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View Full Version : Minimono Upgrade Drive Shaft DIY



yoffer
05-30-2012, 10:26 PM
Ok guys, i know everyone has been having the wire drive failure just like i have. I love the boat, but after only 4 runs in a month because ive snapped one and lost the spare to the depths because of the crappy set screw coupler that comes stock with the minimono i got tired of it. So i decided to do a little research online and pieced together my own custom flex drive wire system. So lets jump on in.

Listed are the parts you will have to order, yours may vary but this is what i used for my system.

Octura .098 Flex Drive Wire, assembled.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc098L-24c

Octura Coupler
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-ocfhe18098

K & S Stuffing Tube part# 129
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-ks-brass-tb&cat=70

*OPTIONAL*
Octura Purple Plastic y531 Prop
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-y531

First we are going to start off by removing all the old drive components, you will have to remove the battery/servo tray first, which i used a small flathead screwdriver and pried up on the corners until i was able to use my fingers to pop it out. It is held in by glue. This is what you should see after that is done. (i already installed the octura coupler in this picture)

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r131/yoffer2490/IMAG0360.jpg

Next you will have to remove the stock stuffing tube to be able to fit the larger one on. I did this by using a set of pliers and twisting it back and forth until the glue released it and i pulled it out the back. You will then have to drill out the tube holder and the rear of the boat larger to accomodate the larger stuffing tube. Cut your new stuffing tube to length, i used a dremel for this process, do the same for your flex cable, make sure you leave extra room, its easy to cut too much. Hunker the tube down with some glue, later test it in the tub to make sure its water tight. This is what it will look like.

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r131/yoffer2490/IMAG0361.jpg

Next on the list is to align it properly to the motor coupler so that it reduces as much friction and premature ware on the drive line. I did this by using the end of a drill bit and pulling lightly over and over again in small incriments to make sure i didnt kink it or bend it too much, i really like the way this boat it setup, i only had one bend that i had to make. When your done, it should like this.

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r131/yoffer2490/IMAG0362.jpg

Now go ahead and assemble the rest of system and do a test run on the stand to make sure everything is proper aligned and nothing is catching before you glue back down the battery/servo tray into place. I should mention that the drive shaft prop that came with the system was too small and had a good amount of play in the stuffing tube, i remedied this by cutting a small piece of teflon off what i had left over and slid it over the drive shaft prop with made it fit snuggly into the tube with very minimal resistance, if any at all.
Here it is assembled.

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r131/yoffer2490/IMAG0365.jpg

And a shot of the new prop with the bullet nut provided in the ose flex cable system.

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r131/yoffer2490/IMAG0364.jpg

Heres a shot of my workstation and my new MC!

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r131/yoffer2490/IMAG0366.jpg

First impressions.
I love it. I ran one pack and it was trouble free. The boat sounded quieter, the stock wire drive system seemed to cause a lot of vibration and noise, this new system seems to tone that vibration down a lot. I love the way it sounds, very very little resistance when turning the prop/flex cable by hand. Everything was water tight, had maybe a drop or two in the hull after a 7 minute run. Coupled together with the new prop, this setup seems very good and i plan on running it trouble free for a while. If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions, please by all means share.

ryin
06-01-2012, 10:40 AM
I am going to have to give this a try. The only problem I have right now is the stupid set screw coupling always loosens up. I had a nice coupling for my mini rio that helped the shaft from tearing apart, but coupling fits a 2.5mm motor shaft dia. not the 3mm shaft dia. on the mini mono. did you notice slower speeds at all due to the thicker shaft causing more load on the motor?

yoffer
06-02-2012, 09:11 PM
No i didnt notice any slower speeds, but quite the opposite lol
I did upgrade the prop and its visually a lot larger than the stock prop, and i did notice higher motor and esc temps. I plan on throwing a watercooler 35a seaking esc in and looking to larger cooling lines to take the temps back down. I think the prop is heating up the motor and esc more than anything.

