NEW Pro Boat Impluse 31 RTR V2

[Darin Jordan]

Pro Boat has updated the Impulse 31.

Version 2 has updated electronics by Dynamite, including an 80A ESC, which I tested this weekend and was very pleased. Very smooth throttle off the line, larger 12-gauge wire, 4mm contact, and a Lipo/NiMH external switch.

http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=PRB4250B

http://www.proboatmodels.com/ProdInfo/LargeImages/PRB4250B.jpg

[Darin Jordan]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhhY5RLE5zk


PLEASE NOTE: I would not recommend being barefoot in the water around a running boat. Also, the team that does the videos sets things up "loose" to add some dynamics to the video. Don't read anything into the "bouncing"... the IM31 can be pinned down just like any other mono! Just not as exciting to see on video! :cool2:

[electric]

Set up with 6s capability. Should be screamin' fast. I am starting to wonder if we are are not heading towards a 6s model for racing as well rather than the current 4s setups... I like the new graphics too.

[d.a.v.e]

Were any changes made to the haul or is it just new electronics to keep up with the jones?

[SFC K]

That is sweet! I love the new paint scheme too!

[Darin Jordan]

Were any changes made to the haul or is it just new electronics to keep up with the jones?

Last time I checked, these boats weren't having much trouble "keeping up"....

The new electronics are upgrades to improve performance and reliability, and to set the stage for future offerings.

The IM31 hull remains the same. No improvements were necessary. It's already a sweet hull, at least in my opinion.

Anything in particular that you think needs updating on it??

[d.a.v.e]

Nope.. Was just wondering if the change was only paint and electronics or if there was a running change too.

The new version looks really good!

[Darin Jordan]

Nope.. Was just wondering if the change was only paint and electronics or if there was a running change too.

The new version looks really good!

OK... Nope... the hull design works pretty well for the power level. I'm running one pretty much bone stock, except for the contacts and prop, in our P-Ltd Offshore class and it runs and handles great. I would like to see a bit more power out of the stock 1800KV motor, (more torque), but overall, it's a solid package.

[madness67203]

When will this and the other updated pro boats be available?

[Darin Jordan]

When will this and the other updated pro boats be available?

That's always the million dollar question, isn't it?

I was told they were suppose to be here in July... but I'm not really in that loop, so I'll have to try to find out.

[sturco]

Darin, prop suggestions for this & the new Blackjack ?
Steve

[bigcam406]

When will this and the other updated pro boats be available?

website says late Sept unfortunately.:sad: why is it that when there are new releases it always seems that its dated past the peak of the season?doesnt make sense to me.another question,just wondering what kind of speeds would be estimated with 2 9.6v nihms(5100mah)?just wondering,nice boat,great upgrades,keep up the great work!

[ron1950]

will the dynamite 1800 run any better then the current 1800kv motor or are they the same?

[d.a.v.e]

website says late Sept unfortunately.:sad: why is it that when there are new releases it always seems that its dated past the peak of the season?doesnt make sense to me.another question,just wondering what kind of speeds would be estimated with 2 9.6v nihms(5100mah)?just wondering,nice boat,great upgrades,keep up the great work!

Just making a guess here but I would guess based on a release schedules they share a common manufacture with another company(s).

[bigcam406]

whats the max voltage the new ESC can handle? i was thinking of grabbing one and running 2 9.9v LIFE batts.

[Niky]

Hi Guys,
I just hope that on 6s, the electronics of the new IM31 would not behave as electronics of the Spartan.
There's some resemblance between elect. of these two boats; 80A ESC+1800Kv motor!
Salute,Niky.

[dana]

Why don't they just put the 5.5 mm bullets on the darn things already?
Nice looking hull for sure, I dig the new paint.

[hobby_man]

I have the Impulse 2 V2 in he hobby room.

If you plan to run this out of the box forget it, some assembly required.
Out of the box the steering servo is not mounted correctly, the laminated wood is broken apart from not drilling deep enough b4 running the screws in.
They could have moved the servo 1/4 toward the Bow, this would give better access to the servo screws, I am rebuilding this.
No collet on the 5MM motor shaft for the .187 dia. flex cable this will have to go. I did not look to see if the motor has a flat for the set screw yet.
The one way to tighten the prop onto the .187 dia, shaft was to insert an Allen wrench into the set screw on the brass colored collar.
They ground a flat on the flex shaft, the set screw will tear this up after a couple of set screw tightens.
Running the antenna wire is a pain, I ran a cable into the boat and taped the antenna to the cable with my Hatch tape.
An 80 amp speed control with EC3 connectors, they will get cut off tomorrow and replaced with 6MM bullets

I will post some pictures
8524285243852448524585246

[hobby_man]

8524785248852498525085251

[hobby_man]

8525285253852548525585256

[Niky]

Hi Guys,
these fotos are not lovley!
Ater the feilure of the Spartan,seems that the new Impulse also goes in the same direction.
Now the question is: what deep V boat to buy?
Salute,Niky.

[hobby_man]

the first run with all the factory settings. the progam card will not work so I had to go with the factory settings.
after 5 minutes burned out the RX, big cloud of blue smoke, desoldered the bullets to the motor.
boat was sitting in the lake with a 2 second beep from the speed control.
1. servo tray was broken upon arrival
2. esc progam card would not work
3. burned out the RX and de-soldered the bullets to the motor/esc85281

they are telling me no refund on this boat, What the H are you kidding me
BUY THIS BOAT at you own risk

[hobby_man]

The boat is a bouncer as well, just like the video by Jordan, :w00t:

[hobby_man]

playing the waiting game as I had to send the boat back, the warranty is date of purchase

[hobby_man]

anyone else got this boat???

[bigcam406]

not after reading that and viewing your pics....:sad:

[Darin Jordan]

The boat is a bouncer as well, just like the video by Jordan, :w00t:

If your boat is "bouncing", then you don't have it tuned correctly... Any "bouncing" in the marketing videos are simply the result of running the boats directly out of the box, and from marketing people believing that a little "action" is more exciting for the viewer.

The IM31 is just like any other mono... and the hull quality (flatness of the ride-surfaces, sharpness of the edges, etc.) are all above par. It's a good quality hull. I've been racing these hulls since before they were available to the public, and since before there was a "V2" version (heck, before there was ANY version... ) and have never had an issue with "bouncing". Adjust the strut angle to neutral, set the strut height to put the bottom of the strut about 3/16" or so above the bottom of the boat (more will drop the transom down into the water, less will raise the transom), set your CG to about 30% of the length (about 8 3/4 to 9" from the actual transom), and then adjust your trim-tabs down as needed. If the boat is "chine-walking" at speed, push your right tab down a bit more, and more to the inside of the tab. You can also bend in "training wheels" on the tabs if you think it's required (shouldn't be)...

If you boat is "bouncing", then you are loading/unloading/loading the power system with huge amp-spikes, the result of which will be a power system that gets pretty hot, starting at the point of most resistance, the contacts.

