive dog and the strut?
- any water (even a few drops) in the hull?
- is the esc throttle calibrated properly and timing correct for you motor wind?

* I've never owned the 240, but have had several 120s and 200s. They are rather reliable imho.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2

[oscarel]

Are you sure the ty-wraps aren't blocking water flow?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2

[rcmanos]

- what was the runtime?
- throttle management (Mostly all wot, mostly less than wot)?
- boat running wet?
- any binding in the drive?
- good gap between the drive dog and the strut?
- any water (even a few drops) in the hull?
- is the esc throttle calibrated properly and timing correct for you motor wind?

* I've never owned the 240, but have had several 120s and 200s. They are rather reliable imho.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2


The runtime was about 30sec.
The boat wasn't running wet.
The gap was about 1mm. The total flex length is about 16 cm long and runs smoothly.
No water in the hull.
The timing is 8khz and the motor 4poles. Is that right?

I don't think that i calibrate the throttle at all.......

Do you think that this may be the reason?

What do you mean "throttle management (Mostly all wot, mostly less than wot)?" (sorry for my bad english!)
I also trust swordfish's escs.

Thanks for helping!

[rcmanos]

Are you sure the ty-wraps aren't blocking water flow?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2

The water flow was ok. No problem with the ty-wraps.

Thanks for noticing it!

[srislash]

8khz is the frequency and probably correct.The timing is different.If it is a D wynd then it should be set low.If it is a Y wynd it should be medium.
I suppose you could have a bad motor.I don't know how to check that though.

[rcmanos]

8khz is the frequency and probably correct.The timing is different.If it is a D wynd then it should be set low.If it is a Y wynd it should be medium.
I suppose you could have a bad motor.I don't know how to check that though.

You are right.
The "pwm rate" is set to 8khz.
The timing is set to "auto". I don't know if it is Y or D wynd. The model is: "LBP5682/3D". Does 3D means that it is D wynd?

Thank you!

[martin]

If your using a 1 piece shaft then you want much more than 1mm gap between the dog & stinger, could be the dog bottomed against the stinger when the flex shortened with wind up.

[srislash]

Rcmaonos,The "3D" should mean D wynd.I agree with Martin on the flex, but geez,I would think a 5682 would have snapped the flex.

[tryinotocrash]

OH NO ! That was such a nice paint job. :-( That blows. Should have the same gap as the dia. of the cable drive. Seems like some other issue for that to happen though. What is the voltage rating for the 240 sword? When you say parallel do you mean pos to pos and neg to neg? or did it go 10s 1p as in pos to neg then one pos one neg?

[rcmanos]

The shaft is one piece. It is 1/4' (6.35mm) in diameter.
How much should be the gap to be sure?
The 240A esc is rated for 12s. The battaries was conected posatie to posative and negative to negarive.

The paint job turn out to be a waste of money...
I should first set the boat right and then paint it.

I will post some pictures of how it looks now, after the repair.

Thanks everybody. Any other suggestions?

[martin]

Ive not used 1/4" on electrics only up to 3/16", theirs been many discussions on size of gap needed on 1 piece flexes. A lot seem to agree the gap should be what ever the diam of the flex is,If thats a bit big a gap it dosnt matter as your sure the dog wont bottom out. Normally when they bottom out you can stess the shaft & break them but also possible to load the motor & increase amp draw.

[jcald2000]

My guess is bad motor, ohm meter between motor leads will tell you if its windings. Pull the rotor and look for scrape marks on rotor. If you see light marks change to better bearings.
If the drive dog is touching the strut under load the amp draw will go thrugh the roof, gap should be the Diamenter of the shaft.
I have been running a Swordfish 240 on 8s 2p at a steady 180 amp with spikes to 280 for 2 years with no problems.

[rcmanos]

A few photos of the repairing procedure.
I will paint the boat when the setup will be finalized.

[rcmanos]

As for the burned esc, if I’m correct and according to your useful suggestions, I should have left a biggest gap at the drive dog, the timing should be low (D wynd) and I should calibrate the throttle.
But if I get it right the above aren’t enough to burn the esc.
So I’m going to check the motor as you propose.
I will let you know.
Thank you all.
Any other suggestion is welcomed.