Duke
06-16-2012, 09:55 PM
Thanks for posting this yoffer , i ran my minimono today for the first time and guess what happened ? yep , down to the bottom went my prop and shaft on the second pack . that was enough to hook me on this little gem though .

yoffer
06-16-2012, 10:01 PM
Yeah ive had problems with the stock drive system from day one. But i ran over 10 packs with this upgraded system now and not one issue. I do notice more torque lean on full throttle, might be because of the heavier collet on the motor, or maybe the bigger prop, not too sure. But it beats having to worry about the prop shaft falling out.

RAMROD5
06-17-2012, 08:54 PM
Thanks for posting this yoffer , i ran my minimono today for the first time and guess what happened ? yep , down to the bottom went my prop and shaft on the second pack . that was enough to hook me on this little gem though . you did better than me! my first run with my minimono ended up with the esc exploding, the whole interior smoke damaged, motor mount burnt, and plastic above esc warped....not happy

Duke
06-24-2012, 12:09 AM
Yoffer , i got all my stuff today to fix my mini , i think they put a little extra glue on my battery tray lol.

yoffer
06-24-2012, 01:32 AM
Yoffer , i got all my stuff today to fix my mini , i think they put a little extra glue on my battery tray lol.
All i did was pry it up starting at the corner with a flathead and i was able to pull it out. Let me know how it turns out.

alvinm
07-12-2012, 08:41 AM
I think I might go this route even though this second stock wire is holding up after a few runs. Did you take a measurement of how far you went outside the back of the hull with the brass tubing?

yoffer
07-12-2012, 09:11 AM
I took a rough estimate. It's about the same length as the stock tube, maybe just one or two mm's longer.

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boogityman
08-29-2012, 10:08 AM
Hey Yoffer,

Great idea for this drive upgrade. I have all the parts in hand and even before installing them I can tell its going to be a lot more reliable than the stock drive setup. Question for you--what did you use to glue the stuffing tube back down? Just some epoxy? Also when you cut the cable drive to length do you have to solder the cut end to keep it from unwinding? I read something like that once I think...

I also managed to pop out the motor mount by accident while prying up the servo/battery tray :glare: Was using a putty knife to get under the tray without cracking it and when it finally gave I hammered the motor mount with my hand...whoops. I can either glue that back down or I also have a 3500kV Turnigy outrunner I got from HK months ago and never used that I may just pop in there with a 50A ESC just because its out already...Of course would also love to be able to cram the Turnigy 2200mAh battery I have in there for some longer runtimes too...but that may be dreaming this hull is tiny!

gyrotron
08-29-2012, 06:43 PM
No i didnt notice any slower speeds, but quite the opposite lol
I did upgrade the prop and its visually a lot larger than the stock prop, and i did notice higher motor and esc temps. I plan on throwing a watercooler 35a seaking esc in and looking to larger cooling lines to take the temps back down. I think the prop is heating up the motor and esc more than anything.
Hi Yoffer,

Can you post a picture of the final mod so we can see the interior of the hull with everything in minus the battery? Thx.

yoffer
08-29-2012, 07:50 PM
This is the best I have.


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gyrotron
08-29-2012, 08:04 PM
This is the best I have.


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Yes I just wanted to see how everything end up inside the hull once you had finished the mod. Thx.

yoffer
08-29-2012, 08:53 PM
No problem, let me know if you have anymore questions. As far as cutting the flex shaft goes, I used a dremel with a cutting circle on it. I didn't solder the end that I cut as I didn't feel the need to but you could if you wanted to.

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gyrotron
08-29-2012, 09:05 PM
No problem, let me know if you have anymore questions. As far as cutting the flex shaft goes, I used a dremel with a cutting circle on it. I didn't solder the end that I cut as I didn't feel the need to but you could if you wanted to.

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What is the overall length of the flex shaft?

yoffer
08-29-2012, 10:03 PM
I'm not sure, I just measured what needed from the stock wire drive and then I cut 2 inches more so I test fit it and from there I cut small sections off until it fit perfectly

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Sobie2
09-25-2012, 06:50 PM
I am upgrading my minimono with the .098 shaft, prop, and either the seaking 35a or 60a esc. The 60a esc can run 4s battery if I can find one that fits. Either esc and prop and driveshaft is $100. I am very new to the lipo thing. So I am looking for suggestions of an upgraded motor. Can the stocker run 4s? Or is there a drop in motor that is better than the stock one for 3s?