The issue with the screws for the steering servo not being drilled deep enough has been brought to Pro Boat's attention. If you understood the nature of getting things made in China, you'd have a clearer understanding and appreciation for the challenges in getting something "consistent" from them. Not an excuse, just a statement of consideration. Pro Boat will work to get that issue, if it's a persistent and common issue, resolved. In the meantime, it's fairly minor and relatively easy to band-aide.

As for the rest of your complaints, I would have to understand your background with R/C Boats, and exactly what you are expecting from a RTR R/C boat.

1) The Antenna?? It was placed where it was placed on purpose, to keep it out of the way of your run-to-run access to the interior of the boat. Is it a challenge to get installed... It can be. Do you have to do it on a regular basis... I should hope not. Install it once and your done. I'd take the inconvenience of it's location over it being in my way every time I need to access the hatch anytime.

2) Servo location?? The servo location is right where it should be, which keeps the steering rod as short as possible for less flex, and also to allow the balance of the boat to be more controlled by the battery location. It also keeps the wires located near the RX, which helps reduce the chances for RX interference. Again, you put a steering servo in ONCE and run the boat for a season. The screws are rather easy to get to, so again, this seems like a rather trivial complaint. I've never had an issue replacing servos in mine, and this is the first time I've heard this complaint. We'll keep it under consideration, however, for future implementations. Pro Boat is aware now, thanks to this thread, of the screw depth issue and will address it.

3) "No collet on the 5mm motor shaft for the .187 dia flex cable"??? I'm not sure what you mean here. The coupler between the motor and the .150-sized flex cable is clearly there. It's a standard set-screw style coupler that works very well, considering it's application. It's a RTR, not a $850.00 race boat, and, frankly, the coupler is a HUGE improvement over RTR couplers of the past. It works just fine. And, YES, the motor has a flat for the set-screw.

4) "They ground a flat on the flex shaft"... This is FALSE. Nothing was "ground" on the flex-shaft. The flat is PRESSED into the end of the cable, just like they might do to form a square drive for an Outboard or a speedo cable. Additionally, the stub shaft is not only soldered to the flex, but it's also "swagged" on with 4 "crimp-holes" to help ensure it's a solid connection. I've been running the stock flexshafts (again, .150", NOT .187"), in my MG's, Impulse 31s, and Mystics, under both P-Ltd and P-Open power configurations, and have yet to have one fail. In fact, I'm currently running a stock Miss Geico flex cable in my P-Ltd Hydro (~60mph setup turning an H-10) and have yet to have an issue with it. The flex cable setups in these boats are solid, overkill, and well built for the application.

5) "80A Spped control with EC3 connectors" - Yes, this is true. They are "industry standard", and what Pro Boat decided to go with. The wiring on this controller was upgraded to 12-awg, however. I have always recommended that people replace all the contacts on their boats before pushing them too hard.

You mention in a later post that "after 5-minutes", the connectors burned off the ESC, etc... 5-Minutes?? If you ran the boat for 5-Minutes, bouncing, in a state of poor tune, then I'm not surprised at this. I haven't read through the manual recently, so I'm not sure how it's instructing users to get up to speed with these boats, but it's common practice, with RC Cars, Helis, Planes, AND Boats, to run them for a minute or minute and a half, then check temps, adjust accordingly, then run them again, and BUILD UP to completely thrashing on them for 5-Minutes... 5-minutes is a LONG time to run any "Performance" oriented sport boat. Our race boats run for 1:30-2:00 minutes, tops... and use around 2300-2500mAh in the process...

If you were running hard for 5-minutes, then you likely used up 5,000mAh:


Runtime/3600 * Avg Amp Draw = Total Amps Used

300 seconds / 3600 * 60Amps = 5Ah or 5,000 mAh)

Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

Doing that long of a run and pulling the batteries down that far will quickly overheat a system, and risks damaging the batteries, etc.


I'm sorry you are unhappy and having troubles. Hopefully, working with the Pro Boat/Horizon Hobby customer service dept. you'll be able to get them resolved.

[hobby_man]

yea blame it on china, I know all about China, im in the MFG. trade
2. the rear servo screws are under the deck , tough to get an angled screw driver into them.
3. a compression collet
could not run it wide open so you math is off boat is factory set a 80% top end, with the bounce and the ESC programming card not working. IF it did run wide open it would have burned up the motor.
Heat gun was at the dock with me and I was trying to get the boat set up when it died on the lake. Tough to do in 5 minutes

pro boat, not a word from them yet. Horizon says warranty is time of sale!

I have a Traxxas Spartan, UL-1, Revolt 30, they all ran out of the box, for a very long time!

[Darin Jordan]

yea blame it on china, I know all about China, im in the MFG. trade

I figured that responding might get me in a back and forth situation. But, what the heck... Let's do this...


NOT "blaming it on China", just stating reality. Unless you'd like EVERY one of these to go personally through me before they head out the the consumers, stuff is going to get through. Stuff happens. It's being looked into.

Every boat you listed that you own or have run was introduced with "issues"... None of these are perfect. All we can do is try to make them so, but if you are in Mfg., then you already know this...



2. the rear servo screws are under the deck , tough to get an angled screw driver into them.


http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85255&d=1348707168

Again, it seems like a minor problem to me, but I'll suggest that Pro Boat take this into consideration next time around. I've never had an issue getting a servo in and out of any of mine, and I've done it more than most...



3. a compression collet


On the majority of my boats, I replace the collets to the Octura 5mm to .150" unit (long, 2-set-screw style usually), ESPECIALLY if they come with factory "collets"... On my IM31 and Mystics, however, I've purposely NOT done that, and have run this set-screw coupler, on purpose, to see if it is a point of failure. It's not... Or at least hasn't been, through two race seasons, several 2-Lap attempts, a SAW or two, and one National Championship week. However, if you don't like the coupler that comes out of the box, Octura makes a really nice piece for around $10.00... This isn't a "quality issue"... or a poor design issue... it's a personal preference. The coupler that comes on these boats is a VAST improvement over the steel collet that came on earlier Pro Boat models.



could not run it wide open so you math is off boat is factory set a 80% top end, with the bounce and the ESC programming card not working. IF it did run wide open it would have burned up the motor.


A simple recharge of your batteries will tell you for sure. How much mAh did you put back into them?? I'd suggest that by NOT running "wide-open", my math probably is off... you probably used MORE mAh, do to the increased loading of the wetted hull and amp spikes. You are NOT going to "burn up" the motor running this boat wide-open with the factory prop.

[roadrashracing]

The servo setup has been my only grip with the boat, the placement might change depending on the day or the person making them? The back half of my screws require taking them out at an angle. And the wood mounts to fail over time. Over the winter I am going to epoxy a new non wood mount with a little more access. What I used to do for the antenna was drill the ant. mount out so the tube could slide all the way through. I then bent a old tube and ran it into the hull, I slipped the antenna in and pulled the tube out, what you should be left with is the antenna sticking out. Its been a good boat other than that.

[Darin Jordan]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85255&d=1348707168

So, having not had one of these new V2 versions in my hands personally, there are a few things I'd recommend users do to these in prep for running.

