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MassiveOverkill
06-08-2012, 06:52 AM
Seem as if this is the only forum familiar with Joysway. Anyone know what protocol their transmitters use? Thanks.

BILL OXIDEAN
06-08-2012, 09:42 PM
Out of curiousity, which boat do you have?

MassiveOverkill
06-08-2012, 09:52 PM
Hey Bill, Super Mono X:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1663518

Care to help me convert this to straight shaft?

BILL OXIDEAN
06-08-2012, 10:08 PM
Hey Bill, Super Mono X:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1663518

Care to help me convert this to straight shaft?

I've only got the older joysway radios, I just wanted to hear from another JoySway fan lol!
I have the smaller plastic mono (magic vee) and its amazing for its size..
Amazingly though I race for Venom they allow me to run Joysway boats because Airtronics was providing them for me..

Let me take a look at that drive and I'll have a solution for the shaft..

MassiveOverkill
06-09-2012, 09:13 AM
I managed to find a grub screw, grind it down and I'm waiting for the loctite to dry.

Here's my idea to convert my flex shaft to semi-straight:

Brass tubing to replace a section of the teflon tube:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/SuperMonoX/a1209efe.jpg

Cut off a section of the teflon tube to support the end going to the motor and replace the majority of the teflon tube with the brass:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/SuperMonoX/866c48c5.jpg

The idea here is that since my setup doesn't have a curved brass tube, but a stainless straight stuffing tube, I don't need flex but at the very end where it meets the motor. By eliminating the middle part of the teflon tube, and replacing it with brass tube, which is free to spin with the flex cable, you eliminate alot of the friction of the flexshaft rubbing in the teflon tube. Only the ends would have to be lubricated intstead of the whole shaft. I could place a lubrication port just in front of the teflon tube at the rear, and the front teflon tube I should be able to pull out and lubricate without having to take it apart.

What do you think?

Here she is completed:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/SuperMonoX/f6b64e7c.jpg

It doesn't even touch the stuffing tube sides when installed.........I may just leave it free-floating at the motor end:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/SuperMonoX/ce08c5cc.jpg

BILL OXIDEAN
06-09-2012, 11:38 AM
That's a good look! looks like you've got it covered!
Joysway boats are amazing, the drive systems are the only thing that needs Americanizing..

MassiveOverkill
06-09-2012, 12:05 PM
Funny you mention that. Took her out for her first run..............this thing flies.........but it looks like the .25 cent\hour labor forgot to lubricate the motor bearing:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/SuperMonoX/4fe3890c.jpg

BILL OXIDEAN
06-09-2012, 12:36 PM
Yikes! time for another HK motor or some surgery..
Better yet! Contact Boca Bearings, and you'll be upgrading that little motor to some faster more reliable bearings. A lil heat on the endbells pops the old ones out..

MassiveOverkill
06-09-2012, 12:47 PM
Dude, you must have ESP or something!!!

http://www.bocabearings.com/productdetail.aspx?ItemID=7301&MODSYSID=0&ProductSubGroupID=0

I was looking at replacing the motor, but the motor is fine, just the bearing is bad. I thought about a HK motor, but I doubt I'd be able to find something to fit the stock motor water cooler I'd have to find some way to mount it (first day of ownership and I've already done too much modding), so re-using the existing motor, which is plenty fast for me, is appealing.

BTW the motor cooling water block probably isn't that effective. There's too much air between the motor bearing housing and the water cooler jacket.

BILL OXIDEAN
06-09-2012, 02:55 PM
Novak uses a thermal transfer tape like substance that you may fare out well with spacing between the motor and the heat sink.
My uncle makes me remove the anodizing of the mating surfaces as well..

MassiveOverkill
06-09-2012, 09:30 PM
I may melt some solder around the flange to fill the gap. Thanks for the help and suggestions.

So I looked up the model number for the replacement motor and it shows up as CF2812. I look this up and it's very common:

http://www.valuehobby.com/emax-cf2812-outrunner.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__5423__FC_28_12_Brushless_Outrunner_1534kv.html

Apparantely it has a great power-to-weight ratio but the bearings are cheap as others have stated.

I can't believe the price though, 8 bucks?!

If the motor lasts with the new boca bearings I ordered it may be worth it to just buy a few as spares. If not, I guess I'll have to rig up a new mounting system and go with a better setup.

MassiveOverkill
06-13-2012, 07:41 PM
She's up and running again. Recieved my Boca ceramic bearings and Grayson Hobby Gold 2200 mAh 30C Lipo. After the run, the ESC was warm, but the motor water block was hot to the touch. I have plenty of flex clearance and the flex shaft only touches where the smooth shaft near the prop is inserted into the 1 inch teflon tube. I strongly suggest anyone buying this boat replace the stock bearings.

The Boca ceramic bearings I used are:

SMR693C-YZZ #5 NB2 BG (3x8x4) MM
SMR73C-YZZ AF2 BG (3x7x3) MM

Grayson Battery:

http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/2200mah111v30c3sgraysongoldlipolybatterypack-p-1467.html

Stock battery weight was 138 grams and the Grayson is 179 grams, and I think the added weight makes the boat completely self-righting.

You can see the boat do flips twice in the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu3pqnpnQew

Other than the bearing issue, I'm really impressed with this boat. She handles really well and doesn't take on too much water after my lexan cowl mod.

MassiveOverkill
06-19-2012, 05:50 PM
How Joysway takes a 1600KV CF2812 motor and turns it into a 3300KV motor:

Left motor is a standard CF2812 brushless. Right is Joysway frankenbrushless that I can't find anywhere. They removed 6 magnets (14 on left, 8 on right) and beefed up the gauge of the windings:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/SuperMonoX/ee5da3cc.jpg

Motors put back together:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/SuperMonoX/4f756237.jpg

Windings of the stock Joysway Frankenbrushless:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/SuperMonoX/dd69f854.jpg

which will lead me to another post about what timing I should use on my ESC

gb tiggycat
06-21-2012, 05:55 AM
Hi Guys,

Over here in the UK Joysway used to sell their kits without RC gear, which is how I bought my Offshore Warrior. Now equipped with 2.4 GHZ cheapie radio from Giant Shark. Now all the Joysway boats come pre fitted with 2.4 gear of their own make. Still haven't managed to get mine on the water due to time. Having recentlly retired, I should now have time to frighten myself to death with this little monster which I told literally flies on the recommended 3S lipo. Since I am a bit out of practice, may start with a 2s and see how it goes!

MassiveOverkill
06-21-2012, 06:30 AM
You guys are lucky as Joysway is readily available over there. I convinced Aaron from Banggood to start carrying Joysway. Good thing about Banggood is that just about everything has free shipping:

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Rc-Boats-c-1752.html

He even has the best price on the NQD Tear Into

vans552
06-25-2012, 08:59 PM
do you know if the octura x432 will fit on that flex cable?

MassiveOverkill
06-25-2012, 09:22 PM
It should, it's 3mm. My stock prop fits on this setup:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc64pkg

vans552
06-25-2012, 09:43 PM
did your stock flex cable have a 3mm stub

MassiveOverkill
06-25-2012, 09:50 PM
Yep