I am interested in really spending less than $60 on a motor.

Thx,
Sobie2

boogityman
09-26-2012, 09:47 AM
I'm fairly new to this game as well but from my experience working with the Mini Rio there's a fine line between fast & fun and fast & constantly flipping, so I would watch out with that combination. That said, I think you will have difficulty finding a 4s that fits... at least one that'll give you decent run times anyways. I cram a bigger 3s in there to be able to keep it out there longer so its a tradeoff. I have still yet to rebuild mine with this shaft upgrade but am considering using a 3200kv outrunner I have laying around, but that would give me 35k rpm unloaded so its on the higher end of things. If you managed to cram a 4s in there its my understanding that you wouldn't want to put much more than a 2200kv motor on there.

Anyways just my 2 cents

USMC247365
09-27-2012, 09:13 PM
All, new to the boating world, last time I played with toys it was in the 80's. I have been doing alot of getting shot at and barely made it back home. I picked up RC's as a way of decompressing and it worked, but it is in depth to say the least. I bought the minimono and it striped the coupler and sucked as bad as you all said it did. I tried this drive upgrade and not only did it haul %ss but it is going to be my pet project. I also got my hands on a Spartan, I love the fact that you guys have answers for every situation, I am happy to be home, God Bless the US and RC I am obsessed. Please let me know tha best battery setup for the Spartan....:tiphat:

USMC247365
09-27-2012, 09:21 PM
I took advice and spent a little on upgrade ESc's and put the Lipo power behind it. I truely think that you have to listen to the posts, modify yours, and get some.... As I am a Combat Water Survival instructor I do swim after my flips... and I caught 2 pompanos last night and got diner and a movie..... You guys are AWESOME... Thankx again

Mr Camil
10-07-2012, 10:23 AM
Thinking about doing this but completely new to rc boats. What glue would you guys recommend?

MiniMorris
01-01-2013, 02:49 PM
How did you drill out the tube holder? It seems there's no way to get a drill bit in there? Also, did you use just regular epoxy to secure the new tube? Thanks:thumbup:

MAMBA2200
01-01-2013, 03:02 PM
Grab it with pliers and twist it back and forth it will break loose

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MiniMorris
01-01-2013, 04:14 PM
Grab it with pliers and twist it back and forth it will break loose

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So you break out the tube holder, drill it, then glue it back in? What glue should I use?

tlandauer
01-01-2013, 06:13 PM
MiniMoris,
Since you are getting excellent advice already, I am not trying to confuse the way you want to fix it, but in your other thread, you said the motor is not center/straight when run at low RPM, you mentioned vibration. To me it seems that there can be two issues, one is mis-alignment, the other is the motor is damaged, the shaft is not straight.
If the motor is good, you should be able to tell if it is aligned with the stuffing tube , the reason I ask is that you only mentioned about this observation when the motor is running.
IMO, a bit of mis-alignment would not cause vibration where as if the motor shaft is damaged/bent would cause some vibration. Granted it is unusual for a shaft to be "bent of out of shape" so to speak, may be that the motor wasn't assembled right to begin with. You also mensioned Not centered: are you saying the shaft doesn't look centered in relationship to the stuffing tube or it just doesn't look centered on the motor by itself?
I would examine all possible causes before doing surgery on the stuffing tube, this is just my opinion if I were faced with this problem, in no way am I putting other's advice down, this being the New Year, last thing I want is misunderstanding.
Cheers!

tlandauer
01-01-2013, 06:25 PM
How is your coupler? is it machined correctly? These aluminum things are cheaply made, if itself is out of round, then you don't stand a chance.

MiniMorris
01-01-2013, 06:41 PM
MiniMoris,
Since you are getting excellent advice already, I am not trying to confuse the way you want to fix it, but in your other thread, you said the motor is not center/straight when run at low RPM, you mentioned vibration. To me it seems that there can be two issues, one is mis-alignment, the other is the motor is damaged, the shaft is not straight.
If the motor is good, you should be able to tell if it is aligned with the stuffing tube , the reason I ask is that you only mentioned about this observation when the motor is running.
IMO, a bit of mis-alignment would not cause vibration where as if the motor shaft is damaged/bent would cause some vibration. Granted it is unusual for a shaft to be "bent of out of shape" so to speak, may be that the motor wasn't assembled right to begin with. You also mensioned Not centered: are you saying the shaft doesn't look centered in relationship to the stuffing tube or it just doesn't look centered on the motor by itself?
I would examine all possible causes before doing surgery on the stuffing tube, this is just my opinion if I were faced with this problem, in no way am I putting other's advice down, this being the New Year, last thing I want is misunderstanding.
Cheers!