NOTE: Not sure how this stuff would impact the warrantee for these boats, so assume you are doing this at your own risk. I don't speak for Pro Boat, only myself, as a fellow R/C Boating enthusiast, who is trying to be helpful.

1) I don't like having all the wires and cooling lines zip-tied together like shown at the top of the picture by the ESC. I'd remove this tie, and run the water line up under the side of the deck.

2) I'd keep the motor wires separate from each other, or at minimum just run the loose, so they aren't touching each other and trapping heat.

3) I'd install some velcro to attach the ON/Off switch too, and also the NiMH/Lipo switch too. I usually lay mine up alongside the battery tray on the left side of the hull.

4) Make sure that the latch slot and the pin hole at the front of the hatch cover are sealed up under the deck.

5) I'd remove the "Y" harness from the ESC, and "series" the batteries to each other, then connect to the ESC with a single + and - contact of your choice, preferably something in the 5.5mm or larger size.

6) I'd go over ALL of the interior wood (after removing all the components) with a good epoxy, including where the wood is joined to the fiberglass. This is a standard "upgrade" for pretty much any RTR with wood in the interior, and will prevent mold from growing, as well as strengthen the joints, especially around the motor-mount area.


Also, this will obviously depend on your setup and battery configuration, but when I race my IM31, my 5000 mAh Thunder Power R/C 2S packs are in the battery tray, with their back end right about even with the forward end of the motor cutout in the battery tray to get the CG just about right... With everything setup correctly, they only vary a tad from this location, depending on the water conditions...

[Darin Jordan]

OH, another note, (thanks for reminding me, RoadRashRacing)... The antenna...

I've been experimenting with shorter and shorter antenna extensions. On my early IM31 adventures, when I'd flip, it would break the antenna tube right at the deck. I've been running them about 2-3" above the deck lately, keeping them nice and short, and I haven't had an issue with range. Make sure you test the range on the water if you do this (don't just lower the antenna and go run across the lake without working up to the distance), but it has kept me from breaking antenna tubes this season.

[tlandauer]

Darin, thanks for spending time to clear things up for those of us who still don't but might want to own this boat.
Just one question at the moment: as you said, the choice whether to use a collet or the stock coupler ( BTW, that is a nice coupler) is personal, I have replaced most of mine with the Octura "short" vertion, you mentioned the "long" version, wonder if I went wrong with the "short" one. Also, I found it necessay to grind the mount where the collet is above so it will "clear" the set screw since the Octura is a bigger unit. Any need to do the same in the event I want to use an Octura collet in this boat?
Sorry to be long winded. Thanks!

[roadrashracing]

I run a none spektrum rx and have had good luck running the antenna in side the boat.

[Darin Jordan]

Any need to do the same in the event I want to use an Octura collet in this boat?


The "short" version is fine... necessary in may cases to get clearance as well.

On some of mine, I have had to provide clearance just below the coupler. It's larger in diam. than the stock one.

[Darin Jordan]

I run a none spektrum rx and have had good luck running the antenna in side the boat.

I've been working up to that! I HAVE run the antenna completely inside on my IM26, and actually ran it that way at the Nats when I was playing around and ran it, repowered with a Neu on 2S2P 10,000mAh, in N2 Mono, and never had a glitch.

I don't get out much these days to just "play" with boats, so most of my running is during a race weekend, so I haven't been willing to risk the test to put it all the way inside, but I'm going to be doing some testing this winter and will certainly try it.

[hobby_man]

sent the Impulse 31 V2 back to Horizon, I'll wait and see what they change on the boat b4 getting it again. Good Service from Horizon Hobby and Pro Boat.

[Stephavee]

I dont have much to gripe about this boat. This thing is as good as they come for a RTR boat IMO! You did a fine job on this one Darin! If i can help make it even better i will.

1. It has a really nice "water proof" lid that goes on before the hatch but... the holes for the hatch will still let water in if you dont tape it down. and taping the hatch at the rear is hard because the hatch lock is so close to the edge.

2. When you do get water in the boat it is very hard to get it all out due to all the nooks and crannys inside. The location of the drain plug is kinda hard to get to, but then again there isn't much room for it any other place.

3. The first time i crashed this boat i got cracks on the hatch; maybe ask the "china men" to strengthen this up with foam or extra glass.

All minor things that can be fixed easily but would be cool if it came that way! Some of us have ADD and want to run this boat immediately after it leaves the box, but its always a good idea to look over any RTR rc before your first run.

[LOVE6S]

Darin, dont want to side track the thread, I have a question about the black jack, as you said in the the vids from proboat, the boats are set up loose, for thrills, etc. The blackjacks are out and I saw a vid on you tube, from a consumer, first run out of the box, it was bouncing alot. We all know the old MG"s needed some work to get rid of this, do you think the new BJ hull is prone to it also, or do you think the boat just needed to be set up? I was thinking of getting one, but I wish the boat in the vid had ran flatter, I am sure there will be lots of info on here as people get them and post results, anyway just thought I would ask, sure is a nice looking boat, with some decent electronics for a RTR boat, thanks, Shawn.

[Darin Jordan]

sent the Impulse 31 V2 back to Horizon, I'll wait and see what they change on the boat b4 getting it again. Good Service from Horizon Hobby and Pro Boat.

I got a note from Horizon that they have your boat in hand... Not sure what the outcome will be, but they are looking at it...

[Niky]

Hi Guys,
anybody knows what is with Blakjack 29 RTR, the first impressions?
Thanks, Niky.

[sturco]

Niky, I recieved mine last week. Very pleased with fit, finish & assy details. Haven't run yet but will try this weekend. It's a whole lot better than my Revolt was as new. Don't get me wrong, I'm very pleased with the Revolt but "as recieved" the BJ29 is way ahead in RTR form.
Steve

[hobby_man]

Niky, I recieved mine last week. Very pleased with fit, finish & assy details. Haven't run yet but will try this weekend. It's a whole lot better than my Revolt was as new. Don't get me wrong, I'm very pleased with the Revolt but "as recieved" the BJ29 is way ahead in RTR form.
Steve

I'm confused here, I have the Revolt, I opened the box installed the batteries and drove it. Unlike the Impluse 31 V2 ( install antenna, install turn fins 2x, install prop) $400 for the Impluse 31 V2 and assembly required, it NOT ready to run like the box states

[hobby_man]

I got a note from Horizon that they have your boat in hand... Not sure what the outcome will be, but they are looking at it...

I was told by the local dealer the boat had caught fire and they gave me a full refund. Goo thing the programming card did not work. I would have run the boat at 100% vs the peset 80%.
Running this boat on 6s is 22.2 volts x 1800 kv = 39960 no load rpm, the charts I have state this is a NO/GO set up. 5s @ 18.5volts should be the max voltage on this boat

[Niky]

Hi Guys,
like to respond to thread of a hobby_man;
he said that max. voltage on IM 31 V2 should be 18,5 V (5s),not 22,2V (6s), infact I think he's right.
What happened with Spartan; ESC 80 Amp + 1800 KV motor, there's no person including me that didn't burn the ESC (Castle) on 6s.
Now, at forum they already prepeared upgraded motor+ESC for Spartan for 6s.
But,why the Proboat installed the same combination of motor & ESC when the Teaxxas failed completly???
Thanks,salute all Niky.

