Lead Teflon or brass bushing for this strut

[BHChieftain]

I am running a new 1/4 inch stuffing tube and I can either run it all the way through the strut and use a brass bushing for the 3/16 prop shaft, or I can run it just past the back lip of the strut and use lead teflon bearings. Any strong recommendations either way?

Chief

[properchopper]

My take is your choice #2. Makes strut adjustment easier & I've personally been favoring/converting to lead-teflon in my boats. Even recently converted a Spd stinger to L/T.

[BHChieftain]

Thanks properchopper

[Heaving Earth]

i prefer the brass bushing as theyre much easier to change. not sure if propper has figured an easy way to change lead teflon bushings? please share

[properchopper]

i prefer the brass bushing as theyre much easier to change. not sure if propper has figured an easy way to change lead teflon bushings? please share

Here's how I installed L/T in a shortened Spd stinger. Same would go for a conventional strut :

Knocked out the brass liner with a drift ( not necessary with some struts like Speedmaster which are bored for .250 shafts already, only their stingers have the internal bushing))

80940


pressed in the front (of boat) bushing

80941

used drift to insert to proper depth

80942


EDIT : Do same for rear (of boat/prop end) using vice press - no picture




chucked up a propshaft, used light oil to lap bushings

80943


To remove for replacement, just knock 'em out with drift. :thumbup1:

[BHChieftain]

Good stuff

[properchopper]

Good stuff

Just looked at the post; had the pictures messed up:doh:; check now.

[BHChieftain]

Ok, just did a test run using the lead bearings with the stuffing tube just past the lip-- works great.

Chief

[siberianhusky]

For this I use my drill press as a press, short length of 3/16 rod with a airplane wheel collar to press them in. Old 1/4 drill bit in the chuck backwards to press them out to to depth.
LOL I have the same drill press vice as Tony. Cheap bugger!