Well, to clarify the motor shaft is straight it's when I put the coupler on motor, if you look at the end of the coupler where the prop shaft attaches you can tell, at low rpm, the coupler isn't on straight be because if you hold a nail against it, the nail will vibrate and bounce, where as it is smooth on the motor shaft side of the coupler. It looks as the motor shaft is straight inline with the stuffing tube. Also, the stuffing tube surgery is so I could use a flex shaft and not have to lose $20 in parts (a wire shaft, prop, prop nut.) everytime a grub screw backs out...... Which is every time it gets put in the water for me.

MAMBA2200
01-01-2013, 06:41 PM
those stock couplers are made out of a very soft metal the set screws are junk i tossed mine never used it if you want it i will send it to you

MiniMorris
01-01-2013, 06:43 PM
How is your coupler? is it machined correctly? These aluminum things are cheaply made, if itself is out of round, then you don't stand a chance.

Umm ... Well ima newb to the whole boat thing so I'm not sure, it looks alright?

MiniMorris
01-01-2013, 06:47 PM
those stock couplers are made out of a very soft metal the set screws are junk i tossed mine never used it if you want it i will send it to you

Thanks for the offer, I will probably do a flex shaft, but if I don't, I'll pm you.

tlandauer
01-01-2013, 06:57 PM
I got it, you want to up grade. I totally agree with MAMBA2200 that the soft metal is very weak, I have stripped many set screws. In a nut shell, I hate couplers! They pinch the cable and with a thin wire you have to make sure the set screws from opposite sides have to be set equally . Collets are the way for me. And I can see why you want to up grade to a flex cable.
Good luck!

MiniMorris
01-01-2013, 07:05 PM
I'm still confused on how to replace the stuffing tube. How do you drill out the holders? When you take out the old tube, did the tube holder break from the boat or the s. tube? How do you make the hole bigger for the new tube?

tlandauer
01-01-2013, 07:26 PM
I can't answer you intelligently since I don't have the boat, from AQ's pic. I see that there is a battery platfom on top of the holder. But I do know that when people replacing the tube, assuming that the holder is already no longer holding the tube, they heat the s. tube with a soldering iron until the epoxy at the transom exit hole starts to get soft. It is a tricky operation, too much heat you risk to damage the hull.
Also, the boat you have I assume is plastic? I have a Rio which is plastic and AQ ueses a white glue to secure the s.tube. Epoxy is not used in this case.
As far as the holder is concerned, in my case it was a wooden ( Pursuit) trangle holder with a hole in the middle for the s. tube, I used Dremal with a grinding disc to cut the top open, so the only issue I had to contend with was the epoxy at the transom exit hole.
Sorry, I am no help at all, just want to tell you the heating process.

MAMBA2200
01-01-2013, 07:38 PM
It will come loose from the boat the holders will stay in place just grab and twist little at a time and it will come loose take a flat screwdriver and slowly remove the plate that covers the tube and then remove the tube

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MiniMorris
01-01-2013, 07:52 PM
So with the electronics tray removed, I heat the tube, twist the stock stuffing tube until it comes loose, Correct?? Then how do you drill the out the wood tube holder between motor mount and the exit hole of the stuffing tube?

MAMBA2200
01-01-2013, 08:16 PM
You dont have to heat it just twist it and i used a body reamer to make the holes larger but u need it to fit tight goin back in so little ream then test fit dont take to much but if u do just fill with epoxy to seal it back

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tlandauer
01-01-2013, 08:22 PM
It will come loose from the boat the holders will stay in place just grab and twist little at a time and it will come loose take a flat screwdriver and slowly remove the plate that covers the tube and then remove the tube

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+1 on this method.
Sorry if I did cause confusion, I was relating to the removal of s. tube from a FG Hull with epoxy, it is different from the boat you are working on. Please disregard the "heating process".
Just as I thought, I caused more harm than good! :ohmy:

MiniMorris
01-01-2013, 08:32 PM
You dont have to heat it just twist it and i used a body reamer to make the holes larger but u need it to fit tight goin back in so little ream then test fit dont take to much but if u do just fill with epoxy to seal it back

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Alrighty that makes total sense! THANK YOU!