[hobby_man]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35052&d=1288301845

[mannytx1]

86359motor 1800kv max 5S=18.5v - 21v 33,300rpm - 37,800rpm
propx442

NO 6S

[Niky]

Hi Guys,
so finally, it's exact what the guys saying at forum:
that 1800kv motor is not compatible with 6s,(should be 1600kv), but why the Proboat gives the combination of 1800kv motor & 80A ESC compatible on 6s???
Thanks,salute all Niky.

[mannytx1]

recommended for brushless motor max 40000rpm
86890
4s motor 2200kv 4s=4.2vx4=16.8 16.8x2200=36960rpm
5s motor 1800kv 5s=4.2vx5=21v 21x1800=37800rpm
6s motor 1500kv 6s=4.2vx6=25.2v 25.2x1500=37800rpm

motor A3630 imp volt 12-22.2v 50A 4S-5S
motor dynm3830 ???????
max rpm ?????????

[dana]

recommended for brushless motor max 40000rpm
86890
4s motor 2200kv 4s=4.2vx4=16.8 16.8x2200=36960rpm
5s motor 1800kv 5s=4.2vx5=21v 21x1800=37800rpm
6s motor 1500kv 6s=4.2vx6=25.2v 25.2x1500=37800rpm


motor A3630 imp volt 12-22.2v 50A 4S-5S
motor dynm3830 ???????
max rpm ?????????
Not quite how it works. Multiply by 3.7v not 4.2

[mannytx1]

No DANA Multiply by 4.2v max voltage86984
battery / nominal voltage / maximum charge voltage / minimum discharge voltage
1S / 3.7v / 4.2v / 3.2v
2S / 7.4v / 8.4v / 6.4v
3S / 11.1v / 12.6v / 9.6v
4S / 14.8v / 16.8v / 12.8v
5S / 18.5v / 21.0v / 16.0v
6S / 22.2v / 25.2v / 19.2v

[dana]

I see what you mean, but still not quite rite. Do not multiply by 4.2

[Darin Jordan]

You are both "right"... 3.7 is nominal... 4.2 is optimum... However, there are almost NO, if any, cells that will be 4.2V under any load at all...

You are better to figure out your setups using 3.7 or 3.8V/cell, and calculate from there. And that would be for GOOD cells... VERY good cells might.... MIGHT, hold 3.9 or 4.0V/cell for a very short period of time at the beginning of the discharge cycle (first 20-30 seconds), but even that is a push...

I do all my "guestimation" using 3.7V/Cell...

[dana]

Thanks darrin, i was feeling too lazy to explain that lol

[mannytx1]

909140
Each cell of a LiPo has a nominal voltage rating of 3,7 Volt and a maximum charge voltage of 4,22 Volt (4,2V is standard).

That means the LiPo is used in a "voltage-window" ranging between 3Volt and 4,2Volt.

In contrary to a normal accumulator the voltage of the LiPo cells will not sink below 3 Volt !.

If a cell is discharged below 3 Volt, this will cause irreparable damages. Afterwards a complete charging is not possible and its shelf life is very short.

[dana]

0
Each cell of a LiPo has a nominal voltage rating of 3,7 Volt and a maximum charge voltage of 4,22 Volt (4,2V is standard).

That means the LiPo is used in a "voltage-window" ranging between 3Volt and 4,2Volt.

In contrary to a normal accumulator the voltage of the LiPo cells will not sink below 3 Volt !.

If a cell is discharged below 3 Volt, this will cause irreparable damages. Afterwards a complete charging is not possible and its shelf life is very short.
okay… so the point here is?
you still multiply by 3.7 to figure your rpm's

[Darin Jordan]

okay… so the point here is?

I'm wondering the same thing... Am I being told that all these years I've been doing it wrong?? ;)

[dana]

I'm wondering the same thing... Am I being told that all these years I've been doing it wrong?? ;)
apparently the other 99.9% of us here have been too darin… dont feel bad:doh::confused2::noidea::spy:

[mannytx1]

DARIN JORDAN
How many ships burn per year?

[dana]

DARIN JORDAN
How many ships burn per year?
well darrin? lol… what is going on here manny….?

[Darin Jordan]

well darrin? lol… what is going on here manny….?

Manny.. I'm still trying to understand your point here???

To answer your question directly?? TOO MANY!

But you ask the wrong question... WHY do they burn??

Because people aren't fully aware of the technology they are working with, think their boats will work just like their cars or planes, and run them under conditions that perhaps they shouldn't.

And, Yes, sometimes, there are also electrical/mechanical issues that contribute as well.

Now, if you'd like to know how many of these "ships" I'VE burned?? A few, but in EVERY case, it was because I was pushing them well beyond what I should have been, or TRYING to find the limits....

Personally, I would NEVER take one of these boats out of the box, throw 6S into it, and expect it to survive. I WOULD eventually run 6S in it, but I'd build up to it, once I knew that I had the boat 1) worked out of any bugs, 2) setup correctly and handling "loosely" enough to attempt 6S, and 3) was willing to push it to it's absolute limit.

But, hey, that's just me... what do I know??

[Darin Jordan]

I WOULD eventually run 6S in it, but I'd build up to it, once I knew that I had the boat 1) worked out of any bugs, 2) setup correctly and handling "loosely" enough to attempt 6S, and 3) was willing to push it to it's absolute limit.


IN fact... I DID run my IM31 on 6S, on 6S... and I ended up melting off a contact... BUT, I found out that I had a water-line pinched, so the motor wasn't cooling, which melted the glue on the endbell, allowing the motor to rotate, binding the flexshaft, all of which increased the amps, and melted the solder out of the contact.

HAD I been more careful and inspected the setup (threw it in at the Nats just to see what it would do on the 2-Lap TT.... Ran 34-seconds with the stock prop, which is only about a 35mph average), I am certain it wouldn't have had these issues. It can happen to anyone. You have to pay attention to the WHOLE system...

