Diesel6401
06-27-2012, 10:51 AM
Purpose is to convert a hardcase lipo over to softpack. I'm sure a few questions may arise such as:
- Why not just buy softpacks to start?
- What's the purpose/benefit?
ANSWERS:
- Waiting for the packs that you specifically want to come in stock from numerous places is rather annoying and time consuming, even once you get the lipos you want certain things are not up to par.
- The benefit is better performance and less stored internal heat.
I'm an avid hobbyist and out of land, air & sea rc, boating is by far in last place and is typically the smallest crowds in the hobby world, like their bigger counterparts boats typically equal Bust Out Another Thousand. No such thing as "cheap speed" on that side of the house.
Like mentioned I've done this is few times before, this time I converted a friends 2s 5000mah 50C Gens Ace HardCase to a soft pack. We did run the batts as is in a rc boat pulling over 100amps constant and peaks much higher. This is a normal setup in the boating side. The batteries themselves can handle the load, the bullet connectors of the plug-in type hardpacks however can not and a failure occurred because of it. This is not in anyway a failure of the gensace packs, this is my friend and I pushing the limits even knowing that a failure would prob come from it. The issue is the bullet connectors of the plug-in type hardpacks, they are 4mm which is normal in hardpacks, but they can't handle constant amp loads over 100. So we have battery with the possibility of providing 250 amps of power (5.0aH x 50C), but connectors that can't handle of approx 75amps constant. In cars it is normal for setups to pull much less then 75amps constant and 4mm bullets as well as deans connectors can survive without much issue, boating however is a amp hungry atmosphere and the deans and 4mm aren't up to the task. A direct connect style hardpack would be better in this situation, but the hardcasing itself is also a issue. In the boating side, it is very common to have to make adjustment to pretty much everything for reliability purposes. In a RTR boat, these batteries would have no issues, been when pushing the limits certain things need to be addressed. Let me say again this is NOT A RANT, COMPLAINT or ANY DISRESPECT TO GENS ACE BATTERIES. I am a HUGE gens ace fan, and data proves they are awesome batts.
OPENING:
I was very impressed in the construction of the lipo, it proved rather time consuming to open the case up, I have cracked into more expensive hardcase lipos in much shorter the time that it took to open these. Once opened I was really impressed with the overall board construction as well.
To o-pen the case hold razer flat against the seems and attempt to slide it under the lip of the case halves. I found the connection side to be easiest. Once you find the lip, break the glue seal all the way around and pull the halves apart.
Once Inside
Once inside the repairs can begin. In the picture attached you can also see the 4mm bullet on the left migrated away from the cell tap breaking the circuit and causing the battery to show "open" and not register at all on the charger or the volt meter.
While inside I completely removed the bullets and hard wired 8awg directly to the cell tabs. I did not use the supplied 12awg that came with the batteries, however I used the balance tab.
Once converted I just wrapped in electrical tape.
Another issue with the hardcases in boating, is heat and also water-intrusion.
Heat - Without any constant air flowing over batteries like in cars heat is built up inside and hardcases lipos can typically average between 15-20F hotter then softpacks of the same quality. While lipos due enjoy and function better with a little bit of heat (around 100-115F) as it lowers the internal resistance, when they get too hot cell deterioration can occur.
Water- water always finds a way to get in places and once in hardpacks sometimes removing it can be a joy all in itself. This eliminates that issue.
* Hopefully this post helps and any question please feel free to ask.
- Why not just buy softpacks to start?
- What's the purpose/benefit?
ANSWERS:
- Waiting for the packs that you specifically want to come in stock from numerous places is rather annoying and time consuming, even once you get the lipos you want certain things are not up to par.
- The benefit is better performance and less stored internal heat.
I'm an avid hobbyist and out of land, air & sea rc, boating is by far in last place and is typically the smallest crowds in the hobby world, like their bigger counterparts boats typically equal Bust Out Another Thousand. No such thing as "cheap speed" on that side of the house.
Like mentioned I've done this is few times before, this time I converted a friends 2s 5000mah 50C Gens Ace HardCase to a soft pack. We did run the batts as is in a rc boat pulling over 100amps constant and peaks much higher. This is a normal setup in the boating side. The batteries themselves can handle the load, the bullet connectors of the plug-in type hardpacks however can not and a failure occurred because of it. This is not in anyway a failure of the gensace packs, this is my friend and I pushing the limits even knowing that a failure would prob come from it. The issue is the bullet connectors of the plug-in type hardpacks, they are 4mm which is normal in hardpacks, but they can't handle constant amp loads over 100. So we have battery with the possibility of providing 250 amps of power (5.0aH x 50C), but connectors that can't handle of approx 75amps constant. In cars it is normal for setups to pull much less then 75amps constant and 4mm bullets as well as deans connectors can survive without much issue, boating however is a amp hungry atmosphere and the deans and 4mm aren't up to the task. A direct connect style hardpack would be better in this situation, but the hardcasing itself is also a issue. In the boating side, it is very common to have to make adjustment to pretty much everything for reliability purposes. In a RTR boat, these batteries would have no issues, been when pushing the limits certain things need to be addressed. Let me say again this is NOT A RANT, COMPLAINT or ANY DISRESPECT TO GENS ACE BATTERIES. I am a HUGE gens ace fan, and data proves they are awesome batts.
OPENING:
I was very impressed in the construction of the lipo, it proved rather time consuming to open the case up, I have cracked into more expensive hardcase lipos in much shorter the time that it took to open these. Once opened I was really impressed with the overall board construction as well.
To o-pen the case hold razer flat against the seems and attempt to slide it under the lip of the case halves. I found the connection side to be easiest. Once you find the lip, break the glue seal all the way around and pull the halves apart.
Once Inside
Once inside the repairs can begin. In the picture attached you can also see the 4mm bullet on the left migrated away from the cell tap breaking the circuit and causing the battery to show "open" and not register at all on the charger or the volt meter.
While inside I completely removed the bullets and hard wired 8awg directly to the cell tabs. I did not use the supplied 12awg that came with the batteries, however I used the balance tab.
Once converted I just wrapped in electrical tape.
Another issue with the hardcases in boating, is heat and also water-intrusion.
Heat - Without any constant air flowing over batteries like in cars heat is built up inside and hardcases lipos can typically average between 15-20F hotter then softpacks of the same quality. While lipos due enjoy and function better with a little bit of heat (around 100-115F) as it lowers the internal resistance, when they get too hot cell deterioration can occur.
Water- water always finds a way to get in places and once in hardpacks sometimes removing it can be a joy all in itself. This eliminates that issue.
* Hopefully this post helps and any question please feel free to ask.