MAMBA2200
01-01-2013, 08:34 PM
Anytime

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MiniMorris
01-01-2013, 08:50 PM
Well, I thought I was done with my N00by questions but I guess not.. :mellow: I was wondering when you switch to the octura prop listed, do you have to switch escs to keep it cool? Im planning to make a motor cooler like the one in the pic, but worried about the esc temps. Is there any way to stick to the stock esc?

91101

91102

MAMBA2200
01-01-2013, 09:22 PM
You dont have to change the prop but if you do you can put a seaking 35a for really cheap thats what i did

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MiniMorris
01-01-2013, 10:41 PM
You dont have to change the prop but if you do you can put a seaking 35a for really cheap thats what i did

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To save... um... $8.. Would a 25a seaking work just fine too? Does the new prop improve performance by that much? I feel if im going to upgrade the esc, I should put on an even bigger prop, just to take advantage of the extra $8 I spent.

MAMBA2200
01-02-2013, 08:29 AM
Go with the 35a

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MiniMorris
01-02-2013, 09:03 PM
Ok.

MAMBA2200
01-02-2013, 10:09 PM
I will send you one pm me your address

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MiniMorris
01-04-2013, 03:03 AM
I'm going to post pics of the whole project. If anybody wants a particular shot, LMK (even though everybody on this thread has already done it.)

MiniMorris
01-08-2013, 07:12 PM
I have some slop with the prop. Like the prop nut is on a silver shaft that wiggles in the stuffing tube is this normal.?

MiniMorris
01-08-2013, 07:18 PM
91485
Like this gap.

MAMBA2200
01-08-2013, 08:35 PM
I used a smaller brass tube for a bushing mine was the same way till i got one size smaller and made the bushing

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MiniMorris
01-08-2013, 08:57 PM
Well I just tested my boat and the pointed end prop nut was vibrating because the last inch of the flex shaft is loose, because I'm using the Teflon tube stretched over that part.

Sound right?

MiniMorris
01-08-2013, 09:02 PM
What is the outside diameter of the bushing exactly. And does your prop move at all when running dry and is it bad if it moves?

MiniMorris
01-12-2013, 10:36 PM
Is it bad if the prop wobbles. What damage can it cause

tlandauer
01-13-2013, 05:13 AM
Accelerated wear and tear. Particularly on bigger and more powerful boats. Usually it is the other way around: out of balanced prop and/or drive train components enlarging the bushing in the stinger or strut, the looseness in turn allows more wobbles, and so on... I had a Proboat Fast Tech that had one of those steel prop from PB, it was heavy and out of balance, took only two runs to wear out the bushing, luckily I caught it before it could do more damage. It puts stress on the bracket and the transom.
Can you correct that? How bad is it? The picture doesn't tell the whole story, does the vibration get worse as you speed up the motor. Water should dampen the wobble somewhat, plastic prop is light and doesn't have that much mass as with steel prop.

MiniMorris
01-13-2013, 08:07 PM
Accelerated wear and tear. Particularly on bigger and more powerful boats. Usually it is the other way around: out of balanced prop and/or drive train components enlarging the bushing in the stinger or strut, the looseness in turn allows more wobbles, and so on... I had a Proboat Fast Tech that had one of those steel prop from PB, it was heavy and out of balance, took only two runs to wear out the bushing, luckily I caught it before it could do more damage. It puts stress on the bracket and the transom.
Can you correct that? How bad is it? The picture doesn't tell the whole story, does the vibration get worse as you speed up the motor. Water should dampen the wobble somewhat, plastic prop is light and doesn't have that much mass as with steel prop.

Thank you for replying. I stretched the Teflon coating over the last inch or so where the the prop shaft leaves the stuffing tube. The tip of the prop nut moves 1/16" to 1/8" side to side. It doesn't seem to bad I will see I if it has more side to side play when it's moving or if get worse the faster I go.