[bob_t]

Darin,
Talking about "whole system", maybe you can help me with this ... sort of off topic, but still very much relevant to new purchases of these RTR boats. In the "features and specs" it says you don't need to balance the Stainless Steel prop (PRB4019) that comes stock on the Impulse and a variety of other models (Mystic, BJ29, etc), unless you want optimum performance and acceleration. My friend's brand new Mystic, after only a couple of runs, developed a lot of "slop" in the rear strut bushing, even though it was greased every 2 runs (5 minutes per run 4S, 2-2S, stock setup). We hit the throttle one time, boat just sitting in the stand, and it just about vibrated off the table! The prop was visually not centered - it wobbled when you spun it. So, we got a new PRB4019 and I put it on my balancer and it too was WAY off. Just spinning it by hand or blowing on it, it would shake the balancer pretty bad. Checked closer with calipers and dial indicator and found out the bore was off center in the hub by .015" making one side really heavy. (Didn't check the original one that close, I assumed it just got damaged.) I ordered another one and that one was much better, but still not close to being balanced. (The marking on the prop was different, too, maybe different stock?) I got the new prop balanced pretty good, fooling with it for about an hour. Since that unbalanced mass is overhung at the aft most strut bushing, it seems to sense that it would wear the bushing alot more quickly, than if the prop was balanced. Without balancing these, I'm pretty sure the strut bushings would prematurely "wear out". Do you run these props "right out of the package", or "as received" on the RTR boats right out of the box? Have you seen the bushings wear out more quickly that what you think they should? I'm looking into getting some cast bronze sleeve bearings that match those in the strut and replacing the worn ones. Any thoughts/experience on doing that?
Thanks,
Bob

[Darin Jordan]

Do you run these props "right out of the package", or "as received" on the RTR boats right out of the box? Have you seen the bushings wear out more quickly that what you think they should? I'm looking into getting some cast bronze sleeve bearings that match those in the strut and replacing the worn ones. Any thoughts/experience on doing that?
Thanks,
Bob

Unless I'm testing something that needed to be in absolute stock trim, I don't run, ever, the stock props... They are not conducive to making the boats perform. THAT being said, I was told that there may be some better options in the works from Pro Boat, but I don't know their status.

Generally speaking, you really should always have your props balanced and sharpened. I have to wear protective gloves to install/handle mine in most cases. They are that sharp.

Getting them PERFECTLY balanced is open for debate.... Only one blade is loaded at a time, so it's debatable how much that really matters. I get mine very close, but don't obsess over it.

As for the strut bushing. The stock ones do seem to get loose. I'm not sure what they are made of. If you have the tools/talent to do it, you can ream out the stock strut to .250" and install some Octura Lead-Teflon bushings and then you'll have trouble-free operation.

Measure (Mic.) the diameter of the stub shaft. The stock ones can vary, and some are smaller than the .1865 that they should be. A replacement Octura piece or ??? from OSE is a good option and upgrade.

These things are not unlike a Traxxas Stampede or any other R/C RTR... There are compromises on them, and plenty of upgrade opportunities.

To answer your question more generally... YES, it's optimal to have the prop balanced, and to have the driveline slop-free.

[Niky]

Hi Guys,
could someone tell me please; why the Proboat installed the ESC80A & 1800kv motor saying that it is compatible with 6s?
The same thing did the Traxxas too with the Spartan, and we know how it ended.
Is it possible that now when we have the technology of brushless motors,LiPo batt. and the new hard materials, they can't make a boat with no issues, naturally under condition that also the modellers must handle it carefully.
Salute all,Niky.

[Fluid]

Uh, no, it can certainly be done. There are numerous examples in current RTRs....you can see that. I cannot say why PB states that 6S is suitable with an 1800 Kv motor....it is not for 90 percent of users. Like the Spartan that is an invitation for disaster....a poor decision IMO. But that has nothing to do with running that boat on the proven 4S voltage.




.

[bob_t]

Darin,
Thanks for the response. I have the tools and ability to modify the strut. Thanks for the info about a better bearing solution - will need to give that a try. Thanks for the candid answers, too, I appreciate that. Hopefully I didn't sound like I was bashing PB, because I'm not. I really like their product(s) and understand that some compromises are necessary to stay "competitive" with the market. I think, in general, they do a good job of picking which compromises to make. I was sort of suprised that the literature/description for the prop said that additional balancing was not a necessity, as is usually stated with "as purchased" cast props.
Thanks again!
Bob

[Darin Jordan]

Darin,
Thanks for the response.

Good Luck! Here are the bushings I use: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc6ltsb

I have a .2505 reamer that seems to do the trick... If you end up with the hole a tad loose, you can use some good Loctite sleeve retainer to hold them in place. Use a minimum of one at each extreme end of the stub-shaft. I usually use three for full support, and lube them with a good oil lube...

[mannytx1]

hi all
Impulse 31 v2 is a good boat, just in
5S and propeller 42mm
4s propellers in 45mm
6s is a design error
Motor A3630- 1800Kv no torque for 47mm

Darin you have more experience than me
Why Proboat? Not publish all the technical characteristics of the motor and esc dynamite

Constant Current:
Burst Current:
Resistance: .
Battery: 2-6S Lipoly
BEC:
Motor Type:
Size:
Weight:
*Speed:
Timing
Max rpn

87229Thanks,
manny

[formulafastech]

I am undecided i have a Proboat Formula Fastech it runs great but im looking for something faster im thinking of the impulse or spartan my friend has the spartan he broke the shaft twice then upgraded the shaft it runs good now no problem. What do you think impulse or spartan?

[mannytx1]

87246
HI formulafastech

impulse 31 v2

Spartan is a toy

[formulafastech]

How is the impulse speed wise compared to the spartan

[formulafastech]

Any upgrades necessary for the impulse

[hobby_man]

87246
HI formulafastech

impulse 31 v2

Spartan is a toy

TOY? do u own a Spartan?

[mannytx1]

impulse 31 v2 5s = spartan 6s

impulse 31v2 50+mph in 5S only

[hobby_man]

search youtube for lonmn, I have some spartan video

[formulafastech]

Is there a need to upgrade the prop

[mannytx1]

yes 42mm in 5S Turnigy nano-tech 65-130c lipo
There are many propellers in 42 mm, take care com temperature

[Niky]

Hi Guys,
so it seems that the IM 31 V2 is not for 6s with stock upgrade?
Thanks,Niky.

[mannytx1]

impulse 31 v2 works in 6s, but is excellent in 5S (most favorable) prop x442
87277 6s maybe will last 6 months

[LOVE6S]

impulse 31 v2 works in 6s, but is excellent in 5S (most favorable) prop x442
87277 6s maybe will last 6 months Are the two new proboats ok to run on 6s? It seems to me if it had a problem with 6s it wouldnt last 6 months, I would think if if it didnt burn up after a fair anount of use, you should be good to go, when somethings not rite, it doesnt take 6 months to burn up. more like 6 min.

[Niky]

Hi Guys,
It seems to me that the new IM 31 will have the same pains on 6s as the Spartan had.
So I give up, I'll buy by OSE STORE the upgraded components for my Spartan and the case is closed.
Another "sacriface" of 350$ and all the pain will be gone (hope).
Thanks all,salute Niky.

[mannytx1]

I'm happy impulse 31 v2


8732587326
hi,Guys
I do not understand, Impulse 31 v2 works excellent in 5S, why put it in 6s

what is the obsession of 6s, 6s, 6s ,6S,:bash:...... Why?
6S is an illness

[LOVE6S]

what is the obsession of 6s, 6s, 6s ,6S,...... Why? 6S is an illness I dont understand why you would say that, 6s, is a standard, that many a FE BOAT is run on, 4s and 6s I think are you most common power sources people run, higher volts and less kv, draw less amps, and can be a great setup???

[mannytx1]

you love 6s

rc boat 4s or cr boat 6s
not 4s and 6s
I prefer 2200kv 4S
I prefer 1500kv 6S

[Niky]

Hi Guys,
yes, you can say that is my obsession, but now I got 6 peaces of 3s LiPos.
You have no idea how much it costs here in Switzerland. I spend almost a 1000$ for 3 couples of LiPo batt. and the charger.
There's sites you can order the LiPO for a double less price than here, but it's very likley that you'll never get it because of non comfortibility with swiss law.
I know the people who never recived their batt.
So i must use what i have, don't wanna spend anymore my money for the LiPo.

[mannytx1]

hi NIKy
apology
I live in U.S. texas and we have this problem, 6s runs fine with X442 5s and 4s x445 with no heating problems.
my temperature here is 90-100f
the speeds are different every day with the same settings, dependent on external factors.
I am a fan of speed, but I like to take care of my boats
Manny, TX:sinking-guy:

[mannytx1]

:flammes-09::flame42:
Not recommend this boat
877518775287754

propeller diameter reduced, back- cuts, balancing and detongueing , sharpening, 42x55 decreases to 40mm
connector 4mm Gold
cooling hose 1/4x.170 O.DxI.D
4S 39.2mph (runs 1 minutes)
5S 48.7mph (runs 1 minutes)
6S 57.5mph ( runs 1 minutes)
1)servo does not work
2)esc does not work for high volt cutoff and cutoff type ldle, (can not be programmed with programming card)
3)program card will not work
I sent back to Horizon
Horizon sent me new servo, esc and card

[david.garrison]

I desoldered my new version 2 also and had discolored/burned motor wires. And after reading Darin's comments from above, I am guessing that I did not have mine setup well either and I was running 6s. The difference is that Horizon Hobbies/Proboat sent me out another motor and esc. I like the boat, but it guess I need to learn more about setup, but 6s on the stock setup I am not sure about. I have since changed esc and motor and added the dual rudder option for extra cooling and changed to 5.5mm bullets running .187 flex without teflon. I haven't had a problem with the servo (yes the back screws come out at an angle, but it is not that bad). Yes the antenna was a pain ONCE. The hull is solid. I have had issues from day one with water in the boat. I still have not located the area yet.
I guess what I am looking for is a boat I can run wide open for 5 minutes without any problems. I am a newbie to RC boats. This is my first fiberglass hull. I am trying to learn the ins and outs of this sport. I guess I made the mistake that Proboat said it would run on 6s and it is a RTR boat.....so I put in 6s and ran it. I also had the top hatch crack on my first crash. Proboat sent another hatch. Horizon and Proboat have EXCELLENT customer service. All in all, This is a good boat. After some mods a great boat.

[Niky]

Hi david,
that what you say is materializing of my fears.
Today, there's no RTR boat that can run on 6s out of box. It's better to buy just a hull with drive hardware and put the ESC & motor depending which batteries you want to run.
I'm wondering why don't they make the boat a hundred, two hundred box more expencive, but also qalitativley better. Incredible!
Salute all, Niky.

[dana]

It's mind boggling how companies put out stuff they claim is 6s compatable, with all the available knowledge in FE boating. We all know 1800kv is too much for 6s, yet that's what they put in there. Who is making these choices? Fire them.

[dana]

Even more mind boggling, is proboat has a 1500kv motor that is good for 6s, and they put the 1800 in there lol....
I just don't get it.

[Niky]

Hi dana,
I agree with you, but I think it's also a question of monopolies.
They (producers) can do everything they want, In some way you're forced to buy an RTR boat from them.
Otherwise, you have to buy the peaces and build it by yourself like in a static modelng.
This things makes me screaming!
Salute all, Niky.

[mannytx1]

881088810988730Impulse 31 v2 Problems begin:help:
servo does not work
esc does not work for high volt cutoff and cutoff type ldle, (can not be programmed with programming card)
program card will not work
sent back to Horizon
incredible disservice
after 10 day, proboat not have parts for warranty, out of stock

[dana]

Disaster. Honestly, I like proboats hulls, but everything else on them are junk. I have never had proboat electronics that have worked correctly. Ok, the motors are ok too... But after having 3 proboats and nothing but issue after issue, I totally understand your frustration man

[Niky]

Hi Guys,
... and what about the Revolt 30 from Aquacraft?
I saw the videos, it's cornering with no problem at full throttle, incredible!
To put the 180A ESC+Leop.1600kv motor (upgraded parts for Spartan), on 6s I think it will run around 60 MPH.
I'm just thinking, but as idea it's not crasy at all.
Salute all, Niky.

[dana]

The problem is the revolt hull is gonna be tough to control at 60mph.its just not designed to do it. Don't get me wrong, you can get it to 60, but vs a good 60 mph hull, it doesn't stand a chance. The impulse hull would probably do better at 60 based on design.

[olwarbirds]

What I dont understand...is if PB knew (and they did) that there was an issue with running 6S in their new boats..why did they not change their ads....and let us know ..hey esc is 6S but the too little wired motor is only
4S...also the coupler on the new impulse is junk!!!...we sell these boats..I have both of them...I feel the pain others are feeling with buying the boats then buying lipos to do 6S, plus possibly a charger...I have a customer who has done all the above...what am I suppose to say to him...oooops some chinaman messed up, sorry about your luck !!!! The rep here on this forum has ignored my PM asking for some assistance, so guess its more hotair ...PB is trying to blow smoke at me, just like their motors smoke...Not gonna happen!!! Want to know why the USA hobby industry is in trouble...HH included...heres your sign...might as well buy direct from china ...same issues but with a lower $ price tag.....

[olwarbirds]

Hi Guys,
... and what about the Revolt 30 from Aquacraft?
I saw the videos, it's cornering with no problem at full throttle, incredible!
To put the 180A ESC+Leop.1600kv motor (upgraded parts for Spartan), on 6s I think it will run around 60 MPH.
I'm just thinking, but as idea it's not crasy at all.
Salute all, Niky.

Insane boats FE34 ....it can handle it....

[hobby_man]

I like my Revolt, I would not try to make it go 60, the hull is just too small

[mannytx1]

9135691357
Diferent settings, more stable
water temperature 50f
M445/ 4s / 75amp / 37.8mph / motor 72f / ESC 65.8f /battery 75.3f
SS / 5s / 62amp / 36.8mph / motor 68f / ESC 62.7f / battery 81f
42x55/ 5s / 57amp / 45.4mph / motor 73f / ESC 67.6f / battery 85f
M445/ 5s / 60amp/ 46.3mph / motor 77f / ESC 71f / battery 91f


Best compromise m445 en 5S

[mannytx1]

:angry::ThumbsDown01:Impulse 31 v2 50mph LOL......:tt2::Sinking:


9136991371

[Darin Jordan]

:angry::ThumbsDown01:Impulse 31 v2 50mph LOL......:tt2::Sinking:


913690

With ALL the thread information on this boat here on this particular forum, if you don't realize that you MUST reinforce the hatch to run this boat 15mph above it's RTR speeds and crash it there, then it's really on you. If you buy, bump up, and roll a Traxxas Stampede, and tear up the factory bodywork, is it still a POS???

I've gone to great lengths here to inform and SHOW you all what you need to do to ABUSE these boats... Whether you take the advice is up to you...