MiniMorris
01-19-2013, 11:07 AM
It moves side to side a little more at speed. Can I still run it?

czegard
01-28-2013, 12:50 PM
I had the same problem with vibration of the shaft with my Minimono. I solved it with a smaller brass tube of 5/31 x inside the 3/16 x 0.014 (just half and inch at the end). Now I have cero vibration. Use Loctite 603.
My specs are the following and I donīt have temp problems:
stock motor + octura .098 flex wire + Octura collet + 3/16 K&S tube + Teflon + Balanced Octura prop 432+seaking 35amp+aluminum rudder (shorter)+ larger stabilizer +sharpened turn fins + prop nut

Cheers


Well I just tested my boat and the pointed end prop nut was vibrating because the last inch of the flex shaft is loose, because I'm using the Teflon tube stretched over that part.

Sound right?

MiniMorris
02-09-2013, 02:10 PM
I had the same problem with vibration of the shaft with my Minimono. I solved it with a smaller brass tube of 5/31 x inside the 3/16 x 0.014 (just half and inch at the end). Now I have cero vibration. Use Loctite 603.
My specs are the following and I don´t have temp problems:
stock motor + octura .098 flex wire + Octura collet + 3/16 K&S tube + Teflon + Balanced Octura prop 432+seaking 35amp+aluminum rudder (shorter)+ larger stabilizer +sharpened turn fins + prop nut

Cheers

I used a piece of 5/32 x .014. Is this right because I still have slop between prop shaft and inside of stuffing tube

czegard
02-09-2013, 07:20 PM
I used a piece of 5/32 x .014. Is this right because I still have slop between prop shaft and inside of stuffing tube

Are you using the Octura 0.098 flex wire?

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MiniMorris
02-09-2013, 09:36 PM
Yes, the tip moves about 1/16 to 1/8 side-side/up-down

MiniMorris
03-31-2013, 11:04 PM
Well I got it working now. Thanks for all your help!

larryrose11
04-01-2013, 11:30 AM
On motors and props,
I have a Mini Rio, which is more sensitive to flipping than Minimono. I have upgraded my driveline from stock to the 0.098 flex shaft, and I use a strut too.
I have noticed that what applies to the larger boats does not translate well on these small boats.
On the larger boats, people on this forum use lower KV motors, higher voltages, and much larger props. That works fine, but for a given hull size, there is a limit on prop diameter to maintain good stability. Too large a prop, 36mm, or so, and it flips pretty easy. I have found mine runs much more stable with a smaller 30 mm prop. I use much higher KV motors to get the RPM and speed up and control the load, and hence the temps, with the prop. I run a 4400kv motor with a Seaking 35A esc on 3s lipo, near redline for the motor. She is quite fast. (I don’t have any vids) I just started out with a small, low pitch prop, and worked my way up to an x430

czegard
04-01-2013, 12:29 PM
You are running a 4400kv motor and Seaking 35amp in the Mini Mono or Mini Rio?

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larryrose11
04-01-2013, 10:09 PM
czegard
It is a heavily re-enforced and mod Rio. The dimensions are not much different than a minimono now.

czegard
04-01-2013, 10:16 PM
I am running 3600kv and a seaking 60amp, 3S, and it is a lot of juice for the Minimono.
Some pics and/or video of your super Mini Rio would be great!

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larryrose11
04-03-2013, 02:58 PM
Cgard
I have a thread, but im really behind in updating it. Ill do more on it tonight.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?39775-Mini-Rio-Rebuild&p=493150#post493150\

Conner
05-14-2013, 06:14 PM
First off from a new member thank you for this great post it has helped a ton. I received my parts today and already had the guts removed from a recent upgrade of the esc (seeking35A) and a new aliminum 1.5" rudder. My question is what is used to secure the shaft in place? I removed what looked and felt like hotglue from the old shaft but was wondering if I should use epoxy for a more permanent solution?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Conner

MAMBA2200
05-14-2013, 06:17 PM
If your referring to the stuffing tube use epoxy

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Conner
05-14-2013, 06:28 PM
Yeah the stuffing tube sorry. Thanks.

C