A simple addition of a layer of 6oz Fiberglass or Carbon cloth, laid up with some decent epoxy, on the underside of these hatches, is all that is required to prevent this.

Sorry that your RTR (low cost, fully assembled by 12-year-olds in China with average materials on a mass production basis) doesn't meet your lofty expectations. Perhaps one of these days, some company will offer a fully top-of-the-line RTR package for under $400.00. Until then, taking some steps to protect your investment might be well advised...

[Darin Jordan]

Now... that being said... I would also like to see these hatches built a little heavier, and have fed that info back to Pro Boat (last year...)... I'll try to make sure these things are better in the future, as I've been doing for 5+ years now... ;)

[Darin Jordan]

91371

THAT's the ticket!! :)

[mannytx1]

913759137991451

heavy fiberglass reinforcement tape inside, and epoxy both sides
Epoxy in the motor and servo support


Thanks Darin, I try to improve every day
I visit Seattle in February, the home of my children
I will repair
improved stability with ESC front
thanks manny

[Darin Jordan]

improved stability with ESC front
thanks manny

Manny, when you say "improve stability", can you describe?? I might have some tips that would help... I know a few tricks for this boat that I haven't shared... yet... ;)

[mannytx1]

9145291453
HI Darin

more weight to the front
batteries more near the CG
Possible correction torque roll
improves cooling system
the antenna of the other side (cosmetic)

Manny

[Darin Jordan]

9145291453
HI Darin

more weight to the front
batteries more near the CG
improves cooling system
the antenna of the other side (cosmetic)

Manny

I have found that getting the weight too far forward causes issues... I've had better luck with having the weight at the CG, and then using the tabs to get the nose down. Keeps the ride back at the keel where it belongs...

A tip to ALL of you... Replace the turn fins with some squared/rectangular fins... For starters, you may just take a set like the Revolt's and modify them to fit. They don't have to be very long... My fins for the P-Ltd setup are about 1/4" above the keel when viewed from the back. Make sure they mount RIGHT up against the transom, and extend down at just a slight angle. Make them about 1.25" or so in chord. You will be AMAZED at the stability you'll suddenly realize, especially in the corners...

I sent a pattern to Steven and I believe that OSE may be working to produce/supply them for you. Future offerings from Pro Boat will also have this design. It's a "design flaw" that I put into this boat, and the one real "mistake" I think I made when developing it. The straight fins make the boat much, MUCH more drivable in the turns, especially when it gets rough. Try it!!

[mannytx1]

thanks Darin
please send me some pictures

ESC put forward, backward batteries, together CG is nearer:biggrin:

center of gravity that% to over 45mph???????? 30% o 31% o 32%

manny:thumbup1:

[mannytx1]

91473
modify the original:roflol:
manny

[mannytx1]

91474
another modification homemade bushing
manny

[mannytx1]

hi, Darin
919279192891929
Impulse 31 v2 improved
The problem was the color. I change the color and no more problems LOL…..:lol:
-Battery 5S 4000 mAh 40C
-Propeller (Battery 5S, motor timing LOW)
42x55 45.4 mph
M445 46.3 mph
42x55 the tongue removed 47.2 mph (timing high 8% more speed and Amp)
M445 reduced to 42mm diameter 50.8 mph (timing high 8% more speed and Amp)
-Cooling hose 1/4x .170 O.DxI.D
-Connector 4mm Gold battery
-ESC front, more weight to the front, batteries more near the CG
-CG 30 % 8” ¾ or 9”
-Improves cooling system
-The antenna of de other side
-Reinforcement of the hull and hatch cover with fiberglass and resin
-Modify the original turn fins
- flex shaft (Miss Geico)
-Adjustable trim tabs
-Homemade bushing
-Hatch lock
-The stock 1800KV motor and ESC 80 Amp (only 5s)
-weight of the boat 4 ½ pounds without battery, with battery 5 ¼ pounds
Manny

[olwarbirds]

Tried a motor and esc swap....leopard 4082 2000kv 180amp esc....on 6S with stock prop ...at 2/3 throttle its running way to dry. Definately a lower KV for 6S is needed, my buddy never could open it up, it was uncontrollable...I dont think a prop change would help at all either....DJ

[mannytx1]

92046920479204892078

custom rc boat propellers (more speed)

[olwarbirds]

Manny, are you using a ball bearing to get your cup even ? ...Ive got so much to learn about props yet !!! ... DJ

[formulafastech]

Would a Prather 220 be a good prop for the impulse or a octura x440 fit I have these props already that's why I am asking I plan to use 4s 5s and maybe 6s if these props are no good can you tell me a good prop to use

[formulafastech]

Today while I was out driving my impulse I had no heat problems but other problems I was using 6s and it flipped the hatch came and the hatch seal came off to and I lost it cause it sank then the boat is supposed to be waterproof but my servo twitches now and my hatch has a crack I was mad when I lost the hatch seal and the servo twitches but other than that it ran fine but I was running in cool water too

[Hor2012]

Where r u in ny

[formulafastech]

yes but i run the boat in nj at my shore sucks i just got the boat and im not going down as much anymore cause my house got flooded also i want to get waverunners cause im turning 16 soon but we will see

[Filmgaffer]

Hey guy's... And Gal's.
I just signed up, as I have been reading your posts, but unable to view any pictures of what was being discussed. I have a 2012 Stiletto and was looking for a fast deep v. Impulse 31 v2 really caught my eye as it looks the best out of the current runners. The upgraded esc and dynamic motor was a plus from the original version. I bought one yesterday and got a chance to work on it today. Changed the connectors to deans ultra plug, gonna run 2 x 11.1v (3s) onkyo 5000 x 35c. Lubed the shaft, Centered the balance point 9". Installed that pain of an antena. ( gonna switch the grommet for a hard mount anodized antena receiver hop up). Need silicone just to have it stand up. Anyways.
Haven't run it yet. Maybe Thursday if not too windy. Look forward to seeing what the boat does with the batteries all the way up front.
Ps. The steering servo wood bracket was ok on this one but I caught the antena for the dx2e was broke out of box at store. Switched immediately. Hobby hobby. Great store. Mississauga Ontario Canada Eh...
Will post results when I can.
Thanks for the things to look for when buying this boat. It has helped.
Cheers.

[Hor2012]

Good luck with it. I love the impulse. It was my first boat. That thing is gonna be a blast. I still have it it just needs some love and care lol.

[Filmgaffer]

Does Anyone have any to say about the dual rudder kit available from horizon hobby for the Impulse 31 v2.
Worth it or not. And why?

[Darin Jordan]

Does Anyone have any to say about the dual rudder kit available from horizon hobby for the Impulse 31 v2.
Worth it or not. And why?

I wouldn't, unless you are putting in a substantially more powerful power system... It corners great, but does double the rudder drag.

[iop65]

Bought one a few weeks ago

i use 5 s 4000 mah 40c ( i think 6s is to much for a 1800kv motor,just my opinion)

changed the prop to a graupner 40 mm 1.4 p
changed the esc to a 120a seaking ( stock one is very heavy)
still have to change the 4 mm lipo connectors to 5.5 mm because that's the only thing that is getting hot ( besides the lipo's)

so far : i like it , worth the money

[Filmgaffer]

Well I ran my new impulse 31 v2 today. Put 6s in and gave her a few rips. Bouncing like crazy out of the box basically. Brought it in and lifted the trim tabs 1/8" from bottom of hull as noted by another member and bent them down even with bottom of hull. Lowered drive shaft prop by 1/8th" and its glued to the water. 6s is fast for a short 15 seconds at a time but 4s is fun all day long.

[mannytx1]

9804898049:tiphat:
Can someone explain why? Impulse31 v2, is faster with the engine PRB 3310 A3630-1500kv (Old Miss GEICO), which, A3630-1800KV DYNM 3830. com The Same settings
Manny

[Filmgaffer]

Could be the Dynamite 80amp ESC that is in the new Impulse31. The motor is the Dynamite 1800kv.
By the way. 3rd run out on 6s I twisted the flex shaft in half. Make sure you have spares before you go anywhere.

[mannytx1]

hi, filmgaffer
I use flex shaft miss geico
I run only 5s (46-49mph) good speed for me and for my boat :sinking-guy:
manny

[Filmgaffer]

Sorry your saying the 1500kv motor is faster than the 1800kv?

[Filmgaffer]

I wouldn't, unless you are putting in a substantially more powerful power system... It corners great, but does double the rudder drag.
Now that I have it dialed in It corners great just as it is.

[mannytx1]

YES, 1500kv motor is faster than the 1800kv (no quality dynm motor, or no torque)

[Filmgaffer]

It could be a difference in the winding. 18 turn say as opposed to 22 turns on the 1800. Just a thought. 18 and 22 are just as an example not actual specs. Hard to find specs.

[Filmgaffer]

Specs from horizon say 1000-1999kv. Wow.

[mannytx1]

Horizon for something hiding the specifications of all products (Chinese toys):confused1:

[tlandauer]

YES, 1500kv motor is faster than the 1800kv (no quality dynm motor, or no torque)

Interesting observation:
I have both the 1500kv ( Formula FASTech / MG V1) and the 1800kv ( Not the Dynamite brand, but the PB brand), I can tell you that with the same prop and same set of batteries the 1800kv IS FASTER. That's the reason I put the 1800kv in my FASTech. I have also a Dynamite 1800kv in my Miss Elam Hydro, but I did not do any comparison and by the feel of it, the motor was healthy. Like to know more about how you come to this conclusion.

[mannytx1]

May be the propeller size, use 45 mm, 5s battery

[Darin Jordan]

YES, 1500kv motor is faster than the 1800kv (no quality dynm motor, or no torque)

I do not find this to be fact... Given the same prop, the 1800KV motor would be faster (Yes, the Dynamite brand motor)...

But, again, what do I know...

[Darin Jordan]

I do not find this to be fact... Given the same prop, the 1800KV motor would be faster (Yes, the Dynamite brand motor)...

But, again, what do I know...

Now... that being said... the 1500KV motor CAN go as fast, but it takes more pitch to do it...

[olwarbirds]

We run the 1800KV Dynamite with a 180amp esc on 6S and it is definately faster than the 1500KV on the same Prop...Like Darin stated "pitching up the prop" might get the 1500KV close to what the 1800KV does....might even give us less amperage draw...We like the dynamite 1800KV, its been holding up fairly well for us, considering running 6S and the wire impedance issues... DJ

[mannytx1]

project impulse31 v29893398934989359893698937
Is working better than the original design, I invite you to try:thumbup1:

[mannytx1]

best of Proboat and AquaCraft :olleyes:
993689936999370

[mannytx1]

The hull revolt30 and impulse31 (29 ") are almost equal, the revolt is not separated from the water, is more stable
I try revolt30, with electronics impulse31 v2 (5s and 6s) and it's amazing

Hi, Mike grimracer zaborowski
I think there are serious problems with the design of the rudder, the water pickup hole is very high, need 1 inch below ( the water pickup hole should be no less than one inch below the keel) very small rudder, a minimum recommended length is 1 times the diameter of its support below Lx 15% 30”x15% = 4,5” minimum. (REVOLT 30 ONLY 4")
thank you very much

Manny

[mannytx1]

Texan Rocket. 6s
100105
Hull and hardware Revolt 30 (improved water cooling and hose ¼ x .170 O.D x I.D)
ESC Dynamite (DYNM3820) Marine 80-amp (brushless water-cooled w/reverse)
Motor Dynamite (DYNM3830) A3630-1800kv, 6-pole, water-cooled marine motor
Connector 5,5mm
Propeller. Octura x442--- X440/3.
Battery 6s +40C
Speed: Fast Electric Adict!
manny

[crossman]

Taking my new impulse v2 our next weekend for the first run and im new to boats, does the shaft come pre greased or do i need to out of the box. would white lithium grease work. thanks

[BHChieftain]

You should grease before every day's run (I grease every 4-5 runs), and after running for the day remove and clean the flex and let everything dry.


Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk 2

[alexchen86]

yea blame it on china, I know all about China, im in the MFG. trade
2. the rear servo screws are under the deck , tough to get an angled screw driver into them.
3. a compression collet
could not run it wide open so you math is off boat is factory set a 80% top end, with the bounce and the ESC programming card not working. IF it did run wide open it would have burned up the motor.
Heat gun was at the dock with me and I was trying to get the boat set up when it died on the lake. Tough to do in 5 minutes

pro boat, not a word from them yet. Horizon says warranty is time of sale!

I have a Traxxas Spartan, UL-1, Revolt 30, they all ran out of the box, for a very long time!


My crap PB Impulse 31 V2 came just like yours servo backwards, rudder linkage was not even attached. Both wood servo holders were bit fastened.

There were two nicks on the hull cosmetic but still unacceptable for $400!

I have a Revolt 30 FE as my first oat and truly RTR no leaks of course double cheeked and Loctite all screws with blue removable and off she went. Just hate the cockpit is taped on makes it look really ghetto.

Traxxas I owned every surface vehicle they've had since the early 90s and all heavily modded...from chassis, arms, titanium links, cvd's, brushless power, lipos always, never ran the stock electronics and I have sold every single one. Traxxas I only trust on land not air and not water.

Seeing too many Spartan hulls snap at high speed abrupt maneuvers because the ABS plastic could not withstand the 6s power and the length of the craft. Or escs burning up and the boat in fire with dual 3s packs toasted.....

UL-1 perfect price, very nimble, great beginner boat....downside is the water has to be glass smooth as with any drag boat like that. That's why I never liked catamarans or tunnel hull designs...throw a 3-4s in there with a plastic hull once you're out on open water anything can happen at those speeds!

[Darin Jordan]

My crap PB Impulse 31 V2 came just like yours servo backwards, rudder linkage was not even attached. Both wood servo holders were bit fastened.

There were two nicks on the hull cosmetic but still unacceptable for $400!



Most people who are unhappy with a purchase return it and get a refund or a replacement.

I'm pretty certain that, in runs of 500+ units, a few are going to slip through that have issues, especially from China.